# Mazzer Jolly - Repainting - DIY or Professional?



## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

Hello Chaps,

I'm looking for some advice from people who have renovated their Mazzers, or any other equip for that matter.

I bought an old mazzer jolly on the weekend for a really good price. It looks 10yrs old and has never been cleaned. I've stripped the machine, cleaned all the oils and smelly gunk etc.... given it a good clean and I'm ready to move onto the paint job.

There are some great examples of where people have done their own sanding/painting online, but I am torn whether to go down this route or whether to get it professionally done.

I've had a quote for £120 from the nearest car body shop, which seems expensive! I'm not worried too much about the later levels of painting, its more the sanding down the current unit and initial prep that looks onerous.

My possible questions are:

1) Has anyone used a chemical paint stripper with success on these units?

2) Does £120 for a strip, primer and paint sound expensive if paying?

3) People who have sanded and painted, do you wish you'd paid now, and is it worth £120 to do?

4) Has anyone removed the motor? I read about having to bake in the over at 200 degrees F/100 degrees C to get the motor out? (I don't fancy doing this)


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

I completely stripped and rebuilt an SJ a little earlier this year.

I got it chemically stripped and powder coated for the sum of £40. That said all I took there was the aluminium body having removed everything including the stator. Maybe a car body shop is a more expensive option? Powder coaters are very common it seems, but I sent enquiries off to at least 6, and only got a decent response from the one I chose. One word of advice I received was to NOT blast the old coating off due to the possibility of ferrous contamination and corrosion. Also powder coating has apparently a more durable finish than a wet spray paint.

Have a look in the Mazzer subsection of the forum. There are one or two threads in there dealing with renovations.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Andy__C said:


> 1) Has anyone used a chemical paint stripper with success on these units?
> 
> 2) Does £120 for a strip, primer and paint sound expensive if paying?
> 
> ...


1) Yup, modern chemical strippers are a bit pathetic (EU regs), so it takes several coats and several hours. But ultimately there is no point, you just want to sand the existing paint to provide a good base layer

2) Thats not horrific, as it includes the stripping, but a tad expensive I think.

3) If you have the spare cash and cba with the DIY then go for it.

4) Yea, you have to bake it, there is a whole thread somewhere where a member went through the process of removing the motor to replace a bearing. Not for the feint of heart. You only need to do this for powder coating


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## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

Hey Syenitic, someone I've managed to completely overlook the dedicated Mazzer grinder section (I thought it was odd that Mazzer was missing), I;ve just ready your PDF.... great work and thank you for sharing!

That would have been really useful to have printed out before the weekend and disassembling my grinder, but I've got it now for re-assembly. Your Mazzer looks great by the way!

I really don' fancy taking out the motor assembly... I only have a small oven, this probs won't fit.... and i know this is one area that I'll probably end up damaging, so I may have to work around going to a power coaters. I'll get into that section of the forum this eve and look at other projects.

Dylan, cheers for the replies also. I too think £120 seems a bit steep, especially compared to powder coating. I'll weigh up my options and see how its looking I think, or even make a start on sanding and see how its looking, there's no harm in starting to DIY and changing my mind I guess.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I think @TomBurtonArt painted his himself with a can, so he may be good to ask regarding how that has held up.


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## TomBurtonArt (Jan 18, 2015)

Dylan said:


> I think @TomBurtonArt painted his himself with a can, so he may be good to ask regarding how that has held up.


Afraid i'm no help here, mine is a Fiorenzato F5 in the original black finish. Sorry!


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

You could get it wrapped, in fact I think a member on here might have got one wrapped, or wrapped it themselves. Just flat off the existing paint and obtain a nice smooth finish, choose your wrap and away you go. or take it into one of the car wrapping places and bung a guy 40quid cash to wrap it in something nice they got spares of.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

DavecUK said:


> You could get it wrapped, in fact I think a member on here might have got one wrapped, or wrapped it themselves. Just flat off the existing paint and obtain a nice smooth finish, choose your wrap and away you go. or take it into one of the car wrapping places and bung a guy 40quid cash to wrap it in something nice they got spares of.


Would wrapping work on something essentially cylindrical? Maybe something like plasti-dip would work.

And not sure who I am thinking of then Tom, someone did a design on theirs, clockwork orange...?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Sanding it down is not that difficult, i prep all of mine before taking them to the painters. It should only cost around £40 - £50 if you do the prep yourself, it takes around a couple of hours to get it right then find someone who will paint only. If you get stuck finding a paint shop give me a shout


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

DavecUK said:


> You could get it wrapped, in fact I think a member on here might have got one wrapped, or wrapped it themselves. Just flat off the existing paint and obtain a nice smooth finish, choose your wrap and away you go. or take it into one of the car wrapping places and bung a guy 40quid cash to wrap it in something nice they got spares of.


Only problem with wrapping is there will be a seam


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> Only problem with wrapping is there will be a seam


you are quite correct, but he could do it for about a tenner or less for a matt colour..


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## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

Thanks for all the further info gents, there's a few things to mull over whilst I sand away for many hours.

Unless I am prepared to take the main motor out I don't think there's much avoiding the extra elbow grease in sanding unless I am willing to pay almost as much for the cosmetic job than I did for the grinder.

(this is my first electric grinder so set myself a limit to spend!)

I'm welcome to as many inputs and ideas as possible so please people feel free to lend any advice.


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Right, so I've done it on my SJ. Did it all myself.

Sanding it isn't that bad if you have something like a Black and Decker mouse. Finish is perfectly acceptable to my eyes, yes obviously a professional would have done a better job but would have cost £££



> willing to pay almost as much for the cosmetic job than I did for the grinder.


Summed up perfectly why it isn't worth paying to do it on a Super Jolly IMO. There is a ceiling on a the resale value of an SJ and paying to get it painted would see you probably make a loss once you moved it on (unless you got it ludicrously cheap but still not worth it IMO). This is of course presuming you are going to move it on and not keep it forever.


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## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

I've just come back from 90 mins sanding, it went surprisingly well. Using a small hand sanding machine with 100gr and also some hand sanding and it gets down to the metal relatively quickly.... too quickly on the edges..... but thats where most of the dings area.

I can see getting it completely down to 100% metal will take some time with the little nooks etc.... but I'm glad its made a solid start.

Risky, you are right re: resale value. Whilst this is my first electric burr grinder I'm not looking much past the current kit, but you should always think about resale value just in case with these things.

Can I ask what primer you went with for your mazzer? I'm wondering whether I need to go full etching primer first or whether i can go with straight in with filler-primer for a better finish


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

If you are respraying, you should not take it all the way down to bare metal all over. The edges will go but try to keep the undercoat on, also 100 grit is not fine enough for a finish you need 240 at least


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## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

coffeechap said:


> If you are respraying, you should not take it all the way down to bare metal all over.


Really?! Thanks for the advice, that's great news! Most of the guides I;ve seen online go full metal and even polish the metal some before priming. I'm happy to skip that step if it's not an issue.



coffeechap said:


> The edges will go but try to keep the undercoat on, also 100 grit is not fine enough for a finish you need 240 at least


Yes, agree. I was planning on working back up the grades and finishing 600+ and then taking my time sanding in between each coat as necessary. The metal underneath is quite soft so I'll need to be careful with the edges.

Cheers for the pointers Risky!

Edited to add/ask: Risky, do you have a recommendation for a primer that works well from your experience?


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Andy__C said:


> Really?! Thanks for the advice, that's great news! Most of the guides I;ve seen online go full metal and even polish the metal some before priming. I'm happy to skip that step if it's not an issue.
> 
> Yes, agree. I was planning on working back up the grades and finishing 600+ and then taking my time sanding in between each coat as necessary. The metal underneath is quite soft so I'll need to be careful with the edges.
> 
> ...


I used UPOL Acid Etch (Comes in a grey and red rattle can from Halfords) for a couple of coats then normal primer over the top of that if I remember rightly. Finished with some shade of Audi silver and a few layers of laquer top coat.

To echo what @coffeechap said there is no need to go back to the bare metal.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> Would wrapping work on something essentially cylindrical? Maybe something like plasti-dip would work.
> 
> And not sure who I am thinking of then Tom, someone did a design on theirs, clockwork orange...?


 @Sk8-bizarre I believe.


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Yes it was Sk8 who did the black and white Alex/Clockwork Orange job on his SJ. So cool!


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

jonc said:


> @Sk8-bizarre I believe.


Pretty sure he painted it then cut out stencils


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## Mouse (Feb 28, 2014)

Make sure you buy your paint from a proper automotive paint supplier. They'll mix whatever colour you need and will pop it in some rattle cans. It will cost a little more, but the quality of the paint and the will be LOADS better. Also, the cans that they supply will spray the paint more evenly as the nozzles used are higher grade than the ones used on any off the shelf cans.

They'll also be able to advise on and supply appropriate primer.


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## Brewer in training (Feb 7, 2015)

If you want it shiny don't forget to lacquer it................ The more lacquer the shinier it becomes.....


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

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