# Pimp a Mhalkonig W1BN (Pope Sticker) Grinder- grandfather to the EK43



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

This grinder has made a brief appearance on the forum before as black beauty, but now its due for a good old fashioned pimping back to original condition.

In the original thread it took several guess's for someone to nail it as there is so little information out there about these apart from the fact that under the paint its gold and has a Mhalkonig sticker on it.

As its so rare and makes fleeting appearances on coffee forums (mostly in Germany) it deserves a proper detailed write up

Please be assured that no popes will be hurt or upset as part of this thread.

a quick look at condition


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## fatboyslim (Sep 29, 2011)

What size are the burrs?


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> This grinder has made a brief appearance on the forum before as black beauty, but now its due for a good old fashioned pimping back to original condition.
> 
> In the original thread it took several guess's for someone to nail it as there is so little information out there about these apart from the fact that under the paint its gold and has a Mhalkonig sticker on it.
> 
> ...


Ah yes another pimp!! Christmas has come early


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

fatboyslim said:


> What size are the burrs?


impossible size 2 hole 52mm









Sooo I email Mhalkonig in Germany about the burrs and they forward my email to La Spazial in the Uk to help me with my enquiry, but no joy

The plot thickens because the original burrs (which match those found in other W1BN's) are -

1 composed of two different designs -

2 sand cast (and badly the centre hole is an ellipse)

3 the only part of the burrs that has ever been sharpened is the outside flat edge. (the rest still shows its sand casting texture)

4 This grinder spins at 2880 rpm !

5 The body and the carrier will both actually fit 54mm burrs (why recess the grinder body to take 54mm then fit 52mm?)

Where does this leave us - well the plan at the moment is to sharpen the original burrs and refit them, then go the 54mm three hole route if needed


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Some history of Mhalkonig is needed at this point with the aid of Kaffi Netz forum in Germany (my apologies for the spelling Hasi)

Ok thi W1BN is often also refered to as the Mhalkonig 'Stawert' W1BN - the Stawert bit comes from a grinder manufacturer called -

*Stawert Mühlenbau*

If you google that name up comes a lot of pictures of grinders that carry Stawert or Mhalkonig branding - certainly Stawert had been making grinders since 1926 and working closely with Mhalkonig, so much so that they merged the two companies in 2005

So is the W1BN actually a Stawert, well no as it always carried the Mhalkonig stickers and brand - was it actually made by Mhalkonig, ive no idea, possibly it was made by Stawart and sold under the brand Mhalkonig, im guessing


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

The Pope bit - Ok so the early stickers and logo carried by the W1BN look like this









apparently the Pope aka the catholic Church at the time felt that the Mhalkonig logo looked much too similar to a brand that they were using at the time, I like to think that he sent an albino killer priest round like a bad Dan Brown novel but I doubt it, anyway the result was that Mhalkonig changed their logo to the one in use today

Less pope like?















"mehh it is acceptable"

this leaves me with a problem of having to sort out graphics a get some logos printed onto transfer paper - any bored graphics artists out there?


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Yea I believe someone at Kaffee Netz () pointed out that Stawert built them based on a contract with Mahlkönig... apparently they've manufactured quite a few but very little survived.

Those burrs are really stupid to deal with nowadays. Also at Kaffee Netz I've read that 54mm would only fit when widening the recess in the body.

That leads me to ask... how much for a CNCed pair?


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> The Pope bit - Ok so the early stickers and logo carried by the W1BN look like this
> 
> View attachment 37991
> 
> ...


Not bored, but do you need it urgently?

(btw, can't see the image in question, TT shows a broken link icon)


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Not bored, but do you need it urgently?
> 
> (btw, can't see the image in question, TT shows a broken link icon)


Its not urgent - ive a long way to go yet









but I don't have a great skill set around graphics, any help would be appreciated


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Its not urgent - ive a long way to go yet
> 
> View attachment 37993
> 
> ...


No problem 

I can vectorise that for you. Usually print guys prefer 1:1 scale (even though it wouldn't make a diff), so could you supply the dimensions?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

some more pictures of the strip down









The motor spindle has a spring mechanism at the rear so that when adjusting the burrs inwards the whole shaft can move with them

The motor is a nice simple induction type so no carbon brush's to wear out (also no sparks in a dusty environment)

The bearings at either end are the phosphor bronze type- the front one becomes noisy when the shaft is pushed back so a new bush is on order

16mm Internal dia x 22mm external dia x 20mm long £6 off flea bay


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> No problem
> 
> I can vectorise that for you. Usually print guys prefer 1:1 scale (even though it wouldn't make a diff), so could you supply the dimensions?


will do once im under the paint tomorrow - the example shown is from a picture on Kaffee Netz - but I should have the remains of a couple under the black paint:good:


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

the bag holding mechanism almost deservers its own thread, quality castings finished in a nickel plate.

all solid and working as well as the day it was made, a nice touch for something that could have been made from plastic and bent sheet metal


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

a nice touch is the white plastic liner to the exit chute to reduce retention (with mystery white powder)!. The finish of the mechanism shows that it was highly polished - there are a few hidden surfaces that show this, and although I like the satin look the paint has to come off and might as well head for the almost new look, so its buffer time - you know I cant resist,


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

looking into a bit of the history of Mhalkonig, ive come across this article -

http://gcrmag.com/marketing/view/mahlkoenigs-coffee-grinder-technology-and-craftsmanship

from this I can see that it wasn't till the 1960,s that Mhalkonig concentrated on coffee grinders up to then they had been supplying electric motors as well, it fits in with a joint enterprise to produce grinders with Stawert. Certainly the EK43 is a 30yr old design going back to the late 80's I believe - I haven't found a year of manufacture yet but the switch gear suggests 60,s ?

^ also that Mhalkonig have a poster in the factory that says "Keep Calm and Grind Flat" I suppose its what they do best


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> ^ also that Mhalkonig have a poster in the factory that says "Keep Calm and Grind Flat" I suppose its what they do best


 haha gotta have that!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

removing the inner burr holder, this is a cast iron insert held in place by a grub screw at the base and 50yrs of grime, a soak overnight with penetrating oil eventually freed it up.









the insert needed to come out to expose the end of the bronze bush so it can be drifted out and replaced


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

The removal of the insert gives a chance to measure it properly and see if its possible to fit 54mm burrs - and it is,

even drilling and tapping the holes is now easy with the insert out - will still try with the original burrs first but its a fall back plan


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

also had a chance to remove the transformer / switch / and fuse, the interesting thing is that the transformer was made in the USA by 'Texas Instruments' and the part is dated 1960 although this may be patent date, at least we know we are looking at the 60's









the other thing is the wiring colours of the plug - white -live / black - neutral / Red -earth, so its certainly pre euro wiring regs


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

All that detective work  love it!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> All that detective work  love it!


a vintage Mhalkonig requires a quality vintage detective


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Not that it would matter much, but here's an article about a Mahlkönig factory visit:

https://europeancoffeetrip.com/seeing-mahlkoenig-production/

You can see in one of the images how they approach burr-making. Looks like handicraft to me, so I can't imagine why it wouldn't be possible for them to do custom stuff. Apart from German Eins-Zwo-Eins-Zwo correctness and inability to step out of the box


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Fresh off the Cad board thanks to @Hasi - I am so grateful









I just need to get some printed up on transfer paper with a colour laser - its also here for anyone to use in the future


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Fresh off the Cad board thanks to @Hasi - I am so grateful
> 
> 
> 
> ...


just you wait Mr Jim!

I was only sending you a sample for approval - not appraisal  but thx anyways. Give me some more time and I'll do them shadows/outlines so it will match the original condition


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Excited with the basic but drop shadow second colour would be great - that's my xmas done and dusted


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

There you go 

If any corrections are to be made, please don't hesitate to point me towards a better result!

Jim, would you please PM me your email address so I can send you the vector eps and pdf files?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> There you go
> 
> If any corrections are to be made, please don't hesitate to point me towards a better result!
> 
> Jim, would you please PM me your email address so I can send you the vector eps and pdf files?


Wow and thanks , will PM now


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Such a kind gesture that little beast is going to look amazing once finished


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Ive been getting dirty in the bunker with a couple of strippers, Nitromores and Envirostrip, but the results speak for them...&#8230;&#8230;.what? &#8230;...what?... its a Christmas tradition !


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

This is such a pretty grinder and will look amazing next to a first generation La Pavoni!


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

It is a joy to watch these old things come back to life ..


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Nicknak said:


> It is a joy to watch these old things come back to life ..


Currently it's deader than dead


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

Hasi said:


> Currently it's deader than dead


No it's currently asleep having major surgery ..


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Nicknak said:


> No it's currently asleep having major surgery ..


Its having a joint replacement









Dermabrasion


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

My wife needs a bit of that


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Orthodontic work









Heart transplant









And a tattoo


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

Tattoo ?.. mid life crisis


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Nicknak said:


> Tattoo ?.. mid life crisis


Might get it a sports car in the shape of new 54mm burrs, but we will see


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

I do love a good strip down...... And Jimbo's restoration threads are great too


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

slight delay in proceedings while north of the border visiting my grandson and future apprentice

PS for anyone visiting the new V&A in Dundee the building is fantastic but there is only 1 free exhibition on Scottish design and 1 paying exhibition on liners, also best avoid the coffee.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Did you lend him your jumper?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

coffeechap said:


> Did you lend him your jumper?


shhh - his mother knitted it


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Haha great!

Family always comes first 



jimbojohn55 said:


> my grandson and future apprentice


... does mommy approve by now?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Haha great!
> 
> Family always comes first
> 
> ... does mommy approve by now?


we discussed the concept, but I think he was more focused on a brio wooden train at the time


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Burr research, one of the things about the original burrs that I noticed was that they were 'roughly sandcast' - you could see that the unsharpened elements of the burrs were rough and sand textured - they had had never been sharpened, this seemed a little odd why make such a precise and well engineered grinder then use a pair of rough sand cast burrs, it made little sense.

I started looking and reading about Mhalkonig current burrs then the lengthy sharpening process they undertake - aha (I said like Alan Partridge)- Mhalkonig make their burrs from cast iron as its hardness far exceeds tool steel that everyone else uses - this now makes sense, even back in the 60,s they were making the burrs as hard wearing as possible (30-40% harder than tool steel). Never having owed an EK43 I looked as some burr close ups and yep there are the cast iron sand textures on the unsharpened parts of the burrs -









so where does this leave me, well EK does offer a sharpening service for current burrs, I wont even try to ask them about a set from the 60,s but the good news is that cast iron Burrs on the W1BN are only ground on their flat surface with no angle cutting required as the sand casting marks are visible in the grooves on the flats. I don't ever expect them to grind brilliantly but then im not sure what 2880rpm will do apart from the heat that will likely be imparted, having said this as I stumble around this technology my respect for what they produced in the 60's is growing.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

You going to get them reground? Do you have the kit to do it yourself?


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jj-x-ray said:


> You going to get them reground? Do you have the kit to do it yourself?


That would be terrific!!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> That would be terrific!!


Hahaha, to be honest it will only need the right grade of wet and dry and a flat cast iron bed of my handsaw


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Hahaha, to be honest it will only need the right grade of wet and dry and a flat cast iron bed of my handsaw


Hey! I want the same Jimbojohn precision we have all come to expect


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

coffeechap said:


> Hey! I want the same Jimbojohn precision we have all come to expect


So we'll see a custom made wooden tool that does it all?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> So we'll see a custom made wooden tool that does it all?


I might wear a santa hat while I regrind them, if that helps


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

quick sticker test on the back of my Major - colours are different in real life


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> quick sticker test on the back of my Major - colours are different in real life
> 
> View attachment 38129


yey!

me bumpers are a-waitin'


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Its Christmas day and there is nothing I enjoy more as a treat than coming down to the bunker to find that Santa had left me a flattened base board for a W1BN grinder

A week earlier







super warped hardboard base

then santa wet it (with water I think)! and put it in the bunker a week ago between two boards with a big pile of festive heavy stuff and sent me to Scotland for a few days









Then on xmas day I got to unwrap it (lift the weights off) and bingo







proof that there is a santa


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

You are Santa Claus Jim


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

coffeechap said:


> you are santa claus jim


spoiler alert!!!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Bearing removal - in order to remove the bronze bushing and replace it requires the old one to be tapped out with a bush seating tool - fortunately these are just £15 and come with a wide range of sizes for future use - just choose the right one that fits the spindle diameter, and a few taps and its out.

The alternative is using a socket of the right size but they wobble and don't apply even pressure.

Also don't forget that wearing a tie in the workshop is an essential to quality pimping.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Are you turning it into a wxy1blophone now?

And where is your tie?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Are you turning it into a wxy1blophone now?
> 
> And where is your tie?


its in my picture


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Psst....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grose-alte-Kaffeemuhle-Mahlkonig-antik-elektrisch/331816931169?hash=item4d41d48f61:g:AcoAAOxy63FS3~zC:rk:19f:0

Another style of Pope Grinder? I wonder if any parts are the same


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I KNEW I'd seen you somewhere before. you are pretty famous for your ingenious home espresso machine . . .


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Great thread Jim!


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

MildredM said:


> I KNEW I'd seen you somewhere before. you are pretty famous for your ingenious home espresso machine . . .


It's got a built-in timer function? Wow!!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Paint - at some time this grinder has been stripped back to bare metal and hand painted black but the original traces are still visible - a red oxide primer and a gold top coat. Its these colours I will reuse in painting it


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Oooooooo gold


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Adjustment mechanism - quick strip down, clean and polish, its quite straightforward and gives about 160 degrees of adjustment between Grob and Fein

Nicely made components here too.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Can you at least put a little effort into getting it shiney ��


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Adjustment mechanism - quick strip down, clean and polish, its quite straightforward and gives about 160 degrees of adjustment between Groß and Fein
> 
> Nicely made components here too.
> 
> ...


Fixed it for you!


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

I really need to get a buffing wheel!! Great work as always Jim. Excited to see this one finished


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Mechanism itself isn't too far away from what I've seen on my Guatemala... but it's all metal on the old Pope!

What were the available original colours again? Red, gold and copper? Was there even a black one?

It needs to be golden, anyways. IMHO... Glad that it once was, so restoring its original colour is very much to my liking 

Keep up the good work Jim!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

I don't think they were ever made in black, I just need to find the right shade of gold


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jimbojohn55 said:


> I don't think they were ever made in black, I just need to find the right shade of gold


Ubtiinknthe shade is called "bling bling"


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

coffeechap said:


> Ubtiinknthe shade is called "bling bling"


I will ask the assistant in Halfords if he has any "Ubtiinknthe shade bling bling"

hang on isn't "Ubtiinknthe shade " the well known rapper from the Urals in Russia!












​


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## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

Try you local 'nail bar'?

I am sure they will have it or one of the girls will know where to find it!


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Batian said:


> Try you local 'nail bar'?
> 
> I am sure they will have it or one of the girls will know where to find it!


"Hello girls at the local nail bar, I'd like to purchase a year's worth of daily nail varnish. It's for the Pope!"


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

ashcroc said:


> Fixed it for you!


Alas no! Grob and groß are 2 different things. The first means coarse and the second with the Esszett means 'large/great'. Esszett (literally 'sz') only exists as a lowercase letter, and its form is derived from the old style s that looked like an 'f' without the crossbar, coupled with an s, which over time came to resemble a ß. In capitals, it's SS. Sorry, you brought out the Teutophile typographer nerd in me that lurks below the surface... 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%9F

https://de.happycoffee.org/blogs/kaffeezubereitung/mahlgrad-kaffee


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

hotmetal said:


> Alas no! Grob and groß are 2 different things. The first means coarse and the second with the Esszett means 'large/great'. Esszett (literally 'sz') only exists as a lowercase letter, and its form is derived from the old style s that looked like an 'f' without the crossbar, coupled with an s, which over time came to resemble a ß. In capitals, it's SS. Sorry, you brought out the Teutophile typographer nerd in me that lurks below the surface...
> 
> https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%9F
> 
> https://de.happycoffee.org/blogs/kaffeezubereitung/mahlgrad-kaffee


What part of my previous post made you think I didn't think an ß either existed or knew how it's used? Due to it's shape, it gets confused with a capital B from time to time.

As for grob being a word, I stand corrected. Google translate converts it to meaning rough which begs the question why rau wasn't used in the first place.


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Because 'rau' means 'rough' in the sense of 'raw' rather than coarse. But we're getting into the finer points (pun totally intended!)

I didn't assume you didn't know what one is, and wasn't trying to have a pop, just pointing out that the OP was correct, and then got a little carried away with my typography lesson, as that's what I do for a job. In German. Wasn't trying to point-score, just warming to my subjects. Plus in the pic you can see it is marked in all uppercase GROB-MITTEL-FEIN, and had the manufacturers meant groß it would have said GROSS.

Had hoped the smilies might have prevented offence being taken, as none was intended and its all good.

___

Eat, drink and be merry


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

hotmetal said:


> Because 'rau' means 'rough' in the sense of 'raw' rather than coarse. But we're getting into the finer points (pun totally intended!)


So does Grob!


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Haha - "rau" hätte ja eine lustige Beschriftung ergeben... zum Glück konnten die Kollegen bei Mahlkönig damals auch schon ganz gut Deutsch


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

ashcroc said:


> So does Grob!


Sorry to say, but when talking about grain size, terminology is straight "grob" 

It depends on the context... a surface can be "rau" for instance


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Haha - "rau" hätte ja eine lustige Beschriftung ergeben... zum Glück konnten die Kollegen bei Mahlkönig damals auch schon ganz gut Deutsch


Coming from a man who uses zwo instead of zwei (used to infuriate my germen teacher in school along with the Bavarian accent I picked up on holiday!) I appreciate that sentiment.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Sorry to say, but when talking about grain size, terminology is straight "grob"
> 
> It depends on the context... a surface can be "rau" for instance


Ok, so the contents of a puck could be 'grob' but the surface could be 'rau'!


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Ja, grob gesagt!

Ich hole jetzt meinen Mantel!

(Yes, roughly speaking. I'll get my coat...)



___

Eat, drink and be merry


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

to be fair to Mhalkonig - they printed both words in uppercase GROB and FEIN and something between them called MITTEL - a fine word with its roots in Saxon and Norse which translates as 'Mehh' or 'whateveeeer'


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Closely related to the old English "midden" meaning pool/heap of $#!te... 

___

Eat, drink and be merry


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

hotmetal said:


> Closely related to the old English "midden" meaning pool/heap of $#!te...
> 
> ___
> 
> Eat, drink and be merry


And a word that's still in use in Yorkshire at least. Midden is compost heap.


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Next it'll be the Beowulf grinder. Smashes the beans with its bare hands and then gets out the sword...

___

Eat, drink and be merry


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

hotmetal said:


> Next it'll be the Beowulf grinder. Smashes the beans with its bare hands and then gets out the sword...
> 
> ___
> 
> Eat, drink and be merry


Archaic. I like!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

So there is a dilemma with this grinder - the hopper and rear motor cover are aluminium that has been nickel plated, the dilemma lies in the fact that they have had a life of hard knocks and dings as well as the plating has started to lift in little patches here and there.

Option are

1 to strip the nickel plating, but I cant plate things that big

2 Leave apart from a buff up

3 sand and paint over in silver spray

ive gone with 2 - as it shows a certain amount of patina and age of the grinder. option 1 could be done at a later date if needed

I made a rough wooden former and removed the worst of the dings, I wont know quite how it matches up with the repaint till reassembly but we will see.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

A paint match - has finally been achieved - the problem lay in that the images of other W1BN grinders on line do not really convey the right colour, problems with colour display and digital images give the impression of a different shade of gold, however when you match up the remaining paint fragments with off the shelf colours you come up with a Plasticoat Antique Gold as an exact match







- again this image colour is close but not quite right, but you get the idea


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Have you thought about sending it to be done? I'm guessing Nickel plating isn't as expensive as other options?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Rhys said:


> Have you thought about sending it to be done? I'm guessing Nickel plating isn't as expensive as other options?


I have but to do it real justice you would get it professionally panel beaten before stripping, there is a theory that the hopper had a lid originally al though there is no sign of a fit line.

I think the thing to do is see what it looks at the far end after reassembly and make a decision at that point.


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## 9719 (Mar 29, 2015)

jimbojohn55 said:


> So there is a dilemma with this grinder - the hopper and rear motor cover are aluminium that has been nickel plated, the dilemma lies in the fact that they have had a life of hard knocks and dings as well as the plating has started to lift in little patches here and there.
> 
> Option are
> 
> ...


It always comes back to option 2 

Another fab job Jim enjoying following along as you return the beast to its former glory.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Red primer - it needs a couple of coats of this to build up the surface as the casting is quite rough in places. Ive used this Hammarite special metals primer a couple of times in the past, oddly its a water based paint unlike the rest of the Hammerite paints but does a great job and can be used with any top coat once fully dry. It looks like the old red iron oxide primer / Red Lead paint but its harmless and does a great job sticking to alloys.


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## lhavelund (Dec 28, 2018)

That is mighty pretty!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

As the casting is quite rough in places its taken three coats and its getting there, sanded with 1200g between coats...&#8230;&#8230;...Its like watching paint dry


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Just to add this to the right thread after adding it to the Bruni one - oops


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

two coats and decent lighting, looking less red


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## PPapa (Oct 24, 2015)

This could be a new EK43C - curved!

As iconic EK43 (tall) is, this base is actually looking pretty nice.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

PPapa said:


> This could be a new EK43C - curved!
> 
> As iconic EK43 (tall) is, this base is actually looking pretty nice.


It certainly flows, and is a great shape,


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

I think it is such a pretty grinder


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

After 3 coats of the gold paint, the finish was looking a bit bumpy with ripples from the brush strokes of the primer, so rubbed down the motor casing again and gradually built up another 3 coats over the weekend, Its my own fault not enough time on preparation









Anywhooo just put the first satin clear coat on and its coming together


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

The burrs were sharpened / flattened on a cast iron flat bed on my bandsaw using some 600grit wet and dry, the method was to rub the burrs in a circular motion while rotating the burrs a few degrees as I went

















Basically these burrs were only ever flattened at the outside edge to create a cutting surface the rest of them were left with a rough cast iron texture from new, simple I suppose, we shall see how they do spinning at 2880 rpm


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

quick tidy up of the burr screws - file off any burs then pop in the cordless drill and apply a bit of wet and dry, then mount up the burrs


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

After 2 coats of satin clear coat the logo went on, followed by another 2 clearcoats - then onto the cooker (which was still warm) and causing a sudden statement from my other half

















Edit ive realised how bad my phone camera is haha


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> After 2 coats of satin clear coat the logo went on, followed by another 2 clearcoats - then onto the cooker (which was still warm) and causing a sudden statement from my other half
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Love the colour. You planning a la pav base to match by any chance?


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

Stunning, can't believe the transformation from that shabby black


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> After 2 coats of satin clear coat the logo went on, followed by another 2 clearcoats - then onto the cooker (which was still warm) and causing a sudden statement from my other half
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ARRRRR I was so much waiting for these pics  terrific!



ashcroc said:


> Love the colour. You planning a la pav base to match by any chance?


My thought exactly


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> ARRRRR I was so much waiting for these pics  terrific!
> 
> My thought exactly


It could be done - its that a dare - I need to get my 95 pav base powder coated, having said that the grinder already has a classic pav waiting for it









Also my thanks to @Hasi again for sorting the logo out for me (I haven't forgotten about that shelf)


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## mmmatron (Jun 28, 2014)

Looks awesome!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Final assembly


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

And it runs great, and the burrs work 

the lever adjustment once set will take it from pour over to espresso - from Grob to Mittel to Fein


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

last couple of close ups


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

Looks great , well done ...Don't spend the next three years aligning the burrs


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Absolutely knock out work Jim, need to find you bigger challenges as you make this look too easy!


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Can't stop gawping


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

coffeechap said:


> Absolutely knock out work Jim, need to find you bigger challenges as you make this look too easy!


Got to refit the kitchen and bathroom next


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Got to refit the kitchen and bathroom next


Boo hoo, what's your resolve like?


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

coffeechap said:


> Boo hoo, what's your resolve like?


Buffing.

Hammerite.

And lots of it.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Hasi said:


> Buffing.
> 
> Hammerite.
> 
> And lots of it.


Exactly, Jim has to have a project on the boil


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

In all seriousness I can't wait to have the once black beauty and now gold goddess back on my bench


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

coffeechap said:


> Boo hoo, what's your resolve like?


Quite good I've managed to get out of it for 5 years


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Quite good I've managed to get out of it for 5 years


Your supposed to be working! Leave us to hatch up the next thread


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Quite good I've managed to get out of it for 5 years


Change all the taps for modified la pavs & you'll never be asked to do it again!


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## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Quite good I've managed to get out of it for 5 years


She will only moan about the mess









Mind you routers and jigs are good fun .... and loads of mess


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Nicknak said:


> She will only moan about the mess
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oi stop distracting him


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Mind you ive still got a Bruni to finish plus a Gaggia and another Bruni to do so It may take a while to choose worktops and tiles


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Mind you ive still got a Bruni to finish plus a Gaggia and another Bruni to do so It may take a while to choose worktops and tiles


Sorted the tiles for ya!


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Mind you ive still got a Bruni to finish plus a Gaggia and another Bruni to do so It may take a while to choose worktops and tiles


You don't know how relieved we all are!!!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hasi said:


> Can't stop gawping


My Grandfather from Whitechapel London used to Gawp at things - he would often say "stop gawping at the TV" or "stop gawping in the pet shop window"

- I haven't heard it used in common parlance in many a fine year.

Just out of curiosity @Hasi where did you find such a splendid colloquialism ?- please don't say it was Hagrids giant brother in Harry Potter


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> My Grandfather from Whitechapel London used to Gawp at things - he would often say "stop gawping at the TV" or "stop gawping in the pet shop window"
> 
> - I haven't heard it used in common parlance in many a fine year.
> 
> Just out of curiosity @Hasi where did you find such a splendid colloquialism ?- please don't say it was Hagrids giant brother in Harry Potter


Haha 

Can't recall... but I love linguistic antiques and relics of the olden days - as well as I'm usually falling for stuff from the past.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

So tell us Mr. Workshoptie: how's performance on this space age beaut?

Or is it @coffeechap who can answer?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Hasi said:


> So tell us Mr. Workshoptie: how's performance on this space age beaut?
> 
> Or is it @coffeechap who can answer?


Haven't had a play yet, been preoccupied with the ZM


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## ohemgi (Oct 12, 2020)

Moring all~ I hope you don't mind me adding a post to this thread. Finding this restoration is a godsend for me as I'm attempting a similar one, and since I don't have as much experience with machinery this is a great example to follow.

Here's the patient: an EK2HS (hopper sitting to the side):










Not quite as pretty as a W1BN, but still nice. This model uses an interesting means of adjusting the burrs. There are no springs, instead the stationary crusher is slid back and forth using a thread:










It has 65mm burrs - which I had assumed that I would have to either live with or replace. @coffeechap's sharpening skills are inspiring though and I would like to have a crack:










I also plan to have the chassis re-enameled, have the shiny bits re-chromed & replace a switch or capacitor or two. As far as I can tell, with my limited experience, the burrs seems ok - the motor is quiet and spins for a long time after the power is disconnected.

There's really one thing that I'm completely stuck with - how in the heck do I get this thing off? There don't seem to be any screws holding it. I'm guessing that it's pressed onto the rotor? is there a tool for these situations?










Exiting stuff! This is the second grinder I've picked up, here's the first, a favorite k0b, running smoothly now (just need to fix those tarnished caps):










great to meet you all - I'll keep you updated~!


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## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

@ohemgi - Looks like a lot of fun! Your previous refurb paint is great.

Is the carrier brazed onto the rotor spindle shaft? Almost looks like it but the pic is a bit blurred. I think normal options would be bearing puller if an interference fit, but I would be worried about getting back on after.

If it is working do you need to do a full tear down?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

The auger holds the burr carrier in place which should have a thread


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## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

@coffeechap - Interesting!

How would you remove it then, grip the auger and use some kind of three pronged pin spanner in the burr screw holes?

I would be intrigued to know which way the motor spins and thread direction to avoid precession with the grinding. 🤔


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