# A small (major) project.



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Hello folks

I've bought a little project: a Mazzer Major Auto - which I'm thinking of maybe Auber-ing/single dosing or modding somehow (as a cheeky second grinder for either my SSSSS or decaf - or maybe taking to the office; not each day - just once!)

I was also vaguely interested to see if the same bean side by side in the 75e and Major taste much different to my fatigued palate.

Anyway. I just wondered if anyone had any advice on:

1. The best mods to do and any cost ideas:

- adding an auber?

- de autoing it?

- dehoppering it (I saw @coffeechap recommended some pipe and a 58mm lens hood)?

- any others?

2. Painting this beast and the prep involved etc.

3. Anything else Major related?

Any advice or thoughts very welcome!

Thanks.


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

The search function is not great on the forum but everything you are looking for is there.

You can make it doserless with a fudge funnel, adding an Auber is covered in a few threads. Removing the auto functions is just a matter of shorting the switches where they connect in the base and painting ranges from a DIY car spray paint job to removing the motor and sending it off to be powder coated.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks. I found a fair bit fishing around but I suppose as well as the how to guide I wanted a view from those who regularly use one about what really works best.


----------



## EEFFOC (Jan 2, 2016)

I'm looking at doing exactly the same and intend on completing a photo documented modification. Depending on how quick you intend to do it I will either be learning from your efforts or passing on what I hope to be an informative set of instructions. I'm looking at a smaller custom hopper, going doserless (if that's even a word) with the aim of an electronic timer for delivery and a powder coat Finsh for the body. I will keep an eye on this thread with anticipation and wish you luck.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

EEFFOC said:


> I'm looking at doing exactly the same and intend on completing a photo documented modification. Depending on how quick you intend to do it I will either be learning from your efforts or passing on what I hope to be an informative set of instructions. I'm looking at a smaller custom hopper, going doserless (if that's even a word) with the aim of an electronic timer for delivery and a powder coat Finsh for the body. I will keep an eye on this thread with anticipation and wish you luck.


You go first and I'll follow!


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I have a doserless Mazzer SJ (fudge funnel mod) with Auber timer and glass tube hopper with lens hood. It works very well, I get little static (not always the case) and dosing is +/-.3g with very little retention. It's also polished so it's shiny.

All the mods are completely worth it, makes it so much easier to use. Maybe excluding the polish, more effort than its worth.


----------



## EEFFOC (Jan 2, 2016)

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=297

This looks a good place to start for the auber.


----------



## Drewster (Dec 1, 2013)

jonc said:


> You go first and I'll follow!


If you walkaway walkaway

I walkaway walkaway.. I will follow...


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> I have a doserless Mazzer SJ (fudge funnel mod) with Auber timer and glass tube hopper with lens hood. It works very well, I get little static (not always the case) and dosing is +/-.3g with very little retention. It's also polished so it's shiny.
> 
> All the mods are completely worth it, makes it so much easier to use. Maybe excluding the polish, more effort than its worth.


Nice. Have you a thread on it with pics do you know please? (I'll search too - before anyone lmgtfy's me.)


----------



## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

Dylan said:


> I have a doserless Mazzer SJ (fudge funnel mod) with Auber timer and glass tube hopper with lens hood. It works very well, I get little static (not always the case) and dosing is +/-.3g with very little retention. It's also polished so it's shiny.
> 
> All the mods are completely worth it, makes it so much easier to use. Maybe excluding the polish, more effort than its worth.


Let's see a picture Dylan to give the guys some inspiration


----------



## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

EEFFOC said:


> I'm looking at doing exactly the same and intend on completing a photo documented modification. Depending on how quick you intend to do it I will either be learning from your efforts or passing on what I hope to be an informative set of instructions. I'm looking at a smaller custom hopper, going doserless (if that's even a word) with the aim of an electronic timer for delivery and a powder coat Finsh for the body. I will keep an eye on this thread with anticipation and wish you luck.


Go Rob go!

Knowing how much of a perfectionist you are I fully expect Mazzer to be picking up some tips from you! (no pressure now mate







)


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

I de-autod mine, very easy and if you search I put a thread up (with pics) on what I did. Sainsburys do small cocktail shakers for the single dosing mod, alongside removing most of the gubbins in the hooper and fitting vanes for a clean sweep mod (I used plastic instead of card). I single dose by means of bottom part of the hopper assembly (as it can be shut to stop the few beans bouncing out that make it, plus it saves mucking about with the safety switch.)


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)




----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Cocktail shaker top and a spare plastic vane.


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I only finished the polish recently, but I'll pop up a couple of pics if I manage to remember when I get home on Wednesday.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> I only finished the polish recently, but I'll pop up a couple of pics if I manage to remember when I get home on Wednesday.


Was the polish a progressively less aggressive sand followed by a polish? Will you lacquer it or anything?


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Yea, you could probably get a decent finish if you were careful removing the paint and then just polished with a paste.

I was not careful so had a rough scratched surface so then used a bench grinder with sanding flap wheels then polishing mops and compound.

It marks fairly easily but I keep it looking shiney with some Mother's Mag polish. A coat of clear laquer may well be a good option.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Cool. Now first problem how do I wrestle the base off this beast? Please help!









I've removed the feet but guessing this hex pin bolt thing has something to do with it!


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Yeah, you need to undo that as well, try twisting the bracket if you don't have a hex bit.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Rhys said:


> Yeah, you need to undo that as well, try twisting the bracket if you don't have a hex bit.


Cheers - I'm in!

Used an Irwin bolt removal tool I had. Excellent.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Here goes!


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Oh no. It's 1am. But it is clean!









Looking good:









But only from the left


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Ti as well, nice









Removing the auto gubbins is straight forward enough.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

The other side has clearly served as someone portafilter-settling bashing post. Not cool.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Rhys said:


>


So I removed two light grey wires coming from the hopper and two dark grey or black ones. One set seem to do the auto flappy bit the other set do something at the bottom. Am I right in understanding that now I just need to jump the connections where the light grey cables went?


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jonc said:


> So I removed two light grey wires coming from the hopper and two dark grey or black ones. One set seem to do the auto flappy bit the other set do something at the bottom. Am I right in understanding that now I just need to jump the connections where the light grey cables went?


Yes


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

coffeechap said:


> Yes


Cheers!


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

The ones that go to the bottom of the hopper restart the grinder after 8 swipes of the doser (IIRC) so it automatically tops it back up. The most important ones to remove for safety's sake IMHO. Good excuse to completely dismantle the doser assembley to clean it and fit 'clean sweep' vanes.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Cool thanks...


I'm actually trying - and failing - to figure out how to fully disassemble the doser. All advice welcome!



In a paint/polish/finish quandary too - 50% of the grinder is in good nick the other half has been beaten up by someone smacking the portafilter on the housing - an I going to have to repaint the whole thing...



Also - how does one stop dust / paint getting inside the grinder through the vents please - is it a case of stuffing paper inside or something?



ALSO! Last also - how does one remove the badge without removing the motor?


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Badge is just a push fit, wiggle a screwdriver behind it.

There are two screws at the botttom at the back inside the doser, remove these and the two obvious ones at the top.

I would sand down and repaint, once all the bits are off its easy enough to do and you get your own choice of colour.

And yea just block the vents somehow, ideally from the inside. If you send it to be piercer coated the motor needs to come out so it's easy to mask off from the inside.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> Badge is just a push fit, wiggle a screwdriver behind it.
> 
> There are two screws at the botttom at the back inside the doser, remove these and the two obvious ones at the top.
> 
> ...


Thanks; I'll lever that badge off then get sanding! I've removed the doser - just trying to work out how to take it all apart!


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

It's relatively easy apart from the bottom veins and the gold coloured ratchet nut on the underside. I wouldn't bother to remove these if I were you, doing the clean sweep mod doesn't require removal of the bottom veins.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> It's relatively easy apart from the bottom veins and the gold coloured ratchet nut on the underside. I wouldn't bother to remove these if I were you, doing the clean sweep mod doesn't require removal of the bottom veins.


Many thanks Dylan!


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Save you searching...

Mazzer thread...

Another Mazzer thread...


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Good online guide here as well - though I wouldn't recommend using pliers against the chute..

I'd suggest mole grips or similar..




























When you clean the doser, hopefully it wasn't this bad... Brewed anyone? (Should've sent some to Bootsy for tasting notes..














)


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks Rhys; I've actually trawled all of these already but appreciate the links!


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

For clarity I think there is a pin to knock out before you can do the process in Rhys' post.


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Dylan said:


> For clarity I think there is a pin to knock out before you can do the process in Rhys' post.


There is a pin, but I didn't knock it completely out, just enough to turn the bolt as it holds the brass ratchet thingy to the threaded collar in the doser. Don't force it though - if it's too stiff to move you could break something.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Can't muster the energy to sand my casing or deconstruct my doser tonight. Sad times.


----------



## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

jonc said:


> Can't muster the energy to sand my casing or deconstruct my doser tonight. Sad times.


I didn't strip the Major's doser completely, just the SJ I had. The Major's plastic insert has coffee stains behind it and I can't be bothered doing it as I use it lol.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

It's 23:10. Seems like a good time to take my doser apart.


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Man alive it's filthy


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Sanded down and ready for primer!


----------



## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

Getting there! Can we get a photo of it looking terrible before it is gone for good!?


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

timmyjj21 said:


> Getting there! Can we get a photo of it looking terrible before it is gone for good!?


It'll probably still look terrible once I paint it! Will get some photos later!


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

timmyjj21 said:


> Getting there! Can we get a photo of it looking terrible before it is gone for good!?


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

With some primer (which has since been re sanded drastically!)


----------

