# Gaggia Classic steam valve refurbishment / repair



## HDAV

Anyone used this service? 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254622590020

or is it easy enough to diy anyone got a good guide/video?


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## MartinB

I think he's on this forum @FairRecycler👍


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## FairRecycler

Hi,

Thanks @MartinB for mentioning me here.

@HDAV

So far I had no complaints, and I'm doing quite a lot of these.

It's not a big deal you need a small flat file, or a Dremel, 1.8*4mm viton o ring (2*4mm food grade silicon would do). Drill, vice, flat surface, fine 400-600 grit sand paper, 1/8BSP 19tpi die, same thread locknut, citric acid, and around 1-2 hours if you do it first time.

No video tutorials yet, as far as I'm aware, but I would be happy to be proven wrong.

I'm happy to write out a rough guide if you need it.

Kind regards

Peter


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## ratty

FairRecycler said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks @MartinB for mentioning me here.
> 
> @HDAV
> 
> So far I had no complaints, and I'm doing quite a lot of these.
> 
> It's not a big deal you need a small flat file, or a Dremel, 1.8*4mm viton o ring (2*4mm food grade silicon would do). Drill, vice, flat surface, fine 400-600 grit sand paper, 1/8BSP 19tpi die, same thread locknut, citric acid, and around 1-2 hours if you do it first time.
> 
> No video tutorials yet, as far as I'm aware, but I would be happy to be proven wrong.
> 
> I'm happy to write out a rough guide if you need it.
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Peter


 You can't really ask 'fairer' than that! 🤣

Seriously, all dealings I've had with @FairRecycler have been 100% positive. Peter goes above and beyond what's required.


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## FairRecycler

Thank you @rattyfor your feedback.

However I still owe you such a guide on this topic


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## HDAV

Ok sounds good do you do a an exchange basis or just a repair as it means machine will be out of action for best part of a week.

SWMBO will be even less impressed by no coffee than she is but the puddles on the work top!

best to order via eBay?


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## Mulligrub

I can throughly recommend Peter at @FairRecycler he goes out of his way to give help and advice. Typically I bought his pressure gauge kit for my Gaggia Classic and found the quality of the components and fitting instructions of the class.


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## Norvin

FairRecycler said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks @MartinB for mentioning me here.
> 
> @HDAV
> 
> So far I had no complaints, and I'm doing quite a lot of these.
> 
> It's not a big deal you need a small flat file, or a Dremel, 1.8*4mm viton o ring (2*4mm food grade silicon would do). Drill, vice, flat surface, fine 400-600 grit sand paper, 1/8BSP 19tpi die, same thread locknut, citric acid, and around 1-2 hours if you do it first time.
> 
> No video tutorials yet, as far as I'm aware, but I would be happy to be proven wrong.
> 
> I'm happy to write out a rough guide if you need it.
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Peter


 Great idea, thanks for sharing the details. I make the thread to be 1/4BSP. The redundant nut that is taken off the Silvia wand when fitting to a Classic is just the right size, I have just found three in my spares box with two steam valves. I may drill and tap the unused boss on the valve to take a outlet for a pressure gauge, anybody done that?


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## FairRecycler

Norvin said:


> Great idea, thanks for sharing the details. I make the thread to be 1/4BSP. The redundant nut that is taken off the Silvia wand when fitting to a Classic is just the right size, I have just found three in my spares box with two steam valves. I may drill and tap the unused boss on the valve to take a outlet for a pressure gauge, anybody done that?


 Thank you for the correction obviously it is 1/4 BSP

Yes the Rancilio nut does the job just perfectly


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## HDAV

Norvin said:


> Great idea, thanks for sharing the details. I make the thread to be 1/4BSP. The redundant nut that is taken off the Silvia wand when fitting to a Classic is just the right size, I have just found three in my spares box with two steam valves. I may drill and tap the unused boss on the valve to take a outlet for a pressure gauge, anybody done that?


 Not done it but have seen it done, a link was posted in another thread by @MartinB, i have a steam wand from a selecta deluxe which has this already tapped to M7 x 0.75 i have ordered a pressure gauge already (wasn't aware of Peter at the time) which i a refurbing as a stop gap while i have valve repaired






I also have a silvia nut hmmmmmmm


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## Rebel

FairRecycler said:


> I'm happy to write out a rough guide if you need it.


 Please do (or shoot a video) since shipping back and forth across the pond is too expensive. I've replaced the valve once and still have the original but the replacement is starting to act up.


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## HDAV

That seems a decent offer Peter, wondering if worth risking the lockdown/Xmas postal rush or wait till the new year as don't be able to ship until I have the backup machine running which won't be until next week at the earliest.


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## FairRecycler

@HDAV

Royal mail works perfectly yet, according to my experiences and I'm sending out quite a few letters/parsels every week.

It's totally up to you.

@Rebel

I've just shot some self explanatory (hopefully) photos. I can't spend too much time on it, so no video I'm afraid.


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## FairRecycler

Later on I'll add some script to them too, until then please feel free to ask if it's unclear.


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## FairRecycler

Is it possible to rename the thread to Gaggia Classic steam valve refurbishment / repair?

Or shall I make a new one and repost the latest one?


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## HDAV

FairRecycler said:


> Is it possible to rename the thread to Gaggia Classic steam valve refurbishment / repair?
> 
> Or shall I make a new one and repost the latest one?


 I can't edit the title now, but @DavecUK might be able to....it is in the gaggia forum


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## HDAV

Steam valve on its way for refurb, how do you get the spindle out of the body to then drill and tap it?


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## FairRecycler

HDAV said:


> Steam valve on its way for refurb, how do you get the spindle out of the body to then drill and tap it?


 Me personally, filing down the crimping (it takes 1-2 minutes and gives a nice and even surface), I look now some people using a dremel.

I'm not drilling it, it's just for deburring, I'm spinning a large drill bit by hand to get rid of the sharp edge to avoid damage of the o ring upon threading in the spindle. If you using a. 2*4mm o ring it is advisable to file the shoulder below the top surface as well.


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## Agentb

@FairRecycler I have an old one which this would be ideal, but I've been thinking something like

Panel-Mount Brass On/Off Valve

cut off the valve completely.

I got the idea from here http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1170.0

I suspect this will be more expensive than a replacement but might last longer.

Has anyone tried such a thing?


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## HDAV

Agentb said:


> @FairRecycler I have an old one which this would be ideal, but I've been thinking something like
> 
> Panel-Mount Brass On/Off Valve
> 
> cut off the valve completely.
> 
> I got the idea from here http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1170.0
> 
> I suspect this will be more expensive than a replacement but might last longer.
> 
> Has anyone tried such a thing?


 I'm working on the basis that once modded to use a nut rather than a crimp in future it can be disassembled to clean replace o ring etc and be a serviceable part rather than a disposable having found new units for £30 (rather than the often quoted £50) the saving isn't as large as it was and certainly not worth scraping a machine over.

In order to fit that valve you still need to modify the original to be a boiler outlet at which point you have done the hard bit of removing the crimp (you could I guess just saw straight through it....


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## FairRecycler

Agentb said:


> @FairRecycler I have an old one which this would be ideal, but I've been thinking something like
> 
> Panel-Mount Brass On/Off Valve
> 
> cut off the valve completely.
> 
> I got the idea from here http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1170.0
> 
> I suspect this will be more expensive than a replacement but might last longer.
> 
> Has anyone tried such a thing?


 Interesting idea, however I'm with @HDAV here.


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## MrSmartepants

> On 11/11/2020 at 12:11, HDAV said:
> 
> Not done it but have seen it done, a link was posted in another thread by @MartinB, i have a steam wand from a selecta deluxe which has this already tapped to M7 x 0.75 i have ordered a pressure gauge already (wasn't aware of Peter at the time) which i a refurbing as a stop gap while i have valve repaired


 This seems like a cool idea, but I can't help thinking that modifying the steam valve for a pressure gauge is a LOT more work than simply installing a T-fitting on the pump outlet. Is there any tangible benefit to reading the pressure off the boiler directly vs. the pump outlet?

My steam valve has developed a drip-leak also. Annoying for sure, though I don't use my steam wand for anything other than purging the boiler or descaling.


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## HDAV

MrSmartepants said:


> My steam valve has developed a drip-leak also. Annoying for sure, though I don't use my steam wand for anything other than purging the boiler or descaling.


 Should be able to swing it out of the way behind the brew head so it just drips into the drip tray if you take the plastic off the original paranello you should have a short pipe you can add a hose to and route into drip tray.


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## FairRecycler

MrSmartepants said:


> Is there any tangible benefit to reading the pressure off the boiler directly vs. the pump outlet?


 Flutter free needle, but it comes at a price of higher risk of the capillary tube cloging from calcification. IMO


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## HDAV

Refurbished valve received back today after being sent first class to @FairRecycler on Friday so a pretty quick turn around haven't had chance to try it yet although I have fitted it to the machine only tiny issue is the little vanity cover disc no longer fits but I do have a cunning plan! Also it came back with a new o ring which was a bonus, I sent the nut that came off the rancilio steam wand (knew I kept it for 7 years for a reason ) so all in all a great job! 🤞🤞🤞 the drips stops and doesn't return as using the back up selecta I bought to rob the steam valve off, which doesn't drip at all has been much nicer.


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## HDAV

Refurbished valves fitted, and tested this morning still one or 2 drips but far far less than before and no flood/puddle under the wand so if you have a dripping, drippy, classic or similar well worth having it refurbished by Peter @FairRecycler quick service (as quick as Royal Mail can achieve) even supplied a new o ring so apart from a Philips screwdriver to take the cover off and a hex/Allen key (common 5mm iirc) to undo the the valve bolts and a spanner adjustable (17mm I think) to remove the steam outlet pipe from valve all you need is a padded envelope to send it in!

So after a rancilio steam arm this is the best thing you can do to your pre-2015 classic (not sure about newer ones) .


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## FairRecycler

HDAV said:


> I'm working on the basis that once modded to use a nut rather than a crimp in future it can be disassembled to clean replace o ring etc and be a serviceable part rather than a disposable


 I've just realised how easy it is to do so, you don't even need to open up the machine 😅

Valve spindle inspection/reconditioning:
Make sure the machine is unplugged, the boiler is cold, and no pressure left in it (open the steam valve to relieve any pressure)
If you have a ratchet with an 18mm socket, you don't even have to remove the top.
Pull off the handle, loosen and unscrew the lock nut put the knob back, unscrew the spindle. Your are looking at the cone at the end of the spindle.

I've attached how it should look like, also some photos of the disassembly steps.
If you have no access to an 18mm socket, remove the top and loosen the locknut with an adjustable or 18mm spanner (a 19mm should be sufficient too).

Upon reassembly take extra care when threading the spindle in, to avoid damage of the o ring (a drop of water on the o ring and in the valve body would help), also ensure to tap the brass ring back to its place (a 6mm or 1/4" tubular hex key would make it very easy).


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## FairRecycler

Finally I've written up a kind of a guide to perform the refurbishment. I've also recorded the whole process, so when time allows to edit (not any soon I'm afraid), I'll also post a YouTube video. For the time being, feel free to ask any questions here.

File off the crimping (carefully, not to file the valve stem)

Unscrew the spindle.

Deburr the top hole of the valve body with a large drill bit by spinning it with hand, to get rid of the sharp inner edge.

Cut a M12 or 1/4BSPP thread on the top end of the valve body.

File down slightly the outer bottom edge of the collar, for easier fit upon assembly.

Remove the o ring from the valve stem.

Put the valve stem into a cordless drill

Get a fine sandpaper and a perfectly flat surface

Polish the cone of the valve stem (make sure to hold it in the right angle constantly to keep the original shape of the cone) until you sand off the rim compressed on it.

In the case the valve seat has a chamfer (countersink) compressed, it's a good idea to re-machine it with a 5mm endmill, (you'll need one with 5mm shank as well, to reach the valve seat. Make sure to machine it dead square, or it won't close anymore. Don't mill out more than 1.5mm, or the stem won't reach the seat, so the valve won't close anymore.

Soak the parts in 2-5% citric acid solution (boiling water) for 15-20 minutes.

Clean the valve seat inside the valve body with a long brush, and rinse the parts

Fit a new o ring to the stem (1.87*4mm 70 shore hardness food grade silicone o ring, optionally the 2*4mm would work) use food grade silicone on the o ring.

Thread back the valve stem, carefully when the o ring enters the valve body, not to damage it.

Fit the collar.

Thread in the appropriate locknut (M12 or 1/4BSPP)

Tighten.

You have a new valve.


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## light87

FairRecycler said:


> Deburr the top hole of the valve body with a large drill bit by spinning it with hand, to get rid of the sharp inner edge


 I haven't get how you removed the material of the valve case that block the shift from coming out with a normal drill bit, could you please explain it?

Thanks.


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## FairRecycler

light87 said:


> I haven't get how you removed the material of the valve case that block the shift from coming out with a normal drill bit, could you please explain it?
> 
> Thanks.


 Hand file, 1 min job. Work your way around, make sure to use a file with blunt/smooth edge, not to file in the spindle.


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## BBBean

I can totally vouch for this method. I followed the advice from @FairRecycler given previously and did this repair a couple of months ago. I had also watched a couple of videos on YouTube. Agree that it is definitely best to use a file with a smooth side to file off the crimped end of the steam wand, don't use a Dremel as in one of the videos. 
The filing took me a bit longer, perhaps 10 minutes, but it was using a small toolmakers file. Only issue I had was that it becomes difficult to judge whether you are filing off the crimp or filing away the washer underneath. The drill bit is used simply to de-burr the end of the housing so not to damage the O ring when removing the shaft. Using the nut from a Rancilio steam wand is also a neat solution.


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## Michael87

I saw this ad on eBay the other day and thought I'd probably use this service. The problem is I've already replaced my stream valve and that only got me 3-4 months drip free, now it leaks sream again. So is this now a regular maintenance step or had it revealed some other maintenance I'm neglecting?

(PS I also replaced the boiler and use official descaler once every 2 months)


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## FairRecycler

Well done @BBBean.

I am think it would help many people, if you could link the YouTube videos here.


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## BBBean

This is the best of the videos I referred to:






Interesting attitude to H&S!

Fitting a nut to the modified valve is infinitely preferable, although I did have to buy a 1/4 inch die. Also don't use a dremel to remove the collar, it is much neater to file the crimped end off. As mentioned earlier the nut from a Rancilio steam wand is also a neat solution.


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## BBBean

An additional comment having just watched this video again is don't throw away the brass washer. Refit it on re-assembly as it helps to stabilise the steam valve.


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## light87

Hi

Ok now I have understood how to do that. Regarding the nut you have taken a normale M12 nut and then you have make an hole through it?


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## ratty

The nut that's used is the one that comes with the Rancillio Sylvia steam wand that you have to remove to fit the Gaggia nut from the old wand when replacing it.

The end of the steam valve has to be first threaded with a thread die, size 1/4" BSP.


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## FairRecycler

Michael87 said:


> I saw this ad on eBay the other day and thought I'd probably use this service. The problem is I've already replaced my stream valve and that only got me 3-4 months drip free, now it leaks sream again. So is this now a regular maintenance step or had it revealed some other maintenance I'm neglecting?
> 
> (PS I also replaced the boiler and use official descaler once every 2 months)


 I think the longevity highly dependent on, how hard you are tightening it.


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## Nightrider_1uk

ratty said:


> The nut that's used is the one that comes with the Rancillio Sylvia steam wand that you have to remove to fit the Gaggia nut from the old wand when replacing it.
> 
> The end of the steam valve has to be first threaded with a thread die, size 1/4" BSP.


 Thats ok if your fitting the new wand, Not so good if the wand has bwwn fitted by somebody else prior to your ownership


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## FairRecycler

Nightrider_1uk said:


> Thats ok if your fitting the new wand, Not so good if the wand has bwwn fitted by somebody else prior to your ownership


 Probably I wasn't clear, in my opinion it depends on how hard you closing it each time


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## Nightrider_1uk

FairRecycler said:


> Probably I wasn't clear, in my opinion it depends on how hard you closing it each time


 Sorry @FairRecycler. We are getting cross wires here i think. My comment was in reference to using the nut removed from the Rancillio steam wand when fitting to the classic and keeping for refurbishing the steam valve yourself (as in myself doing the refurbishment). If I didn't fit the wand I wouldn't have the nut and hence would have to source a 1/4 bsp nut (which shouldn't be too hard); Nothing to do with the service you provide


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## light87

Hi

I have done it with my Proxxon and a small burr, but yes maybe it would have been better with just a file but I didn't have a proper one. Anyway I have done it and I have smoth the end surface by using a simple flat file by hand. Maybe I have removed 1-2 mm too much but should be working anyway.

Regarding the thread I would prefer to use M12 thread because I already have the M12 threader but I don't have the 1/4" BSP threader....is there a nut M12 that I could use? Maybe I could buy a standard M12 nut with dead end and make an Hole on it?


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## HDAV

Trouble is I don't think plumbing use m12 but ebay would be the best bet

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/cap-nuts/62162-HCN-M12-A2?uk_google_shopping=1&c=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5IC9uoTo7gIVSuDtCh3KfgsTEAQYBCABEgKef_D_BwE


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## FairRecycler

Nightrider_1uk said:


> Sorry @FairRecycler. We are getting cross wires here i think. My comment was in reference to using the nut removed from the Rancillio steam wand when fitting to the classic and keeping for refurbishing the steam valve yourself (as in myself doing the refurbishment). If I didn't fit the wand I wouldn't have the nut and hence would have to source a 1/4 bsp nut (which shouldn't be too hard); Nothing to do with the service you provide


 Sorry, I misunderstood, yes that's true. However I didn't think it was about my refurb service, but I keep hearing from many people, brand new valves developing a leak in just a few months.


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## Michael87

FairRecycler said:


> I think the longevity highly dependent on, how hard you are tightening it.


 Thanks. Do you think that's because tightening will crush some limescale between the two mating faces and damage them?


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## AndyDClements

light87 said:


> Hi
> 
> I have done it with my Proxxon and a small burr, but yes maybe it would have been better with just a file but I didn't have a proper one. Anyway I have done it and I have smoth the end surface by using a simple flat file by hand. Maybe I have removed 1-2 mm too much but should be working anyway.
> 
> Regarding the thread I would prefer to use M12 thread because I already have the M12 threader but I don't have the 1/4" BSP threader....is there a nut M12 that I could use? Maybe I could buy a standard M12 nut with dead end and make an Hole on it?


 People have already mentioned one problem with using m12 thread (the lack of an obvious type of blanked-off nut), there are two others. Firstly, a 1/4BSP blanking nut, especially the steam wand option, will be relatively small across it's flats whereas a standard nut would be physically larger across the flats and so the option to later access it using a socket through the case hole will not work. The bigger problem though is, 1/4BP thread is slightly more than 13mm outside diameter, so it's a good choice given the dimension of the turned section of brass that needs to be threaded. To use m12 you'd need to reduce the diameter of that brass to 12mm else the die will not fit to cut the thread.

You can (as you suggest) block up the end of a m12 nut, such as welding on a washer.

You can reduce the outside diameter of the m12 nut by simply filing/machining material away.

You can reduce the outside diameter of the brass section to be threaded but that needs to be close to round and parallel (let alone concentric to the inner hole)so that's likely to be a job to be done on a lathe.

All that work can be avoided by purchasing a 1/4 BSP die.


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## BBBean

Agree with @AndyDClements best to stick with 1/4 BSP and purchase a die. I bought mine from a nice chap on eBay, I'm sure he won't mind me linking to his page

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/jow1995

Also if you use a BSP thread there are plenty of pipe fitting alternatives available if you don't have a Silvia wand nut to hand. Alternatively send it to @FairRecycler if he still has time to do these?


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## ratty

You could always purchase a brass 1/4 BSP end cap and drill the 6mm hole in the end.

Or if preferred a stainless steel end cap with the more difficult 6mm hole drilling option in the end.


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## light87

Ac



AndyDClements said:


> People have already mentioned one problem with using m12 thread (the lack of an obvious type of blanked-off nut), there are two others. Firstly, a 1/4BSP blanking nut, especially the steam wand option, will be relatively small across it's flats whereas a standard nut would be physically larger across the flats and so the option to later access it using a socket through the case hole will not work. The bigger problem though is, 1/4BP thread is slightly more than 13mm outside diameter, so it's a good choice given the dimension of the turned section of brass that needs to be threaded. To use m12 you'd need to reduce the diameter of that brass to 12mm else the die will not fit to cut the thread.
> 
> You can (as you suggest) block up the end of a m12 nut, such as welding on a washer.
> 
> You can reduce the outside diameter of the m12 nut by simply filing/machining material away.
> 
> You can reduce the outside diameter of the brass section to be threaded but that needs to be close to round and parallel (let alone concentric to the inner hole)so that's likely to be a job to be done on a lathe.
> 
> All that work can be avoided by purchasing a 1/4 BSP die.


 Actually mine is 12 mm diameter so i think that the 1/4 BP may be problematic to make. Don't ask my why it's 12 mm and not more, I don't know actually.


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## El carajillo

1/4" BSP does not mean the diameter is 1/4" It refers to the method used sizing pipe fittings.

If you deduct a 1/4" from your 12 mm you will find it is approximately 1/4".


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## AndyDClements

@light87 that's showing 12.12mm which is (as you call out) a little small, but I think its well within the range of external diameters for 1/4 BSP for this purpose, and as the die cuts it will likely push some material to form a peak that is a larger diameter than the original of the material. The table will give the metric dimensions https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/bsp-pipe-threads (that table uses the terms Max and Min to refer to the diameter of the peaks of the thread and the troughs of the thread respectively, I'd normally refer to them as Major and Minor). So cutting from 12.12mm wouldn't be as good as doing it from 13mm but considering the purpose is just to stop somebody unscrewing the steam tap, its going to be fine.

If you do with M12 then the smallest allowable Minor diameter (the diameter of the bottom/ inner of the threads) is 10.6mm, whereas 1/4 BSP is 11.445, so you will cut a little deeper into the brass with a metric thread/ get a little closer to the hole. I'd guess that's OK (I've judged by the photo that the inner is c8mm with 2mm walls). You will have taken the walls from 2mm to 1.3mm thickness (at thinnest point) for which its purpose is to hold in the steam pressure, that seems to be OK given we are only looking at water at 120-130DegC. You will probably need to still take a bit of material off the outside, to get a little less than 12mm in order to get the die on.


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## HDAV

You could of course use a none threaded cap grub screw to hold firm


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## light87

Hi

It seems that this guy here http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=394.0 thread it with M12 and theuse a simple open nut and a washer. What do you think?


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## HDAV

Can't work out what that nut is but it's not standard.


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## AndyDClements

One of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spare-Hydraulic-Metric-Tube-NUT-for-Compression-Fitting-Couplings-Union-M-Pipe/400360934486?hash=item5d375f0c56:g:X-sAAMXQeW5TYU5S

Finally realise m12x1.0, I have some (not pretty chrome ones) they are the same as m12 female brake union/nut on a car.


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## AndyDClements

I now checked some tap & die kits, @HDAV if you go this route, you'll probably need to purchase a suitable 12mm die as most DIY kits will not include M12 x 1.0. I looked on Machine Mart and even their 76 piece metric set has just two versions of m12, the 1.5 and 1.25, it does not go as fine as 1.0mm. Bear in mind that basic metric sets have only 16 pieces and generally just include the standard thread in the most common sizes.

Machine mart do sell a 110 piece set (laser 4554) that incudes M12x1.0 but at £209 it's not what I expect most DIYers would have gone for.


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## BBBean

light87 said:


> Hi
> 
> It seems that this guy here http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?topic=394.0 thread it with M12 and theuse a simple open nut and a washer. What do you think?


 That's a really good link and actually was the other source I used to help when carrying out the repair, it actually contains the same link to the "Tex Mod" video.

Personally still think best to go for the 1/4 BSP thread. I was a little concerned that the OD of the valve was too small and as a result the threads aren't fully formed. However there isn't really any load on this, the nut is just providing a barrier in case the steam valve is opened too far.


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## light87

I agree that the 1/4' BSP it's a better option i just would like to skip buying the thread die which would cost me 30 euro at least because right now I'm buying many things for both the Gaggia Classic and the MDF that I'm restoring. I already have the M12 thread die but actually I need to check the pitch of my M12 die which I don't remember. I'll let you know.


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## larkim

If, say, someone had done the "Tex Mod" to solve dripping from the knob end of his steam valve but casually thrown away the small brass washer because that's what the mod suggested, and now they fancied making it safer and less susceptible to the spindle wobbling, where might one get hold of the spec of such a washer?

It's not the end of the world for me, and I only use the wand for hot water to make quickly drinkable Americano, but having sorted out the dripping with a 4*2mm o ring I might as well make the whole job ultra neat.


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## BBBean

larkim said:


> If, say, someone had done the "Tex Mod" to solve dripping from the knob end of his steam valve but casually thrown away the small brass washer because that's what the mod suggested, and now they fancied making it safer and less susceptible to the spindle wobbling, where might one get hold of the spec of such a washer?


 I think its time to get the vernier callipers out. Actually @FairRecycler may be able to help as I believe he is doing this mod on a regular basis and might be able to supply dimensions.

As an aside I would be interested to know where you sourced the o ring in case I need to do any more of these mods in the future.


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## FairRecycler

BBBean said:


> I think its time to get the vernier callipers out. Actually @FairRecycler may be able to help as I believe he is doing this mod on a regular basis and might be able to supply dimensions.
> 
> As an aside I would be interested to know where you sourced the o ring in case I need to do any more of these mods in the future.


 I'll measure it as soon as I have 1 at hand.


----------



## BBBean

light87 said:


> I agree that the 1/4' BSP it's a better option i just would like to skip buying the thread die which would cost me 30 euro at least because right now I'm buying many things for both the Gaggia Classic and the MDF that I'm restoring. I already have the M12 thread die but actually I need to check the pitch of my M12 die which I don't remember. I'll let you know.


 As a bi-product of refurbishing a number of machines, I've actually built up a small stock of Rancilio steam wand nuts and am very happy to send you one of these.
Also thought I might offer to lend you the 1/4 inch BSP die nut I purchased for this modification, but I think I've just twigged that you're not in the UK, where are you based?


----------



## larkim

BBBean said:


> I think its time to get the vernier callipers out. Actually @FairRecycler may be able to help as I believe he is doing this mod on a regular basis and might be able to supply dimensions.
> 
> As an aside I would be interested to know where you sourced the o ring in case I need to do any more of these mods in the future.


 I bought these via Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Green-Viton®-Rubber-Metric-Rings/dp/B07P6MLGSM?ref_=ast_sto_dp - risked £5, it seems to fit OK and I've got spares. I did think about putting two on there as there's space, but that would be overkill!


----------



## light87

BBBean said:


> As a bi-product of refurbishing a number of machines, I've actually built up a small stock of Rancilio steam wand nuts and am very happy to send you one of these.
> Also thought I might offer to lend you the 1/4 inch BSP die nut I purchased for this modification, but I think I've just twigged that you're not in the UK, where are you based?


 Hi

THank you for your kindness but I'm in Italy and I don't know if this would be a problem for shipping! Regarding the 1/4 BSP I'm gonna see if I can find it from my plumber.


----------



## BBBean

light87 said:


> Hi
> 
> THank you for your kindness but I'm in Italy and I don't know if this would be a problem for shipping! Regarding the 1/4 BSP I'm gonna see if I can find it from my plumber.


 Let us know how you get on. I actually paid £7 including postage for the die from the chap whose link I pasted in earlier. I have checked and he has more available now at £7.50 although I'm not sure what his shipping cost would be to Italy.

I've since had a look at postage and I think it would be £3.50 for me to send a "large letter" to Italy. If you can't source the 1/4 BSP die in Italy I would be happy to purchase another die on your behalf and send it to you with the Rancilio nut (or even send you mine if you are in hurry)?


----------



## Gilly

FairRecycler said:


> Thank you for the correction obviously it is 1/4 BSP
> 
> Yes the Rancilio nut does the job just perfectly


 Or perhaps use the steam valve off a Gaggia Deluxe model??


----------



## FairRecycler

Gilly said:


> Or perhaps use the steam valve off a Gaggia Deluxe model??


 Hi,

I'm not sure what do you mean? That is almost identical to the Classic's steam valve, with the same crimped end.


----------



## Gilly

FairRecycler said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm not sure what do you mean? That is almost identical to the Classic's steam valve, with the same crimped end.


 Sorry wired crossed; it was in relation to a pressure gauge question.


----------



## HDAV

AndyDClements said:


> One of these?
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spare-Hydraulic-Metric-Tube-NUT-for-Compression-Fitting-Couplings-Union-M-Pipe/400360934486?hash=item5d375f0c56:g:X-sAAMXQeW5TYU5S
> 
> Finally realise m12x1.0, I have some (not pretty chrome ones) they are the same as m12 female brake union/nut on a car.


 That looks similar and hydraulic (I did have a quick look at pneumatic fittings) are a good shout yes m12x1.0 is a very fine pitch for that diameter

these are M12 fine pitch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pneumatic-Air-Quick-Connector-Fitting-Metric-M12-M12X1-25-Male-X-6mm-OD-Tube-F0-/201866219791?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

clearly don't order from America but local supplier probably has them quite cheaply


----------



## AndyDClements

I think that on those pneumatic ones, the male section is m12 but the nuts that secure the pipe to the fitting are less than 12mm.


----------



## jzk

What's the best way to get a stuck steam connector off from the top of the boiler? Mine is leaking slightly but haven't been able to get it out.


----------



## Michael87

jzk said:


> What's the best way to get a stuck steam connector off from the top of the boiler? Mine is leaking slightly but haven't been able to get it out.


 Undo the bolts and try to lever it sideways so that it rotates around the connection, that will break the seal. I did it once with the boiler in place using a spanner to grab the steam valve and giving that a few taps sideways. The second time, that didn't work and the whole boiler had to come out for me to get enough leverage.

If it's leaking, it'll be stuck on by corrosion (galvanic as it's brass/aluminium joint? or scale?), and may need quite some force.


----------



## larkim

This might be very cack handed, but I placed the stripped down boiler on its side and gave the valve assembly a few taps with a hammer (protecting the brass with a piece of wood in between) to get some rotational movement on the valve just to release the stiction. I doubt the valve had been off in 13 years, but a few robust but careful whacks got it moving left and right enough to start a manual wobbling.


----------



## Alfieboy

jzk said:


> What's the best way to get a stuck steam connector off from the top of the boiler? Mine is leaking slightly but haven't been able to get it out.


 Remember they are like this not flat - is the boiler out or still in the machine


----------



## FairRecycler

larkim said:


> This might be very cack handed, but I placed the stripped down boiler on its side and gave the valve assembly a few taps with a hammer (protecting the brass with a piece of wood in between) to get some rotational movement on the valve just to release the stiction. I doubt the valve had been off in 13 years, but a few robust but careful whacks got it moving left and right enough to start a manual wobbling.


 If you already have the boiler out, tap it out from the inside with a flat end <10mm rod


----------



## BBBean

FairRecycler said:


> If you already have the boiler out, tap it out from the inside with a flat end <10mm rod


 Concur with @FairRecycler, he shared this gem with me after I told him I had spent half an hour moving the steam valve side to side before it eventually came out.


----------



## light87

larkim said:


> If, say, someone had done the "Tex Mod" to solve dripping from the knob end of his steam valve but casually thrown away the small brass washer because that's what the mod suggested, and now they fancied making it safer and less susceptible to the spindle wobbling, where might one get hold of the spec of such a washer?
> 
> It's not the end of the world for me, and I only use the wand for hot water to make quickly drinkable Americano, but having sorted out the dripping with a 4*2mm o ring I might as well make the whole job ultra neat.
> 
> View attachment 53165


 If I have understand well you suggest to use an o.ring of 4 mm external diameter and 2 mm thickness to have no leak of steam from the external nut?

By the way I used to know that many people installed the silvia steam wand V1/V2 now I have seen that on this forum there's someone who has installed the V3 version which is bigger. My question is, there is a improvment in using the silvia V3 steam wand instead of the v2?

Thanks,


----------



## jzk

FairRecycler said:


> If you already have the boiler out, tap it out from the inside with a flat end <10mm rod


 Boiler was out but it's further complicated by the fact that one of the bolts is rounded so can't remove it from the grouphead. Haven't tried too hard yet, but given that the boiler/grouphead wasn't leaking, I didn't want to risk shearing off the head but being unable to remove the rest of the bolt or reattach the boiler (as then I'd be in an even worse position!)

That's a useful trick to know though!


----------



## larkim

light87 said:


> If I have understand well you suggest to use an o.ring of 4 mm external diameter and 2 mm thickness to have no leak of steam from the external nut?
> 
> By the way I used to know that many people installed the silvia steam wand V1/V2 now I have seen that on this forum there's someone who has installed the V3 version which is bigger. My question is, there is a improvment in using the silvia V3 steam wand instead of the v2?
> 
> Thanks,


 It's 4mm inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter, 2mm thickness. And yes, for me that has stopped the leaking from the point where the spindle exits the valve where the knob attaches.

I got the seals from Amazon.


----------



## FairRecycler

larkim said:


> If, say, someone had done the "Tex Mod" to solve dripping from the knob end of his steam valve but casually thrown away the small brass washer because that's what the mod suggested, and now they fancied making it safer and less susceptible to the spindle wobbling, where might one get hold of the spec of such a washer?
> 
> It's not the end of the world for me, and I only use the wand for hot water to make quickly drinkable Americano, but having sorted out the dripping with a 4*2mm o ring I might as well make the whole job ultra neat.
> 
> View attachment 53165


 I've just had one open.

Dimensions of the brass washer:

OD 8.825MM the nest is 9.0mm and the inner shoulder is 8.0mm, so it should be somewhere in between them, but preferably closer to 9.0mm

ID: 6.5mm however the spindle itself is only 5.75mm, so I can't see a 6.0mm ID would cause any harm.

Thickness was 1.25mm on mine, however I filed the top surface slightly (I suppose it was 1.3-1.35mm originally), in order to get it out, but it definitely wasn't 1.57mm (standard washer thickness), and it'll also depends on how much you taken off yours. Anyways you can always fit it in place and file it flush with the valve body, to get a nice even top surface.


----------



## larkim

Fab thanks!!


----------



## ratty

Is it worth doing the mod on a new steam valve on a refurbished Classic, or should that be left up to the potential buyer do you think?


----------



## FairRecycler

I would definitely recommend it, many people lacking the tools required for this mod. This would make their life much easier, and be honest new valves tend to start leak even sooner than old ones (many people reported leaky valve on new machines even after 1-3 months).


----------



## MrSmartepants

My steam valve has started leaking despite descaling.

I think I'll have to send Peter my steam valve for this mod since I don't have the tools to do it myself.


----------



## Alfieboy

MrSmartepants said:


> My steam valve has started leaking despite descaling.
> 
> I think I'll have to send Peter my steam valve for this mod since I don't have the tools to do it myself.


 He does a first class job 😎


----------



## Dusk

I assume there's a fundamental design issue with the valve? My Classic Pro(only a few months old) is already leaking from the valve, I can obviously send it back under warranty but it almost seems pointless if it's likely to fail again just as quickly.


----------



## AndyDClements

@DuskIt's a cone of metal butting up to a ring of metal, so a tiny area of contact to form the seal. The cone has a wear groove form over time, or worse if any solid particle happens to get into that section as the valve is being closed. It's also a sealed unit, not designed to be repaired /serviced. Compare that to the Pavoni Europiccola steam valve which has rubber O rings, designed to be replaced periodically.

If yours has started leaking very early it may not have actually failed, it may just be a particle (such as a tiny bit of scale) has got between the two surfaces. It's worth flushing it, and if that fails, flush with descale (and leave descaler solution in the open vale for a little while). First flush, just try pumping water (brew switch) when the steam valve is fully open, ideally with a blanking basket (the one with no holes) in place or if you don't have one of those then at least a pressured basket in place. If that doesn't clean anything out of the valve, then try a similar thing but with descaler, just stopping after a few seconds so that some descaling solution is sitting in that valve, then wait a few mins.

As to whether it's worth doing the modification on a newish machine, just keep in mind they might use it as an argument for not honoring a warranty on some other part at a later date. I doubt there will be any failure (these machines just keep going and going), but as long as you are OK with that, then it's a very sensible modification.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.


----------



## Dusk

Thanks @AndyDClements, flushing it has improved it so I suspect something was trapped in the valve. There's still a tiny bit of dripping that I think it's had since new. I would be surprised if it had any limescale given its age and because I've been using bottled water as I'm in a fairly hard water area.

Why does flushing it through help clean the valve that doesn't happen with the hot water function? Would they not both send water through in the same manner?


----------



## AndyDClements

Dusk said:


> Why does flushing it through help clean the valve that doesn't happen with the hot water function? Would they not both send water through in the same manner?


 Hi, do you mean why does flushing water out that way work when the steam function doesn't?

The steam valve port is right on the top of the boiler, so it normally only allows steam out, which is forced out by the boiler having heated to way past 100decC. Normal operation of the machine is that you keep the steam valve closed at lower temperatures so it doesn't let out liquid water. As to why I's said to push water out that way, water being more dense than steam has more motive force to move anything rather like how wind can move sand but a river is far more effective at moving sand. Steam would eventually move something but it would be a lot more volume of steam needed for the same effect.


----------



## ratty

FairRecycler said:


> I would definitely recommend it, many people lacking the tools required for this mod. This would make their life much easier, and be honest new valves tend to start leak even sooner than old ones (many people reported leaky valve on new machines even after 1-3 months).


 I took your advice and did the mod on the new valve.

I used a stainless steel round end cap as the material matched the steam valve's matt silver colour.

I also had to drill a 6mm hole in the end and a touch on the hole with a dremel to ensure the stem turned freely.


----------



## FairRecycler

I would rather use brass hex fitting there, for the ease of removal (galvanic corrosion + lack of grip of this option)

With the hex nut, it could be removed & services, without opening up the machine.


----------



## ratty

FairRecycler said:


> I would rather use brass hex fitting there, for the ease of removal (galvanic corrosion + lack of grip of this option)
> 
> With the hex nut, it could be removed & services, without opening up the machine.


 Yes, the Stainless steel was only used for aesthetic purposes. I put anti seize paste on the threads to help corrosion resistance. The round end cap can be quite easily removed by just removing the top by unscrewing the two screws. The round end cap can be loosened with mole grips and then by hand. The cap does not need to be screwed on very tight, just to keep it in the 'locked in' position.

On the gold coloured brass I've been using brass fitting hexagons there.


----------



## FairRecycler

@ratty

I like to tighten these up, to reduce the chance of coming loose due to repeatedly undoing the valve.

Anti seize paste should do the job well.

To me, aesthetics of internal parts isn't a thing really, but obviously that's only me.


----------



## JacksonB

Just wanted to say, if anyones having issues with leaking steam valve that I used Peter's @FairRecycler service via eBay, solved my problem and very quick turnaround, would recommend!


----------



## Ankur

FairRecycler said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks @MartinB for mentioning me here.
> 
> @HDAV
> 
> So far I had no complaints, and I'm doing quite a lot of these.
> 
> It's not a big deal you need a small flat file, or a Dremel, 1.8*4mm viton o ring (2*4mm food grade silicon would do). Drill, vice, flat surface, fine 400-600 grit sand paper, 1/8BSP 19tpi die, same thread locknut, citric acid, and around 1-2 hours if you do it first time.
> 
> No video tutorials yet, as far as I'm aware, but I would be happy to be proven wrong.
> 
> I'm happy to write out a rough guide if you need it.
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Peter


 Hi.peter, im just in the process of attempting this fix myself the 2*4mm o ring that is required is that 4mm i/d and 2mm across? As im a little confused which o ring i should purchase.

Many thanks

Ankur


----------



## larkim

Ankur said:


> Hi.peter, im just in the process of attempting this fix myself the 2*4mm o ring that is required is that 4mm i/d and 2mm across? As im a little confused which o ring i should purchase.
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Ankur


 These are the ones I bought if that helps.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P6MLGSM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


----------



## FairRecycler

Ankur said:


> Hi.peter, im just in the process of attempting this fix myself the 2*4mm o ring that is required is that 4mm i/d and 2mm across? As im a little confused which o ring i should purchase.
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Ankur


 Hi,

Yes, you right. 4mm ID 2mm across.

The ones @larkim just linked are perfect.

Thear however will be a bit tighter to fit the hen the original as that's probably 1.87mm across, but does the job perfectly as kind as you not damaging it upon insertion, hence it is recommended to file off the rough inner edge.


----------



## Ankur

FairRecycler said:


> Hi,
> 
> Yes, you right. 4mm ID 2mm across.
> 
> The ones @larkim just linked are perfect.
> 
> Thear however will be a bit tighter to fit the hen the original as that's probably 1.87mm across, but does the job perfectly as kind as you not damaging it upon insertion, hence it is recommended to file off the rough inner edge.


 Thank you very much. Really appreciate your help


----------



## Ankur

larkim said:


> These are the ones I bought if that helps.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P6MLGSM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


 Thank you larkim you are a super star saved me the bother of searching for them. Everyone on this forum is so nice and helpful really appreciate all the help


----------



## Ankur

Thank ypu @FairRecyclerand @larkimi managed to get all the refurb done and please to report the valve is working great. Appreciate all your help


----------



## AmateurHour

[font color="#e61919"]WARNING[/font]


----------



## AmateurHour

* WARNING *

Amateur strikes again ????????

Thought I would post about my experience to give you seasoned engineers a laugh!

I ended up with an old adjustable die and after my first pass, the nut worked but it seemed a bit wobbly (only during the screw, no movement once fully tightened). The thread peaks were not as defined as the peaks on the valve's other thread (for the steam wand). So, as I was in the mood to play with my new tool, for some reason I thought by closing the die some and giving it another pass, it would make the thread peaks stand up more to give the nut a snug fit. Oh how wrong I was ????‍♂

I only went and tapered it! Now it's too slim for the nut and the entrance has closed over a bit so the brass washer no longer fits ????

I've tested the thread with the addition of masking tape and luckily the nut works perfectly!

I will pick up some proper thread tape, drill a 6mm hole in the blanking nut and maybe try to hammer the washer in... (yes, I'm sure I will only end up damaging that too!)

Anyway, thank you all for this thread. It has certainly taught me a thing or two ????

Special thanks to @FairRecycler


----------



## light87

AndyDClements said:


> @light87 that's showing 12.12mm which is (as you call out) a little small, but I think its well within the range of external diameters for 1/4 BSP for this purpose, and as the die cuts it will likely push some material to form a peak that is a larger diameter than the original of the material. The table will give the metric dimensions https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/bsp-pipe-threads (that table uses the terms Max and Min to refer to the diameter of the peaks of the thread and the troughs of the thread respectively, I'd normally refer to them as Major and Minor). So cutting from 12.12mm wouldn't be as good as doing it from 13mm but considering the purpose is just to stop somebody unscrewing the steam tap, its going to be fine.
> 
> If you do with M12 then the smallest allowable Minor diameter (the diameter of the bottom/ inner of the threads) is 10.6mm, whereas 1/4 BSP is 11.445, so you will cut a little deeper into the brass with a metric thread/ get a little closer to the hole. I'd guess that's OK (I've judged by the photo that the inner is c8mm with 2mm walls). You will have taken the walls from 2mm to 1.3mm thickness (at thinnest point) for which its purpose is to hold in the steam pressure, that seems to be OK given we are only looking at water at 120-130DegC. You will probably need to still take a bit of material off the outside, to get a little less than 12mm in order to get the die on.


 Actually after ahving bought the M12 flat nut I have abandoned the whole thing and I'm trying to do it just now...never had time sadly.

Actually I have tried to use my M12 metric Thread Cutting Die but it doesn't seem to gear on beucase the external diameter of my shaft is 12,1 mm and as you said is obviusly a litte too big.

Any idea of how I can remove 0,5 mm of brass from the external diameter without a lathe?


----------



## El carajillo

A file and clean up with some emery paper wrapped around .


----------



## Rebel

There is no need at all for the nut around the shaft. It really does nothing.


----------



## AndyDClements

The nut does achieve something, it prevents accidentally completely unscrewing the steam valve such that it disengages from the thread. It doesn't achieve anything in normal operation, which I suspect is what @Rebel refers to.

@light87

Regards the use of a file to remove 0.5mm diameter of brass: Be sure to use the correct motion of the file. It's counter-intuitive but don't try and move the file round the circle of the shaft as you push the file. Assuming the brass shaft is beneath the file, push down on the handle as the file moves away from you, allowing the far end of the file to rise up. Sort of make the file go through a "U" shaped path. Use a reasonably coarse file as soft metals tend to clog fine files.


----------



## light87

AndyDClements said:


> @light87
> 
> Regards the use of a file to remove 0.5mm diameter of brass: Be sure to use the correct motion of the file. It's counter-intuitive but don't try and move the file round the circle of the shaft as you push the file. Assuming the brass shaft is beneath the file, push down on the handle as the file moves away from you, allowing the far end of the file to rise up. Sort of make the file go through a "U" shaped path. Use a reasonably coarse file as soft metals tend to clog fine files.


 Actually I haven't get how you sugget to use the file. I have the right file anyway for working the brass.


----------



## ratty

AndyDClements said:


> The nut does achieve something, it prevents accidentally completely unscrewing the steam valve such that it disengages from the thread. It doesn't achieve anything in normal operation, which I suspect is what @Rebel refers to.


 Agree the nut stops the valve from being completely unscrewed that could result in a nasty steam burn and a lot of mess!

The hole in the back of the nut also keeps the shaft central to the bore, minimising the 'wobble' that would be greater without it in place, that could allow potential steam leakage. I drill and dremel out the hole in the brass end caps myself to ensure the shaft is free to turn and also central and parallel to the bore.


----------



## AndyDClements

light87 said:


> Actually I haven't get how you sugget to use the file. I have the right file anyway for working the brass.


 There are two motions that can result in the file surface going in a round motion. I've mad a (poor) diagram of each, red arrows show the change in angle of the file as you go on each stroke, blue show the file being pushed / the stroke. I've done an extreme end position but in reality you'll do shorter strokes.

One is simply to try and file round the piece following it's shape, it sort of achieves much as if the piece were turning in a lathe and you were holding the file still. For that method, you push the file away from you and at the same time you raise the handle of the file, lowering the far end of the file. There is a problem with that method, and that's why I strongly suggest not using it: You can end up just moving the file round but keeping the same bit of file in contact (so no work done after the very first bit of movement, as the file clogs and just rides over the surface), and it's not a natural motion of the arm so it's less likely to flow and be smooth in your action.

The second option (the one I suggest). Start with the file resting on the piece, and as you move the file forward, move the handle downwards (the far end of the file will raise up). It's a more natural movement for the body, you're more likely to get a smooth even stroke, and both actions (moving the file forwards, and, moving the handle downwards) act to bring the piece in contact with the file closer to the handle. There's no way that you can end up with just the same part of the file constantly in contact so the file cannot clog and ride.


----------



## light87

Thank you very much Andy for your scheme and the time you spent doing it. I'll try and let you know.


----------



## light87

I manage to do it, with a file and some abrasive paper, I remove not that much brass, the external diameter goes from 12,1 mm to 11,7mm or 11,8 mm...it depends where you measure it clearly it wasn't perfectly circle for the caliper but seem to be perfectly circle by looking at it.

THe only problem I got has been the M12 nut, it come blind so I need to make an hole on the top but it's not that easy to make a centered hole by hand so I need to make a 8 mm hole while the shaft is just 5,75 mm. Maybe for that I'll ask to some workshop fi they can make me the centered hole more precise ( 6,5 mm should be fine...) as I have more of these M12 flat blind nut.


----------



## ratty

I use a smaller drill bit that's close to the shaft diameter and then open up the hole with a dremel that allows you to centre the hole more accurately.

When you then try and screw on the nut you can see where it fouls the shaft and then open the hole slightly more at that point with the dremel. Eventually the nut will fit fully on the thread allowing free movement when fully opening and closing the shaft.


----------



## HDAV

Just a quick bump to say the refurbished and modded wand is great started leaking again so a quick dismantle (I took the lid off) and internal descale and all good

@FairRecycler are you doing this mod for the GC Pro wands as well? Any differences From the older classics?


----------



## FairRecycler

HDAV said:


> Just a quick bump to say the refurbished and modded wand is great started leaking again so a quick dismantle (I took the lid off) and internal descale and all good
> 
> @FairRecycler are you doing this mod for the GC Pro wands as well? Any differences From the older classics?


 Well done.

The steam valve in the Pro is identical apart from a surface treatment/ coating of the brass. So yes I do the same service on Pro valves too.


----------



## Jezsherwood

Hi guys, perfect thread and thanks for the freedom of info to help us self repair these things.

now being smart I looked up the steam valve to boiler seal size on the web and ordered some from Amazon. It appears they are too small at 12mm od x 8mm Id (2mm thick)

would somebody please let me know the seal size?

on a positive note, the wand no longer leaks 😂😂

cheers, Jez


----------



## FairRecycler

Jezsherwood said:


> Hi guys, perfect thread and thanks for the freedom of info to help us self repair these things.
> 
> now being smart I looked up the steam valve to boiler seal size on the web and ordered some from Amazon. It appears they are too small at 12mm od x 8mm Id (2mm thick)
> 
> would somebody please let me know the seal size?
> 
> on a positive note, the wand no longer leaks 😂😂
> 
> cheers, Jez


 Hi,

BS110 fits perfectly(top line)


----------



## Jezsherwood

You sir are a star, thanks @FairRecycler


----------



## Jezsherwood

Just for info, I bought some 9x15mm and so far so good.

love the internet and love forums!

now deciding whether I should strip the whole machine for a clean and service after all its a 2014 model


----------



## FairRecycler

I owed the community this video for a long time now.
Gaggia Classic & Pro leaky dripping steam valve / wand repair:
I know there are some videos available already on this topic, but I think this is a bit more in depth so probably more useful for some


----------



## Rebel

Excellent video! However the step using the die at 15:12 is unnecessary. The lock nut is not needed because it takes less than one revolution for full steam yet it takes about five revolutions to remove the spindle. Sure do it if you want but many people haven't bothered without problem; the pressure will not unscrew the spindle. Also the re-machining at 20:04 probably isn't needed for the vast majority of steam valves.

FYI you can replace the cheap plastic knob with a wooden Ascaso Uno/Dream knob. It's much larger diameter than the original and Mr. Shades so easier to operate. It's a bit fiddley to install and does not come with the really small hex key needed.


----------



## Alfieboy

Ye Hah @Rebel


----------



## Alfieboy

FairRecycler said:


> I owed the community this video for a long time now.
> Gaggia Classic & Pro leaky dripping steam valve / wand repair:
> I know there are some videos available already on this topic, but I think this is a bit more in depth so probably more useful for some


Great work Peter


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## wahman

Does any one offer a steam valve servicing service in the UK? I think I could do the task as Peter has kindly documented on YT, but I don't have all the tools, and I would be buying them solely for this job. It might be cheaper and less wasteful to pay someone who does this and uses/has the tools already. If so can you please drop me a message with pricing? Thanks!


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## AndyDClements

@FairRecycler ?


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## BBBean

wahman said:


> Does any one offer a steam valve servicing service in the UK? I think I could do the task as Peter has kindly documented on YT, but I don't have all the tools, and I would be buying them solely for this job. It might be cheaper and less wasteful to pay someone who does this and uses/has the tools already. If so can you please drop me a message with pricing? Thanks!


I have carried out four of these repairs as part of Gaggia Classic refurbishment projects, so have purchased required tools and would be pleased to help out. Think you’ll find some of my posts and pics earlier in this thread. Have had a break from coffee machine refurbishment due to other projects but have just started up again so good timing.


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## BBBean

Just checked earlier postings in this thread. Have a look at post #31 which has some pics of the first steam valve modification which I carried out.


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## SamWhits96

wahman said:


> Does any one offer a steam valve servicing service in the UK? I think I could do the task as Peter has kindly documented on YT, but I don't have all the tools, and I would be buying them solely for this job. It might be cheaper and less wasteful to pay someone who does this and uses/has the tools already. If so can you please drop me a message with pricing? Thanks!


Did you manage to get this done? I notice the original eBay link


HDAV said:


> Anyone used this service?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254622590020
> 
> 
> 
> or is it easy enough to diy anyone got a good guide/video?


is no longer available, so just thought I'd ask. I'm in a similar situation to you where I would need to purchase all the tools for this job and can't see myself using them for anything else.

I bought my machine second hand and it came with a leaking valve. Judging by how difficult it was to release the steam valve initially, I would guess that the previous owner had over tightened it in an attempt to fix the leak. Ultimately, I would like to upgrade the steam wand on my machine and so I want to get the valve sorted before I begin.


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## Rebel

SamWhits96 said:


> Did you manage to get this done? I notice the original eBay link
> 
> is no longer available, so just thought I'd ask. I'm in a similar situation to you where I would need to purchase all the tools for this job and can't see myself using them for anything else.
> 
> I bought my machine second hand and it came with a leaking valve. Judging by how difficult it was to release the steam valve initially, I would guess that the previous owner had over tightened it in an attempt to fix the leak. Ultimately, I would like to upgrade the steam wand on my machine and so I want to get the valve sorted before I begin.


It's an easy repair that requires little more than a vise and file (an electric drill is helpful for shaping the tip). There is no need whatsoever to thread the valve and add a nut.


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## PNW_Yankee

This thread has been super helpful so first off a big thanks to all the contributors. I do have a question though. 

I just purchased my first espresso machine, Gaggia RI9303/47, for $180(USD) and for the most part it's good shape but the steam wand was leaking. Well upon closer inspection the tip of the wand wasn't leaking but instead the valve itself was leaking and dripping down the metal to the steam head. 

Is this repairable by following the instructions by @FairRecycler or should I just replace the steam valve unit? Could it be as simple as a broken o-ring in on the spindle?


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## FairRecycler

PNW_Yankee said:


> Is this repairable by following the instructions by @FairRecycler or should I just replace the steam valve unit? Could it be as simple as a broken o-ring in on the spindle?


Hi,
Yes, it is either a worn/perished/broken o ring over the spindle. Or calcification build up at the internal perimeter of the faucet body, contact with the o ring.
So it could definitely be repaired as described above.


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## Steve1M

Peter,

Many thanks for taking the time to put together your excellent video....very much appreciated!!
(correct die, holder, brass stop nut, viton O-ring, all sourced easily on ebay, and delivered within a week.)
-
My main issue was water leaking past the BS008 needle O-ring, when initially filling boiler for each use. (water pouring out of the sheet steel cut out for the steam wand), in addition to steam wand dripping from end.
-
Internal leak now totally fixed, but still have significant dripping from end of steam wand, despite polishing needle tip profile carefully, on 600 grit paper.
-
It looks like the needle seat indeed is a bit ragged, as if I paint the polished tip with a sharpie, and gently screw home, it definitely doesn't mark it with a nice concentric ring on the valve tip, so it will need squaring off.
-
Here is my question:-
-
I have an old Simat modeller's lathe, and drill press.
-
This is obviously my risk, but If I bought a 5mm end mill, can you suggest a reliable set up method to enable me to align/clamp the valve body to be able to squarely remove the chamfer?
-
(I realise it is a tricky operation to get absolutely square, not mashing up the internal threads, or exceeding the maximum 2mm limit, but am wondering what worked for you.)
-
Again, many thanks again for your video....really enjoyed it.
-
Kind regards, Steve


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## FairRecycler

Steve1M said:


> Peter,
> 
> Many thanks for taking the time to put together your excellent video....very much appreciated!!
> (correct die, holder, brass stop nut, viton O-ring, all sourced easily on ebay, and delivered within a week.)
> -
> My main issue was water leaking past the BS008 needle O-ring, when initially filling boiler for each use. (water pouring out of the sheet steel cut out for the steam wand), in addition to steam wand dripping from end.
> -
> Internal leak now totally fixed, but still have significant dripping from end of steam wand, despite polishing needle tip profile carefully, on 600 grit paper.
> -
> It looks like the needle seat indeed is a bit ragged, as if I paint the polished tip with a sharpie, and gently screw home, it definitely doesn't mark it with a nice concentric ring on the valve tip, so it will need squaring off.
> -
> Here is my question:-
> -
> I have an old Simat modeller's lathe, and drill press.
> -
> This is obviously my risk, but If I bought a 5mm end mill, can you suggest a reliable set up method to enable me to align/clamp the valve body to be able to squarely remove the chamfer?
> -
> (I realise it is a tricky operation to get absolutely square, not mashing up the internal threads, or exceeding the maximum 2mm limit, but am wondering what worked for you.)
> -
> Again, many thanks again for your video....really enjoyed it.
> -
> Kind regards, Steve


Hi Steve,
DM sent.


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## Gloucesterkiwi

@FairRecycler Looking to use your Gaggia Classic steam valve refurbishment service - how do I access that?


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## FairRecycler

Gloucesterkiwi said:


> @FairRecycler Looking to use your Gaggia Classic steam valve refurbishment service - how do I access that?


DM sent


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## MaxPickup

Hi, @FairRecycler - Are you still doing the steam valve mod service for the Gaggia Classic? If so, would be interested as I lack the tools and technical nous to do this. Thanks, Max


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## FairRecycler

Hi,
Yes it is available in the UK, I've just sent a DM with the details.


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