# 2015 Gaggia Classic - Switch replacement



## silentbrown (Jun 9, 2021)

The horrible push-switches on this have become sticky and intermittent. Ideally I'd like to replace them with ones from a pre-2015 model. Is this possible?


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Short answer is no!

The switches perform completely different functions which are incompatible with each other.


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## silentbrown (Jun 9, 2021)

ratty said:


> The switches perform completely different functions which are incompatible with each other.


 They're still basically "power", "temperature" and "pump", surely?

I'm looking at replacing the entire switch assembly. Some tweaking of the wiring loom is to be expected.


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## silentbrown (Jun 9, 2021)

silentbrown said:


> They're still basically "power", "temperature" and "pump", surely?


 Ah, understood now. The power button is non-latching on the 2015 model, for the timer.

My problem was that due to stickiness everywhere the power button would stick in when pressed, so appearing to be latching. This turned out not to be the switch itself, but the switch cap fouling in the holder. I've removed all switches (one minor explosion of springs...) and cleaned everything up. It's 90% better and I think some silicone lubricant should sort it properly.

One minor fail - despite marking all connections before removal, I've got a spare earth wire with no idea where it goes!

The earth on the socket goes into the housing by the pump. There's an earth wire from there to the boiler body, by the thermal fuse.

The plate below the pump has two spade terminals with earth wires connected. One goes to the tab on the underneath of the lid, with a small spade. The other wire terminates in a larger 1/4" spade, and I can't find where it belongs


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## silentbrown (Jun 9, 2021)

Silicone lube has indeed improved the switch action, and I think I have the answer about the missing earth. I think both earth wires go to tags under the lid. Pre2015 models have a single wire here.


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Did you find where to get a new switch and replace it?


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

silentbrown said:


> Silicone lube has indeed improved the switch action, and I think I have the answer about the missing earth. I think both earth wires go to tags under the lid. Pre2015 models have a single wire here.


I noticed that double tag when I took the top off mine it seems un necessary I'm contemplating adding a earth tag to the main casing if there isn't one and repositioning one of them


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

silentbrown said:


> Ah, understood now. The power button is non-latching on the 2015 model, for the timer.
> 
> My problem was that due to stickiness everywhere the power button would stick in when pressed, so appearing to be latching. This turned out not to be the switch itself, but the switch cap fouling in the holder. I've removed all switches (one minor explosion of springs...) and cleaned everything up. It's 90% better and I think some silicone lubricant should sort it properly.
> 
> ...


Pity I didn't read that yesterday all 3 appeard to be latching on mine, the brew button wouldn't release and showed signs of arching out, so I swapped it for the steam switch just had 3 delivered that are sold for a delongie but I took the risk on them as they were cheap, they are actually the right part (for brew and steam as they are latching) same product code printed on the body as those in the machine


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Sebast1antombs said:


> Pity I didn't read that yesterday all 3 appeard to be latching on mine, the brew button wouldn't release and showed signs of arching out, so I swapped it for the steam switch just had 3 delivered that are sold for a delongie but I took the risk on them as they were cheap, they are actually the right part (for brew and steam as they are latching) same product code printed on the body as those in the machine
> View attachment 67504
> 
> View attachment 67505




Sebast1antomb

Could you share where to buy them? I am looking for one. My brew button doesn't stay pressed.


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## Bhodgson (11 mo ago)

It’s on the receipt heading, espares.co.uk. Even got the product code.👍


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Thanks. So can you confirm they work? Did you specifically replace the brew button?


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Unfortunately, I see that they deliver only to the UK and Ireland.


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

HG1 said:


> Thanks. So can you confirm they work? Did you specifically replace the brew button?


Yes it works it is the exact same switch same manufacturer all part numbers on the item match, I actually shaped the steam button switch for the brew button switch as a temporary fix and then replaced the steam button switch with the new one when it arrived, they are not the right part for the momentary power switch, but they can be easily modified to work, I have since located a supplier of miniature rocker switches that should plug straight into the panel but they would be recessed and the indicator lamps wouldn't be covered.


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

I wonder if this switch will work.
Both in it will actually work and also if it will fit in size


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

I think you need the miniture version, with a 13mm x19mm base to fit the existing slots, dpst (double pole single throw) I don't think the illuminated switch will work instead of the existing indicator lamps though, the hole in the case is only 62mm wide so won't take 3 standard 22mm switches, I've just ordered 3 plain and 3 illuminated to play with, with additional clip on splash protection covers


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Thanks for your answer. I am not based in the UK so I cannot order from UK websites.
The switch you sent in the picture is 10A. is that enough? (I thought I need 16A).
I found a different one (8A) in a local store. Will it fit?


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

The size of the switch is standard for a miniature switch and the same as the existing push button and should fit the, terminals are the correct size, the spacing of the terminals is different just because the insides of the switches are different so long as you get the 4 terminal version per the diagram not either of the 2 or 3 terminal versions in the picture that should work the the DPST is the critical description. It should act as two separate switches in the same body, there should be no circuit between any of the terminals side to side 13mm, with it either on or off, and only between the pins on the same side 19mm with it switched on. Mine says it is 230v, 50Hz, 1050w, 8x230=1840w, so 8amp should be adequate, my mains lead is only rated 10amp hence I am happy with a 10amp switch, a 16Amp switch just means no change is needed for countries that use half the voltage and so need double the current. If you can find miniature rocker switches rated 10 or 16 amp use them but if your mains voltage is 230v not 120v in my opinion based on basic physics not electrician's training I think 8 amp will be OK. Hope this helps.


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## HG1 (10 mo ago)

Why do I need 4 terminals? I am looking for the brew button. As I understand, for the brew button 2 terminals will work, if I don't miss anything...


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## Sebast1antombs (10 mo ago)

HG1 said:


> Thanks for your answer. I am not based in the UK so I cannot order from UK websites.
> The switch you sent in the picture is 10A. is that enough? (I thought I need 16A).
> I found a different one (8A) in a local store. Will it fit?


This looks to be the same switch from a site you can access I think I think there are listing for higher ampage in tge same size from other makers.


https://il.farnell.com/arcolectric/h8550vbaca/switch-dpst-10a-250vac-black-i/dp/273200?st=dpst%20rocker%20switch












HG1 said:


> Why do I need 4 terminals? I am looking for the brew button. As I understand, for the brew button 2 terminals will work, if I don't miss anything...


All 3 switches in mine have 4 terminals all of which are connected, each button operates 2 switches at the same time, I don't have a wiring diagram but would be reluctant to leave 2 wires hanging unconnected, 3 are linked with a white wire 2 with green 2 with blue non of them appear to duplicate cuircits I'll do a sketch later

Hope this helps the contact bars only connect 1 pair of terminals each dot to square no connection is made between 2 dots or 2 squares. The picture of tge 3 switches are 3 actually push button switches for the 2015 and later machines layer out as you would see the terminals if you released the clip and push the switch cluster out of the machine it would flop for so the bottom of the switches are near the machine and the top nearest you the brew button makes 2 different connections


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

HG1 said:


> Why do I need 4 terminals? I am looking for the brew button. As I understand, for the brew button 2 terminals will work...


If (and only IF) your switch is a SPST (single pole single throw) i.e. 1 wire connects to another wire then 2 terminal is all that is required for the circuit/job (*) being used...BUT...4 is BETTER in as much as that they are "side by side" DPST (double pole single throw) and if wired correctly that switch will allow more current handling (always a good thing)...think of it like a skinny rope crossing a chasm, you can cross it being careful, but if you replace the rope for a plank (thicker/wider than rope) of wood, then crossing becomes somewhat safer.

So if space allows when selecting a switch then try and get the one with more poles as this will allow more current to be handled...an 8 Amp SPST will probably be availabe as a 2 x 8 Amp (16 Amp) DPST option and sometimes they're the same physical size casing/body.

N.B. (*) quoted above...the switch i'm referring to can be used for other purposes; not just your Gaggia...a SPST (8 Amp) switch on let's say a battery charger that is getting hot could be replaced with a DPST (2 x 8 Amp) version and by "doubling up" the poles this would allow for more (16 Amp) current handling of the switch (cooler).


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