# E37S - grind time



## HCS (Nov 30, 2020)

Any ideas why it takes about 8s to grind 18g? It seems about twice as long as advertised.

That said, i am very happy with the grinder - the grind is great. Just feeling mildly annoyed that it doesn't work faster or as advertised/expected.

The machine is new from February and used a few times a day. Grind is fresh (2 weeks) dark roasted beans at fineness for a 25s espresso shot yielding 40-45g. Power is 240v/50hz.


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## lake_m (Feb 4, 2017)

Depends on the beans to a large extent. Square Mile Red Brick currently 4.8s for 18g. Slower for lighter roasts. Also might be worth checking alignment of the burrs.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Does it have the anti-static finger in the exit chute ? Is it adjusted down too far ? (restricting the flow) Is the flap valve opening fully ?

If you use oily beans the residue can build up and cause drag on the grounds.

Do yo empty the grind chamber before adjusting ? If not the grounds can back up behind the wiper arms and just go around and around.


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## HCS (Nov 30, 2020)

Thanks El carajillo, good and appreciated suggestions. Yes, i would say my beans run to oily but the grinder has the touch screen (not buttons) and i am thinking that it is in this model that the anti-static finger was discontinued. Would anyone be able to confirm off hand?

I adjust in relatively small/fine increments (no more than 2-3 long lines on the 1-5 ribbon) and i do this while the machine is not running. Is this a mistake and would it have any impact the time to grind? I never thought to empty the grind chamber before adjusting. That seems like a lot of work for a incremental change. Perhaps i should open up and look inside....


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I cannot speak for the anti static finger, mine has all the above.

Well worth opening it up, I think you will find grounds backed up in front of the wiper arms (quite compacted )

Well worth removing the bottom burr carrier to enable cleaning of the burr chamber ( oily residue)


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## HCS (Nov 30, 2020)

Thanks - is there any downside to removing bottom burr carrier, e.g. misalignment, calibration or other? And to remove, is it unscrewing the screws on the burrs or the screws on the outer edges - your pic show two of those.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The outer screw holes are the ones that hold the top cover and grind adjustment (as a unit, lifts off in one)

The three screws you see only hold the lower burr in place (it is worth removing the burr as stale grounds get stuck underneath and allows for easier cleaning)

The lower carrier is retained by the domed nut (with 2 flats on) this accepts a 1/2" AF. or 13 mm spanner.

THE NUT HAS A L/H THREAD =to undo hold the burr / carrier with a duster and turn spanner clockwise, as soon as it releases you can undo it with your fingers. There is a black cone shaped washer under the nut (this is what holds the carrier locked) do not lose .

The carrier now just lifts off, there are no aligning or locating lugs.

Replacement =slip carrier onto spindle, re-fit washer (cone point up) hold carrier and retighten nut


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## RDC8 (Dec 6, 2016)

El carajillo said:


> THE NUT HAS A L/H THREAD =to undo hold the burr / carrier with a duster and turn spanner clockwise,


 Well ... this goes to prove that every day is a learning day. I purchased mine second hand about 3 1/2 years ago and had no idea this was a L/H thread! Just assumed it was stuck on extra tight! Will give it a good clean out today - done are the days of poking something long and thin through the gap to try and dislodge the build up


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## ryanuptheroad (Mar 1, 2018)

Also had no idea about the L/H thread! Time for a deep clean this weekend. I run my e37s with no hopper, 18g takes around 10seconds, depends if you get a straggler trying to escape its destiny.

Sent from my HD1903 using Tapatalk


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