# It's probably a Compak k6



## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

This will be with me later this week. A good google and poke around the forums leads me to believe it's a Compak K6 with a rebadge. I know I'll need some new burrs when I can afford them. My question is the hopper replacement. I hear a lot about 47mm tubes doing the job. The question is, which dimension is 47mm? The internal one?










Am I right? Is it a K6?


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Assuming it is a K6, are there any guides on how to open it up and clean it up? The doser shouldn't be too hard, but getting to the burrs and cleaning that out without messing up their positioning does concern me.


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## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

@allikat Tube or pipes are normally quoted outside diameter, i.e. 15mm, 37mm or 2", as that is the one needed for connector fittings to join them.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Awesome, thanks for that.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

The first thing to check when you get it is the motor bearings. In case there are grinds in it that have been there for a long time turn the adjuster in the coarser direction for say 1/2 a turn then power the grinder up and start it. Pretty sure there are some youtube videos on Mazzers with worn bearings to give you an idea what they sound like when worn. If there is a squealing noise they may just need regreasing but probably need replacing.

Just carry on turning the adjuster coarser until it comes out, that gives access to the burrs. To a certain extent the burrs align themselves. You may be able to find posts on here about going further with shimming the burrs etc.

If you google make model spares some sites show parts diagrams - that should help with further dismantling - you will be more or less on your own I suspect with that.

The tricky part of a full clean is under the lower burr carrier. They usually don't come off easily. Pimping Mazzer threads should give you an idea how people remove that and other details. I suspect they could possibly get bent if done carelessly.

John

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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

It's here, and fortunately, the bearings and motor sound fine. The interior looks like it's had the standard coffee shop cleaning routine of "We'll clean it if it breaks".

I'm mid struggle getting the upper burr holder unscrewed from the machine... they should sell coffee oil as threadlocker... seriously...


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

allikat said:


> It's here, and fortunately, the bearings and motor sound fine. The interior looks like it's had the standard coffee shop cleaning routine of "We'll clean it if it breaks".
> 
> I'm mid struggle getting the upper burr holder unscrewed from the machine... they should sell coffee oil as threadlocker... seriously...


 If it's from a cheap coffee shop, it's probably never been adjusted, set up by an engineer years ago and never touched since.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

DavecUK said:


> If it's from a cheap coffee shop, it's probably never been adjusted, set up by an engineer years ago and never touched since.


 More than likely. Given the horror show in the feed path, I'd believe that completely. The sheer amount of ancient grounds stuck together with coffee oil... it looked like there had been plastic melted in there. But the burrs seem in decent condition, and the motor runs smoothly without any odd noises. Which is a lot for 60 quid delivered.

Given it's a 2004 made machine, I'd bet it's been in 2 or 3 failed coffee shops, then left in a cupboard for years. And cleaned on the 7th of Never.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

The upper burr carrier is VERY stiff to rotate. The threads look to be in decent condition with no sign of crossed threads, but it's very hard to turn. Any suggestions?


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## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

Clean them with a stiff brushing and IPA/meths as they may be sticky. Light coating of food safe silicone grease/lube on the threads, I think some people use unscented chapstick or candles as well.

Also you are 100% turning it the right way if it reverse threaded? We've all been there at some point... ?


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

The correct type of greases tend to be fairly expensive. I use molyslip foodslip. It's sometimes discounted. A tin will do rather a lot of grinders - too many really. The usual small tube of silicone grease is no good for this sort of use. It needs to be one that is fortified. They add several things to them.

I tried a stick of unflavoured lip salve. Savers, chemists etc. It works pretty well but generally it's not that easy to make small adjustments on many grinders. They are meant to stay where they are set.  The makers seem to think more about that than how easy they are to set.

Sounds like you have a grinder that has sat around with grinds in it for a very very long time.

John

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## HowardSmith (Jan 21, 2018)

If you want to try somthing that you probably already have.... A tiny amount of cooking oil I have found works well.

Some with probably say it will go rancid and sticky but I have not found this to be the case.

I use some of the very light olive oil, the stuff you really dont want to use for food cuz it's a bit tasteless really.

I clean the threads out on the mazzer with a stiff brush and paper towel once every few weeks, takes about one minute. I then add a few drops of oil to the removable thread, move it around a bit with my finger and then wipe off any excess.

Food safe, cheap and everyone has it, surely better than lipsal.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Thanks. A wipe down with alcohol, and a dab of olive oil has made it much better.

Oh, and definitely a K6 rebadge. The Compak burrs were a give away.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Progress update: It's not a money pit!

Scrubbed (almost) everything, greased it to heck and back, fitted new burrs. And after some muppetry, I have some ground coffee! While the first cup came out quick, it tasted nice as an americano. I'm off to work tonight, but I look forwards to dialing in some lidl Columbian beans. Yeah, it's not amazing, but I'm broke, hence the teenage kit.


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