# Options for removing rusted bolts on a boiler: what are the extreme options?



## phario (May 7, 2017)

This is a 2003 Gaggia Evolution that doesn't seem to have been cleaned for the last 17 years. I know. Disgusting. There are currently 3 rounded-off hex slots and 1 non-rounded off slot with all 4 pretty much stuck.









As we know, this is a common issue, and there are many threads on this:

[1] https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/23943-stuck-bolts-on-gaggia-classic-boiler/

[2] https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/46885-boiler-bolts-stuck/

This video pretty much covers all the options: 




Things I've tried:



Penetrant oils like WD40 and PB Blaster


Using a standard ratchet on a longer arm (would only work for the non-rounded off hex bolt)


Vice grips to try and rotate it out


Hammering it to break the initial lock


Dremel a slot for a flat-head.


Dremeling a slot is not so easy because the flathead size that would span the bolt's head is actually quite large. I have thought about dremeling the head off with a cutting disc, but this seems not as easy as it might sound. You would have to work quite long and carefully to avoid nicking the boiler surface with the cutting blade. I have thought about drilling through the head with a drill bit like at 7:20 in this video. But this is not so easy. You would either need a 90 degree drill attachment or a very long drill bit.

I would prefer not to buy excessive tools. So I don't have things like a blow torch.

Any thoughts?


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## Skizz (Feb 10, 2020)

I'd probably try soaking it in boiling water for a few minutes, then really crank some decent size molegrips onto the bolt-heads - as in, two-handed click to lock - and see if anything shifts.

Even if the head shears you can then try tapping stanley knife blades in around the edge to separate the two halves. You'll have more of the bolt shank to work with then, and possibly better access for descaler to shift any scale that's binding the thread. Try and get that manifold off first though (is it an OPV?) as you'll have more room to work.

I'm sure others are thinking this over as well so maybe hang fire and see if anyone else has better ideas first


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## Agentb (Feb 11, 2017)

I think i'd go the Torx road of this https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/49880-chewed-up-a-boiler-bolt-baby/?tab=comments#comment-717314

good luck! 👍


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

@Agentb interesting idea.

@Skizz part of the problem is that I don't have a great place to clamp the darn boiler.

I have temporarily placed it back into the machine so. I'm just gathering ideas for the next time it's attempted.

In practice though for the clamping I guess the best thing would be to use a jigsaw to cut out a hole in a wooden board where the grouphead would fit and then bolt it in.

Alternatively buy a bench vise or similar.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I bought a cheap heavy duty vice a year ago.

Pretty basic but it's well made.

You need to make sure the jaws open wide enough to fit the grouphead diameter. I bought the largest 6" one cost £30, now it's £35.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Engineers-Vice-Vise-Swivel-Base-Workshop-Clamp-Jaw-Work-Bench-Table/152896247096?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I was looking to buy an old Record one but even really crap ones hold their price.


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

I've seen people use blow torches on stubborn bolts... not sure if that's a bit much though 😅


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## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

Following a few days of WD40 or similar use a compressor driven air-wrench on low torque setting so the vibration/hammer effect works on it. More WD 40 in between attempt's. Also try alternating with the tightening rotation using same low torque setting.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

Id use Plus Gas penetrating spray rather than wd40. It's much more effective

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

phario like a lot of us, seems to want to keep prices down and use basic tools he has to hand if possible, so unless he has a compressor and air wrench in his toolkit, guess he doesn't really want to invest!

The mole grips and torx seem a good bet.

Most fitters use GT85 as opposed to WD40 and think it's a better product


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

jj-x-ray said:


> Id use plus gas penetrating spray rather than wd40. It's much more effective
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


 Seems we posted at the same time, hence my recommendation for GT85


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

My method although I use a smaller torch.

http://tumblebones.com/product/bernzomatic-ts3000kc-self-igniting-torch-kit/


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## 2cups (May 6, 2019)

I dremmel'd the head off one of my boiler bolts that wouldn't move. The metal wasn't too difficult to cut, but as you suggest, it's a tricky operation, and I did end up causing some minor damage to the boiler alu. Even after the head was removed, the bolt required a lot of de-scaler and persuasion before I could get the two halves apart. Probably a last resort, but a workable one.


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Torx if you have a suitable sized bit


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

ratty said:


> phario like a lot of us, seems to want to keep prices down and use basic tools he has to hand if possible, so unless he has a compressor and air wrench in his toolkit, guess he doesn't really want to invest!
> 
> The mole grips and torx seem a good bet.
> 
> Most fitters use GT85 as opposed to WD40 and think it's a better product


 Ding ding! Ratty got it right. I'm having to be a bit strict about buying tools, especially as I want to keep the garage organised. I don't mind buying tools that will be used in other jobs, but there is no point in picking up a blow torch unless I have other projects in mind. In truth, this Evolution won't be used and doesn't have good resell value (less than £40). The grouphead can't be recycled onto a Classic, though I think the boiler can (any confirmations?).

For the moment, I've put it back in and am leaving it be; maybe in the future I'll have the proper tools (bench vice, torx heads, etc.) to give a proper go.



2cups said:


> I dremmel'd the head off one of my boiler bolts that wouldn't move. The metal wasn't too difficult to cut, but as you suggest, it's a tricky operation, and I did end up causing some minor damage to the boiler alu. Even after the head was removed, the bolt required a lot of de-scaler and persuasion before I could get the two halves apart. Probably a last resort, but a workable one.


 I assume you dremeled with a cutting wheel and perpendicular to the bolt axis? (i.e. shearing the head off?).


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Boiler is the same - steam valve probably is (if the knob is on the right of the machine akin to the Classic). If it has the SPV you would have to block that off but that's no biggie.


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## 2cups (May 6, 2019)

phario said:


> I assume you dremeled with a cutting wheel and perpendicular to the bolt axis? (i.e. shearing the head off?).


 That's right, sheared the bolt head using a standard cutting wheel that came with the Dremmel.


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## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

ratty said:


> phario like a lot of us, seems to want to keep prices down and use basic tools he has to hand if possible, so unless he has a compressor and air wrench in his toolkit, guess he doesn't really want to invest!
> 
> The mole grips and torx seem a good bet.
> 
> Most fitters use GT85 as opposed to WD40 and think it's a better product


 Agreed on that ratty, same here. I just go to my local garage or mate across the road who has a compressor and tools!

Me buy one? Nah, to tight......se me!😄


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Funnily enough I have a compressor and was looking to buy some air tools but too expensive for even what looks like old used knackered ones!

If anyone knows of a cheapish half decent brand I may pursue further?


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## HaroldP (May 22, 2020)

ratty said:


> Funnily enough I have a compressor and was looking to buy some air tools but too expensive for even what looks like old used knackered ones!
> 
> If anyone knows of a cheapish half decent brand I may pursue further?


 Have you looked at RDG catalouge? They stock some airtools. https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/AIR_EVERYTHING_ELSE.html

My 2nd hand knowledge of the matter from friends was it was a fair amount of upkeep.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

I'm wondering if you could Dremel two flat sides at opposite points on the outer side of the bolt to get more purchase with mole grips.


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## Blue_Cafe (Jun 22, 2020)

The bolt has bonded to the boiler. (Galvanic corrosion).

I'd chisel the bolts off, then, once its all split apart, you can get a better purchase on the bolt shank with a pair of mole grips.

That still may not work however, but you can drill out the remaining bolt and either retap or use a thread saver.

Also, you could ask a local shop to tack weld an old allen key shank into them


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