# Gaggia Classic Steam Valve leaking



## tallpaul (Dec 1, 2016)

I'm in the middle of refurbing a Gaggia Classic, and trying to get it up and running for Xmas if possible.

So far:

Dead pump has been replaced.

Boiler/solenoid and OPV have been stripped down and descaled.

Silvia steam wand fitted.

Relevant O-rings have been replaced.

All is now working, but I have a considerable leak coming from around the black plastic protective disc on the steam valve.

Does this mean that the steam valve needs replacing/modifying.

If so where can I get a new one? They seem to be very thin on the ground in the UK (or maybe my google foo is lacking).

I've come across the Tex mod, but I'm not sure I'd be happy performing this mod without a backup (Although it will give me an excuse to buy a dremel







).

For anyone who has performed the mod and has tapped the valve and fitted a nut, what size tap/die did you use and what nut did you use?

Also I've removed the bolts securing the valve to the boiler, but can't move the valve at all. There is a lot of limescale there. Any tips on how to remove without damaging anything?

A fair few questions for a first post, but I'd really appreciate the help.


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

Don't bother mucking about with tapping the end. When grinding the collar off, leave about 5mm intact. When you screw the valve open the little bit you left will get forced out of the way. When reassembling it you can then give this bit a squeeze with pliers to crimp it over slightly to prevent you accidentally opening the valve too far. Sure it's not idiot proof...but it's a lot simpler. Besides,opening the valve for steaming doesn't need more than a few turns.

By the sounds of it the Internal O-ring seal has failed. These are slightly annoying to get hold of, bit I did find one that fitted. I'll have to dig out my supply and check the ID and OD, but it wasn't a basic standard size.


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

To remove the valve I usually get a massive flat head screwdriver underneath the valve and start getting a little wiggle happening to listen it a tiny bit. I then rotate the valve side to side to get leverage in several different spots and work my way around gently lifting the valve off.


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## tallpaul (Dec 1, 2016)

timmyjj21 said:


> Don't bother mucking about with tapping the end. When grinding the collar off, leave about 5mm intact. When you screw the valve open the little bit you left will get forced out of the way. When reassembling it you can then give this bit a squeeze with pliers to crimp it over slightly to prevent you accidentally opening the valve too far. Sure it's not idiot proof...but it's a lot simpler. Besides,opening the valve for steaming doesn't need more than a few turns.
> 
> By the sounds of it the Internal O-ring seal has failed. These are slightly annoying to get hold of, bit I did find one that fitted. I'll have to dig out my supply and check the ID and OD, but it wasn't a basic standard size.


That's a great help, and any info about the O-ring would be great, and where you sourced one too if possible. Cheers.


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## tallpaul (Dec 1, 2016)

Just to make sure I order the correct o-ring for inside the steam valve is the following suitable:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/8mm-x-4mm-x-2mm-Fluorine-Rubber-O-Ring-Oil-Sealing-Gaskets/1463832_32648350498.html


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

8mm? No way. Pretty sure it is a 6.1mm OD.

I will get back to you when I'm home and can check my little bag of spares.


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## coffeeservice (Dec 4, 2016)

If you want I have the refurb. steam valve.


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## tallpaul (Dec 1, 2016)

@timmyjj21. That would be a great help.

@Coffeeservice. Thanks for the offer, but I already have one on the way


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

Sorry, you were right. The O-rings are about 8mm!

I used some Viton O-rings labelled as 1.6 x 5...So that's 5mm ID and 1.6mm thick, making it 8.2mm OD.

i thought that 8mm was a fraction too small, but never tested it and went the slightly bigger size.


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## tallpaul (Dec 1, 2016)

Thanks for the info timmyjj21.


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