# Awkward drilling...



## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

Not sure where to put this.

I will want to mod my classic soon with the Silvia V3 wand, which will entail drilling the chassis interior main bulkhead (which the group bolts to) close to the side walls. I'm anticipating either not being able to get my cordless drill in the chassis due to the hole location depth or not being able to get close enough to the walls.

There are 2 possible solutions.....extend the drill length somehow or drill from the other side (drip tray side) using a 90 deg chuck (since there deffo isn't room to fit the drill that side).

So is there a workable drill chuck extension solution that you guys have experience of? I've seen these extension quick change items that have a 1/4 or 3/8 drive, which I'm guessing you could fit a separate chuck/arbor to, but they more seem aimed at screwdriver or socket bits than drilling....

Right angle drive chucks are readily available, but I have little experience with then let alone using them to drill the main chassis bulkhead.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Is this to enlarge the existing hole to accept the larger fitting or is it to have the hole in a different position ?

How large a hole are you wanting to drill ?


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## Jollybean (May 19, 2013)

I didn't need to drill mine when I put a v3 steam wand on. From memory the larger connector was in the casing and I could feed the wand down from the top.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

El carajillo said:


> Is this to enlarge the existing hole to accept the larger fitting or is it to have the hole in a different position ?
> 
> How large a hole are you wanting to drill ?


It's to fit a separate bracket which requires 2x4mm holes near the main wand hole. I don't think I'll need to enlarge the existing wand hole though.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

might do it - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-10mm-Extra-Long-200mm-HSS-Twist-Drill-Straigth-Shank-Auger-Drilling-Bit-Tool/162036000228?hash=item25ba1925e4%3Am%3AmVG9L19ly2Vcd1i4oV8ed8g&var=461004811875


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Go for a long drill - you might never again need it, as you would an angled drill chuck. Only drills are cheaper and easier to store away


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

200mm wow.......could try it i suppose. Would be worried about the tip wobbling off centre though.....chassis is stainless too



jimbojohn55 said:


> might do it - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-10mm-Extra-Long-200mm-HSS-Twist-Drill-Straigth-Shank-Auger-Drilling-Bit-Tool/162036000228?hash=item25ba1925e4%3Am%3AmVG9L19ly2Vcd1i4oV8ed8g&var=461004811875


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jj-x-ray said:


> 200mm wow.......could try it i suppose. Would be worried about the tip wobbling off centre though.....chassis is stainless too


Awkward drilling that is









Jokes aside, you gonna be fine with that. Own a couple of those as well. Just insert straight into chuck and adjust if tilted


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

jj-x-ray said:


> Not sure where to put this.
> 
> I will want to mod my classic soon with the Silvia V3 wand, which will entail drilling the chassis interior main bulkhead (which the group bolts to) close to the side walls. I'm anticipating either not being able to get my cordless drill in the chassis due to the hole location depth or not being able to get close enough to the walls.
> 
> ...


I'm fortunate to have both an attachment bought some time ago from LIDL, at the price chucked in my cupboard somewhere accepting it's probably a 'Once only bit of kit'.

Not sure of the material you are drilling ?, put a couple of bits of Sellotape at the point where you intend to drill and this will help prevent the drill bit from drifting off, if it's stainless you are drilling then you will find you'll need a dedicated drill bit.

Jon.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

I used cobalt bits to fit my pressure guage...made light work of the stainless. Im concerned using hss would take a lot longer.

I may have to try a couple of options...more expensive, but saves time if one fails



xpresso said:


> I'm fortunate to have both an attachment bought some time ago from LIDL, at the price chucked in my cupboard somewhere accepting it's probably a 'Once only bit of kit'.
> 
> Not sure of the material you are drilling ?, put a couple of bits of Sellotape at the point where you intend to drill and this will help prevent the drill bit from drifting off, if it's stainless you are drilling then you will find you'll need a dedicated drill bit.
> 
> Jon.


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

jj-x-ray said:


> I used cobalt bits to fit my pressure guage...made light work of the stainless. Im concerned using hss would take a lot longer.
> 
> I may have to try a couple of options...more expensive, but saves time if one fails


Not convinced HSS will look at it, maybe start with the smallest bit you have as a pilot hole, again using bits of Sellotape to assist in keeping the bit located.

Found the angle attachment, they are dirt cheap and I see them sold for under a tenner, free postage..........

  

Jon.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

The main thing with stainless especially if it's not free cutting is to keep the speed down and keep the drill cutting. Some grades harden if that isn't done and will wreck even decent hss drills pretty quickly.

Best type of drill for not wondering around is a split point with a ground tip. I'd stay away from titanium coated - it blunts them and just forged jobber drills aren't that sharp anyway. Best left for use on wood but the effect can even be noticeable on that. Ground tip is always a good idea.

I did try a cheaper right angle attachment once - junk and didn't help at all really.

Do you really need that or a long drill? I would dismantle to avoid it or if I needed to spot through something that needs to be fitted make a template off the part to be fitted and drill from the other side.

Too enlarge a hole I'd be inclined to use a decent cone drill. The fluted ones are best but the other type are ok too.

For my sins the new kitchen needs a new suspended ceiling. Decided to use metal furlings as timber prices were stupid and often warped. That meant drilling rather a lot of holes in steel so bought 2 Milwaukee Thunderweb drills expecting to wear one out. Only used one and it's still fine - impressed so bought a set. They do start rather well. The split point type are double ground to reduce the web thickness so look entirely different. Toolstation sell cobalt types as well - like most things there are lots of types of hss - cobalt just means some has been added to it.

You probably don't have a marine grade stainless but remember to keep the drill cutting just in case - it's the rubbing that does the damage.

John

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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

My issue as I've mentioned is access. I'm assuming a fully stripped chassis, but due to how deep the classic interior is, it could make drilling problematic without a long drill bit or extension bit. Drilling from the other side is only possible with a right angled drive.

It is a non mag stainless so likely a 304/316 grade...therefore as marine friendly as you're going to get. Cobalt bits and other hardened or ground specialist hss bits are great, but they don't solve my access issue as they rarely come in extra long sizes.



ajohn said:


> The main thing with stainless especially if it's not free cutting is to keep the speed down and keep the drill cutting. Some grades harden if that isn't done and will wreck even decent hss drills pretty quickly.
> 
> Best type of drill for not wondering around is a split point with a ground tip. I'd stay away from titanium coated - it blunts them and just forged jobber drills aren't that sharp anyway. Best left for use on wood but the effect can even be noticeable on that. Ground tip is always a good idea.
> 
> ...


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jj-x-ray said:


> My issue as I've mentioned is access. I'm assuming a fully stripped chassis, but due to how deep the classic interior is, it could make drilling problematic without a long drill bit or extension bit. Drilling from the other side is only possible with a right angled drive.
> 
> It is a non mag stainless so likely a 304/316 grade...therefore as marine friendly as you're going to get. Cobalt bits and other hardened or ground specialist hss bits are great, but they don't solve my access issue as they rarely come in extra long sizes.


Epoxy maybe? It's not as if it needs to be too structural.


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

Pity you were not closer I'd have done it for you and saved everyone all this typing RSI.

Jon.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

xpresso said:


> Pity you were not closer I'd have done it for you and saved everyone all this typing RSI.
> 
> Jon.










What with ? I know what I would do but currently can't do it. Piece of bar and make an extension drill with something suitable loctited in the end. Probably hole in both ends and a spare drill just in case but I would have thought a 2 speed electric drill on slow would be ok at this size.

The right angle adapter I tried was very similar to the one posted. Poor chuck and difficult to use in practice. There are others about.

A 1/4 hex drive drill chuck and an extension for same *might* be an answer but I'd expect some wobble - a centre punch (automatic) might help with that even with a decent drill in it. There are some smaller key type hex drive chucks on amazon. They look like typical chinese cheapo's but those are usually ok if not pushed too hard. Personally I wouldn't be so sure of keyless.

Last time I had this problem I wondered why some one didn't make a length of say 1/2" bar with a chuck screw thread etc on the end to take a small standard chuck.

John

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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

If you get totally stuck, I have a hand drill chuck on a short length of 1/2" bar. If this will fit your drill I will post it to you.

The O/A length is 130 mm , this should be sufficient for what you want to do.

If required P M me.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

Cheers will bear that in mind.



El carajillo said:


> If you get totally stuck, I have a hand drill chuck on a short length of 1/2" bar. If this will fit your drill I will post it to you.
> 
> The O/A length is 130 mm , this should be sufficient for what you want to do.
> 
> If required P M me.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I need of a life I watch wheeler dealers when I am eating lunch. Comparing notes I have worked on some of the cars they restore when they weren't so old. DIY to keep costs down.

He needed to drill some holes and appeared to use one of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porta-trade-quality-right-angle-drill-attachment-for-intermittent-use/261898384857?hash=item3cfa5c35d9:g:68IAAOSwpDdVX8ys

Probably 1/4 dia clearance holes in a bulkhead which may be fibre glass. Might be worth a try. Remove the blue trim and the same thing seems to be available at a much lower price. I'd use Amazon in case it's junk also get the version that use a chuck key. I haven't read the reviews but they look to sell the same item at several prices.

He was doing up a TVR - never managed to get my hands on one of those.

John

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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

Bit expensive for a one off though.

AND

They make it look so easy don't they, I'd like to see the intervals we are not privvy to







.

Jon.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

It's not that bad on older cars. Talking silly cars I managed 2 Lotus ( L oads Of Trouble Usually Serious - that can be true ) , E - Type, Stag and a 911 . Several UK sports cars too. Engine out at some point on most of them. Stick welder needed at times. My last fast car fling was a WRX. That's likely to need a garage or buying some some rather expensive diagnostic gear just like others now. Currently I creep around in a Forester. Well sort of creep.

One part I find interesting about the program is the typical faults mentioned on various types - some of them definitely aren't the same as the ones I have heard about. They also seem to mostly obtain cars where the carburettors are still in tune - that is truly amazing. There engines don't usually wear out either. They do cover suspension and steering stuff - easy to do and doesn't need many tools - often helps if lying on a cold concrete floor while working appeals as well.

Expensive - I think about £12 on amazon less the blue bling.







If I wanted some holes that I couldn't do any other way I'd give one a try.

John

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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

SU Carbs were so easy to set up................

Jon.


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## jj-x-ray (Dec 31, 2017)

ha remember fiddling with them on my old mini (original one not german luxobarge)



xpresso said:


> SU Carbs were so easy to set up................
> 
> Jon.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

xpresso said:


> SU Carbs were so easy to set up................
> 
> Jon.


Providing you centred the jet and the needle did not rub the side:whistle: Do you want a MINI engine lifting jig ?


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

El carajillo said:


> Providing you centred the jet and the needle did not rub the side:whistle: Do you want a MINI engine lifting jig ?


Is it 'Dinky' or 'Matchbox'







,

Jon.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

xpresso said:


> Is it 'Dinky' or 'Matchbox'
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

SU and Stromberg/Zenith - in contrast to Pierburgs they were pretty much the same and fun to work on... except when you have two of them and need to sync. That's at least where I go 200% muppet and throw in the towel.

Happened to me, thought it'd be wise to take it to a specialist. Dude told me on the phone last week they cracked one cap upon refitting 

It's a Stromberg 175 CD without external CO adjustment screw, if you happen to have spares... PM me! thx!


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

And not forgetting 'Solex' - I had a MK2 Ford Zodiac 2553cc in line six cylinder with a tuning kit on that included three carbs.

Jon.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

xpresso said:


> And not forgetting 'Solex' - I had a MK2 Ford Zodiac 2553cc in line six cylinder with a tuning kit on that included three carbs.
> 
> Jon.


what a car!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

xpresso said:


> And not forgetting 'Solex' - I had a MK2 Ford Zodiac 2553cc in line six cylinder with a tuning kit on that included three carbs.
> 
> Jon.


AK = Dagenham Dustbin:exit:


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

Hasi said:


> what a car!


It sure was, I was an apprentice mechanic at the village garage that supplied it brand new with all conceivable extras from two tone paintwork and upholstery to white wall tyres and over drive and from memory £1200.

Then I bought it when he traded it in.

Jon.


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Hahaha! I thought that was a Vauxhall Chevette (with tunnel headlamps, natch) AKA Vauxhall Shove-it, and would probably be called Chavette these days.

Our neighbours used to have a Zephyr back in the day. I grew up thinking Zephyr meant cow fart (gentle warm breeze drifting across the fields). Think my dad must've had a different dictionary to me.



El carajillo said:


> AK = Dagenham Dustbin:exit:


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

Again from memory, Vauxhall's had the ultimate bad rep for steel worm, the Victor was a gamble that you could open the doors after going over a hump back bridge to fast .... fast ?????. Doubt they would survive today's pot holes.

Original post ..... just found my SS drills and they are 'Presto HI-Nox', they are dedicated ss drills.

Jon.


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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

Check out the detail and appreciate these specific SS drill bits, I've used them after HSS failed to even make an impact, free hand, the blurb makes special note of this.

https://www.presto-tools.co.uk/ProductGrp/hi-nox-jobber-length-drills--din-338_1

Jon.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

If I want anything unusual I often buy from here

https://www.drill-service.co.uk/products/drills/quick-spiral-drill/dcow-hsco-drill-worm-pattern/

If 4mm screws remember you will need a larger drill. Usually 4.5mm unless very little clearance is needed for some reason.

I've managed 8mm clearance holes through 10mm of the stuff with ordinary jobber drills from dormer. 4 holes 2 new drills because if the drill rubs and it hardens things get a lot more difficult. The best way to avoid that is to make sure that the drill does keep cutting.

John

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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

I think the trick is as above slow and steady if its not cutting its blunting - SS is a lot harder as it has chromium and often nickel etc in it so the drill will heat up real quick and the edge blunt - ive cut holes using oil but it quickly smokes, try using water it wont do the drill bit any harm and its better at keeping the cutting edge cool.

Specialist drill bits and cobalt drills work better as they keep their edge longer but you can use HSS drills with a bit of water, also don't be tempted to speed up if its cutting slowly your bit will go bunt. - good luck


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I'd have thought that the usual electric hand drill on it's slower speed would ok at this size and if I bought drills to do the job I would definitely be looking for ones with a ground tip. In fact I would probably use the toolstation ones I mentioned. Ground tip has a nice sharp edge. That's thin and doesn't have much heat absorbing capability. That's the idea of adding cobalt to HSS - it should still cut at red heat. The vast bulk of a cutting tool by a huge margin usually doesn't get any where near that hot.

Dormer jobber drills are pretty sharp as they come but more expensive than many others. Many of that type aren't that sharp.

One problem with drills from places like drill services is that they may be stiffer than a typical jobbers drill and intended for use in a drilling machine so they can be twisted and snapped in a hand drill.

John

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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

In to-days market place, talking tools, it is very difficult to purchase good quality tools and bits and rely on them to be of good quality without going for something with the manufacturers name on it.

One instance when I supplied tools and machinery, a popular metal cutting band saw that was made in Tiawan and sold by numerous companies in the UK at varying prices, would come in red sold by one company, green for another and so on, another trick was they were imported with no motors, the importer then fitted a Crompton motor and stuck a Union Jack flag on the 'Machine' giving the impression the machine was possibly UK manufactured.

TCT router bits, many of the originally known suppliers of quality bits now sell lower quality bits, some would have the waste side of the bit coloured either red or blue and boxed up in their own particular case.

Its an indictment of being competitive, you only need to see the returns coming out of the likes of Screwfix, Machine Mart and many other competitive tool companies.

The same applies with drill bits, at least with Dormer and Presto brand you are still currently OK, in many occasions the cheaper option once the job is done that's fine, but to expect it last forever .. no.

Years ago many people condemned B&D tools, they made a vast drill range, so often people bought down to a price instead of a tool for the job and then rubbished the tool when it failed, there was nothing to touch the 'Old' B&D Industrial range, the well engineered guts were second to none.

Jon.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

xpresso said:


> In to-days market place, talking tools, it is very difficult to purchase good quality tools and bits and rely on them to be of good quality without going for something with the manufacturers name on it.
> 
> One instance when I supplied tools and machinery, a popular metal cutting band saw that was made in Tiawan and sold by numerous companies in the UK at varying prices, would come in red sold by one company, green for another and so on, another trick was they were imported with no motors, the importer then fitted a Crompton motor and stuck a Union Jack flag on the 'Machine' giving the impression the machine was possibly UK manufactured.
> 
> ...


I have one of the old industrial range with an 'original' KEYLESS CHUCK. with a rating plate AC / DC. runs super smooth and quiet.(COLLECTABLE)

I also have a B&D industrial pistol drill still running smooth/ quiet.

You are quite correct about the quality of many tools being very poor and unfit for purpose.

Also that many people buy the wrong tool for the job , then blame the tool.


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I can never make my mind up about B&D as a company. There answer once they started selling rubbish was to buy up other companies. Elu and McCullock for instance and later introduce the DeWalt range. Later Dewalt start introducing various items at lower price as everybody knows that they are good tools so DIY'ers buy them - selling on the name rather than quality really. Even so they may be the best bet currently when power tools are being bought. Bosch used to be a good bet for even extreme DIY'ers but again so many variants there is no way of knowing if the stuff is up to their earlier quality. Even Makita are getting a bad reputation in one area - drills. Ryobi seemed to have stopped making trade rated items years ago.








I had some gas fitters in recently. One of them pointed out something about the drill he was using - looked remarkably similar to others but took a different battery. I suspect he is correct on many of them that are on the market.

My horizontal metal cutting bandsaw was bought years ago and made in China. It's a little noisy, doesn't really cut that square but is a lot more convenient than a hacksaw. As it's old it does have a decently rated motor fitted to it. Taiwan has moved up market - I couldn't afford or justify buying one made there now. They also make the parts for some real precision industrial lathes that are then just assembled in the UK.

Screwfix can be ideal for people like me at times. I might need some power tool to do some job. It might hardly ever be used again so their cheap range is ideal - if it fails I just have to go along and get another. I would also say that this range is better than this sort of thing used to be. I recollect buy an over priced B&D drill assuming it was the best and then drilled one hole through a cavity wall - it never completed it. The business end more or less fell apart.

John

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## xpresso (Jan 16, 2018)

El carajillo said:


> I have one of the old industrial range with an 'original' KEYLESS CHUCK. with a rating plate AC / DC. runs super smooth and quiet.(COLLECTABLE)
> 
> I also have a B&D industrial pistol drill still running smooth/ quiet.
> 
> ...


That is the crux of it, I still have a couple of those solid metal (No plastic) keyless chucks, I'll also wager that the tool spec plate is rivetted on!!!.



ajohn said:


> I can never make my mind up about B&D as a company. There answer once they started selling rubbish was to buy up other companies. Elu and McCullock for instance and later introduce the DeWalt range. Later Dewalt start introducing various items at lower price as everybody knows that they are good tools so DIY'ers buy them - selling on the name rather than quality really. Even so they may be the best bet currently when power tools are being bought. Bosch used to be a good bet for even extreme DIY'ers but again so many variants there is no way of knowing if the stuff is up to their earlier quality. Even Makita are getting a bad reputation in one area - drills. Ryobi seemed to have stopped making trade rated items years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


B&D as I said were well engineered 'Industrial' tools, they took over De-Walt a great many years ago followed by Elu who only manufactured Professional tools after which B&D Industrial was phased out.

You then ended up with a series of rebadging between Elu & De-Walt and different colours aimed at the DIY enthusiast, such as the transportable radial arm saws, these were also available as fixed high end 3ph machines, fixed, toothed metal cutting machines.

Possibly I may still have the MicroFiche plates for many of those tools.

Jon.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

I solely buy Bosch Professional for two reasons:

One, they're meant for and widely used by... guess who... professionals. I've many friends in wood working and construction industries. Some use Makita (and swear a lot), while the others run on blue Bosch happily ever after.

Two, their rechargeable concept is very appealing. They waited and observed the market carefully for quite some time before introducing their cordless range. As a result you get ultimate forward/backward compatibility since they put power output management intelligence into their batteries. In other words: New batteries work on old tools and they run longer, or make a new tool more powerful. Also, you may use old batteries on new tools at max output.

To my knowledge something no other brand can offer.

Just my 2 small coins (of whatever currency you fancy), not affiliated with se Germans in any sense.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

My preffered makes were blue Bosch or Hitachi,


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Another here for Bosch professional range (Blue) - ive use Makita and Dewalt and B and D but Bosch are almost indestructible - they now have brushless motors as well.

Their is a good video somewhere about trying to damage them by dropping them off a roof and driving over them but they were fine - their impact drills have three levels of torque as well so yo can do fine stuff or heavy.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Another here for Bosch professional range (Blue) - ive use Makita and Dewalt and B and D but Bosch are almost indestructible - they now have brushless motors as well.
> 
> Their is a good video somewhere about trying to damage them by dropping them off a roof and driving over them but they were fine - their impact drills have three levels of torque as well so yo can do fine stuff or heavy.


Hitachi are indestructable as long as they do not fall out of their holder/ holster at roof level and land on concrete, cracked between handle and body

but still worked fine. (but it did pinch your palm if you were not careful )


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

El carajillo said:


> Hitachi are indestructable as long as they do not fall out of their holder/ holster at roof level and land on concrete, cracked between handle and body
> 
> but still worked fine. (but it did pinch your palm if you were not careful )


why does this remind me of Top Gear's Toyota Hilux episode...


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I usually buy a combi drill for obvious reasons - I have a hefty mains powered metabo sds drill but it would be a bit silly to use that for small holes.. Bought the Bosch from screwfix and now appears to be the only one they do. I'm on my second one via the warrantee. The clutch packed up on the first one. Had a dodgy moment on the 2nd one but it fixed itself. I noticed that drills didn't run as true as I would expect but that seems to have improved with use. So while I have generally bought Bosch drills for battery power I wonder now. They certainly aren't buy once items.







My mains powered Elu drill branded B&D probably is - they always get the companies they buy up to carry on making what ever for a while. The Metabo was bought of some one that decided to severely discount them for a while. It has done some hefty work for significant times now and again. As it has a clutch it can also be used with diamond core drills.

I think Makita are still the best in some area - circular saw, routers and maybe small angle grinders but I bought that a long time ago - new attachments still fit it. All mains powered. I also have a small Elu router, the one Trend sell now along with it's rather small table.







And a very compact one by B&D that is probably very old = handy for free hand cutting hinge recesses - around £10 from a boot sale.

I talked to the screwfix lady about pro drills - seems to be a problem. Bosch? Well they are all professional. She didn't think so implying any of them and other makes. These are the people who see the returns.

https://shop.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/cordless-combis--101307

I do like the idea they have about batteries but in my case mains powered makes a lot more sense for a number of things.

John

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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

It certainly depends on application, need for mobility and operation in remote areas (or even spots around the property if you so will...).

I figured I need most of my tools to be mobile - and all those blue guys survived me building a whole house. Except the sledge of my circular hand saw that someone tripped over and bent. But it was a quick fix...

One thing about the returns lady: people working with problems are likely to just see problems ...because their view is somewhat clouded.

My mother used to be an occupational therapist and all she reported was how dangerous this sport, that activity and that profession was. Because she only dealt with respective injuries. If you get to know ten carpenters and all of them are missing fingers, then your conclusion is very likely that your son maybe should pursue a different career... you know what I mean?


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

I think cordless drills are getting more difficult. Often increase in price is mostly larger or more batteries. I'll probably stick with Bosch combi drills as I can buy bare bodies. Several makes now offer them and in my view it's pretty obvious why. I don't find the need for a power lead a problem on many things. I've also had a couple of trades in the house recently and if anything needs doing that wants real power they generally ask to plug their extension lead in.








My latest problem was power tile cutters - don't ask me. All because I needed to cut some rather accurate bevel edges.

John

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