# Nuova Simonelli Personal 1



## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Picked this up off eBay. It's a non runner, missing an element, autofill probe which I've found in a box of spares and as far as I can see, no safety thermostat which is usually mounted on the boiler.

From some cursory research on eBay, looks like this should be cabled to the pressurestat, which is nearby. Opening the pressurestat up shows a vacant terminal where this might go. However, I'm not 100%, so any thoughts and guidance would be appreciated.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

should be able to work it out from here http://www.nuovadistribution.com/images/manuals%20pdf/mac2000_personal_1groups_manual.pdf

but be careful


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

jimbojohn55 said:


> should be able to work it out from here http://www.nuovadistribution.com/images/manuals%20pdf/mac2000_personal_1groups_manual.pdf
> 
> but be careful


Oooh, I love cryptic clues!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Right.

Changed the fuse and plugged it in to see if it'd power up. First try, pump immediately kicked in and it's trying to fill. Good start, it's got power and seems to go into a startup cycle ok. Not being connected to any water etc yet, I quickly shut it down and it's unplugged again. List of parts made for the refurb, will post updates of progress if anyone is interested.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

Please do

post.

EDIT: These machines are built to last. There are quite a few threads online on refurbishing MAC2000 and the difference between the two is minuscule.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

John Yossarian said:


> Please do
> 
> post.
> 
> EDIT: These machines are built to last. There are quite a few threads online on refurbishing MAC2000 and the difference between the two is minuscule.


Hi mate. Yes, I've essentially been working from the MAC2000 schematics - seem to be a few minor differences in layout, but agreed almost 100% the same other than that. I was fortunate enough to inherit a large box of spares someone had bought from Nuova Ricambi for the machine with it, so will change out every o-ring, gasket and seal I can get at!!!

So far, I've got it down to the chassis, just trying to draw out a plumbing plan to help me put it back together later. Basic plan is full strip, repair/respray the chassis, rebuild, respray the body, enjoy coffee. Simple eh.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

So far, it looks to me as though this machine has been maintained, but not particularly loved. More a case of keeping it working rather than keeping it in top shape. The boiler is relatively scale free inside. When I got it, there was a lot of loose crap in there, but a quick descale, force dry and vacuum and it seems alright. You can see the drain cup here too, that was full of crap but will clean up nice with a wire wheel and elbow grease. No need to change I figure since it's intact. The grouphead mounting plate, which might have a more formal name, I have no idea, is corroded - assume this could be down to leaks or could be down to two different metals put together, or both. In any case, it'll be off with the group head, out with the plate, rust converter and respray. You can also see here the shitty old shower screen - new one is in the parts box, and the back of the boiler with the plumbing (externally at least) looking pretty decent. SO far so good on the strip down. More to follow.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Stripped most of the plumbing off the boiler now. Encouragingly, there's no sign of furring or scale in any pipework and everything SEEMS intact. The grouphead/boiler gasket was utterly knackered - baked on to a shattered, plasticky residue I've removed. The group gasket was also rooted, together with the thin backing gasket that sits behind it. Doesn't seem to be any way to remove the shower head block......three blank holes in it have me suspecting a special tool might be required, but it doesn't really need removing, just cleaning. A few last pics for today.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

spoxehub said:


> Stripped most of the plumbing off the boiler now. Encouragingly, there's no sign of furring or scale in any pipework and everything SEEMS intact. The grouphead/boiler gasket was utterly knackered - baked on to a shattered, plasticky residue I've removed. The group gasket was also rooted, together with the thin backing gasket that sits behind it. Doesn't seem to be any way to remove the shower head block......three blank holes in it have me suspecting a special tool might be required, but it doesn't really need removing, just cleaning. A few last pics for today.
> 
> View attachment 31603
> View attachment 31604
> ...


It seems coming out nicely.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Turning to the electrics again briefly, I think I've worked out the safety thermostat issue. It's missing from the machine, simply looks like it's been removed at some point and the power goes direct from the pressurestat to the element with no safety in place.

TE on the diagram attached has no definition in the manual but certainly LOOKS like it ought to be the safety thermostat, therefore is seems a simple case of wiring this in between the pressurestat and the element on a new loop I can make up to kill the current in the event of a boiler overheat.

Does this sound logical to you?

Interestingly, the element supplied with it had exploded. I'm wondering if the missing safety might have been its demise.....


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

I think you are right. The diagram is pretty clear on that. Whether you could find the original specifications or you could buy a similar one is a different story. There are quite a few places that stock Nuova Simonelli parts. I am sure someone here could suggest a place to go to. It should not be terribly expensive either. Is there anything in the box full of spare parts?


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

The boiler overheat thermostat is a fairly common part. You just have to ensure that the new one is thin enough & the right length to fit inside the tube on the element.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> The boiler overheat thermostat is a fairly common part. You just have to ensure that the new one is thin enough & the right length to fit inside the tube on the element.


This one sits on the side of the boiler with two screws, not in the element. It's a contact thermostat.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Even easier to replace !


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> Even easier to replace !


Yep! Got it worked out now. Going to fit a new pressurestat and fit the safety thermo in line on the neutral line as per the diagram. Don't think it actually makes too much difference so long as it's capable of cutting the current to the element, but nevertheless I'll follow the original diagram layout.

Spent my Friday night polishing and cleaning all the plumbing.....I know how to live.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Smearing some thermal heatsink paste onto the base of the overheat 'stat makes it more efficient.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> Smearing some thermal heatsink paste onto the base of the overheat 'stat makes it more efficient.


Yeah I did think about that. Pretty sure I've got some lying about somewhere.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Thought I'd better put up a little update. Cleaned all the plumbing and shined it up, chassis largely repainted and rust treated. Parts have arrived in the main, couple of small fittings required to finish things off but with a bit of rewiring I should be able to test run the machine over the weekend.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

Looks great!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Hey thanks John, much appreciated.

So today I installed the new autofill probe, completed the new wiring and put the machine onto a temporary water supply to run it up. A little success and a little disappointment!

Filled on first cycle, water level looked a little low so adjusted the autofill probe, no worries. Cycled the pump again, all good. Boiler gets hot FAST with the new element - manual refers to 15 minutes up to temp, this took about 9, group head nice and hot, steam power good, looks like we're good.

Then the disappointment. Pushed the controls to flow water through the group and......nothing. Pump runs, gauge shows pressure, but nothing from the group. Turn everything off, whip out the multimeter and have a look at the solenoids. Group solenoid checks out ok. But the 2 way solenoid on the boiler......that's screwed.

Decided to order two new solenoids as they're both originals, might as well eliminate and modernise.

For those playing along at home, so far the machine has cost me;

Purchase £41

Pickup £14

Parts £204

Paint & polish £28

Running total £287 which is still pretty much a bargain for a prosumer machine I reckon! If I can get it totally sorted, plumbed in and squared away under £500 I reckon I've done pretty well.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

When fitting the 2 way solenoid valve, check that the body is facing in the right direction: There should be an arrow mark it, indicating the water flow.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> When fitting the 2 way solenoid valve, check that the body is facing in the right direction: There should be an arrow mark it, indicating the water flow.


Thanks for the tip.

It's always simple stuff like that which trips up the rank amateur I'm sure!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Small update.

It's alive. Too much to post now, knackered after chasing wires, plumbing and water leaks. Will fill you in tomorrow.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

spoxehub said:


> Small update.
> 
> It's alive. Too much to post now, knackered after chasing wires, plumbing and water leaks. Will fill you in tomorrow.


Congrats.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

ashcroc said:


> Congrats.


Thanks. Monumental pain in the arse. Persistence pays off it seems.....!


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

spoxehub said:


> Thanks. Monumental pain in the arse. Persistence pays off it seems.....!


The pain has paid off







. No pain, no gain is what people say.

I could only imagine the relief after the last time you switched it on and the water came out from the group.









How was the first shot?

BTW forgot to ask, where are the pics?


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

OK where was I......ah yes.

IT LIVES!

Well as you'd expect, a few teething problems;

1. Had to remove the hot water wand and blank off the boiler outlet. A fitting was broken, it's not available in the UK, though Espresso Solutions are trying to source for me, and I've got it on back order from the US.

2. The sight glass fittings leak like a sieve, even if you PTFE wrap them like a mummy and swing off them with a wrench. I suspect shitty pipe interface at the joint.

3. Autofill solenoid which I replaced has an inlet leak. More PTFE required and a reinstall.

4. Flow meter outlet leaks. Same as above.

Now. About that first shot. Well the machine came with two portafilters, a single spout and a double. Using the single, water pisses out of the sides and down into the cup. The double has a similar effect.....so I tried the bottomless PF from my Gaggia Classic, and that worked A LITTLE better. But to be honest, although I replaced the group seal and back gasket, I think there are some remaining issues in the group head. So I'm going to demount it and re-descale and clean. The group seal I fitted was supplied with the machine, and though new, is a little old. I'll probably stick a silicone one in asap.

So;

1. The shot was terrible.

2. Steam pressure is excellent and steaming milk is easy.

More positively, the pump must be in good nick because on firing the machine up, the water pressure is bang in the green around 9 bar, and the boiler pressure registers solid green too at around 1.5. Happy days.

In aesthetic news, I've polished all the steel panels, they look decent. The plastic panels and two painted steel panels (originally red) were horrible though. I sanded them all back and have sprayed them with three coats of primer, then another three coats of metallic copper enamel paint. These aren't mounted on the machine yet, going to wait until I sort a few of those leaks etc.

Will grab some pics later.


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

Great work here, good perseverance! Sounds like you've got through the worst of it now, hope you get the rest sorted smoothly


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

jlarkin said:


> Great work here, good perseverance! Sounds like you've got through the worst of it now, hope you get the rest sorted smoothly


Thanks!

I left out the bit about accidentally pulling a live out of the pressurestat, it hitting the boiler and me taking out my downstairs sockets AND central heating boiler. Decided to gloss over that.


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

spoxehub said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I left out the bit about accidentally pulling a live out of the pressurestat, it hitting the boiler and me taking out my downstairs sockets AND central heating boiler. Decided to gloss over that.


Yeah best not to mention that ;-)


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Sorry for lack of pics, just chasing out a last couple of leaks then will get a full set up.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

For the sight glass I know espresso solutions have the glass for Appia and I doubt it would be much different (I well might be wrong). Do you have seal for that? When I opened mine there were o-rings on both sides.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

John Yossarian said:


> For the sight glass I know espresso solutions have the glass for Appia and I doubt it would be much different (I well might be wrong). Do you have seal for that? When I opened mine there were o-rings on both sides.


Yes mate, sounds the same. I suspect at least one o-ring is unseated. I'm going to drain the boiler, pull the sight glass, sort the o-rings and retape it all.

EDIT: Hmm... looking at the parts diagram, there are TWO o-rings showing either end on a Mac 2000 sight glass......wonder if that's my problem.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

The o-rings are a compression fit by screwing S146 onto S106 (but not too tight)

The only Teflon tape needed is S146 to whatever connector....


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> The o-rings are a compression fit by screwing S146 onto S106 (but not too tight)
> 
> The only Teflon tape needed is S146 to whatever connector....


Correct.


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

Quick question really. Where's best to buy parts from in the uk? I've just got hold of an oscar and could do with a few spares


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

joey24dirt said:


> Quick question really. Where's best to buy parts from in the uk? I've just got hold of an oscar and could do with a few spares


I would say Espresso Solutions, but depends on the part. If it's valves, fittings etc then sure, but they can be beaten on price by Happy Donkey, Espresso Shop etc for consumables like group seals, shower screens and so on. Find the part number, search that, double check in a couple of other places. Job done!

Also, Espresso Solutions have a flat rate - but brilliant next day - delivery of £7.20 via DPD. Worth bearing in mind if you're ordering only a few cheap bits.

For clarity, I have no association with ES, have just found them responsive and easy to deal with.

EDIT: I'd also say one of the things I've learned working on this machine (which has been a huge step up from fiddling with the Gaggia....!) is that there are so many common parts, it's made no difference that the machine is 20 years old or something. I'd encourage anyone to give it a bash!


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

spoxehub said:


> I would say Espresso Solutions, but depends on the part. If it's valves, fittings etc then sure, but they can be beaten on price by Happy Donkey, Espresso Shop etc for consumables like group seals, shower screens and so on. Find the part number, search that, double check in a couple of other places. Job done!
> 
> Also, Espresso Solutions have a flat rate - but brilliant next day - delivery of £7.20 via DPD. Worth bearing in mind if you're ordering only a few cheap bits.
> 
> For clarity, I have no association with ES, have just found them responsive and easy to deal with.


Thank you. I've ordered from ES before and they are pretty good. Yeah I'm wondering about new steam arms and possibly a few extras. I need to tear the machine down to see what's up first.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Today's update.

I've mounted the control panel back onto the body it fits to, just for ease of keeping it in one place while I test things more. All the leaks are fixed now, had one minor issue when the autofill solenoid plug fell to bits, but I sorted that easy enough. You'll note that I've removed the hot water wand, and blanked off the water outlet from the boiler. I used a gasket inside the parallel threaded blank to seal it off. You might remember from above that one part of the hot water wand was broken, I can't get the part for a while, and since I'm not likely to use the hot water much, seemed like a decent compromise for now. But I will put it back in time.

Also pictured the working pressure and a couple of general shots. I'll be putting the body work on over the weekend, so will post again once it's complete.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Got home from work handy and finished it off. Just for reference, here's what it looked like before, pics from the eBay auction because I was obviously too excited to take any....


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)




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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)




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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)




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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Looking good.


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## Missy (Mar 9, 2016)

Love the copper, it really sets off the retro look of the machine. It's only when you see the machine next to a person you realise just how big it is! Looks like a beautiful restoration.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

ashcroc said:


> Looking good.


Thanks!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Missy said:


> Love the copper, it really sets off the retro look of the machine. It's only when you see the machine next to a person you realise just how big it is! Looks like a beautiful restoration.


Aye.....it's a right beast. Didn't quite appreciate the scale of it myself at first! I reckon it also weighs.....oooooo......maybe 800 tonnes? There or thereabouts anyway.

I have a lot of copper stuff in the kitchen, so picked it to go with all that. But you're quite right, completely accidentally, it really works with the retro look. About a week of steady priming and painting to get it done, but was well worth it I think. I ran all the steel through the dishwasher, then gave it a Pledge once I'd done fitting all the panels to get rid of the fingerprints etc.

Now it's in place I just need to replumb it and it'll be DONE.


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## Jim bean (Aug 16, 2014)

sweet as mate i really like the copper too looks fantastic


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

Are the sides plastic? I'm trying to decide what to do with my Oscar. Last plastic thing I painted was an IKEA play kitchen and the kids soon chipped all the paint off


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Jim bean said:


> sweet as mate i really like the copper too looks fantastic


Thanks mate! As you can see, plumbing and paint is more my game, hence this project going well and the grinder being a mystery to me!!!!!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

joey24dirt said:


> Are the sides plastic? I'm trying to decide what to do with my Oscar. Last plastic thing I painted was an IKEA play kitchen and the kids soon
> 
> chipped all the paint off


Yes mate, plastic. I sanded them back to smooth them off, 3 coats of plastic primer then hit them with 3 coats of copper metallic enamel Rust-o-leum.

Edit: automotive plastic lacquer will stop the chips or at least slow them down.


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

Great stuff. Looks amazing


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## Dumnorix (Dec 29, 2017)

I have been following this thread and just wanted to say I think you have done an amazing job. I can imagine knowing you have carried out all the restoration yourself makes the end result even more pleasurable.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

Great job! Time to remove the WIP from the signature







.

The rewarding experience after finishing a job like this can be overwhelming. I remember my first project, taking my Bezzera down to the last nut and cleaning everything including solenoids. The first time I made a shot was historical moment in my life







.

Enjoy the good stuff!

You never mentioned it but you must have a very patient better half.







My wife is very supportive but if I stall the work she would be the first to remind me to keep on going.

Cheers,

John


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

John Yossarian said:


> Great job! Time to remove the WIP from the signature
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ha! Good point, I'll change that!

My partner is very patient. But just not with me! Mind you I'm in the middle of a whole host of other house renovating crap at the minute, so squeezed this in on evenings, mostly.


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## lake_m (Feb 4, 2017)

Fantastic restoration and well done. It looks amazing. Have you tried a coffee from it yet?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

10 out of 10 pimping the sides in copper spray- like the 70s vibe


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

lake_m said:


> Fantastic restoration and well done. It looks amazing. Have you tried a coffee from it yet?


Aye, pulled a VERY quick shot from it, but the grinder is still set for the Gaggia and I didn't bother fiddling with it yet. Works a treat, but tasted pretty grim!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

jimbojohn55 said:


> 10 out of 10 pimping the sides in copper spray- like the 70s vibe


Thanks. It goes a treat with my flares, Ford Cortina and saucy banter.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

I'll do a bit more of a wrap up, problems I encountered etc at some point, but just to share a final "well, after all that....." moment;

Plumbing it in earlier, I drilled through the water pipe behind the kitchen cabinets. Traced it with my genny, but some bright spark put a dead spur off to one side I put down to interference from the nearby sockets.....hahahahahahahaaaaaa mad five minutes of drama.

Ah well.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Well, something electrical has just let go.

The hit the brew button, pump started, then stopped and a smell of burning electrics came from the machine. It's still powering up and heating, so I figure maybe the pump motor has cacked it or a fuse. Will get it fixed and report back.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Right. Got the old screwdriver on the pump fan and it moves, pump motor not seized. So on the basis that the pump wasn't operating on the volumetric switches, thought I'd drain a bit of water out of the boiler to see if the pump would kick in on the autofill instead.

Also a no.

Conclusion: pump probably ok, just not getting any power. Opened up the electronics, powered her up, relay's are kicking in on operating the switches, but still no power. Powered down, pulled the fuses, lo and behold x1 15A 250V fuse found blown.

Easy to replace, question is, I suppose, why. Could be aged - never replaced at refurb and I suspect these are all original. Could be another fault, and only one way to find out.

Replacements on order, will report back.


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

You're the same as me. Yeah it's a blown fuse, but why has it blown haha. I would be the same when I was fixing diggers. Customer was always pleased it was a blown fuse but I was never happy with that


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

joey24dirt said:


> You're the same as me. Yeah it's a blown fuse, but why has it blown haha. I would be the same when I was fixing diggers. Customer was always pleased it was a blown fuse but I was never happy with that


Hahaha, yeah mate! Haven't been able to nail down WHY the fuse blew, but replaced all of them anyway with new and so far so good.

Main thing is, I can make coffee again!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Well. Everything checks out normal electrically when tested. I'm going to put this down to the fuse being 20 years old. Onwards!


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Bugger. Pump cut out again mid flow, fuse gone again.

i can only conclude that the pump motor is pulling too many amps and blowing the fuse out. Suppose I'll have to strip the pump and see what's what.

Anyine git any thiughts?


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

spoxehub said:


> Bugger. Pump cut out again mid flow, fuse gone again.
> 
> i can only conclude that the pump motor is pulling too many amps and blowing the fuse out. Suppose I'll have to strip the pump and see what's what.
> 
> Anyine git any thiughts?


Oh man that sucks. Should just be an ulka pump if the same as my Oscar? Or is it bigger for your machine? If it's an ulka I don't think there's much you can do other than replace. If it's as old as the fuses were then I dare say it's time  it's done it's fair share.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Its a rotary pump on this machine mate, bit bigger than the Oscar!

Since the flow is alright I reckon it can only be the motor. Happy Donkey sell a replacement for about £60 which isn't bad.


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

spoxehub said:


> Its a rotary pump on this machine mate, bit bigger than the Oscar!
> 
> Since the flow is alright I reckon it can only be the motor. Happy Donkey sell a replacement for about £60 which isn't bad.


I had a look back through the photos and clicked the pump lol. Yeah £60 is ok, and considering what the machine cost you so far is even better 

Those copper panels holding up ok? I'm debating on a stainless steel case for mine, but I don't have anything for bending sheet steel.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

joey24dirt said:


> I had a look back through the photos and clicked the pump lol. Yeah £60 is ok, and considering what the machine cost you so far is even better
> 
> Those copper panels holding up ok? I'm debating on a stainless steel case for mine, but I don't have anything for bending sheet steel.


Yeah, paint is holding up ok. With hindsight, I'd have got a better finish with filler primer instead of just primer base, but it's not a big deal. The panels are easily removed so I can flat them down again and redo the paint easy enough, so since I'll be stripping the case to get the pump out, might give them another going over to try and get a higher gloss finish.

I can imagine making a case for the Oscar would be a pain without the right gear, unless you go for a total redesign and remake the case to look completely different with flat panels and angles?


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

spoxehub said:


> Yeah, paint is holding up ok. With hindsight, I'd have got a better finish with filler primer instead of just primer base, but it's not a big deal. The panels are easily removed so I can flat them down again and redo the paint easy enough, so since I'll be stripping the case to get the pump out, might give them another going over to try and get a higher gloss finish.
> 
> I can imagine making a case for the Oscar would be a pain without the right gear, unless you go for a total redesign and remake the case to look completely different with flat panels and angles?


I have something in mind....










We use these all the time at work and can get specific sizes. Perfect side access panel also haha. The beauty of the NS machines is they are build into a frame so I dare say carcass transferring should be easy


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

Right.

Got the motor out and it runs perfect. No bearing noise, instant spin up, quiet as a mouse.

Reaching inside and turning the pump shaft though, THAT has some decent resistance to it. It doesn't FEEL like a bearing gone, just feels a bit stiff. Could be the bearing.....could be the mechanical seal.....could be the vanes have worn out. Could be lots of things I suppose.

Just one question for the masses - under normal circumstances, if one were to rotate the pump shaft by hand on a new pump, would it be basically resistance free? If so, I suspect pump replacement required rather than motor.

I could just replace both the motor AND the pump, but y'know.....

EDIT: I should say, when the machine does work, I get good pressures all round on the gauge (of course, the gauge is old so that could be lying too...!), so the pump is definitely capable of working, just this odd intermittent fault. The last time it failed, I replaced the fuse and got two coffees out of it before it went again. This issue raised it's head after the last time I cleaned the group head with the blind basket....couldn't be the capacitor could it? @DavecUK @espressotechno any thoughts?


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

If you can turn the pumphead shaft easily by hand (there's always a little resistance) then it's OK. If the shaft is stiff to turn then it's seizing up:Time to fit a new pumphead, as overhauling one is seldom successful.

If the pumphead is OK then fitting a new capacitor may solve the problem.

IF fitting a new pumphead, always fit a new capacitor at the same time.

(Pump motors tend to "last forever" as they have thermal overload cutouts fitted.)


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> If you can turn the pumphead shaft easily by hand (there's always a little resistance) then it's OK. If the shaft is stiff to turn then it's seizing up:Time to fit a new pumphead, as overhauling one is seldom successful.
> 
> If the pumphead is OK then fitting a new capacitor may solve the problem.
> 
> ...


Roger that, thanks.

Given that the pump head is definitely stiffer than easy resistance - it's jerky and you have to put some effort in - I'll go with pump head and capacitor as you advise.

Thanks for the assist!


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

New pumps might be a bit stiffer than people would expect....I have a spare one brand new and it's fairly stiff to turn (of course never been used). I chose it from a box of 10 or 15 and they were all about the same. After use, i would expect them to be easier to turn. Usually when a pump goes bad, either the pressure gauge flickers, there is noise and vibration, sometimes screeching and often leaking. if none of these have happened, it's likely not the pump.

I second what's said about the motor, they pretty much last for ever unless water gets into the bearings, or the capacitor fails.


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

DavecUK said:


> New pumps might be a bit stiffer than people would expect....I have a spare one brand new and it's fairly stiff to turn (of course never been used). I chose it from a box of 10 or 15 and they were all about the same. After use, i would expect them to be easier to turn. Usually when a pump goes bad, either the pressure gauge flickers, there is noise and vibration, sometimes screeching and often leaking. if none of these have happened, it's likely not the pump.
> 
> I second what's said about the motor, they pretty much last for ever unless water gets into the bearings, or the capacitor fails.


Thanks for that. Without getting into too much detail, I've got a lot of industrial experience of rotary vane pumps and whilst it's marginal, I'm confident this one is toast based on reading threads here of what to expect. It's just got too much resistence. There's stiff, and there's STIFF. The best way to decribe it would be the resistence isn't linear - it turns ok, then stiffens up a lot, then frees off, then stiffens.

I did notice the noise of the pump had changed of late, the tone altering during cycling. Hadn't looked at the gauge so can't confirm any flickering, but your comment about the noise and vibration rings true.

Noted on the motor, I've ordered a capacitor from Amazon as per @espressotechno post, plus a new pump body from Happy Donkey.

I appreciate you guys taking the time to lend me your experience.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Noticed that the steam pressure reading was around 1.3 bar.

Reducing it to 1.0 bar may give a sweeter brew....


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## spoxehub (Oct 24, 2014)

espressotechno said:


> Noticed that the steam pressure reading was around 1.3 bar.
> 
> Reducing it to 1.0 bar may give a sweeter brew....


Fair call.

First up, I think it's all sorted on the pump front now. Replaced the capacitor and pump head as suggested - quieter, smoother, doesn't blow the fuse, happy days.

It would appear, however, that whatever I've done in uncoupling the gauge and re coupling it has knackered the water pressure side. It doesn't zero now, and when brewing shoots to over 10 bar. I don't think I've got 10 bar for one second, but perhaps I need to adjust something.....OR the gauge has finally had it too.

Air in the gauge line make any difference?


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