# Silvia not heating



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

Hi

Picked up a second hand Silvia today. Looked like a piece of do-do but the price was right so I thought ' why not'.

Apart from being extremely dirty its come up pretty well after an external case clean and looks in good nick. I can't back flush as yet as no portafilter. The pump and steam work, the only issue is that boiler is not heating. I have tried the rheostat reset but no joy. Any ideas?

Also it looks quite old, any idea the year?


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

When you say you have steam but the boiler does not heat up, I presume you mean you have water through the steam wand ??

Not heating up probably means boiler element kaput. Older models are more difficult to change heating element on.

You need a teat meter to do some checks first.


----------



## oursus (Jun 5, 2015)

2007, either stat or element done.


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

El carajillo said:


> When you say you have steam but the boiler does not heat up, I presume you mean you have water through the steam wand ??
> 
> Not heating up probably means boiler element kaput. Older models are more difficult to change heating element on.
> 
> You need a teat meter to do some checks first.


Sorry, water coming from the steam wand but not heating.


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

oursus said:


> 2007, either stat or element done.


I'll try changing the stat. To be honest the machine cost me 99p so I was surprised it even turned on.


----------



## oursus (Jun 5, 2015)

maths15 said:


> I'll try changing the stat. To be honest the machine cost me 99p so I was surprised it even turned on.


It would stand a new boiler & portafilter at that


----------



## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

Silvers are notorious for blowing the heating elements .....it is bound to be that


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

Cheers for the advice, I'll have to see if the price is right as to be honest I don't want the machine for my own use and the cost will quickly mount and may not be worth my time and effort. Bear in mind I need to get a couple of replace feet, portafilter and head gasket at the very least it can get out of control. 99p then turns in £100.


----------



## oursus (Jun 5, 2015)

In which case I shall offer you the profitable sum of £1.00 (plus shipping, of course)


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

oursus said:


> In which case I shall offer you the profitable sum of £1.00 (plus shipping, of course)


Ha! Always worth a go.


----------



## oursus (Jun 5, 2015)

maths15 said:


> Ha! Always worth a go.


----------



## UbiquitousPhoton (Mar 7, 2016)

I would need to see the front in order to determine its provenance (this was where the main changes were)

I would agree on the heating element (so long as the wiring has no obvious nasties/melts/burns amongst it. Unfortunately in the older Silvias some bright spark thought it would be a good idea to include the heating element as part of the boiler (its welded in) so this would mean a new boiler, which is not cheap (mind, not particularly expensive either, but if 100 is a lot...) and not the simplest thing to fit, as you basically have to take it to bits.

Is the boiler light on at all?


----------



## oursus (Jun 5, 2015)

It's an 07... It says on the manuf plate


----------



## UbiquitousPhoton (Mar 7, 2016)

*ahem* ... just checking!


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

UbiquitousPhoton said:


> I would need to see the front in order to determine its provenance (this was where the main changes were)
> 
> I would agree on the heating element (so long as the wiring has no obvious nasties/melts/burns amongst it. Unfortunately in the older Silvias some bright spark thought it would be a good idea to include the heating element as part of the boiler (its welded in) so this would mean a new boiler, which is not cheap (mind, not particularly expensive either, but if 100 is a lot...) and not the simplest thing to fit, as you basically have to take it to bits.
> 
> Is the boiler light on at all?


Hi. If I was going to use it myself then I'd been fine with getting a new boiler but not sure if I would sell it at a loss after the work. Then again I'd like to tinker around with it too. Need to run a meter over it but a bit busy for a few days so may have to wait.

By the boiler light do you mean the large orange light next to the power switch? If so then no, not on.


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

Ok. So got a multi meter on the unit. Used this as a guide and all seem to pass.

http://coffeegeek.com/forums/espresso/machines/312139

Plug the machine in and low and behold the large organe light comes on and starts to heat. Back of the net!

It's getting warm....

Plug Circuits trip.

I am now starting to get out of my comfort zone. I rember the frezzbie and the sub station public information film.

Armed with my trusty multi meter what could you suggest?

btw I gave the thermostat reset button a good press so maybe that's why it started up again. ill be using an rcd from now on.


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Unplug , examine all wiring connections for signs of burning /scorching. Disconnect terminals from re-settable stat when the button has been pushed in (reset) then use meter to check resistance across the terminals, should be negligible. Remove cables from boiler and check resistance across them and note, Then check for resistance between each terminal and the boiler case note result , then post findings.

I think it is probably the boiler element:confused:


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

Hi

I am starting to think it's the boiler element too. But want to exhaust all others first before replacing. I'll try all the above, one question, what ohm setting should I mount the multi meter on?

No sign of burning and no smell either. So I'm taking that as a good sign.

Thanks


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

maths15 said:


> Hi
> 
> I am starting to think it's the boiler element too. But want to exhaust all others first before replacing. I'll try all the above, one question, what ohm setting should I mount the multi meter on?
> 
> ...


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

Cheers that will be 20M ohms


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

El carajillo said:


> Unplug , examine all wiring connections for signs of burning /scorching. Disconnect terminals from re-settable stat when the button has been pushed in (reset) then use meter to check resistance across the terminals, should be negligible. Remove cables from boiler and check resistance across them and note, Then check for resistance between each terminal and the boiler case note result , then post findings.
> 
> I think it is probably the boiler element:confused:


Ok, so the readings are

Reset Stat: 0.00

Boiler terms: 0.00

Right and Left boiler terms to case: starts at 12 and drops to around 0.05.

I popped an rcd between the unit and the mains this time. Turned it on and tripped after a couple of minutes. Turned it in again but with the steam switch flicked on. This time it didn't trip after a few minute but hot water was being sent back to the resivour.

Knackered coil?


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The stat should read app zero ohms. The boiler terminals should give a steady reading of app 8 ohms

Boiler terminal to case should read zero. Try this with the meter set to a higher setting


----------



## maths15 (Nov 25, 2012)

El carajillo said:


> The stat should read app zero ohms. The boiler terminals should give a steady reading of app 8 ohms
> 
> Boiler terminal to case should read zero. Try this with the meter set to a higher setting


So, on the last readings I had the meter sent to the highest on 20m ohms, the readings below are at 200ohms.

Boiler term to boiler term 47

Both boiler terms to case. 1

Btw, thanks for you help on this, it's really appreciated.


----------

