# Sylvia wand really tight...



## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Just put a sylvia wand on the Classic, and it's a very tight fit.

I couldn't get the O-ring on there as well (either before or after the bump in the pipe), and now I've finally got the thing screwed in, the wand is solid, no swivel movement at all. with the rubber seal in place, the screw head won't reach the thread.

I know it's a simple procedure so I'm convinced I did it right (even watched a video in case there was something simple i missed), but I don't know if i should have prepared the wand in some way by filing it or something?

It does work, but is not movable (which is a pain for purging, I have to do it into a spare jug), nor does it have the seal on, so I have to turn the knob a little tighter now to get the flow to completely stop...

Anyone else had/solved a fit problem?


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## oracleoftruth (Jan 15, 2014)

Some people do mention sanding it down a bit.


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Cheers, I'll whip it off at the weekend when I get the chance to acquire something that will reduce it a bit.

Have to say though . . . first try with it and I've just amazed myself with some wonderful velvety milk.

Tried and totally failed so many times with the stock wand I was beginning to think I was just crap at it!!

The difference is night and day - Awesome upgrade!!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

andyt23 said:


> Just put a sylvia wand on the Classic, and it's a very tight fit.
> 
> I couldn't get the O-ring on there as well (either before or after the bump in the pipe), and now I've finally got the thing screwed in, the wand is solid, no swivel movement at all. with the rubber seal in place, the screw head won't reach the thread.
> 
> ...


DO NOT turn the knob off tighter, there is a tapered brass point on the inner end which fit into a taper, overtightening gouges out the taper causing premature wear then a leak.







= New steam valve complete !!!!


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Sounds like it either needs filed down slightly or the old original washer is still in the brass steam pipe...


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Oh right.

I've got the washer so not worried there, I guess it must just need a file down to reduce the diameter a smidge

Should the O ring go before the collar on the wand or after it (working from the machine end) ?

with it in either position, my nut wouldn't reach the thread

I'll take it off again this evening to remove the temptation of use whilst I sort the problem.

thanks


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Use a fine file and remove about half a milimetre of the END of the pipe, indert the rubber ring fully into the fitting /brass nut, Push the tube in firmly taking care not to displace /damage the "O" ring. Run the nut in with fingers then just nip with spanner. Wand should be free to turn and not leak.

If you put the "O" ring on first it will not pass the threaded section in the brass nut,

If you find the nut is slack/wobbles on the pipe, remove the nut and apply a few turns of PTFE tape below the shoulder on the pipe untill the nut will just slide over the tape. Refit and nip up nut ( not too tight)


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> Use a fine file and remove about half a milimetre of the END of the pipe, indert the rubber ring fully into the fitting /brass nut, Push the tube in firmly taking care not to displace /damage the "O" ring. Run the nut in with fingers then just nip with spanner. Wand should be free to turn and not leak.
> 
> If you put the "O" ring on first it will not pass the threaded section in the brass nut,
> 
> If you find the nut is slack/wobbles on the pipe, remove the nut and apply a few turns of PTFE tape below the shoulder on the pipe untill the nut will just slide over the tape. Refit and nip up nut ( not too tight)


Top tips. I can take it to work tomorrow and stick it a vice to shave a slither off and then try again with more care.

UPDATE: I'm an impatient sort, so I took it to bits again, reassembled as you suggested and now we have movement and a much better fit (I agree the 'O' ring was getting in the way), albeit rather stiff movement. Much better though.

I've noticed, in taking the wand out again and comparing them, that the old wand is actually ever so slightly longer after the shoulder/bump that is about 8mm from the end. It looks more like the diameter of the tube is what needs reducing as it looks the slightly more robust of the two, and it's that which probably accounts for the stiffness.

I'll probably nick a bit of wet and dry from work and fettle with it tomorrow night being careful not to reduce the size of the shoulder, unless anyone thinks thats a bad idea...


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## Kiwibeanaphile (Jan 31, 2014)

Yep that's what I did, some sanding with 100 grit paper, over 100 revolutions seemed to help on end.


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

I'm not the only one then?

In my excitement at getting the new wand I fitted immediately without reading any of the advice threads. It was tight, but went in and had a but if swivel. Worked fine, but once I'd put steam through it, it is now solid.

I realised afterwards that I'd neglected to sand it.

Tried to take it out last night, but it won't budge!

I'm now debating whether just leave it as it works fine and is at the single I need to be at, but is immovable. Or do I risk wrecking it and try to get it off to do the thing properly?

Any thoughts folks?

I'm thinking of maybe putting the wand in ice to try and get it out, but other than that I'm out if ideas other than brute force, which always ends in tears and lots of swearing when I break it


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

When I took mine out again, it was tough, but so long as the screw on bit comes off ok , the rest is push fit so there shouldn't be anything to damage (?).

I had to take the top off the machine and support the (more fragile/bendy) brass pipe that leads to the fitting from the inside, that way I was applying equal pressure to both ends of the problem, rather than just yarking at one end (this after realising I'd bent the brass pipe a bit already).

The key thing for me in refitting was taking el Carajillo's advice and pushing the O ring past the screw thread into the brass fitting first, before trying the wand again. It was easier, but I'm still gonna sand it a bit for a bit more freedom.

Good Luck


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## Eyedee (Sep 13, 2010)

I'm not totally conversant with this wand BUT if you are trying to get things to slide through rubber O rings be aware that a little bit of lubrication works wonders. The lube can be just plain water, either wet the pipe, the O ring, or both and it should slide in without a problem.

Ian


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Cheers Andy. Yeah I was mindful that whilst I really didn't want to have to take the top off, I was jut yanking on the brass pipe if I didn't. I think I'll do what you've done and get the top off.

The O ring was seated properly, I just think that because it tight going in, the fact it's been heated up and expanded a bit, has made it even more reluctant to come back out.

I shall have a go tomorrow. Just really don't want to damage my shines new machine


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The wand should NOT be a sloppy/loose fit, when you nip up the nut you are compressing the"O" ring to grip and seal the joint. You can lubricate the "O" ring to allow the wand to swing more easily using " MOLYCOTE 111" if you have some or other food grade grease.

To see IF the pipe is too large in diameter remove the asembly then isert the pipe into the brass nut to see IF it rotates or is tight and binding (should not be too loose) use this as a guide as to weather you need to reduce the diameter.


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

When i just put the wand in (O ring in place but no nut) I get smooth but stiff rotation. If I then nip the nut up it either goes solid, or if I back it off then when I rotate the wand it works the nut loose.

what I'm hoping for is a nipped up nut that doesn't loosen, plus a good degree of wand rotation.

by 'remove the assembly' do you mean take the brass pipe out too, or do you just mean take the wand out and try the wand in the pipe without the O ring?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Just the wand and "O" ring, leave the "O" ring out while you try it, if it rotates comfortably it is not the pipe diameter. Try a touch of F/G grease. even a spot of olive /cooking oil on "O" ring then nip up.


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Mine was the same. Rotated ok until I tightened the nut and put steam through it. Think it'll just need a bit of sanding


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Result!!

So, taking the great advice from this thread I tested the wand in the pipe first without the O ring in place. It was tight so I worked on the wand diameter very gently until it moved a little more freely.

I assembled it and tightened the nut and it stiffened again, so, I worked on the end of the pipe a little at a time.

Reassembled the whole thing (with a tiny dab of olive oil) and now it fits much better.

I'm a bit wary of taking too much of the wand, and at the moment it's rotating just stiffly enough to bring the nut back with it after a few goes.

I'm wondering if it's okay to add some thread lock or similar, or would ptfe tape be less permanent? I don't think I should take any more off the wand.

I could just keep an eye on it and keep tightening it back up, but that will wear thin quite quickly I'd imagine


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Do NOT use threadlock:bad:


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

I think as long as you get it to the point you can rotate it without spinning the nut then job done. Just do it in very small increments


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> Do NOT use threadlock:bad:


OK..........


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Sorted mine. Lid off, teased the wand out while keeping the brass pipe still then sanded it back.

The issue seems to be the silvia tapers towards the end, so it's fatter where the o ring sits. Hard to just sand the offending few mm, but I've got it so that it swings out and back in. Still fairly stiff, but didn't want to risk sanding it back too far and ending up with leakage.

Considering how stressful I found this 'simple' mod, I don't think I'll be tampering with pressure or the electrics any time soon!!!


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Glad you're sorted - hope you find it as awesomely different as I do!


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Deffo. I can finally texture milk. Far from successful every time or proficient, but at least I can get somewhere close.

Why on earth Gaggia (Phillips or whoever makes them these days) don't change that crappy wand is beyond me. Surely a silvia type one can't cost more, there are less parts for starters.

Surely they must be aware that everyone is swapping them out and how pants their stock ones are


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Does anyone get milk welding itself to the tip of the wand. I try to wipe it clean the instant I remove the jug, but there is always milk welded on. I don't think I'm overheating. Just wondering if this is normal?


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## Kiwibeanaphile (Jan 31, 2014)

I also wipe the tip as soon as I've finished frothing, some times I rest the wand in a glass of sparking water which seems to loosen the milk off.


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## andyt23 (Nov 24, 2013)

Yeah it does, and fast too! Big change from the plastic wand

I have a wet cloth at the ready - strike first, strike hard, no mercy!

Poor damned milk doesn't know what's hit it.


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## oracleoftruth (Jan 15, 2014)

I think they are planning a redesign of the classic but are scared because they are so popular. They seem to be using internal element stainless steel boilers now but have kept the classic same for a decade.

If they do redesign it they'll need to be very careful.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Well all they would need to do is make sure a new boiler fits, use a better steam arm and retain the rest of the Classic including it's looks, it hasn't essentially changed since it was introduced in 1991 other than the smaller 3 way solenoid and possibly more "value engineered" components since then too.


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Even if they just swapped out the wand for something similar to the Silvia it'd be a big improvement and wouldn't cost any more


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## Paulmgreen (Nov 16, 2013)

i just fitted a Sylvia steam wand... fitted really easy straight swap with no filing ....... the difference is like night and day vs the standard Gaggia!

Only issue is that its all worked fine...... but I just found the O ring on the worktop... I didn't fit it!!!!!!! hhhmmm.....


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Got the texture pretty consistent now. The art however, is going to take a while me thinks :/


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Nowt wrong with that


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Cheers mate. Bought a 120z jug yesterday to replace the 0.5L one I've been using up until now. That's helped a lot. Loving the silvia wand


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## craftygeek (Feb 19, 2014)

I've just installed a Silvia wand on my Classic.

It looks like I had completely the opposite problem to everyone else - it was too loose & leaked...all sorted with the help of some PTFE tape


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

MattRobbo45 said:


> Got the texture pretty consistent now. The art however, is going to take a while me thinks :/


 Nice one....Likes that cup as well. narrow bottom for lots of crema and a wide top for art


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## MattRobbo45 (Oct 3, 2012)

Cheers. I'm obsessed with buying coffee cups. This is villeroy + boch cafe club collection. Very nice









http://www.villeroy-boch.co.uk/shop/products/crockery/cups-mugs/caffe-club-uni-cornflower-coffee-cup.html


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