# Worn Mazzer titanium burrs



## chewy (Jan 16, 2013)

I bought an ex-Costa Mazzer Major about 6 months ago which came with titanium burrs. Since this is was used in a commercial environment I may need to replace the burrs (which I've attached pictures). The existing burrs have no markings on the back and given that the machine is from 2015 I'm not sure whether they are aftermarket or original.

From my shoddy pictures can anybody advise me either way whether they need replacing? It is only certain angles that show wear on the cutting edges.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

I would think if you run your finger across the blades and the feel sharp then they're ok. If they feel soft then they're done.


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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

you need to know which part of the burrs crush and which part grind. It does not matter if the crushing part feel less sharp or has nicks in


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

From what I see above these are OK but what we need is another shot where the whole frame is filled with maybe 10 cutting edges taken at a similar angle to the pic on the right but concentrating on the foreground and lit in a manner to accentuate any bluntness of the edges.

These nasty ones for example:


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

They look like brand new replacements to me....the coating is only thin, so any significant wear would be obvious.


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## chewy (Jan 16, 2013)

I cannot zoom in any closer with any of my camera lenses without it losing focus. If they were sharp would they draw blood if you ran your fingers over them?


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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

they look fine to me. chuck them in and try them!


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

chewy said:


> I cannot zoom in any closer with any of my camera lenses without it losing focus. If they were sharp would they draw blood if you ran your fingers over them?


You are unlikely to cut yourself on burrs even when brand new. Looking at the pics they look good. A macro shot would've been good but if that's not possible then I'd say put them in.


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## teejay41 (Mar 9, 2015)

Make sure the rotating burr, the lower one, is perfectly centred... there's a bit of lateral slop to play with from the securing screws. A micrometer type dial gauge helps here.

Tony.


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## chewy (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I gave the upper chamber a good hoover to make sure there weren't any grinds underneath the burrs. For record these are the burrs I've been using since I got the grinder 6 months ago.


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## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

Has anyone tried to sharpen the steel or titanium burrs? I know they're pretty tough but there are tools out there that would do it relatively easily I would guess.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

ou would need a precision grinding machine with index on calibrated to the teeth spacing. Similar to a gear cutting machine.

If you only ground the flat section you would reduce the throat depth (where the grounds are finally sized)


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

lookseehear said:


> Has anyone tried to sharpen the steel or titanium burrs? I know they're pretty tough but there are tools out there that would do it relatively easily I would guess.


I've never heard of it being done and I don't know of any tools that would do it easily....but interested to hear if anyone is doing it. I also assume they are case hardened after being milled in the factory.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ive restored the edge of a few teeth on some steel brazillia burrs using a diamond coated nail file - they flex so that you can get the same curve as the grinding wheel that cut them originally - if the burrs are titanium coated it is likely that any kind of filing will remove the coating - is it a viable procedure yes will it drive you bonkers possibly, chances of success - no idea, possible saving huge.

if you were to have a go, you need to practice first then count the file strokes.


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## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

I was thinking along the lines of the very fine diamond files that are commonly used to sharpen hardened steel tools for woodworking (my new passion after coffee!). I would imagine that just touching up the edges might make a difference without really changing the profile of the burrs.


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