# RR55OD programming help (please!)



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

After almost a month of waiting for some burrs I finally have them!

Now, I want to get grinding obviously (who wouldn't?)

So I have a PDF user manual... BUT the instructions for programming aren't seeming to work...

It says power off, power on and wait for the blue LEDs to flash (but I have no blue LEDs!)

Regardless I follow the instructions but no beeping noises are heard (as it says I will) and it's just not happening...

Does anyone have any advice please on programming a green LED-wielding RR55 OD please?

Thanks in anticipation!


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Are you pressing the both buttons in when you turn it on?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Press both button together on turn on and that will let you access the programming first will be singl. When finished, wait then next will be double, when finished turn off and back on and your settings should be stored


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Ok great; thanks. Got it now.

Mine cycles F01 / F02 / C1 / C2 / RST - Is that right?

F01 is presumably the first button, F02 the second, C1 and C2 are shot counters are they? What about RST assume that resets something?


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Mad static though! MAD! Was hoping I wasn't going to be a static victim...


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

Do you have the polished aluminium model?


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

glevum said:


> Do you have the polished aluminium model?


Guilty as charged...

Let me guess - looks nice - but useless huh?!


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Anyone want to buy a bean grinding static generator?

[Mods please don't move/remove this - this is not a genuine For Sale thread...]


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Just find the thread on here that cures it!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Does it have the anti-static flap?

If not then as CC suggests, there is a thread for that particular mod.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

coffeechap said:


> Just find the thread on here that cures it!


I found a thread on that, but I have a plastic - not a metal - flap. My current plan is to butcher a can of Abbott Ale (that I didn't really like when I drank it the other day) and clean manically the inside of the 'funnel'.

Hope that works.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> Does it have the anti-static flap?
> 
> If not then as CC suggests, there is a thread for that particular mod.


It has a little blue piece of plastic.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

jonc said:


> Mine cycles F01 / F02 / C1 / C2 / RST - Is that right?
> 
> F01 is presumably the first button, F02 the second, C1 and C2 are shot counters are they? What about RST assume that resets something?


Any advice on this would be great too (please)!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

jonc said:


> It has a little blue piece of plastic.


My understanding is that this piece of metal is grounded, and as the grinds hit it they loose their static. If this is correct it would make it very unusual to have a plastic flap as it couldn't possibly ground the grinds.

I could of course be wrong....


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> My understanding is that this piece of metal is grounded, and as the grinds hit it they loose their static. If this is correct it would make it very unusual to have a plastic flap as it couldn't possibly ground the grinds.
> 
> I could of course be wrong....


But the grinds bounce off this plastic onto the metal funnel thing and don't lose static - and that funnel is presumably as grounded as the flap would be (probably more so given it's larger surface area contact?)


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

jonc said:


> But the grinds bounce off this plastic onto the metal funnel thing and don't lose static - and that funnel is presumably as grounded as the flap would be (probably more so given it's larger surface area contact?)


Yea, my guess at this was that with the flap, virtually every particle makes contact, where as when it falls through the funnel only some does. It wouldn't of course explain how statically charged grounds can cling to the metal funnel. But there is the basic bit of advice that grounding something removes static, you do this to yourself when you work with electronics for example. Why grounds are able to statically cling to grounded metal is not something I ever found out.

I would like to be enlightened to the science behind it as it would allow for experimentation, but the only solutions from the industry seem to be the RR55 flap and the Mazzer grid.

Edit: something else to note is that if you grind into a plastic container you will struggle with the static produced, but grind into a grounded metal one and the problem is much less. You can also stir charged grounds with a metal teaspoon whilst touching a grounded surface and this will discharge them.


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## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

OK wild theory time. If the grounds come out of the burrs positively charged they perhaps cling to a negatively charged surface (earthed). If they hit a grounded flap, maybe that dissipates the charge as they attempt to cling to it but are knocked off by the ones behind or sheer velocity. When they subsequently hit the sides of the hopper they no longer have as much charge and don't cling. Feel free to shoot me down but this seems like a possible explanation.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I still struggle with static to a greater or lesser extent on mine. I would say that adding a metal flap (beer can) rather than the plastic one certainly does help although I'm not convinced it has anything to do with it being grounded. The angle that you have the flap at i.e. the amount of gap that you leave at the bottom does seem make a big difference. Too little and the grinds back up in the grinding chamber and block the flow, too much and the grind just fly out and spray paint the inside of the funnel. I find a gap of about 4mm seems to be around the point at which I can (sometimes) get a river of ground coffee to flow down the funnel. Problem is its not consistent and as soon as any starts to stick the rest immediately wants to follow suit. Some of this may be that the beer can flap is very flexible so the angle is easily changed, maybe something with less flexibility would work if the perfect initial angle could be set ?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

jonc, just a thought but are you using the hopper on the RR55OD or are you single dosing or using a small quantity of beans in throat ?

I have found that I get less issues with the grinds sticking to the funnel (although not none) if I use a weight on top of the beans. I use an old tamper at the moment but have to use it upside down i.e. the handle downwards, as its base is 53mm and the throat of the grinder is only 50mm in diameter. I really need to get a cheap 50mm tamper


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks. Though it's not in general use so I'm actually doing nothing fixed yet. Will definitely bear in mind.

What do you all make of this theory?: http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/ross-droplet-technique-eliminating-grinder-static-t24051-90.html


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Yep tried RDT , used to just dip my finder in a cup of water and then stir the beans in the throat with it. It's difficult to say if it helped or not and certainly didn't completely eliminate the static. I think it's probably more aimed at beans that are prone to static rather than a grinder that seems to introduce static.

Even if it had worked I would probably still have wanted to find another way as the whole idea (for me) of having an on-demand grinder is to make the grinding process quicker and less hassel, not add another procedure to the coffee making ritual.

Give it a try jonc bit don't use too much water, only a drop or two.

To be honest the best improvements I've had is from adding weight to the beans, getting the angle of the flap right and polishing the inside of the funnel with Peek polish.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Going back to the programming question... Do timer settings get lost on power down or unplug please?


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

jonc said:


> Going back to the programming question... Do timer settings get lost on power down or unplug please?


Any one know please?


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

I think I've sorted this - and static issues - and as a bonus the wife is happy with the grinder being in the kitchen - unexpected and another result. A good day.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

How did you solve the static issues


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

With mass tweaks to the beer can flap design.


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

Chaps, with regards to the static issues with the Brasilia, you would need to spray the beans before grinding.

I bought a tiny spray bottle from Ebay, filled with tap water, and spray twice on the top of the beans before grinding. COMPLETELY free of static problems.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

truecksuk said:


> Chaps, with regards to the static issues with the Brasilia, you would need to spray the beans before grinding.
> 
> I bought a tiny spray bottle from Ebay, filled with tap water, and spray twice on the top of the beans before grinding. COMPLETELY free of static problems.


Thanks - but think the word 'need' is wrong here - since *at the moment* it's solved and I have sprayed nothing anywhere...


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

jonc said:


> Thanks - but think the word 'need' is wrong here - since *at the moment* it's solved and I have sprayed nothing anywhere...


How did you manage to do it?


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

truecksuk said:


> How did you manage to do it?





jonc said:


> With mass tweaks to the beer can flap design.


I put a 'v' in it to channel it centrally - the speed of the grinds falling seems to overcome the static...


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

pics!







I'm very interested as I've been working with the water for some time now.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

OK I was wrong. Mr Static is back.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

It's better than it was, but not great; will get tweaking.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

coffeechap said:


> How did you solve the static issues


Any other ideas please?! All welcome; I've been waiting 8 months for this grinder so be nice to get it de-static-ified and working - ta!


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

jonc said:


> Any other ideas please?! All welcome; I've been waiting 8 months for this grinder so be nice to get it de-static-ified and working - ta!


get that water spray going bud!


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

truecksuk said:


> get that water spray going bud!


OH NO! Guess I may have to.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

This is the worst time of year for static as the air is very dry. You may find you need a couple of sprays during these cold months, but in the summer you wont have any issues.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> This is the worst time of year for static as the air is very dry. You may find you need a couple of sprays during these cold months, but in the summer you wont have any issues.


I hope you're right! So do I just spray over the top of the beans?

p.s. I'm assuming this doesn't do anything nasty to electrics/burrs/internals?


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Just a thought, but have you tried a corrugated flap? Idea being to increase the surface area that the beans are hitting.

I would imagine you mix in the misting of water, but its not something I have done myself.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

OK thanks, not tried corrugations - yet!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

As Dylan said, the weather and time of year can make a huge difference. This morning was a bad day for static for me whereas yesterday seemed quite good.

Presumably having the central heating on also doesn't help but the wife won't be happy at me turning that off in order to get a better grind


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

You need to have a word with her about priorities.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

jonc said:


> Going back to the programming question... Do timer settings get lost on power down or unplug please?


I'm sure you've already discovered the answer but as I didn't see anyone respond, the answer is no they don't get lost and survive turning the grinder off or even unplugging it.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

marcuswar said:


> I'm sure you've already discovered the answer but as I didn't see anyone respond, the answer is no they don't get lost and survive turning the grinder off or even unplugging it.


I actually hadn't discovered that - so thanks - I actually thought they got lost but it's possible I hadn't figured out the correct process.

What's your flap made of - if that's not too personal a question?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Presumably after setting the time you just left the menu to timeout? I always just turn the grinder off and back on again as seems quicker than waiting for the setup to timeout.

Also I'm sure you already know but the best way of setting up the time is to have the single does button set to 1 second so you can use that to flush the grinder chamber in the morning and also to act a small "top up" if required. When dialling in a bean its best to ignore the timer at first and concentrate on getting the actual grind correct and manually weigh the appropriate amount of coffee into your basket. Once you've got your required grind you can then adjust the double shot to the required time to get that dose.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

I had exactly the same issue with my RR55OD grinds stuck to the funnel like you know what to a blanket and some.

I replaced the plastic flap with one of those thin copper plant labels you can by at B&Q for a couple of quid. I even isolated the funnel from the main body of the grinder with some very thin rubber (cut from my other half's band she uses for her Palates) but initially to no avail. Grinds still stuck!

Then after some discussion on here and a bit of tweaking ensuring the flap was no more than about 4 to 5 mill away from the exit hole the grinds now flow as fast and freely as lemmings jumping off a cliff with not a grind to be found left behind clinging on for dear life on the funnel as you can see below.









As for timer settings I don't find mine loses the memory when switched off completely and back on again.


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

Ok, so I've got me one of them there RR55OD things which is awesome. I've added a bit of theraband to isolate the funnel and put in the brass plant pot label. Static is a lot less than yesterday so partial win. But, still getting a fair bit stuck in the burr chamber. Is this backing up as I haven't 'dialled in' the brass flap? Pompeyexile, is your flap double kinked so that it has a mostly even gap from top to bottom or is it just bent below the screws to give a steady increase in gap?


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Sorry for not responding sooner. I tried all sorts of ways to get what I thought would work, creasing the brass label into a sort of funnel away from the exit hole but in the end all I've done is shape and flatten the whole thing (keeping to the curve of the funnel's shape) as close to the hole as possible and then just pulled it out from the bottom so there is about a 4 to 5 mil gap.

Yes some grinds do stay in the exit chute which will be partly due to the restriction put on the chute by the copper flap (remember the original plastic flap sat high above the exit chute and merely deflected the grinds without actually blocking the hole) but not enough to block it completely and I think because the exit chute doesn't slope down, relying on the force of the rotating burrs grinding the beans to throw the grinds out. I then use a tooth pick which I give a wiggle left and right in the hole to pull out any grinds left lurking.

Now I could leave the residue grinds in the chute but then I don't get the full beans in grinds out. I could put in more beans to get the exact 18g of grinds out but I'm tight and can go a couple of days before using it again which would make those grinds left in the chute stale. Sounds a faff but it's just part of my grinding regime sticking my toothpick in and giving it a wiggle and takes seconds.

Not perfect but it works for me.


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

Hi. That's cool. I'll just continue to fiddle with my flap. Fnar fnar! And get the cocktail stick in action.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Careful when using the toothpick, I find that even the smallest of changes to the flap angle can change everything. Sticking the tooth pick up behind it whilst trying not to actually touch it seems akin to trying to play "operation".

If I could find the perfect flap angle I'd be temped to make a cast of the flap shape/angle and make another permanent flap out of something less flexible and easily knocked out of adjustment.

I started a new bag of beans (Mocha Italia) over Christmas and just can't get them to flow... static city! No amount of flap fiddling seems to help.... grrrr

Are dark roasts more prone to static than lighter roasts ?


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

I'm no authority on dark v light yet as have only been running the foundry roasters finca las menina which is quite nice. I'm noticing a different, fuller flavour compared to the skerton I was using although I've lost some of the sweetness I was getting but I guess it's just a case of getting the beans dialled in right and possibly a longer/ shorter extraction.

I tried the drops of water today and that seemed to help a lot with the static but it's that annoying bit that gets stuck in the exit chute.

I'm wondering if I can fashion some sort of chute that would fit inside and point the grounds down into the funnel as it's almost as if it's that cavity where the grounds are sprayed into that generates the static.


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