# Sparating valves/pins to change seals



## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Has anyone got any foolproof methods of doint this without sheering? I remember managing it a long time ago but forget what method I used and I tried a spare yesterday very carefully and it still sheered.

I'm thinking that as I have the group apart from cleaning it all then I might as well change all the seals but I don't want to break the parts. Does heating work?

Thanks

Dan


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

dan1502 said:


> Has anyone got any foolproof methods of doint this without sheering? I remember managing it a long time ago but forget what method I used and I tried a spare yesterday very carefully and it still sheered.
> 
> I'm thinking that as I have the group apart from cleaning it all then I might as well change all the seals but I don't want to break the parts. Does heating work?
> 
> ...


Some of the b$%^s use threadlocker on them, so even when new they shear. Usually before fitting them, I unscrew the pins lube and put them back so I can get them off again to change the seals. Sometimes if they are intractible, the old seal can be removed (cut it with a sharp blade) and the new one eased over the pin.....cos it's still flexible.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Thanks Dave. It puts me off trying a bit especially as they're mostly not brass (stainless I presume) so more difficult to replace.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Done - Phew! I just managed to undo five of the blighters. Two spares first then the three from the machine. In case it helps anyone else, I soaked them in WD40, gripped the round section in a vice with protectors with the height protruding at a hight where I painfully slowly and carfully spin the spanner horizontally whilst resting on the vice to reduce risk of twisting and spraying a touch more WD40 as I went.

Now to order some seals. I might just get the kit from BB but I don't need a few of the bits it contains.


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## jpaul__ (Feb 19, 2016)

I was not sure what you meant by pins, but for anti-vac valves, I cooled the brass valve before taking it out of the copper boiler (freezer block and air spray), maybe I then applied more torque than I had done before cooling, but it came out.

Rather than wd40 I would use a penetrating spray like plus gas (which I normally use on car bolts)


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

The E61 pins which contact the cam (and are also used in joystick taps). I take your point on plus gas. WD40 is all I had to hand though I have also since read again that heat applied to the pin (which is the female part) can help. I have since done some more as above but without WD40 and they were fine but being very careful and slow and keeping the twisting action perpendicular seems to be key.


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