# Heavenly won't heat up



## jpt198

Dear all,

In a follow-up to my previous post - secondary thoughts, not so happy









I have some creative trouble shooting on my hands and wondered if anyone had any tips.

When I switch on the machine, it doesn't heat up and pressure stat reads zero. The group switch turn on the pump and water flows through the group so there is power, but no heat.

I think I left it on over night (the light in the on switch is fairly dim). I hit the power in the morning to pre-heat it, but when I went to use it it was off and cold&#8230; I wonder if it had over heated and needed cool for a bit, but it didn't work when I tried it later.

So far on the forums I've found a lots of posts about faults with cherubs and heavenly's, and even one about a heavenly not heating up and have come across the parts and circuit diagram document.

I gather the likely faults are the element or the PCB. I think I can check the health of the element with a continuity test from a multimeter (need to get hold of a multimeter or a strange battery for my multimeter). I should also be able to check that the pcb is passing current to the meter when its switched on (need to work out how to do that safely too!). Also I guess it could also be something like the boiler level probe? Or the equivalent of a thermostat?

Sooo&#8230; is there any obvious things that I have I should try first (Alt Ctrl Del?)? Have I missed any obvious problems? Once I've diagnosed whether it's a element or PCB problem I'll probably be here again asking for a few more pointers.

I guess the other real Q is whether it's worth trying to fix it or not. I quite like the idea of fixing it up and learning how it works, but don't want to throw bad money after good&#8230; Not that you can help me answer that one!

Thanks for any help!

Cheers

Jon


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## funinacup

You've already sussed out the two main likely causes. Check the element then PCB. This should lead you to a fairly strong conclusion. If it's the element then they're not brutally expensive - £36 from Fracino4u.

http://www.fracino4u.com/spare-parts-c8


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## jpt198

Thanks funinacup. If i test the element with a continuity test and it passes can I assume its ok?

If the pcb gives a current to the element can I assume its fine?

Thanks again!


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## funinacup

I'd say that if there's continuity in the element then in theory it should be heating...but if there is power TO the element and no heat then the element is in trouble. no power to the element = likely pcb.

see how the troubleshooting goes!


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## hotmetal

Found this on HB which may help if you're going to test the element.

"The L1 and the Fracino Cherum use the same heating element and it is rated at 100 VAC. The element's resistance is 7.0 ohms."


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## espressotechno

The boiler thermal cutout (if it has got one) may have tripped: Look for a capillary wire coming out of the element base, between the contacts, and going into a ceramic block with a red button. Push the red button to reset.


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## jpt198

hotmetal said:


> Found this on HB which may help if you're going to test the element.
> 
> "The L1 and the Fracino Cherum use the same heating element and it is rated at 100 VAC. The element's resistance is 7.0 ohms."


Thanks Hotmetal, that should be helpful.

I am borrowing a multimeter tomorrow so be able to make some progress.

I'll let you know how I get on ;-)

Cheers

Jon


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## Eyedee

Can you just return it as "not fit for purpose".

Ian


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## jpt198

espressotechno said:


> The boiler thermal cutout (if it has got one) may have tripped: Look for a capillary wire coming out of the element base, between the contacts, and going into a ceramic block with a red button. Push the red button to reset.


Hi Espressotechno,

I'm pretty sure it doesn't have one - although the circuit diagram mentions a "limit stat" (http://www.fracino.com/uploads/heanvenly%20parts%20diagrams%20PDF(1).pdf) but can't see a part number - think it may be intergral in the pressure switch? So I guess that could be at fault.

In the apparent absence of a simple cut out I guess I will have to await a multimeter tomorrow.

Thanks for your advice though

Jon


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## jpt198

Eyedee said:


> Can you just return it as "not fit for purpose".
> 
> Ian


Hi Ian,

I think I can, the seller immediately said to bring it back to his workshop - the only problem is that its in the Berks and I'm in Devon (and no car), so if its something simple I would rather fix it myself (if possible!)

J


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## jpt198

Soooo,

With a plethora of mulitmeters I faced the heavenly (and some advice from Chris, my friendly ex-electrician)...

Test one... continuity test across the element... failed! Faulty element??? not quite!

Test two... Voltage reading across the element... 0V

Test three... Voltage reading across the 2nd (neutral) and 3rd (elements) wires from the pcb - 0V!

Soooo... sounds a bit like the pcb is dead... and test 1 suggests the element too?? But I was pretty nervous testing the pcb, so could be my doing it incorrectly... I might take up Chris' offer and get him to double check it for me...

I think I might have taken a step towards trouble shooting it??

J


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## jpt198

Sooo.

My friend came over and spent a couple of hours with a multi-meter and the circuit diagram... The element seems ok, the pressure switch seems ok, the 2 solenoids seem ok. One of the neon is dead, but shouldn't affect anything.. we couldn't find the "limit stat", assume its integral in the element? He wasn't sure about the the boiler level probe, thinking it should simply ground when the boiler is full? anyway it seemed ok... sooo that left the electronic controller :-(

It doesn't seem to be sending any power out to the pressure switch or element.... the outside of the box looks like it has got pretty hot at some point... he opened it up and it wasn't obviously blown. Further investigation suggested it was the PCB transformer (myrra 44111??) as the 230V part of the circuit board had power, but the 12V side didn't... he has taken it home and is going to further investigate for me! What a star!

Anyway, I thought you'd be interested to know how I've been getting on!

Cheers

J


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## hotmetal

Blimey that hasn't turned out to be a simple fix has it? Sorry to hear it but at least your mate is helping where he can. Top chap.


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## Chriswilson

It sounds like your mate is being a bit of a star J!

Hopefully he'll help you get to the bottom of this and you'll be up and running soon - fingers crossed.

cheers, cw


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## espressotechno

Hmm. Unless he can source a new transformer & solder it in, a new ECU will be necessary.

What's the Gicar code on the ECU box ? (assuming its a Gicar ECU)


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## jpt198

Hi all,

we have some progress, and I will fill you in later, but just a quick q while my helpful friend is here.

Does anyone know if "FC134 Safety valve sealed 1.6 - 1.8 bar " is a single use valve?

Also, why "FC135 Air Release Valve" should be open? does it need resetting?

oh, been holding the air valve up and it has closed...

This is repair in motion!

Cheers!


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## jpt198

I think...

HE FIXED IT!

I'll give you the full report after dinner...

J


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## espressotechno

The safety valve is multi-use, but occasionally they don't reseal themselves properly when they have blown (1.8 bar +++). Then a new valve is necessary.

The anti-vacuum (air release) valve is also multi-use: It's a gravity open & steam pressure close unit. Sometimes it sticks shut, which gives a false pressure reading the next time the machine is fired up. This is usually an indication that a new valve, or new internal rubber o-ring, is required.


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## jpt198

Hi All,

I've been meaning to let you know how it went for ages... So Chris fixed the ECU. He found that there was not power in the low voltage PCB. He then took it home, and identified that the transformer on the high voltage pcb had blown, but that the rest of the board looked fine. He couldn't replace the transformer like for like, but did get an equivalent one (£7!) and fitted it.

When he came around, the ECU worked fine. When we turned it on, the air release valve kept leaking, but holding it closed for a few moments allowed it to seal... and all was well!

BUT...

Now it has another problem... It heats up ok. Then when it has to refill the boiler, it seemed to keep pumping, until the pressure release valve goes, and it squirts water all over the place... only stops when you turn it off.

I massively lost interest in it for ages, going back to my Gaggia Classic, but am now starting to think about it again...

I when my enthusiasm has started to rise again, I will make a not of exactly what is going on... I initially assumed it was the valves needed replacing, but now wondering if its the pressure switch/ECU with a problem as it keeps pumping even though the pressure is too high...

Anyway, that's the latest...

On another note, I'm getting much better microfoam from my Gaggia Classic now!

Cheers

Jon


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## espressotechno

The boiler overfilling is due to the water level probe not detecting the water. The probe is the stainless steel rod which goes into the top of the boiler. Try detaching the lead & earthing it against the boiler - if the pump stops then the probe is faulty. If the pump keeps going then it's an ECU problem.

Remove the rod & clean it until the steel is spotlesss; then refit & test run.

Sometimes the steel rod or the plastic insulation becomes "contaminated", in which case fit a new probe unit.


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## Padder

I messed about with a faulty heavenly for months before biting the bullet and getting a new ecu. Been perfect ever since


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## Roger

Are Heavenly always this much trouble.


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