# Rancilio Classe 6 restoration



## jeebsy

Put a speculative bid in on one of these last month and ended up winning it. It was located not far from the Rave so decided to kill two birds with one stone.

It was sold as:
"This espresso machine has been with us from new and has served lots of good coffees. One of the group heads doesn't work very well and I would suggest a good service and overhaul.Also comes with a water filter.

This would be an ideal machine for a new starter or a back up machine, but again I'd say a service would be nessary."



Got back at 11.30 last night and thought "I'll get the stuff that's covered in coffee off and soak them in Puly overnight" and ended up taking it back to almost the frame

Shower screen:

  IMAG1721 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Top of the machine behind the volumetric switches:  IMAG1724 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Board:  IMAG1726 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Front with the panels off:

  IMAG1728 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1729 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy

First indication there might be a scale issue:

  IMAG1743 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1729 by wjheenan, on Flickr

There was a snail on inside of the frame

  IMAG1746 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1747 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Boiler stripped and descaling:  IMAG1759 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Element after the acid bath

  IMAG1761 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Frame all cleaned down (no snails)

  IMAG1760 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy

The HX pipe to the faulty group was (is) really badly scaled - could barely blow through it so that could be one cause. Hopefully it won't need to descale for too long then we can get it re-assembled and tested.The anti vac was fecked so got a replacement for that today, two new shower screens, group seals and tip for the steam wand.


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## Sk8-bizarre

Bloody hell Jeebsy man, you have my upmost respect for getting that stuck in after all that travel in a weekend. Keen doesn't even come close.

I be finding that daunting without even having fit your weekend in........the thought of stripping the SJ I have coming worries me enough.

Getting it done!!


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## GCGlasgow

Always like watching a restoration...keep the pics coming and will hopefully get a coffee from it soon at the stall.


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## funinacup

This machine is a savage!


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## jeebsy

Got to thank @funinacup for showing me how to use a spanner properly earlier


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## hotmetal

Ouch! Is that finger centre-cut?


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## funinacup

Right on the knuckle!


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## aaroncornish

Awesome Jeebsy! When does it get powder coated?


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## Rhys

Stripping an SJ, the doser windows are pretty sharp on the inside when you remove the clear plastic sleeve.


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## GCGlasgow

Maybe start a thread with injuries caused by coffee equipment restoration!


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## bronc

Great job! With this speed it might be ready for your next visit to the farmers' market.


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## jeebsy

aaroncornish said:


> Awesome Jeebsy! When does it get powder coated?


I'm weighing that up. Going to get the silver bit on the back panel done, not sure about the rest:

View attachment 14526




bronc said:


> Great job! With this speed it might be ready for your next visit to the farmers' market.


I'm doing a beer festival this weekend but think that's massively optimistic. Had allowed 4-6 weeks depending on parts etc but might have chopped that to a fortnight after today....


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## jeebsy

I'd love to have most of it matt black but slightly hesitant after the k30 - powder coating is quite thick and had to spend a lot of time filing various bits down


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## Xpenno

Seriously impressive work already Jeebsy, looking forward to seeing it in all its glory!!


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## Rhys

jeebsy said:


> I'd love to have most of it matt black but slightly hesitant after the k30 - powder coating is quite thick and had to spend a lot of time filing various bits down


There, that's more like it....


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## jeebsy

Rhys said:


> There, that's more like it....


The Mythos is going to be the alpha male on the stall, what that says goes...


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## jeebsy

View attachment 14527


There's a few stickers on the front i'd rather not lose though. This is going to be a tough decision....


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## espressotechno

Powder coating a finger ?? LOL


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## espressotechno

PS You must not lose the Rancilio spec plate, otherwise it becomes an illegal m/c under will not be able to be pressure certified. If necessary, carefully remove it & refix it inside a panel.


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## Thecatlinux

Looked at your photo was it more than one element in the boiler like we discussed yesterday can you post a pic of the terminals face on


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## jeebsy

espressotechno said:


> PS You must not lose the Rancilio spec plate, otherwise it becomes an illegal m/c under will not be able to be pressure certified. If necessary, carefully remove it & refix it inside a panel.


Yeah need to keep that, and the stickers that tell me what all the buttons do haha. The espresso italiano thing can get to though



Thecatlinux said:


> Looked at your photo was it more than one element in the boiler like we discussed yesterday can you post a pic of the terminals face on


  IMAG1764 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## Thecatlinux

That may work to advantage dude , if power is an issue on the stall , failing that if you want or need to get onto a 16amp 'commando' plug arrangement I can a work a way of protecting things with a fuse your end should you need to.

Hope it all goes well with the restore


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## espressotechno

The boiler element is a 3 loop one, probably totalling 16+ amps. The load will be stamped on either the element base plate or one of the loops.

Just disconnect one of the loops to reduce the load to under 13amps.


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## jeebsy

It's 3kw so perfect (just) for a plug?


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## coffeechap

Come together nice mate, this will be a great little machine for the stall


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## froggystyle

jeebsy said:


> It's 3kw so perfect (just) for a plug?


Borderline, but then i run my roaster at 3.2kw... Just keep an eye on the plug to see if its getting too warm.


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## froggystyle

Pick up a meter thing and keep an eye on it when the heater is kicking in and out, just to check your not going over.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electricity-Power-Energy-Monitor-Meter-KWH-Watt-/151691904254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23518ac4fe


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## jeebsy

My groups have picked up a lovely copper tinge from being in the descaler with all the other bits, will brasso or something take this off or are they stained for good?


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## The Systemic Kid

jeebsy said:


> Got to thank @funinacup for showing me how to use a spanner properly earlier


Judging by the pic above - maybe not


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## The Systemic Kid

Seriously impressed with the speed you're cracking on with the project.


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## jeebsy

I'm going to check the boiler tonight, might start reassembling if its alright. OCD helps to keep it ticking along!


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## jeebsy

Some of the new Rancilios have a 'Clever' steam tap which opens and closes through a 90 degree range of motion. Just spoke to espresso services and apparently they won't fit


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## jeebsy

Today's update:

Pipes all descaled and clear but they've gone a fetching shade of pink. Looks like I salvaged them from the wreck of the Titanic or something.

There's a stubborn spot on the boiler so that's been put in fresh descaler overnight but didn't get much fizz when i put it in :-(

  IMAG1778 by wjheenan, on Flickr

(the only bit left now is the bit at the bottom, but the grey lining at the side hasn't shifted either)

Removed the rating sticker with a razor blade and it's 3.4kw so will probably have to leave one of the loops disconnected, will be pushing it on a plug:

  IMAG1780 by wjheenan, on Flickr

When I was taking it apart there was a pipe coming out the boiler not connected to anything, and a pipe below that one not connected to anything but it didn't look like they were supposed to connect. Got the exploded drawings today and it looks like part 11 (level water electrovalve) should be there:

  IMAG1781 by wjheenan, on Flickr

There was a rogue solenoid-y looking thing lose near there but not sure how this would connect so might be a part missing. The water was full of water though and it didn't leak when i moved the machine despite this mystery pipe not being connected.

IMAG1781 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Started roughly putting the parts back together, hoping to get cracking tomorrow night if the last of the scale shifts

  IMAG1783 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy

Panels off to the powder coaters in the morning


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## coffeechap

At the rate it will be up and running by the weekend, great work dude


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## jeebsy

coffeechap said:


> At the rate it will be up and running by the weekend, great work dude


Hopefully get it sort of back together tonight but bit concerned that part might be missing and things will get delayed. I don't like delays


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> Panels off to the powder coaters in the morning


You're at it


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## jeebsy

funinacup said:


> You're at it


I'm just about to cycle there now with them in my bag


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## jeebsy

Thin stainless is apparently a pain to prep - can't be shot blasted or it'll distort so has to be done by hand. That takes time, and time = money. The guy said it could be £80-£100 in prep alone but it's easy to do so recommended I prep the bits then take them up for them to just coat which will be much cheaper. 240 grit sandpaper and thinners. There goes tonight....


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## coffeechap

jeebsy said:


> 240 grit sandpaper and thinners. There goes tonight....


welcome to my world, good luck


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## Mrboots2u

Jeebsy, after the Rave event i went to work the next day , then was in bed by 8 pm ...

The way your cracking on with this is super inspiring mate

Well done and keep going !!!!


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## Pret194

the thought of stripping the SJ I have coming worries me enough.


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## Spooks

Wow, as mechanical minded as I am I really don't think I have the balls to try a restoration such as this or tothers on here.


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## aaroncornish

I am loving the work going into this machine! Awesome work Jeebsy!!


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## jeebsy

Think we might be good to go with the boiler

Before:

  IMAG1778 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Now:

  IMAG1786 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## Sk8-bizarre

Flipping heck, well done!!


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## aaroncornish

Much better


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## 4515

You're not messing about. Great work ! Looking forward to seeing the end result


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## jeebsy

This is shite. Someone get me an assembled machine.


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## funinacup

3 Group aurelia here


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## jeebsy

Don't know if the pipes distort slightly during descaling (unlikely) or if i bent them being a fanny (likely) but quite a new needed a bit of persuasion to go back on. There was lot of swearing, tightening things, untightening things, swearing at the parts drawings, more tightening, bending and swearing

  IMAG1792 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Everything is only hand tightened for now, going to get someone (funinacup) to give it a sense check before tightening fully, getting the electronics on and checking for leaks.

There's a gap in the pipes:

  IMAG1791 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Where part 11 should be:

  IMAG1781 by wjheenan, on Flickr

which is a bit mysterious.

Midnight now and got nine stainless panels to prep before bed....


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## funinacup

Dat long steam wand tho...


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## jeebsy

It's ajust a wee extension that makes it longer, easily removable. The one of the left is missing it


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## jeebsy

Just dropped the panels off at the coaters - finished them at 2am. The guy seemed relatively pleased with the prep so hopefully they'll take a good coat.

Hopefully a local supplier have the solenoid in stock so will pop out at lunch and pick one up.

And Santa is coming tonight







:act-up:


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> and santa is coming tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :act-up:


santaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!


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## aaroncornish

What is santa bringing?


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## 4085

Anyone like to punt at what this would have cost to have done professionally? I guess the cost of parts added to the labour charge would mean a brand new one would make more sense. I admire anyone who can take this sort of thing on, but at the same time, I am glad I am not that man!


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## jeebsy

aaroncornish said:


> What is santa bringing?


A Mythos One Clima Pro



dfk41 said:


> Anyone like to punt at what this would have cost to have done professionally? I guess the cost of parts added to the labour charge would mean a brand new one would make more sense. I admire anyone who can take this sort of thing on, but at the same time, I am glad I am not that man!


So far I've spent relatively little on it so i'm hoping to come in well under the cost of a working second hand one. Maybe spent 12 hours stripping, cleaning, prepping panels for powder coating etc -I have a lot of time to throw at this, and my time is cheap compared to a professional.

If the electronics are fecked when its powered up it might be a write off though


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## bronc

jeebsy said:


> A Mythos One Clima Pro


Santa is very generous. You must have been a good boy.


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## Mr O

jeebsy said:


> A Mythos One Clima Pro


Mate you stripping that too?


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## jeebsy

Mr O said:


> Mate you stripping that too?


Not a chance


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> Not a chance


Jessy!


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## jeebsy

funinacup said:


> Jessy!


We can strip yours down for practice


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> We can strip yours down for practice


That's my cover blown


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## Jon

I'm sure the Clima Pro must get a powder coating?!?

Surely nothing you own hasn't been powder coated?


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## jeebsy

jonc said:


> I'm sure the Clima Pro must get a powder coating?!?
> 
> Surely nothing you own hasn't been powder coated?


- It looks cool as eff as it is - doesn't really need pimped

- It's black so the Rancilio is getting coated black to match

- I'm not losing my warranty to get it coated when it doesn't really need it


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## Jon

jeebsy said:


> - I'm not losing my warranty to get it coated when it doesn't really need it


Like anything else did


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## bronc

Your equipment deserves its own shop not a stall on the farmers' market. Food for thought..


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## jeebsy

Course it did....


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## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Course it did....


That's what I tell myself too: "I *need* this commercial grinder in my house", etc.


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## jeebsy

bronc said:


> Your equipment deserves its own shop not a stall on the farmers' market. Food for thought..


There was a wee unit available for £400 a month with no rates that I considered but it's gone now. You could just open that at weekends and probably make enough to cover your costs, and even if you didn't you wouldn't lose that much. Hard to make the leap when you've got a mortgage/full time job etc but that would have been a good avenue.


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## froggystyle

A thought, have you checked the available wattage on your market stall hook up?

Whats the Rancilio running at average 1500w, then the grinder is running at 800 to 1000w ?

I know the hook up at the marine where our boat is stored trips out if i plug anything to heavy in, hopefully the counil give you plenty of juice?


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## jeebsy

Should be ok, got a 16a feed, have had kettle+ek+k30+brewtus pulling shots and steaming and full pelt before with boo issues


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## Thecatlinux

Not an issue as you can apply diversity to the equation , (all your items won't be on at the same time )


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## froggystyle

I think this is correct,

16(A) x 240(V) = 3840(W)

These are at peak obviously

3kw for the Rancilio

1kw for the Mythos

1kw for the bonavita

Need to be careful if all are peak at the same time.


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## jeebsy

The kettle is usually on 'hold' ie just keeping water at the right temp rather than heating agressively so that shouldn't be too bad.

EK is only on intermittently

The boiler element is 3kw with the machine being 3400 so not sure what that will work out at with one loop disconnected. Should be able to snaffle a second feed if it became necessary though


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## froggystyle

Solar powered machines....

Its the future*

*But not in scotland.


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## Mrboots2u

Thecatlinux said:


> Not an issue as you can apply diversity to the equation , (all your items won't be on at the same time )


I am unsure how they would be of help....

View attachment 14585


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## Thecatlinux

Mrboots2u said:


> I am unsure how they would be of help....
> 
> View attachment 14585


they keep the crowd entertained while jeebsy goes to reset the trip switch


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## funinacup

I'm fidgety as anything!


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## jeebsy

View attachment 14586


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## aaroncornish

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14586


Boom!


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## Jon

Even the hopper is cool.


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## Daren

jonc said:


> Even the hopper is cool.


Everything is cool!!!! (including the menacing eyes in the reflection)


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## urbanbumpkin

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14586


It does look like there's a miniature man inside it peering out.


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## Daren

urbanbumpkin said:


> It does look like there's a miniature man inside it peering out.


No - the grinder is massive. That's Jeebsy full size. You should see the 18 inch burrs on this bad boy


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## urbanbumpkin

Daren said:


> No - the grinder is massive. That's Jeebsy full size. You should see the 18 inch burrs on this bad boy


Giant grinder, over sized espresso machine, ........all we need is an Olympic sized basket and the dream of the worlds largest coffee could be in our grasp.


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## urbanbumpkin

Daren said:


> No - the grinder is massive. That's Jeebsy full size. You should see the 18 inch burrs on this bad boy


Maybe it's got tank tracks on it and he drove it back from Rave grinding all in its path....no wonder he didn't get back till gone 11pm.

.....I really must stop taking hallucinogenic on a school night


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## Mr O

I love the 'short' hopper on these....

The bigger one, although more functional for your use looks shite.... IMO!! (just keep refilling the short one)

Nice grinder btw.


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## jeebsy

Short hopper takes over a kilo which is plenty, just keep topping it up.

The delivery on it is superb. Bit slower than the K30 at around 6.5 secs for 18g but i'll live with that for the other benefits

  VIDEO0076 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy

IMAG1797 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1798 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## The Systemic Kid

Nice.


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## jeebsy

Doesn't fit in my kitchen.


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## Daren

jeebsy said:


> Doesn't fit in my kitchen.


Give it to me then. I've got a tiny blade grinder you can use


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## urbanbumpkin

Looks really nice Jeebsy.


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## jeebsy

when i removed the panels i put them in coatable and not coatable piles. Found one that is actually coatable in the not coatable pile tonight so for the third time in as many days i'll be cycling to the powder coaters in the morning and hoping they haven't done the other ones yet. The guy is going to be sick of the sight of me


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## Daren

Have they said when they'll be ready Jeebsy? When do you think you'll have it ready for the stall?


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## hotmetal

Depends if they've coated the uncoatable.


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## Daren

I'm getting excited!


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## jeebsy

Daren said:


> Have they said when they'll be ready Jeebsy? When do you think you'll have it ready for the stall?


I'm doing an event this weekend (https://twitter.com/EagBeerFest) but even if the panels came back tomorrow i'm not sure i'd trust the machine yet - providing a couple of parts come in tomorrow's post it'll be fired up and tested for leaks etc but would want a few days of running it in the house to make sure it's up to a service. Got a farmer's market on the 14th and it would be nice if it was working for that, but being realistic it might need more parts.

Turnaround at the coater's is three days usually, but i did the prep for them this time so maybe tomorrow isn't out of the question


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## jeebsy

Dropped the panel off, guy looked slightly amused to see me standing there waiting for him to open for the third day in a row.

I've to phone at 3pm as there's an outside chance they might be done today but he said not to expect it. Think he'll rush them through just to get me away from the place.


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## jeebsy

Parts have arrived from espressotechno so will get it switched on today probably, come on powder coaters


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## jeebsy

No panels until Monday


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## Jon

Sad times.


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## CallumT

Your cracking on with this no excuses! jeez...

All is looking great.


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## Brewer in training

jeebsy said:


> No panels until Monday


Better to get them RIGHT than to have them early and be disappointed............

Mine have been away for a month now. But I am an INCREDIBLY fussy f=%£@r........

But it's just adds to the excitement........

The leaks are easier to spot without the panels as well........... That was part of the plan wasn't it?


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## Thecatlinux

Check my plug connections before you plug it in , I had had rather a lot of caffeine that day.


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## jeebsy

Michael was just round so got everything tightened up and powered it up....it filled up, got water out each group, the volumetrics do something (they dispense a set amount then stop) but no heat. Need to get a multi meter, learn how to use it then check continuity.

A probe looking thing from the element was touching one of the connecters for the loops, there was a small bang and everything tripped but doesn't appear to have done any permanent damage.

Pretty pleased with that, only leaks are from the HX pipes but there's no heat so no pressure, sure more will appear once the heating issue is solved.

  IMAG1816 by wjheenan, on Flickr

And when one Clima Pro just isn't enough

  IMAG1815 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## Mrboots2u

two of those grinders on , should keep the flat warm


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## bronc

This is a pretty good guide to check if the element is shorted or not: http://www.orphanespresso.com/Olympia-and-La-Pavoni-Shorted-Heating-Element-Repair_ep_620-1.html


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## jeebsy

Mrboots2u said:


> two of those grinders on , should keep the flat warm












And on the other side of the kitchen...


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## bronc

I have a friend in Glasgow. I think I just decided I'm visiting him for the weekend.


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## funinacup

Mrboots2u said:


> two of those grinders on , should keep the flat warm


My grinder was sweating, the fan was on for ages


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> there was a small bang


yolo


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## jeebsy

Got a multimeter now, time to diagnose this bitch


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## risky

Is that the Victoria grinder that was on eBay for half price but allegedly unused? Is it funinacup's? How is it?

Sorry to derail your thread.


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## jeebsy

> 1. Check the resistance of the element by setting your meter on OHMS and placing the probes on the element terminals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This test should give a stable reading (for a Cremina 12.5-12.8 ohms) but most important is that the reading is STABLE......if this reading wanders and fails to stabilize this may mean that the element is actually burned and cannot be repaired.
> ​​


I didn't pay any attention in physics so let me know if i'm doing this wrong.

Multimeter set like this:

  IMAG1821 by wjheenan, on Flickr

My element terminals are set up like this:

  IMAG1819 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Some are stable sometimes,others aren't then are

My multimeter skills probably need somework


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## GCGlasgow

At the rate your going you'll probably have done a degree in electrical engineering by Monday. Great to watch the progress.


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## jeebsy

Checked again and pretty sure the readings are stable


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## Thecatlinux

Three pairs of elements probably 1Kw each just check for continuity to work out the three pairs

any one of those pairs should have no continuity between them and earth , not the correct tester for the job for testing insulation resistance but I would assume there is no reason to believe an element has blown ,

Is there a picture of what you shorted to earth ?


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## espressotechno

The 3 terminals running vertically on the left are "+" and the 3 on the left are "-". Just set the meter to read resistance & test each + & - pair, working downwards: a good element will give a resistance of around 50 ohms.

Also test the resistance between one pole & the metal base to see if any element is shorting to earth.


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## Rhys

Mrboots2u said:


> two of those grinders on , should keep the flat warm


Why have two when one will do?


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## jeebsy

espressotechno said:


> The 3 terminals running vertically on the left are "+" and the 3 on the left are "-". Just set the meter to read resistance & test each + & - pair, working downwards: a good element will give a resistance of around 50 ohms.
> 
> Also test the resistance between one pole & the metal base to see if any element is shorting to earth.


Got readings of about 55 per pair. I'll check them against earth after dinner


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## El carajillo

espressotechno said:


> The 3 terminals running vertically on the left are "+" and the 3 on the left are "-". Just set the meter to read resistance & test each + & - pair, working downwards: a good element will give a resistance of around 50 ohms.
> 
> Also test the resistance between one pole & the metal base to see if any element is shorting to earth.


TYPO on first line ? vertically left are "+" and 3 on the RIGHT are"-" ??


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## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> Is there a picture of what you shorted to earth ?



View attachment 14631


This thing from inside the element


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## jeebsy

IMAG1825 by wjheenan, on Flickr

The board is beeping, think it's trying to tell me something but can't read lights

Didn't get any significant readings measuring volts or resistance between the poles and the earth


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## froggystyle

It's telling you to find Sarah Connor !!


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## froggystyle

And also that it will be back!


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## jeebsy

froggystyle said:


> And also that it will be back!


Funny but not helpful


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## Thecatlinux

froggystyle said:


> it's telling you to find sarah connor !!


pmsl


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## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14631
> 
> 
> This thing from inside the element


is there a hard piece of copper like wire thing ( capillary ) attached to the end of that ,? If yes try not to bend it about too much .


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## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> is there a hard piece of copper like wire thing ( capillary ) attached to the end of that ,? If yes try not to bend it about too much .


Yeah there's a few inches where it's bare before the plastic insulation starts, that's what touched the spade from the element


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## Thecatlinux

What's at the other end of the capillary ? A gauge or something else?


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## Thecatlinux

Also thinking about it you must have or had power going to the elements for it to short out , so the machine is or was trying to heat up .


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## jeebsy

View attachment 14632


This is at the end of the probe thing










Are these supposed to be off? Could they have tripped or something when it shorted?


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## Thecatlinux

Sorry bud can't make out from the first pic too much and appreciate you are away from the machine at the moment.

yeah sure it may have tripped or 'popped ' something . like I said you must have had power at the element for this to have happened , if you put the multimeter on the elements when you get home and see if there is a voltage there.

top tip for you and not telling you how too suck eggs re multimeter always prove the meter first before using it to take a reading . When you set meter to volts and plug the leads in . Use the probes to test something on the machine you know that has mains voltage (close to where the power comes in ) That way you know the instrument you are using is telling you the truth.


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## Thecatlinux

Good chance that capillary may be a temp control , safety cut out or high limit if so may have killed power to elements .


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## jeebsy

Haha tell me how to suck eggs, don't have a clue what I'm doing with the multimeter. @funinacup had to tell me to turn the machine on to test power last night! That wee box in the pic has what looks like a red switch inside the bolt but it didn't really move much when I pushed it. Will have a closer look later


----------



## aaroncornish

Those blue switches look like standard dip switches to me, so not sure they could switch themselves off as such.

They are normally used for programming settings, no idea what in this case. Sorry


----------



## bronc

Wall of text but see if this helps. I've marked the beginning of the (most) relevant part (or not) in red. Link to the pdf: https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/assets/user-manuals/rancilio/rancilio-classe6-user-manual.pdf This might come in handy as well: http://www.coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/media/Rancilio_Manuals/User_Manuals/MAN_CL6_old.pdf (English start around p. 50)



> *10.2. Auto-test components*
> 
> Electronic card E 06 foresees auto-testing
> 
> with which it is possible to verify operation of the
> 
> electric/electronic components of the machine one
> 
> by one.
> 
> In order to utilise this function it is necessary to enter
> 
> the electronic card by dismantling the left panel of the
> 
> machine (a descriptive label of the auto-test function
> 
> is attached to the inside of the panel).
> 
> The sequence is guided by means of the display at
> 
> the centre of the electronic card.
> 
> Since the auto-test is carried out on the open
> 
> machine, be careful not to touch the parts
> 
> under voltage.
> 
> To enter the auto-test menu proceed as follows:
> 
> - Switch off the machine.
> 
> - Keeping push button A of the first group pressed
> 
> (fig. 8) switch on the machine.
> 
> - Push buttons A, B, C and D (fig. 8) light up and
> 
> the card display indicates 0 (auto-test menu in
> 
> operation).
> 
> In this menu only push buttons A, B, C, D of the first
> 
> group operate with the following functions:
> 
> A = Push button + (increases the number/letter corresponding
> 
> to the component to be activated).
> 
> B = Push button - (decreases the number/letter corresponding
> 
> to the component to be activated).
> 
> C = Enter (component activation).
> 
> D = ESC (quit component activation).
> 
> During activation of the component, the display point
> 
> will flash.
> 
> Each value indicated on the display corresponds to
> 
> the auto-test of the following components:
> 
> 0 = auto-test ON
> 
> 1 = electro-valve group 1 (ON for 3 seconds)
> 
> 2 = electro-valve group 2 (ON for 3 seconds) (*)
> 
> 3 = electro-valve group 3 (ON for 3 seconds) (*)
> 
> 4 = electro-valve hot water supply
> 
> (ON for 3 seconds) (*)
> 
> 5 = electro-valve charge (ON for 3 seconds)
> 
> 6 = pump motor (ON for 3 seconds)
> 
> 7 = 1st heater resistance element (ON for 5 seconds)
> 
> (**)
> 
> 8 = 2nd heater resistance element (ON for 5 seconds)
> 
> (**)
> 
> 9 = 3rd heater resistance element (ON for 5 seconds)
> 
> (**)
> 
> 10. ADVANCED FUNCTIONS ELECTRONIC
> 
> CARD E06
> 
> 10.1. Heater pressure regulation from pushbutton
> 
> panel
> 
> With card E06 it is possible to regulate heater pressure
> 
> directly from the push-button panel without any
> 
> need whatsoever of a technician to intervene on the
> 
> internal electronics of the machine
> 
> This is possible thanks to an electronic pressure transducer
> 
> that detects heater pressure in real time.
> 
> To enter the regulation menu proceed as follows:
> 
> - Switch off the machine.
> 
> - Keeping push-button E of the first group pressed
> 
> (fig. 8) switch on the machine.
> 
> - Push-buttons A and B will light up to indicate 1-bar
> 
> default regulation.
> 
> In this menu, only push buttons A, B, C, D (fig. 8)
> 
> of the first group are active with the following functions:
> 
> A = Push button + (pressure increase with 0.1-bar
> 
> step).
> 
> B = Push button - (pressure decrease with 0.1-bar
> 
> step).
> 
> C = 1 bar (factory set at 1 bar).
> 
> D = ESC (regulation save and exit from menu).
> 
> To increase pressure
> 
> Press push button A, considering that each time it is
> 
> pressed, heater pressure increases by 0.1-bar step
> 
> up to a maximum 1.4 bars.
> 
> Pressure increases instantly (regulation visible by
> 
> means of heater pressure gauge).
> 
> To decrease pressure
> 
> Press B, considering that each time it is pressed
> 
> pressure decreases in real time by 0.1 bar step to a
> 
> maximum of 0.6 bars.
> 
> Opening the steam head, the new pressure regulation
> 
> can be assessed immediately by means of the heater
> 
> pressure gauge.
> 
> Push buttons A and B flash to indicate setting of
> 
> heater pressure as follows:
> 
> LED PUSH
> 
> BUTTON A
> 
> LED PUSH
> 
> BUTTON B
> 
> PRESSURE
> 
> [bar]
> 
> ON 4 flashes 0,6
> 
> ON 3 flashes 0,7
> 
> ON 2 flashes 0,8
> 
> ON 1 flash 0,9
> 
> ON ON 1,0
> 
> 1 flash ON 1,1
> 
> 2 flashes ON 1,2
> 
> 3 flashes ON 1,3
> 
> 4 flashes ON 1,4
> 
> 64
> 
> A = push-button panel/LED (pressing each button,
> 
> the corresponding LED flashes)
> 
> B = volumetric meter group 1 (100-pulse supply)
> 
> C = volumetric meter group 2
> 
> (100-pulse supply) (*)
> 
> D = volumetric meter group 3
> 
> (100-pulse supply) (*)
> 
> E = heater level (water charge if level is not
> 
> sufficient)
> 
> F = pressure transducer (heater resistance ON until
> 
> heater pressure set-point is reached)
> 
> (*) Only for predisposed machines.
> 
> (**) Only for machines with star resistance connection.
> 
> Some of the auto-test operations involve the
> 
> dispensing of hot water and steam; take care
> 
> in order to avoid possible burns.
> 
> Push buttons A and B (fig. 8) scroll display numbers
> 
> and letters after being positioned on the letter corresponding
> 
> to the component to be tested. Press C
> 
> to activate;
> 
> Push-button D quits component activation.
> 
> To quit auto-test menu switch off the machine then
> 
> switch on again.
> 
> Note: Press esc to quit operations A, E and F
> 
> During auto-test, brewing will be interrupted and the
> 
> heater will not be fed (except for test F).
> 
> *10.3. Diagnostic programming*
> 
> Electronic card E 06 allows the operation of diagnostic
> 
> programming with which possible machine
> 
> failures or malfunctions can be signalled.
> 
> In order to utilise this function it is necessary to access
> 
> the electronic card by dismantling the left panel
> 
> of the machine (a descriptive label of the auto-test
> 
> function is attached to the inside of the panel).
> 
> As the use of diagnostic programming is carried
> 
> out on the open machine, take care not
> 
> to touch the parts under voltage).
> 
> Malfunctions are visualised on the display situated
> 
> at the centre of the electronic card.
> 
> Electronic card E 06 allows the operation of diagnostic
> 
> programming with which possible machine
> 
> failures or malfunctions can be signalled.
> 
> In order to utilise this function it is necessary to access
> 
> the electronic card by dismantling the left panel
> 
> of the machine (a descriptive label of the auto-test
> 
> function is attached to the inside of the panel).
> 
> As the use of diagnostic programming is carried out
> 
> on the open machine, take care not to touch the parts
> 
> under voltage).
> 
> Malfunctions are visualised on the display situated
> 
> at the centre of the electronic card
> 
> Possible failures in course are indicated on the
> 
> electronic card display by means of numbers or letters
> 
> (in case of more than one failure simultaneously,
> 
> the corresponding numbers/letters are alternately
> 
> displayed):
> 
> 1 = Time-out Heater filling level: time limit for correct
> 
> heater filling has been exceeded.
> 
> 2 = Time-out Heater pressure set-point: the time
> 
> limit to reach heater pressure set-point has been
> 
> exceeded
> 
> 3 = Electronic card 12Vdc short: short circuit in the
> 
> electronic card E 06
> 
> 4 = Capacity level sensor 12Vdc short: capacity level
> 
> sensor supply has short-circuited. (*).
> 
> 5 = Pressure transducer 12Vdc short: pressure transducer
> 
> supply has short-circuited.
> 
> 6 = Volumetric counter 12Vdc short: short circuit on
> 
> the supply of volumetric counters.
> 
> 7 = 5Vdc push-button panel short: the push-button
> 
> panel has short-circuited.
> 
> 8 = Transducer/probe short on output signal: short
> 
> circuit on output signal from the pressure temperature
> 
> probe / transducer.
> 
> 9 = Open transducer/probe signal: the output signal
> 
> from the temperature probe/transducer has been
> 
> interrupted.
> 
> A = Absence of volumetric counter impulses group
> 
> 1: the volumetric counter of the first group is not
> 
> transmitting impulses to the electronic card.
> 
> B = Absence of volumetric counter impulses group 2:
> 
> the volumetric counter of the second group is not
> 
> transmitting impulses to the electronic card. (*).
> 
> C = Absence of volumetric counter impulses group
> 
> 3: the volumetric counter of the third group is not
> 
> transmitting impulses to the electronic card (*).
> 
> (*) Only for predisposed machines.
> 
> The failures identified by numbers 1 to 9 block
> 
> machine utilisation. Apart from the failure being indicated
> 
> on the display, the push-button panel LED
> 
> will flash simultaneously informing the user of the
> 
> malfunction.
> 
> After having identified and resolved the failure,
> 
> switch the machine off and then on again for normal
> 
> utilisation.
> 
> NOTE: The problems identified with the letters A, B
> 
> and C do not interrupt the functions of the machine.
> 
> They are identified on the display and during dispensing
> 
> from the corresponding group, the LED of the
> 
> button pressed will flash.


----------



## espressotechno

That box is cintains the reset button for the element overheat sensor ( the capillary tube sitting inside the element tube). Press the red button HARD to reset it.

If the box is faulty, you can just bypass it temporarily, for benchtesting purposes .....

Don't start changing the blue dipswitch settings yet ! They're unlikely to have been altered by the previous owner, and changing them is a "last-ditch" attempt.


----------



## jeebsy

Broke the sensor wire when reconnecting the element - it snapped at the point that got scorched when it touched the terminal so think it might have got brittle after that (although my cack-handedness was still to blame for the shorting). Got a parts delay while we get a replacement now unfortunately - unless @espressotechno - can i bypass for now even if the probe is broken?


----------



## Jon

Maybe funinacup will let you keep the linea. Maybe?


----------



## jeebsy

Linea was rock solid but looking forward to trying my wee baby out once it's ready. Two groups, volumetrics, internal pump, under 55kgs. Hubba hubba


----------



## Jon

We're all watching in anticipation! I read a thread about volumetrics earlier that seemed to suggest they do some cleverness - I forget the exact details because I'm deliriously tired thanks to my five week old girl - anyway is it just a set volume of liquid or is it cleverer?


----------



## espressotechno

Jeebsy - pull the capillary tube out & away from the element terminals; wrap it in insulating tape to keep it safe. The box has 4 leads, I think - just pull them off the box in pairs of the same colour & connect these same colour pairs together (ie brown to brown), thus isolating the box. The power then flows directly to the boiler element.

New overheat unit readily available (the Rancilio one is semi-generic)


----------



## jeebsy

espressotechno said:


> Jeebsy - pull the capillary tube out & away from the element terminals; wrap it in insulating tape to keep it safe


How come? Does the new overheat unit not come with one?


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> How come? Does the new overheat unit not come with one?


Without stealing someone's (espresso techno ) parade but wanting to see you get on , that is to bypass the unit for now so you can run up the machine .

*just read your your post in a different way so ignore this one if not relevant


----------



## jeebsy

Is the capillary is the actual probe thing? If so it's snapped off from the overheat unit now so not sure what wrapped it in tape would do unless i need a to use it again?


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Is the capillary is the actual probe thing? If so it's snapped off from the overheat unit now so not sure what wrapped it in tape would do unless i need a to use it again?


if it is snapped , you ain't using it again , it's only value is decoration or scrap


----------



## jeebsy

Could get a few and make a wind chime


----------



## jeebsy

Best way to jump two spade terminals?


----------



## Thecatlinux

two spade connectors with Tri rated cable linking them together


----------



## jeebsy

Was hoping you'd say tape them together or shove a paperclip between them, your solution involves a trip to Maplin


----------



## El carajillo

Look jeebsy, you have done level one NVQ blowing it up To move to level two NVQ "repairing" it you have to go and buy the level two "starter" kit.







:exit:

Did the capillary / probe have a fitting /connection on the end OR did it terminate into the box. If so it may be a complete unit required.


----------



## jeebsy

El carajillo said:


> Look jeebsy, you have done level one NVQ blowing it up To move to level two NVQ "repairing" it you have to go and buy the level two "starter" kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :exit:


And in light of that I'll just wait for the next part to arrive if it'll only be a day or two

View attachment 14682


Need a whole new unit I think but they're not too dear. The wire was pretty scorched so think replacing it regardless would have been wise


----------



## Thecatlinux

It's not a wire as such but a rod inside a sealed tube it works by the different expansion rates of two different metals, if the tube gets fractured or damaged (kinked) it won't work correctly .

judging by the reset button it is probably a high limit safety device which disconnects the supply to the heating should other components fail. Very prudent to have this in place as an exploding steam boiler would be a devastating and catastrophic event and with the side casing of the machine removed possible fatal .

Sounds dramatic but a steam boiler can be a very thing dangerous when things go wrong.


----------



## El carajillo

Yes it is a high limit safety device across all three elements.


----------



## Thecatlinux

El carajillo said:


> Yes it is a high limit safety device across all three elements.


Quite important then ! A bit akin to an ejector seat LOL


----------



## El carajillo

Thecatlinux said:
 

> Quite important then ! A bit akin to an ejector seat LOL


I don't think the ejector seat would be fast enough for the boiler going "POP" Eject ,Eject , Eject The last two are echo's I am long gone you are steaming on your own.


----------



## Dallah

jeebsy said:


> - It looks cool as eff as it is - doesn't really need pimped
> 
> - It's black so the Rancilio is getting coated black to match
> 
> - I'm not losing my warranty to get it coated when it doesn't really need it


Surely the Clima Pro would look boss in Jeebsy orange.


----------



## TomBurtonArt

ridland said:


> Surely the Clima Pro would look boss in Jeebsy orange.


It might be Jeebsy red if he bypasses the overheat sensor and pops the boiler.

Good work Jeebsy, puts my efforts/progress to shame.


----------



## jeebsy

ridland said:


> Surely the Clima Pro would look boss in Jeebsy orange.


It would, but i don't want to take it apart and risk anything not quite going back together properly. It's an absolute dream to use.


----------



## jeebsy

Panels.

  IMAG1842 by wjheenan, on Flickr

The black is so flat. That's the upper back panel and the group covers. Love it.


----------



## aaroncornish

Looks very smart! Nice finish


----------



## froggystyle

That does look sweet!


----------



## jeebsy

Got a new element overload/thermal protection thingymabob but when i hit the switch for power to the element it (or something close to it) makes a 'click' noise.

Someone who knows what they're doing is coming round for a butchers tomorrow so going to leave it alone until then in case i blow it up again.


----------



## 4515

Looking good

I understand that this is now known in the trade as Jeebsy orange


----------



## jeebsy

working dog said:


> Looking good
> 
> I understand that this is now known in the trade as Jeebsy orange




__
http://instagr.am/p/2GF3juGKO8/

Another Glasgow shop is trying to appropriate it


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Got a new element overload/thermal protection thingymabob but when i hit the switch for power to the element it (or something close to it) makes a 'click' noise.
> 
> Someone who knows what they're doing is coming round for a butchers tomorrow so going to leave it alone until then in case i blow it up again.


You should of said I have loads of thingamabobs, udgermaflips , doofers , whatchamacallit 's and some bobs your uncles LOL


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/2GF3juGKO8/
> 
> Another Glasgow shop is trying to appropriate it


sue them !!


----------



## 4515

Thecatlinux said:


> sue them !!


I'd be on to one of those 'no win no fee' parasites already


----------



## Spooks

Panel looks ace @Jeebsy Hope you get it sorted soon


----------



## jeebsy

Papercup got me in to decent coffee, I can cede a little bit of orange to them. Maybe.


----------



## jeebsy

Help me out troops. Got a 3/8 female on the end of the hose I want to connect to the 15mm check valve. Bought a 3/8 to 15mm reducer without thinking I would end up with two make connections. How can I make this fit?


----------



## jeebsy

Tap connector maybe? Must be another way though http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Flexible+Connectors/sd2807/Flexible+Tap+Connector/p86006


----------



## Thecatlinux

http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/compression-adaptor-15mm-x-3-8-male-iron-straight?gclid=CJy2zqe6g8YCFXQatAodZ1cAhA#.VXdNKXB4WrU


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/compression-adaptor-15mm-x-3-8-male-iron-straight?gclid=CJy2zqe6g8YCFXQatAodZ1cAhA#.VXdNKXB4WrU


Got one of them already, means i end up with two male 15mm connections


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Got one of them already, means i end up with two male 15mm connections


if they are compression fittings each end then a small piece of pipe between will cure it ????


----------



## jeebsy

Just ran the diagnostics and its heating up. OMG


----------



## Jon

Cool.


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Just ran the diagnostics and its heating up. OMG


you might make the ten o'clock news then ,

defo got to post a video of you pulling a shot ,


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> you might make the ten o'clock news then ,
> 
> defo got to post a video of you pulling a shot ,


Make the news because the boiler overheats and goes flying through someone's window


----------



## Thecatlinux

I am afraid that's what I was thinking


----------



## El carajillo

What is the fitting on the stop/ shut off valve ? 15 mm copper compression or 3/4 " washing M/ch fitting ?

What is in the end of the hose ? flat or cone shape ? does the 3/8" reducer match the pipe end fitting ?

If the shut off is 15 mm copper you can use a short stub of copper pipe with olive and compression nut (already fitted ?) and use an olive and comp/ nut on 15 mm end of reducer.

If the shut off is W/mch fitting you will need a 15 mm compression to 3/4 " tap adapter and use a stub of copper pipe to the 15 mm end of the reducer.

Is the click from a solenoid or from the over heat safety ?


----------



## jeebsy

Anti vac isn't popping. Can see a few leaky bits but thought it'd still come up to pressure


----------



## jeebsy

Took it out of diagnostic mode and into full on and it heated up and pressurised, but there's a major leak out one the steam valves. Need to address that once it's cooled down.

Board is still beeping when its in standby, and it shows 2 on startup which is apparently 'time-out set point boiler'. Not sure if that's what it's trying to tell me, or if it just gives off a slight beep when its on

Got new washers for the HX pipes and they've stopped leaking. Bit of action out the hot water tap and other steam wand then i turned it off. Groups going fine and warming up.

Wasn't expecting to get that far tonight. YYAAAASSS


----------



## Thecatlinux

It's alive

View attachment 14726


----------



## jeebsy

If i can get the steam tap tightened up i reckon it's good for a shot


----------



## jeebsy

Issues now:

Board is beeping, feel like it's trying to communicate something

Can't program volumetrics - lights on the buttons flash in cycle - related to beeping board? (espressotechno just told me i've been trying to program wrong though so this may be a non issue)

Left steam wand connection isn't tight (have tightened it - pipe was bent slightly so wasn't sitting straight)

The power on LED, heating element power LED and orange boiler heating lamp aren't working

But shit, it's sort of working


----------



## jeebsy

IMAG1847 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Drip tray action


----------



## TomBurtonArt

You need a reducer fitting. There are lots on ebay, just make sure you get the correct thread type.


----------



## jeebsy

15mm to 3/8 reducers seem to be hard to come by. Think a tap connector might do the job, going to swing by Screwfix after work.


----------



## jeebsy

Beast


----------



## The Systemic Kid

It breathes.


----------



## Thecatlinux

Keep doing that and you'll be rewallpapering this weekend .


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14736


First attempt at steaming milk

View attachment 14737


Pour

Then was standing back admiring the volumetrics when the safety valve blew and a volcano of steam came out the top of the machine


----------



## The Systemic Kid

jeebsy said:


> Then was standing back admiring the volumetrics when the safety valve blew and a volcano of steam came out the top of the machine


Video of that would have been priceless.


----------



## Xpenno

I was watching this thread for the rebuild, now I'm watching it for the danger value!!!


----------



## jeebsy

The Systemic Kid said:


> Video of that would have been priceless.


I absolutely cacked my pants, had to be peeled down off the ceiling.

Just had an engineer round who said the machine is running pretty good, one solenoid is dispensing slightly less than the other so need to take it apart to inspect.

The boiler keeps creeping up to 1.5 which is why the safety is popping. The board isn't recognising the pressure stat thing and gives the same error code whether the stat is connected or not so think the stat is faulty.


----------



## Thecatlinux

On the plus side it's producing heat , and you found out the safety valve works , all going in the right direction, can't wait to see this up and with the panels on .

Good effort mate ,


----------



## jeebsy

And don't forget I pulled a shot and put milk all over the walls


----------



## El carajillo

Is there a centre screw on the pressure stat you can adjust ??


----------



## jeebsy

No it's electronic, and it wasn't responding to control from the board


----------



## bronc

At least now you know that the safety valve works.


----------



## jeebsy

The error message on the board that comes up on start-up was related to boiler pressure too so that makes sense


----------



## jeebsy

Took the plastic bits round a couple of body shops yesterday to get a price to get them sprayed. First guy took ages explaining to me what a hard job it was and how it would take a long time and given his location he's got to pay his guys a high hourly rate - then quote me 'at least' £180.

Went to a body shop in a less salubrious part of town and the gaffer just went 'Aye we can do them - about 30 quid - be ready tomorrow night?'


----------



## Thecatlinux

There are salubrious parts to Glasgow ?

(meant in jest please don't send the sweaties round )

(I'm digging a hole now


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> There are salubrious parts to Glasgow ?


It's all relative

PS the men in skirts will be round to pay you a visit later


----------



## Brewer in training

jeebsy said:


> It's all relative
> 
> PS the men in skirts will be round to pay you a visit later


You should send the women...... That'll teach him some manners!


----------



## jeebsy

After my brief flirtation with a working machine last night i'm really excited about getting this up and running properly.

Going to do some more shots tonight and play with the volumetrics, just need to remember to keep an eye on the steam pressure.

Panels probably going back on tomorrow night.


----------



## Daren

Come on Jeebs... I need more Rancilio action...


----------



## jeebsy

Pulled a couple of shots on it tonight, one was a 60 second 30 out number that had the pump making weird noises, the other i pushed the wrong button for the volumetrics and it stopped after about five seconds but cracked on like a trooper, not bad shot considering. Did a couple of milks too and managed to keep it in the jug.

Got a couple of bits to pick up tomorrow, would love it if the machine was up and running properly for Saturday.

Collecting the plastic panels on the way to work tomorrow so should be looking all prim and proper for tea time tomorrow.


----------



## Milanski

Not checked in for a little while and came across this thread.

Had to read right through from page one. Love it.

You're a proper trooper Jeebsy.

Lovin' the Clima Pro also. Awesome.


----------



## jeebsy

Untitled by wjheenan, on Flickr

Ignore the scabby badge for now, need to work out what i'm doing with that


----------



## Milanski

Class(e 6)!


----------



## Milanski

Is that powder coat round the group gonna stay put if you ***** it too many times with your pf?


----------



## jeebsy

Milanski said:


> Is that powder coat round the group gonna stay put if you ***** it too many times with your pf?


Probably not but time will tell. Anyone using under the machine will be under strict instructions not to bang the group cover.


----------



## jeebsy

In saying that though my bike is still in pretty good nick, even in the areas the lock gets knocked against the frame


----------



## Thecatlinux

Looking so much different to how it was two weeks ago , when I first clapped eyes on it I thought you'd bitten off my more than you can chew , I am amazed at your effort and determination to get this sorted and I am sure if you apply the same amount of energy into running your stall you are going to do very well indeed .

10 out of 10 for effort buddy and I am sure many others are enjoying your posts about your progress as much as I am. .


----------



## Daren

jeebsy said:


> Ignore the scabby badge for now, need to work out what i'm doing with that


Thats crying out for some Jeebsy orange!

Orange background with white letters would be cool


----------



## jeebsy

Daren said:


> Thats crying out for some Jeebsy orange!
> 
> Orange background with white letters would be cool


Got some custom stickers/graphics coming for the buttons and they're white and orange so that might work. The front needs brightened up a bit, it's pretty Darth Vader


----------



## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Got some custom stickers/graphics coming for the buttons and they're white and orange so that might work. The front needs brightened up a bit, it's pretty Darth Vader


Looks AWESOME.


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14778


Side panels. Bit shiny but they'll contrast the matt.

And.....

View attachment 14779


Ta da!


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14779
> 
> 
> Ta da!


oh one of them , got a box full of them


----------



## jeebsy

That's a 3/8 hose, to a 3/4 inch, to a 1/2 inch, to a 1/2 inch.check valve. Got a box full of bits the wrong size to show for my efforts


----------



## Xpenno

jeebsy said:


> That's a 3/8 hose, to a 3/4 inch, to a 1/2 inch, to a 1/2 inch.check valve. Got a box full of bits the wrong size to show for my efforts


The one thing that really annoyed me when pluming was the fact that there are obviously unwritten rules about converting between certain sizes and connectors. I thought I was asking a simple question in the plumbing store and the assistant looked like I'd shot his dog!


----------



## jeebsy

Three times I bought bits and thought 'that'll definitely do it' only for them to arrive and find they didn't. Part of that is my own stupidity but it shouldn't be that hard.


----------



## Daren

Let's see it then! I've waited all week for this


----------



## jeebsy

Daren said:


> Let's see it then! I've waited all week for this


It's not working, you'll have to wait a bit longer

New pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9 - output signal from temp probe/transducer has been interrupted

New pressure stat and old wire and it heats up but keeps going overpressure

Old pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9

Old stat and old wire and it heats up but goes overpressure

Not sure what to deduce from that


----------



## jeebsy

Have a picture with the side bits on though

View attachment 14800


----------



## Daren

This is going to be classy


----------



## Mr O

Sure gonna be a stunner when it's up n brewing.....


----------



## jeebsy

Have a wee rear 3/4 view seeing as I have nothing better to do with my Friday night

View attachment 14801


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14802


----------



## The Systemic Kid

Looking really classy, Jeebsy.


----------



## Daren

Looks better than new imho


----------



## jeebsy

Think that and the clima pro will look shit hot together


----------



## jeebsy

Daren said:


> Looks better than new imho


Once all the panels are on it'll look better still.

Almost at the point of just paying to get an engineer out to fix it, impatience is starting to kick in.


----------



## jeebsy

Although only got £25 of budget left which might be prohibitive for an engineer, although what self-respecting project ever ran on budget?


----------



## Brewer in training

jeebsy said:


> Although only got £25 of budget left which might be prohibitive for an engineer, although what self-respecting project ever ran on budget?


New Wembley overran on time and money and is shite......

The Emirates stadium was on time and under budget and is great........

But I know what you mean.....

Isn't "The Budget" what you tell the Mrs what it cost?


----------



## Spooks

Looks great @Jeebsy , hoping you get it up and running without blowing budget "too" much


----------



## Milanski

jeebsy said:


> It's not working, you'll have to wait a bit longer
> 
> New pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9 - output signal from temp probe/transducer has been interrupted
> 
> New pressure stat and old wire and it heats up but keeps going overpressure
> 
> Old pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9
> 
> Old stat and old wire and it heats up but goes overpressure
> 
> Not sure what to deduce from that


Would it be easy enough to try a new bit of wire?

From the above it sounds like both new bits are defective?!?


----------



## risky

Looking sweet. Can't wait to see it up and running and fully 'clothed'


----------



## Pompeyexile

It's looking the dog's Jeebsy and I can't believe how quick you've done it. Don't know about Farmer's Market stall, plastic cups and stick stirrers; your gear will look more in place in a high end establishment serving their Java in porcelain crockery, with metal spoons and comfy chairs to boot! Can you fit those in the back of your jalopy along with your machines? The poshest open air coffee shop in the country.


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> It's not working, you'll have to wait a bit longer
> 
> New pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9 - output signal from temp probe/transducer has been interrupted
> 
> New pressure stat and old wire and it heats up but keeps going overpressure
> 
> Old pressure stat and new wire gives error code 9
> 
> Old stat and old wire and it heats up but goes overpressure
> 
> Not sure what to deduce from that


can if is not to much of an effort post up picture of said items


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14806


New

View attachment 14807


Old

View attachment 14808


This is the 'out' it says doesn't work in some configurations, wire is on other side and they have different ratings (?)?


----------



## Thecatlinux

Where do those wires go too sensor end or board end ?

there is a brown and blue wire in each shot what are they ?

how many wires are there to the stat ?


----------



## jeebsy

Those wires go to board, they join into one connection which goes in the top of the stat. The connection from the board splits into a black connection which is shown and one with the other two on it


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Looking really nice mate, sleek stealth mode!

I have been 'told' (well kinda) to spray my SJ black as otherwise it will got out of fashion. She's usually right though but can't help but thinking of some sort of mask.....Matt black though not shiny for sure. I so wanted to copper plate it but the motor oven thing pffft no chance little bit gutted as copper and chrome looked good in my head.


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Those wires go to board, they join into one connection which goes in the top of the stat. The connection from the board splits into a black connection which is shown and one with the other two on it


sorry dude that's where it is getting confusing , I am trying to think of things as if I was there ,

Firstly the pressure stat must work from more than one wire so the other connections are relative .

I am assuming that it probably works on a variable resistance going back to the circuit board , the error message what you are getting sounds like the board is outputting a fault signal as its information back from the pressure stat is outside its working parameters .

You could have a faulty pressure stat and the new one is not compatible (different working parameters)

the controller (circuit board) has had it configuration changed , this might be possible as I would have thought the pressure may be adjustable , but I don't know if you have an interface on the machine to talk to the controller .

dont suppose you have a circuit diagram for the machine as this may shed some light on things.

Dont give up buddy , it may look a bit daunting at the moment , but I would say things are looking promising , the controller is pointing out the fault to you all you have to do is diagnose a little bit further to come to a solution .

is the new pressure stat exactly the same as the old one . ( model numbers etc )


----------



## Thecatlinux

Ps is there a particular reason you think the pressure stat is faulty ??


----------



## Thecatlinux

Classe six E or Classe six S ?

http://www.coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/media/Rancilio_Manuals/Tecnical_Manuals/All_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf


----------



## bronc

Should be a 6E


----------



## jeebsy

It's a 6e . With the original stat connected the board would beep, it would get up to temp but keep going and the safety valve would go off as it was going over 1.5 bar. It wouldn't respond when you tried to set boiler pressure.

With the new stat connected it gives the error that it's not getting an output signal from the stat


----------



## El carajillo

Any damage around connection when you shorted out the safety stat /thermocouple ?, Is the transformer giving correct voltage ?


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> sorry dude that's where it is getting confusing , I am trying to think of things as if I was there ,
> 
> Firstly the pressure stat must work from more than one wire so the other connections are relative .
> 
> I am assuming that it probably works on a variable resistance going back to the circuit board , the error message what you are getting sounds like the board is outputting a fault signal as its information back from the pressure stat is outside its working parameters .
> 
> You could have a faulty pressure stat and the new one is not compatible (different working parameters)
> 
> the controller (circuit board) has had it configuration changed , this might be possible as I would have thought the pressure may be adjustable , but I don't know if you have an interface on the machine to talk to the controller .
> 
> dont suppose you have a circuit diagram for the machine as this may shed some light on things.
> 
> Dont give up buddy , it may look a bit daunting at the moment , but I would say things are looking promising , the controller is pointing out the fault to you all you have to do is diagnose a little bit further to come to a solution .
> 
> is the new pressure stat exactly the same as the old one . ( model numbers etc )


The new stat is exactly the same, the wire for the out is slightly different as explained above though



El carajillo said:


> Any damage around connection when you shorted out the safety stat /thermocouple ?, Is the transformer giving correct voltage ?


That's on the other side of the machine. The element protection thing itself has been changed and the only other thing involved was one of the boiler element connections that seems fine, doesn't show any errors during diagnostics


----------



## jeebsy

Swapped that connection to the other side of the black cable and it's not showing an output error any more. Waiting to see if it regulates the pressure or if it just overheats again


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Swapped that connection to the other side of the black cable and it's not showing an output error any more. Waiting to see if it regulates the pressure or if it just overheats again


is there a pressure gauge so you can keep an eye on things ?

Be careful


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> is there a pressure gauge so you can keep an eye on things ?
> 
> Be careful


Yeah there is, the safety valve has given me so many frights the last few days I watch the gauge closely


----------



## jeebsy

Keeps climbing.


----------



## jeebsy

IMAG1878 by wjheenan, on Flickr

There's two pins in the connection on the left.

Attached the left pin, no error is shown but the pressure isn't being regulated

Attached the right pin, it shows an error, won't fully heat you're unable to set boiler pressure


----------



## jeebsy

IMAG1879 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## jeebsy

jeebsy said:


> Attached the left pin, no error is shown but the pressure isn't being regulated
> 
> Attached the right pin, it shows an error, won't fully heat you're unable to set boiler pressure


So when wired in the same way, the two stats behave exactly the same way. I'm just thinking aloud in here now


----------



## bronc

Our projects seem to be moving together. I'm having issues with my controller's pressure setting as well..


----------



## jeebsy

When I was in a local shop picking up some parts the other day one of the engineers suggested he thought it might be a faulty relay rather than the stat. Don't even know what this meant but might have to check this line of enquiry too now


----------



## Xpenno

jeebsy said:


> When I was in a local shop picking up some parts the other day one of the engineers suggested he thought it might be a faulty relay rather than the stat. Don't even know what this meant but might have to check this line of enquiry too now


I would guess that the relay is responsible for making an breaking the connection to the heating element and thus stop the heater once it reaches temperature. If it's seized closed then it could be the reason that the heating element stays on even though it's at temp.


----------



## bronc

The issue with my controller is pretty much the same - the relay that is responsible for cutting the power to the pstat (which in turn sends power to the heating element) when there isn't water in the tank needs to be replaced. Not sure if it's the same relay in your case but sounds similar.

@Xpenno, I think that since the machine is a HX the actual 'decision' whether to send power to the heater or not is left to the pstat so the relay shouldn't be reacting to the temperature.


----------



## Thecatlinux

Is that the circuit diagram for your machine ?


----------



## Thecatlinux

Still can't work out where the brown and blue wire goes ???


----------



## bronc

Actually when I think about this it doesn't make much sense. I'm judging based on my machine, but I think that the relay can't be blamed. The way it works is that the controller sends 230V to the pstat which in turn checks if the pressure in the boiler is within the correct range. If it is below this range it sends 230V to the heater, if it is within the range or above it, it acts as a stop to the power. The controller of the Classe 6 seems more sophisticated but if it follows the same principle then the issue should be somewhere else. I've used *this *to check where the problem is with my TS. It's a different machine so take care


----------



## Tewdric

Silly question - is the 240v feed to the heating element wired via the pressure stat or independent of it?


----------



## El carajillo

Following xepno's thought's. The P/stat does the sensing, The board /CPU says OK and signals send power activate RELAY ( contacts in relay burned / stuck ?) =continual power supply ?

P/stat senses problem but supply not cut off because of relay contacts.


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> Is that the circuit diagram for your machine ?


Yep



jeebsy said:


>





Thecatlinux said:


> Still can't work out where the brown and blue wire goes ???


From the pic above to the pstat

  IMAG1880 by wjheenan, on Flickr



El carajillo said:


> Following xepno's thought's. The P/stat does the sensing, The board /CPU says OK and signals send power activate RELAY ( contacts in relay burned / stuck ?) =continual power supply ?
> 
> P/stat senses problem but supply not cut off because of relay contacts.


That makes sense to me, but i am massively ignorant about it. Is a potential problem with the relay something that could be diagnosed with the naked eye by an idiot?


----------



## Xpenno

jeebsy said:


> Yep
> 
> From the pic above to the pstat
> 
> IMAG1880 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> That makes sense to me, but i am massively ignorant about it. Is a potential problem with the relay something that could be diagnosed with the naked eye by an idiot?


It will probably be sealed but they should make a clicking noise when activated. You could possibly test with a voltmeter in sound mode. I would have thought that with no voltage on the relay that it should fail open. If you make a circuit over the relay with no voltage then it could be stuck....

Don't kill yourself on my poor electrical knowledge though! Should be able to test without mains on.


----------



## hotmetal

Depends on the relay but probably not. I have seen clear relays where you can see the moving parts inside. If by some slim chance yours was like this you'd see if the reed was stuck or contacts welded. However it's more likely to be a little black cube with 4 connections. You could test it with a multimeter and a low voltage supply if you can disconnect it and find out what voltage the lv side works at. I wouldn't think they're very expensive though unless it's some special spec or size.


----------



## jeebsy

I'll need to consult someone who actually knows how to use a multimeter.

Say it is the relay, can this be fixed? Expensive?


----------



## Chockymonster

Not sure if these help much but they made more sense to me as they show the relationship between the safety stat and the heating element.

Have you you checked to see if the safety stat reading changes as the machine heats up?

if you put your multimeter on the stat contacts and set it to ohms it the value should change.


----------



## Chockymonster

Ah, they're not so legible once uploaded. Originals are from here http://www.coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/media/Rancilio_Manuals/Tecnical_Manuals/All_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf


----------



## jeebsy

I've got that printed out somewhere. Will have a butchers in the morning although suspect it might be beyond me.


----------



## Chockymonster

The key difference in the 2 diagrams is the one you posted misses out the TS bit which is the safety thermostat.

According to the diagram it breaks the contact between the boiler element so if the temp in the boiler gets too high it cuts power. If you trace the element wires is there a thermostat?


----------



## jeebsy

There's the element protection thermostat, although think the only job of that is to cut power in the event of a massive overheat rather than regulating the temp?


----------



## Chockymonster

Looks like the diagrM in the link I posted is not for your model. The one in the owners manual is the same as you posted. You mentioned about setting the pressure. Do you have the programming card to do that? The manual suggests you can only do it using the diagnostics card


----------



## jeebsy

Yeah, but it's in the kitchen and i'm wrapped in a blanket on the couch. You press one of the volumetric buttons when turning the machine on then it goes into set mode which you use the touchpad for


----------



## Chockymonster

Ok, so if the J6 wire is wired to give no errors then everything heats up but there is no regulation, which would suggest that whatever is turning the boiler element on and off isn't doing the off.

A relay has been mentioned but I don't see one on the wiring diagram. is there one? If so can you take the cover off and look at the inner workings? (assuming it's removable)


----------



## Thecatlinux

1. Has the black thing r got any writing at on it , especially around the terminals at the top , also are all the terminals the same size .

2. If you can control/set the pressure on the machine have you tried turning this down to as low as it goes .

3. The safety valve on the top of the boiler , has that got a rating on in it ?

4. Did you notice on the gauge what the pressure got up to before releasing .

I have my assumptions to what is going on but they are assumptions and not any kind of fact, I am happy to Help if I can and when or if asked but I'm afraid trying to do this long distance isn't practical or easy .

whilst looking for a fault it is easy to be steered and or go off on at tangent and end up looking and getting involved in something that is not relevant .

Concentrate with the matter in hand , by the look of it you need to understand what that black thing is and how does it work . My guess and it is only a guess is the brown and blue wire are supply and the black wire is a signal.

The return signal to the board will vary its current output (normally quite low mA) in relation to what the pressure is in the boiler . Like I said this is a GUESS not hard fact .

If you're friendly with your coffee shop ask them who they use for repairs and or servicing ?

Will help where I can but will wait till I'm asked as I don't want to be sending you off on a tangent .

Number one rule Never assume anything !

Number two rule. Never forget number one rule .


----------



## bronc

jeebsy said:


> I'll need to consult someone who actually knows how to use a multimeter.
> 
> Say it is the relay, can this be fixed? Expensive?


For the TS the relay can be replaced with an identical one. It costs about 3 eur so not expensive.


----------



## jeebsy

OK, mission find the relay begins. Remember you're talking to an idiot.

However, before we get started, I noticed this in the wee manual thing someone gave me:

  IMAG1881 by wjheenan, on Flickr

DIP 1 and DIP 2 being on or off may be relevant to my situation, but the photos from when i took the machine apart at first show these were all off.

Is it worth trying combos of one and two on or could i do irreparable damage to something?


----------



## kevin

I may be mistaken here, but looking at your earlier photo all of the DIP switches appear to be on? Did you switch them before taking that photo...?



jeebsy said:


> IMAG1878 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## jeebsy

That's how they were when I was stripping it down - assumed that was off bearing in mind it says on at the top?


----------



## El carajillo

Try visually tracing back from the boiler terminal connections , looking for a (small box , junction where wires separate or any other terminations) photograph this /these and post ,take particular note of any cable thickness or colour changes. Also note any numbers / letters on boxes /terminations.


----------



## jeebsy

jeebsy said:


> That's how they were when I was stripping it down - assumed that was off bearing in mind it says on at the top?


Hi res version here https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/043Ktz



El carajillo said:


> Try visually tracing back from the boiler terminal connections , looking for a (small box , junction where wires separate or any other terminations) photograph this /these and post ,take particular note of any cable thickness or colour changes. Also note any numbers / letters on boxes /terminations.


Will do


----------



## kevin

jeebsy said:


> assumed that was off bearing in mind it says on at the top?


Ah yeah, that looks more like "off" - the other photo makes it look more like "on" but it may just be the perspective.

Also maybe interesting, looking at a manual from http://coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/media/Rancilio_Manuals/User_Manuals/MAN_Classe6_%282010-09%29_rev_AC.pdf on page 101 it seems like if DIP switch number 1 is "on" then the pressure setting is set by the screw on the blue variable resistor just behind the blue wire on your PCB photo (R33).


----------



## jeebsy

Might try flicking one and seeing if it makes a difference. Seems like that can be changed for testing purposes as you say so shouldn't blow up as long as I'm careful


----------



## jeebsy

kevin said:


> Ah yeah, that looks more like "off" - the other photo makes it look more like "on" but it may just be the perspective.
> 
> Also maybe interesting, looking at a manual from http://coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/media/Rancilio_Manuals/User_Manuals/MAN_Classe6_%282010-09%29_rev_AC.pdf on page 101 it seems like if DIP switch number 1 is "on" then the pressure setting is set by the screw on the blue variable resistor just behind the blue wire on your PCB photo (R33).





jeebsy said:


> IMAG1881 by wjheenan, on Flickr


Based on what that page says do you think any should be on during normal operationk


----------



## kevin

jeebsy said:


> Based on what that page says do you think any should be on during normal operation


I'd guess number 1 should be, although I'm not sure what the alternative means ("via push buttons" - which push buttons, and what options do they give?)

Those jumpers look interesting as well (PT, PW, LV) which, quoting the manual, do this:

* PT: Sensors boiler, jumper on 1-2 means "PTC Temperature probe" and jumper on 2-3 means "Pressure trasducer" [sic]

* PW: Power resistance, jumper present means "2/3 power" whereas jumper removed means "full power"

* LV: Level sensors, jumper present means "capacitive sensors" whereas jumper removed means "resistive sensors"

Disclaimer: I know very little about the inner workings of coffee machines, but I do have an electronics degree so I know one end of a soldering iron from the other.


----------



## jeebsy

There's buttons on the front to dispense pre programmed volumes of water. If you hold one in when you turn the machine on it goes into boiler pressure setting mode. Pushing different dose buttons on the front changes the boiler pressure +/- 0.1 bar


----------



## kevin

DIP 2 looks like it sets what type of pressure transducer you've got, there's some pictures at the bottom of page 101 to compare against.


----------



## bronc

The box with a SW V1.1 sticker looks like a good candidate for a relay. Can you read what's written on it? 

__
https://flic.kr/p/17703140603


----------



## kevin

jeebsy said:


> If you hold one in when you turn the machine on it goes into boiler pressure setting mode


Oh, that sounds more useful, probably best leaving it like that as opposed to using the variable resistor, so leave DIP 1 set to "off". Not sure why that would even be an option, except maybe for testing?


----------



## jeebsy

Looks like I might want dip 2 on? Unless I'm reading it in reverse


----------



## jeebsy

bronc said:


> The box with a SW V1.1 sticker looks like a good candidate for a relay. Can you read what's written on it?
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/17703140603


I'll check when I'm home, have unfortunately had to go out for a while


----------



## kevin

I think DIP 2 depends on what your pressure transducer is, looking at this bit of the manual:


----------



## jeebsy

The first one. Back to the relay theory then


----------



## Xpenno

To me it sounds like dip 1 should be on and the rest off. I.e. you want he machine to regulate the pressure. I still have no real idea, I find it really interesting how different people read the same instruction differently though


----------



## jeebsy

El carajillo said:


> Try visually tracing back from the boiler terminal connections , looking for a (small box , junction where wires separate or any other terminations) photograph this /these and post ,take particular note of any cable thickness or colour changes. Also note any numbers / letters on boxes /terminations.


The boiler wires come in through the top right box and into J5 at the sort of middle left. Can't really see what goes on behind at that point.



bronc said:


> The box with a SW V1.1 sticker looks like a good candidate for a relay. Can you read what's written on it?
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/17703140603


That's L2, can't really read anything else off it because of the sticker though


----------



## bronc

Can you try to lift the sticker a bit to see the manufacturer at least?


----------



## jeebsy

IMAG1886 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## bronc

No luck.. some kind of a filter.


----------



## jeebsy

Got fed up with my kitchen looking like a workshop and having to move panels/tools/bits about when trying to do anything so had a proper tidy up (i.e. put the machine back together).

Two weeks ago:

  $_57 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  $_57 (1) by wjheenan, on Flickr

  $_57 (2) by wjheenan, on Flickr

Tonight:

  P1040749 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040751 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040752 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040753 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## jeebsy

P1040756 by wjheenan, on

__
https://flic.kr/p/unWByB








P1040757 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040759 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040760 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  P1040761 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## Jon

I want this!


----------



## kevin

Wow, that all looks really nice!



jeebsy said:


> IMAG1886 by wjheenan, on Flickr


That's an inductor of some sort (inductance is measured in "Henry"s, hence the mH), details at http://schaffner.com/tw/products/datasheet-low-res/product/rn-series-common-mode-chokes.pdf where it describes it as some kind of mains interference filter. Unlikely to be of interest.


----------



## Rhys

That's mint! just needs an 'all started here' logo on the back


----------



## glevum

Thats a transformation. Looks great. Enjoying the thread.


----------



## Dylan

I think Rancilio should have hired you for the finishing touches originally Jeebsy... its looks the dogs bollocks.


----------



## jeebsy

Got the rest of the stickers/graphics to do but want to spend some time on them so that's for another day.

Might have an engineer coming tomorrow night, got a recommendation from Papercup. Be good to get it up and running properly and start stress testing it.


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Is it me dude or did you stick the cup sticker on upside down......?


----------



## jeebsy

Sk8-bizarre said:


> Is it me dude or did you stick the cup sticker on upside down......?


it's supposed to be like that, it's a sticker for the cup warmer - and cups are usually upside down on the warmer


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Thank f*** it's me being stupid then lol. Was looking thinking it looked really nice then saw that and went awwww man.

Excuse my ignorance, it all looks wicked mate. Nice job.

*grabs coat while hiding embarrassment and sneaks out of the machine appreciation party while no one's looking......


----------



## jeebsy

Haha, i wondered why the cup was upside down too until i found out what it was for, common mistake (maybe)


----------



## bronc

Sk8-bizarre said:


> Is it me dude or did you stick the cup sticker on upside down......?


Isn't the one below it upside down?







The arrow should be pointing up?


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

bronc said:


> Isn't the one below it upside down?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The arrow should be pointing up?


Hey man what do I know! My Classic only has three buttons on it hahaha


----------



## Chockymonster

bronc said:


> Isn't the one below it upside down?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The arrow should be pointing up?


Shhh, don't tell anyone!


----------



## jeebsy

bronc said:


> Isn't the one below it upside down?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The arrow should be pointing up?


Nah it's meant to go down, as in 'there's some tasty coffee about to go down'


----------



## jeebsy

Stickered up

  IMAG1887 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Engineer was supposed to come out tonight but got stuck on a job in Edinburgh. Should be over tomorrow late afternoon.


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Pretty damn slick duder.


----------



## jeebsy

Sk8-bizarre said:


> Pretty damn slick duder.


Just don't look too closely at the spacing or placement...but yeah it's looking not bad


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

I did look, it's you who are stood that side of it not a punter so will annoy only you and only you allow it to but was more distracted by the accuracy of cut, especially rounded corners and near match of panel coat orange to your sticker orange which is pretty good. Black and orange man, it looks bold and in your face nice.


----------



## risky

Looks the absolute business mate!


----------



## glevum

Looking ace, hope the steam don't lift those stickers off!

I take my hat off to you Jeeb's for what you have done in a short space of time. If i got that machine same time as you, mine would still be in the boot of the car


----------



## Mr O

Looking good mate, very good...


----------



## Spooks

That looks stunning, gotta tip my proverbial hat, 2 weeks to do that is brilliant.


----------



## 4515

Really smart looking machine

Like the colour scheme - 'less is more' works well with the orange on this one for me


----------



## jeebsy

working dog said:


> Really smart looking machine
> 
> Like the colour scheme - 'less is more' works well with the orange on this one for me


When i was waiting on the side panels coming back i sort of wished they were getting painted orange but think that might have been too much. Really pleased with it.


----------



## risky

jeebsy said:


> When i was waiting on the side panels coming back i sort of wished they were getting painted orange but think that might have been too much. Really pleased with it.


I reckon that would have been a bit much. Looks very classy how it is.


----------



## jeebsy

risky said:


> I reckon that would have been a bit much. Looks very classy how it is.


Forgot you'd be able to see the top of back panel from the front, that wee bit of colour makes it imo


----------



## froggystyle

So the big question.. How much have you put into this machine Jeebsy?


----------



## jeebsy

Machine: £105

Powder coating: £75

Spray for the plastics: £30

New inlet solenoid: £25

New element protection sensor: £25

Assorted bits (shower screens, gaskets, safety valve, anti vac , descaler, switches): £120

Included in the final £120 is £40 for a new pressure stat which i'm hoping to sneak a refund for given it's not wired up the same as the other one and technically doesn't work, and £10 for switches which don't fit in the casing properly.....

HOWEVER

I just got a call back from Caffeine Fix (engineers) who are Rancilio trained. Sent them a call request over the weekend.

Ran through the problem with the guy and he said if a new pressure stat didn't fix it then it's going to be a new board. He's worked on loads of these machines and is confident that's the case. It's solid state relays (he said it's technically tricactors (or something which aren't quite the same) but fixing them is a nightmare). He's got a second hand board I can have for £150, or it's £300+VAT for a new one.

Dunno if i should still get this engineer who's supposed to be coming out tonight for a second opinion.


----------



## dsc

If its solid state relays you could try to desolder then and order replacement from RS / CPC. Depends how handy you are with a soldering iron.

T.


----------



## jeebsy

dsc said:


> Depends how handy you are with a soldering iron.


Never tried it and got really shakey hands so i'd say dangerously incompetent


----------



## dsc

New board it is then









T.


----------



## 4085

jeebsy, have you worked into the equation, that this is a workhorse? By that I meant will be working for its living. It is important that it works and works well, as if it breaks down then you are back several steps. Also, as you know if you keep all the receipts and ever need to put a tax return in, then they will all be allowable. If it was a home machine then shortcuts would be fine.


----------



## jeebsy

dfk41 said:


> jeebsy, have you worked into the equation, that this is a workhorse? By that I meant will be working for its living. It is important that it works and works well, as if it breaks down then you are back several steps. Also, as you know if you keep all the receipts and ever need to put a tax return in, then they will all be allowable. If it was a home machine then shortcuts would be fine.


That's a big driver in how i'm approaching this. Mechanical bits i'm OK fixing myself but the electronics need someone who knows what they're doing to sort it. Like you say i need to be confident that it's going to hold up during service. It's disappointing it needs a new board but if it fixes it and fixes it properly then i don't mind paying it.


----------



## Thecatlinux

Is he is going to fit the board and commission it for you ?

£150 is cheap to get this up and running


----------



## jeebsy

Yeah he said he'll fit it and check it's working, but i need to take the machine to their workshop which is a bit of a ballache although will save on charges/costs.

At the outset I said £100 for the machine then £200-300 to get it up and running so going a bit over with the new board, but for peace of mind it's worth it.


----------



## sheilaclark

jeebsy said:


> First indication there might be a scale issue:
> 
> IMAG1743 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> IMAG1729 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> There was a snail on inside of the frame
> 
> IMAG1746 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> IMAG1747 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> Boiler stripped and descaling:  IMAG1759 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> Element after the acid bath
> 
> IMAG1761 by wjheenan, on Flickr
> 
> Frame all cleaned down (no snails)
> 
> IMAG1760 by wjheenan, on Flickr


Always like watching a restoration


----------



## Thecatlinux

Once up and running it should recoup the money it's cost , plus like has already been said the costs are all deduct able against your tax


----------



## jeebsy

Booked tomorrow off, wee road trip coming up


----------



## Milanski

SO frustrating after all the work you put in!

Still, with the replacement board you know it'll have years of service in it (maybe try to get the guy to give you a min 12 month guarantee on it?).


----------



## jeebsy

Yeah it's annoying but at least we have a definite on the issue and it should be fixed tomorrow instead of me pissing about trying to work out what bit on the board does what indefinitely. Silver lining is that he has the old board available too, otherwise it would be a lot more painful.

Not sure about the guarantee as it's a used board, but given money will be exchanging hands it brings an expectation the repairs will be good for a while.


----------



## Milanski

...I love the fact that this thread has got over 6500 views in two weeks


----------



## bronc

It's totally worth it for the peace of mind, imho. After all you will be serving other people with this machine - you want it to be as safe and reliable as possible. With a new controller and completely rebuild mechanics it's like a new machine and it will last you a long long time.


----------



## coffeechap

bronc said:


> It's totally worth it for the peace of mind, imho. After all you will be serving other people with this machine - you want it to be as safe and reliable as possible. With a new controller and completely rebuild mechanics it's like a new machine and it will last you a long long time.


for a lot less money william


----------



## jeebsy

Considering needing a new board was the doomsday scenario and it's only pushing me 20%ish over budget it's alright.


----------



## Milanski

...and you've saved another machine from the skip!


----------



## hotmetal

Are you suggesting all Jeebs' machines come from a skip?! 

Sorry, couldn't resist that one!

It is unbelievable the transformation between the start of this thread and where we're at now. I love a good restoration thread and this is one of the best. To think he's now only £150 and a few days away from a totally pimped 2-group, brilliant. When I first saw the painted grinder I wasn't sure but the orange/black has really grown on me and this machine looks totally boss.


----------



## Xpenno

Well the machine looks amazing mate!! Even with the new board you have a proper commercial workhorse that looks the business, can't wait until you get it up and running for real.


----------



## Milanski

I wasn't sure when I first saw the state of the machine, but now I'm sorry I doubted you Jeebsy!

I should have known going by all the other pimping that you'd end up with a beaut!

So did you self-design and get specially printed sitckers Jeebsy?


----------



## jeebsy

hotmetal said:


> To think he's now only £150 and a few days away from a totally pimped 2-group


24 hours hopefully!



Milanski said:


> I wasn't sure when I first saw the state of the machine, but now I'm sorry I doubted you Jeebsy!
> 
> I should have known going by all the other pimping that you'd end up with a beaut!
> 
> So did you self-design and get specially printed sitckers Jeebsy?


I've been through the mixer with this one, the snail on the frame when i took it apart made me go proper WTF.

A very kind board member who asked not be named designed and printed the stickers for me. It would be cool to have different graphics for the buttons like a silhouette of an EK for a lungo etc but that can be done in the future


----------



## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Considering needing a new board was the doomsday scenario and it's only pushing me 20%ish over budget it's alright.


I could take it off your hands for what you've spent if you prefer?


----------



## Jon

jonc said:


> I could take it off your hands for what you've spent if you prefer?


p.s. NOT counting your time!


----------



## jeebsy

I'd consider selling it for £800-900. Maybe.


----------



## jeebsy

What would i upgrade to though?

This is:

Volumetric

Relatively portable (can carry it short distances myself)

Will run off a plug

Compact

Apparently makes pretty nice shots

Cheap

Looks good

It would have to be a dual boiler but they get pricey and heavy


----------



## Jon

jeebsy said:


> I'd consider selling it for £800-900. Maybe.


Could you make it all a silvery colour for that? And remove the orange stickers?


----------



## jeebsy

I'll make it shiny silver, put the kinked braided hose back on, scale up the boiler and HX pipes and even put the dust back on it


----------



## jeebsy

And put the snail back in the frame


----------



## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> What would i upgrade to though?
> 
> This is:
> 
> Volumetric
> 
> Relatively portable (can carry it short distances myself)
> 
> Will run off a plug
> 
> Compact
> 
> Apparently makes pretty nice shots
> 
> Cheap
> 
> Looks good
> 
> It would have to be a dual boiler but they get pricey and heavy


have a word with CC about an L2 , never will you have to worry about carrying out your own maintence , don't know about portability.

Oh oh hang on L1 p

Levers Rule


----------



## bronc

jeebsy, how much does it weigh?


----------



## jeebsy

52-55ish kilos


----------



## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> It would have to be a dual boiler but they get pricey and heavy


Amen


----------



## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> 52-55ish kilos


The new Linea weighs 41kg empty plus about 7kg of water. Big boy!


----------



## jeebsy

The mini?


----------



## Pompeyexile

Krikey Jeebsy you don't muck about do you. This has got to one of the quickest restorations ever.

Got to echo what others have said it looks the dog's gonads.

The black and orange give it a smart business like yet tough air about it. Looks like it will go on for ever.

Really hope the new board does the trick.

Don't forget the photo of the first shot pulled on it and of course your tasting notes.


----------



## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> The mini?


Nah the one group commercial. Expect mine is roughly the same as it has bolted boilers and no PID, whereas new one has welded boilers & PID gubbins.


----------



## Daren

Milanski said:


> ...I love the fact that this thread has got over 6500 views in two weeks


6485 of them from me


----------



## Thecatlinux

Daren said:


> 6485 of them from me


 The other 15 must have been me then !


----------



## Spooks

@jeebsy What's the power of this if it's able to use a standard plug? Your a bad influence, I was browsing eBay at commercial machines in need of TLC last night


----------



## hotmetal

3kW IIRC.

There was a pic of the ratings plate a few pages back. Says 3kW (but further up "Max 3450W" which is obviously a bit over the 13A safe load for a normal plug. But maybe that's a figure that wouldn't be seen for more than a brief moment under certain circumstances? Or did Jeebsy disconnect one of the element loops?


----------



## risky

Spooks said:


> @jeebsy What's the power of this if it's able to use a standard plug? Your a bad influence, I was browsing eBay at commercial machines in need of TLC last night


http://r.ebay.com/eL7aKF

You know you want to...


----------



## Spooks

risky said:


> http://r.ebay.com/eL7aKF
> 
> You know you want to...


Lol I did see that ...... stop it


----------



## jeebsy

Well, mixed bag.

The board the guy had wasn't quite the right one.

One of triacs/relays for the element was stuck open as expected. It was the triac for the red loop, which is the one that shorted against the element protection sensor. Likelihood is I fecked it.

The upside is the machine can just run with that loop disconnected for the time being, albeit with the loss of about 800w of power. Will need to be mindful about drawing too much water but it should be fine for my volumes.

I'm going to run the machine as is, then when it's earned the money to replace the board get it done.

Feck.


----------



## froggystyle

How much is the board?


----------



## jeebsy

360 quid.


----------



## froggystyle

ah ya bastart!

Better start doing every weekend!

Or sell me your Ek for 360 quid.


----------



## Thecatlinux

That all makes sense , to be fair running one less element might be a blessing in disguise as you won't have to worry about loading .

Will take a little longer to heat up .

If you wanted I guess you could switch the element on start up to get the boiler up to pressure and the take it out of the equation


----------



## jeebsy

froggystyle said:


> ah ya bastart!
> 
> Better start doing every weekend!
> 
> Or sell me your Ek for 360 quid.


I'll sell you my bonavita for 360 quid. I'm thinking about doing every weekend, but working mon-fri plus Sat isn't appealing.



Thecatlinux said:


> That all makes sense , to be fair running one less element might be a blessing in disguise as you won't have to worry about loading .
> 
> Will take a little longer to heat up .
> 
> If you wanted I guess you could switch the element on start up to get the boiler up to pressure and the take it out of the equation


Heating up isn't a problem really as I'm (usually) there in good time, it's just how it'll stand up during use. It'll steam and brew like a good'un, just need to watch drawing water.

Should hopefully have enough profit to cover a board in a couple of months max so not long.


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Ahhh man, that sucks!

I am willing loads of punters your way to enable the sorting of asap.


----------



## froggystyle

jeebsy said:


> I'll sell you my bonavita for 360 quid


Chuck in the TDS thing and you got a deal!


----------



## Dylan

Am I reading this correctly... that the relay is buggered?

What is stopping you replacing the relay?


----------



## jeebsy

It's a difficult job, and apparently repaired boards don't tend to have that long a lifespan. This guy knows his shit and he didn't recommend trying to repair it.

I'm looking into having it replaced as if it's cheap enough it's worth a punt: a) it works, cheap fix all is well b) it doesn't work and I need a new board anyway.


----------



## dsc

Can you identify the faulty element on the board? a photo would help, then I can try and find a replacement and if you want I can have a go at swapping it over (you'd have to send it over, which means a few days without the machine).

T.


----------



## Dylan

jeebsy said:


> It's a difficult job, and apparently repaired boards don't tend to have that long a lifespan. I'm looking into having it replaced as if it's cheap enough it's worth a punt: a) it works, cheap fix all is well b) it doesn't work and I need a new board anyway.


I cant fully understand the logic behind that, perhaps fixed boards have a high-ish chance of human error in the repair, or causing extra damage to the board elsewhere...

Anyway, the relay should be available online for next to nowt, and if your not confident with a soldering iron you can send it to me and I'll do it for free. (I'm a dab hand with a soldering iron, but my electrical knowledge has waned over the years.)

Edit: Beaten to it by DSC, he would be the better choice anyway


----------



## MWJB

There are a bunch of electrolytic caps on the board, rated life of just a few thousand hours (tend to last longer if regularly used too, you can find companies that will recap non-working digital/skybox boards for instance), so from my perspective I'd rather have the new board, with new e-caps.


----------



## jeebsy

dsc said:


> Can you identify the faulty element on the board? a photo would help, then I can try and find a replacement and if you want I can have a go at swapping it over (you'd have to send it over, which means a few days without the machine).
> 
> T.


I only use the machine once a fortnight at the moment so wouldn't be a problem. Might have someone local who can do it, if not I'll send you a pm. Appreciated .


----------



## Dylan

MWJB said:


> There are a bunch of electrolytic caps on the board, rated life of just a few thousand hours (tend to last longer if regularly used too, you can find companies that will recap non-working digital/skybox boards for instance), so from my perspective I'd rather have the new board, with new e-caps.


Each to their own, but if I had the option to pay a few quid to get it working until they actually reached the end of their life, that would be the option I would go for.


----------



## bronc

@dsc I tried to send you a PM but your inbox is full. I'm having some relay issues of my own with the Gaggia TS I've been working on.. I'd be very grateful if you could take a look: http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?24191-Gaggia-TS-restoration&p=314904#post314904 @jeebsy, sorry for hijacking your thread


----------



## jeebsy

Dylan said:


> Each to their own, but if I had the option to pay a few quid to get it working until they actually reached the end of their life, that would be the option I would go for.


If it's actually a few quid, and it'll give a decent amount of use, then sure - it's viable. You've not lose much if it packs up two weeks down the line. I've seen some places charges 90 quid + parts for board repairs though in which case it becomes much less attractive.

Anyway, now that's all taken care of, lets make some coffee:

  IMAG1890 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## froggystyle

Beast!


----------



## jeebsy

The clima pro is a great laugh while it's warming up


----------



## Dylan

jeebsy said:


> If it's actually a few quid, and it'll give a decent amount of use, then sure - it's viable. You've not lose much if it packs up two weeks down the line. I've seen some places charges 90 quid + parts for board repairs though in which case it becomes much less attractive.


Yea, £90 with no guarantee would be a different question., much like taking the actual espresso machine into an engineer would have cost you an arm and a leg. If your prepared to have a go yourself tho the savings can be huge. I understand the hesitation when the board is half working, don't want to bugger it completely, but soldering in an equal spec relay should do it no harm.


----------



## Jon

That looks so good. I reckon you should vinyl wrap the hopper lid in 'Jeebsy Orange' to tie it all in - that's surely inexpensive?


----------



## jeebsy

I feel sick


----------



## froggystyle

Either too much coffee, or its just died?


----------



## jeebsy

Caffeine overdose

Ignore the ghetto cup elevator


----------



## bronc

Man that thing is quiet.. Gotta love em rotary pumps!


----------



## Milanski

It lives!!

A good example of reaching out and touching faith.


----------



## jeebsy

Milanski said:


> It lives!!
> 
> A good example of reaching out and touching faith.


That's deep, man


----------



## froggystyle

Milanski said:


> It lives!!
> 
> A good example of reaching out and touching faith.


As long as she doesnt mind....


----------



## Mr O

G E F E L I C I T E E R D
















Unbelievable effort, much respect for the continued will to succeed and very much worth it in the end.....


----------



## risky

Think you need the scales in black to tie it all together







Or maybe Jeebsy custom orange ones?


----------



## jeebsy

Brewistas are taking over


----------



## risky

jeebsy said:


> Brewistas are taking over


Black and orange. Almost as if they were made just for you?


----------



## Jon

If they actually exist that is.


----------



## jeebsy

jonc said:


> If they actually exist that is.


Between them and the black Acaias it's getting BORING


----------



## Spazbarista

I'm giv' 'ner all she got, Cap'N"

"i dont know how much longer I can hold 'er t'gether"

"She's gonna blow!"

(Jeebsy's last words)


----------



## Jon

They don't exist!


----------



## doolallysquiff

jeebsy said:


> If it's actually a few quid, and it'll give a decent amount of use, then sure - it's viable. You've not lose much if it packs up two weeks down the line. I've seen some places charges 90 quid + parts for board repairs though in which case it becomes much less attractive.
> 
> Anyway, now that's all taken care of, lets make some coffee:
> 
> IMAG1890 by wjheenan, on Flickr


Truely inspirational. Well done buddy, it looks awesome.


----------



## jeebsy

Snagging issues:

Slight drip from the left group when it's in use, pf has got to be locked in tight - it's a new seal so need to check it's in right

Need threadlocker for the new pf spouts

The new switches LF sent me that are apparently like for like replacements are slightly too wide for the casing and don't work

Need to out the badge on the front


----------



## bronc

jeebsy, can you check LF's price of a switch for me? The part Id is GAGGIA DM1362/RO


----------



## Dylan

bronc said:


> jeebsy, can you check LF's price of a switch for me? The part Id is GAGGIA DM1362/RO


£15.44 before the 50% discount they apply to everything, but none in stock so would have to be on special order.


----------



## Milanski

Don't out the badge!

Give it some Jeebsy Jazz with some nail polish colours!


----------



## oursus

Beautiful job, fit for a bike or car... What do they charge you for powder coating?


----------



## jeebsy

Milanski said:


> Don't out the badge!
> 
> Give it some Jeebsy Jazz with some nail polish colours!


I've got some orange enamel paint but think it will be a bit 'thick' - spray might be the best option



oursus said:


> Beautiful job, fit for a bike or car... What do they charge you for powder coating?


This was £75 for about 10 panels but I had to prep most of it myself


----------



## oursus

About what I thought, not cheap, but it certainly takes the machine to another level!


----------



## jeebsy

I saw a linea yesterday with a hammered powder coated finish that was over £400. I don't think 75 is bad at all. That's what by bike frame and forks cost in London!


----------



## jeebsy

More testing

View attachment 14879


View attachment 14880


Didn't like the wands at first but they're actually alright


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14897


Went to games workshop/warhammer place as figured they would have tiny brushes/primers/paints for the badge.

Spent ages talking to the guy about the different finishes, primers, brushes etc then he said "what is it you're painting anyway?" So I explained I'd just finished refurbing a coffee machine and needed to paint the badge. He walked away and looked at me as if I was the strange one...


----------



## Sk8-bizarre

Hahaha well you just didn't fit in did you!

Great job on the badge though man. Will look wicked on!!!


----------



## Milanski

Pic of the final look?


----------



## jeebsy

View attachment 14898


Excuse the crap camera phone exposure


----------



## Jon

I liked the machine in silver.


----------



## Tewdric

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14898
> 
> 
> Excuse the crap camera phone exposure


Raptuous applause from Wales!


----------



## Daren

jeebsy said:


> View attachment 14898
> 
> 
> Excuse the crap camera phone exposure


Yeah man - love love love it!!


----------



## Mrboots2u

Lol,thats come along way from the piece of crap i saw in the boot of your car at forum day


----------



## jeebsy

Mrboots2u said:


> Lol,thats come along way from the piece of crap i saw in the boot of your car at forum day


Oi, it might read that


----------



## Mrboots2u

jeebsy said:


> Oi, it might read that


Now im worried....you need to get out more and stop fiddling with your wands


----------



## jeebsy




----------



## The Systemic Kid

That's some make over, Jeebsy.


----------



## ronsil

Top class job that!

Obviously a lot of thought & patience has gone into it.

Congratulations.


----------



## jeebsy

A lot of impatience went into it - staying up until 3.45 in the morning stripping it down, cycling to the powder coaters three days in a row before work, staying up until 2am sanding panels, making espressotechno run to the post office before it shut so i could get my parts the next day, phoning engineers to try and arrange appointments on Sunday nights, days off work to take it to get fixed. But that's it done, and it's been a trooper during the last few days of bench testing, in just under three weeks.


----------



## Spazbarista

Yeah a lot of work, but quite apart from having a great machine of which you are justifiably proud.....just think about how much you've learnt in a short time


----------



## Mrboots2u

jeebsy said:


> A lot of impatience went into it - staying up until 3.45 in the morning stripping it down, cycling to the powder coaters three days in a row before work, staying up until 2am sanding panels, making espressotechno run to the post office before it shut so i could get my parts the next day, phoning engineers to try and arrange appointments on Sunday nights, days off work to take it to get fixed. But that's it done, and it's been a trooper during the last few days of bench testing, in just under three weeks.


Your still going to the powder coaters everyday just to say hello now though arent you

( seriously well done though )


----------



## jeebsy

And thanks to everyone who helped me out on this thread!


----------



## Thecatlinux

I'm thinking of Tendring for the refurbishment of the Palace of Westminster .

If I get it I'm putting you in charge ! It'll will be done on time And on Budget. I'm not sure they will necessarily want the orange decor but I'll let you argue that one with them.

Well done dude , and great thread by the way thanks for sharing it with us , now pull a party popper and make loads of coffee.


----------



## Tewdric

It's been a very entertaining thread. Actually I think we should crowd fund a new board for it to be like new again. Tenner in, all subscribers get a free coffee at the stall!


----------



## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> I'm thinking of Tendring for the refurbishment of the Palace of Westminster .
> 
> If I get it I'm putting you in charge ! It'll will be done on time And on Budget. I'm not sure they will necessarily want the orange decor but I'll let you argue that one with them.
> 
> Well done dude , and great thread by the way thanks for sharing it with us , now pull a party popper and make loads of coffee.


I said 4-6 weeks and £400 all in, right now it's three weeks and about £350 i think



Tewdric said:


> It's been a very entertaining thread. Actually I think we should crowd fund a new board for it to be like new again. Tenner in, all subscribers get a free coffee at the stall!


Free coffee for life would be more appropriate


----------



## jeebsy

Got the yirg reserves back up to acceptable levels so going to test the machine with decent beans in the next couple of hours. Made the mistake before of just using kinda crap beans but after two shots it was a big regret.

  IMAG1942 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Went by a machine shop with some pictures of the EK. The guy is going to think over how best to chop it and phone me tomorrow to discuss. He seems pretty interested, unlike most places that look like you've shat in their hat when you ask them about this stuff.


----------



## risky

I like your cup lifters. Out of interest, why is there so much height between the bottom of the group and the drip tray?

Good news about the interested machine shop.


----------



## Taff

Hows it going? Or are you unable to type due to a caffeine coma?!


----------



## garydyke1

risky said:


> I like your cup lifters. Out of interest, why is there so much height between the bottom of the group and the drip tray?
> 
> Good news about the interested machine shop.


take away cups


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## Joel.Sim

Awesome rebuild. Looks fantastic.

Don't know if it's a good or a bad thing I found this thread since I've just started rebuilding one of these  I'm not expecting nearly the wow factor when I'm done though.

Quick question... Was it 3 phase or single phase supply when you got it?? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere amongst the 46 pages)

First step for me is switching from 3 phase to single. The wiring diagram was considerately on the inside panel, but I want to make sure I'm understanding it properly....










Naturally it's the middle configuration I'm looking at and if I understand correctly the 3 terminals on the left are "bridged" for lack of a better term!?!?

Cheers in advance for any advice.

Joel.


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## risky

garydyke1 said:


> take away cups


Interesting. Is this quite uncommon?


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## jeebsy

risky said:


> I like your cup lifters. Out of interest, why is there so much height between the bottom of the group and the drip tray?


For takeaway cups as Gary said. It's called a tall group. Seems to be quite common with Rancilio, there's always a few tall ones on eBay at any given time. It's probably slightly too tall given my biggest size is a 7oz, but it means if i have to use scales for dialling in there's plenty of room.



Taff said:


> Hows it going? Or are you unable to type due to a caffeine coma?!


Went fine, felt sick after about six coffees though. I know it's an HX but it gets mega hot if you leave it idling, and it needs a mega flush to stop the water gargling. Pump made a slightly strange noise the first couple of shots so moved the water bottle on to the table beside it and it didn't make the noise again. Don't know if there's any correlation.



Joel.Sim said:


> Awesome rebuild. Looks fantastic.
> 
> Don't know if it's a good or a bad thing I found this thread since I've just started rebuilding one of these  I'm not expecting nearly the wow factor when I'm done though.
> 
> Quick question... Was it 3 phase or single phase supply when you got it?? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere amongst the 46 pages)
> 
> First step for me is switching from 3 phase to single. The wiring diagram was considerately on the inside panel, but I want to make sure I'm understanding it properly....
> 
> Naturally it's the middle configuration I'm looking at and if I understand correctly the 3 terminals on the left are "bridged" for lack of a better term!?!?
> 
> Cheers in advance for any advice.
> 
> Joel.


Thanks. All I had to do with stick a plug on mine. I have no clue about electronics so wouldn't want to comment - maybe @thecatlinux or @grumpydaddy could help though?


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## espressotechno

Espresso rotary pumps don't really like lifting the water up from a bottle - much better to have the bottle on the same level as the m/c. Easier also to keep an eye on the water level......


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## Milanski

jeebsy said:


> IMAG1942 by wjheenan, on Flickr


Nice pair









Seriously top job mate.

I'd be happy to chip in for a new board for you. Well worth the entertainment value this thread.


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## jeebsy

espressotechno said:


> Espresso rotary pumps don't really like lifting the water up from a bottle - much better to have the bottle on the same level as the m/c. Easier also to keep an eye on the water level......


The Brewtus was OK sucking from floor level without any problems but this seems to protest a bit. Slightly cramped for counter space as it is but i'll find a way. Would you recommend a flojet?



Milanski said:


> Nice pair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously top job mate.
> 
> I'd be happy to chip in for a new board for you. Well worth the entertainment value this thread.


Haha, i couldn't really let anyone do that although it's very kind of anyone to even mention it. Depending on what the guy at the machine shop says tomorrow the 'Chop the EK thread' could be more entertaining!


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## GCGlasgow

Is it making it's debut on the stall this weekend?


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## jeebsy

GCGlasgow said:


> Is it making it's debut on the stall this weekend?


Yeah, although I still have a slight fear it'll explode when i'm using it


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## GCGlasgow

I'll try and get there early before any explosions!


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## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Yeah, although I still have a slight fear it'll explode when i'm using it


Do you have good insurance!?

Can't wait to hear how you get on. Really looks like an awesome setup now.


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## jeebsy

Shots were tasting good tonight although volumetrics were a bit inconsistent.

I've got £5 million PL cover but not sure exploding machines is an insured peril.


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## Taff

jeebsy said:


> Shots were tasting good tonight although volumetrics were a bit inconsistent.


How inconsistent?


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## grumpydaddy

Joel.Sim said:


> Awesome rebuild. Looks fantastic.
> 
> Don't know if it's a good or a bad thing I found this thread since I've just started rebuilding one of these  I'm not expecting nearly the wow factor when I'm done though.
> 
> Quick question... Was it 3 phase or single phase supply when you got it?? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere amongst the 46 pages)
> 
> first step for me is switching from 3 phase to single. The wiring diagram was considerately on the inside panel, but I want to make sure I'm understanding it properly....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Naturally it's the middle configuration I'm looking at and if I understand correctly the 3 terminals on the left are "bridged" for lack of a better term!?!?
> 
> Cheers in advance for any advice.
> 
> Joel.


Looking at that label then yes the 3 are "bridged" and connected to the *M*arrone = Brown wire. However, earlier in this thread there was some discussion about how powerful the heater elements are. Read again and you will see in post 35 that you cannot use all 3 elements and still use a 13amp plug.

Could do so if using one of these plugs (and socket) though:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41cHzoRMBqL._SX300_.jpg

but the socket would most likely need to be on a separate circuit


----------



## jeebsy

Taff said:


> How inconsistent?


Better than last time. If i programmed 36 out it would give 40 when repeated, but it would give 40 over and over. Maybe i just need to learn the offset and account for residual drips.

I need to spend more time using them to get a feel for what causes variations, expect this weekend will be a big learning curve


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## Taff

Maybe just an offset (hopefully) That sort of stuff scares me about trying an auto machine, I'd still want to check every pour. I'm sure you'll get on top of it dude.


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## jeebsy

Will try stopping the pour early (ie at 32 for a 36 shot) and see how that goes. I'll be weighing most shots on Saturday probably to check.


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## espressotechno

A flojet would stop the pump complaining !


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## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Will try stopping the pour early (ie at 32 for a 36 shot) and see how that goes. I'll be weighing most shots on Saturday probably to check.


You need some brewista scales.


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## jeebsy

espressotechno said:


> A flojet would stop the pump complaining !


I'll add it to the list!



jonc said:


> You need some brewista scales.


Tell me about it.


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## Jon

jeebsy said:


> Tell me about it.


Only 4 weeks away. Probably.


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## Joel.Sim

grumpydaddy said:


> Looking at that label then yes the 3 are "bridged" and connected to the *M*arrone = Brown wire. However, earlier in this thread there was some discussion about how powerful the heater elements are. Read again and you will see in post 35 that you cannot use all 3 elements and still use a 13amp plug.
> 
> Could do so if using one of these plugs (and socket) though:
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41cHzoRMBqL._SX300_.jpg
> 
> but the socket would most likely need to be on a separate circuit


Excellent. Thanks for the response.

Mine is 3 years older and interestingly the motor has 150w compared to 310w on the @jeebsy machine.










Plan is 16 amp plug and circuit (mostly dedicated to the machine, will switch it off if plugging in other appliances). I'm based in Norway (not that that makes much difference).

Thanks for your advice 

Joel.


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## Joel.Sim

@jeebsy where did you find the exploded drawings??


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## jlarkin

Milanski said:


> I'd be happy to chip in for a new board for you. Well worth the entertainment value this thread.





jeebsy said:


> Haha, i couldn't really let anyone do that although it's very kind of anyone to even mention it.


Was thinking the same - maybe you could run a "setting up a coffee stall masterclass" to offset it - or do up a machine for me and I'll get you the board







?


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## jeebsy

Joel.Sim said:


> @jeebsy where did you find the exploded drawings??


http://www.coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/pages/service/rancilio-manuals.php

User manual and exploded parts diagrams here - they were invaluable. Lets see a big picture of yours then!



jlarkin said:


> Was thinking the same - maybe you could run a "setting up a coffee stall masterclass" to offset it - or do up a machine for me and I'll get you the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Sadly my location could preclude enough attendees to make that one viable, but the second option is interesting


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## Joel.Sim

jeebsy said:


> http://www.coffeemachinecompany.co.uk/pages/service/rancilio-manuals.php
> 
> User manual and exploded parts diagrams here - they were invaluable. Lets see a big picture of yours then!


Awesome. Cheers.

I had found the user manual, but not the tech manual. That will help immensely.

Stupidly I didn't take pictures before starting to pull it apart and the advertisement pics for it are gone now since I bought it and all.

But I'll grab some pics anyway soon.

Shall I start a different thread for my questions that will surely come or are you ok with them coming here??


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## froggystyle

jeebsy said:


> Went by a machine shop with some pictures of the EK. The guy is going to think over how best to chop it and phone me tomorrow to discuss. He seems pretty interested, unlike most places that look like you've shat in their hat when you ask them about this stuff.


Did you not stick your name on the list for a stumpy limited edition one?


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## jeebsy

froggystyle said:


> Did you not stick your name on the list for a stumpy limited edition one?


Yeah, but Gary said something about still wanting to be able to get a Chemex under it - while I don't grind into a Chemex directly often that's probably a good benchmark for a useable height for it. You still need a decent bit of clearance to get your hands, cocktail shaker thing, retail bag etc under the spout. I tweeted Matt Perger and he said he didn't have the dimensions for it, and by my calculations if you reduce the height by more than four inches the spout will be a bit too low.

The short EK is going to end up costing £500-700 extra depending what I sell mine for which is a pretty hefty bit of wedge. If it's possible to mod mine and save some money, i'd rather do that.



Joel.Sim said:


> Shall I start a different thread fur my questions that will surely come or are you ok with them coming here??


Might be worth starting your own thread as stuff could get lost in here, but i'm not bothered - ask wherever you want! If you do make your own thread i'll subscribe and keep an eye on it.


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## jeebsy

Packing her up for her first day at work tomorrow....sniff

I'm tempted to keep the Brewtus in the car just in case, but at the same time need to get the stabilisers off ASAP.


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## Xpenno

Very much looking forward to hearing about her maiden voyage!!!


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## jeebsy

There's no reason to think she won't hold up (aside from the fact I have fiddled about with the insides). Two people who know what they're doing have said it's running nicely so just the usual self doubt.

Really can't be arsed disconnecting the Brewtus from the mains again, it's one of my least favourite things...


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## Milanski

Good luck tommorrow Jeebsy. I'm sure she'll do you proud.

I prob won't catch up with this thread for a week or so but hope you make record profit this week.


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## Milanski

We'd better both get off to bed then eh?


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## jeebsy

Milanski said:


> We'd better both get off to bed then eh?


I'm just packing up then off to my scratcher aye. All the best for tomorrow!


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## Milanski

Likewise. Cheers mate.


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## Jon

Goods luck to you both for tomorrow!


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## jeebsy

I'm making the executive decision not to take the Brewtus.

Just want to note here, for posterity, that I will probably regret that.

To myself reading this tomorrow afternoon, told you so you daft bastard.


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## Sk8-bizarre

Go go gadget Rancilio!!


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## jeebsy

Grey clouds on one half of the sky, blue clouds on the other, which way's it going to go....


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## Thecatlinux

Warm and sunny , hope it goes well today buddy


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## Sk8-bizarre

jeebsy said:


> Grey clouds on one half of the sky, blue clouds on the other, which way's it going to go....


'WELL!' regardless


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## aaroncornish

Good luck to you both on your first outing


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## GCGlasgow

Just been down for a coffee, all going well so far. And the machine looks the business!


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## jeebsy

View attachment 15087


View attachment 15088


Got pre weighed doses for ek espresso and filter and everything. Cheers to gcglasgow who was the first customer and guinea pig for dialling in!


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## Thecatlinux

That's one lovely setup dude


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## Sk8-bizarre

Rocking it!

It actually looks way better from the serving side but I suppose that is due to a selfish point of view and wanting to use all that machinery.

Kill it man hope you have a busy day!!


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## risky

Out of interest jeebsy is that water the tesco Scottish spring stuff? Have you noticed a difference compared to volvic (except it probably being half the price?)


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## Obsy

Awesome restoration jeebsy. Phenomenal result in such a short space of time. Hope your first outing with her goes well.


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## The Systemic Kid

Stall looks really pukka, jeebsy and the sun is shining too. What more could you need?


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## jeebsy

The Systemic Kid said:


> Stall looks really pukka, jeebsy and the sun is shining too. What more could you need?


A level stall

View attachment 15095


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## Sk8-bizarre

Just be thankful your not on a ship......


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## oursus

Looks great Jeebsy! Have to agree looks better from the cock pit tho!


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## 4515

Looking good

Hope youve had a busy day


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## robashton

Wow - I don't know how I missed this thead.

You made my EKspresso on this rusty bunch of junk??!?!!









Nicely done - makes me want to do the same with a machine just for learning laughs (I'd insta-regret it when it was taking over my living room table though!)


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## jeebsy

Worked wonderfully today. It's a thirsty beast with all the flushing though.

The left group volumetrics are fine but the right is a bit of a funny bugger. Programmed it for 36 and was giving me 48. Programmed it for 20 and it gave me 32ish. Wonder if it's gunked up inside.


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## Thecatlinux

jeebsy said:


> Worked wonderfully today. It's a thirsty beast with all the flushing though.
> 
> The left group volumetrics are fine but the right is a bit of a funny bugger. Programmed it for 36 and was giving me 48. Programmed it for 20 and it gave me 32ish. Wonder if it's gunked up inside.


going by your spirit level I reckon its because the water has got to go uphill .


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## jeebsy

Thecatlinux said:


> going by your spirit level I reckon its because the water has got to go uphill .


I levelled the machine itself using wooden stirrers and 2p coins. Going to get some stripwood to keep in my box to level the boards themselves for next time


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## funinacup

jeebsy said:


> Wonder if it's gunked up inside.


You split the flow meters when you descaled did you not?

New flow meter tops might help.


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## jeebsy

Nah I didn't take them apart. Job for tomorrow maybe.


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## jeebsy

Can't get the top of the one if that was playing up off.

View attachment 15126


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## Thecatlinux

Do you ever sleep !! Would hot water maybe loosen things up


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## jeebsy

I was actually just thinking about going back to bed. Willl try a bit of hot water but think persuading the top off would be two person job as they're quite small


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## coffeechap

Thecatlinux said:


> Do you ever sleep !!


Do you


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## aaroncornish

coffeechap said:


> Do you


If we wanted sleep we would be brewing calpol not coffee


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## Thecatlinux

coffeechap said:


> Do you


I do now, since I no longer need to keep an eye on the for sale section waiting for an elusive one armed bandit.


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## froggystyle

Took the wife to a fancy place in the country last night for our wedding anniversary, they had a mazzer and one of these on the counter, was tempted to have a coffee after dinner but i noted the machine was turned off, had visions of some young waiter firing it straight up and pouring a shot, so decided against.

These machines are actually bigger than i first thought.


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## jeebsy

IMAG1955 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## froggystyle

Huuuuge!


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## jeebsy

Was going to to that side by side with the brewtus but couldn't be arsed listing it. Yeah it's big but it's a commercial two group.


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## Joel.Sim

Found little to no info online as far as temperature stability of these.

How have you found it to be so far??


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## jeebsy

Coffechap said they were good, apparently the pressure transducer is really responsive and they are dead consistent. Gets mega hot if you leave it idling and needs a big flush to bring it back down, but I drank a lot of espresso yesterday and they were all decent.


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## Joel.Sim

jeebsy said:


> Coffechap said they were good, apparently the pressure transducer is really responsive and they are dead consistent. Gets mega hot if you leave it idling and needs a big flush to bring it back down, but I drank a lot of espresso yesterday and they were all decent.


Good to know...

I was just starting to play with the thought of "hmmm, should I install a pid while I've got it apart??"

Maybe I'll get it up and running first and then see how it goes.


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## jeebsy

That did cross my mind but I'm sure there was a thread on piding hxs a while ago and people said it was a bit pointless


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## jeebsy

Think both the impellers have seen better days

View attachment 15138


View attachment 15139


----------



## Joel.Sim

That I'll have to research before faffing about, that's for sure.


----------



## Dylan

PID'ing a HX is fairly pointless, the temperature is not directly regulated via the boiler, the water is cold as it enters the HX boiler pipe, too hot as it exits, and then the mass of the group levels out the temperature before it hits the puck.

Basically the boiler temp is related to the brew temp, but not directly, and it will be different on every machine. If you were to PID a HX you would then need to extensively test your set up to find out what boiler temp related to what brew temp.

I read a thread on HB where someone PID'd their VBM Domobar, and they said it was useful so they could quickly switch between low boiler pressure/temp which allowed him to walk up and pull shots with no flush, and a higher pressure when he had company so could pull back to back shots with minimal recovery time and get more power steaming. But thats a pretty specific usage scenario.


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## jeebsy

Did the veloce or something not have a pid?


----------



## Mrboots2u

jeebsy said:


> Did the veloce or something not have a pid?


New profiec lever has one. Not sure we know what type of system it is yet ( dipper etc )


----------



## Neill

jeebsy said:


> Did the veloce or something not have a pid?


I think the original model did but it got ditched.


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## jeebsy

Can I submerge the flow meters in descaler as long as it doesn't come up past the top and touch the wires/connectors?

The amount in there is tiny and could probably scrub it off with a cloth but when in Rome.


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## funinacup

You can drop the lower halves in, and sit the tops in just enough to cover the insides.


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## Taff

a bit off the current track Jeebs, but how do you run your water with this at the stall? Tank under the table?


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## jlarkin

Taff said:


> a bit off the current track Jeebs, but how do you run your water with this at the stall? Tank under the table?


I've got this one Jeebsy . Mentioned few pages back that it was bottle on the floor but pump was complaining a bit so recommended to try it on level with machine. I've heard (from the last comment ) that a flojet would help.


----------



## jeebsy

Yeah, as Joe said.

I had the tank on the table the on Saturday and it still made the funny noise for a couple of shots but then stopped, so don't know if the pump is just a bit creaky or if having the bottle at the same height helps.


----------



## jeebsy

If anyone is really bored, here's the stripped/descaled/'serviced' flowmeters in action. If they behave the same with the portafilters in I'll be a happy chappy


----------



## funinacup

Looks nice and consistent now.

Did you get new o-rings for them or were the originals ok?


----------



## jeebsy

They looked OK but for the the sake of 10p a side changed them


----------



## bronc

So.. how does it perform in the cup next to the Expobar?


----------



## jeebsy

Dunno, I haven't had them both running with the same bean. Shots from the Mythos were excellent on it though. I'm busy tonight but that could be a weekend job and also to test the flowmeters out in action.


----------



## 4515

Need to stop reading this thread. Last night I had a dream about this machine. Ordered an espresso from the stall and was served an espresso with some over frothy milk and a large spoon of sugar from the orange machine.

Now before you all start, Jeebsy didnt feature in the dream - it was all about the machine and a strange drink that I was served.

Also need to cut back on the red wine I think


----------



## jeebsy

Frankenbolt:

  IMAG1984 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Be gone!

  IMAG1985 by wjheenan, on Flickr


----------



## risky

Wow that's great. Someone did a really nice bit of work there









The previous design is just bizarre. Unless there is a really good reason for it somehow I don't understand why Rancilio don't follow everyone else in having the screw sit flush.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility if the next few shots have tasting notes of



















Will be interesting to see if it does make any difference to the shots though!


----------



## jeebsy

Did a bit of testing today. Left group is fine, it's usually within a couple of grams of target output. The right one was being a bit weird again though, sometimes it would be within 2g, other times it would give me +12.

Took the drip tray out when i was blackflushing so i could see when the water ran clear and noticed that the right solenoid was leaking a lot of water, whereas the one on the left didn't lose any.






The mechanical part in the right one was a bit sticky but thought it cleaned up OK - evidently it's still not quite right. Need to replace that.


----------



## jeebsy

Soak in descaler then a soak in puly has got most of the gunk off the one that was playing up. It's leaking a drop or two most now during a 15 sec backflush. Not perfect but should make a big difference to the volumetrics. Will heat the machine up and fanny about more at dinner time.


----------



## espressotechno

The ruby face on the solenoid valve piston may be worn/chipped/knackered. May be worthwhile fitting a pair of new valve bodies.....


----------



## jeebsy

It's much better than it was and its not leaking now but the bit inside the spring does look slightly corroded. When you say valve bodies do you mean the whole mechanical part?


----------



## jeebsy

Right group - programmed for 40 out - got two more shots of 40 and 40

Left group programmed for 44 - got two more shots of 42 and 44

Job would apparently be a good'un


----------



## espressotechno

Yes, JB, base+shaft+inner piston & spring - no coil. You need to specify which make - Lucifer or Parker.

PM me....


----------

