# Why might a grinder suddenly jump from way too coarse to too fine.



## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2nd Mazzer Mini doing this. Correct burrs and all looks to be ok so any one have any ideas what might be causing it to do this? It's new.

John

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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

The collar is visibly moving?


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

Yes all is going up and down as it should, burrs installed correctly, no adjustment thread damage etc. They are a bit of a pain to adjust as the springs are so stiff but I am used to that from using the other one - also making adjustments.

John

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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

ajohn said:


> Yes all is going up and down as it should, burrs installed correctly, no adjustment thread damage etc. They are a bit of a pain to adjust as the springs are so stiff but I am used to that from using the other one - also making adjustments.
> 
> John
> 
> -


Sorry, I wasn't clear. I meant, are you setting the grinder, then of it's own accord, whilst grinding, the setting moves?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Is it visibly producing coarser grinds ? or are you judging this by shot time


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

The grinder setting isn't changing of it's own accord. That post caused me to check that the burr carrier goes up and down cleanly with the springs out - it does.

Output given with a 30 sec shot. I am at the fine end of the setting range - similar to where I have the other one set which on that gives 40g out for 14g in 30 sec and can go finer without any problems. This one seems to change rather abruptly from say 4 or 5 to 1 down to well sub of 1 to 2.

John

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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

ajohn said:


> The grinder setting isn't changing of it's own accord. That post caused me to check that the burr carrier goes up and down cleanly with the springs out - it does.
> 
> Output given with a 30 sec shot. I am at the fine end of the setting range - similar to where I have the other one set which on that gives 40g out for 14g in 30 sec and can go finer without any problems. This one seems to change rather abruptly from say 4 or 5 to 1 down to well sub of 1 to 2.
> 
> ...


Does it look visibly different?

DO both grinders have the same zero point , same age of burr..

Lots fo stuff can change shot times as well as something going on in the grinder


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

At the moment the weather/ temp / humidity is having an effect.

For basic setting, wind down the collar until the burrs just touch (rotate with fingers / socket) From this point wind the collar back 17 divisions, then

wind tighter by 4 divisions (this removes any backlash in the collar / springs) This should be average setting for grinding, make adjustments to suit bean type / age / temp / weather.

To make adjusting easier, invert a PF basket on top of carrier and apply pressure with heel of hand and adjust collr with other hand.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

The zero points differ but angle wise are more or less the same. The stop screw is in the correct place on the first one - as some one mentioned probably a fluke. It just about prevents the burrs from touching.

This one differs. No3 on the dial causes the burrs to rub. A notch and a but further locks them. I'm grinding at 4 give or take a few notches which angle wise is very similar to the other one.







I'll now have to count notches from the one under the 4 rather than from one of the holes in the rim on the other.

Burr age is difficult. First one came from Cafe Italia refurbished. I was told it would have a few dose counts. It came with 3,600 odd. No complaints, I had a very generous refund. Burrs appeared to be brand new, very sharp and was told it came from Mazzer and had spent some time at an exhibition. It was as clean as new even with fresh Mazzer lube. No reason to disbelieve them. I ran around 800g of fresh roasted and supermarket beans through it before really doing much with it. All oldish and I got the impression that this did improve the grind but didn't spend much time on it before seriously tuning with it. While running in I managed to find a setting close to where the SGP was set but following running the beans through I suspect I needed to go a few notches finer to get to the same.

I've done more or less the same with this one but finding a base setting while doing this isn't working out. Currently it has Lidl barrel beans in - crap yes but I have managed to tune with them before. It's had more like 1kg run through but 500g of those were oldish oily monsooned. 250g was the same as the bean I used on the other one Sumatra Mandheling. I've give up trying to use that as I want to on the DB.

John

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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

ajohn said:


> The zero points differ but angle wise are more or less the same. The stop screw is in the correct place on the first one - as some one mentioned probably a fluke. It just about prevents the burrs from touching.
> 
> This one differs. No3 on the dial causes the burrs to rub. A notch and a but further locks them. I'm grinding at 4 give or take a few notches which angle wise is very similar to the other one.
> 
> ...


You have run 3600 dose counts plus 800g through both grinders?


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

MWJB said:


> You have run 3600 dose counts plus 800g through both grinders?


LOL No the first mini came with a dose count of 3,600 and as I said was fitted with what look to be brand new burrs. It was described as a refurb - cleaned up etc by Mazzer.

This 2nd one had a dose count of 3. Now 10 but I have been using the manual button to grind most of the time.

But yes I have run 800g through both grinders. More on this 2nd one.

@El carajillo makes an interesting point. I have noticed a sort of dead spot when making very fine adjustments on the other one - easy fractional movement then going stiff. I assume it's down to the wings coming clear of the slots they run in and then rubbing on them on the opposite side. Maybe that is the problem. The new one is extremely stiff to adjust. I seem to have attended to that now. Relubed using an Italian food grade grease and also wound the burr adjustment all of the way down with the burr carrier out. The fit of the thread was getting rather tight when screwed well in. Working it back and forth past where it could normally go a bit has smoothed it out a lot. There is so little grease on that it can't be seen.

Having seen what Mazzer use I'm tempted to get some of what looks to be the same style of grease. Most of the foodsafe greases are just silicone. Some are also loaded with ptfe and are suitable for what they call incidental contact with food. The main problem with obtaining it is the quantity. One tin would probably be fine for a grinder service person who spent all of their working hours greasing grinders for their entire life - maybe their off springs too.

One thing I hadn't mentioned is that the hopper is on but it was on the other as well. The setting is notch wise where suggested. I reckon 12 counted like that. This is around where the problem occurs.

John

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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

Well that got me no where. It looks to me like it's clumping more than it should and that's messing the grind up as they can't get out of the burrs cleanly. Why pass as I can't find anything wrong with it. The grinding rate is also a lot slower than my other one. That fits in with it choking up.

John

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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Tightness towards the bottom of the adjustment is often caused by coffee grounds building up and jamming in the root of the thread ( collar and machine) A very stiff tooth brush is a great help to clean the root of the threads.


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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

ajohn said:


> Well that got me no where. It looks to me like it's clumping more than it should and that's messing the grind up as they can't get out of the burrs cleanly. Why pass as I can't find anything wrong with it. The grinding rate is also a lot slower than my other one. That fits in with it choking up.
> 
> John
> 
> -


Slacken the grind off.

You have told us the zero point of one of the grinders but not the other?

Even so, manufacturing tolerances may have a part to play.

But as yet, we have no evidence that the grind fineness/coarseness changes at a different rate between the 2 grinders.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

Slackening the grind setting off is an obvious thing to do if the shot comes out too small and tightening if the other way round. Also wasting grinds each time the grind setting is changed to clear the grind chamber of the ones from the previous setting. The problem starts when it gets into the usual espresso range. Also as mentioned I have already bean through this on the other one. Can't count notches on that because zero is about 1 notch away from the the stop screw prevents it from rotating finer. I can guess that it's usually around 12 notches. Beans or taste might need a couple either side of that but 2 coarser sound a lot to me.

The thread size of the 2 grinders is as would be expected identical. It's the pitch that sets the adjustment rate. Realistic diameter tolerances would have a very small effect on burr spacing. The thread's not loose or anything like that.

One aspect I had forgot was the SGP. Before emptying it and putting it to one side I tried grinding some of the beans I was using on this Mini. No problems at a setting I would normally use for them even though they are a bit old - around a month and a half or so. The shot was passable taste wise but not what I would usually get.

I don't think the tightness as the adjuster gets screwed in further and further was down to grinds. More lack of lubrication and probably a little tightness in the thread. The adjustment is fairly smooth now. I'll probably do the same with the other one.

I can't see any obvious burr wobble etc either but it's rather hard to check that the upper burr is true to the lower one. I suspect the problem is down to something like that.

John

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## iulianato (May 5, 2015)

ajohn said:


> I can't see any obvious burr wobble etc either but it's rather hard to check that the upper burr is true to the lower one. I suspect the problem is down to something like that.
> 
> John
> 
> -


You can use marker method to check how badly the burrs are aligned.


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## Nod (Sep 7, 2013)

I might have go the wrong end of the stick but this is not a distribution issue is it? Do you have a consistent and reliable or shot prep method?


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

iulianato said:


> You can use marker method to check how badly the burrs are aligned.


The best option seems to be to send it back. Left alone, previous grinds settings cleared and it's not even stable shot to shot at the same setting. Might come out either rather short or rather long even though the grind weight is always the same. This is nothing remotely like my other Mini. It produces miniature oxo cubes at times in rather large numbers that are pretty firm.

I have had light relief in between via shots from the other one so not a weather etc problem. Also found my wife likes my favourite bean if I leave dose and grind the same that suites me and reduce the shot time to 20sec.

John

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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

ajohn said:


> LOL No the first mini came with a dose count of 3,600 and as I said was fitted with what look to be brand new burrs. It was described as a refurb - cleaned up etc by Mazzer.
> 
> This 2nd one had a dose count of 3. Now 10 but I have been using the manual button to grind most of the time.
> 
> ...


I'm still unclear on the difference or not between burrs. You fitted brand new burrs to the first grinder? Why would they change burrs at a few tens of kg when burr life is projected to be 300kg (another 11,000 double shots, at least, to go)?

You seem to be focussing on any aspect apart from the gap between the burrs (zero point vs gap), burr age (maybe seasoned vs definitely not) & coffee particle difference?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Mazzer burrs on the SJ had quite a bit of freedom sideways when you're trying to centre them.

I'm not sure what the mini burrs are like. When we (el carajillo) did mine we ended up packing them from the side to try and centre them equally.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

You haven't even run these burrs in at all, one has had a fair amount of use the other is brand new, of course there will be a difference.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

also when aligning them (it has to be done) mark the burr carrier so that you place it back on the same springs you took it off, it just removes any variables when shimming and adjusting the burrs with foil.

Its possible but very unlikely on a new machine that the lower burr carrier might be out of alignment - just keep this in mind as you do your burr alignment

Ive found on some of the mazzers ive aligned that even with a perfect lower burr carrier the upper burr needed shimming with up to 4 pieces of foil to get the burrs aligned


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## Obnic (Jan 14, 2014)

You could swap the new-grinder burrs into your old grinder to explore whether you still get shot to shot differences.

If you do, then try grinding a bulk load of beans to see if things start to settle down. I'm with CC on this. I found the Mini quite tricky until the burrs were well used.

The numbering on Mazzer collars means very little. You still must establish zero point and wind out from there. Frank's +17 -3 method is spot on.

Changing grinders always exposes gaps in one's puck prep. I would want to sure that distribution is not the cause of wild variation in shot times.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

If you have been using very sticky oily beans MM, these leave a lot of residue on the wiper arms and underneath the lower carrier, this continues to collect fine powdery residue from other beans. This does not help in accurate dosing. Also the oily residue collects on the anti static screen which does not help.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

All good tips for people with problem grinders.

It's had over a kg through it now and behaviour is nothing like the other one and hasn't been at any point.







I can understand why people might not believe that the other one came with new burrs fitted however I do. In any case 3,600 shots is rather a lot of coffee. 800g through did improve that one.

I am working where Frank suggests. On this one the number 3 centred on the index mark is where the burrs just touch. I notch or so further locks them. The 17 -3 is quicker than the method I used on the other one - I adjusted for the same shot as my SGP gave which took several goes. The first thing I did with the first one was mark one of the wings so that I could always put the burrs back in the same place. No one told me too but it seemed to be a good idea. I've had the burrs off both of them and have noticed how loosely they are located - not as badly as that suggest but leaving a feeling that they could do better. Centralise them when fitting.

Distribution is the problem on this one - tiny oxo cubes come out at times - cut with the piece of mesh over the outlet from the grinds chamber. As things stand a change of grind setting would need the grind chamber cleaning out manually. It's taken a lot lot longer to run the grinds through it what ever beans are in it. In short it's choking up and the other one didn't. When things are machined as the parts are in a grinder lemons can crop up and I think I have bought one.

The dose count when it arrived was 3 and I have noticed something odd about it. I decided to clean it out and load beans that should grind easily. The screws that hold the 45 degree part in the funnel were remarkably loose. The dose count of 3 could just be down to Mazzer checking that the buttons work and the screws a fluke.

The serial numbers on both show that they were made in 2017 - first 2 digits of the serial number. I wasn't aware of this. Cropped up in another thread.

John

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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

You have told us twice that the new grinder zeroes at 3, I'm not sure you have told us where the older grinder zeroes.

It's not that I don't believe the old grinder had brand new burrs, it's just you can't provide anything solid to confirm this other than a hunch.

It's entirely possible that the "same" shot will take different times between the mini & the SGP.

If you want to return the grinder, do so. If you're sure it's defective you should.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

MWJB said:


> If you want to return the grinder, do so. If you're sure it's defective you should.


That's my conclusion - not made lightly either.

I can't easily use Frank's method to state what the zero point is or where I am working with it on the one that is ok. The stop screw on that one just about prevents the burrs from touching within a notch or so. When turned to reach that position the screw itself wont line up with the index mark it finishes up left of it. That's down to the register it runs in.







Afraid I am not going to unscrew the lot to use check against Frank's way as I am currently making my drinks with it. I did mention a guesstimate of where it is set Frank's way and it's in the same region. I have worked finer using smaller baskets than the current one I am using.

When I tuned it to achieve very similar volumes out with the same dose compared with the SGP one of the holes that takes the adjustment lever was centred over the index mark. Lots of water under the bridge since using various sizes of basket etc and I find I am so far always working finer than that position but can use it as a reference for counting notches.

New one - no chance of using the stop screw at all. It's just a hindererence if the burrs need cleaning. It's nearly 3 numbers of the dial going finer than where the burrs touch. It's also by a different number on the dial.

John

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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

Why can't t you just forget the dial and numbers and adjust backwArds from the touching point. The fact the numbers do not correlate to the dial is irrelevant


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

dfk41 said:


> Why can't t you just forget the dial and numbers and adjust backwArds from the touching point. The fact the numbers do not correlate to the dial is irrelevant


Just who said I count numbers ? I just mentioned that they are different in relationship to the stop screw hole and that the stop screw on one of them is pointless.

If I know where the touching point is one way or the other without actually getting them to touch your suggestion sounds a bit bizarre to me. Ahhh I get it on the one where the stop screw does what it should I should unscrew it and then adjust till the burrs touch and then set the setting.

John

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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

Not knowing the inner workings of a Mazzer Mini, but having had dozens of grinders through my hands I really do fail to understand your problem. that is not strictly accurate. You sound as though you have a solid knowledge in engineering or the likes, but very limited knowledge in coffee equipment. You look for problems where they do not exist John. you make no allowance for all of the variables that go into making a cuppa and instead concentrate on particular areas. I often read your posts and in your very first line you usually contradict yourself which always makes me smile.

I am suggesting forget stop screws. With the motor running, wind the burrs up to chirping. Move them back an amount that makes you happy. Pull a shot, too quick tighten, to slow loosen...forget the dial......forget the stop screw......remember this is a cheap grinder with factory tolerances built in.......no two will be the same.....and remember that the beans you are drinking will vary from batch to batch....


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

dfk41 said:


> Not knowing the inner workings of a Mazzer Mini, but having had dozens of grinders through my hands I really do fail to understand your problem. that is not strictly accurate. You sound as though you have a solid knowledge in engineering or the likes, but very limited knowledge in coffee equipment. You look for problems where they do not exist John. you make no allowance for all of the variables that go into making a cuppa and instead concentrate on particular areas. I often read your posts and in your very first line you usually contradict yourself which always makes me smile.
> 
> I am suggesting forget stop screws. With the motor running, wind the burrs up to chirping. Move them back an amount that makes you happy. Pull a shot, too quick tighten, to slow loosen...forget the dial......forget the stop screw......remember this is a cheap grinder with factory tolerances built in.......no two will be the same.....and remember that the beans you are drinking will vary from batch to batch....


LOL You have clearly lost the *thread. *Maybe something else as well. Did you notice what the problem is? Probably not just more completely irrelevant comments instead.

John

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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

dfk41 said:


> Not knowing the inner workings of a Mazzer Mini, but having had dozens of grinders through my hands I really do fail to understand your problem. that is not strictly accurate. You sound as though you have a solid knowledge in engineering or the likes, but very limited knowledge in coffee equipment. You look for problems where they do not exist John. you make no allowance for all of the variables that go into making a cuppa and instead concentrate on particular areas. I often read your posts and in your very first line you usually contradict yourself which always makes me smile.
> 
> I am suggesting forget stop screws. With the motor running, wind the burrs up to chirping. Move them back an amount that makes you happy. Pull a shot, too quick tighten, to slow loosen...forget the dial......forget the stop screw......remember this is a cheap grinder with factory tolerances built in.......no two will be the same.....and remember that the beans you are drinking will vary from batch to batch....


Probably the more pertinent questions is why anyone would have two mini mazzers anyway....


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## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I feel like I'm in a parallel universe reading this. Anyone new to espresso and what have you must be confused/confounded as to what the heck you need to do with a grinder to grind beans.

dfk and others have made perfect sense, in my view. You asked why your grinder jumped from too coarse to too fine. Set the grinder to just touching, as has been advised, adjust back from there. Weigh in, weigh out, time it. Why are you complicating things all the time?

All these threads . . . They all end up going the same way . . . .


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

ajohn said:


> LOL You have clearly lost the *thread. *Maybe something else as well. Did you notice what the problem is? Probably not just more completely irrelevant comments instead.
> 
> John
> 
> -


I actually think you have lost the plot not DFK to almost an obsessive point over a mediocre grinder, of which you now have 3! Do yourself a favour, stop messing about with the apparent difference of grinders that you have not run in yet, sell all of them and get a a really good grinder like a used mythos with the proceeds.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

I'm quite astonished you bought a second identical grinder when the first apparently needed it's burrs replacing after circa 3.6k shots going through it. That's nothing in a commercial setting.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Could the powers that be please close this thread before we all lose the plot and the will to live.


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## Obnic (Jan 14, 2014)

El carajillo said:


> Could the powers that be please close this thread before we all lose the plot and the will to live.


Too late.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

MildredM said:


> I feel like I'm in a parallel universe reading this. Anyone new to espresso and what have you must be confused/confounded as to what the heck you need to do with a grinder to grind beans.
> 
> dfk and others have made perfect sense, in my view. You asked why your grinder jumped from too coarse to too fine. Set the grinder to just touching, as has been advised, adjust back from there. Weigh in, weigh out, time it. Why are you complicating things all the time?
> 
> All these threads . . . They all end up going the same way . . . .


Maybe with a touch of Deja Vu too.

I haven't objected to the setting methods mentioned. In fact I pointed out it's quicker than what I did on the first one. I did a bit when a certain "gentleman" went on about it again in a certain fashion after it has already been mentioned a lot more succinctly.

Anyway the heading of the post was a question. Solved. The grind setting isn't changing but shot behaviour suggests it is. In summary for some reason it's choking and producing a number of hard lumps at random with grind time for the same dose going all over the place as a result and the shot produced as well either too low or too high even if the setting isn't changed. Those aren't small changes either. It starts doing this before the setting that has been suggested has been reached - in tuning terms well before.

The other one - in short doesn't do any of this.

1kg of beans to condition beans - that came from this forum. Did it achieve anything on the the one that is ok - yes it did. Has it on this one - no.

John

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## iulianato (May 5, 2015)

How do you know that the first grinder had new burrs. At 3-4k shots the burrs will be as new but settled and you will not notice any wearing. On the second grinder the new burrs won't settle with 1kg. So imo you're expecting apple taste from oranges.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Big burrs, smallish motor - im calling the capacitor - I would also think that the motor may be settling turn it on and leave it running for 15 mins without beans in - its a bit like a car the motors are not as powerfull of efficient when new. I have to say that if I had 2 -3 mini,s I would sell up and upgrade - the mini was mazzers response to the domestic market using their commercials in the home setting, Its a question of burrs, watts, chasis - im not convinced that they didn't compromise things here and there- but Ive never owned one so do not know,

At this point the doubt would have set in about the grinder in my mind every time I use it - I would be examining the entrails of every grind, taking the fun away and focus on flavour -

if space is the issue the a ceado E37s 83mm will move things on nicely - I like big Burrs I can not lie what other members can deny,,,,or just save yourself a load of cash and go SH Major, light fluffy grinds every time for ever.


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## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

Having just done a 'clean, paint and new burrs' rebuild on a SJ, I am feeling either rather lucky that I am getting good grinding results (albeit finicky adjustments) from a bodgit and scarper job!

In this thread there has been reference to shims, marker pen methods et al.

I have yet to find a solid thread that covers this subject, could someone please point me in the right direction so I can understand and appreciate the discussion in this thread?

Thanks.


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## iulianato (May 5, 2015)

Here is the bh guide for ek43 but the same applies for any flat burr.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Just make sure the burrs are central on the carriers as well


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

ashcroc said:


> I'm quite astonished you bought a second identical grinder when the first apparently needed it's burrs replacing after circa 3.6k shots going through it. That's nothing in a commercial setting.


As that really could cause some confusion. The first one I bought was a refurbished grinder. The sellers expected it to have a very low dose count so the 3,600 could be any number of 10,000 doses higher. On the other hand who ever refurbished it may simply have changed burrs. It was dead clean as supplied. Not a trace of grinds anywhere.







Down to expecting the dose count to show just a few i really went over the top checking that and one or two other aspects as well especially the bearings. At the time I didn't know about Mazzer date coding. The sellers told me that it had been used at an exhibition for a few weeks. I've no reason to disbelieve them. It also seems to be ex mazzer. That may or may not be true.

John

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## Nikko (Aug 20, 2014)

jimbojohn55 said:


> ..... I would also think that the motor may be settling turn it on and leave it running for 15 mins without beans in - its a bit like a car the motors are not as powerfull of efficient when new.....


This is silly.


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## MWJB (Feb 28, 2012)

ajohn said:


> As that really could cause some confusion. The first one I bought was a refurbished grinder. The sellers expected it to have a very low dose count so the 3,600 could be any number of 10,000 doses higher. On the other hand who ever refurbished it may simply have changed burrs. It was dead clean as supplied. Not a trace of grinds anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


"may have simply changed the burrs"

"could be any number of 10,000 doses higher"

"That may or may not be true"

...isn't it simpler to say you don't know, rather than make statements, then contradict them all? It's a waste of key strokes & time reading such a post, you could say the grinder was found on the Mongolian steppes, revealed by a thawing glacier in 8000 year old ice, that 'may/could/may or may not be' true too. We're still no wiser.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

MildredM said:


> I feel like I'm in a parallel universe reading this.
> 
> All these threads . . . They all end up going the same way . . . .


I've just read these from scratch this morning

http://


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

I think I've just removed the stop screw on both of my Mazzers.

With the laser dial I've just made the absolute touching point zero on my dial.


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## iulianato (May 5, 2015)

Here is everything you need to know about Zero.

Zero is not just 0, it is something remarcabile. Find Zero!


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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

If you hold a book above a bench, say six inches high, then half t to three inches then half it again etc etc, does it ever touch the bench?


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## iulianato (May 5, 2015)

If you read the book and makes you wiser you will find a better way to finally put it on the bench. :wink:


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## Obnic (Jan 14, 2014)

iulianato said:


> If you read the book [it would] make you wiser ....


 In Dave's case just better informed.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

dfk41 said:


> If you hold a book above a bench, say six inches high, then half t to three inches then half it again etc etc, does it ever touch the bench?


Depends if you round up or down when you get to a subatomic level.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

ajohn said:


> As that really could cause some confusion. The first one I bought was a refurbished grinder. The sellers expected it to have a very low dose count so the 3,600 could be any number of 10,000 doses higher. On the other hand who ever refurbished it may simply have changed burrs. It was dead clean as supplied. Not a trace of grinds anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah now I think I understand. By being 'manufacturer refurbished' you're baselessly assuming they changed the burrs instead of just cleaning everything up & reusing if still good. No grounds anywhere suggests to me they never bothered testing after reassembly.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

It "seems to be" ex Mazzer What leads you to this conclusion ? Once sold I doubt Mazzer would be interested in refurbishing, they would probably just bin it and sell another one.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

El carajillo said:


> It "seems to be" ex Mazzer What leads you to this conclusion ? Once sold I doubt Mazzer would be interested in refurbishing, they would probably just bin it and sell another one.


Conversation with the sellers. No way of checking so seems. Interesting conversation though as included why some avoid them. I'd say that their biggest problem is not making people aware that they are buying from Italy. That when there are problems can lead to complications. It did in my case but both parties finished up happy. Well I did anyway, they *seemed to.*








No idea why the steppes came into it. As far as I know all mazzer electronic dose counters just roll over to zero at 10,000. Why 2 - I rather like the one I have.

There is a world of difference between qualifications and contradictions but maybe some live in a black and white world. Afraid I don't.

John

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