# Plumbing in



## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

I'm hopefully going to be plumbing in this weekend. Would like to get some of the parts in advance if possible so everything is good to go.

Want to put a prv in - how do I know what size I need? Should this match the hose I my machine? What do I need to run the connection from the cold pipe? Is there a list of 'standard' parts anyone could suggest?


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Are you installing a T in an existing cold pipe? I ran mine out from my washing machine connection so that I didn't have to start cutting pipes... Do you have a photo of the installation zone?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

I'll have a photo under the hood on Friday, should really just be a bit more patient!










Going to be setting up to the left of the sink so washing machine connections are nearby if that makes it easier.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jeebsy i have the valve that i used previously could cut you a wee deal if you want?


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

The Brewtus hose is probably 3/8" bsp (female), so you'll need a 3/8 x 3/4 inch, or 3/8 x 1/2 inch adaptor to connect to the washing machine cold water T-valve.

Any necessary hose extension can be either 3/8" braided steel (like the Brewtus) or small bore plastic tubing with "John Guest" push-fit connectors.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> jeebsy i have the valve that i used previously could cut you a wee deal if you want?


Yes please Mr Chap, would you be able to post this week?



espressotechno said:


> The Brewtus hose is probably 3/8" bsp (female), so you'll need a 3/8 x 3/4 inch, or 3/8 x 1/2 inch adaptor to connect to the washing machine cold water T-valve.
> 
> Any necessary hose extension can be either 3/8" braided steel (like the Brewtus) or small bore plastic tubing with "John Guest" push-fit connectors.


Are these widely available? If so can just pick them up once I get a better look. Will there be a t on the washing machine already?


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

http://www.coffeehit.co.uk/metal-braided-hose-1-5m-3-8-x-3-4


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Cheers. Looks like screwfix have similar stuff: http://m.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/compression-hoses/cat831678 - but cc might have a goody bag for me


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## Mouse (Feb 28, 2014)

I picked up all the bits at Toolstation Jeebsy so give them a try before Screwfix, they usually work out cheaper as well.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Mouse said:


> I picked up all the bits at Toolstation Jeebsy so give them a try before Screwfix, they usually work out cheaper as well.


Hadn't heard of them before, cheers..


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Mouse said:


> I picked up all the bits at Toolstation Jeebsy so give them a try before Screwfix, they usually work out cheaper as well.


Screwfix didn't have a clue when I went in there, they just looked at me blankly. I'd expect the same level of product knowledge as Argos....


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## Spazbarista (Dec 6, 2011)

Prv will probably have A 22mm brass compression fitting with a 15mm reducer. You'll need a sort section of copper 22mm pipe to fit to both ends. Then a suitable fitting(s) on each of the other ends to connect to your machine hose and your water line.

I needed 11 separate fittings for mine.

Go plastic pipe and speedfit push fittings as much as you xan


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Think the chap is sorting me out with the bits he used to plumb the machine in when he had it (thank God. 11 bits would be beyond me)


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

View attachment 7948


View attachment 7947


Here's what's under my sink. The washing machine runs off the grey pipe in the bottom pic with the waste coming in the top right grey pipe in the top pic.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Guessing I put a y piece in on the grey pipe at the bottom right? What's the best way to get the drip tray connected?


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Yup, Y off the brass connection, re-connect the grey hose and run the other spur to your machine. Re the drip tray you could possibly shorten the downpipe from the sink and add a y joint in there and connect the drainage hose to that.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Something similar to this










Obviously you'd point the drainage part upwards


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

The grey pipe in the top pic is the washing maching waste - so basically make that a y input?

In the bottom pic, the drainage bit is being used for the overflow from my sink


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

jeebsy said:


> The grey pipe in the top pic is the washing maching waste - so basically make that a y input?


Ah got you, yeah that sounds about right.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Most plumbing supplies outlets don't know much about 3/8" bsp connectors & adaptors.

I notice that you're in Birmingham - are you near to Fracino ? They will be able to supply 3/8" bsp stuff.......


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Jeebsy as xpenno said remove the cold supply for M/mc install the "Y" adaptor and use one for coffee M/ch and one for W/mc.

For the waste connection you can buy a piece for a "space saver" kit this is like your existing W/mc waste connection but with two arms on, suit coffee M/ch and W/mc .Look at MULTIQUICK

waste fittings (other companies make them as well) The nd is step tapered so you just cut off to suit size required.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Couldn't find that bit - the guy in B&Q tried to sell me a new trap with an extension but was scpetical so went to toolstation - girl there was nice enough but beyond useless. Phoned el carajillo who kindly gave me some advice and said that although you could get the part fitting a new trap was probably the easiest thing to do.

View attachment 7990


I'm shit scared of any sort of plumbing but this was dead easy to fit - the top pipe was adjustable so no messing about. The waste pipe is now fitted and draining fine. The inlet should be fitted tomorrow when the bits arrive from CC in the post. Don't want to jinx it but gone OK so far (apart from when I undid the trap and some water leaked, so I poured it down the sink).

Friday night I had four hours sleep, five last night and i'm on for about four tonight. Was still fannying about under the sink with waste pipes at 1am though. Moving house is pish!


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

If I can help just give me a bell mate.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Cheers for the offer - was pretty easy so hopefully should be sorted.

Bit of a disaster though - e61 lever got moved to on position at some point but I didn't notice because the machine wasn't on. It came on the timer this morning and must have run dry for over an hour before I got up.

Turned it off immediately but guessing it's probably fooked?


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Oh balls! Was the machine still running or had it cut out? The element could be dead but you'll have to run it and see if it heats or get a meter on the terminals.


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Just remembered it's a Rotary. Was the pump still running when you got up?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Was still running yeah. Let it cool down for a bit then turned it on and ran it again - boiler filled up, water started coming out the group and it made a funny noise but the noise has stopped now and it seems to be running ok. Not sure if the pump would need checked after that?


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

If it's all behaving normally then I'd say you're OK & got lucky. Just keep an eye on it and if it starts playing funny buggers then worry about it!


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Just read a thread on home barista where someone's machine ran dry for four minutes and they thought they was pretty bad, this could be something else!

I'll make a couple of shots tonight and see how it goes.


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

I take it the boiler warmed up when you ran it again?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

When I turned it back on pid read ~60 and it got back up to mid 80s pretty quick. Presume that shows its heating up?


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Sounds like it yeah. Keep us posted once you've pulled a few shots later!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

jeebsy said:


> Couldn't find that bit - the guy in B&Q tried to sell me a new trap with an extension but was scpetical so went to toolstation - girl there was nice enough but beyond useless. Phoned el carajillo who kindly gave me some advice and said that although you could get the part fitting a new trap was probably the easiest thing to do.
> 
> View attachment 7990
> 
> ...


I forget the number of times I have taken a trap off then reached up and emptied it into the sink while underneath!! (Pavlov dog syndrome)


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## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

El carajillo said:


> I forget the number of times I have taken a trap off then reached up and emptied it into the sink while underneath!! (Pavlov dog syndrome)


Me too! And you feel such a tool. Just shows how programmed we are.


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

I took the trap off last year to clean. Told the mrs dont run the tap several times so she took it in which she did, but whilst in the garden cleaning out the trap she decided to spin the washing machine which had been on rinse hold....i give up!


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Pulled a shot and steamed 2 jugs of milk tonight with no issues. Was making the slightly strange noise while heating up but stopped after. Might have been lucky.


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## bignorry (Mar 19, 2013)

A little plumbers tip put a basin under trap and then when you remove trap empty into this and if you put any water down sink the basin catches it. Same for supply pipes let's you empty them.

Glad all seems ok now.


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## Barry Cook (Feb 14, 2012)

Assuming that admin don't mind me making a suggestion, I've used Abbeychart for the plumbing connections in my espresso machine in the shop. I'm afraid regular plumbing merchants are rubbish with coffee machine plumbing as they're fitted with "old fashioned" imperial fittings whereas plumb merchants tend to deal specifically with modern metric fittings.

PS always worth going for John Guest push-fit fittings - very reliable and easy to disconnect if you need to.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Well, it's done. Deeply distrustful of it but it's done. The box of tricks arrived from Dave today.





































The thread on the side of the prv was quite short so used a couple of spacers to make sure it fitted tight. The attractive bit of material round it is so I can grab it from under the worktop.

Let the lever just past the middle and the manometer shows two bar with a nice wee flow out it.

Waste drains pretty slow but it drains. Hard to keep the pipe going straight down the whole way but the out is lower than the inlet.

If it looks like I've done anything completely daft let me know as will be trying the washing out for the first time later and could do without a flood.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Tiny, tiny bit of water under the valve this morning. Should the connections on that have been PTFEd?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

jeebsy said:


> Tiny, tiny bit of water under the valve this morning. Should the connections on that have been PTFEd?


No PTFE not needed, Shut off water and drain into receptacle .Undo nut remove the rubber washer and inspect for nick's or any damage.(was this the connection on the valve you had off Dave) i.e has it been used before ? if so you need to obtain some new sealing washers (DIY store).If washer is OK check for burrs or rough spots on valve.

Reassemble but do not over tighten, just firmly.

If possible fix the pump / pipework with clips,as movement can cause the joints to weep slightly.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Is it ok to use two washers to get better fit due to short thread on valve? Suspect I may have over tightened last night, cranked them pretty hard


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

jeebsy said:


> Is it ok to use two washers to get better fit due to short thread on valve? Suspect I may have over tightened last night, cranked them pretty hard


As long as there is enough thread left inside the nut it will be ok. Check by measuring length of thread on valve and length of thread inside nut with two washers in. Let me know to night if unsure.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Tidied it up using pushfit. Got over my scepticism about it.

Was using the kitchen roll as a highly scientific leak test. The tap off the y needed a couple of washers but seems sound now.


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

How's this all working man?

I'd suggest firing a tap / isolator on the feed to the expobar so you can d/c without shutting all the water off if need be.


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