# Gaggia Classic 2002 refurb.



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

I am attempting to strip down and rebuild the above machine, I've not done anything that involves steam before. I am more at home with handling timber!

To date I've stripped out all the components except the pump, photos to follow. Before I began I had loan of the pressure gauge from the forum to set the OPV which I did without any problems, a brilliant facility. After I posted the gauge on to the next user I realised I hadn't stripped and cleaned the OPV!

I came across a post by ratty, who suggested that to give a reading of 9 bar at the brew head the distance from the top of the valve when the nut is removed to the top of the Allen screw is 11.5 mm brilliant!
Another forum member told me how to remove the shower screen, and shower screen holder where the holding screw had been stripped.

At the moment I am waiting for the delivery of two thermostats, brew and an upgrade steam one. Then hopefully start putting it back together.

I am struggling to release the Steam valve from the boiler in order to put a new gasket on, the bolts come out no Problem but the actual valve is stuck tight to the boiler! Any suggestions as to how to remove it without causing any damage to boiler or valve. Should I just leave well alone?

The machine spent it's life in a soft water area and was owned from new from the person I bought it from The boiler internally was pretty clean going by some I've seen on here!

It's great to know that spare parts are still available for the Classic.


----------



## MrSmartepants (Aug 3, 2020)

Yikes! Well, at least the inside of the boiler looks OK.

I had trouble releasing my steam valve also. What worked for me is wiggling it side to side while pulling up. The brass section has a 90 deg bend that sits about 1cm into the boiler. There's some play to rotate the valve a few mm both clockwise and counter to loosen the valve.

The 11.5mm measurement for the OPV is just a starting point. When I used it, my static pressure reading from the group head was 5 bar.

Oh, you're definitely going to need a new shower screen (and shower block).


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

MrSmartepants said:


> Yikes! Well, at least the inside of the boiler looks OK.
> 
> I had trouble releasing my steam valve also. What worked for me is wiggling it side to side while pulling up. The brass section has a 90 deg bend that sits about 1cm into the boiler. There's some play to rotate the valve a few mm both clockwise and counter to loosen the valve.
> 
> ...


 I will try to do as you say with the steam valve. Just don't want to damage it. I think the sideways movement allows the spindle to be positioned central in the hole on the side of the machine for the steam knob?
When I initially set the OPV at 10 bar on the gauge attached to the Portafilter, (as per thread advice) to give 9 bar at the group head. When I started to strip it down to clean it, which should have been done first! I measured the depth of the Allen nut from the top of the valve it was 11mm. So after a clean I positioned it at 11.5mm. Looks like I my need to use the gauge again😄
It's all part of the learning process I suppose,


----------



## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

It looks like you've got it off?

If not, try getting some leverage with a spanner and giving it some firm taps to rotate it using a hammer. It's stuck on with scale and you've just got to break that scale. Once ours broken it'll lift out


----------



## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

^^ That's the OPV!

Get a decent flat headed screwdriver and wedge it between the top of the boiler and bottom of the steam valve and try and lever it up and then wiggle it as others have mentioned. Some warm water poured into the boiler may help to get the valve warm as well.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

One photo shows the OPV stripped down.
I'll give it another go later with the screwdriver and warm water!

Hopefully the thermostats will arrive later today, then I can begin to reassemble it. Just hope it goes back as easily as it came apart!

great fun though!

thanks to all for your input.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

MartinB said:


> ^^ That's the OPV!
> 
> Get a decent flat headed screwdriver and wedge it between the top of the boiler and bottom of the steam valve and try and lever it up and then wiggle it as others have mentioned. Some warm water poured into the boiler may help to get the valve warm as well.


 I managed to remove the steam valve by putting warm water into the boiler, which in turn warmed the steam valve. I ran a bit of warm water through it.

Then used your suggested screwdriver method, and with a bit of side to side movement it came off! My next dilemma is how to strip it down, I understand you need to grind a bit of brass away from around the spindle?

I have a new gasket for it, I don't have the facility to cut the brass, could I clean it internally with what cleaning solution?


----------



## ChilledMatt (May 9, 2015)

Like you say the only way to strip the valve down is to grind the brass away that holds the retaining washer. Otherwise it's a good soak in citric acid, but it will likely still drip.

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

When you reassemble the steam valve to the boiler, leave the bolts slack until you have centred up the steam knob in the hole in the case, then tighten up.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

El carajillo said:


> When you reassemble the steam valve to the boiler, leave the bolts slack until you have centred up the steam knob in the hole in the case, then tighten up.


 Thanks for that, top tip!


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

ChilledMatt said:


> Like you say the only way to strip the valve down is to grind the brass away that holds the retaining washer. Otherwise it's a good soak in citric acid, but it will likely still drip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk


 I can't be sure the steam wand drips. When I got it I primed it and put some water through the wand. I was able to shut it off and I don't think it dripped?

I'll soak it in citric, fit a new gasket, then see how it performs.🤞


----------



## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/54650-gaggia-classic-steam-valve-with-tex-mod/?do=embed


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Started to reassemble the machine today. Fitted a new boiler gasket after skimming face of meeting face with wet and dry.
The thermal paste arrived today. applied to both thermostats.

I replaced the gaskets to solenoid, OPV valve and steam valve. I gave the steam valve a good soaking in citric acid, fingers crossed it doesn't leak!

IMS shower screen, brass holder and a cafelat silicone Gasket.

I also changed the steam wand for a Rancilio.

To my surprise it fired up first time, with no leaks!

I really enjoyed working on this Classic. the first one I've done, learned a lot, and had some useful advice from forum members.
Looking forward to making a brew tomorrow.

And maybe doing another one!


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)




----------



## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Awesome. Great work!


----------



## phario (May 7, 2017)

Mulligrub said:


> Started to reassemble the machine today. Fitted a new boiler gasket after skimming face of meeting face with wet and dry.
> The thermal paste arrived today. applied to both thermostats.
> 
> I replaced the gaskets to solenoid, OPV valve and steam valve. I gave the steam valve a good soaking in citric acid, fingers crossed it doesn't leak!
> ...


 Holy crap, how did you get the grouphead top that shiny? How was the condition prior?


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

To be fair the before group head was in good condition prior to a clean. I don't think the machine although a one owner, hadn't been used for a few years!


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

What a great job you've done @MulligrubI've got a 2002 in great condition and hardly used so I've added a PID, Cafelat and Rancilio wand - probably like yours one careful owner who never used it

Now I've bought another that's not working and I'll be following your lead on everything as I think the bolts look a little corroded

What did you do about remembering the wiring connections? Was it Photos?


----------



## ChilledMatt (May 9, 2015)

Uncletits said:


> What did you do about remembering the wiring connections? Was it Photos?


I number them with a sharpie and either photograph or make a quick diagram.









Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> What a great job you've done @MulligrubI've got a 2002 in great condition and hardly used so I've added a PID, Cafelat and Rancilio wand - probably like yours one careful owner who never used it
> 
> Now I've bought another that's not working and I'll be following your lead on everything as I think the bolts look a little corroded
> 
> What did you do about remembering the wiring connections? Was it Photos?


 I number the connections carefully and make a diagram, also it's a good idea to take a photo before you start. I was told never to disconnect the front switches, keep them intact. I just un clipped them and pulled them though the hole covering them to avoid scratching the front panel.

I've finished the 2002 G.C. now and have started stripping down a 2011 model which again hasn't been used much! It's noticeable how the quality of the components differ between the two models.

Photos to follow.

Hope You will enjoy the process of refurbishing your machine, I certainly did, that's why I decided to do another one😀

I will fit a PID or maybe a BoostBox To one of them, I don't know which.

I couldn't have done any of this work without the help and guidance from the forum members.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Just an update on my 2002 Classic. I adjusted the OPV today, it was much harder to do than my 2011 Classic which I did at the same time. 
It took me six attempts to get a reading of 9.5! 
The steam wand is leaking a bit, so the descale I did hasn't improved it. I understand there is a mod that can be done to it to my it easier to strip down and clean, something I will need to do. Other than that I am pleased with the finished job, and really enjoyed doing it.

Yet to make a brew!


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> Just an update on my 2002 Classic. I adjusted the OPV today, it was much harder to do than my 2011 Classic which I did at the same time.
> It took me six attempts to get a reading of 9.5!
> The steam wand is leaking a bit, so the descale I did hasn't improved it. I understand there is a mod that can be done to it to my it easier to strip down and clean, something I will need to do. Other than that I am pleased with the finished job, and really enjoyed doing it.
> 
> ...


 I recognise that 😀


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> I recognise that 😀


 Worked a treat!

Thanks.


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

You've done a great job - I have issues with my 2002!

Bolts are all broken so I need to soak and revisit

I've got the group and boiler separated but needed to drill the heads off a couple

Got quite a bit of scale but I'm determined to carry on and get it working

I'll get some photos


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> You've done a great job - I have issues with my 2002!
> 
> Bolts are all broken so I need to soak and revisit
> 
> ...


 I would be interested to see any photos. Sounds like maybe the machine has suffered some kind of water damage in the past?

I am going to attempt to pull a shot or two tomorrow on my 2002 Classic, Fingers crossed !


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> I would be interested to see any photos. Sounds like maybe the machine has suffered some kind of water damage in the past?
> 
> I am going to attempt to pull a shot or two tomorrow on my 2002 Classic, Fingers crossed !


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> View attachment 45768
> 
> 
> View attachment 45769


 Is this boiler out of your 2002 Classic?


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Yes in all it's glory - I have this one and another spotless working one

This was sold as no water through the group - so blocked solenoid or blocked hole to the solenoid


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Uncletits said:


> Yes in all it's glory - I have this one and another spotless working one
> 
> This was sold as no water through the group - so blocked solenoid or blocked hole to the solenoid


 Got 3 out - Corrosion was where it went through the boiler


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Got 3 out - Corrosion was where it went through the boiler
> 
> View attachment 45789


 It's looking better already.

It would probably benefit by a long soak in citric acid? That's what I used on mine, but mine wasn't a bad as yours. 
If you can persuade the remaining bolt to come out, you are on your way!

I am thinking about fitting a PID on one of my machines, I don't know which one yet. Could you maybe put a photo up of the PID setup on your other machine please? It'll give some idea of positioning.
thank you.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

I put these stick on felt pads on my machine, not an original idea, one suggested by Dave I think? brilliant, much easier to move the machine when it comes to filling the reservoir in my case


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> It's looking better already.
> 
> It would probably benefit by a long soak in citric acid? That's what I used on mine, but mine wasn't a bad as yours.
> If you can persuade the remaining bolt to come out, you are on your way!
> ...


 Standard @MrShades set up as I have room and slightly lower to accommodate the socket

Benefits I've found are the brew temperature set to 93°C means no bitter coffee and as it is using an electronic sensor the fluctuations are smaller - so mine goes between 89°C to 94°C - you also lose the steam stat and use the brew stat - mine is set to 137°C so is cycling around 133°C to 146°C

Amazing how anal you become about the temperatures!


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Standard @MrShades set up as I have room and slightly lower to accommodate the socket
> 
> Benefits I've found are the brew temperature set to 93°C means no bitter coffee and as it is using an electronic sensor the fluctuations are smaller - so mine goes between 89°C to 94°C - you also lose the steam stat and use the brew stat - mine is set to 137°C so is cycling around 133°C to 146°C
> 
> ...


 Many thanks for the photo and information on your setup, looks good, I like the cups very much, are they stoneware?

My first attempt today at pulling a shot wasn't very productive! Next thing on my list is to fit PID soon!

I noticed the steam output was really powerful! Could this be down to upping the thermostat 155*?


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> Many thanks for the photo and information on your setup, looks good, I like the cups very much, are they stoneware?
> 
> My first attempt today at pulling a shot wasn't very productive! Next thing on my list is to fit PID soon!
> 
> I noticed the steam output was really powerful! Could this be down to upping the thermostat 155*?


 Did you tamp the Limini? I only need to tap the portafilter on the worktop as the grind is so fine

Every different brand of coffee is different in the portafilter

Steam needs to be powerful especially with a Rancilio - start it just above or just in the milk

The Blue cup is Denby - Yellow was from Sainsburys


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Did you tamp the Limini? I only need to tap the portafilter on the worktop as the grind is so fine
> 
> Every different brand of coffee is different in the portafilter
> 
> ...


 Hopefully the Limini will be arriving tomorrow. Will try the no tamp method.
Okay on the steam technique.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Mulligrub said:


> I put these stick on felt pads on my machine, not an original idea, one suggested by Dave I think? brilliant, much easier to move the machine when it comes to filling the reservoir in my case
> 
> View attachment 45790
> 
> ...


 Just a quick edit, don't put the felt pads on the front rubber feet. You'll have trouble putting the Portafilter in, the machine will move about! 
You can raise the front of the machine to slide it out for in my case fill the reservoir


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Did you tamp the Limini? I only need to tap the portafilter on the worktop as the grind is so fine
> 
> Every different brand of coffee is different in the portafilter
> 
> ...


 The Limini pre ground arrived. Really impressed with their service. My first attempt at pulling a shot was not very good, most likely down to my technique not the coffee.
My second attempt after re reading posts about "temp surfing" produced a drinkable shot! I used the steam switch method, flick it on for 5 seconds then off before hitting the brew switch. I put 14g in the basket, got 27g out over 25 sec! I mainly have milk based drinks. I'll play around with the quantities and timings. @MrShades is out of PID stock at the moment. I will most likely fit one next.

The coffee is delicious. Thanks for the recommendation.


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

@MulligrubGreat to hear - I use a 21g basket so it can be difficult sometimes but I just learn to not be too greedy! With the coffee

Advice? Descaling your boiler - What did you do?


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> @MulligrubGreat to hear - I use a 21g basket so it can be difficult sometimes but I just learn to not be too greedy! With the coffee
> 
> Advice? Descaling your boiler - What did you do?


 21g basket? I don't think I have one of those in my kit? Do you fill it completely?

I put a tapered wooden dowel in the hole for the steam valve on top of the boiler. Turned it upside down with the 4 electrical connections on the bottom in a tray, the filled the boiler with a fairly warm citric acid solution. Then emptied it out and refilled it several times, each time trying to remove any build up of scale. But mine wasn't as bad as yours.

Some recommend using a wire brush about the size of a toothbrush!


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Brilliant Rob - off I go!

I use the Gaggia measuring spoon I have x 3so it doesn't fill right up


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Brilliant Rob - off I go!
> 
> I use the Gaggia measuring spoon I have x 3so it doesn't fill right up


 Thanks for that. Good luck with the boiler!


----------



## Nightrider_1uk (Apr 26, 2020)

Mulligrub said:


> The steam wand is leaking a bit, so the descale I did hasn't improved it.


 They all leak at some point I think. I just put a cloth under mine. I will do the mod if it becomes too bad.


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> Thanks for that. Good luck with the boiler!


 First clean and YES got the last broken bolt out!


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Ready for the citric acid treatment? A skim and polish of the meeting faces? looking good.

I managed to order a PID kit today from @MrShades now back in stock! Looking forward to fitting it.


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> Ready for the citric acid treatment? A skim and polish of the meeting faces? looking good.
> 
> I managed to order a PID kit today from @MrShades now back in stock! Looking forward to fitting it.


 Brilliant - not a 5 minute job but worth it

Ask if you need any help


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Just arrived today from @MrShades Very quick delivery.

I've just printed off the 60 page manual! So that's my weekend reading sorted!

Undecided on which machine to fit it on, the 2002. or the 2011 Classic?


----------



## phario (May 7, 2017)

Mulligrub said:


> Undecided on which machine to fit it on, the 2002. or the 2011 Classic?


 My main issue with the pre-2003/04 models is that the base plate holding the boiler attached is attached to the main chassis via isolated 'tabs', which seem more prone to failing (you can search on the forums here about the issue). The design was changed after 2004 to be more robust. In the event that the small tabs fail, you would have to use JB weld or similar. Moreover, because of the small tab design, it means that putting in a bolt to keep it attached is difficult. Overall, I would much prefer a post-2004 case if all other things are equal.

If I remember, there is otherwise not much difference between the 2002 vs. 2011 models.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Thank you for the information.

The "tabs" on my 2002 Classic seem in very good condition considering they are at least 18 years old! 
I was lead to believe the internal components that make up the 2002 model are judged by some to be of better quality than later models? But I stand to be corrected.

I was also looking at fitting a pressure gauge to the front panel, but as the chassis is made of a reasonably good thickness stainless steel, It would be more difficult to cut than the later models?


----------



## phario (May 7, 2017)

Mulligrub said:


> I was also looking at fitting a pressure gauge to the front panel, but as the chassis is made of a reasonably good thickness stainless steel, It would be more difficult to cut than the later models?


 That's right. I believe the pre-2008 models are slightly more difficult to cut, but to be honest the best person to ask is @FairRecycler who has a lot more experience. He might know the exact difference in the steel thickness. You can either cut using a cobalt-tipped holesaw or a sheet metal hole punch.

I'm not 100% sure what is the difference between the 2011 model vs. an earlier model beyond the tabs and steel, and I haven't found a clear thread that has given the year-by-year breakdown. See this thread:

https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/8626-gaggia-classic-versionsmodels/?do=embed

I think the smaller solenoids were introduced when Philips took over in 2009, but most people regard any change before 2015 as "not a big deal".

The main change was in 2015 and then once again in 2018-19'.

I regard the 2011 badge more attractive than the 2002 version you have that might be rubbed out. The 2011 badge can also be replaced (£20 for some plastic!!). Again, really small differences.

I'm not sure which one fetches more on the used market.


----------



## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Hi,

@phario thanks for mentioning me here.

@Mulligrub

The thickness is the same 1.2mm but pre 2009 models (from Italy) are made of a better stainless steel. It is much more sturdy than the Romanian built ones. On the other hand the newer ones are magnetisable, that comes handy if you have a magnetic stopwatch 

Cheap holesaws will give up half way through, even if the manufacturer mentions stainless steel in the description.

I would highly recommend a hole punch (around £20 online, depending on the diameter), but you will still need a decent 1/2 ratchet or would rather recommend a 1/2 T bar with an extension tube on it.

I do sell pressure gauge kits, and I offer a hole punch "hire" service in addition, as most people would never use that tool again, so it makes sense to borrow one.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Thought I would update the thread. I've finally finished my Gaggia Classic 2002 project, have had a couple of diversions along the way in the form of playing with a G105 lever machine.

I had trouble cutting a hole in the front panel for the pressure gauge, very hard to get enough leverage on the tee bar to turn the hole punch. Thankfully @FairRecycler came to the rescue and all was sorted, brilliant service from Peter.

The @MrShades PID fitted easily, the instructions are first class, in fact I really enjoyed the whole experience learned a fair bit. I've got the machine switched on set brew and steam temperatures, run the auto-tune, and everything seems to be okay. The PID is showing a steady 93 degrees on standby.


----------



## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> Thought I would update the thread. I've finally finished my Gaggia Classic 2002 project, have had a couple of diversions along the way in the form of playing with a G105 lever machine.
> 
> I had trouble cutting a hole in the front panel for the pressure gauge, very hard to get enough leverage on the tee bar to turn the hole punch. Thankfully @FairRecycler came to the rescue and all was sorted, brilliant service from Peter.
> 
> ...


 Well Done Champion! And Happy Christmas


----------



## HDAV (Dec 28, 2012)

Looks great I'm toying with doing something similar, interested in your thoughts once you have used it a bit more gutted I missed the mr shades sale stock on the pid.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Well Done Champion! And Happy Christmas


 Cheers Neil. Going to road test it tomorrow🤞All the best for 2021.


----------



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

HDAV said:


> Looks great I'm toying with doing something similar, interested in your thoughts once you have used it a bit more gutted I missed the mr shades sale stock on the pid.


 Yes I'll update this post and let you know my thoughts on the PID. I bought my kit early October, and only started fitting it on Saturday. Took me 5/6 hours or so in 3 sessions just taking my time. I found as suggested by @MrShades it's better to remove or loosen the bolts holding the boiler.

A great kit with a very comprehensive manual.


----------

