# Refurbishing 2001 Classic



## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Stripped down the machine this morning and it's as much as I enjoy in a day. Going to have a beer now!

The black OPV pipe is going to a plastic connection underneath the power connection at the back of the machine. It looks like a pipe may need to be attached to the other side where the water tank is. Or is a pipe not required (there wasn't one there)? Usually the pipe exits on one of the two holes on the right hand side(looking from the front)

Anyone know?

Thanks, obviously not an immediate problem. I enjoy doing just around an hour's work a day!


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

This version was like this black pipe from OPV to plastic bit, so all is in original state. From what I see it will be more like a pimp project than refurbishment because it looks in mint condition.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

L&R said:


> This version was like this black pipe from OPV to plastic bit, so all is in original state. From what I see it will be more like a pimp project than refurbishment because it looks in mint condition.


 Yes, think I agree with you.

All bolts seem pretty new and the main switches have no wear on them. The others I've done have the white markings partly rubbed off where they've been pressed.

Boiler and head look particularly shiny too.

Will strip them apart tomorrow probably and I think there will be no problems with them.

Do you know if a pipe was supposed to be connected to the plastic 'bit' into the water tank?


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

Yes from OPV to plastic is connected. Plastic drips backwater directly into the water tank.

BR


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

L&R said:


> Yes from OPV to plastic is connected. Plastic drips backwater directly into the water tank.
> 
> BR


 I meant from plastic connector into tank, or does it just drip from the plastic connector underneath the bottom panel into the tank?


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

In the tank you have only one tube so just drip, it was like this for all pre-stainless steel machines. You have and a good Parker 3way


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

Think I've got the same model its a 2002, there's no pipe it just runs straight into the reservoir. I did wonder the same as you but after looking at a few google images they all appear to be like that.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Split boiler from head group, bolts all shot and plenty of scale around.

Solenoid bolts came off with a bit of elbow. One of the OPV bolts wouldn't play ball and bolt rounded off. Luckily removed it with mole grips in vice. Externals seemed to have been well looked after, internals another story! Not attempting to strip down the OPV today, sprayed a bit of lube on hex screw and threads for now, let that soak in.

Up until now new bolts required, Grouphead and boiler seals, shower plate holder and shower screen.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

After soaking the OPV in thread lube, cleaned it out this morning and 'up-ended' it in Puly Caff so the top threads and the pressure adjuster screw were just immersed in the liquid (to avoid soaking the rubber inside). I didn't want to unscrew it yet as I could see scale on the threads.

After an hour or two, used my trusty steel kebab skewer with the bent point, to remove the softened scale from the threads.

The hex head screw then flew out. I took this much care as I have had one previously rip the brass thread out, trying to remove the screw.

Ok moved onto something else for a change rather than starting on the Solenoid.

Drilled and punched out the 40mm hole for the front pressure gauge and the 2.3 by 2.3mm slot at the bottom of the hole to enable the gauge to fit in position.

Enough for today now. Going to tidy up tools (I'm very messy!) have a coffee and then a couple of beers.


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## jaffro (Oct 6, 2015)

Very nice.

I'm also wrestling with an OPV at the moment... It's come apart in the past, but think it's because I'm trying to take it apart without the machine holding it still. I'm also keen not to break anything!

Might do similar to you and soak it for a bit to take it apart. I know its set to a good pressure, but if I'm taking the time to refurb the machine I may as well do it properly.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

I've just done a similar clean and couldn't get inside the OPV - are you supposed to be able to unscrew it and see the spring? Mine got tight as I unscrewed it, I wasn't sure if that's meant to happen of if the spring is getting mangled inside there


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Michael87 said:


> I've just done a similar clean and couldn't get inside the OPV - are you supposed to be able to unscrew it and see the spring? Mine got tight as I unscrewed it, I wasn't sure if that's meant to happen of if the spring is getting mangled inside there


 Sorry for late reply. I missed the posts on this thread until now, didn't get an email reminder.

I've been waiting on parts arriving and the Stainless Steel anti-seize, food lube threading paste arrived yesterday, after an 8 day wait! I couldn't start the rebuild without it as I'm applying it to all threads on both surfaces, bolts and female threads.

Back on track now. Hope you got over your OPV problem? I did answer the question a couple of posts up in this thread, about what steps are needed to not strip the fine brass thread in the OPV, if it's scaled up.

More to come on the 2001 rebuild later today.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

So new parts eventually arrived trickling in over the last week.

I bought stainless steel bolts 316 grade (A4) as opposed to the 314 (A2) grade stainless steel. The 316 (aka Marine grade) higher spec stainless steel should be used in chlorine environments and temperatures above 50 -60°c. We also need to do all we can to lessen galling and galvanic corrosion. I'm using (Rocol) stainless steel food lube threading paste and anti seize, on all the threads on the machine so hopefully everything will come apart even after a number of years, without the problems lots of us get, when working on coffee machines.

On all new seals and o rings I use Molykote 111 as the lubrication.

After cleaning up the boiler and group, stripping the OPV and the Solenoid valve I've reassembled them. New seals and o rings all round. A new shower screen holder and shower screen. Using old shower screen cleaned up for setting purposes, new screen is due today.


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## NitJay (May 18, 2020)

Looks great, thanks for notes on opv as well, didn't realise mine had seized, followed your advice and got it apart and all the scale out.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

ratty said:


> Sorry for late reply. I missed the posts on this thread until now, didn't get an email reminder.
> 
> I've been waiting on parts arriving and the Stainless Steel anti-seize, food lube threading paste arrived yesterday, after an 8 day wait! I couldn't start the rebuild without it as I'm applying it to all threads on both surfaces, bolts and female threads.
> 
> ...


 Thank you

I'll give this a go later today. Is there an easy way to get the OPV off without draining/removing the boiler? Last time I unscrewed the tube from the pump the water fell out all over the machine!


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

You can get the OPV off in situ.

A bit awkward but use a long arm 4mm hex key and undo the two bolts that attach it to the group head.

Do it when the machine is cold, purely to make life easier!

Must admit I've never done this as I've always took it off after removing the Boiler and group head from the machine, so I don't know what the water leakage would be.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

Thanks. Managed to get it off by tipping the machine face down then disconnecting from the group head, then the pump. But after 2 hours soaking in puly and a good scrub of the inside thread, still can't unscrew it. It gets very stiff about 6 threads from the top. Have ordered some WD-40 penetrant spray to loosen it.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Machine back together and just testing everything for leaks etc, all is good!

While I had the boiler out and OPV stripped, I reset the screw that controls the pressure. I've found using a vernier depth gauge, a setting of 11.5mm from the top of the OPV to the top of the adjustment screw gets you very near the required pressure of 10 bar. It saves all the faffing around counting turns of the screw. After checking the pressure with the 11.5mm depth in this case no further setting was required.

Pictures of the pressure gauge checked with the blind basket in the portafilter and the inside with the top off .


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Looking good!!

Is that a glycerin filled gauge? The gauge on my Classic 'bounces' around when the pump is on, would prefer it to be less scatty.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

No it's not a glycerine filled gauge. It's the one sold on ebay from the Shock waves shop. It looks like it's not an actual shop as the address is a house in Leamington Spa. It would be handy for me if it was a shop as i'm only 10 miles away and they sell a lot of stuff at a decent price.

I try and keep a fair distance away from the pump with the connection, and the copper rod on a clear as possible path. Don't know if that helps lowering the vibration?


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

First coffee out using the slim drip tray with scales underneath.

Will have a further 'play' tomorrow and about ready then to put it back on the forum for sale.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Michael87 said:


> I've just done a similar clean and couldn't get inside the OPV - are you supposed to be able to unscrew it and see the spring? Mine got tight as I unscrewed it, I wasn't sure if that's meant to happen of if the spring is getting mangled inside there


 It won't be the spring getting mangled.

If you haven't managed removing the hex screw yet, I would screw it in a few turns and then soak the threads with puly caff by turning the OPV upside down and soaking it in a small cup of the mixture for a couple of hours, ensuring the liquid doesn't get much higher than the top of the hex screw (which is now at the bottom if you know what I mean!)

Then try and chase the individual brass threads with a bent steel 'pointy thing' to remove any detritus in the root and the flanks of the visible threads.

I use a spray tin of compressed air to clear the threads for visibility.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Bent steel 'pointy thing' under protective custody of the mice until next required.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

Nice project. The pressure gauge totally changes the machine, it is great to know the actual pressure you are brewing at.

Is there any particular reason for the pump pressure to be at 10 bars with blind basket?

When you brewed the coffee the pump pressure was quite low, was it the grind size?


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I'm not 100% sure on that. I was using a very good but difficult coffee that I even have problems with on the Vesuvius slowing down the extraction rate. I will be trying different coffees today (no time yesterday!) and will let you know the outcome with 'normal' coffees. I assume the pressure drops as the time increases with less resistance in the puck. Time was at 29 secs.

The pressure of 10 bar is the recommended pressure with a blind basket (static pressure) as the manufacturer sets the pressure at 15 bar for coffee bags which is too high for ground coffee!


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

I'm thinking of installing a panel mounted gauge but the pump causes quite alot of vibration. I think my machines about a similar age as yours so not sure if its something you've noticed and if it causes the needle to jump about at all? I was looking at maybe getting a glycerin filled one but not sure it's really necessary


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I installed one the same on another machine that jumped about quite a bit but this one seems quite vibration free.

If you get the one from ebay it's £29.99 and includes the fittings, so you only have to cut the hole in the front and the pipe coming out the pump, saves a lot of faffing around.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Panel-Mount-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-for-Gaggia-Classic-Coffee-Machine/401291645239?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

They've sold a lot and seem to sell at least a couple per week. Seem to have 13 left at the moment and when I wanted one I had to wait a couple of weeks until they had them back in stock.


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

ratty said:


> I installed one the same on another machine that jumped about quite a bit but this one seems quite vibration free.
> 
> If you get the one from ebay it's £29.99 and includes the fittings, so you only have to cut the hole in the front and the pipe coming out the pump, saves a lot of faffing around.
> 
> ...


 Did you look at any other integrated gauge styles? I'm curious if there is any difference in quality. Are they all the same hole size?

Can you briefly describe your procedure for drilling the hole for the gauge?


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## hotCUPPA (Sep 24, 2019)

Nicely done! If not too much trouble for you, may I ask you for a tools list that you used here? Am thinking of doing the same, and wondering what tools would I need. Cheers and well done.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

The gauges are different hole sizes. They don't want to make life too easy do they?

This is how I do it, there are various methods as well, such as a hole saw attached to a drill. There are various qualities of these, cheap ones not so good.

They leave a larger burr than hole punches.

*Using hole punches*

Centre punch centre spot.

Drill pilot 3mm Tungsten Carbide tipped drill bit

Drill 8mm Tungsten carbide tipped drill bit

14mm Screw hole punch (needs an 8mm hole for initial access of hex head bolt hence the 8mm drill bit)

40mm Screw hole punch (needs 14mm hole for initial access of hex head bolt)

Deburr

Diamond file for 2.3 by 2.3mm slot.


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

ratty said:


> I installed one the same on another machine that jumped about quite a bit but this one seems quite vibration free.
> 
> If you get the one from ebay it's £29.99 and includes the fittings, so you only have to cut the hole in the front and the pipe coming out the pump, saves a lot of faffing around.
> 
> ...


 Ok thanks👍🏻. I prefer the dial layout on your one but I may still go with a glycerin filled option just to be safe, the machine vibrates quite a bit. I'm not sure if some pumps are worse than others. Would seriously bug me if it was flickering though 😅


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Oli986 said:


> Ok thanks👍🏻. I prefer the dial layout on your one but I may still go with a glycerin filled option just to be safe, the machine vibrates quite a bit. I'm not sure if some pumps are worse than others. Would seriously bug me if it was flickering though 😅


 Make sure you check what hole size is required on whatever gauge you decide on.

If you go the hole punch route, a larger hole punch may need a larger initial drilled hole to fit the hex head bolt of the hole punch.

Lots of DIY drills only open to 12mm so if you want to drill 14mm or whatever, you need a shank maximum 12mm to fit in drill chuck.


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

Yeah I'll be sure to do that. Measure twice cut once! Not the sort of thing you get a second chance at 😂


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

John Yossarian said:


> Nice project. The pressure gauge totally changes the machine, it is great to know the actual pressure you are brewing at.
> 
> Is there any particular reason for the pump pressure to be at 10 bars with blind basket?
> 
> When you brewed the coffee the pump pressure was quite low, was it the grind size?


 @John Yossarian

My apologies, it was the grind size giving a low pressure reading. Went tighter on the Niche and the result was as shown


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

Nice to see instructions and discussion. Hopefully some others might chime in about whether we should be careful with choosing which gauge to use (liquid filled or not).


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

ratty said:


> @John Yossarian
> 
> My apologies, it was the grind size giving a low pressure reading. Went tighter on the Niche and the result was as shown
> 
> View attachment 40918


 It looks perfect now and I am sure the coffee was tasty too . Whoever gets it will be pleased with the result.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

As shown in the picture above, the needle is now vibrating slightly, although to me not a major concern.


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## John Yossarian (Feb 2, 2016)

ratty said:


> As shown in the picture above, the needle is now vibrating slightly, although to me not a major concern.


 I think the needle vibrates due to the vibration pump (pun unintended, simply stating the obvious 😋) as with a rotary pump I have not witnessed it. Glycerol filled manometer would have damped vibration but it will not be totally gone.


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

ratty said:


> I installed one the same on another machine that jumped about quite a bit but this one seems quite vibration free.
> 
> If you get the one from ebay it's £29.99 and includes the fittings, so you only have to cut the hole in the front and the pipe coming out the pump, saves a lot of faffing around.
> 
> ...


 Is there a reason why you picked this gauge in particular?

For others, I compiled a quick listing of pressure gauges on ebay:



White back with green and red arcs: £29.99 via shock_waves_shop: 40mm hole


All white dial £34.99 via shock_waves_shop: 41mm hole


Orman black face with green and red arc: £34.99 via shock_waves_shop: 39mm hole


Liquid-filled white back with black and red arcs: £34.99 via shock_waves_shop: 42mm hole


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

phario said:


> Is there a reason why you picked this gauge in particular?
> 
> For others, I compiled a quick listing of pressure gauges on ebay:
> 
> ...


 No, not really though some I believe take more work connecting up. Plus I only have a 40mm hole punch and don't at this moment want to buy another or grind out to 41 or 42mm or weld down to 39mm! 🤣

By the way shockwaves are out of the £29.99 gauge and don't expect stock for around 3 weeks.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

ratty said:


> It won't be the spring getting mangled.
> 
> If you haven't managed removing the hex screw yet, I would screw it in a few turns and then soak the threads with puly caff by turning the OPV upside down and soaking it in a small cup of the mixture for a couple of hours, ensuring the liquid doesn't get much higher than the top of the hex screw (which is now at the bottom if you know what I mean!)
> 
> ...


 Thanks - got tired with the puly not doing much, and didn't have a great bent needle (wife is not happy I already snapped one pin), so I just lobbed a load of WD-40 in there and 30 minutes later it was out!


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Michael87 said:


> Thanks - got tired with the puly not doing much, and didn't have a great bent needle (wife is not happy I already snapped one pin), so I just lobbed a load of WD-40 in there and 30 minutes later it was out!


 Well done!

That did the trick then.

I'm just off to pick up another Classic from Solihull.

Glutton for punishment. (keeps me out of trouble!)


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## Skizz (Feb 10, 2020)

ratty said:


> I'm just off to pick up another Classic from Solihull.
> 
> Glutton for punishment. (keeps me out of trouble!)


 'Ratty's Refurbs'. When does the website launch? 😀


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Skizz said:


> 'Ratty's Refurbs'. When does the website launch? 😀


 How to lose at least £20 to £30 on every sale. Yes, makes perfect business sense! 🙄

Seriously just into it for the fun.

Latest machine looks a stunner. 2013, a new one for me!

Not looked inside yet, I've put it away for now, waiting until after I've finished the 2001 jobbie.


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## Michael87 (Sep 20, 2019)

I'm sure you could offer this as a service on this forum. Gaggia refurbs!


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Michael87 said:


> I'm sure you could offer this as a service on this forum. Gaggia refurbs!


 I think there's a few on the forum do it as an actual business.

Think I prefer operating as I do with no timescales involved. Been there, done that in a previous life!

Always open to any offers though, as long as someone doesn't want it doing yesterday.


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## Oli986 (Apr 24, 2020)

ratty said:


> How to lose at least £20 to £30 on every sale. Yes, makes perfect business sense! 🙄
> 
> Seriously just into it for the fun.
> 
> ...


 Not charging for time and effort is one thing but I hope you at least cover your costs, that's only fair. Once complete it's going to be a decent machine for someone.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I decided to finish off the machine by ordering a Cafelet silicone group seal and a Rancilio steam wand to complete the modifications. They are due between Tuesday and Thursday and I will then put it for sale, at I think, a reasonable price.

So I removed the steam wand in preparation and it doesn't have the plastic end piece on the pipe to allow the removal of the nut, for swapping with the Rancilio nut.

So it looks like the pipe will have to be cut as opposed to straightened slightly to force the nut over the bend, which I'm loathe to do, destroy an original part!

I will probably leave that decision to the new owner and leave the Gaggia steam wand on for now and send off the new wand with the machine. It maybe possible to source a new nut, rather than cutting the original pipe? I had a quick look but decided Enough is enough!

It looks like the pipe is all one piece unless others know differently?

Just come across 2 used steam wands on ebay for £15 but only one has the nut on! Too rich for me.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

The pipe and connections look in fantastic condition for 19 years old.

I wouldn't have the heart to cut this open to release its inner spoils! 🤔😬🤪🤣


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Well that didn't last long!

Parts arrived today and I cut the gaggia steam wand to release the nut and fitted the Rancilio steam wand.

New Cafelat silicone gasket, new filter holder and new filter screen


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## Valkyrie88 (May 3, 2020)

ratty said:


> So new parts eventually arrived trickling in over the last week.
> 
> *I bought stainless steel bolts 316 grade *(A4) as opposed to the 314 (A2) grade stainless steel. The 316 (aka Marine grade) higher spec stainless steel should be used in chlorine environments and temperatures above 50 -60°c. We also need to do all we can to lessen galling and galvanic corrosion. I'm using (Rocol) *stainless steel food lube *threading paste *and* *anti seize*, on all the threads on the machine so hopefully everything will come apart even after a number of years, without the problems lots of us get, when working on coffee machines.
> 
> On all new seals and o rings I use *Molykote 111 as the lubrication.*


 Hi @ratty , dam you really are paying attention to the finer details! Any chance you can advise on the best place to get the same bolts please?

Oh whilst I'm here can I ask for your opinion on my thread regarding chrome flaking when you have a spare min...[ Gaggia Boiler / Group Head Chrome Flakes ].


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

Valkyrie88 said:


> Hi @ratty , dam you really are paying attention to the finer details! Any chance you can advise on the best place to get the same bolts please?
> 
> Oh whilst I'm here can I ask for your opinion on my thread regarding chrome flaking when you have a spare min...[ Gaggia Boiler / Group Head Chrome Flakes ].


 @ratty conveniently answered this question for me in a PM: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mmØ-CAP-SCREWS-HEX-SOCKET-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-A4-MARINE-GRADE-STAINLESS-STEEL/161017654476?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=460170045401&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Valkyrie88 said:


> Hi @ratty , dam you really are paying attention to the finer details! Any chance you can advise on the best place to get the same bolts please?
> 
> Oh whilst I'm here can I ask for your opinion on my thread regarding chrome flaking when you have a spare min...[ Gaggia Boiler / Group Head Chrome Flakes ].


 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mmØ-CAP-SCREWS-HEX-SOCKET-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-A4-MARINE-GRADE-STAINLESS-STEEL/161017654476?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=460170045401&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

As others said, nothing you can really do.

Re-Chroming would cost more to get done properly than buying a new group head!


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## Valkyrie88 (May 3, 2020)

Thanks both will order a batch of these now, genius idea given the severity and commonality of corrosion in this region.

For the help of others reading this thread in future, we are discussing the next best step after discovering initial stages of flaking of the chrome layer inside the group head:









I agree re-chroming sounds complex and costly.....and probably not a popular option for most 'average' gaggia owners.

So leave as is and start saving for a replacement.....or force it all off?


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I wouoak in puly caff or cafiza overnight and what doesn't come off leave it, and put back together.

Just my opinion though.


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