# Super Jolly Mod



## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Just thought I'd post a picture of my newly modded Mazzer Super Jolly all very kindly done by the Reverend Gary ****.









The bottom vanes were wound down to go metal on metal (glad Gary was doing this) and a used spice tub wrapped in aluminium foil for the central column in the middle of the doser. I'm naming it "The Masala Dosa mod".











































The latter was an idea nicked from Xpeno. Works really well in conjunction with a camera hood and brush. I'm getting pretty much zero retention.

Really pleased with the SJ, many thank to Gary for all of his help and also to Fatboyslim for selling it to me.









B*gger....I've just re-read a text that Gary sent me and it was a tub of Waitrose baking powder that he used, which ruins my mod title...what the heck I'm sticking with it! It's a masala doser mod!


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Nice one Clive - stick with Masala Dosa mod have you patented it??


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## kikapu (Nov 18, 2012)

The Systemic Kid said:


> Nice one Clive - stick with Masala Dosa mod have you patented it??


Hope not cause I am going to nick that idea!!


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Comes with free with self disassemble-protocol TM


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

The Systemic Kid said:


> Nice one Clive - stick with Masala Dosa mod have you patented it??


Thanks Patrick. I only came up with the name (about 10 seconds before posting this) although I think Xpeno and Gary might hunt me down if I did.


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

garydyke1 said:


> Comes with free with self disassemble-protocol TM


Is that Ikea-speak for flat pack assembly??


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## fatboyslim (Sep 29, 2011)

Bit tearful at seeing my old baby in someone else's hands but I know you'll treat her well Clive (SJs are girls aren't they?).

Mod looks great, I always meant to sort out the doser a bit better but never had the time. Its been great chatting with you about the pointy finger section, spring loaded do dar and the whatsit!


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

fatboyslim said:


> Bit tearful at seeing my old baby in someone else's hands but I know you'll treat her well Clive (SJs are girls aren't they?).
> 
> Mod looks great, I always meant to sort out the doser a bit better but never had the time. Its been great chatting with you about the pointy finger section, spring loaded do dar and the whatsit!


Ha ha ha...I'm not sure about grinder sexuality but you do get very attached to them. I was sad to see my Mignon go.

I'm sure it won't be the last conversation about the thing that's next to the bit that connects to the big brass cog...







cheers Mark


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## Jason1wood (Jun 1, 2012)

Clive, I have a Mazzer Mini coming my way and love the look of your hopper, can I ask what it is and how it was done please.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

The column is an up turned plastic tin of baking powder with the central bolt going through the lid and then bolted on. The rest of the tin is wrapped in aluminium tape and the just pushes onto the upturned lid.










As the Mazzer mini is smaller, you might need a smaller tin/tub. Like one for pepper.

If it's a CC Mazzer then I'm guessing it's probably been modded for a clean sweep using cards


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

garydyke1 said:


> Comes with free with self disassemble-protocol TM


LOL...Touch wood it hasn't disassembled it's self since. Basically after the mod was done the doser bolt decided to slowly unwind it's self.

The problem seemed to hinge on this bolt / lynch pin.


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## GS11 (Feb 20, 2013)

urbanbumpkin said:


>


Grind quality is looking great Clive.....A big improvement on the Mignon


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

GS11 said:


> Grind quality is looking great Clive.....A big improvement on the Mignon


Thanks Graham. It certainly is. I just need to improve my technique and try and make less mess







.

If I tamp straight onto the mound I get dead spots on about half of my shots nearly always in the middle of the basket.

I'm using a TORR flat to convex tamper and am wondering if that's not helping (as the dead spot seems to be where the flat part of the tamper is. I might try nutating or using a flat to see if it makes any difference.


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Try distributing in circular motion leaving in a slight mound, centre approx 2-3mm higher than edges


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## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

urbanbumpkin said:


> Thanks Graham. It certainly is. I just need to improve my technique and try and make less mess
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A little bit of nutating sorted out any dead spots for me. I just rested the weight of the tamp straight onto the ground coffee mound and then nutate. No faffing about.

Lovely mod there Clive - Gary's worked some magic.


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

urbanbumpkin said:


> LOL...Touch wood it hasn't disassembled it's self since. Basically after the mod was done the doser bolt decided to slowly unwind it's self.
> 
> The problem seemed to hinge on this bolt / lynch pin.


Did it need another slight tap in?


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Looking great Clive! Glad the mods are working well for you, from the picture the grinds are looking really nice









Regarding the split-pin and the bolt head, I would be tempted to get a small piece of card or plastic and wedge it in-between the two, that should stop any unwanted movement in the mech.

Those Waitrose tubs are perfect for this task, it is however slightly annoying that yours looks nicer than mine









Spence


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Also I was getting dead spots with the plan to convex and the trick that worked for me was to ensure that you didn't level off the mound too much. Leave a little mound in the middle and then when you tamp it seems to just work. Nutating may also help.

Spence


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Xpenno said:


> Looking great Clive! Glad the mods are working well for you, from the picture the grinds are looking really nice
> 
> 
> 
> ...


LOL...I'm sure yours looks just as good.

I might have another look at the pin thing again and give it a go. Thanks for the suggestion.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

garydyke1 said:


> Did it need another slight tap in?


I didn't touch the pin, unless I accidentally pushed it in. The only the only thing I did was to tighten the bolt. The photo was taken after I'd done this.

Should the pin be pushed through further into the cog?


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

No, the pin should be like this


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

That how my royal looks and that pic is of an SJ I just found so it seems that they should be the same.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

The pin sits flush against the bolt head to stop that rotating and also locks that bottom doser vein in place.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thanks Spence


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## fatboyslim (Sep 29, 2011)

That pin might be a bit shorter than the average pin though. I seem to remember tapping it a bit further down than the level of the bolt.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

fatboyslim said:


> That pin might be a bit shorter than the average pin though. I seem to remember tapping it a bit further down than the level of the bolt.


Thanks Mark, I said we'd end up talking cogs and widgets again


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

It looks like someone has changed the bolt ? The head of the bolt in one photo appears smaller than in the other photo. The flat on the bolt head should be close to the "roll pin" hole. COGS & WIDGETTS


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

That bolt gas definitely been changed at some point.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Just an update on this after several months fine service without issue I'm getting the occasional slip from the doser again.










I picked up a brand new Mazzer SJ doser bolt a few months ago (many thanks to Callum).

The plan being to use the new bolt and fit it so that its metal on metal an the pin fits snuggly against the bolt and doesn't unwind.

However the new bolt is exactly the same size head as the old one! WTF! Any ideas? Different size cog on older models?

So I'm looking for a solution that will keep the bits locked together to stop unwinding and also a way of wedging the bolt against the pin.

I was thinking of seeing if I could pick up a slightly longer split pin from somewhere any suggestions?

On the wedging side I've thought of wrapping in wire around the bold head or wedging with a thin piece of plastic/metal and holding in place with a dab of glue.

All suggestions welcome.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

I'd just use electrical tape on the bolt head to make it slightly larger.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

It won't take much of an increase in size to stop it rotating. You could just roll some up and wedge it between the two if you wanted.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

How far into the brass cog does the pin go? Hard to tell from the pic. If it's too far in then the head of the bolt could slip over it.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Xpenno said:


> How far into the brass cog does the pin go? Hard to tell from the pic. If it's too far in then the head of the bolt could slip over it.


I'll have to pull it out/ push it through to confirm, although from memory I seem to remember a longer pin would be better.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Xpenno said:


> How far into the brass cog does the pin go? Hard to tell from the pic. If it's too far in then the head of the bolt could slip over it.


Had a look at this tonight Split pin is 10.11mm long, 3.1mm wide.


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## Olliehulla (Feb 26, 2013)

What about screwing a small pan head screw into the roll pin seeing as it's hollow ? Not sure if that would then be too big and foul on anything else...?


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## jj_glos (Dec 27, 2014)

I've recently picked up a SJ, although I'm currently running it stock to make sure all is okay before I start modding. I've been looking at all the various mods, mine is an auto so I'll be removing those switches etc. and then looking towards the dosing chamber (lens hood is on the way). One question though, I'm using a tamper to stop pop corning but I'm always seeing a stubborn bean that refuses to make its way through the burrs. Is there a trick to getting the dose through? I've tried wobbling, pulsing, brushing down etc. but it can take a while to get that last bean through. I'm trying to minimise any retention, so it's not a good start to have beans hanging up right at the start


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

I use the plastic tamper that comes this a Gaggia Classic. I think a 57mm tamper works best in the throat of an SJ. I always get a stray bean though.

My routine is to run the grinder till it goes quieter, switch off the grinder, nutate the grinder tamper which knocks any beans into the burrs and slows the burrs down.

Once stopped I brush out the throat of the SJ, replace tamper and grind the last bit.

I then use a lens hood with a lid to blow the grinds through and brush out the Doser.

Hope that makes sense.

That stray bean always seems to be in the same place!


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