# Gaggia Classic - Tripping the electrics



## odox (May 16, 2013)

Hi Guys,

I cleaned out my Gaggia last night, I gave it a proper scrub around the group head etc. I had the machine turned upside down during a lot of the work - was this a mistake? Once I got everything back together again and turned the machine on it tripped out the electrics in the house.

After some experimentation it would appear that if I disconnect a terminal on the 'steam temperature switch (55)' then it comes on again without anything tripping - however the boiler is not warming up, presumably because of the switch being bypassed?

Is it likely I damaged the switch during the cleaning session, or is this just bypassing a larger problem?

Thanks.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Machines tripping fuses is usually indicative of an element problem, check all the connections on the elements, one might have come loose, did water get into the switches?


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> Machines tripping fuses is usually indicative of an element problem, check all the connections on the elements, one might have come loose, did water get into the switches?


All connections seem (and look) ok, possible some water got into the switches.. I didn't really do much to cover them up. I've tried drying it out for quite a bit now.


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## series530 (Jan 4, 2013)

My suggestion would be water getting inside one of the switches or sensors as well. Water is a pretty poor insulator so has a relatively low resistance. Put a voltage difference across a line and an earth and a small current will flow if there is dampness. It doesn't take much for the leakage current to trip an RCD and kill your electrics.

my suggestion would be to remove the top of the Gaggia and stick the whole thing in an airing cupboard for a few days (if you have one). This may be enough to dry out any residual dampness.

Alternatively, if you have a multi meter, disconnect the Gaggia from the mains supply completely, attach one probe to the case of the unit and probe around on any easily reachable terminals. You should see several thousand ohms or, better still, an open circuit. If you find a lower value then start systematically pulling out connections and see if the resistance increases. That may help you get nearer to the source. After you pull out a connection, make sure you plug it back in again afterwards. I agree, the switches are a good place to start.


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I decided to dismantle the whole thing so I could see what was going on. I followed this http://protofusion.org/wordpress/2012/04/gaggia-classic-disassembly-and-cleaning/ and stripped down all the parts. I've given them a good scrub out (actually wasn't as bad as I was expecting!) and i've currently got both half's of boiler drying out on the radiator right now. I'll assemble it all later on once it's dried out and see if that makes any difference.

I don't have access to a multi-meter right now but I can borrow one from work later and give that a go if I don't get anywhere.

I'll report back if I make any progress, feel free to send me some more tips in the meantime!


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

Ok screwed everything back up - I put the boiler in the oven at about 100c for 40 mins to dry out - plugged it in. Everything is working! (touch wood). The flow is looking much much better too so i'm chuffed! Going to get some priming going on and a few tests but so far all looking good!


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

Ok so I pulled a few shots through last night - all seemed to be working well so I left it until the morning.

Then I turned the boiler on this morning and left it for around 15 mins to warm up. Once it had I attempted to pull my first shot through, everything buzzed up as normal but no shot. At first I thought that maybe i'd tamped too hard but after checking the flow barely any water was coming through the group.

I tried a few different things. At first it looked like the pump wasn't taking any water in. Eventually after running some hot water through the wand, the group started flowing again.

I'll give it another go tonight when I get back home but it seems odd behaviour. Any ideas what might be causing this?

I also noticed the steam wand is leaking a little, so I'm guessing the valve might need replacing after my initial clean?


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## rodabod (Dec 4, 2011)

Did you warm it up dry then?

You're meant to draw water through it from cold to avoid damaging the element, as far as I know.


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

I'm pretty sure the tank had some water in it as the wand was dripping but is there an easy way to tell?

I have a feeling the fault might be due to the steam valve leaking but would like some confirmation from someone more experienced than me


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## jonners (Apr 26, 2013)

Maybe an airlock? You could try the priming procedure described here: http://www.partsguru.com/user/Gaggia%20Classic%20Step%20by%20Step.pdf


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

I'm pretty sure it wasn't an airlock as the machine was already primed the night before and I hadn't let the tank run dry. I have a feeling the wand may have been the cause....

Is it normal procedure to run some hot water through the wand first before making your first shot?


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## series530 (Jan 4, 2013)

When I had a Gaggia I always primed things before I pulled shots:

For the porta filter, run water through it for a few seconds and let the water drop into a cup or the drip tray.

For the steam wand, open the vent and let it hiss and spit for a couple of seconds.

Irrespective of the benefit to the machine (which is immense) it also tends to improve the shots.

Also, having finished pulling shots I always turned the machine back to porta filter mode and opened the steam wand so as to release pressure in the steam section and then I ran water through the group head so as to clean out any coffee residue from the shower screen for a few seconds so as to clean out that section and sort of prime thing ready for the next usage. I also always cleaned the shower screen with a cloth once I had rinsed the head so as to remove any residue which had become released.


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

series530 said:


> When I had a Gaggia I always primed things before I pulled shots.


I'm pretty sure I did most of what you described. When I flicked the boiler on this morning, should I have ran the porta filter for a few seconds before waiting for it to heat up (despite running water through the group head the night before, so 7-8hrs). If I did not would this have caused an airlock?

I was thinking 'no', hence why I wonder if it's the steam valve at fault. But I don't really understand it's operation enough to conclude this yet.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

When you say the steam valve is leaking !!! Is this an odd drip or is there a constant steady dribble.If there is a steady dribble , because the steam valve is taken off at the top of the boiler it could be that the water in the boiler is escaping through the valve as it warms up leaving an air space in the top of the boiler when you start to brew.The steam valve is a simple brass needle in a tapered orifice which cuts off the steam flow. The valves are prone to weep slightly BUT are made worse by over tightening when shutting off.They are non repairable,when you replace it just close it off gently finger tight . S/valves are a bit of a pig to get out as they tend to corrode into the top of the boiler (a large screwdriver is useful as a lever )


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## gaggiamanualservice.com (Dec 22, 2009)

email [email protected] with your mobile if still tripping, i have way to clear it


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## odox (May 16, 2013)

Thanks Mark, once I gave the boiler a proper dry out it stopped tripping and has been fine ever since. I just need to sort the pressure/leak problem and hopefully I'll be good to go!


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## FlatWhitey (Apr 15, 2020)

Hi all,

I've recently disassembled my Classic and am facing the same RCD trip issue. It's been drying out now since Sunday evening...still trips when all wires are connected to the boiler (3 connected it doesn't trip, 4 it does).

Any other things to investigate/check or just patience?


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## newdent (Feb 20, 2021)

FlatWhitey said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I've recently disassembled my Classic and am facing the same RCD trip issue. It's been drying out now since Sunday evening...still trips when all wires are connected to the boiler (3 connected it doesn't trip, 4 it does).
> 
> Any other things to investigate/check or just patience?


 Have you tried to dry out or are you attempting to air dry? (Removed dangerous advice - Mod)


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## FlatWhitey (Apr 15, 2020)

I haven't, I've just been leaving it to air dry disconnected from any leccy.

(Removed dangerous advice - Mod) ... Disconnecting the main plug earth however, meant no RCD trip...that sounds ominous. Does that mean the boiler isn't at issue? That makes little sense to me as when running with 3/4 wires at the top of the boiler connected, it doesn't trip either suggesting the boiler is the issue...!


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## newdent (Feb 20, 2021)

(Dangerous advice removed - Mod) ...Could be that one element is dry, the other isn't.

I know it goes without saying, but be sure to be extremely over the top safe when doing all these tests. So easy to get distracted.


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## FlatWhitey (Apr 15, 2020)

Indeed, electricity is worthy of the utmost respect!

Regarding the four boiler connections, I tried all combinations of connected/disconnected and it was always just whenever four were connected that it would trip. Any 3/4 being connected ran - i.e. wouldn't trip and the power switch light remained on.


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## newdent (Feb 20, 2021)

FlatWhitey said:


> Indeed, electricity is worthy of the utmost respect!
> 
> Regarding the four boiler connections, I tried all combinations of connected/disconnected and it was always just whenever four were connected that it would trip. Any 3/4 being connected ran.


 (Dangerous advice removed - Mod) ... I guess the boiler is still getting earthed some how through the chassis? Just speculation.

Personally, I would do whatever it took to get the thing running for half an hour with all four wires on with a wooden spoon at the ready to move switches and make sure I don't touch any of the metal parts. You'll get some steam coming off whichever element is wet for a while.

If that sounds too risky, then others have put the boiler in the oven on its lowest setting for a while (hours? There's threads on here if you search). Obviously, the boiler has to be split from the group and the steam valve removed.

I tried letting mine air dry for days and I don't think there's any chance of it drying that way.


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## FlatWhitey (Apr 15, 2020)

(Dangerous advice removed - Mod) ...

I think you've solved it with your oven method!

Now to see how things get on when making coffee...

Thank you kindly @newdent


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## newdent (Feb 20, 2021)

Ah nice one, glad you've got it sorted.

I remembered when it happened to me the first time, it was so disheartening after all the work I'd put in to get it up together.

So thankful that someone had put the oven (Mod) drying method up on this forum, so happy to pass the knowledge on. Enjoy the coffee!


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## FlatWhitey (Apr 15, 2020)

Cheers!

Having done the disassembly, descale and seal replacement, the next step is going to be expensive - I want to fit one of Mr Shades' PIDs next! At least next time I know that the boiler being damp is something to avoid before reassembly!

Thanks again


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