# New Boiler- HELP!



## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi fellas. My Classic boiler decided it was RIP as one element had gone. So new boiler bought. Ive stripped this Classic before, apart from separating boiler from the 'group' base section, for a good descale/ thouragh clean etc so Im aware of anatomy.

I got boiler out but BIG problems removing the 4 bolts adjoining to the base/ 'group' section: 3 bolt heads snapped off, 4th didnt shift one iota so hex key's 'rounded' the inside- so I thought best just saw head off as per others. I've WD40 the remenants (they sit 3mm from top of the boiler lugs only) but by god Ive no idea how Im going to get these out, or the boiler section from the base 'group area section as it is (should they split now? huge whacking?)- any ideas? the bolt remenants look nr fused to the alu boiler block so heaven only knows they'll be stuck worse in the base 'group' section.. if I can ever get the b'stards apart.

cheers chief


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Hi a couple of things you can try, firstly if you have a gas torch (sodering) or an electric soldering iron use one of these to apply heat directly to surrounding metal.Give it plenty of heat, this will often expand the metal andbreak the corrosion. Secondly you can soak it all in vinegar overnight and this will often acheive good results as the vinegar realy penetrates and helps disolve/ break corrosion. Lastly you can use a screw extractor (purchase from tool merchant etc) this is a piece of hardend steel similar to a tapered screw with a left hand thread and a square top end to apply a wrench or spanner.You drill a hole in the stud/ bolt to suit the screw extractor and then wind the extractor in untill it bites into the broken stud.

You could try the heat and vinegar and then try a large wood screw as modern screws are hardend ( drill hole smaller than screw )

Hope this helps


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Done it! thank you El caraJ, the solder iron was a great idea- I had a powerful one and with much jigging and swearing and whacking and puffing and heating and scolding myself.. the bolts are out. chrissakes what an arse. one has to have a pHd in engineering to have a cup of coffee already? sheesh. muchos appreciatos, Chief.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Glad it worked

El carrajillo.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Cheers El carraJ

Anyone know what kind of bolts I need to replace with? I know M6 allen bolt head kind (5mm key, 10mmx6mm head) and the threads were 16mm in length.. but a std stainless steel type or will those just rust/ do I need a special type?

And what length do I choose "16mm" or "22mm"(IE 16mm + the head's 6mm) ?

Thanks Chief


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Preferably stainless if not zinc plated. Length measured from under head Ie 16 mm. Take an old one with you to make sure you get correct thread , fine or coarse.

Take care when tightening they do not have to be very heavily tightened with brute force. Just firmly.

Try local engineering supplies, Screwfix if you have one near or possibly a motor factor (car spares )


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Great stuff El CaraJ - Ive just ordered some stainless steel 16mm ones as you recommend. I was going to do'em up badass tight but now will take your advice on that too and not go OTT.

Much appreciate your replies.


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