# Plumbing in through a metal sink



## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Hi all,

I've been seriously thinking about my next machine being plumbed in. I have an issue in that I have granite work tops and I'm not keen for the challenge/ expense of drilling down through them.

I was thinking of drilling a hole in my metal sink and plumbing through there. I'm not a plumber but the idea of trying to seal around a flexible pipe sounds like a problem. Does anyone have any experience with anything like this or have a solution?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Alex


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

What about sticking a bit of copper pipe through the sink and attaching to that? Or somehow chasing/chiseling the wall behind the worktop?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

There's a granite back plate also and behind is structural wall so going through that sounds like a no go to me


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)




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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

With the copper pipe do you mean place that through a cut hole and seal it then run the flexible tube within that and down?

If so how would I secure the pipe? Wouldn't it want to slip down the hole? Would I then put sealant between the flexi pipe and copper to stop water going down from the sink?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks for the input @jonc


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

alexferdi said:


> With the copper pipe do you mean place that through a cut hole and seal it then run the flexible tube within that and down?
> 
> If so how would I secure the pipe? Wouldn't it want to slip down the hole? Would I then put sealant between the flexi pipe and copper to stop water going down from the sink?


I'm not a plumber and rubbish at this sort of thing but I envisioned a piece of pipe locked with some sort of fitting into the the sink so some sort of compression fitting that tightened from the top and bottom of the sink around the pipe. Then a simple push fit flexible connection onto the copper pipe? Let me see if I can find an image or two.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

A picture would help. I'm struggling to get it


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

You should just be able to get another whole cut next to the tap abd then simple feed you water inlet pipe through that hole and to your machine


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## hubrad (May 6, 2013)

If you feed flexi pipe through the steel, put some kind of grommet around to protect the pipe.

Way neater would be some kind of panel mount pipe fitting.. see this page: http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=231

Possibly with a shut-off service tap, so if you ever need to disconnect the machine for servicing there's a neat stopped end just waiting for the reconnection.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Some sinks have extra holes for a different placement of the tap which is covered with a metal disc. Would be very convenient if you have one.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks very much for the help guys. @hubrab that's a great suggestion. They seem to be for gas lines but maybe something like this would work instead:


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Look up - brass push fit 15 mm X 1/2" tank connector. This will give you a connector to secure to your sink top with a flange and back nut. You can then use the push fit for feeding the pipe underneath and a 1/2" female bush with a reducer to feed your coffee machine

For the hole in the sink top you will need a "good holesaw" =Starrett or Bosch as the stainless steel top is very hard and will blunt cheap hole saws (you will also need a mandrel to hold the holesaw. Drill slowly and lubricate the cut.

Check under sink for other pipe work in the way and to make connecting easier.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks for the tips @El carajillo. I've read about using a step drill which didn't look too hard.

As @Dylan suggested I do actually have an extra opening (although it's annoyingly at the front of the sink so wasn't going to use it) so maybe it's worth reconsidering that. Is the hole too big for the seemingly slender water pipes though?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks for the tips @El carajillo. I've read about using a step drill which didn't look too hard.

As @Dylan suggested I do actually have an extra opening (although it's annoyingly at the front of the sink so wasn't going to use it) so maybe it's worth reconsidering that. Is the hole too big for the seemingly slender water pipes though?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Before you write off drilling the worktop, have a look at the Porsadrill at http://www.365drills.com/

Drilling the sink: Good quality stainless in notoriously hard so you really should forget about using a step drill. A hole using a good quality hole saw (makes mentioned before) in the area back left of the sink might do the trick but compared to drilling the worktop it won't be pretty and I guess you need two holes for supply and waste.

So, £50 to drill worktop or half that to drill sink. Neat or ugly?

Do I seem biased at all here.....?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

@grumpydaddy that porsadrill thing does look great. Now I'm not sure. I take your point about avoiding sink drilling and it will look pretty crap if I use the spare hole with water lines trailing across the sink.

I guess I'm just a bit scared of causing a fracture in the granite but is seems really thick so I guess that's unlikely. I'm absolutely not diy savvy so this is a little daunting...


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

As a side note is actually attaching all the plumbing lines straightforward yourself or is it much better to get a plumber to do it?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Where in the country are you?

Lets see if you have any DIY guys nearby.

I hate that last question...... You see I would say it is straightforward and I suspect most here would agree but I have to acknowledge that some folks are just not that way inclined. If you can follow instruction sheets then you are probably good to get this done by yourself but if there is a member nearby to add a bit of support and advice then that could be the way to proceed.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

As GD said a stepped drill is not the tool to use, also the back L/H corner would be better.

If you decide to drill the granite DO NOT USE A HAMMER DRILL. standard rotary. Build a dam around position with Plumbers Mate or plasticine and fill with water, this keeps the drill cool.

Have something underneath to catch the water as the drill goes through . You will need to kneel on the work top to apply steady /heavy pressure to the drill.

If you are handy with DIY and have tools it is worth doing it yourself. Without tools and a little knowledge it would probably be better to get a plumber.

Working in cupboards can be awkward at the best of times, cutting pipes and "wangling" in fittings and pipework, often unable to rotate spanners very far.

Push fit fittings make things easier but you may / will have to cut pipes to make connection /s Feed and waste.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

I'm based in east London and would love some guidance if anyone has the time!

I would be drilling to behind a washing machine so very tight space indeed!

Thanks for all the advice guys!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

If you go for the worktop option the tank connector I mentioned initially will not be long enough, but if you are running waste and feed through one hole it will not be required.

For the hole in the granite, Starrett also supply diamond tipped holesaws in an extensive range of sizes for this purpose available singly.

To neaten the hole in the W/top you could use a pipe cover as used to hide holes in floors where radiator pipes come through, available in white and chrome.

If you drill the worktop behind the washing M/ch you must be at least 25 mm from the edge of the hole to the edge of the granite, too close and the top will crack.!!!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Just incase you haven't already...

Where is the machine going to go, as this is obviously where you will want your pipe to come out if you end up going through the granite. Are you 100% sure that there are no other avenues to bring the pipes up. Is the worktop connected at any point to a plasterboard or similar that you can pass a pipe through, and can you run the pipe from here? Could they even come out of the front of a cupboard near a wall and be covered with a pipe box thing.

You have probably run through this all already, but ya never know.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

What is the wall made of? is it sand and cement rendered, browning, or board and skim? Personally I would cut out a hole and fit an electrical back box, but before fitting use a masonry drill to boar two holes down (and two up from underneath so they meet.) Knock the tenpences out of the electrical box and insert grommets before fixing in the hole. That way you could get a blanking plate and drill a couple of holes in it (along with grommets) and have your pipes run into this, and down behind the worktop. If you get fed up, just replace with another blanking plate or plaster over.

I've thought about this a couple of times, no good for me though with my set-up as I don't need it plumbing in, but it's an option if I ever needed it.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

I think I would drill under the coffee machine. It kinda makes life simpler/safer than near an edge. also any replacement machine will hide the hole. Biasing toward the rear a little might mean that if you ever sell all your machines. a simple bread bin keeps things looking good. There should be enough clearance above the washing machine for the hoses. Diamond saws cut through on their own you just need to guide the tool with very little pressure really. pay attention too to the manufacturers notes on what speed the drill should turn at.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Yeah @El carajillo, I'm really worried about causing a granite crack and don't really know what I'm doing.

@Rhys I think the walls are cinder block but I may be completely wrong. I don't know what most of the materials are in your post. I'm sure it would be possible to drill through though.

@dylon you got me thinking and there is a waste stack in the corner near the machine. It's pretty narley in there but I guess that doesn't matter. I figure I could cut into the stack to get a line in and feed it to come out the plastic panel that's above the counter. What do people think?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks again for all the advice!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I think what Rhys is saying is that regardless of what the actual wall is made of there will be a layer on top of plaster which would be thick enough to run a pipe through, your electrical sockets for example will be set into this plaster layer.

I dont know what a waste stack is but I would investigate that possibility.

The pillar in the corner... is that a solid supporting pillar or it is hollow? If the waste stack is behind that plastic door, and it is at all deep I would have thought it was hollow, and you may be able to run it through there. Give it a rap with your knuckles.

Edit: I'm not sure if anyone has asked yet, but why do you want to plumb in... and have you considered that you will likely want to filter your water supply for hardness/chlorine/mineral content? Is the convenience you will gain from a plumped in worth all the extras you need?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Dylan said:


> Is the convenience you will gain from a plumped in worth all the extras you need?


Hell yeah


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

As you are in London where I believe the water is very hard, have you considered where and if you have sufficient space for a filter ?

The boxing in the corner is normally for the soil and vent pipe, this will also carry the water and waste from the bathroom /toilet.

If you cut into this you will require a "boss" connector, these can be strap on or solvent weld, the strap on requires more space and access all around the stack to fit the strap. The solvent weld only requires access from one face /area, you will need the boss,solvent cleaner and solvent adhesive also the correct size hole saw to suit the boss.

Coming from the boss / pipe stub you will require a "trap" to prevent sewer gas /smells coming into the house.

If this is a fairly new /modern property the walls are probably concrete block internally.

The plastering MAY be directly onto the blockwork OR more frequently used these days is" board and dab" where plaster board is applied to the walls with ribbons / strips of bonding adhesive which leaves a small / narrow air gap between the block and plaster board.

Without lifting you machine up you would not be able to run the waste drain through the plastic door as it will be too high to allow the waste water to drain and will overflow the waste tray.


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Leave it alone, you will ruin the look of your nice worktop and no matter what option you go for on the sink it too will probably look ugly. Your machine is next to your sink so why is just filling it up a problem. IK just lift the lid off mine a top it up, would be nice to be plumbed in but wouldn't give myself major hassle.

Just a thought, have you told the other half what you plan to do


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

mremanxx said:


> Leave it alone, you will ruin the look of your nice worktop and no matter what option you go for on the sink it too will probably look ugly. Your machine is next to your sink so why is just filling it up a problem. IK just lift the lid off mine a top it up, would be nice to be plumbed in but wouldn't give myself major hassle.
> 
> Just a thought, have you told the other half what you plan to do


Perhaps the machine is plumb only


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

coffeechap said:


> Perhaps the machine is plumb only


You could sell him another one Dave that isn't


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

coffeechap said:


> Perhaps the machine is plumb only


He doesn't have it yet, just "seriously thinking about my next machine being plumed in"


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

doublepost


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Dylan said:


> He doesn't have it yet, just "seriously thinking about my next machine being plumed in"


I know


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Cheers @Dylan yeah I think I finally understand rhys' point now. Thinking about what @El carajillo was saying I won't be able to plumb the drain line if I use any option that goes over the back wall panel. I suppose the drip being plumbed isn't an absolute essential for me though.

@El carajillo thanks for the advice. All your Salk of sewage smell filters had put me off that route quite heavily!

Yeah I'm considering a plumb only machine . Would have stopped attempting the impossible a while ago if I had the option of tank!


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Had a new thought that seems similar and avoids poo smells:

I could just run the lines in front of the washing machine behind the skirting then come out the top of this random panel and go over the worktop lip with the lines. Could keep them against the walls with something like an electric cord wall runner.
























Would that work? I seem to constantly overlook loads of crazy stuff with this plan!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

If it were me, and I had that soil stack in the corner then I'd be using it! It's only got a great big grey plastic pipe in it, so no worries there - you should have plenty of space for extra pipes.

As Rhys said, fit a shallow electric back-box and face-plate just above the granite but in the corner of the soil stack - where it meets the rear wall (ie round pipe in a square column, there'll be less depth available in the middle of it) and then route pipes through there and out somewhere below and then across the underneath the cupboards to the sink plumbing etc. Would be pretty easy with some push-fit and plastic and/or braided flexible pipe.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks for the input @MrShades. The point about lack of ability to plumb the drain pipe still stands though right?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

alexferdi said:


> Thanks for the input @MrShades. The point about lack of ability to plumb the drain pipe still stands though right?


Yeah, I can't see any way to plumb a drain without going straight down through the granite I'm afraid.

I'd go with a plumbed feed, and accept that you have to manually empty the drip tray now and again - and not touch the granite or the sink!

Good luck.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

i have mounted my L1 P on a raised plinth, the pipes are then hidden from view I just run a pipe into a small sink for the drain out.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Seeing the latest photo's of the W/mch and kitchen unit I do not think you can gain access to the soil stack as there appears to be a make up / blank panel supporting the worktop and blanking off the soil stack. You would need to remove the plinth (which appears to be siliconed to the floor) in order to remove the W/mch. The panel may not go fully to the back wall but if it does you would need to cut a reasonable sized hole to access the soil pipe to fit a boss.

IF you can access the soil pipe you could drill a hole through the granite upstand close to the internal corner. Worst case scenario if the upstand broke you could replace it economically.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

@El carajillo of your talking about this base panel it luckily seems to just slide out easily.

















So I guess I could fairly easily have access to the waste stack or just come out just below the worktop and loop it over (but that would be fairly ugly I guess but would give me drainage)


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The other panel I mentioned is the one showing at the bottom to the left of the M/ch


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

You mean the granite panel against the wall and waste stack?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

alexferdi said:


> You mean the granite panel against the wall and waste stack?


There appears to be a decorative panel at the side of the M/ch


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> There appears to be a decorative panel at the side of the M/ch


If by M/ch you mean at the side of my lever machine then yes and I take your point about having to drill that for waste outlet. I'm erring away from that to be honest and to just have feed in and manually empty the drip tray.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Dylan said:


> I think what Rhys is saying is that regardless of what the actual wall is made of there will be a layer on top of plaster which would be thick enough to run a pipe through, your electrical sockets for example will be set into this plaster layer.


Not quite. You will have block-work of some sort, either slag, cinder, thermolite (usually upstairs - prone to cracking as very brittle) or brickwork. Else it will be stud-work if internal. On top of this will be either sand & cement render with skimming on top, browning with skimming on top, plasterboard stuck onto the wall with skimming on top or in some cases just painted plasterboard (Persimmon/Baratts etc.

I've recently added some sockets in our house, which in a couple of places just involved drawing round a metal back box onto the wall, using a masonry bit to the same depth as the box and drilling the outline (along with peppering the inside bit with holes) then chiselling the inside bit out. Before fitting the box I used a long masonry bit to drill either through the wall to the other side, or down at a slight angle where we have a worktop in the utility. The I drilled upwards from underneath the worktop. it was just a case of then fitting the box and feeding the wires through (or in your case, pipes).

It didn't bother me if I made a mess of it as I'm a plasterer by trade, but the new sockets came out very tidy, which was good as one wall had just been papered..

Personally I can't see any problems with this method in this instance, and any patching that may occur is easily fixed.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

alexferdi said:


> If by M/ch you mean at the side of my lever machine then yes and I take your point about having to drill that for waste outlet. I'm erring away from that to be honest and to just have feed in and manually empty the drip tray.


Between the washing M/ch and the soil pipe. If it is you will need to make an access through the panel to work on the soil pipe =fit a boss


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

I don't think plumbing into the soil pipe would be a good idea from experience.. I've had one block up and back up to the toilet upstairs. You wouldn't want that sort of backflush would you? Accessing the cavity where the stack is to feed a pipe through is doable, but plumbing into a soil stack? Pulling a nice Kenyan, or Yirg, smelling the aroma and then you get a whiff coming from the drip tray


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

It does not matter whether the connection is via the stack or the waste pipe under the sink, IF there is ever a blockage in the main drain /sewer it will back up through any connection.

It is quite likely that his existing waste pipe from the sink runs into the S+V pipe via a boss, this is normal practice.

Problems can occur when people insert a pipe directly into the stack, catching waste and causing a build up /blockage.

A boss does not protrude into the stack and has a shoulder inside to prevent the pipe being pushed through into the stack.

But Yirg with flavouring definite NO NO:yuk:


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

In no way had I planned to go in to the actual waste pipe! That sounds awful. Was just going to run the pipes in the space in the column between the waste pipe and wall of it.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

El carajillo said:


> It does not matter whether the connection is via the stack or the waste pipe under the sink, IF there is ever a blockage in the main drain /sewer it will back up through any connection.
> 
> It is quite likely that his existing waste pipe from the sink runs into the S+V pipe via a boss, this is normal practice.
> 
> ...


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Hey guys. Just wanted to say thanks for all true advice on the plumb issue. It actually ended up being a lot easier than I expected. Just went into the soil stack and there were already holes cut into it at the bottom so just fed the pipe into them.

One small issue is that living in London it appears I have pretty weak water pressure. I've looked at the forum but can't find anything about flojets which I believe I need. Anyone know about these and which system would be best for a home setup rather than mobile water bottle type setup?

Happy new year everyone,

Alex


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

@DaveC is pretty knowledgeable on the flow jets.

Is that pipe from the opv? Is the drip tray still hand empty?


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

Dylan said:


> @DaveC is pretty knowledgeable on the flow jets.
> 
> Is that pipe from the opv? Is the drip tray still hand empty?


No sorry, know little about them


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Oh thought you used one. Must have been someone else.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

@Dylan. I've just let the outflow go into the sink so it's not very elegant but at least I don't have to worry about to tray. I need the flojet to attach to the water filter I'm using to its s standard plumb water connection the same as a washing machine.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

When folks talk about a Flojet, is it this one?

http://coffeehit.co.uk/water-pumps/flojet-plus-bottled-water-pump


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

That's a flojet yes.

When you say low water pressure, how low are we talking?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Pressure was 2.0 bar last night. Looking again just now it seems to be 3.0. Probably because it's off peak and people have stopped using water. I may be able to loosen off the reducer valve when it drops off. This obviously isn't ideal so are there reducer valves that keep the pressure stable if it fluctuates over the day?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

the one you have will, provided the pressure is above what you set it at.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Sounds like I'll need a system to boost the pressure then. Any one got any experience with those?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

have a look on the londinium forum, frans did a post on boosting pressure


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

I use a Flojet an accumulator on the stall now, don't think it would help you in this situation (unless you want to run off a container)


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

What pressure do you seek?

A small pressure set isn't very small but would cope with whole house at a max pressure of 4 bar and cost in the order of £200+

Some off the 12v diaphragm pumps might be considered that work like the Flojet but you would need to experiment some due to the inlet pressure already present. Cost for these is more like £30 they come in various pressures and flow rates on ebay


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

How are you checking the pressure? Static with gauge on tap without any flow anywhere ?. OR gauge on tap with water being drawn off at another tap ?

Have you checked that the stop tap is fully open ?

Pressure first thing in the morning is usually the lowest, every one showering and making drinks etc.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

I would ideally like to get 3.0 bar which is where the L1-P is designed to be. Feels like a crime to run it at lower.

I'm measuring the pressure off the pressure reducing valve which is placed just after the brita water filter before running to the machine. Haven't thought about what exact scenario I'm checking at but I will look at that. Should I not be checking static? Obviously I don't want another source being on and drawing some of the pressure but should I be reading the pressure when the machine is filling and there is flow?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

The stop tap is fully open


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

@grumpydaddy thanks for the tip. Are you saying there are flojets designed for this purpose or would it be a botch job?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

From what I can make out all flow jets seem to be tank fed in one way or another and they seem to be low voltage too so require a power supply similar to that used by a laptop.

Building such a thing from parts might not be a bad thing and could be made to look good. In view of the need for small quantities of water (flow) under pressure you might not need it to be automatic during the testing phase and there are a whole bunch of fittings and pipework out there that are used in the drinks industry that would lend themselves well to use with just potable water.


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

My flojet gives about 2bar so wouldn't be an improvement for you.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

funinacup said:


> My flojet gives about 2bar so wouldn't be an improvement for you.


Mine gives three to four out the accumulator


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Ideal


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Would the flojet system entail a bottle fed type approach or can they supplement mains?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Big container > flojet > accumulator > machine

I don't see how a flojet could be used with the mains


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Would this work. Seems cheap and cheerful


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/271929106749

It says max output is 1.7 bar. I don't know if this is in addition to the resting mains pressure or total max


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

This type of pump is intended for use off a "cistern" = tank in the roof. Not for boosting mains pressure.

I think you will find fitting this would contravene the Water Regulation Bye Laws.

What pressure do you have at your kitchen tap ?


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> This type of pump is intended for use off a "cistern" = tank in the roof. Not for boosting mains pressure.
> 
> I think you will find fitting this would contravene the Water Regulation Bye Laws.
> 
> What pressure do you have at your kitchen tap ?


Im not sure if this is meant for a tank. Frans had the same problem as Coffeechap said and he used this:

http://londiniumespresso.com/forum/londinium-i-owners-forum/673-line-pressure-boost

Is the one I linked not the same? Why would this be breaking laws?

I'm not sure what my tap pressure is. I guess I could switch over the prv onto the tap to check.


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

https://www.watersafe.org.uk/advice/wfr_faq/


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

Thecatlinux said:


> https://www.watersafe.org.uk/advice/wfr_faq/


Does this mean I can't boost the pressure?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

It looks like you need a non return valve in the supply to the pump and that's it if you consider the pump to be part of the coffee machine or if the pump is only capable of


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

grumpydaddy said:


> It looks like you need a non return valve in the supply to the pump and that's it if you consider the pump to be part of the coffee machine or if the pump is only capable of
> 
> Looks like you got cut off there


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

@grumpydaddy you got cut off there


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

No, The thing that they seem most concerned about is contamination of the water supply which a non return valve resolves

There is also mention of a need to advise the authority of any pump over 12 ltrs per minute..... which you would not need

I many respects you would be just adding a pump to your machine and manufacturers do that all the time..... Like in the L1 if tanked...or a washing machine. You are just using slightly different technology and fitting it remote from the machine.

at least that is the way I see it


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

grumpydaddy said:


> No, The thing that they seem most concerned about is contamination of the water supply which a non return valve resolves
> 
> There is also mention of a need to advise the authority of any pump over 12 ltrs per minute..... which you would not need
> 
> ...


I agree I don't see a problem. Haven't been through the laws thoroughly but there are definitely many of these kinds of pumps that state they are compliant with laws so I think it's ok. Just need to find one that works now!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Just received a reply from Grundfoss Technical.

Their pump U P A 15 -90 N OR

U P A 15 120 can be connected directly to mains for pressure boost

Pipe fitting 3/4 B S P , you will need a 15 mm to 3/4" fitting.

Boost will obviously depend on incoming water pressure.

Could one of the Mods move this post onto the increase water pressure posts please.


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## alexferdi (Aug 4, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> Just received a reply from Grundfoss Technical.
> 
> Their pump U P A 15 -90 N OR
> 
> ...


Thanks for checking this out. I think this is what Frans used in his. I will go with this if no more cost effective one presents itself.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

That is a circulating pump with a max head (pressure) of 6m (0.6bar)

It might add .6bar to your existing pressure. it is not designed for potable water


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I explained its use / purpose and this was the information I received.

I will contact the person again and ask for clarification and definite suitability:confused:


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