# Gene Caffè, the temperature rises too slowly



## genecaffe

Good evening, I have a GC from a few days, I roasted only three lots (all of Sidamo GR2), to see the developments.

I read a lot and I understood that the temp of the GC that I read on the display is that of the outgoing air and not of the bean.

I read that many of you preheat, at 100 ° and then after 5 minutes they raise the temperature to 240 or 250 ° so far everything is ok. Then I read that after 1C the temp is lowered to 232 °, generally around the minute 11 or 12. And here's my problem, my temperature does not rise, for example at minute 8 I'm at 202 °, at 12 minute I'm at 218 ° and I reach 232 ° only at minute 18. I think there is something wrong, I do not understand. I also checked with an instrument the absorption in Volt, always ra 224 and 225, here in Italy we have the 220V, like you. I also did two tests without beans and the temperature goes up faster, for example, minute by minute 8 I got 224 °, against 202 ° with beans, at 12 minutes I got 242 ° and I reached 250 ° a minute 14.

I also tried without chaffer, (useful finally to hear 1C that generally comes to me around 15 minutes with 226 °) but things do not change. Do you have any ideas?


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## Rob1

I'm not sure how "many" pre heat to 100c or at all, but probably very few. Pre heating to 100c really isn't doing anything except for providing some consistency for back to back roasts. Your voltage is low. We have 240v+ in the uk (I tend to be around 245v) some people drop below 240v. I'm assuming you have a 230v element, based on your times I'm guessing you do because they aren't that far out from the norm. With a 250g batch you'll get a slower temp rise than with an empty chamber. If you're getting FC at about 15 minutes you're probably on the right track, you'll just have to use the roaster a little differently I.e. do what you can regarding temp reduction and so on. Obviously you can't reduce temp from 235c to 230c on first crack so you need to figure out what to do instead.


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## genecaffe

In effetti ho sempre 224-225 Volt, devo solo costruire il mio profilo senza tenere conto dei molti profili letti sul forum. Devo dire che in questo modo ottengo gli arrosti in circa 19 minuti e nonostante la differenza con il tuo tempo, ho pensato che fossero imbevibili, ma sono normali, sicuramente migliorati, ma non male


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## genecaffe

the fact is that I use the 220V in Italy and the GC is 240V can make me problems about it? Can I do anything?


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## Rob1

Your roast is running about two or three minutes longer than mine but very little is happening to the beans before they start to turn pale and shed skin. For me this happens in 5 minutes. What's important is the ability to control the roast at and after first crack, and no you won't be able to follow profiles you've seen here but you can likely replicate things like first crack length and development time (first crack start to roast end). If you spend a lot longer moving from yellowing to first crack (say longer than 6 minutes) you might want to do things differently later in the roast but I can't really give any advice about that, it's probably best for you to experiment yourself as you'll want to do different things with different beans anyway.


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## Rob1

If your Gene has a 240v element you need to replace it with a 230v one.


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## genecaffe

> Se il tuo gene ha un elemento 240v devi sostituirlo con un 230v. [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Non sono molto pratico, come posso fare?


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## MediumRoastSteam

genecaffe said:


> Se il tuo gene ha un elemento 240v devi sostituirlo con un 230v. [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Non sono molto pratico, come posso fare?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!i understand Italian, I speak to a decent level, but writing in Italian is not my strength.
> 
> To replace it, you'll need to replace the whole of the heating assembly I believe. Are you sure you have a 240V element? Where did you buy it from?
Click to expand...


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## Rob1

Follow this guide: http://coffeetimex.wikidot.com/gene-cafe-dimmer-control-mod-stage-2

I believe if you open the gene up you'll be able to see the voltage of the heating element printed somewhere (either on the cables, the assembly or the circuit board). It might also say on the box or even on any labels you have on the gene. Bottom line: you will be able to find out what voltage the element is somewhere. And I made a mistake earlier, it is a 220v replacement element not 230v (though you can also get those). I don't know where you'll be able to get hold of one. Might be worth emailing genesis directly?


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## MediumRoastSteam

There's a rating plate at the back of the Gene. It has a bar code, a serial number, date of manufacture and the appliance voltage and wattage. Mine reads "AC 240V, 50/60Hz, 1.3KW, Apr 10, 2017".


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## genecaffe

I'm going crazy to send a picture with my smartphone, but I confirm that on my label is written AC 240V, 50 / 60Hz 1.3 KW

but the truth is that I can not use it better except with a change? Absurd I see if I can return it, I do not spend € 500 for a product to be changed. What do you recommend?


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## Rob1

Where did you buy it? I'm not too sure how the power is regulated in mainland Europe.


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## genecaffe

It comes from the United Kingdom. What do you mean by I'm not sure how power is regulated in continental Europe?


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## tonerei

You need the 230v one. I am in Ireland and voltage in my house is showing 225-229v. I had problems with my Genecafe and when I got new temp probes I had problems similar to you. The profiles in the manual were unreachable. Get on to the supplier and get a 230v power supply. I also reduced the volume of beans down to 200g. It heats to higher levels now but so far does not come close to the suggested profiles in manual. But it is roasting beans fine. In the UK voltage seems to be higher than the rest of europe. You might be as low as 220v.


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## MediumRoastSteam

genecaffe said:


> It comes from the United Kingdom. What do you mean by I'm not sure how power is regulated in continental Europe?


What does it say in the rating plate at the back? Is it 240 or 230? Which company did you buy it from?


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## MediumRoastSteam

Sorry, just saw the post above. You should not have bought the 240V model, as this is specific for the UK, as the voltage here is in practice, 240V.

For example, on Bella Barista: https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/brands/gene-cafe-coffee-roaster-101a-240v-with-large-chaff-collector-black.html

And

https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/brands/gene-cafe-coffee-roaster-101a-230v-with-large-chaff-collector-black.html

Note the descriptions clearly state the products suitability.

The heating assembly alone will cost you £74....

https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/coffee-roasters-for-sale/coffee-roasters/genecafe-230v-heater-box-cra97-003a.html

If you can, I'd get in touch to where you bought it from and discuss your options.


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## ajohn

tonerei said:


> You need the 230v one. I am in Ireland and voltage in my house is showing 225-229v. I had problems with my Genecafe and when I got new temp probes I had problems similar to you. The profiles in the manual were unreachable. Get on to the supplier and get a 230v power supply. I also reduced the volume of beans down to 200g. It heats to higher levels now but so far does not come close to the suggested profiles in manual. But it is roasting beans fine. In the UK voltage seems to be higher than the rest of europe. You might be as low as 220v.


I believe most / all of Europe is 230v.







UK too but if the spec they work to is looked at it's still the same as it has always been - more like 240v. There are all sorts of reasons why it's difficult to make changes to this so the best option is for people in various countries to look for what their own suppliers provide. It will be around somewhere or the other, max and min. In the UK it's 230 -6% +10% so 242v nominal. Other parts of Europe are traditionally 220v but the same limits can be used to say that they use 230v. Best link I could find

https://www.schneider-electric.co.uk/en/faqs/FA144717/

It's an EU standard that should have been updated in 2010 (?? Not sure about date ) but wasn't. 225-229v sounds like it could be a good solid 220v supply to me.

John

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## ashcroc

ajohn said:


> I believe most / all of Europe is 230v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UK too but if the spec they work to is looked at it's still the same as it has always been - more like 240v. There are all sorts of reasons why it's difficult to make changes to this so the best option is for people in various countries to look for what their own suppliers provide. It will be around somewhere or the other, max and min. In the UK it's 230 -6% +10% so 242v nominal. Other parts of Europe are traditionally 220v but the same limits can be used to say that they use 230v. Best link I could find
> 
> https://www.schneider-electric.co.uk/en/faqs/FA144717/
> 
> It's an EU standard that should have been updated in 2010 (?? Not sure about date ) but wasn't. 225-229v sounds like it could be a good solid 220v supply to me.
> 
> John
> 
> -


I was under the impression when the powers that be decided to standardise the whole of the EU to 230v, they put decided a 10v variance was acceptable so the infrastructure didn't have to change.


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## ajohn

ashcroc said:


> I was under the impression when the powers that be decided to standardise the whole of the EU to 230v, they put decided a 10v variance was acceptable so the infrastructure didn't have to change.


They set a limit of -6% to +10% EU wide. In 2003 I think. The actual voltage can be important. I bought an enamelling furnace from a seller in Germany, Ebay at a rather nice price. After a month waiting for it to arrive I contacted the seller. They had to redesign the element and then test it at 240v as they were for 220v. These things run the elements at a temperature that's pretty close to them having problems so more critical than a Gene probably is but I'd guess that people who live in a traditional 220v area should buy a 220v Gene. I don't know why 230v ones were introduced other than @DavecUK was using them in the UK to allow more heat when cold air is going in.

So when a Gene is designed it should be suitable for local nominal mains voltage. There may be no need for a 230v one. Actually if we all started to have to heat our homes via electricity and nothing else a higher voltage would make more sense.

John

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## johnealey

Bringing the thread back to answer the OP's query of what is wrong, they have a 240v element in an area that has less than 240v supply so either the whole gene needs changing or a replacement 230v heater unit fitted.

The little gene is really susceptible to voltage changes even when you have the correct heating element, hence why people do the control mods to try and even some of this out (roasted 150+ kg over a few years to comment on this)

@genecaffe hopefully you will get this sorted, when you do the Gene is a lovely little roaster that just needs a little assistance to become a great little roaster.

John


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## ashcroc

ajohn said:


> They set a limit of -6% to +10% EU wide. In 2003 I think. The actual voltage can be important. I bought an enamelling furnace from a seller in Germany, Ebay at a rather nice price. After a month waiting for it to arrive I contacted the seller. They had to redesign the element and then test it at 240v as they were for 220v. These things run the elements at a temperature that's pretty close to them having problems so more critical than a Gene probably is but I'd guess that people who live in a traditional 220v area should buy a 220v Gene. I don't know why 230v ones were introduced other than @DavecUK was using them in the UK to allow more heat when cold air is going in.
> 
> So when a Gene is designed it should be suitable for local nominal mains voltage. There may be no need for a 230v one. Actually if we all started to have to heat our homes via electricity and nothing else a higher voltage would make more sense.
> 
> John
> 
> -


-6% to +10% of 230v means anything from 216.2v to 253v is within spec.


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## Rob1

genecaffe said:


> It comes from the United Kingdom. What do you mean by I'm not sure how power is regulated in continental Europe?


In light of all of the information above I'd say you don't have the right to return it as you simply bought the wrong one. Shipping it back would have to come out of your pocket even if the seller did accept the return.


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## genecaffe

I sent an email to Gene and one to the seller. What do you think would be the best solution?


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## ajohn

johnealey said:


> Bringing the thread back to answer the OP's query of what is wrong, they have a 240v element in an area that has less than 240v supply so either the whole gene needs changing or a replacement 230v heater unit fitted.
> 
> The little gene is really susceptible to voltage changes even when you have the correct heating element, hence why people do the control mods to try and even some of this out (roasted 150+ kg over a few years to comment on this)
> 
> @genecaffe hopefully you will get this sorted, when you do the Gene is a lovely little roaster that just needs a little assistance to become a great little roaster.
> 
> John


Actually he very probably needs a 220V Gene. If a 230v is too hot in 240 what do you think a 230v will do on 220?

John

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## johnealey

depends on whether you can source a 220v heater in 50hz rather than the 220v 60Hz version only avaailable in the US?

John


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## genecaffe

In realtà, come ha scritto @ Rob1, l'errore è solo mio perché sul sito di vendita ho letto, solo ora, che il modello è per il mercato inglese, ma posso dire che ci siamo scambiati delle e-mail con lui, e gli ho detto che era italiano e sapeva che lo avrebbe mandato in Italia, forse poteva ricordarmi di questa cosa Volt. Ma ripeto, colpa mia, ha fatto il venditore. Rimandalo indietro se il venditore accetta, significa costi di spedizione a mie spese, ma invece di avere una macchina GC che non uso, almeno ricevo parte dei soldi spesi. Da quello che ho letto capisco che non posso usarlo sfruttando appieno la sua potenza anche con qualsiasi mod. È giusto quello che dico?

















Sorry for my trouble on this forum, unfortunately I feel very frustrated and stupid, and thank you very much for the patience, explanations and help you are giving me


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## 7493

ashcroc said:


> I was under the impression when the powers that be decided to standardise the whole of the EU to 230v, they put decided a 10v variance was acceptable so the infrastructure didn't have to change.


I believe the -6% +10% of 230v to be the correct explanation. A typical EC fudge!









UK voltage is mostly somewhere around 240v, here it's nearer 245v.


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## MediumRoastSteam

Rob666 said:


> I believe the -6% +10% of 230v to be the correct explanation. A typical EC fudge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UK voltage is mostly somewhere around 240v, here it's nearer 245v.


Whereas for me, I seldom get 240V. It's usually around 236V.


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## genecaffe

> Il gruppo di riscaldamento da solo ti costerà £ 74 ....
> 
> https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/coffee-roasters-for-sale/coffee-roasters/genecafe-230v-heater-box-cra97- 003A. html
> 
> [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Hai ragione, purtroppo ho riscaldato un errore molto grave, tuttavia, anche un riscaldatore come quello che dici non dovrebbe essere buono perché è ancora alto 230V, invece di 220V. Ma in questo caso dovrei cambiare anche l'alimentatore oltre al riscaldamento? Confuso :: confuso:


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## DavecUK

*If the OP purchased a UK gene with a 240V element and is using it in a 230 or 220V country...yeah it will run a bit cooler...Also there was a change of firmware for the UK machines and I don't know for sure if the same firmware is worldwide now. I still am not sure, because the simply act of looking at the rating sticker on the back has not been done, or a photo posted?*

I see quote about things people think I did. for clarity the story is:

Originally Genes were sold in the UK with the standard 230V heating element....These kept failing and also ran hot in the UK which caused other problems with the Gene. The market effectively died for the roaster, killed off by the use of the wrong heating element. A few years later Genesis wanted to try again and sent me a Gene, it was still too hot and I asked them to make a 240V model, plus some other small changes. They kept telling me our voltage was 230V and I kept explaining to them that it was not....due to the voltage harmonisation fudge..

They finally manufactured a 240V element, I also insisted that the element was lifed for well over 1000 hrs, they actually built one specced to run for 2000 hours. However that isn't a warranty claim, it's just the spec it was manufactured to. This is why, *unless abused*, Gene Cafe 240V heating elements tend to never fail and their life will probably exceed every other component in the roaster. The 240V element runs considerably cooler (when it's on) than the 230V at our voltage...this means it will be on longer and switch less. Remember by cooler I mean instead of perhaps 600C, it might run at 450 or 500C at the wire.

I can't remember, but I think they might make a 100V 110V and 220V element, but not sure about the last. The sheer stupidity of the company (or Hubris), has prevented them from taking my further advice to do only 2 heating elements A 100V and a 200V, using a digital voltage regulator, set so that whichever country a dipswitch is set to prevent the element going over the max design power at that countries voltage. Plus an extra control at the front allowing power regulation as a % 0 - 110% (anything over 100% being overboost in cold weather).

However I sort of moved on from Genesis as there is little interest in me for a company that simply takes no notice of suggestions to significantly improve their products. I modded my CBR1200 roaster as well and sent them details, they also didn't bother with that (spoils the ship for a hapeth o tar). There was some talk of a 500gm model, but I think that may have died on the Vine.....which is a shame as a 500g Gene with power control built in is exactly what the home market needs and could be a relatively easy scale up of the little gene.


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## genecaffe

Non Sono Pratico nel forum e ho potuto INVIARE l'allegato Dallo smartphone non

C'è una possibilità che non è troppo costoso per essere in grado di utilizzare il 100%?

Tre anni fa ho modificato un popper e sono andato avanti con questo, ora che volevo crescere un po 'ho commesso questo errore. A questo punto proverei ad averlo, se possibile e se le mie possibilità mi permettessero, di averlo al 100%.

Può essere? Come?

And they also make a 220V version:

http://genecafe.com/pud/index.php?group_code=pud&category_id=120&p_cate_id=118&m_id=94


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## MediumRoastSteam

genecaffe said:


> Il gruppo di riscaldamento da solo ti costerà £ 74 ....
> 
> https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/coffee-roasters-for-sale/coffee-roasters/genecafe-230v-heater-box-cra97- 003A. html
> 
> [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Hai ragione, purtroppo ho riscaldato un errore molto grave, tuttavia, anche un riscaldatore come quello che dici non dovrebbe essere buono perché è ancora alto 230V, invece di 220V. Ma in questo caso dovrei cambiare anche l'alimentatore oltre al riscaldamento? Confuso :: confuso:
> 
> 
> 
> Escusa mio italiano, non ho parlato fa più di 8 anni, i parlo meglio don chi iscrivo.
> 
> Allora, lo no so si è necessario di cambiare anche il alimentatore. Io hanno due o tre stampi che o fato due mese fa quando lo tengono aperto però non mi ricordo si hai di cambiare.
> 
> Excuse my Italian. It's pretty bad. I'll get back to you.
Click to expand...


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## MediumRoastSteam

There's a component there which reads 240V. I think it's the power supply / transformer.... (top left sort of thing) but not sure if it's necessary to replace if you change the element....


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## genecaffe

> Escusa mio italiano, non ho parlato fa più di 8 anni, io parlo meglio don chi iscrivo.
> 
> Allora, lo so no è necessario di cambiare anche l'alimentatore. Ho dovuto due o tre mesi a causa di un mese fa però aperto non mi ricordo si hai di cambiare.
> 
> Scusa il mio italiano. È piuttosto brutto. Tornerò da te. [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Non è per niente brutto il tuo italiano,
> 
> Thank you, very kind to write in Italian


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## MediumRoastSteam

E una carbonara per la cena. 

Non Como una autentica romana però va bene così


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## genecaffe

> C'è un componente che legge 240V. Penso che sia l'alimentatore / trasformatore .... (in alto a sinistra) ma non sono sicuro che sia necessario sostituire se cambi l'elemento ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Woww MediumRoastSteam , grande, spero che non sia nemmeno per cambiare anche questo. Per ora sto aspettando di confermare che un riscaldatore a 220V può funzionare al 100% con il mio setup E poi devo farlo
> 
> Godetevi il vostro pasto:bene:


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## DavecUK

He can just change the element for a 230V one and reseal the heater box


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## genecaffe

> Può semplicemente cambiare l'elemento per uno 230V e richiudere la scatola del riscaldatore [/ QUOTE]
> 
> Thanks Dave, can you confirm that with a 230V I can follow most of the profiles that I read here? Minute more minute less clearly.
> 
> Last thing because not one from 220V?
> 
> My questions are just to understand better


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## ajohn

If they use a simple scr voltage regulator they might have problems meeting emission tests. Might have to be the zero switching type to meet the regs.

The volts thing is odd. There was an attempt to standardise across the EU. It didn't prove to be a practical option so in real terms all countries voltages as far as I am aware are as they used to be. Being curious I did a bit of a search. :This is from the Bundestag



> <nobr>The values 220/380 Volt can only be used with the standard</nobr><nobr>acceptable tolerances.</nobr><nobr>At the 220-</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>Voltage supply were agreed to deviations from</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>± 10 percent allowed, the operating voltage was allowed between</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>198 volts and 242 volts are.</nobr><nobr>The new nominal voltage of</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>230 volts will last for a transitional period until 2003</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>Tolerance of + 6 / - 10 percent, ie operating voltages between</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>207 volts and 243.8 volts.</nobr><nobr>From 2003, a tole-</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>ration of ± 10 percent.</nobr><nobr>In the next few years will be different</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>the maximum operating voltage so practically not.</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>According to the Association of German Electricity Companies</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>97 percent of all customers already use the new tolerance</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>adhered to.</nobr><nobr>By 1992, the adjustment is 100 percent</nobr>
> 
> <nobr>achieved</nobr>


It seems the +/- 10% never happened even on later attempts.. The +6% - 10% isn't exactly a fudge really. It means that people who need to know what the limits are now know. Believe it or not that is an improvement.

John

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## DavecUK

To original poster get 230V element.

To John, just to keep it simple, nothing changed in the UK for our power supply just words. Same for most countries with a national grid. Sort of has to be that way for technical reasons.


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## genecaffe

I contacted the seller who told me that he will contact Gene Caffè for greater clarity,

but he also told me that he intends to send one 230 volts for free, but wants back the 240V.

It seems very correct, considering that the mistake was mine at the start.

I'll let you know


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## ajohn

DavecUK said:


> He can just change the element for a 230V one and reseal the heater box


 @DavecUK I thought it wasn't possible to just buy the element but did think it aught to be. So ???

John

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## DavecUK

ajohn said:


> @DavecUK I thought it wasn't possible to just buy the element but did think it aught to be. So ???
> 
> John
> 
> -


I mean reseal the heater box where it attaches to the rest of the roaster, otherwise hot air leaks and it can cause damage. you cannot buy just the wire element, you have to buy the heater box


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## ajohn

DavecUK said:


> I mean reseal the heater box where it attaches to the rest of the roaster, otherwise hot air leaks and it can cause damage. you cannot buy just the wire element, you have to buy the heater box


I take it you mean where the heater box fits into the "nozzle". No signs of any need to seal in their video. ( At about 2min in )






I should be able to get back to my Gene later this week. Ordered some shelving to make room for it in my mmmm microscope area. I can't use all of those at the same time so some can be stuck on a shelf.

John

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## tonerei

genecaffe said:


> I contacted the seller who told me that he will contact Gene Caffè for greater clarity,
> 
> but he also told me that he intends to send one 230 volts for free, but wants back the 240V.
> 
> It seems very correct, considering that the mistake was mine at the start.
> 
> I'll let you know


Doesn't surprise me their customer service is excellent. I would reckon it was a genuine mistake sending you the 240v one. I can't explain what has occurred to mine and why but after I fitted the 230v unit temperatures rose on roasts. But after approx a month they have risen further and are now close to the profiles in the manual produced by DavecUK. I think especially after you read Dave's experience with Genesis you have to accept that the Genecafe is a compromise home user solution. I am very pleased with mine and understand that at the price level there is going to be compromises.


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## DavecUK

ajohn said:


> I take it you mean where the heater box fits into the "nozzle". No signs of any need to seal in their video. ( At about 2min in )


I do get fed up restating things just because you have seen a video. I'm stating how it should be done, I don't care how GeneCafe USA do it. Are you actually trying to help this person, or just argue about stuff you don't know too much about, or only know in theory?

1. It's in the service manual produced by Genesis who make the roaster (see below and take the wording with a pinch of salt, it's high temperature RTV, so silicone like in a bathroom won't work)

2. I know what the hell I am talking about and they come sealed from the factory

3. I've done a few heater boxes in my time

4. Genesis don't exactly always know best about their product, I thought I had explained that already.









As you can guess I am running out of patience.


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## ajohn

Patience ?? If some one wanted to replace the heater they may well look at that video as I did. Might I add another suggestion - get the RTV from a motor factors as small tubes of the correct stuff should be available. RTV is wonderful stuff but if overheated it reverts the result is called sand and not all RTV's are equal.

You might guess I can get annoyed too.

John

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## genecaffe

Sto ancora aspettando l'arrivo del nuovo riscaldatore,

spero che arriverà presto:in attesa:


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## MediumRoastSteam

genecaffe said:


> Sto ancora aspettando l'arrivo del nuovo riscaldatore,
> 
> spero che arriverà presto:in attesa:


Let us know how you get on installing it! All the best and good luck!


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## genecaffe

MediumRoastSteam said:


> Let us know how you get on installing it! All the best and good luck!


Of course

Thank you


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## genecaffe

it seems that the first shipment went bankrupt. Next week, they'll send another one. I hope this arrives


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## genecaffe

Finalmente il riscaldatore a 230V è arrivato, i tempi e le temperature corrispondono alla maggior parte dei profili che ho letto.

Le crepe sono chiare e molte, a differenza di prima ne ho sentite poche e isolate,

la pula è consistente ma soprattutto i miei chicchi tostati non hanno più scaglie di pula non staccate.

Finalmente ora posso dire di avere un torrefattore.

Una roba robusta per mia moglie (a lei piacciono nel cappuccino)

e un lotto di 282 grammi di Ethiopia Sidamo 2 ...

in circa 15 minuti ho chiuso l'arrosto, toccando tutte le temperature dei vari profili letti,

il crack era come colpi di mitragliatrice, uno spettacolo,

penso che da questo momento sia iniziata la svolta, tutto ciò di cui ho bisogno ora è la pratica.


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## tonerei

I had problems with my genecafe getting up to high temperatures. On my latest batches have taken to using 200g of green beans and that has changed the characteristics of the roasting. Getting to much higher temperatures that I can relate to the roast profiles in DaveC's manual. Looks like in my case running with lower volumes of beans means it works as expected. I have one more change to make which involves opening it up again and using heat proof sealant on the temp probe housing.


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## MediumRoastSteam

tonerei said:


> I had problems with my genecafe getting up to high temperatures. On my latest batches have taken to using 200g of green beans and that has changed the characteristics of the roasting. Getting to much higher temperatures that I can relate to the roast profiles in DaveC's manual. Looks like in my case running with lower volumes of beans means it works as expected. I have one more change to make which involves opening it up again and using heat proof sealant on the temp probe housing.


I don't have the manual with me anymore, (I sold the roaster) but I am quite certain that in the manual there's an entry which says that, with lower volume of beans, the temperature readings on the display are higher than what's actually inside the chamber. There's an explanation why, but I don't remember of the top of my head.


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## tonerei

MediumRoastSteam said:


> I don't have the manual with me anymore, (I sold the roaster) but I am quite certain that in the manual there's an entry which says that, with lower volume of beans, the temperature readings on the display are higher than what's actually inside the chamber. There's an explanation why, but I don't remember of the top of my head.


I have the manual will go have a read! I hope you are wrong


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## MediumRoastSteam

tonerei said:


> I have the manual will go have a read! I hope you are wrong


I think this was in the "advanced" part of the guide where Dave explains how the roaster works and the optimal load.

It might also be that it's the other way around: less beans in chamber, chamber gets hotter than the actual reading. Anyway, there's a relationship, I just can't remember which way that is.


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## tonerei

You were correct!

To quote * Above a certain point, the more beans you put in the shorter the roasting time

* Below a certain point, the less beans you put in the longer the roasting time.

Briefly seems temp sensor measures air temp leaving roaster. If you have more beans less heat leaves the roaster and is absorbed by the beans. All still confusing for me as I can never get to 240. Can't hear first or second crack. The fan I use in the kitchen makes it impossible for me to determine cracks. I suspect there is a voltage issue which is impacting also. I think I am getting decent enough roasts regardless of all this and the roast times (going by colour) fall into the time frames outlined in the manual.


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## Rob1

You're trying to get to 240?


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## tonerei

Is that bad?







The manual suggest that for roasts. I had issues getting above 200 and ended up with a 230v board. With 250g I would now get it up to possibly 215 sometimes nearly 220. Dropping the amount of beans I am hitting the late 220's near the end of the roast. Dave's manual suggests one should be able to get it to very high temps within 9 mins.



Rob1 said:


> You're trying to get to 240?


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## MediumRoastSteam

tonerei said:


> Is that bad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The manual suggest that for roasts. I had issues getting above 200 and ended up with a 230v board.


Are you in the UK? I had mine for a year or so and always for sure went over 200C. Mine was a 240V version, and my voltage was always around 234 - 236V. When the planets aligned and people turned their kettles and ovens off, I would then get 239V.


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## tonerei

Dublin and the planets aligning think I get







We have had a plethora of power issues even though in the centre of Dublin it seems the kit in our area is old and with a lot of multiple flats in houses the tea time thing can be funny. There is a thread somewhere on my issues! I got the error code 04 I think intermittently then it became a pita. Changed out temp sensors and fan and then the 240v board. Bella have been great it wasn't worth the effort sending the machine back and my gut feeling is local power is causing the prob if it is a prob. Strangely when I had the machine first of all it reached into the 230's and behaved as per Dave's manual. Some day I will try it elsewhere just out of curiosity.


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## Batian

Using one of these will answer your 'local power' questions.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Energy-Cost-Meter-Plug-In-Monitor-Power-Use-Lower-Electricity-Bills-Watt-KWH-Amp/281793367903?hash=item419c318f5f:g:X8wAAOSwIABcJY99

Other brands/prices/specs available, so make sure the one you buy is suitable for the Gene's power draw!


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## Rob1

tonerei said:


> Is that bad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The manual suggest that for roasts. I had issues getting above 200 and ended up with a 230v board. With 250g I would now get it up to possibly 215 sometimes nearly 220. Dropping the amount of beans I am hitting the late 220's near the end of the roast. Dave's manual suggests one should be able to get it to very high temps within 9 mins.


I don't remember that part. I vaguely remember something about timing how long it takes to heat with an empty drum to check if your element is working properly. I can't even get 240c in 9 minutes and I run it with 245v-250v usually closer to 250.


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## Batian

tonerei said:


> All still confusing for me as I can never get to 240. Can't hear first or second crack. The fan I use in the kitchen makes it impossible for me to determine cracks. I suspect there is a voltage issue which is impacting also. I think I am getting decent enough roasts regardless of all this and the roast times (going by colour) fall into the time frames outlined in the manual.


Have you tried using a cardboard tube 'hearing aid' (ex kitchen foil etc) or engineers stethoscope?

Care needed near revolving drum. I found a good place to listen is the shoulder of the chaff box.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Stethoscope-Automotive-Stethoscope-Diagnostic-Tool-For-Engines-Gearbo/151664886433?hash=item234fee82a1:g:sHwAAOSwrklVQL08


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## tonerei

Thanks lads I will investigate the 'hearing aid'







TBH happy with the roasts so have been lazy.

On the other posts re temps I sort of came to the view that the gene is hit and miss on the exact temps


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## tonerei

Finally got my plug in Volt reader. Two roasts today and it fluctuates between 221-225v. First roast never got over 209c whilst second reached close to 217c but I ended it at that point. Roasts are taking 16mins or maybe 30 seconds longer. Any longer and they are very darkly roasted i.e too much close to burnt and beans become to oily.

update: Seeing voltages now in the 214-220 range. I suspect this is possibly contributing to my problem.

One observation is when I for instance roast 3 or 4 batches the later roasts get hotter or show higher temps on the display. Wondering is this maybe because by the third roast there would be a bit of chaff in the waste port maybe restricting air flow? Basically temps start getting closer and sometimes as high as 220C.

I assume the dimmer mod will not give me any more control over this given the voltages?

Another dumbo question I have a power inspired regenerator. Tempted to give this a try to see if it miraculously raises the voltage getting to the Gene


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