# misaligned classic?



## toString (Jun 18, 2014)

Hi, I've got a 2nd hand classic, had it for a couple of weeks I guess now. I fitted the silvia wand when I got it, which was a lot harder than other videos and picture guides made it seem. Mostly because the nut is further inside the case of the unit compared to everyone elses..

I've also noticed recently that the steam knob is rather stiff to first turn it, but now looking closer, it seems to be rubbing against the metal of the case - causing the stiffness, and also slightly scratching the plastic of it.

Just wondered if this is something normal, something that just happens, this unit is damaged, etc. But more importantly, how can I fix it.. I took the lid off but couldn't really see anyway to move things 'down' a bit...

Some pics, which aren't too helpful..


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Switch is on the wrong way, remove and refit 180 turn


----------



## froggystyle (Oct 30, 2013)

Guess the last person forgot to put label on steam valve before stripping it! This way up


----------



## toString (Jun 18, 2014)

Thanks for the quick replies guys! However I'm sorry I don't really know what you're refering to... The switch is on the wrong way and the steam value is on wrong? Even looking at the pictures I took I'm not sure what you mean.. I'm sorry!


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The problem is that when the boiler was fixed in the case it was tightened up in the wrong place. It is best to put the boiler in the case loosely then temporarily fit the steam knob,move the boiler until the steam knob is central in the cut out THEN tighten the boiler in place.

To overcome this unplug and remove the top (two screws) with an allen key slacken the four bolts on the underside of the brew head (around where P/F fits) Move the boiler about until the steam knob is central in the cut out, re tighten the four allen screws making sure nothing moves. Refit the top not forgetting the earth connection, job done.









One other place where there is a small amount of movement/adjustment is in the steam valve itself, providing it has not been in for too long slackening the two bolts holding it to the boiler will permit a small amount of lateral movement. If it has been in the M/ch very long they are usually corroded in !!!


----------



## toString (Jun 18, 2014)

Ok so I undid the 4 bolts, moved it about a bit and there wasn't much play at all. I mostly just tightened the bolts more nearest the steam knob side so that it was ever so slightly lower than the other side. But this made very little difference and still brushes against the case









I tried the 2 bolts that attach the steam valve to the boiler but they were very tight and I think I'd need to take the whole thing out to try it..

Anything else I could try?


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

toString said:


> Ok so I undid the 4 bolts, moved it about a bit and there wasn't much play at all. I mostly just tightened the bolts more nearest the steam knob side so that it was ever so slightly lower than the other side. But this made very little difference and still brushes against the case
> 
> 
> 
> ...


NO , unfortunately those are the only two adjustments, the biggest adjustment is probably on the steam valve but if the bolts are tight so probably would be the valve in the boiler.

Try holding the M/ch and use a piece of pipe or a an adjustable spanner on the alan key to get more torque. Once freed use a flat bladed S/driver to lever the S/arm up loose from boiler, once free wiggle back and forth to ease out. There is an "O" ring seal inside but they can be re used if OK. Try this.


----------

