# Londinium query: lubricating steam toggle at the ball joint?



## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

What is the correct approach to lubricating the ball joint, at the end of the steam toggle? Do you use the silicone gasket lubricant, or mineral oil, or some other oil? If it is not a good idea to put any lubrication on this, set me straight, please.

The toggle joint feels a bit rough, "scrapes" a bit, metal to metal, so not buttery smooth in its operation. I suspect it just needs oiling, to be like-new again.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

For ball joints on coffee machines the usual lubricant is a light smear of the food grade silicone grease (as used on your seals)


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I am not sure what the workings are in yours but in my L-R when it was a bit 'notchy' we discovered it was missing a washer assembly.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Was this the cupped brass washer ?


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Thanks for those suggestions @MildredM & @El carajillo!

I thoroughly wiped what looked like previous lubrications away. Black grease, mixed with a bit slight bit of grit (maybe a few grains of coffee dirt or dust?), and relubricated the ball area lightly with my finger & the silicone grease that came with the machine. I'll also look into other food grade silicone grease, as this one seems a bit thick & sticky. For now, it seems a little bit smoother, I think, but it is by no means buttery smooth.


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

El carajillo said:


> Was this the cupped brass washer ?


 and is that also found on the older londinium 1?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

El carajillo said:


> Was this the cupped brass washer ?


 No, it wasn't. I've been trying to find the thread about it . . . Still looking ?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Right, it was a fat O ring or PTFE washer that was missing in mine. I am not sure if the gubbins are the same in the L1 as the L-R though.


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

red arrow points to where your washer would be?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Hmmm . . . No!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The component No 7 ? is the washer I was referring to. Component No 6 is often a teflon washer.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

@Deidre Did you release the nut and clean inside around the ball and clean the the washers OR did you just grease around the visible portion of the ball ?


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

El carajillo said:


> @Deidre Did you release the nut and clean inside around the ball and clean the the washers OR did you just grease around the visible portion of the ball ?


 I didn't loosen the nut, just cleaned the exposed area with a damp cloth, and used the cloth to cover a thin plastic tool to slip into & wipe areas where my finger was too big. Maybe I should be braver!?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Definitely go for it. Just be prepared for the fact it is spring loaded. As you undo the nut the spring will un / decompress, just hold the lever firmly as the pressure / tension releases.

Clean all components and lubricate, loosely assemble then firmly press on the lever to slightly compress the spring to enable you to start the nut, then retighten with spanner NOT TOO TIGHT just nip it up.


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

And take photos! That way, if there isn't an improvement you will know what is in there/if anything is missing/if it needs any replacement parts


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## iroko (Nov 9, 2012)

molycote 111 is good for the the ball joint, or the grease on the Londinium website.


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

iroko said:


> molycote 111 is good for the the ball joint, or the grease on the Londinium website.


 Here is what I have (and as much as I am VERY trepidatious about taking things apart?, I shall give it a go tomorrow!) Thanks for the tips & guidance!


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Just to be sure we are talking about the same ball joint. My problem is with the ball joint connecting to the the black acrylic finger toggle (B), and not the ball joint where the steam arm rotates (A). I think we are on the same page, but then thought better to double-check before going in with tools!


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Yes, the toggle joint assembly


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## PPapa (Oct 24, 2015)

I'll probably be taking those apart this weekend as part of piston seal replacement...

Is it as straight forward as just unscrewing them at the joint?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

PPapa said:


> I'll probably be taking those apart this weekend as part of piston seal replacement...
> 
> Is it as straight forward as just unscrewing them at the joint?


 What? Your toggles?


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## PPapa (Oct 24, 2015)

MildredM said:


> What? Your toggles?


 Yeah sorry, I meant the toggles.

I have removed the piston before which was super easy.


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Did the service kit include toggle washers?


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## PPapa (Oct 24, 2015)

MildredM said:


> Did the service kit include toggle washers?


 I didn't go for a service kit for some reason while ordering the shower screens last week. Doh.


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Well I don't know, I'd leave the toggles alone if they're not notchy!


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

I am so glad you encouraged me to disassemble the ball joint area!!! It was ugly in there, black grease & filings. I have wiped off all the grease & debris, and am now ready to relubricate and put back together. Question is, which areas & parts get grease, and which areas should I keep completely free of grease? I don't want to put grease anywhere it shouldn't be, if that is an issue in these components? (I will attach pictures.) Also, how lightly or heavily does one grease these parts?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Wow! That looks SO much better for a strip down and clean! Well done you 

A smear of 111 on any moving parts would be my advice *but I am no expert.* How do you measure a smear of grease?!!! Not blathered in it but enough to be visible . . . I can't think how to describe it.


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

ok, a light smear on everything moveable it is! And what about that internal "tunnel" of the bigger main pipe, leading to the front of the machine? Should I push some grease in there as well, or is that meant to be left clean?

(Nothing on the Dow "111" label says "food safe", but at this stage of life I suppose it's a non-issue for me!??)


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I am not sure but if there isn't anything moving down there I wouldn't. Hopefully someone will be along soonwith more knowledge


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Not down inside, just the moving parts and seals and the curved cup washer shape where the lever moves, not the outside of the chromed nut .

PS just a thin smear / coating is all you need. Now you know how to do it no probs next time :good:


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Great! ?

I gave all the moving parts & seals & that funny curved cup washer an even & light smear, but what about the end cap (as well as the concave bit it fits into)? (See attached picture.) I don't think they move, once assembled, or do they? Should those get a smear as well? (sorry for being overly cautious about what & where... too cautious by far!?)

(The 111 stuff is a very thick & sticky grease, I must say!)


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I don't think it would hurt*. Yes, it is very thick and sticky - and it should stay put on those surfaces and donuts job!

*but I am not sure!


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

A snag... just when I was thinking this was going better than expected?.

I put the end pieces & spring back into the "tunnel"; and whereas before the spring was sunk well into that tunnel, it now projects out. I had thought when I screwed on the remaining toggle end bits, the spring would squish & go back in. Not so. When I tighten things up, the spring doesn't seem to move much. And the other aspect is that the toggle won't budge once I tighten it to the point you see in picture. (If things are not screwed together, the toggle & ball are smooth as butter.)


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Hmmmmm obviously you have double checked everything has gone back in the right order and have 'seated' together?


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Oh gosh, despite taking pictures as I went, I think I may have turned the spring part around the wrong way! I thought I laid everything out in order, but maybe I had a brain to hand hiccup!? ? Will try the other way round & report back ?⚙??


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Very red-faced with embarrassment, here!

In case anyone follows my lead, don't! I had the spring & brass stem part turned end for end!

The spring & associated stem parts (with end cap) should go into the "tunnel", not against the toggle parts as I had shown earlier. (I'll heat up machine now just to be sure all is A-OK, but I think I've seen the error of my ways.?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Phew ? we'll done for sorting it out ? ?


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

Fired her up & all is well! ?

Thanks for your guidance and moral support!☺

When I have fully recovered from this steam toggle experience, I should have a go at the hot water tap components!??


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

I would be wise to remove the pictures I posted earlier, those showing assembly of parts in the wrong order, but can no longer edit those posts. Is there some hidden route to edit posts after the edit option is no longer showing?


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

You should be able to edit your posts by clicking on the edit option although I think it is disabled after so many days. If you tell me which post number I could take the photo off maybe?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Glad all turned out well and congratulations on completing it, there it was not so bad after all was it  . Another tick in your log book


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## Deidre (Aug 13, 2019)

MildredM said:


> You should be able to edit your posts by clicking on the edit option although I think it is disabled after so many days. If you tell me which post number I could take the photo off maybe?


 The Edit option only lasts for a short period of time, from what I have experienced. After an hour or two, sometimes less, it has disappeared.

*The main thing is that no one follow my picture as a guide to assembling*!??


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## iroko (Nov 9, 2012)

Good job, now you've done one side you might as well do the other side, its the same procedure.


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