# Mazzer Major Auber Antics



## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Holes cut, buttons fitted. Just need to wire it up.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

urbanbumpkin said:


> Holes cut, buttons fitted. Just need to wire it up.
> 
> View attachment 25228


still need help?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Think I'm ok. It was just the wires that came loose from the contactor.

Just checking

Contactor 1

Has the following cables

Lamp

Mazzer Switch R/L1

Auber 9

Contactor 2 has

Lamp

Motor (yellow cable)

Auber 10

Mazzer switch ?its round the back of U/t1


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

It's this blue one


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Just finished wiring it up.

I re-wired the contactor based on the Mazzer wiring diagram.

The only one I'm not sure of is the blue wire to the Mazzer switch


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Plugged in, turned the Mazzer switch on.

Lamp comes on, Auber comes on (slight flicker) but when pressing any buttons nothing happens.

I can cycle through the menu on the Auber timer but the grinders not coming to life.







@coffeechap any suggestions?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Does this help?










Edit: post 150 here gives more info:

https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?19700-Mazzer-Major-Auberins-Timer-Project/page15&highlight=muiy3a.jpg


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

urbanbumpkin said:


> Plugged in, turned the Mazzer switch on.
> 
> Lamp comes on, Auber comes on (slight flicker) but when pressing any buttons nothing happens.
> 
> ...


Had exactly same problem, Clive. Power is going to timer but not the motor because it's not going to the contactor which has A1 and A2 on it. When powered, this flicks an internal switch which then allows power to reach the motor. Will dig out my notes later.


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

From the above Auberin wiring diagram, power out to the grinder (i.e. motor) via the contactor and comes from terminal 7 - see next picture.









Power out of the the Auberin from terminal 7 goes to the contactor terminal 1 - LI the top left. One thing I can't remember is whether you also run a neutral (blue) from the Auberin neutral terminal to 3 - L2 on the contactor.









@Thecatlinux - can you shed any light on this?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Hang on just got to read previous posts to see what,I've missed


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Too much information I can't work out which is which

let me try and shed some fundamental/ basic rules to your contactor

dis regarding all the other terminals except A1 and A2

if you connect one of these terminals to neutral (say A1) when you apply your control voltage to A2 the contactor will latch and away you go.

so with that said and disregarding original wiring of the original mazzer on and off control for now (I don't know what you have )

if you take the wire from A2 and connect this to terminal 7 (timer)and with a new wire connect this from terminal 8 to the now empty terminal A2 .

This should work ( you may need to remove or add a latch wire but we will worry about that later )

R

footnote

assuming from the picture supplied A1 is neutral and A2 is live .


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

OK so this then is the cct diagram revised with colour and showing connections to the timer the same as those in the JSL72 Manual pic in post 9










A bit rough and ready but this is what is needed. The old microswitch wiring etc is removed

The only assumption I have made in this is that the Mazzer on/off switch is latching not momentary


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Cheers Guys I'm out and about at the moment but I'll have a look at this when I'm back.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Ok I've done a sanity check

The Auber Timer is wired up as follows:-










7 cabled to A2 on the contactor

8 looped back to 9

9 is cabled to Contactor 1

10 is cabled to Contactor 3

I've checked the contactor and the wiring is the same as diagram that grumpy Daddy kindly provided

Except terminal 2 has a brown cable to the capacitor and a cable to the motor. Where as the Mazzer diagram has 2 cables to the motor.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

[quote=Thecatlinux;478869

if you connect one of these terminals to neutral (say A1) when you apply your control voltage to A2 the contactor will latch and away you go.

so with that said and disregarding original wiring of the original mazzer on and off control for now (I don't know what you have )

if you take the wire from A2 and connect this to terminal 7 (timer)and with a new wire connect this from terminal 8 to the now empty terminal A2 .

This should work ( you may need to remove or add a latch wire but we will worry about that later )

R

footnote

assuming from the picture supplied A1 is neutral and A2 is live .

Hi Rich

sorry for being thick. I already have a cable connected from Auber 7 to A2 on the contactor, I'm not sure what you mean


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Adding the timer should not need any changes to the motor wiring with the exception of the A1 contactor terminal to motor thermal cut out now not routing through any microswitches.

If you are still not getting the contactor to actuate, the first check would be to link contactor A1 to contactor terminal 3 thus omitting the thermal trip on the motor. (you can link to the terminal block if it is easier)

Please continue to work with everything unplugged from mains


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Adding the timer should not need any changes to the motor wiring with the exception of the A1 contactor terminal to motor thermal cut out now not routing through any microswitches.
> 
> If you are still not getting the contactor to actuate, the first check would be to link contactor A1 to contactor terminal 3 thus omitting the thermal trip on the motor.
> 
> Please continue to work with everything unplugged from mains


Still not getting anything

So you mean connect a new cable from A1 to contactor terminal 3 with all existing wiring remaining the same?

Terminal 3 already has 4 cables in so may be a bit of a squeeze.

If that's the case what do I do then? Just switch it on?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Note edit. Yes leave the wiring and add from A1 to the neutral (the terminal block connection to auber terminal 10 for example)

Once done switch on and test a timer button


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

A1 wired to Auber Timer 10. Still not getting anything.

Lamp comes on.

Auber timer comes on (a bit flickery) and I can select t1 t2, adjust timer but nothing happen when I press any of the buttons.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Do you have a multimeter?

If so select ac volts, connect between auber 7 and 10, press a button, what happens?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Just a sanity check. Is where the blue wire is going on the Mazzer switch S/L2?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Do you have a multimeter?
> 
> If so select ac volts, connect between auber 7 and 10, press a button, what happens?


Madly enough I do have one lurking round the garage. Never used it, not sure how to.

Which is volts on here?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Incoming neutral is T2

outgoing neutral is L2

Volts ac is clockwise 1 click to 600


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Sorry GD I'm not getting anything on the multi-meter(I don't think the multi meter is working). Theres a reason its been languishing in the garage


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

urbanbumpkin said:


> I've checked the contactor and the wiring is the same as diagram that grumpy Daddy kindly provided
> 
> Except terminal 2 has a brown cable to the capacitor and a cable to the motor. Where as the Mazzer diagram has 2 cables to the motor.


Would this change in wiring not have an impact of adding the timer?

I have the following from the contactor.

Contactor terminal 2.

cable to motor white

Cable to Capacitor brown

Contactor terminal 4

Cable to Motor Red

Cable to motor white

Contactor terminal 6

Cable to motor Red

Cable to capacitor Blue.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Meter Might need a battery.

If it was me I would now check all the wires are tight in their connections.

with the mains off pull each wire in turn

Following that I would temporarily put a link between the mains in live and live on the terminal block and similarly between mains in neutral and neutral on the terminal block just in case there is an issue with the switch.

I am thinking about your comment about flickering here


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

If you have not changed anything on the motor side of the contactor then providing you have not changed the position of the original wiring TO the contactor all should be well

You can test each component with temporary links.

The pic above puts power on the auber and omits the switch pressing an auber button should activate the contactor ...if not then:

Assuming you still have the first link in contactor A1 then taking the red link out of the auber A9 connection at the block and moving it to the contactor A2 connection at the block should activate the contactor


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Is the power on in your pic of the contactor?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Meter Might need a battery.
> 
> If it was me I would now check all the wires are tight in their connections.
> 
> ...


Tried pull test. Nothing coming out.

Wired up bridging wires to mains.

Auber came on immediately. Still no joy with the grinder.


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Just a thought if you've wired it the way I described the chances are you will need the hopper in place to activate the hopper micro switch

as GD is helping I will step back as too many inputs are going to be confusing for you , but do shout if I am needed

R


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

It did used to work without the hopper in place but as I've removed the original wiring it's a good call. Lol


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Tried it with the hopper on, sadly it wasn't the answer. Good shout though.

This is the current wiring on the terminal block.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Is the power on in your pic of the contactor?


Sorry GD not sure what you mean.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Assuming you still have the first link in contactor A1 then taking the red link out of the auber A9 connection at the block and moving it to the contactor A2 connection at the block should activate the contactor


Run that by me again. Sorry


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Clive your contactor should look like this









Notice l2 has three blues in it lamp, power to auber and blue from switch


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> Clive your contactor should look like this
> 
> View attachment 25247
> 
> ...


Cheers Dave.

I can't really tell from that photo.

But apart from the new wiring from the Auber timer and any wiring that was previously connected to the termination block from the contactor. I've not made any changes to the wiring of my the contactor.

The wiring of the contactor is as Grumpy Daddy's wiring diagram (apart from the capacitor mentioned earlier in the thread).


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> Clive your contactor should look like this
> 
> View attachment 25247
> 
> ...


Cheers Dave that makes more sense.

My Contact L2(3) has lamp, cable to Auber 10, wire to Mazzer switch and a yellow cable to the motor.

Interesting point from Richard about the micro switches. Is there any thing that I'm missing that could be stopping the grinder from starting up?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Just to give you the heads up this was the config pre Auber mod.










And after with the wires looped into the mains.










Any help greatly appreciated as I'm currently grinderless.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Because it looks nothing like the diagram....

The terminal block: Lets number each pair of connections starting at the mains cable end

Top

1 brown mains

2 blue mains

3 empty

4 blue going to ?

5 details please

6789

bottom

1 black loop to 5 brown to ? (Try to keep using red/brown for live and black/blue for neutral. It saves getting mixed up)

2 red loop to 4 and blue to ?

3 empty

4 red to 2 and blue to ?

5 black to 1 and brown to ?

can you fill in the blanks and or correct the above


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

so hoping to clarify old colours as seen in pic of pre auber above (looks purple but may be grey)


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thanks Grumpydaddy

Current wiring of terminal block

Top

1. Mains Brown

2. Mains Blue

3. Spare

4. Auber 10. Blue

5. Auber 9 Green/Yellow

6. Spare

7. Spare

8. Spare

9. Spare

Bottom

1. Mazzer Switch U/T1. brown.

LOOP to bottom terminal block 5.

2. Mazzer Switch behind U/T1 Blue. LOOP to Bottom terminal block 4.

3. Spare

4. Contactor (3) L2 Blue.

LOOP to bottom terminal 2.

5. Contactor (1) L1 Brown

LOOP to Bottom terminal block 1

6. Spare

7. Spare

8. Spare

9. Spare


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

OK so with the loops between 1 and 5 and between 2 and 4 the mazzer switch is bypassed otherwise the only connection that needs to be confirmed is the wire between 2 and the switch actually being on T2 of the switch

If you can confirm that there is a wire direct between contactor A2 and Auber 7 then pushing an Auber T1, T2 or Manual button should activate the contactor (do you need to come out of any programming mode perhaps??)

If not the connect contactor A1 to terminal block 4 then try again

next leave the above in place and connect terminal block 1 to contactor a2

If this still does not work then close the contactor manually to see that the motor runs

unplug every time you make connections

I will upload a pic showing checklist so far tomorrow

*EDIT: HOLD THE BODY OF THE GRINDER DOWN BEFORE ANY TEST*


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)




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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Just follow that diagram above Clive, nice one grumpy


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Thanks CC

@urbanbumpkin If you get a chance today, buy a battery for your meter..... it will make life a lot easier (assuming it works).


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> OK so with the loops between 1 and 5 and between 2 and 4 the mazzer switch is bypassed otherwise the only connection that needs to be confirmed is the wire between 2 and the switch actually being on T2 of the switch
> 
> If you can confirm that there is a wire direct between contactor A2 and Auber 7 then pushing an Auber T1, T2 or Manual button should activate the contactor (do you need to come out of any programming mode perhaps??)


Cheers GD. Just to confirm the Contactor A2 is wired directly to Auber 7

I'll try and sort out the multi meter for tonight.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> (do you need to come out of any programming mode perhaps??)
> 
> *EDIT: HOLD THE BODY OF THE GRINDER DOWN BEFORE ANY TEST*


I don't think it's in programming mode, but I'll reset and re-test.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> If not the connect contactor A1 to terminal block 4 then try again
> 
> next leave the above in place and connect terminal block 1 to contactor a2
> 
> *EDIT: HOLD THE BODY OF THE GRINDER DOWN BEFORE ANY TEST*


Got this far and the grind sprung to life when I switched on at the main.

Scared the crap out of me when it did.

Where to next?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Ps have a Working voltmeter too.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

urbanbumpkin said:


> Got this far and the grind sprung to life when I switched on at the main.
> 
> Scared the crap out of me when it did.
> 
> *Where to next*?


remove link term block4 to contactor A1

re test


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Removed block 4 to Contactor a1.

It's still working.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

OK so we now know that the circuit through the thermal trip is good (the yellow wires)

Next we need to remove the link from term block 1 to term block 5

Then re test. This time you will need to turn on the mazzer switch


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Term block 1 to term block 5 removed. It sounded like the contactor clicked when the mains was turned on.

Turned on Mazzer switch and the grinder fired up.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Great so that just tested the live from the mains in on the terminal block (1) to the switch T1, through the switch to L1 then the wire from the switch to the contactor 1 (L1)

I'm about to head for bed cos early start tomorrow so this to be going on with:

Remove the link term block 2 to term block 4

Re test. Again you will need to turn on the mazzer switch.

I expect this to fail

If it does then it seems likely that you need to confirm the connection of the blue wire from the mazzer switch *R/L2* on the switch and to terminal 3 of the contactor

Whatever happens I should be back on at maybe 18:30

Good luck.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Term block 2 to term block 4 removed.

Grinder fired up when Mazzer switch was turned on


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

That has proven the neutral from incoming mains through tb2, the wire to mazzer sw T2, through mazzer sw to L2 and the wire from there to contactor 3

The only remaining circuits to check are those to and from the Auber so.....

Remove link from Terminal block 1 to contactor A2

Re test. This time Mazzer sw on and activate the Auber


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Just thought I would add a little to the thinking behind this fault finding:

Multimeters are great for quick checks on voltage and continuity but they do not prove the circuit capable of carrying current.

Adding all those links to bypass each part of the circuit in the beginning only proved that the contactor worked and the motor wiring was good.

As you saw we removed each link one at a time to prove parts of the circuit and components like the thermal trip and switch were not only connected but working under load.

At this point we know that applying a voltage to contactor A2 will run the grinder so removing that link means that it now falls to the Auber to provide that voltage.

We can still add links to the Auber in order to test the load capability but to begin with I think the time has come to introduce you to your Multimeter









Mention me in case I am away from my PC. The notification I get will ensure a faster response (probably)


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy remove the terminal block 1 to A2.

Auber comes on after flicking Mazzer switch but the grinder doesn't respond to button presses.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

This next bit might require 3 hands.

power on and Mazzer switch on

With the multimeter set 1 click clockwise to 600v ~

1. multimeter black to auber 10 and mm red to auber 9. what reading?

2. move mm black to term block 2 Any change in reading?

3. move mm red to term block 1. What reading

4. move mm black to auber 10. What change?

BE AWARE YOU ARE NOW TESTING LIVE SO ONLY TOUCH THE PLASTIC ON THE MULTIMETER PROBES *NOTHING ELSE*


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy. I pulled the Auber out of the grinder body so that I could get at the contacts.

All results for the below all approx 240. I borrowed a voltmeter which has a setting of 500 not 600. Not sure if it impacts on this.

1. 241

2. 240

3. 240

3. 239

FYI. I did notice that with the Auber out of the body it doesn't light up fully. Sometimes only the red display appears and the green only appears if I moved my hand close to it. Weird! Is this normal.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

No not normal.

Power off at wall (unplug)

add link from terminal block 2 to auber 10

re test power on switch on activate auber


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy. Tried this.

Auber fired up. Grinder didn't tried all button.

Do you think it could be the actual buttons ordered via Aliexpress. Took 7 weeks to arrive?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Great ....Now we may also have an explanation for the flickering.

What appears to be the issue is that the wire from contactor term 3 to term block 4 or the wire from term block 4 to auber 10 is not connected properly creating a neutral fault.

I suggest you re-do those connections cutting off the existing copper showing and stripping just enough insulation at each end before re inserting and tightening the terminals. Maybe move those in the connector block to a different (spare) terminal pair. Be particularly anal getting those 4 cables into contactor 3. If it is just too difficult we can remote one of these cables to the terminal block (the one from the pilot light for example)


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

We can further investigate the buttons once the wiring is done but if you want you can disconnect them at the Auber for now and just bring a wire from term 2 and another from term 5 into separate spare ways of the terminal block


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

@urbanbumpkin you have mail

This thread is doing my post count a power of good


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Maybe move those in the connector block to a different (spare) terminal pair. Be particularly anal getting those 4 cables into contactor 3. If it is just too difficult we can remote one of these cables to the terminal block (the one from the pilot light for example)


 @grumpydaddy Sounds a great solution. How do I get 1 connector to 4 cables in a terminal block. (Sorry for being thick).

Pilot light?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

contactor 3 currently has 4 cables :

1. to term block 4

2. to pilot/power on light (the grey or purple)

3. to thermal protection in motor (the yellow lead)

4. to mazzer switch L2

Either 2. or 3. or both of those can go instead to terminal block 4 to give more room in contactor 3


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> contactor 3 currently has 4 cables :
> 
> 1. to term block 4
> 
> ...


 @grumpydaddy Ah! Ok I understand. I thought you meant something like a junction box like this

http://www.screwfix.com/p/20a-4-terminal-standard-junction-box-white/1239d#


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> @urbanbumpkin you have mail
> 
> This thread is doing my post count a power of good


You'll be in Mrboots2u territory at this rate


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

urbanbumpkin said:


> @grumpydaddy. Tried this.
> 
> Auber fired up. Grinder didn't tried all button.
> 
> *Do you think it could be the actual buttons ordered via Aliexpress.* Took 7 weeks to arrive?


Got any info on these?

On reflection, yes disconnect them


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Got any info on these?
> 
> On reflection, yes disconnect them


They were Metal Push Button Switch, NO, Momentary, 16mm. I'll check the order.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

This was their description on AliExpress F85 3pcs/lot 16mm Start Horn Button Momentary Stainless Steel Metal Push Button Switch. I think some of the guys on here have bought buttons from the same place.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

This was their description on AliExpress F85 3pcs/lot 16mm Start Horn Button Momentary Stainless Steel Metal Push Button Switch. I think some of the guys on here have bought buttons from the same place.

Item specifics

Brand Name:
superseller

Max. Voltage:
250VAC

Max. Current:
3A

Protection Level:
IP67/IK08

Model Number:
27373

Product Description


​


Description:
​


Mounting Cut Hole: 16mm


Head Diameter: 18mm


Operation Type: Momentary (Self Return)


Switch Contact: 1NO (Normally Open)


Head Shape: Flat


Max Switch Rating: 3A/250VAC


Terminal Type: Screw


Body Material: Stainless Steel (SS is much more resistant to wear and abrasion)


Button Material: Stainless Steel


Protection Rating: IP67/IK08


Operation Temperature: -20centigrade - 55centigrade


Panel Thickness: 1 - 6mm


This switch can be used for circuit control in electromagnetic starter, contactor, relay and other electric circuits


Color: Silver


Quantity:3pcs


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Those are what I used, Clive.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Sure does look right

One thing that has become apparent in this thread is that each of the terminals, on the Contactor and Auber and possibly on the connector block too depending on the size, is somewhat limited in that more than 2 wires connected creates issues.

One way around this might be to use Crimp connectors on each wire

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insulated-Blue-Fork-Terminal-Connector-Terminals-Crimp-Electrical-Terminal-Cable-/191961168059?var=491248744977&hash=item2cb1c6f8bb:m:mIThojuKWk4X-Eq8nSkmDcg

The blue ones will take up to 2.5 mm2 wire and the yellow ones up to 6 mm2 wire. I think the maximum for the red ones is 1.5 mm2.

Ring terminals come with different size holes and similarly fork terminals can be matched to the screw size too. I think in this instance 3.2mm fork for a 3mm screw

There are real cheap crimping tools available that work or better ones that do a prettier job (for a price).

Using these should guarantee a good connection for at least 2 wires per terminal

If you were to decide to run with this idea it might make sense to increase the size of the connector block connections to make those easier too.

I revised the drawing to show how to have a maximum of only 2 wires in every connection


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy tested all 3 buttons at 200 ohms reading 1 then drops to 0.09 when held down. Goes back to 1 when released.

Installed a bigger terminal block (didn't see your post earlier.










Still no joy with the grinder firing up.

Same issue with the display only coming on full of you hold it or if wave your sand near it. Weird.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

The meter you have..... Does it have a 10A setting ??


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

urbanbumpkin said:


> @grumpydaddy tested all 3 buttons at 200 ohms reading 1 then drops to 0.09 when held down. Goes back to 1 when released.
> 
> Installed a bigger terminal block (didn't see your post earlier.
> 
> ...


Why hey is there what appears to be an earth wire (green/yellow) connected to L1 via the connector strip ???


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

That caught me too. See post 41

This then for future reference:

Wiring the whole lot so that the only connections with two wires in them are in the connector block


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Top man


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

I'm not sure

This is the one I'm currently using










grumpydaddy said:


> The meter you have..... Does it have a 10A setting ??


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I think that has a 5 amp max Scale bot R/H side.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

The 3 holes into which the leads go...

Bottom one is common (where the black lead goes)

Middle one is where you put the red when measuring Volts Ohms Milliamps

What is written next to the top one ?? is it 5Amp max ??


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy that's the one. It does say max 5 a. What next?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

You could use the probe leads on the meter to make temporary links for individual wires once you move the red to that hole and switch the meter dial to 5A but 5A capability is a bit low for testing anything other than the Auber wiring.

I still have a feeling that either a wire or a connection on one of the wires is not good on the Auber and most likely the ones to terminals 9 and 10


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy Just wired live brown to Auber 9.

It's still doing the same thing.

I'll re-wire to identical to the diagram using new wires.

Is it worth just looking at the Auber to see if it's knackered?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Tell you what.... Run down to your local car shop/motor factor or go to Maplins and buy a couple of meters each of red and blue 28/0.030 wire.

If you cannot find wire sold in old money then anything from 1 mm2 up to 2.5 mm2 with lots of strands so that it is flexible. You could even find red/black figure 8 cable that might separate easily

Then when you get home copy the wiring as per post 79. That should ensure each connection is good and with thin wire and a bigger connector block it should be easy.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Do you want me to send up another timer unit?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Bring it round the weekend and I will fix it for you


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> That caught me too. See post 41
> 
> This then for future reference:
> 
> Wiring the whole lot so that the only connections with two wires in them are in the connector block


I've pretty much mirrored the no more that no more than 2 wires in any connector, but I'm still getting the same issues with the Auber not firing up the grinder, plus the flickering screen.

However, I'll get the wiring to match the attached diagram and we can take it from there.

Have we got to a point where we need to remove the Auber all together and work on this separately?

Grinder seems to work but not fired up by the Auber.

I'm starting to miss the grinder for espresso.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

OK so throughout this I have not considered that the Auber, being new, could be at fault ....but if you take one of the buttons presently connected between 2-3, 2-4 or 2-5 of the Auber and connect it instead to H and I on the connector block or 7 and 8 on the auber This button will do what the auber should do and that is put power on the coil of the contactor.

Assuming this works then while you wait to replace the Auber you can run the grinder for as long as your finger is on the button.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Cheers GD. I'll replace the wiring and see how we get on.

And will mirror the diagram. Happy to do more diagnostic from there. But only have today to work on the grinder.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

While on the subject of assumptions, have you ever checked the 13amp plug wiring?

If it is bonded on then forget it but otherwise..... take a quick look.

Although it should not make any difference I cannot say with certainty that the Auber would handle it if it were reversed.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@grumpydaddy Thanks for all of your help over the last week with this. As mentioned in the other thread I'm going to go for a replacement Auber as I think this one is faulty.

Also much thanks to thesystemickid, TheCatLinux and Coffeechap for their assistance too. I've learnt a lot from this.

As an interim measure while I wait for a new Auber I've now removed it from the grinder.

I've wired the 4 terminals from it 7,8,9 &10 into a separate block and have just put a loop between 7 & 8.

Turning the grinder on with the Mazzer switch rather than one of the metal button (if that makes sense). Let me know if this is madness.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Simplest way is often the best way and having those wires in a block will make wiring the new Auber a piece of cake


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> Simplest way is often the best way and having those wires in a block will make wiring the new Auber a piece of cake


Cheers Grumpdaddy. Thanks for the help, diagrams for a numpty and your patience. I think I would have lost my mind without you (after cutting holes in my Mazzer).

You've been a bit of legend and possibly educated me on a basic level of electrics


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Auber replacement fitted and I've been having a play with it for the last week.

I've got it working with a glass tube with a weight on top.

I've found the Auber is really accurate to about a 10th of a gram with my current work flow.

I tend to do a quick purge using the manual button at the beginning of the day.

Sweep out the grinds (discard grinds).

Do the timed button and sweep out the doser and burr exit. I still weigh the dose in the PF as a sanity check at the moment.

Does any Auber users use a lens hood? Or some blow through technique.

Any tips greatly appreciated.


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