# Mazzer Royal single dosing mods - safety hopper and autodosing removal



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Hi All.

Big thanks to @jimbojohn55 and @coffeechap for advising me to go for the Royal flush on deciding to upgrade from my Rossi.




























I picked up a nice one with new ti burrs last night.










I've only taken the feet off to have a quick look at the circuits in order to remove the hopper safety switch and doser switch wires. Are these obvious from this picture?

















There are a lot more wires from when I sorted my Rossi with the same and less threads on modding Royals hence sorry for asking some Newbie Mazzer questions.

I think I will go with the Octapus funnel mod in due course, I hear of a doser clean sweep mod, is this the same as those done for SJs?

Thanks in advance on any advice before I take it apart to give it a good clean tonight.


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

yep same sweeper mod as the SJ if you stick with the doser, as for wiring have a look at my pimp my royal thread - wires are same as

looks in great condition - welcome to 83mm ti burr town, worth checking alignment as well









interested to hear if you find a taste difference


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> yep same sweeper mod as the SJ if you stick with the doser, as for wiring have a look at my pimp my royal thread - wires are same as
> 
> looks in great condition - welcome to 83mm ti burr town worth checking alignment well
> 
> ...


Thanks all sorted. I just popped the grey wire in with the browns rather than adding bridges. Simples.

What's the consensus on the Octopus funnel vs doser for single dosing? It looks a big space to fill behind where the doser goes.

My Tamper fits perfectly in the neck of the hopper to stop popcorning. Is the camera hood mod worth it? If so what size do people use for the Royal?

Thanks


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

the octopus ball funnel is worth doing, but you will need to fill the space behind the funnel with a plate of some sorts, the camera hood mod works but i prefer to single dose so just use a wooden stopper - I'm looking at something else using a central core and 120g weight but its a way off yet


----------



## bronc (Dec 10, 2012)

The camera lens hood mod is totally worth it. Just get a second doser lid and use it to puff out the grinds from the chute. It makes single dosing even easier (no need to brush out grinds from the chute).


----------



## Leoluo (Apr 21, 2017)

For the auto dosing removal , I assume the diagram is the same as this. Just disconnect the 'lower micro switch'

https://goo.gl/images/j54MV3

I have also added a timer relay for £35 from RS. Others get the auber from Us , which for me is a pain because you need to add the switches as well

Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Ok so done the octopus funnel, just need to sand it down good and proper, but falls nicely with the low rpm. I still get a lot in the shoot sticking so going to do the lens hood.

Is this the right one for a Royal? http:// https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271395562751

Issue is I use my 58mm tamper as a weight to the beans. Any lens hood that could fit this in a Royal too.

Thanks


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Badgerman said:


> Ok so done the octopus funnel, just need to sand it down good and proper, but falls nicely with the low rpm. I still get a lot in the shoot sticking so going to do the lens hood.
> 
> Is this the right one for a Royal? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271395562751
> 
> ...


Yep that's the one but you will need a different weight or 57mm tamper or just try single dosing and brush out the chute with a pastry brush then run the grinder again for just a moment and the rest of the grind in the chamber will come out.

I don't use a weight, just a lid - but I'm looking into a central spindle and weight thing to try out in the long term


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Yep that's the one but you will need a different weight or 57mm tamper or just try single dosing and brush out the chute with a pastry brush then run the grinder again for just a moment and the rest of the grind in the chamber will come out.
> 
> I don't use a weight, just a lid - but I'm looking into a central spindle and weight thing to try out in the long term


Brill thanks @jimbojohn55. Will get it then. How do you stop popcorning with a lens's hood?

What do people use as lens hood lids? Seen custard powder to Lego as options!


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Badgerman said:


> Brill thanks @jimbojohn55. Will get it then. How do you stop popcorning with a lens's hood?
> 
> What do people use as lens hood lids? Seen custard powder to Lego as options!


Buy a lathe


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Buy a lathe


Ha. Need a man shed first!


----------



## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Buy a lathe


Would have to be a veey small lathe to use it as a lid!


----------



## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

Or buy a compressor and use an airline to blow it all out.







15bar and 10,000 cubic metres a second should do it. A small lathe sitting on top of the grinder might be difficult to mount.

Different model Mazzer grinder and doserless but I am using a lens hood at the moment and weighing beans in. I use a weight over the beans which does stop a lot of the popcorning when they are used like this. Only problem is that after the beans seem to have been ground there will be some smallish fraction of a gram on the ledge the weight sits on so have to remove and brush those in. The few bits take a fraction of a second to grind then puff with the grinder running. The weight sits low enough to allow the puffer to still function. I just cover the lens hood with my hand.







Then brush out the grinds in the outlet. If that isn't done they build up. If the grill on the outlet isn't removed lots get trapped over time and may pop out. Result - most of the time what went in matches what comes out and some within 0.1g. For some reason the first one in the morning may be 0.2g low and output changes a bit when the setting is changed.

A lot of faffing about. Some one on here uses a tube hopper with a weight on top of the beans. If it works this seems to be a better idea but the grill will need replacing and some grinds wasted each day to get rid of stale ones. That is what I am going to try next. Then I should be able to use the timer to set the dose.

John

-


----------



## les24preludes (Dec 30, 2017)

Speaking of lens hoods, I got the recommended wide angle one for my SJ. You take out the metal ring and push it on over the throat. However, I don't find this the best solution because:

- it's quite floppy and doesn't give you a good puff

- it doesn't spring back to open after you push it down, it stays down

- you can't easily get your whole palm over it so it's airtight.

Only advantage I can see is it's wider so easier to pour beans in.

My preferred solution for the SJ which has a 60mm inside diameter to the throat is to use a 49mm wide angle lens hood. The rubber part is 74mm at the top and 60mm at the bottom where it fits over the metal ring. So it pushes nicely inside the throat, and being rubber is airtight. Advantages are

- you can fit your palm comfortably over it

- it's more robust and automatically springs back to open so you can puff a few times

- it gives a better puff.

Only disadvantage is it's narrower, but since it works a lot better I'm not bothered. My own one is just marked Japan, no make. I believe Kood do one new but there are loads of second hand collapsible rubber hoods about. You want the wide angle one - the standard one is just 67mm wide at the top. It no doubt works, just a bit narrower, and haven't tried it. I also believe the 52mm wide angle could work. The crucial bit is making sure the OD of the rubber bit is 60mm at the bottom. You really need a guy with a calipers to check.

The above is for the Super Jolly. Just scale it up for a wider throat, but the principle is the same - the hood goes inside the throat together with its ring, not outside.


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Hi All. Deciding what to do next on my Royal. I have got a quote from local garage of around £45+VAT to strip the shell and powder coat. It's been painted (badly) as per pics. Will this get the smooth finish or anything else I or they need to do?

I was hoping for gloss black coat (to match my bread and smoothie maker) is this ok wear/dust wise or would Matt black be hardier.

I have not taken the case off from memory when I did the above. Any tips?

Thanks


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Firstly be careful how they remove the paint, as if they shot blast it the case will suffer some putting! Gloss black will be fine and it looks so much nicer when done correctly. I guess you already know how to get the motor out?


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

coffeechap said:


> Firstly be careful how they remove the paint, as if they shot blast it the case will suffer some putting! Gloss black will be fine and it looks so much nicer when done correctly. I guess you already know how to get the motor out?


They said they would chemically strip to bare metal. I guess they are used to repairing damage (on alloys) if there is under the spray paint.



















I took it apart last year to rewire so will search on here how to remove case. Might have a practice before commit with garage.


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

It's easy to get it apart and to can still use it out of the case! The chemical strip is perfect and should get rid of the gouges as they don't usually get deep enough to Damage the metal, however if the garage are used to doing wheels they should be able to fill them easily enough


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Great thanks. Will take it apart this weekend and if ok drop it in next week.

I was also looking at the Auber timer as per a few threads, but not sure why this would be a lot better for my set up.

I weigh ~37gm of beans and grind the lot into a ramekin, puff and brush it all. I then weigh out 18.0g into my portafiller with Norbin funnel and pull a shot. I then clean portafiller and weigh out 18.0g for second cup and wash up 1gm or so of coffee from ramekin. If I am always doing 2 cups what's the benefit of a timer that you need to re-weigh to get it accurate for pulling and change timer as beans change? Or am I missing a trick for single dosing timer?

Thanks


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

The auber tuner is superfluous if you are single dosing, save your money. They come into their own if you are running a hopper with beans in it


----------



## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

I've got an auber fitted to mine with a bean hopper. You do have to change the timing every time you adjust the grind or change the bean. But once it's dialled in its brilliant.

As CC said if you're single dosing there's no real need for an Auber


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Thanks both appreciated. Got it booked in for a few weeks time.


----------



## koi (Oct 12, 2014)

Had a few of my coffee machine bits powder coated whilst I had my alloy wheels in.

If they are used to doing wheels they will fill in any gauges and repair before coating.


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Here you go @IanGB


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

Just picked up my gloss black powder coated Royal. Looks so good. A lot better than the pictures show.

I made some forks with some left over ikea pan hooks. Great for my single dosing set up.

Had the back plate painted with the case.

Even did an jimbojohn and polished the underside plate!

Love it.


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Just trim a bit off the funnel end to open the hole up, or it will block now and again.

The other thing it to file a bit off the lip of the funnel where it touches the grinder and it will straighten the funnel up for you.

It's looking good


----------



## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Looks great


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Just trim a bit off the funnel end to open the hole up, or it will block now and again.
> 
> The other thing it to file a bit off the lip of the funnel where it touches the grinder and it will straighten the funnel up for you.
> 
> It's looking good


Cheers, I've cut the bottom 1.5cm off already I find too big seems to spray the grinds a bit. Not sure where to file at the top as if it goes out forward too much the gap between the chute is too big to fill.

Any other mods worth doing on the single doser Royal or am I done tinkering?


----------



## EthanL (May 3, 2019)

I also have royal myself, haven't looked into the alignment, can anybody give a link, thanks!


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

EthanL said:


> I also have royal myself, haven't looked into the alignment, can anybody give a link, thanks!


https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?40402-Pimp-my-Major/page6

this is a dial gauge on my major, however it doesn't show

1 using shims of paper between the outside edge of the burr and the carier legs to get the burr central before tightening the screws 1 turn at a time to keep equal pressure

2 Using shims of aluminium foil under the burr to adjust any low spots

3 when you have done the lower burr ink up the burr edge of the upper burr then bring into contact while running 'chirp' gently to find out where the top burr needs adjusting

when I did this on an old Royal I found it needed up to 4 layers of foil to shim it


----------



## EthanL (May 3, 2019)

jimbojohn55 said:


> https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?40402-Pimp-my-Major/page6
> 
> this is a dial gauge on my major, however it doesn't show
> 
> ...


Many thanks!


----------



## DanB (Aug 28, 2018)

jimbojohn55 said:


> https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?40402-Pimp-my-Major/page6
> 
> this is a dial gauge on my major, however it doesn't show
> 
> ...


Thanks Jimbo. So that was my rock n roll Saturday night sorted! 









Not sure how successful I was though. I didn't find any low spots to shim and I'm still finding my espresso range is only 3/4 of a 'number' from the chirping point. Having said that, this morning's round of coffees were great.


----------



## @3aan (Mar 2, 2013)

DanB said:


> Thanks Jimbo. So that was my rock n roll Saturday night sorted!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice, I have the Mazzer Stark and did walk against the same problem, do I will follow Your idea!


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Hi @3aan - with your mazzer stark running at 900rpm shouldnt it have the 151B burrs and not the 151A ?


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Just another couple of ideas that ive found makes adjusting mazzer grinders easier

1 grease up the threads with chapstick (not too much) as well as where the adjustment wheel presses on the top of the upper burr carrier

2 make a longer adjustment arm to give easier and precise movements


----------



## @3aan (Mar 2, 2013)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Hi @3aan - with your mazzer stark running at 900rpm shouldnt it have the 151B burrs and not the 151A ?


I like the grind thats coming out, creamy espresso's

I got 5 of these grinders, wanted one could only buy the bunch!

In my Compak E8 i do have the same 151a

The 151a make considerably less noise, while the grind that they produce is very nice and gives good espresso.


----------



## koi (Oct 12, 2014)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Just another couple of ideas that ive found makes adjusting mazzer grinders easier
> 
> 1 grease up the threads with chapstick (not too much) as well as where the adjustment wheel presses on the top of the upper burr carrier
> 
> ...


Where did you get the adjustment arm from?


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

koi said:


> Where did you get the adjustment arm from?


The bunker

Alloy tube B&Q



Threaded bar Toolstation

Araldite - under the sink

small rubber o-ring and washer - I forget &#8230;&#8230;..possibly Do It All in the 1980's - most B&Q's should have something suitable

if making one the only tricky bit is the edge of the threaded hole in the adjustment ring has a slope to it - so adding a small o ring and washer lets the adjuster feel more solid.

The threaded bar runs through most of the tube to stop it bending and I finished it off with a dome head bolt on the outer end to make it easier to fix in place.

Bit of an experiment but it works










​


----------



## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> The bunker
> 
> Alloy tube B&Q
> 
> ...


& there was me thinking you'd just tapped a thread onto a bit of bar.


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ashcroc said:


> & there was me thinking you'd just tapped a thread onto a bit of bar.


making the time machine to go back to Do-it-All in the 1980's was the really tricky bit









tapping a bar - Damn ! - slaps forhead


----------



## Badgerman (Nov 23, 2017)

ashcroc said:


> & there was me thinking you'd just tapped a thread onto a bit of bar.


I took inspiration and made this for mine.










A prong from an ikea pan drawer organiser with an M5 bolt hammered in with a spring washer.


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

looks good


----------



## DanB (Aug 28, 2018)

Quick question- I've not managed to get the lens hood working as a 'bopper' to blow through retained grinds. It collapses when you press on it. All the eBay ones seem to be collapsible to use for telephoto/wide angle. Any tips on how you've done it? The fit isn't great on the major. I think I need a bit of Perspex tubing cut to sit the mouth of the chute. But I still don't think this would make the 'bopping' work.

Thanks


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

DanB said:


> Quick question- I've not managed to get the lens hood working as a 'bopper' to blow through retained grinds. It collapses when you press on it. All the eBay ones seem to be collapsible to use for telephoto/wide angle. Any tips on how you've done it? The fit isn't great on the major. I think I need a bit of Perspex tubing cut to sit the mouth of the chute. But I still don't think this would make the 'bopping' work.
> 
> Thanks


Take the lens hood metal ring out and try turning it upside down, if not then you need to sand or grind it down a fraction,

Also need a lid that fits closely,


----------



## DanB (Aug 28, 2018)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Take the lens hood metal ring out and try turning it upside down, if not then you need to sand or grind it down a fraction,
> 
> Also need a lid that fits closely,


I think you just like giving me Saturday night homework!

Some moderate success here- the grinding down of the metal ring from the lens hood worked well and now sits snugly inside holding the lens hood firmly in place. I found a glass lid from a Kilner jar fits perfectly as a lid.

My only doubt is how much puffing pressure it generates but I'll try it in anger tomorrow morning.

As a back up I've Blue Petered a well fitting bobber from a small yoghurt pot glued to a plastic ebay piping bottle.

Now I just have to come up with a plausible explanation for the filing noises coming from downstairs late at night. Grinding my lens hood ring sounds like an unfortunate euphemism.


----------



## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Glad it fits better- the amount of blow depends on how quickly the bellows is pushed - even then its not massive, but it does help

I ended up removing the lower burr carrier and filing and polishing it (apart from the groove the burrs sit in) - I also lightly polished the grinding chamber and shimmed the bearing cover plate to make it level ( need to increase the countersink of the screws a bit to make them flush) the effect of this was to reduce retention down to 0.1g - 0.05g even without the lens hood puffer. Its fiddly to do but made the biggest difference of any mod I made to the Major - Its what Sundays were made for


----------



## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

With a bit of a fiddle, (practise makes it easier) lids from these storage pots fit snuggly to the lens hood. A quick push down gives enough puff to lift the doser lid.

https://www.wilko.com/wilko-250ml-round-container-4-pack/p/0317346


----------

