# EK43 Check/Maintenance



## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

The other day I bought a Probat branded EK43 as kindly pointed out on the spotted section.

It would not turn but on removing the section behind the grinding chamber and pulling the rear section out a little (it is restricted by wires) we managed to free it quite easily and it now runs.

It is unused but was built in August 2008 and has been stored in its box since. It seems that it probably spent some of that time in a cold garage resulting in a bit of moisture and what seems to be very light corrosion.

I've taken a bit of a chance on it but at a price where if it all turns out well it is a bargain.

Rather than just use it I wish to partly dismantle and properly inspect it. I wish to remove any light surface corrosion, clean and re-grease appropriate parts and replace any if necessary.

When I took it back having found it not to be working I suggested we remove the front section as mentioned above to see if we could get it working. The seller could not find his socket set so the nuts were removed with a spanner, which left them less than pristine. Also these are painted with the screws and bolts in place so they look a bit messy once they've been undone. I'm therefore replacing various fixings with stainless as it doesn't cost a lot and it will look better.

I shall also replace the adjustment dial with a finer scale.

Before I begin I have a couple of questions having studied the parts diagram linked to here (I have a later version but couldn't find a link to that):

http://www.kaffemekka.dk/upload_dir/shop/tilbehoer_og_reservedele/mahlkoenig/mahlkonig-ek43-spareparts.pdf

Looking at page 8, if I want to pull the motor assembly out, is it just a case of removing the front sections and the split retaining ring from the rear and carefully sliding it out?

Does part number 13 have any wires/electrical connections to it? If I remove the long threaded rods is it simple to put this back in place properly when reassembling?

What exactly is part number 14?

What food sage grease is recommended (presumably only required for the front section)?

If anyone has disassembled one of these are there any pitfalls to be aware of?

I shall post some pictures when I start this.

Thanks


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## bongo (Apr 20, 2014)

RE your ? What food sage grease is recommended (presumably only required for the front section)?

My EK book just says food safe grease or vaseline. I'm guessing vaseline (or petrolium jelly by another name) will be cheapest and easiest to find.


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

The official grease used by Mahlkoenig is Klüber Paste UH1 84-201


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Vaseline is the one recommended in my EK manual but I use Loxeal which I use for my LI.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

I have some Vaseline to use for now as it's only the front section but the Loxeal might be worth getting for around the shaft area.

This just arrived:

















It's the silver version which is not shown on their site. It has a light brushed metal look to it.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Ok so some 'out of the box' photos:

















This shows the label showing it is an EK43 and you can see that the top of the sticker where Mahlkonig would have been has simply been cut off even leaving the adhesive behind.









The burrs before cleaning (they are tested with coffee at the factory so have some residue from new)


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

The front section removed

































Base removed to show the electronics:


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

That's a very different looking pre breaker isn't it?


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Front section refitted having cleaned and re-greased everything









Most of the external fixings changed to stainless steel









I wanted to remove the rotor but the circlip pliers I have aren't big enough for the rear circlip and in trying to use them they slipped and I scratched the paint at the rear so decided not to keep trying and reassemble an test it.

It has an EU Schuko plug. I tried it with a standard EU adapter and it worked. I then fitted an earthed Schuko adapter and it then tripped the mains on start up. I tried the other adapter again briefly and got a small shock off the case.

I decided that rather than try and disassemble it further myself I would visit my engineer friend. I've just got back.

We removed the circlip from the rear and carefully tapped the rotor shaft out of the rear bearing. There was some light corrosion on the rotor and slots which was presumably why it was originally stuck. This is the rotor:









You can see the centrifugal switch actuator which moves towards the end as the motor gets to speed switching a switch which presumably either disconnects the start-up capacitor or changes the winding circuit (I'm not sure). All looking great.









The above is the switch. The plastic part of the centrifugal switch mechanism pushes against the prongs and the contacts touch. This is where the problem was found. The black wire is virtually severed and the earth insulation damaged which will be the cause of the short.









I know how this happened. As I have already mentioned, when I took it back as it was seized I decided the best thing to do was try and free it whilst with the seller. It was awkward as he removed the front and back whilst I watched and the back could only be moved rearwards a bit due to the front fan. He rotated it to free the rotor (which worked) but in doing this the wires would have been moved out of place and he also put it back rotated out of position. The rotating back and for and/or putting it back out of position (I would have noted this first but it was awkward as not me doing it) has trapped the wires and damaged them.

Adam was in the middle of another job when I visited and didn't have soldering gear to hand. I could have taken it back with me and repaired the wires but decided to leave it with him as although refitting the shaft into the bearing should be very simple I decided I'd prefer to let him do it so I'll ick it up next week.

He offered to have all the parts of the parts except the motor housing blasted and then anodised or powder coated black and then we could paint the motor housing and we discussed other ideas such as shortening it like the LE edition or even making new short legs. It is tempting but I don't currently need it to be shorter. We agreed the best thing is to repair the wires then for me to use it for a while and see how I get on with it then I (he) can potentially modify it in future. Having said that I do have my Anfim currently so in some ways it would make sense to crack on with it I suppose.

In response to above post

I now understand its function properly

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_switch


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

So I picked it up today.

Wiring sorted:









A video I was sent once it was reassembled and tested:

http://vid612.photobucket.com/albums/tt210/1502dan/Mobile%20Uploads/VID-20160810-WA0000.mp4

After getting it home and having removed the original scale sticker and fitted the 3FE version (I ended up removing the strips of double sided tape and cutting some decent stuff I have to fit the whole area).

Some pictures of it as it is now with most of the fittings replaced with stainless and having zeroed the burrs:

































I can't to try it though I have read that these burrs can take 15kg to bed in. I'm not sure whether or not that's true. Now I just have to work out where I'm going to put the beast.


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

dan1502 said:


> A video I was sent once it was reassembled
> 
> I can't to try it though I have read that these burrs can take 15kg to bed in. I'm not sure whether or not that's true. Now I just have to work out where I'm going to put the beast.


I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

dan1502 said:


> A video I was sent once it was reassembled
> 
> I can't to try it though I have read that these burrs can take 15kg to bed in. I'm not sure whether or not that's true. Now I just have to work out where I'm going to put the beast.


I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

dan1502 said:


> A video I was sent once it was reassembled
> 
> I can't to try it though I have read that these burrs can take 15kg to bed in. I'm not sure whether or not that's true. Now I just have to work out where I'm going to put the beast.


I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

dan1502 said:


> A video I was sent once it was reassembled
> 
> I can't to try it though I have read that these burrs can take 15kg to bed in. I'm not sure whether or not that's true. Now I just have to work out where I'm going to put the beast.


I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

risky said:


> I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


The zero point changed on mine after 15/20 kg


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

risky said:


> I don't believe any bedding in is needed? @Xpenno @Mrboots2u ?


The zero point changed on mine after 15/20 kg


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Nice one - get yourself a heap of stale beans from an obliging roaster to help bed in the burrs.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Ok, that's cool. Good results to be exepected from the off then.


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Shots will get better as burrs bed in.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

Do need a fair few kg to bed in, fines get less, clarity goes up.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Ok, once I've worked my way through what I have I'll ask the supplier of my next order if they have any stale beans then.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

dan1502 said:


> Ok, once I've worked my way through what I have I'll ask the supplier of my next order if they have any stale beans then.


Go hard or go home


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

First impressions - wow!

First thing I'll say is I have a long way to go with my skills, especially when it comes to recipes and adjustments.

I am using Ron's profile 3 with Compass Hill & Valley beans; a combination I know works as it's what Ron recommended I try for starters.

I set the dial to about 1.7, ran what was left in my Anfim hopper through then tried weighing 20.1g of beans (I normally use 18 and am struggling with parts of Ron's spreadsheet a bit but think he might have used 20), a quick spritz of water and away we go.

Wonderful fluffy grinds. The basket was too full really but I just about managed to use the distribution device then the tamper.

So, about 20g came out in 36 seconds which I was about to chuck thinking it would be awful.

I rarely drink espresso but always taste it. It might not of been perfect but I was shocked how good it was and drank the lot.

Attempt two I tried 18.1g of beans in. The grinder creates much fluffier grinds as the volume for the same weight is a struggle to get in the 20g basket. Anyway I lift the lever only to find it's 8.30 and my machine has automatically switched off. I switch on try again and nothing then try again and away we go but again only about 20g in 36s and due to the initial water pressure when the machine was off and venting, the puck is a right mess but it still tasted good and even sweeter than the first.

I think I'll probably be bugging you all a bit for advice but can see me really getting into this


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Get one of nose lovely yirgs u like in it and start pushing he extRActions - at 1:1 you will still be nominally under extracting ( not working to the eks real strengths ) - glad it's coming out tasty - more to come from that girder tho


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

I have 500g of Hill & Valley left then I think about 1kg of the Rwandan from Foundry to try after that. My problem is I've tended to aim for 18:36 in 30 to 36s on the basis that there are a few seconds of preinfusion built into the profile. Working to a formula as a starting point for dialling in to get consistent shots seems to make sense to me but given I was only making one shot a day during the week, with the Anfim I have struggled with consistency. This is probably due to not purging enough as I don't like to waste too much. With the EK's single dosing capabilities I don't think I'll have that problem anymore (except perhaps to a small degree due to atmospheric changes and aging of the beans) so should be able to learn more easily. An idea of what sort of ratios and times etc to aim for will help though and the Grind Science blog should be very useful as the setup is virtually identical to mine. I think I shall now buy the small pots for beans and probably the lynweber blind shaker. Also I hadn't realised that the base of the hopper isn't ideal as it's not conical internally. I might try one of these in case it happens to fit properly https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0056HV812/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32M6X45JT4LPG&coliid=I3NV7ANLD983RV otherwise I might see if Adam would mind making a CNC'd and anodised aluminium version to fit.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Don't be constrained by time or ratio . Lighter roasts you can push to longer shot times at lower pressure and bigger ratios . Try 1:2.5-3 to gain more sweetness . Yes you lose some mouthfeel but if mouthfeel is your primary driver than the Ek ain't for you .... Open up the rule book and experiement , me and spence.both have / had the same set up .

Leave behind the time boundaries and the fixed extractions ... When you get that sweetness you may find you are drinking a ton more espresso than previously ..

The Lynn Webber single dose stuff is vastly over priced for What it is but to each there own...


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## UbiquitousPhoton (Mar 7, 2016)

Try Rons Profile 5. There are other variants of this, but I have had the most success with this one so far. I was amazed this morning - due to a slight operator error I managed to go up to 1:3.5, and it still didn't taste bad. I find myself steering into underextracting more than over these days.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

So to get these profiles higher ratios are you grinding courser or letting the shot run longer? I am initially trying profile 3 with the Hill & Valley as that's what Ron was using however that profile stops at 36s total time so presumably a courser grind would be the right way to go in this case. I also need to check with him what some of his notes mean as I'm not certain I have undertood them correctly.


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

UbiquitousPhoton said:


> I find myself steering into underextracting more than over these days.


Sorry, I don't follow. What do you mean by this?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

UbiquitousPhoton said:


> Try Rons Profile 5. There are other variants of this, but I have had the most success with this one so far. I was amazed this morning - due to a slight operator error I managed to go up to 1:3.5, and it still didn't taste bad. I find myself steering into underextracting more than over these days.


Just for clarity ... How are you qualifying the under extraction ?


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## UbiquitousPhoton (Mar 7, 2016)

Sour taste. I was going to start a thread along these lines myself to be honest, as I'm currently using the barista hustle coffee compass to steer where I am going, but I'm still not always getting what I would expect.

Initially when I got sour, I was thinking I had let the shot go too long (36 seconds including pre-infusion on 20g into 1:2.5 / 1:3) but according to the espresso compass this is under extraction and I need to increase yield. I have been wondering about bumping the temperature up a bit as well.

What I meant by steering into underextraction is that I seem to be headed into sour territory if I get anything wrong. I have been experimenting with courser grind to make the shot go faster, however this has not always been successful.

I have been wanting to ask the mighty @ronsil about his notes too, but obviously I don't know the dude :s


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

UbiquitousPhoton said:


> Sour taste. I was going to start a thread along these lines myself to be honest, as I'm currently using the barista hustle coffee compass to steer where I am going, but I'm still not always getting what I would expect.
> 
> Initially when I got sour, I was thinking I had let the shot go too long (36 seconds including pre-infusion on 20g into 1:2.5 / 1:3) but according to the espresso compass this is under extraction and I need to increase yield. I have been wondering about bumping the temperature up a bit as well.
> 
> ...


Ron like a darker roast - sourness isn't often prevalent as a function of those roast levels . Start a thread - with the coffee and notes etc . Weights in and out .

Larger ratios are more likely weaker but over extracted - it's hard to under extracting at 1-3.5


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## UbiquitousPhoton (Mar 7, 2016)

Hm. Ok

Will be starting new beans this weekend, so will comment on that. I should really buy larger amounts of beans so that I don't finish the bag just as I get the hang of a bean, but then I also don't drink enough coffee...


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

In my opinion, this is good reading and information for EK espresso; https://robdoescoffee.com/2015/11/11/everything-ive-learned-so-far-about-the-ek43-and-espresso/


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Regarding the Lyn Weber stuff, it is expensive but the quality seems to be excellent. I particularly like the blind shaker as I can see how it would fit well with my proposed routine. I recently received a 3D printed PF holder and it actuall works ok for me as I happend to have two mats which are the right height to support the handle but I was thinking that if made from aluminium (as I think is being considered) a mechanism to support different portafilter handles would be required. I thought of a design in my head then afterwards was came across the Lyn Weber site (I'd only previously known about the HG1) and say their version which was pretty much exactly what I had in mind in my head. The design and finish look spot on. I'm guessing that unless made in significant quantity something similar probably wouldn't be viable at much lower cost than their $ price though of course VAT, duty and postage might mean this isn't the case. I'll stick with my 3D one and mats though but the shaker I am tempted by and as my brother lives in New York State I might get him to buy me one.


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

The latest HG blind tumbler complete with lid is rather pricey, but great for being able to seriously agitate the grinds before popping on to the portafilter and dumping into the basket.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

The Systemic Kid said:


> The latest HG blind tumbler complete with lid is rather pricey, but great for being able to seriously agitate the grinds before popping on to the portafilter and dumping into the basket.


Don't doubt it ... the dosing tubes are another matter tho


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

I agree regarding the tubes; nice but a bit OTT even for me.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

I'm a bit wired now! I tried following my understanding of Ron's profile 3 notes with 20g in 30 g out. I'm using the 20g VST basket that came with his machine plus a distribution gadget and his Mahlgut tamper. I find grinding 20 g leaves the basket amost unmanageably full due to the volume of the fluffy grinds in fact even with 18 g it's not easy. Anyway with 30g in about 35 seconds it didn't taste good to me, with the sweetness having gone and bitterness in the mouth. So I tried reverting to 18g in and got about 38g out in about 35s and the sweetness returned but by this time I felt I'd best just make a full drink (flat white) and be done with it as I'd pulled half a dozen shots and even sipping them and drinking water in between I was getting wired and had tastebud overload.

Thanks for the links by the way as they do help though it is too much information for me to get my head around at the moment. I think some training would be a very good idea. I am a bit in the realms of all the gear and no idea at present though I have owned a dual boiler machine for five to ten years and at least I can't blame my setup now (apart from perhaps a burr upgrade being the way to go at some point down the line).


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

dan1502 said:


> I'd pulled half a dozen shots and even sipping them and drinking water in between I was getting wired and had tastebud overload.


I find it feels like this has more of an effect than drinking the same amount of coffee from a couple of drinks, rather than sipping several but don't know why that would be.

Aside though caffeine works "more", getting what I understand, if you're well hydrated, so that could be related.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Either way I'm buzzing around like a late 80's clubber.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

dan1502 said:


> I'm a bit wired now! I tried following my understanding of Ron's profile 3 notes with 20g in 30 g out. I'm using the 20g VST basket that came with his machine plus a distribution gadget and his Mahlgut tamper. I find grinding 20 g leaves the basket amost unmanageably full due to the volume of the fluffy grinds in fact even with 18 g it's not easy. Anyway with 30g in about 35 seconds it didn't taste good to me, with the sweetness having gone and bitterness in the mouth. So I tried reverting to 18g in and got about 38g out in about 35s and the sweetness returned but by this time I felt I'd best just make a full drink (flat white) and be done with it as I'd pulled half a dozen shots and even sipping them and drinking water in between I was getting wired and had tastebud overload.
> 
> Thanks for the links by the way as they do help though it is too much information for me to get my head around at the moment. I think some training would be a very good idea. I am a bit in the realms of all the gear and no idea at present though I have owned a dual boiler machine for five to ten years and at least I can't blame my setup now (apart from perhaps a burr upgrade being the way to go at some point down the line).


Roma burrs will have plenty of life in them , they were the newer variant I think so I don't see what your upgrade option would be


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

It's brand new so no issues with life but it was built in 2008 so will be the old style coffee burrs. I've zeroed it so am having no problems with espresso shots at least with the current dark roast but I'm around 1.7 on the scale so plenty of potential to go finer.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

dan1502 said:


> It's brand new so no issues with life but it was built in 2008 so will be the old style coffee burrs. I've zeroed it so am having no problems with espresso shots at least with the current dark roast but I'm around 1.7 on the scale so plenty of potential to go finer.


 Sorry my mistake thought you had rons old grinder . I have " old coffee " burrs with my Vesuvius and they cope fine. Bear in mind replacement burrs are £350-400 ish


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

No I think the grinder is about the only thing Ron hasn't sold. I'll stick with what I have for now, though without intending to gloat, at the price I paid for my EK I would still be in the money so to speak if I did buy new burrs. I feel very fortunate in that regard and owe a massive thank you to the member who spotted it.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

So I realised that the rear section had been replaced differently than all others I could see on the internet and the original pictures in that the rear holes and screws were orientated in a triangle with two at the top and one at the bottom rather than the correct other way around. I decided to rectify this which meant disassembling it all again. I had thought there were three different possible positions but there aren't so it was simple to work out what's correct.

So I removed the front section and tapped out the shaft with a drift. The correct way results in the switch mechanism being orientated like a catapult or a Y and the wiring bent over and tucked a way by the vent. This is further evidenced by the amount of it with paint overspray, paint having gone through the vents when it's sprayed. The funny thing is the way Adam orientated it does make more sense with much better cable routing.

Bear in mind that the orientation is dictated by the holes that go through the motor coil assembly which is pressed into the outer steel cylinder at the factory. Mine is actually a few degrees out of line. I had been trying to correct this by aligning the front and rear sections to compensate but that would cause problems; it's essential these are lined up with the motor coil holes. I also tried to see if I could loosen the bolts holding the cylinder to the legs however there's very little scope for movement that way (they do adjust more front to back). I had a good look at the paths of the scratches where the motor was pressed into the cylinder at the factory and it looks like it was probably pressed in slightly off angle. The only other cause could be when it was initially turned on and seized it shifted it around a bit or when the seller tried to free it but I am not sure. Either way it's not doing any harm and as I can't see how I could adjust it I shall have to live with it.

One other thing to notes is that you don't need to remove the rear circlip unless you wish to remove the bearing.

So I put it back together. Put it flat on the back with a block and cloth under the rear and everything perfectly horizontal then tap the shaft back in with a rubber mallet having checked the wiring is well clear of the rotating parts. I then made sure the holes of the back, motor and front were aligned using a torch and such that the long threaded pins just drop through. Typically it started raining just as I did this and some neighbours arrived so I had to bring it in. Theres a tiny bit of movement possible at the back and due to standing it up and the weight pulling the back down a tiny bit the motor rubbed slightly. Lifting the back a touch as I tightened it up again solved that and all is running smoothly again.

Adam reckons it was better as it was but as the burrs are factory aligned I wanted it as it was. I'm not sure whether it is this or re-zeroing it again but this morning I was getting chokers at the same setting, backed off half a number and still too slow but surprisingly nice tasting (30g from 20g in 60s starting on profile 3 then switching to 5 when I realised it was about to stop).

@coffeechap have you ever removed the coils from they cylinder? If so I'm interested to know what's involved for future reference.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

There is a guy is Scotland - name escapes me ( Kentucky something ) @risky who tears down Eks to the coil. Might be worth tapping his brain


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Mrboots2u said:


> There is a guy is Scotland - name escapes me ( Kentucky something ) @risky who tears down Eks to the coil. Might be worth tapping his brain


James Aitken of Dear Green Coffee Roasters in Glasgow. (@kentuckyairways on Instagram)


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

So yesterday evening I decided to align the burrs. The static burrs weren't far off and centralising them is quite simple as they fit in a machined cavity. Though there is little room for movement and placed a sheet of 90 gsm paper in th gap by each screw hole just to be sure. I also rotated them to the same position each time before tightening. The following is the result, the ink having been rubbed off at the edge all the way around:










The rotating burr took me a lot longer. It wasnt far off at all but shimming one area had an impact on others. After quite a while I didn't seem to be getting anywhere but on the second attempt I got a feel for it. I ended up with shims in more places but no thicker than two sheets of foil (I only needed one sheet for the other burr but that sits flat to the chassis so should be closer I would think). I used thin shirt collar stiffeners to keep the burr central and marked the burr and carrier edge with a fine permanent marker to keep the rotational position consistent. The results are below. You can still see some ink but it's a very light smear and even all the way around. This set took me several hours but I think I got there in the end.










I quick try this morning and the shot took about 15-20s longer but I would expect to have to use a coarser setting as the burrs won't need pushing in quite som much just beacuase of the shims but if they are parallel that should also affect this. The second cup still took longer than normal but tasted ok so I drank it but tomorrow I shall adjust it further and see how it's affected things. The grinds do look more even though.


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

For reference I followed Matther Perger's video:






When shimming the rotating burrs I just folded the bits sticking out down so I could easily remove and adjust them then cut them flush with a craft knife when finished in case that helps.


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## Phobic (Aug 17, 2016)

@dan1502 this was a very useful thread, photobucket's gone an broken it though!

any chance you could upload the pics on here at all please?


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## dan1502 (Sep 8, 2012)

Yes, it's maddening about photobucket as I've posted quite a lot of useful stuff on several forums over the years. I'll sort it when I have a bit more time.


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## cambosheff (Jan 1, 2016)

Anyone looking for Kluberpaste I got mine via https://webshop.antifriction.co.uk/Products/kluberpaste/005113-0213%2520KLU


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