# Mazzer Major Auberins Timer Project



## The Systemic Kid

Picked up a Mazzer Major Automatic a few weeks ago and decided to fit a timer relay. Auberins do two - one which fits inside the grinder and the other which is the same timer unit but fitted in a stand alone box which is much easier to fit as it doesn't require any drilling or major wiring. Price for the stand alone unit are just over £100 and £50 for the built in unit.

First job was to cut a square out of the sides of the Major. Used a Dremel fitted with fibre glass cutting disc. Did the job surprisingly easily - biggest worry was the drill's torque causing the disc to slip and damage the surrounding surface. Finished cutting out the corner edges with a hand held jig saw blade. Prior to cutting the hole out, packed the inside of the grinder with paper and cling film to prevent shards getting into the motor.









Next job was to drill three holes for the momentary switches - two timed and one for manual. The holes are 16mm so I discounted using a straight drill as, again, I was worried the drill bit might slip and cause damage to the surrounding area. Used a 16mm hole saw like this.









The hole saw attaches to an arbor which hold a pilot drill bit. This keeps the hole saw from slipping or wandering whilst drilling out the hole. End result.









Really pleased with the result. Next step was wiring the timer and switches - more of that later. Would like to say thanks to Callum and Coffeechap for their patience and guidance on the correct way to wire up - suffice to say the Auberins wiring instructions aren't exactly detailed.


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## shrink

nice, looking forward to seeing how this goes. I'd love a timer on my SJ


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## The Systemic Kid

Inside the Major, there's enough free space to site the timer unit which is pretty big, depth-wise - will upload some pics tomorrow showing how deep it is. Had to move the capacitor though.


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## Dylan

I used a 16mm regular drill for my SJ, I pre-drilled the centre of the hole with a much smaller dremel bit beforehand to prevent any slipping. No major difference in the outcome


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## jeebsy

Love seeing these sort of projects - keep the updates coming


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## Xpenno

Looking very neat so far Patrick, looking forward to see how this progresses.


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## CallumT

Should have used a tapered shanked 16mm steel bit would have given a cleaner cut, buttons will cover it all though.

Looking great Patrick!


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## The Systemic Kid

CallumT said:


> Should have used a tapered shanked 16mm steel bit would have given a cleaner cut, buttons will cover it all though.
> 
> Looking great Patrick!


Love it when real engineers start talking shop


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## CallumT

You fully sorted all the wiring and found the notorious switching circuit? I forget every time.

Should probably write it down...


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## The Systemic Kid

Finally did - with a little guidance from you and Coffeechap and a multi-meter to be absolutely sure.


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## Thecatlinux

Saw these timers at the Titan event , really nice mod on the mazzer's , the robur which Callum was using to make every one and his dog a drink was flawless and adjustment as he showed took very little effort .

hoping to do this for myself one day . Just waiting for the right grinder to come along .


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## The Systemic Kid

Managed to wire up in between baking bread. The Auberins wiring instructions are confusing which had me scratching my head. The seem to suggest there are two wires from the Major's switching circuits going into the relay when, in fact, there is one. This diagram shows what Auberins suggest and what you actually need to do.









Once this is figured out, it's straightforward. Relay intrudes into the grinder's body by 80mm - not a problem for the Major but could be for smaller grinders. Had to relocate the capacitor to the other side of the base plate to enable the relay to be sited where I wanted it. Power to the relay comes from the Major's lamp circuit and is wired to 9 and 10 on the relay's terminals. Power is bridged from terminal 9 to 8 with power output to the Major's motor coming from terminal 7.









Finally, here's a picture of the relay and switches fitted and wired.


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## The Systemic Kid

Seems to work


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## Daren

Impressive work. Show us the finished article!!!! This is crying out for a video demonstration


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## The Systemic Kid

Nah Next mod in the pipeline is to turn it into a full Major doserless electronic.


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## Daren

As if by magic - a video! Great work P


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## Zakalwe

A very neat mod! Tidy wiring!

I personally steer clear of anything that involves electrickery....usually I manage to let the magic smoke out.....


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## shrink

loud little bugger tho innit


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## Thecatlinux

Do the push buttons come with the timer module ?


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## Dylan

The Systemic Kid said:


> Nah Next mod in the pipeline is to turn it into a full Major doserless electronic.


Did you see the one that dsc sold? I desperately want access to his engineering know-how, being limited to a hugely overpriced mazzer funnel or a fudge funnel is mighty frustrating. His machined aluminium parts looked sexy as hell.


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## XanaX

What a great job! Exactly what I want to achieve ! is it possible to have more photos or connections diagram ? Congratulations again !


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## mexier

Really great job and the final result is superb. Congratulation also for your manuality!

Can I second other request to provide details for who would like to try any similar? Maybe it could become a sticky for mazzer timer mod


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## The Systemic Kid

shrink said:


> loud little bugger tho innit


Sorry, couldn't hear you over the grinder


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## The Systemic Kid

mexier said:


> Really great job and the final result is superb. Congratulation also for your manuality!
> 
> Can I second other request to provide details for who would like to try any similar? Maybe it could become a sticky for mazzer timer mod


Cheers, Mexier - will speak to Glenn about creating a sub forum for modification projects. When I've got time - I'm gutting my son's new flat - will try and put together a video clip.


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## JohnPrime

Nice mod indeed. I particularly like the posh buttons.

Did you have to import the timer (couldn't find it on a quick google)?


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## jeebsy

http://www.auberins.com/


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## mexier

The Systemic Kid said:


> Cheers, Mexier - will speak to Glenn about creating a sub forum for modification projects. When I've got time - I'm gutting my son's new flat - will try and put together a video clip.


Many many thanks! I suppose there will be so many followers on this project.

Personally can't wait to see what I should do to modify my mazzer like yours


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## JohnPrime

jeebsy said:


> http://www.auberins.com/


Thanks. It appears to be a direct import, then.


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## jeebsy

What's an indirect import? Buying from a uk seller?


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## JohnPrime

jeebsy said:


> What's an indirect import? Buying from a uk seller?


Yes, (so that duty, tax and Parcelfarce's 'handling fee' is already paid by the seller) or via some intermediary -eg ebay- when it may not be; it's something of a lottery, in my limited experience.

Either way OP's done a superb job. Seems well worth any hassle.


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## The Systemic Kid

Thecatlinux said:


> Do the push buttons come with the timer module ?


No, you buy them in the Auberins 'accessories' section - three momentary switches plus the timer cost £52.00 delivered. You can buy fancy illuminated versions of the momentary switches - in different colours too. Was tempted but decided it was a bit too bling.


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## The Systemic Kid

JohnPrime said:


> Yes, (so that duty, tax and Parcelfarce's 'handling fee' is already paid by the seller) or via some intermediary -eg ebay- when it may not be; it's something of a lottery, in my limited experience.
> 
> Either way OP's done a superb job. Seems well worth any hassle.


If it comes via US postal service, very good chance you won't get hit for import duty. Have bought several bits and pieces from the States this way and haven't been hit with import duty...so far.


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## Neill

The Systemic Kid said:


> If it comes via US postal service, very good chance you won't get hit for import duty. Have bought several bits and pieces from the States this way and haven't been hit with import duty...so far.


I didn't get hit when I ordered a PID kit. Might have had something to do with the declared value.


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## JohnPrime

I think so, Neill. I got hammered with a big bill and a long delay for some machine parts a couple of years ago, but that was at a value of about £250; a lot of other stuff, of smaller value --> no duty, no VAT, no handling charge, despite being above the stated threshold.

I do like those switches.


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## The Systemic Kid

Switches have a really nice reassuring feel.


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## EricC

Beautiful piece of work Patrick. Nice one.


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## jeebsy

Could these bits fall under the same category as scales which are exempt from duty?


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## TheEspressoNistic

Nice bling there..

I think you are the only one with a Mazzer Major that actually uses timed dosing...

Kudos... brilliant diy skills


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## dwalsh1

TheEspressoNistic said:


> Nice bling there..
> 
> I think you are the only one with a Mazzer Major that actually uses timed dosing...
> 
> Kudos... brilliant diy skills


I don't think so


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## TheEspressoNistic

dwalsh1 said:


> I don't think so


Could be wrong...

I dont know about it that much.....


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## coffeechap

A few if us have been doing the auber timer mods to mazzers for a while.

Here is a custom metallic grey royal


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## TheEspressoNistic

Thanks for the enlightenment coffeechap...

Nice info to know...


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## coffeechap

Have added some photos


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## TheEspressoNistic

Nice photgraphs...

Metallic grey happens to be a nice colour...


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## dwalsh1

coffeechap said:


> A few if us have been doing the auber timer mods to mazzers for a while.
> 
> And some of us haven't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plug and play option.


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## Rdl81

So this mod let's you run a single shot from the hoppy is that correct? But it still goes into the doser? What would be advantage of doing this over just buying a mazzer that's one demand. Sorry for strange q just would like to know


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## jeebsy

Cheaper, doser is great for distribution


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## Rdl81

jeebsy said:


> Cheaper, doser is great for distribution


Why do you think that is?


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## jeebsy

Why is the doser good for distribution?


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## Rdl81

jeebsy said:


> Why is the doser good for distribution?


Yes just curious that's all as it's just pushing it into a hole


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## coffeechap

The doser completely declumps and removes static


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## jeebsy

As the vanes spin round they break up any clumps, so (as long as you have something fitted to counter the left throw of the Mazzers) you get a very nicely distributed mound of coffee.


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## Rdl81

Thanks I am using a plastic pipe at the moment I was just curious on why it worked so well given that I guess majority of propel on here are single dosing was wondering why people are using the doser....thanks for the explanations


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## frederickaj

Seems there was an " error in translation " I want to know if there is a grinder where the doser mechanism can be removed and an on demand chute fitted ! A photo of the mod would really help .


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## The Systemic Kid

Doser can be removed but the only place that sells doserless Mazzer funnels is in the States and they cost about £200 all in with extra bits and pieces needed to complete the job. Cheaper alternative is to buy a chocolatier funnel for around £25 on EBay - needs customising. Still need a backing plate to cover hole left by removing doser.


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## Dylan

Have a look here for the Funnel method


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## jeebsy

The Systemic Kid said:


> Doser can be removed but the only place that sells doserless Mazzer funnels is in the States and they cost about £200 all in with extra bits and pieces needed to complete the job.


You can get them cheaper here http://www.lfspareparts724.co.uk/en/filialeinglese/home


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## MrShades

Except they don't sell to the general public...


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## jeebsy

I used my limited company to set mine account up with them but a couple of white lies and anyone could get an account.


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## Dylan

Any idea what the funnels cost from them Jeebsy?

Edit: in every parts diagram they have, they do not list the funnel or backing plate. It is there and labelled in the image but the corresponding number is never there in the list below.


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## jeebsy

Yep (well for the Royal anyway)


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## Dylan

Did you see the edit in my post? I couldn't find the corresponding part...

Are you being deliberately coy as to how much it cost?


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## jeebsy

I've sent you a message. They are special order parts which are poa only


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## Rdl81

jeebsy said:


> I've sent you a message. They are special order parts which are poa only


I might be interested as well


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## Thecatlinux

The Systemic Kid said:


> Doser can be removed but the only place that sells doserless Mazzer funnels is in the States and they cost about £200 all in with extra bits and pieces needed to complete the job. Cheaper alternative is to buy a chocolatier funnel for around £25 on EBay - needs customising. Still need a backing plate to cover hole left by removing doser.[/quote
> 
> are you aiming to go doserless with this ? Can't wait to see this up and running ,


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## The Systemic Kid

Thecatlinux said:


> are you aiming to go doserless with this ? Can't wait to see this up and running ,


Guess so - after I finish sorting my son's flat - where it's going. Will post some pics when completed.


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## urbanbumpkin

Hi Patrick

From what you've said, the kit list looks like this:-

Auber JSL-72

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=297

Metal Push Button Switch, NO, Momentary, 16mm (I'm guessing the NO bit is important)

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=329

I have seen some similar buttons on Ebay (cheers CoffeeChap) for about £1.10 from Hong Kong


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## jeebsy

NO means normally open, I learned this morning. http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/30952/can-you-clarify-what-an-1no1nc-switch-is

Want to get rid of the big clunker on the EK.


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## Dylan

Everything in your post is correct bumpkin, the other acronym to look out for when ordering cheaper ebay switches is SPST or single pole single throw, although I believe this should be obvious as it will have only two terminals.


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## Spazbarista

My timer arrived this morning. No customs tax. very helpful customs label


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## urbanbumpkin

Dylan said:


> Everything in your post is correct bumpkin, the other acronym to look out for when ordering cheaper ebay switches is SPST or single pole single throw, although I believe this should be obvious as it will have only two terminals.


Thanks Dylan

Nothing Obvious to an electrical numpty.


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## Spazbarista

Right I've drilled the holes and now for the wiring but I am utterly confused. I don't understand the instructions at all.


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## coffeechap

If you have removed the wires for the flap (auto) follow Patrick's intructions


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## Spazbarista

I removed both doser switches and just unplugged it from the connector that sits by the doser aperture. Then I bridged the upper doser switch on the chocolate bar.

Not a clue what to do now. Dont know where the wires from the chocolate bar plug into the timer. Patrick says one wire...auber says two (I think)


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## coffeechap

I can help you when I get back Tuesday if you want


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## Spazbarista

That is a kind offer.

I'm out of my depth here, never having had anything to do with electricals. I don't understand the terminology or the diagrams. In fact I'm having great difficulty even following allthe lines on the diagrams.


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## coffeechap

Just leave yours as is and I will come over and sort it


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## Dallah

Patrick;

If its not too much trouble, would you be able to measure the dimensions of the unit inside the grinder body? I'm wondering if I could fit one in one of my Macap MXA grinders.


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## The Systemic Kid

coffeechap said:


> Just leave yours as is and I will come over and sort it


Nice one Dave.


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## Spazbarista

coffeechap said:


> Just leave yours as is and I will come over and sort it


Thanks Dave, much appreciated!

Edit: F*ckarse! I sited the Auber hole too low and the ****ing plastic prong on the fitting fouls the bottom plate. Plus I skidded the dreml a couple of times when making the hole.

But apart from that it's a tidy job


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## The Systemic Kid

ridland said:


> Patrick;
> 
> If its not too much trouble, would you be able to measure the dimensions of the unit inside the grinder body? I'm wondering if I could fit one in one of my Macap MXA grinders.


Don't have the Mazzer any more.


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## The Systemic Kid

ridland said:


> Patrick;
> 
> If its not too much trouble, would you be able to measure the dimensions of the unit inside the grinder body? I'm wondering if I could fit one in one of my Macap MXA grinders.


From Auberin website - here you go -

JSL-72 is the one to use.

Panel cutout: 44.5 x 44.5 mm.

Outer dimension: 48 x 48 x 85 mm.

So the relay will project around 82-83mm into the body of your grinder with height and width of around 44.5mm


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## Dallah

Thanks for that Patrick. So much nicer than RTFM, which I definitely deserved.



The Systemic Kid said:


> From Auberin website - here you go -
> 
> JSL-72 is the one to use.
> 
> Panel cutout: 44.5 x 44.5 mm.
> 
> Outer dimension: 48 x 48 x 85 mm.
> 
> So the relay will project around 82-83mm into the body of your grinder with height and width of around 44.5mm


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## Spazbarista

Just had another go at interpreting the wiring diagram for the Mazzer.

I understood it perfectly this time up as far as the on/off switch.


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## jeebsy

I'm thinking about reading this, but after the current round of shit i don't plan on touching anything remotely complicated for a while

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Electronics-Dummies-UK-Dickon-Ross/dp/0470681780/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435486345&sr=8-1&keywords=electronics+for+dummies


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## Spazbarista

I'm quite surprised at what a retard I'm being over this.


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## Mr O

If it helps I too am rubbish with electrics. I'm more than happy to take most stuff on but electrics....


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## The Systemic Kid

If you follow the Mazzer wiring diagram, the power flows along the chocolate connector through the three cut off switches - doser, thwacker etc. Any one of those three will break the circuit and cut power to the motor. After going through the last switch, power goes to A2 (as I recall - don't have the diagram in front of me) on the connector. When power hits A2, it causes the connector to bridge and allow power to the motor. You can hear it click quite loudly when it operates. The connector's role, I believe, is to handle large amounts of power. Providing you don't break the circuit by removing any or all of the cut off switches, you run the power out from the Auberin relay so it goes into the connector at A2 either directly or through the various cut off switches first.


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## Spazbarista

Nope.

Still don't geddit


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## Thecatlinux

Sounds right to me Patrick .

a contractor is a device to switch a larger current in this case the motor , The contractor will have two inputs to switch it on (energise) terminals a1 and terminal a2 , one of those terminal (doesn't matter which one ) will have neutral connection and the other terminal when a voltage is applied will energise the contractor and thus starting the motor.

this wire is known as a control wire , and as Patrick point out passes through various switches , these switches will normally in most cases be in series this means all the switches will have to made for the contractor to energise .

All you are doing with the timer is adding another switch to the series of switches .

the only other thing that is required is a supply Live and a Neutral to power the timer .

if you are struggling PM me with a diagram of your grinder and I will help you .


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## Thecatlinux

For the grinder :

You need to identify three things

Live conductor after the main switch

Neutral conductor after the main switch

Control wire going to contractor ( this will be A1 or A2 can't say which ones is which without diagram one is the control wire one is a neutral )

For the timer :

you you need to identify these four terminals

Live for the timer itself

Neutral for the timer itself

Common terminal for the switching

Switch terminal either Normally open or normally closed

once you have identified these it's plain sailing

once you have found the control wire going to the contactor this will go to the common terminal of the timer and then either the normally open or normally closed ( depends how timer is configured) will go to the terminal on the contactor the control wire was going too.


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## The Systemic Kid

The contactor is the white box next to the big capacitor.

















Look at terminal L1 on the contactor - top left. A brown power line goes from that to the chocolate box. On the other side of the choc box connector for that terminal is red/black leads. Tthe red black leads go to the first in a series of cut off switches that govern - hopper removal safety switch, doser full cut off and finally the twacker on the doser. Any one of these three switches when activated, can break the overall power circuit which flows from one to the next before ending up at A2 on the contactor. For power to get to A2 via this circuit, all safety switches must be in the closed position. If you want to retain any or all of these switches, you run the power out lead from the Auberin relay unit to









where the red arrow is pointing in the above diagram. You should remove the wires with crosses through them first. To orient yourself regarding the choc box unit - find where mains power comes into it on the right of the above diagram. You can then count along to find the right terminals to work on. Using this method, you leave the hopper safety switch and the upper doser switch still operating. You can see how power now flows from the Auberin relay unit down through the lower micro switch, then up to the hopper safety switch after which it ends up at A2.

If you don't any of the safety switches to work, connect the power out from the Auberin relay unit direct to A2. Then when you operate either of the three momentary switches, power is applied to A2 and the contactor will operate and power the motor. If you go for this option, it's prudent to remove the redundant wires to the safety switches.


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## risky

I was going to enquire as to how easy this would be to do to a SJ timer (and whether it would fit) but all this electronics stuff is putting me off big time. That is, unless it's easier on a timer because there are less electronics than the auto versions?

Also @The Systemic Kid, how did you get that finish on the grinder? Just buffed back to the bare metal?


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## MrShades

The Systemic Kid said:


> The contactor is the white box next to the big capacitor.
> 
> View attachment 15135
> 
> 
> View attachment 15134
> 
> 
> Look at terminal L1 on the contactor - top left. A brown power line goes from that to the chocolate box. On the other side of the choc box connector for that terminal is red/black leads. Tthe red black leads go to the first in a series of cut off switches that govern - hopper removal safety switch, doser full cut off and finally the twacker on the doser. Any one of these three switches when activated, can break the overall power circuit which flows from one to the next before ending up at A2 on the contactor. For power to get to A2 via this circuit, all safety switches must be in the closed position. If you want to retain any or all of these switches, you run the power out lead from the Auberin relay unit to
> 
> View attachment 15136
> 
> 
> where the red arrow is pointing in the above diagram. You should remove the wires with crosses through them first. To orient yourself regarding the choc box unit - find where mains power comes into it on the right of the above diagram. You can then count along to find the right terminals to work on. Using this method, you leave the hopper safety switch and the upper doser switch still operating. You can see how power now flows from the Auberin relay unit down through the lower micro switch, then up to the hopper safety switch after which it ends up at A2.
> 
> If you don't any of the safety switches to work, connect the power out from the Auberin relay unit direct to A2. Then when you operate either of the three momentary switches, power is applied to A2 and the contactor will operate and power the motor. If you go for this option, it's prudent to remove the redundant wires to the safety switches.


 @The Systemic Kid That last circuit diagram looks really useful - if only I could read it.... You don't happen to have a higher res version do you?


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## Dylan

risky said:


> I was going to enquire as to how easy this would be to do to a SJ timer (and whether it would fit) but all this electronics stuff is putting me off big time. That is, unless it's easier on a timer because there are less electronics than the auto versions?
> 
> Also @The Systemic Kid, how did you get that finish on the grinder? Just buffed back to the bare metal?


The come like that from the factory, just highly polished steel I think.


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## risky

Dylan said:


> The come like that from the factory, just highly polished steel I think.


You're corect, I just searched, it's polished aluminium.


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## jeebsy

You can do it yourself though (see urban's)


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## Dylan

jeebsy said:


> You can do it yourself though (see urban's)


It's a lot of work, and the finish on a cast body can vary. I know CC spent hours doing his by hand, which I cant even fathom, mine is part way through but completely done with power tools, and that was enough work as it is.


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## The Systemic Kid

risky said:


> I was going to enquire as to how easy this would be to do to a SJ timer (and whether it would fit) but all this electronics stuff is putting me off big time. That is, unless it's easier on a timer because there are less electronics than the auto versions?
> 
> Also @The Systemic Kid, how did you get that finish on the grinder? Just buffed back to the bare metal?


The Major came with that finish - polished aluminum.


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## Spazbarista

The Systemic Kid said:


> The contactor is the white box next to the big capacitor.
> 
> View attachment 15135
> 
> 
> View attachment 15134
> 
> 
> Look at terminal L1 on the contactor - top left. A brown power line goes from that to the chocolate box. On the other side of the choc box connector for that terminal is red/black leads. Tthe red black leads go to the first in a series of cut off switches that govern - hopper removal safety switch, doser full cut off and finally the twacker on the doser. Any one of these three switches when activated, can break the overall power circuit which flows from one to the next before ending up at A2 on the contactor. For power to get to A2 via this circuit, all safety switches must be in the closed position. If you want to retain any or all of these switches, you run the power out lead from the Auberin relay unit to
> 
> View attachment 15136
> 
> 
> where the red arrow is pointing in the above diagram. You should remove the wires with crosses through them first. To orient yourself regarding the choc box unit - find where mains power comes into it on the right of the above diagram. You can then count along to find the right terminals to work on. Using this method, you leave the hopper safety switch and the upper doser switch still operating. You can see how power now flows from the Auberin relay unit down through the lower micro switch, then up to the hopper safety switch after which it ends up at A2.
> 
> If you don't any of the safety switches to work, connect the power out from the Auberin relay unit direct to A2. Then when you operate either of the three momentary switches, power is applied to A2 and the contactor will operate and power the motor. If you go for this option, it's prudent to remove the redundant wires to the safety switches.


Thanks Patrick....the fog is incomprehension is slowly lifting. However, I don't know what the "the power out from the Auberin relay unit" terminal is. Is there a power in one too? If so which is it and what do I connect it to. Also Don't know where to connect the momentary switches and in what order.


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## The Systemic Kid

This is the relay unit's wiring diagram









You want to take power into it - live and neutral from the circuit in the Major that supplies power to the 'on' light. This way, when you turn on the grinder (first position) power goes to the 'on' lamp and now to your relay unit. Live goes to '9' and neutral to '10'. The momentary switches are wired to the other side of the relay unit. '5', '4' and '3' go to one terminal each on the three momentary switches with the other lead from each switch going to a common terminal on the relay unit - '2'. So you have to wire three wires into that terminal point which is a tad fiddly. Make sure all are securely fixed. Now you run a power lead from the relay unit terminal '7' to the designated terminal on the chocolate bar in the Major or direct to A2 on the contactor if you want to bypass all the safety switches.

This is what the relay unit looks like when it's finally wired up.









Note power in from the Major's 'on' lamp circuit on the right. Note also that the live 'in' to terminal '9' is bridged to terminal '8'.


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## Spazbarista

My lamp isn't actually wired in, believe in or not.

On the Mazzer diagram I can see that it is wired into 1 and 3 on the contactor. I tried to wire the lamp in myself but couldn't fit it, there just wasnt space in the terminal that already has two wires. There are 4 other wires coming out ot 1 and 3 all going off to different places, so I can't even identify the 'lamp circuit'.

I'm going to give up. I really don't understand the Mazzer diagram enough to trust what I might do. How is it that I can do the Times crossword, but I cant do this?


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## coffeechap

Help is on its way


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## Spazbarista

Thanks Coffeechap (in advance), and thanks to Systemic and Catlinux for their forebearance.


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## Spazbarista

I now have one fully functioning timered grinder thanks to a flying visit from coffeechap. Neat and tidy wiring job too.

Many thanks Dave


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## The Systemic Kid

cue


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## Spazbarista

Was more like this.....


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## Thecatlinux

@coffechap



coffeechap said:


> Help is on its way


Definatly mr enabler today 

@Spazbarista



Spazbarista said:


> Was more like this.....


not seen this before  second time I've laughed today


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## Spazbarista

Not seen Brazil? It's wonderful!


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## jeebsy

Pictures please


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## Spazbarista

There more I think about it, this post is probably the best one I've ever made...



Spazbarista said:


> Was more like this.....


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## urbanbumpkin

I'm looking at adding the auber timer to my Major in the next week or so. I'm just opened it up to try and wire it up to test before cutting holes in it.

Am I correct in thinking that once ive wired it up the switch needs to be in the green light position to get the auber buttons to work? If I click the switch to the next on position does it still run the motor constantly?

Any tips?


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## Spazbarista

I hope its not me you are asking.

As far as Im concerned they work by magic.


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## The Systemic Kid

Your Auberins is the switch, Clive, once powered. So, when you turn the Mazzer on, you deliver power to the green light circuit and, by default, to the Auberins. You the mazzer motor power position is now bypassed and redundant. When you press any of the three Auberins power buttons, power is delivered to run the motor.


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## urbanbumpkin

The Systemic Kid said:


> Your Auberins is the switch, Clive, once powered. So, when you turn the Mazzer on, you deliver power to the green light circuit and, by default, to the Auberins. You the mazzer motor power position is now bypassed and redundant. When you press any of the three Auberins power buttons, power is delivered to run the motor.


Cheers Patrick. So when adjusting the grind I'd need to turn on the motor with any of the 3 buttons? I'm just thinking as the collar generally need 2 hands to adjust it, one of the timer buttons will need to be pressed.


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## The Systemic Kid

You could re-programme one of the timed buttons temporarily to run for a minute or two to give you enough time to move the adjustment collar or get someone to hold the non-timed button while you adjust the collar.


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## urbanbumpkin

The Systemic Kid said:


> You could re-programme one of the timed buttons temporarily to run for a minute or two to give you enough time to move the adjustment collar or get someone to hold the non-timed button while you adjust the collar.


Just a thought could the non timed button be a toggled switch? Press it once to turn it on and press it again to turn it off?


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## urbanbumpkin

I've just had a look at the Auber wiring diagram. From what I can understand they're saying disconnect the wires with the red crosses on ( and wrap with insulation tape and connect the auber timer to 2 places. Where on the auber timer do yo connect these to?


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## coffeechap

I will send you photos this evening clive


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## urbanbumpkin

coffeechap said:


> I will send you photos this evening clive


Cheers Dave


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## coffeechap

Hope these help Clive

Also if you press a button it will start, if you then press it again mid time it will pause so you could set a long shot on one button then interrupt for dialling in


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## urbanbumpkin

Thanks Dave, a gent as always. I'll have a look at this tomorrow when I'm less drunk.


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## G.F.

The Systemic Kid said:


> Seems to work


Awesome work.


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## urbanbumpkin

I was thinking of putting the buttons on the right hand side as I tend to hold the PF with left hand and thwack the doser with my right.

As my grinder is close to my machine I might put the timer on the opposite side (left hand side). That way I can see it to adjust it without having to move the grinder every time.


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## coffeechap

just make sure you have enough space wherever you choose to place it


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## G.F.

urbanbumpkin said:


> I was thinking of putting the buttons on the right hand side as I tend to hold the PF with left hand and thwack the doser with my right.


What you are going to do to the existing holes on the left side? you will cover them?


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## urbanbumpkin

G.F. said:


> What you are going to do to the existing holes on the left side? you will cover them?


There aren't any holes yet.


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## urbanbumpkin

Ok I've had another butchers at this tonight.

My Major is wired up similarly to the Auber diagram with the absence of the 2 lower micro switches.



















Also on mine the feed from the Contactor A2 is the grey wire that goes into the bottom connector block 4th from the left.

4th from left on the top of the block is the wire to 2 on the contactor which according to Auber I should remove along with the loop wire.

As far as I can work out this where I need to wire one of the feeds from the Timer.

The other needs to go into the bottom block 4th from right (green wire that also needs to be disconnected that's connected to Switch A).

Sound about right?


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## urbanbumpkin

Just when thought I was getting my head round it I've just looked at Dave's diagram for the Auber timer to the Major and I'm totally confused.










I was expecting 2 wires going into the block. The button side I understand I think.


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## coffeechap

urbanbumpkin said:


> Ok I've had another butchers at this tonight.
> 
> My Major is wired up similarly to the Auber diagram with the absence of the 2 lower micro switches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on mine the feed from the Contactor A2 is the grey wire that goes into the bottom connector block 4th from the left.
> 
> 4th from left on the top of the block is the wire to 2 on the contactor which according to Auber I should remove along with the loop wire.
> 
> As far as I can work out this where I need to wire one of the feeds from the Timer.
> 
> The other needs to go into the bottom block 4th from right (green wire that also needs to be disconnected that's connected to Switch A).
> 
> Sound about right?


Sounds about right. The simplified diagram that I drew was based on how Patrick wired his, you will notice that many of the blocks on yours are doing nothing but keeping the original wires safe in a block, trace them and you will see there is no current going to them.


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## urbanbumpkin

Thanks Dave. That sounds relatively straightforward GULP! Just need to work out space on the right hand side and chop in the holes.


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## The Systemic Kid

Have a look at mine, Clive. That will give you a good idea where you will have sufficient space to locate the push switches. The good news is they don't need much clearance inside the Mazzer's body.

The thing you do have to pay attention to is locating the timer unit which will require you to probably reposition the capacitor attached to the base plate but this is easy to do.


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## urbanbumpkin

The Systemic Kid said:


> Have a look at mine, Clive. That will give you a good idea where you will have sufficient space to locate the push switches. The good news is they don't need much clearance inside the Mazzer's body.
> 
> The thing you do have to pay attention to is locating the timer unit which will require you to probably reposition the capacitor attached to the base plate but this is easy to do.


Cheers Patrick. Do you mean the square contactor? As that seems perfectly "in the way" and is attached to the base.


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## The Systemic Kid

Not the chocolate box connectors - the cylinder/capacitor? that's attached to the base plate. I had to move it slightly so the timer didn't snag it when inserted.


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## urbanbumpkin

The Systemic Kid said:


> Not the chocolate box connectors - the cylinder/capacitor? that's attached to the base plate. I had to move it slightly so the timer didn't snag it when inserted.


Cheers Patrick mines not attached to the base plate, it's attached to a grinder body.


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## urbanbumpkin

I think if I'm going to put the timer on the back right hand side I'll have to mover the Siemans contactor box forward or to the side.


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## urbanbumpkin

coffeechap said:


> Sounds about right. The simplified diagram that I drew was based on how Patrick wired his, you will notice that many of the blocks on yours are doing nothing but keeping the original wires safe in a block, trace them and you will see there is no current going to them.


Nearly got there....the only bit I'm no 100% on where the 10-6 wiring on the auber its self connects to. See below










Where do these connect to on grinder? As the other auber Mazzer diagram only has 2 wires coming from the timer to the block.

Apologies for being a thicko!


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## Dylan

The blue and brown wires coming out of the bottom of the wire connector are your live and neutral (blue = neutral, brown = live)

If you unplug the ones that go to the grinder you have the two wires coming out of the grinder in that diagram (black is live, blue is neutral in that diagram)


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## urbanbumpkin

Dylan said:


> The blue and brown wires coming out of the bottom of the wire connector are your live and neutral (blue = neutral, brown = live)
> 
> If you unplug the ones that go to the grinder you have the two wires coming out of the grinder in that diagram (black is live, blue is neutral in that diagram)


Cheers Dylan. Disconnect the blue and brown at the connector block?


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## urbanbumpkin

So currently on the connector block there's a brown wire that goes to the switch on Mazzer U/T1 and a blue that goes to V/T2.

Am I right in thinking I need to disconnect the brown at the connector block and wire it to 10 on the Auber and the same with the blue but connect to 7 on the Auber?

So effectively

Mazzer switch U/T1 goes to Auber 10

Mazzer switch V/T2 goes to Auber 7

Also the Auber Mazzer diagram has 2 connections from the Auber timer to the connector block that is wired to.

Switch A and contactor terminal 1

And

A2 on the contactor.

I'm guessing these are connections to 10 and 9 on the Auber. But which way round?


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## Dylan

I didn't have a contactor in mine so I'm not sure on your questions regarding that.

But with regards to this:



> Am I right in thinking I need to disconnect the brown at the connector block and wire it to 10 on the Auber and the same with the blue but connect to 7 on the Auber?


Basically yes to this question.

Then once you have done so run a new wire from each of the places you just disconnected the Live and Neutral from and wire them to

Live (brown) to 9+8

Neutral (blue) to 10

A good place to get new wires that are rated for mains current is from an old kettle lead or similar.


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## urbanbumpkin

Cheers Dylan

What goes to 7 on the Auber?










This is how I've interpreted the 2 Auber diagrams. But I'm still at a loss to where the wires I've marked in green connect to the Auber timer. Any suggestions welcome. @coffeechap?


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## Dylan

Annoyingly that auber diagram has the live wire as blue, it's like it wants you to blow things up.

The BROWN wire which was originally connected to the connector goes to 7.

Then connect the terminal you have labelled UT1 to 9+8 and connect the terminal you have labelled VT2 to 10.


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## urbanbumpkin

Like this? The dotted lines are where they're currently connected to.


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## coffeechap

Clive, I will take details led photos for you in 30 mins, just follow the wiring that I post


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## Dylan

Not quite I don't think, but ill stop explaining as it will be much simpler once CC helps out with photos


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## urbanbumpkin

coffeechap said:


> Clive, I will take details led photos for you in 30 mins, just follow the wiring that I post


Cheers Chap.


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## urbanbumpkin

Dylan said:


> Yes to your above question, but will be much simpler once CC helps out


Thanks Dylan.............


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## Dylan

urbanbumpkin said:


> Thanks Dylan.............


Went back and edited that post as I think actually that image you posted bypasses the auber so the grinder would just operate normally and the auber wouldn't do anything.

Will be easier once CC chips in with photos.


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## grumpydaddy

Do you have the full diagram and connection assignment list?

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Mazzer1.pdf

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/JSL-72.pdf

Think of it like this:

coming in to the grinder is the mains cable with line, neutral and earth

The earth is grounded to the grinder body

The line and neutral terminate in the connector block and from the other side of that block go to the switch

R/L1 of the switch goes to terminal 1 of the contactor. There are 2 more wires in terminal 1, one goes to the terminal block the other to the power on lamp on the body of the grinder

S/L2 of the switch goes to terminal 3 of the contactor. There are 2 more wires in terminal 3, one goes to the power on lamp, the other goes via the motor thermal cut out back to the contactor on terminal A1. (this will stop the contactor operating if the thermal cut out has tripped)

At this point I would suggest adding a wire from terminal 3 of the contactor to an empty connection on the terminal block. (shown in blue below)

Looking at Fig 2 (in the above link and previous posts) with all the red crosses etc on it you can see that, with a timer fitted, all of the microswitches and probably the hopper safety switch can be disconnected and removed

Two considerations then for the timer:

1. it needs power to run

2. it needs to power the contactor coil when operated.

take the power for the timer from the connector block where the 2 wires come from terminals 1 (live) and 3 (neutral) of the contactor

on the timer connect the live (red/brown) terminal (9) to terminal 7 with a link

then connect the output terminal (8) to the contactor coil connection A2 at the terminal block

After discarding all the unused wiring the end result should look like this:


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## coffeechap

See below


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## coffeechap

The photo that I posted of Patrick's wiring confuses things as he has left the wiring in place to convert the grinder back. Essentially the only cables that need to go through the terminal block are the live and neutral from the power cable to t2 and t1 on the Mazzer switch. A2 on the contactor then goes direct to the auber unit to terminal 7. 8 is bridged to 9. 9 also has Cable going back to 1 on contactor. 10 on auber has cable going to 2 on contactor.


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## grumpydaddy

Colour edit to pic in previous post.

On the output from the timer:

The connections 7 and 8 are interchangeable. as long as one has the link to live connected and the other goes to the coil of the contactor.


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## Stevebee

urbanbumpkin said:


> Ok I've had another butchers at this tonight.
> 
> My Major is wired up similarly to the Auber diagram with the absence of the 2 lower micro switches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on mine the feed from the Contactor A2 is the grey wire that goes into the bottom connector block 4th from the left.
> 
> 4th from left on the top of the block is the wire to 2 on the contactor which according to Auber I should remove along with the loop wire.
> 
> As far as I can work out this where I need to wire one of the feeds from the Timer.
> 
> The other needs to go into the bottom block 4th from right (green wire that also needs to be disconnected that's connected to Switch A).
> 
> Sound about right?


Have just completed the timer mod using the information on this thread - very helpful.

I've taken out the micro switches to simplify it and it's working well.

One question I do have if anyone can help. I had two red wires coming from the On switch at points marked A.

They went to the choc box and were linked to the micro switches. Having removed the micro switches I'm not sure

if I need these and not sure want they do. If anyone more technical than me (most people) could give me an idea. @coffeechap @Dylan @The Systemic Kid


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## The Systemic Kid

@Stevebee if they are going to the various micro switches which are now redundant, you can remove them. But are you referring to power lead into the contactor - if so, without power the contactor won't switch the motor on.


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## Stevebee

@The Systemic Kid No, the two leads coming from the point marked A (there are 2 of them) on the on/off switch.

At the moment I've left them coming out of A but going nowhere (other end wrapped in electrical tape.)

Will remove them to tidy the job. The 16mm hole cutter and Dremel (same as you) worked a treat.

I've put button 1 and 2 on the side with the manual one at the front but on the Royal there's plenty of space.


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## Stevebee

Final steps will be the Octopus funnel mod, when it arrives from China, followed by a full disassembly for it to be sent for powder coating. Don't trust my spray painting skills and the finish will look better. Just got to decide on the colour now.


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## blazarov

Hello,

I have installed the Auber timer along with the octopus funnel on my old SJ and just found that thread so decided to share pictures. Also added a homemade static screen, which is an absolute must for consistent timed dosing.

I like the original E models design idea so did it that way.

P.S. What dose to dose weight consistency do you achieve?

My targets are 9g for single and 18 for double and it is usually within +/- .3g when no changes in grind setting and hopper is not too empty.


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## coffeechap

Ooo I lave that little lady you have


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## blazarov

/offtopic

She just turned 20, but it is in very good condition 

I bought it recently, but so far i dont like the taste in the cup.

Installed OPV but didnt really help with the taste. Funny the original brew tstat is 110C and the water is always boiling. I am PIDing it soon and hope lower and stable temp will improve the taste or i am replacing it..


----------



## jimbojohn55

blazarov said:


> /offtopic
> 
> She just turned 20, but it is in very good condition
> 
> I bought it recently, but so far i dont like the taste in the cup.
> 
> Installed OPV but didnt really help with the taste. Funny the original brew tstat is 110C and the water is always boiling. I am PIDing it soon and hope lower and stable temp will improve the taste or i am replacing it..


Have you tried a lever like a Pavoni?


----------



## blazarov

No, I have a friend with La Pavoni Pro and it is very nice.

However this is a cheap setup for my office and i tried to make it as straightforward and easy as possible so my workmates would use it too (and eventually get hooked on fresh espresso instead of pods or robot) and in that respect the Auber timer mod for the SJ was great success.

The Auber "mileage" counter shows 1200+ for less than a month so not bad usage


----------



## urbanbumpkin

blazarov said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have installed the Auber timer along with the octopus funnel on my old SJ and just found that thread so decided to share pictures. Also added a homemade static screen, which is an absolute must for consistent timed dosing.
> 
> I like the original E models design idea so did it that way.
> 
> P.S. What dose to dose weight consistency do you achieve?
> 
> My targets are 9g for single and 18 for double and it is usually within +/- .3g when no changes in grind setting and hopper is not too empty.


Looks Fantastic. What did you make the static screen out of?


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## blazarov

I cut the outer frame from tin jar cap and soldered single wire from UTP cable for the cross-sections.

Works pretty good


----------



## MSM

Would someone mind looking over the images in my Royal and helping me work out that I need to connect?

There are a lot more cables than I thought there would be!

Switches are done on the timer, just need to work out where 8, 9 and 10 on the timer go.

























Am I correct in thinking...

Timer 7 - goes to contactor A2? currently A2 is connected to a red wire going to what I assume is the hopper safety switch on the wiring block.

Timer 9 - goes to L1? Do I disconnect any cables from L1?

Timer 10 - goes to L2? Do I disconnect any cables from L2?

I can take some more images if that helps?

Thanks!


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## Rob1

You need really to supply a wiring diagram or find one by searching on google. Fairly certain they were posted over on home barista and maybe even on the auberins website?


----------



## MSM

Could just be me then, but I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for the Royal. ?

If anyone has one, could they please share it?


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## grumpydaddy

I do not think there is any difference between this and the Major. @coffeechap might know better.

If you open it up and compare what you have with:

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Mazzer1.pdf

You could make sure.

Removing the old and unused safety switches then adding a connector block with a view to having as many single wire connections as possible to make sure the connections are good resulted in this:









The original drawing was for a USA model.


----------

