# power cord connector type



## AlanSky (Dec 29, 2020)

Hey wonderfull people, does anyone know what the term is for the connection type is on the mara x? I am trying to position it closer in to the wall by buying a dogleg connection, the provided cord is straight and i think it may be possible to have a power cord that allows it to be closer to the wall. Has anyone else done this?

Thanks in advance

Al


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## Waitforme (Dec 13, 2020)

Did this on my Bianca last week , Amazon is your friend 👍

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002DWA8IW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## AlanSky (Dec 29, 2020)

Waitforme said:


> Did this on my Bianca last week , Amazon is your friend 👍
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002DWA8IW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


 Thank you, that is exactly what i was looking for


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## Doram (Oct 12, 2012)

AlanSky said:


> does anyone know what the term is for the connection type is on the mara x?


 I think in the UK it is known as a kettle lead or computer power cable.


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

As @Waitforme has already done this, it will most likely be correct (just allowing for model variation, age variation) but otherwise it's necessary to check as there are two versions of this connector.

There's the "hot" one (c15 c16) which is often for higher power loads where heat will result (such as kettles, ...wait for the irony) which has a notch out of the space between the two parallel connectors, and the other version (c13 c14) which is often used on lower power demands such as computers that don't generate as much heat (and is almost universally known as a kettle lead.... so there's the irony). The hot version should fit either port, the non-hot version will only fit the port designed for it, that way if the appliance is deemed by the manufacturer as needing the "hot" one you cannot inadvertently over-load the lead (which would be fuse protected anyway).

Wikipedia in case you want to visually compare them https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C13/C14_coupler


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## AlanSky (Dec 29, 2020)

AndyDClements said:


> As @Waitforme has already done this, it will most likely be correct (just allowing for model variation, age variation) but otherwise it's necessary to check as there are two versions of this connector.
> 
> There's the "hot" one (c15 c16) which is often for higher power loads where heat will result (such as kettles, ...wait for the irony) which has a notch out of the space between the two parallel connectors, and the other version (c13 c14) which is often used on lower power demands such as computers that don't generate as much heat (and is almost universally known as a kettle lead.... so there's the irony). The hot version should fit either port, the non-hot version will only fit the port designed for it, that way if the appliance is deemed by the manufacturer as needing the "hot" one you cannot inadvertently over-load the lead (which would be fuse protected anyway).
> 
> Wikipedia in case you want to visually compare them https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C13/C14_coupler


 Thank you. I ordered the version that @Waitforme linked. Although it seems to be the C13 version and has a lower heat rating, will see what happens, hopefully it fits. If not I'll send it back and replace with the C15/C16


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## Alan94 (May 15, 2020)

Did you have to send it back or was it okay? I just got my MaraX and would also like to fit the machine closer to the wall.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

Alan94 said:


> Did you have to send it back or was it okay? I just got my MaraX and would also like to fit the machine closer to the wall.


 I'm not sure if the machine draws energy from both boilers simultaneously or alternates. If the former, the C13 kettle lead will be absolutely fine. The C13 has a 10amp fuse, which, if both boilers are on at the same time, it will be pushing to the limit and may blow the fuse.


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> I'm not sure if the machine draws energy from both boilers simultaneously or alternates. If the former, the C13 kettle lead will be absolutely fine. The C13 has a 10amp fuse, which, if both boilers are on at the same time, it will be pushing to the limit and may blow the fuse.


 No, It will be fine...no way will it blow the fuse on a MaraX (one heating element) or an Elizabeth.

A 10 amp fuse it good for 2400, but will actually support a continuous current draw higher than that indefinitely without blowing. Unless they are specialist fuses.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

DavecUK said:


> No, It will be fine...no way will it blow the fuse on a MaraX (one heating element) or an Elizabeth


 I understand for those machines which only have one element at a time. But what about the Bianca, as that's what this is about? If both boilers on the Bianca are on simultaneous (I'm not sure if they are, ever!) then he machine will draw 2400W approx 10amp during warm up.


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## AlanSky (Dec 29, 2020)

my C13 has been fine, never had a problem as yet (hopeful that I've not just jinxed it)


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

@MediumRoastSteam Only for a little while...it will be fine.


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

I should mention that as the power cord has a 10 amp fuse, and that fuse is there to protect the cord, there can't be a problem either.


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## Alan94 (May 15, 2020)

I thought it was about the MaraX rather than the Bianca, though someone did reply saying they did it for their Bianca. Thank you for getting back to me though. Looking forward to getting the plug.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

Alan94 said:


> I thought it was about the MaraX rather than the Bianca, though someone did reply saying they did it for their Bianca. Thank you for getting back to me though. Looking forward to getting the plug.


 For the MaraX, perfectly fine! It will never draw more than 6 amps. I use one for the Elizabeth, which never has both boilers on.

Edit: and even if both boilers were on at times, I wouldn't be a problem either, as Dave explained.


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