# Automatic shot timer project...



## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

I thought I'd post this here, as it's something that could probably apply to many other machines - although what I've done is for the Gaggia Classic:

After thinking and Googling long and hard, I've found a suitable way of having an automatic shot timer on the Gaggia Classic. Have a look at the video below for an example (which shows my heavily modded Classic with pressure gauge, PID, pressure profile dimmer, + Invensys pump and the shot-timer).

This is a slow ramp up (courtesy of the vibe pump anyway) to a 32s pour at 6 bar.... tasted pretty good with lots of crema!






So - for the detail of what I've used for the timer and how it's wired into the Classic:

I bought one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/290914276673?roken=cUgayN










It's £13.30 delivered - so not expensive at all.  There's a variety of these timers, all 3 digit ones seem to be called ASY-3D timers - but the important parts are that it's 0-99.9s and 220V. They're not easy to find in that combination. Also note that they're often sold without the back-plate that you attach the wires to.

Anyway - wiring is quite simple... It requires 3 wires into the Classic case. A permanent neutral feed, a switched live in (from the brew switch) and a timed live out (from the timer).

So - the first connection (Pin 2 of the timer) is to a permanent neutral feed (the lower of the connections on the rear power socket), another (Pin 7) to the top pin of the brew switch on the main switchboard (you disconnect the existing cable that's on there), and another (pin 5) to the disconnected cable that was previously on the top brew bin of the main switchboard. Finally you jumper pin 7 to pin 8 also.

See photos of the connections etc. below:














































As the timer is set 'manually' using the push buttons - it requires no power to be "programmed" and you can always see the time that it's set to. In my demo video it's set to 32.0s - but you can set it to anything from 0.1s to 99.9s. Should you wish to extend the pour whilst in the middle of it, you can increase the time by pressing the buttons mid-count and it'll obey whatever the new setting is. If you want to stop a pour early then you can simply flick the brew switch off again or press the timer buttons to reduce the time.

If I can find a suitable project box to put this in (which is my main challenge at the moment - finding a damn box that doesn't cost more than the timer that I'm putting in it... and any help appreciated [roughly 120x100x70mm]) then I may also fit an over-ride momentary push button switch to extend the time (or bypass it) - though not sure it really needs it.

It works really well - flick the brew switch on, the timer starts counting and fires the pump and solenoid - and the shot starts pouring. When the timer hits the target time, it stops - and kills both the pump and solenoid (just as if you'd hit the brew switch to turn off). To run the next shot, you simply flick the brew switch off and then on again and it does the same thing again.

Anyway - I'm sure this simple method of running the pump etc. would apply to other machines - so although it's working well on a Classic I'm sure sure it'd apply just as well to variety of other 'switched' machines. Let me know if you use it on anything else.

...and if anyone can come up with a sensible box or project box (ideally black ABS or aluminium) to house it in then I'm all ears - as I can find something vaguely suitable but would rather not spend more on the box than I did on the timer (just because logically, I find that wrong!).

Anyway - enjoy and I hope this proves useful to others.


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## Finley (Oct 19, 2014)

Have you tried looking at the project boxes from maplin? Quite a range







Thanks for sharing this, on the to do list!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

^^^ yes - was my first port of call... Nothing very suitable. Nothing really found online either (Hammond etc). Best I can come up with is an ali box for about £16 - which seems bonkers.


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## Bigpikle (Oct 14, 2014)

I love the low pressure pre-infusion and then the full shot.

Does look like it should be mounted on the back of a DeLorean though....set the new date you're shooting for an bam!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

...I am running out of space inside the case... and the number of boxes and wires on the outside is rapidly hitting the 'reasonable' limit!

I can see the shot timer being fitted to the rear of the case - or perhaps the side, near the PID or on the opposite side... dunno really. Need to find a project box / case first and see what works.

All good fun though.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Would be nice if you could panel-mount the LCD and have the timer box hidden away somewhere! But it would look fine under the PID also, the manual digit adjustment is a little fugly tho


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Dylan said:


> Would be nice if you could panel-mount the LCD and have the timer box hidden away somewhere! But it would look fine under the PID also, the manual digit adjustment is a little fugly tho


It's actually quite a large box- larger than the Rex C100 PID - and I'd assume that separating the parts is a non-starter, so I think I'm stuck with trying to find a way to mount it in a box somewhere.

Due to the way that ALL of the easily available relay timers work, it's not really practical to use an electronically adjusted time - as power is only applied to the timer when the brew switch is thrown. Most people will hardly ever adjust it anyway - set it to 28s or 30s and just leave it. With the addition of a small push-button switch you could extend the time, and by flicking the brew switch off you could cut it early.

I may well just mount the timer on the rear of the machine - as I don't see myself changing it much at all - and whilst seeing the seconds count by is interesting, it's hardly the most exciting visual display!

Definitely function over form...


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## Krax (Oct 26, 2014)

Thanks MrShades for supplying such detail. I have now fitted the same and it worked first time. I used Maplins ABS Box MB5 (code YN40) which also left room for a pressure gauge rather than having to cut the stainless steel of the classic, making it much easier for me to do and reversible. Had I fitted this first I would probably have used a matching box mounted horizontally for the PID, purely for aesthetic reasons.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

You've got nearly as much crap hanging off your machine as I have.... Good to see!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

My timer is now boxed and fitted, and the Classic is installed in my office again (having now swapped my previous Graef cm95 grinder out, and a Compak K6 with Auber timer in). All working very nicely indeed:










PS Black alu box is 125x125x79 (from CPC) and cost much more than the bloody timer did! Looks good though...

PPS No - it wasn't CPC, it was Farnell (same, but different!): http://uk.farnell.com/hammond/1590kbk/box-diecast-black-125x125x79mm/dp/4437226


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

I have had the parts sitting around for ages, but between work and holidays I just haven't installed it until this morning.

I really wanted to go a smaller timer, similar in size to the Rex PID and still quite cheap...unfortunately most timers this size are an industrial beige. I have a concept to correct this by laser cutting a new facia out of black 1mm acylic and mounting the timer behind, but that's another project.

The timer has the option of counting in a few formats, the most useful being seconds, 0.1sec and 0.01sec. I use the 0.01sec option so the digits flick rapidly and make me feel warm and fuzzy inside as I watch.

I also wanted to have a modular style array on the side of the machine. From the Gaggia PID threads it was suggested that 6cm square tubing was a good fit for the Rex and I liked the look. This timer was basically the same size. If I feel keen later on I can then add another module with the pressure gauge. Mix and match! The PID is of course going to be mounted above the timer, hence the odd placement in the photos.

The pins at the back of the timer are the same size to snugly fit the crimping side of a blue connector. This handily meant I could shove on a Blue Bullet connector to the pin and add the female component onto the wire to then plug onto it. No soldering needed! The timer can come with a back plate for easily mounting the wires, but it is too large to fit in the aluminium case.

Many thanks to MrShades for his great work and write-up, plus all the other contributors that have helped my brain create the final product.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Nice work! If only you could get them in black... ;-)


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## broon71 (Aug 15, 2017)

Whats the size on that timer module? I couldn't find it on the 'bay. I was looking at maybe fitting this https://www.amazon.co.uk/H3Y-2-0-60S-Power-Delay-Socket/dp/B00AUBFLQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502796221&sr=8-1&keywords=h3y+0-60s in order to keep the profile down (maybe fit in the back somewhere. mrsB isn't keen on mods hanging of the sides of things in HER kitchen!)


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

They are all standard DIN size. Cutout of 48 mm if I remember correctly?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

timmyjj21 said:


> They are all standard DIN size. Cutout of 48 mm if I remember correctly?


1/16DIN - 45mm x 45mm cutout, 48mm x 48mm fascia

Note that the timer I originally use in post #1 isn't one of these standard sizes - it's a weird size and a pain to find a viable case!


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## slavo (Jan 16, 2019)

timmyjj21 said:


> I really wanted to go a smaller timer, similar in size to the Rex PID and still quite cheap...unfortunately most timers this size are an industrial beige. I have a concept to correct this by laser cutting a new facia out of black 1mm acylic and mounting the timer behind, but that's another project.
> 
> The timer has the option of counting in a few formats, the most useful being seconds, 0.1sec and 0.01sec. I use the 0.01sec option so the digits flick rapidly and make me feel warm and fuzzy inside as I watch.
> 
> I also wanted to have a modular style array on the side of the machine. From the Gaggia PID threads it was suggested that 6cm square tubing was a good fit for the Rex and I liked the look. This timer was basically the same size. If I feel keen later on I can then add another module with the pressure gauge. Mix and match! The PID is of course going to be mounted above the timer, hence the odd placement in the photos.


What kind of specific timer and packaging did you use?

Well thank you.

Slavo


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## slavo (Jan 16, 2019)

@MrShades

Is this the same?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121988468451?var=420980876237&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

slavo said:


> @MrShades
> 
> Is this the same?


Well, not really - but close.

That one will set the time from 0-999s, the one I used was 0.0 to 99.9s - which I thought was a better range for espesso machines.

You need an ASY-3D with the rear plate, that is 220/240V and 99.9S - like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ASY-3D-time-relay-timer-black-color-AC-220V-110V-380V-DC-24V-12V-alternative/32612044308.html

I can't see any similar ones on eBay now - but you can get the base : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Octal-8-pin-round-relay-base-PF-083A-10-amp-rated-DIN-mounting-UK-seller/261912013180?hash=item3cfb2c297c:g:MTsAAOSwpDdVbCPv:rk:1f:0


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

@MrShades Can you run is through your logic for choosing the ASY-3D timers?

I was looking around for other timers, but noted various differences that may or may not be significant. For example, others I've seen are:



Inkbird timer: https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/51488-help-and-advice-on-fitting-inkbird-idt-e2rh-digital-brew-timer/
This is the best looking one I've seen, but it seems to be a pain to figure out how to panel mount. You need a panel bracket I think and I can't easily find them. It's 1/16 DIN though. I would think that such a panel bracket would be easy to find but I don't know the keyword to search for.


Above, another posted used an Omron timer but the colours are a bit ugly in my opinion. It doesn't come in black.


This ATO Timer Relay seems like the Inkbird but having that mounting bracket. Could not source a cheap alternative for it though.


I'm sure you put some good research and thought into your choice, so could you run is through what were the other alternatives that you might have considered and why did you eventually settle on the weirdly shaped ASY-3D ones?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

phario said:


> @MrShades Can you run is through your logic for choosing the ASY-3D timers?
> 
> I was looking around for other timers, but noted various differences that may or may not be significant. For example, others I've seen are:
> 
> ...


 You MIGHT be able to use some of those - but the criteria that I had (at the time, which was obviously a few years ago) was:

1. AC powered

2. 99.9S timing capability

3. Could be configured to reset automatically when power was removed from it, and start counting when power was reapplied. This was the main factor in choosing it.

4. In conjunction with (3) - could be reprogrammed (for desired time) at any time.... with or without power.

If any of the above can do all of the above, and then have a separate set of power lines to actually power the device - then they should work. The digital ones look good... but without full details from a manual/data-sheet it's difficult to say.


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## Chef76 (Jul 29, 2021)

Would it be posible to use either of theese timer relays ??

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001130330181.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2a9e4bc8NRSrEm&algo_pvid=65736b9c-127c-4545-9bbc-56dc8017aa47&algo_exp_id=65736b9c-127c-4545-9bbc-56dc8017aa47-13

OR

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001373677583.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2a9e4bc8NRSrEm&algo_pvid=65736b9c-127c-4545-9bbc-56dc8017aa47&algo_exp_id=65736b9c-127c-4545-9bbc-56dc8017aa47-17

If for nothing else then that they are smaler and easier to fit 🙂

Chef76


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## newdent (Feb 20, 2021)

Just out of interest, why does brew pressure stay on the gauge after the shot is finished?


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