# Super Jolly deconstruction



## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Hi,

As some folk might have noticed last night I am in the middle of a SJ restoration project.

Most of what I have done has been gleaned from other web posts, ultimately I have merged knowledge form all of those into a single source...and confirmed that the approaches are viable...Just writing that made me realise that I should acknowledge those that went before me.

So here are the unwitting contributors:

http://www.fotchbook.com/faq/mazzer/index.html

http://www.wholelattecoffee.com/2012/12/restoring-a-used-and-abused-mazzer-super-jolly

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/help-with-mazzer-super-jolly-disassembly-t18580-10.html

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-super-jolly-rebuild-t18257.html

And I made reference to this document to understand how it all hung together:

http://www.partsguru.com/user/JOLLY_COFFEE_GRINDER.pdf

Thanks to @Rhys for the project in the first instance and @jeebsy for getting me out of a hole.

So rather than post page after page, which will take hours and hours, I have a pre-prepped PDF, which I think all users should be able to open. I will attach it here. It contains narrative and photos.

PLEASE be critical, I would like this doc to be (ultimately) a reference for others attempting the same journey so am happy to address criticisms, answer questions etc. The photos are a subset of the ones I took. Many of the full set are repetitive and add no value, but if some one asks a question and I have an image that might help answer it, I will push it up here.

*Original PDF download here* 

*
& *

*
**Updated PDF download here - warning - large file - 4mb *

*
*

The second PDF incorporates the return journey and a contribution from Rhys dealing with the doser.

Cheers,

Ian


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Many many thanks Glenn


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Fantastic stuff.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Looks good!

Here's some more before pics..










Doser full of coffee balls (now that's what I call clumping, and they were hard!)










How to remove the internals. Don't grip the chute with long-nose pliers as mentioned elsewhere - it only ends up in you cracking the chute.










Parallel action pliers.










How I removed the adjustment collar, which was seized on.










The state of the burrs, and threads.










What came out of the doser when I washed it all.. Coffee anyone?


















When removing the doser window plastic, please be aware that the internal edges of the doser windows are sharp.

The doser window can be removed by tapping it out with a flat headed screwdriver positioned in the groove shown at 1 o'clock in the first pic.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Nice work! Thanks for producing the PDF, that's really useful.

Can't wait to see the next chapter... including the "how to heat it back up and get it all back together again" part ;-)

Stator in a plastic bag and in the freezer overnight may shrink it enough to drop into a room temp body - dunno - but possibly worth trying?


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

MrShades said:


> Nice work! Thanks for producing the PDF, that's really useful.
> 
> Can't wait to see the next chapter... including the "how to heat it back up and get it all back together again" part ;-)
> 
> Stator in a plastic bag and in the freezer overnight may shrink it enough to drop into a room temp body - dunno - but possibly worth trying?


Might work, though depends on the amount of movement for the given temp. Steel and Ally could possible expand and contract by different amounts for the same temp applied. Might be easier to just heat up the casing?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

With the effort that was involved in the removal, I'd suggest that the best plan is probably to do both- freeze the stator and heat the case.... as it MAY just drop in then.

Eager to see how it goes anyway!


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## 4515 (Jan 30, 2013)

Nice choice of tool in the pic .... a lump hammer can fix most things


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

MrShades said:


> With the effort that was involved in the removal, I'd suggest that the best plan is probably to do both- freeze the stator and heat the case.... as it MAY just drop in then.
> 
> Eager to see how it goes anyway!


The effort to remove might have been reduced if I had thought to look in from the underside. The stator was wedged in because my efforts had moved it out of true vertical alignment.

I will try to reverse the process by applying heat to the case and cold to the stator as you suggested. I am presuming the new powder coat having been baked on will withstand the domestic ovens ferocity. I will check when I collect it.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Rhys said:


> Looks good!
> 
> Here's some more before pics..


Thanks @Rhys, do you fancy adding some more words to your photos, explaining pitfalls, problems & solutions etc, when you have time, I'll then add them into the PDF, and re-issue it (with @Glenn's assistance again I expect)


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Yeas, I can do that. Might be easier to just re-do the post from above. I'll do it tomorrow evening.


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

Unless I'm just missing it or it isn't there yet, the PDF doesn't show in Tapatalk?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

It's in the first post near the bottom - look for the "PDF download here" hyperlink.

I've just clicked it and opened it on an iPhone with Tapatalk so it works fine.


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

MrShades said:


> It's in the first post near the bottom - look for the "PDF download here" hyperlink.
> 
> I've just clicked it and opened it on an iPhone with Tapatalk so it works fine.


Well it works fine for you .

On Android I'm seeing this:


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

jlarkin said:


> Well it works fine for you .
> 
> On Android I'm seeing this:
> 
> View attachment 16018


YES dark mode


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## jlarkin (Apr 26, 2015)

jeebsy said:


> YES dark mode


You have converted another one to the dark, oh master.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

So I got the grinder body back from the powder coater's this afternoon...Wow...inspired when I got it home I got Stator back in with almost no effort, the rotor into the lower bearing and both those into the lower bearing carrier.

Excitement took the better of me once again and I damaged the new upper bearing trying to fit it to the top of the rotor. Leeson from last week obviously not learned.

New order for bearings placed, and a meek look on my face....

We'll get there, I actually think that the stator was the potentially most difficult step.

I shall document the process with photos again and re-work the above PDF


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Interesting, what's the fit like then if it went back in so easy? Hopefully no rattles when it's running.


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

Loving this thread, well done Syenitic.

Bad luck with the bearings.....watching with interest. Good luck with round two!

What colour did you go with at the powder coaters?

Cheers

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

risky said:


> Interesting, what's the fit like then if it went back in so easy? Hopefully no rattles when it's running.


 @risky...due to the machining tolerances in the casting I don't think it is possible for the stator to introduce wobbles in the running. The base plate holding the rotor in place is butted up against the same ribs that hold the stator in place. So I think if the stator is seated (it is) and the rotor lower bearing assembly can be screwed in flat (it can) the rotor should be aligned in the upper bearing aperture correctly (provided I got the rotor and its bearing in perpendicular). This being the case, when the upper bearing is in place, the rotor can only ever be pushed through the upper bearing, which determines the alignment, which I reckon can only be pretty much correct.

To aid the insertion of the stator into the body Copperslip grease was added to the holding fins (Wish I photo'd these). Copperslip for those that are unsure is a high MP grease which in no way will ever come into contact with the grinders output.

hoping to prove this when the replacement bearings are with me.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> Loving this thread, well done Syenitic.
> 
> Bad luck with the bearings.....watching with interest. Good luck with round two!
> 
> ...


Bearings I was stupid...used a piece of softwood end grain on to knock the race into place....the softwood distorted and pushed into the bearing seals, compromising the entire assembly...new lesson learned I guess. Despite the waste, which I regret, it is no disaster and easily and quite cheaply replaced. But it has taught me to order extra's to cope with such situations.









The colour is not quite what I expected....but it is great, google this - c93c20 - was meant to be a metallic burnt orange....in today's sunlight it was a little brighter than I expected...but it does look good so far against the tiled background. The metallic finish is really fine and needs a close eye in good light to see it...subtle I guess. All in all a good result I think...Pictures will follow


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

You are certainly to be commended on this work. At first read I feel that other than re-ordering some text and pics it has almost everything needed to take on the task. Add a little about the order of removal from the start including the doser maybe and it may open up the possibilities that lesser experienced dabblers in mechanical fiddling might consider this doable...... Which leads me to ask: In your personal opinion, who could do this? Do you feel this is only for those with a fair bit of experience of things mechanical and probably who already have all the tools? Do you think it is your experience that got you through or, given that there is support available here in forum, could a less mechanically minded member get this done?


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> You are certainly to be commended on this work. At first read I feel that other than re-ordering some text and pics it has almost everything needed to take on the task. Add a little about the order of removal from the start including the doser maybe and it may open up the possibilities that lesser experienced dabblers in mechanical fiddling might consider this doable...... Which leads me to ask: In your personal opinion, who could do this? Do you feel this is only for those with a fair bit of experience of things mechanical and probably who already have all the tools? Do you think it is your experience that got you through or, given that there is support available here in forum, could a less mechanically minded member get this done?


I feel complimented.

All I had to do with the doser was remove it. @Rhys did the restoration/clean on that bit. If I needed to do that I am scratching...

I honestly think that all is needed (as I might have shown not to have) is a level of patience, a selection of common tools (though a neighbour with a better selection helps).

As I stated earlier, I am happy to receive criticism to make the documentation more logical and user friendly, I will make amendments as I understand them.

For general understanding, I am not an engineer, just like to take things apart to understand...there is nothing in this that needs you to be anything more than Mr DIY with a selection of tools and an understanding that if you don't have what you need it can easily be obtained or even made/manufactured

The biggest thing for me was breaking things apart and knowing what was safe for salvage. I think the only things t be discarded were the old bearings and the seal between doser and grinder body......ignore that seal and I reckon you'll face the issues that @coffeechap discovered with his Costa grinder


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

I think the main issue is whether makes sense for the average user to go to these lengths unless something inside was broken.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

risky said:


> I think the main issue is whether makes sense for the average user to go to these lengths unless something inside was broken.


A good point

The bearings in the one I have were worn on the upper end (fine on the lower)...to me it was worth it.

Still think the 'average user' might wish to have access to a list of how to's should they need to repair just one bit, or strip and repaint. I have seen some 'don't go there' advice which I think was unjustified, and advice at the other end that like wise might have led to disaster. Ultimately it is not a complicated job if you can be patient, know where to source replacements and have a normal set of household DIY tools. I will try to list all the tools needed in the final PDF.

I am happy to help anyone that thinks I might have knowledge to help. PM me if you have Q's. But open Q's are more helpful...both for readers and potential answerers


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Oh you're absolutely right. For a paint job only you can get a fairly passable result just with sanding and spraying, and unless you were planning to keep the grinder for a long time and wanted a very good finish it probably wouldn't be worth going to the trouble of stripping it.

However should anyone aquire a cheap SJ and want to totally refurb it then this is the ideal guide. It's also nice not to have to link to external sites for guides, great to be able to produce guides right here on the forum.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Got thinking about who might want to get hands on on this...I would say if you ever replaced a spark plug in an engine....you are probably over qualified to do any of this...(the only finer grained bit is the wiring to the lower terminal block...and all you need to overcome this is a photo or two and a pen and paper)


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Can't wait to see the finished project, all you'll need is a grinder tray to finish it off.


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## mexier (Aug 21, 2014)

Great and exhaustive post/pdf,thanks. I'm sure it will become a reference among mazzer guides pretty soon!

Show us final result as soon as you get


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Rhys said:


> Can't wait to see the finished project, all you'll need is a grinder tray to finish it off.


Courtesy of @jeebsy, I already got one


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## salty dog (Jun 6, 2015)

What a fascinating and well documented thread! Congratulations on a really good job!

So many manufacturers these days play their cards very close to their chests and it is often almost impossible to find out what goes on inside their products, and so, posts like these really help to remove the mystique and encourage others to go where initially they may have feared to tread.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

So replacement bearings anticipated delivered tomorrow (along with a couple of hasBean single origins).

Having considered the way I damaged my earlier bearings I think I have a solution involving a large washer and oversized socket.

If I get it right, this signals the start of the home run, no more difficult manouevres to be overcome.

Pictures already banked, ready for the revised PDF. More photos waiting to be taken, and they will be.

Aim....a coffee (of some sort) to be extracted by the mid afternoon of Saturday this week. (Rugby, it there is any, permitting)

excited me


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Sounds like a plan! I'll re-write the bit I put on earlier (as in add some words to the pics ll) as I've been too busy to do anything the last few days.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Great bit of documentation.

Hats off to you for replacing the bearings. Looking forward to how it turns out.

You should speak to El carajillo regarding how to pull the lower burr carrier.

The Aluminium lower carrier is easily distorted and there are safer ways of doing it (aside from the 3 screw method). Aside from that, Frank (El Carajillo) is a fountain of knowledge on these things and a bit of a legend. He's helped me out on numerous occasions.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

urbanbumpkin said:


> Aside from that, Frank (El Carajillo) is a fountain of knowledge on these things and a bit of a legend. He's helped me out on numerous occasions.


He's currently giving me advice on floating an engineered wood floor.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Update:

Got the stator and bottom assembly back into the grinder and the top bearing fitted over the stator.

Fixed the new replacement upper bearing cover in place and fastened the upper burr carrier and burrs in place.

Re-attached the base cover plate having re-connected the wiring.

Plugged it in.

Switched it on....

Sweet smooth running and quiet spin down.

One thing I am unsure about though is a sort of clunky/popping noise when switching on....wondering if this is normal or not...any ideas/advice, capacitor maybe?

And as a preview/spoiler this is what is looking like now. Missing the doser and upper burr etc, but the project is almost done, and I am stoked at how well this is turning out. First photo and grind tray reflection shows the metallic flecking.

Multiple photos taken again, will add to the original PDF, hopefully at the weekend.

(By the way @jeebsy your persuading me to take two bearing covers was prescient - ta very much).


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

I think the clunk on switch-on is a mechanical relay? (Never had one of these apart so what do I know? That's my guess)


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Nothing to worry about, I get it with my Major. Sounds a bit clunky/Poppy - not had any problems so far (just did as the guides told me in removing the switches and installing a jumper cable, exactly the same for the SJ and major). Looks great btw! If I had the time (and resources) to do it myself, I would've done. Hats off to you Ian for doing a great job. She's certainly gone to a good home.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Congrats on this, a fantastic job, looks the biz too.

Clunking is just the relay as has been said, nothing to worry about!


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

So it is all back together now, (no pics tonight) the doser, the pitch fork, and the badge. I am ditching the tamper on the doser, I doubt it will ever be used and acts as a distraction and a coffee trap it seems.

So powered it up wound in the adjustment collar until I heard the burrs chirruping and stopped. It looks like I have somehow got the rotor and consequently the lower burr carrier installed higher than it used to be, there is still plenty of thread from the collar visible and waiting to be wound in. So don't quite know at the moment what I have done wrong....I can't afford at the moment to remove the lower burrs again, because this seems to be a destructive process on the bearing cover (@jeebsy I should have asked for 10) and I have no spares.

So ignoring this, I backed the burrs off a little and ended up with coffee flour. ditched this and wound back 1/6 approx turn. The bean to be ground was a M.Malabar, and its legendary static cling slowed the process down, but the clumping on the first grind disappeared and I put it in the machine for a pour. That was pretty good, but still a bit concerned I got got something wrong in the re-assembly. the collar is still several threads higher than I think it was before I started.

- maybe I haven't pressed the upper burr carrier low enough onto rotor - problem is you cannot see inside to see the clearance between the carrier and the grinder body. From memory, I don't think it is possible to determine what the correct level should be.

Perhaps I should stop worrying and just enjoy the machine.


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

I believe the lower burr carrier only locates onto the shaft properly in one position, could it be that's not seated properly so the lower burrs are sitting higher than they should be and therefore not letting you wind the upper burrs down low enough?

Some details here http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?15895-Mazzer-cautionary-note/page2

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

I wonder if you are thinking about the two pins that protrude out from the rotor, which are I think sitting withing the two grooves on the burr carrier? It is a good shout, and I cannot disregard it. I was going to say not it is not that.....but now I am going to have to check....hopefully without the destruction to the upper bearing cover...will have to be tomorrow though....

thanks for the thought provocation, it is a further refinement to the reconstruction documentation


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

Yep that's what I meant, last picture in link I posted shows location grooves in lower burr carrier.

Hope its that, nice and easy! and you won't have to go down to the upper bearing cover.

Not sure why your bearing cover is problematic to remove, when I had mine off it was just a case of undoing the two screw's and in think I used a dentists pick through one of the screw holes to lift it out, I don't recall it been at all tight. IIRC the first time you took it off you didn't realise it was screwed on though as it was covered in coffee? maybe now it's just a tight fit because of the powder coating?

Hope you sort it tomorrow

Good luck

Cheers

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> Yep that's what I meant, last picture in link I posted shows location grooves in lower burr carrier.
> 
> Hope its that, nice and easy! and you won't have to go down to the upper bearing cover.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your thoughts, I am now wondering how I did not find the information revealed by your link before I started this process, it might have saved me some pain along the way. But to be clear, I am not trying to remove the upper bearing cover, the difficulty has been lifting out the upper bearing carrier which seats very firmly onto the rotor shaft.

Another possibility for the collar sitting so high dawned on me this morning, and am now wondering if I didn't get the rotor seating far enough into the lower bearing. I think this is now going to be a Saturday morning task.


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

Quote 'But to be clear, I am not trying to remove the upper bearing cover, the difficulty has been lifting out the upper bearing carrier which seats very firmly onto the rotor shaft' Quote

Sorry not sure what you mean by 'the upper bearing carrier'







I can't think you do but you don't mean the lower burr carrier do you? (it was getting late last night)

I found getting the lower burr carrier off was easy after heating it up with a hot air gun, I just needed the gentlest of levers from a screwdriver to lift it out, absolutely no chance of deforming it in my case as I could almost have pulled it off by hand.

Cheers

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> Quote 'But to be clear, I am not trying to remove the upper bearing cover, the difficulty has been lifting out the upper bearing carrier which seats very firmly onto the rotor shaft' Quote
> 
> Sorry not sure what you mean by 'the upper bearing carrier'
> 
> ...


Sorry I did mean the lower burr carrier yes, and I managed to pull it out with a couple of bolts screwed part way into the burr screw holes. I have been having DNS problems like several others on here over this weekend so apologies for the late reply.

And your initial diagnosis about the rotor shaft pins not seating correctly was correct, so thanks for that. Now all back together and looking better. Time to get the 'return journey' documented.


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

Hi Syenitic

That's great news, glad you've got it sorted. Hope you start enjoying it now, looks great BTW from pictures you've posted so far.

Cheers

Russl


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Ok, try and add a bit to the thread..

After buying a pair of Mazzers off Gumtree, that had been in a coffee shop that had gone bankrupt (they were whisked away by the owner and sold by a friend of his to me, as not working/needing attention). One of them worked fine, only needing the hopper fitting (which they didn't know) and I use that one all the time. The other worked in as much as the burrs span round but it needed attention to the bearings.

Also the adjustment collar was seized on due to never being cleaned. The rest of it had never been cleaned either as it was caked in old, stale coffee grounds.










The adjuster collar needed some gentle persuasion before it could be removed, via a leather strap to protect the collar and a large clamp so I had something to 'tap' with a lump-hammer. Remembering to whack it clockwise to loosen, it certainly took some freeing. None the wonder when you look at the state of the threads..










The burrs were shot as well, with no edge to them at all.










Looking sorry for itself..

Next was to remove the doser and remove the micro-switches used to auto-fill the hopper. A pretty painless job only needing an Allan key to remove two bolts at the top and screwdriver to remove a couple of screws in the bottom of the dosing chamber to take it off, and then consisting of tracing back the wires to the circuit board and removing them. Not forgetting to add a jumper cable where required.



















Now the doser can be removed completely and cleaned.

Remove the screw on the top of the doser, and unscrew the nut that changes the dose amount. The top vanes should then all come off, leaving the bottom ones and the central spring.










As you can see, it was pretty grim in there with hard lumps of coffee - or was it pumice stone?

To remove the bottom vanes you need to turn the doser over and remove the bottom plate (quite an easy job, just two screws)










Then there is a pin you need to knock through that stops the central bolt from coming loose. Don't remove it completely, just enough so it's flush with the brass ratchet nut.










Next is to secure the brass ratchet nut with something suitable, in this case some adjustable width locking pliers. Some other sources say to use a pair of long nose pliers in the chute, to jam against the brass ratchet, but this can end up in bending and breaking the alloy doser chute. Next is to loosen the bolt with a socket set.










Once done, you can hold the bottom vanes with one hand and use the socket set to undo the bolt. Bearing in mind that the brass ratchet and the bottom vanes are fastened together by the pin you tapped down earlier. If the bolt becomes stiff, wind it back and clean the threads otherwise something may snap!

(..continued in next post)


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Once everything is apart, you can then clean it all in some warm water. Then you find out how much muck was in there! The doser window can be removed by inserting a fatheaded screwdriver into the groove shown in the 6th pic and gently tapping it out. Though once removed, be careful as the inner edges of the windows are pretty sharp as you can see..










Everything should come up nice and sparkly with a bit of time and effort.










And you end up with a nice big bowl of coffee, with some very interesting tasting notes..









Add a new set of burrs, some new feet (as the old ones had perished), a hopper and some new lids..




























..and she scrubs up quite well...


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Thanks @Rhys. If it is ok with you I will add your posts and photos into the PDF.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Syenitic said:


> Thanks @Rhys. If it is ok with you I will add your posts and photos into the PDF.


Yes, no problem with that. That's why I've redone my earlier post but added more words (and a few more pics)

Here's a few more..










Before removing the micro-switches..










The bottom plate, showing two feet, a bolt at the back and no feet at the back. My guessing is that it was fastened to a metal stand via the bolt so it couldn't be removed. It also had a security fastening at the front which needed a special hex key to remove (I used a big pair of pliers..)


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

@Syenitic

How are you getting on with the SJ? Hopefully she's all now running sweet as a nut?

Impatiently waiting chapter 2 'How to put it all back together' particularly interested if you had to heat the casing again to get the motor back in and wondering if top bearing would go in easier if the body was heated.

Cheers

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> @Syenitic
> 
> How are you getting on with the SJ? Hopefully she's all now running sweet as a nut?
> 
> ...


Yes all is back together now, chapter 2 is taking more doing, the first part was done during a week off work and I seem to be having really long days and ferrying daughter to work too. I have started the document, and begun to select photos etc.

To answer your query, no heating required to get the stator back in. Just a little smear of copperslip on each of the ribs holding it in place and a gentle knock or two from my mallet via a piece of softwood. Heating was potentially going to compromise the new powder coated finish. I actually am now unsure whether removing the stator was actually necessary, the powder coating process only took the temp up to 190 deg C. and the openings into the bodywork were masked off. Question of whether the heat and duration might damage the wiring insulation and the stator windings - who knows, I played it safe and got the stator back in without much problem.

Here is a 'final' picture complete with the hopper which I shall in all liklihood never use.

View attachment 16319


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

@Syenitic

Thanks for the update. I hope you are finding the time to enjoy the grinder as well as writing part 2, sounds like you need another week off ;o)

Unfortunately I can't open the picture link?


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> @Syenitic
> 
> Thanks for the update. I hope you are finding the time to enjoy the grinder as well as writing part 2, sounds like you need another week off ;o)
> 
> Unfortunately I can't open the picture link?


that'll be my fault i expect

trying again


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

That works! Thanks!

Wow that looks awesome! Absolutely worth all your effort!

Have you got the Classic booked in for the same treatment? (and some orange cups ordered.....)

Cheers

Russ


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Russ said:


> That works! Thanks!
> 
> Wow that looks awesome! Absolutely worth all your effort!
> 
> ...


Oh God no....I like my colours to clash!!! I have a pair of great blue (sort of cobalt) cups that are the exact opposite of the orange, the green are complimented by a pair of red 280g mugs for the V60.

Having said that I recently bought a £4 milk jug from amazon and did contemplate buying a few more and powder coating them - much like the one that was for sale in a lovely Yellow here recently.

The classic stays shiny stainless thankyou - as it has for the last dozen years.

Ian


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Certainly looking orange! You wouldn't think it was the same one


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Rhys said:


> Certainly looking orange! You wouldn't think it was the same one


Hey @Rhys, yeah the orange came out a bit lighter than I imagined (the one I originally picked was lighter than the one I have now! and I was aiming for 'Burnt Orange')...that is one for the chapter 2 doc. Basically see a colour you like in a swatch, go at least two shades on to achieve what you're imagining.

That said, it is still pretty in your face with its metallic flecks ( iknow you cant see them there ) . The only issue I have with it all is that the rubber feet seem to impart a stain into the wood worktops...not an issue; I have a solution, to be later mentioned.

I think, all in all it was the bargain you sold it as. I spent more than I should have, due to impetuousness and impatience. I if was careful and only used what was necessary once, I spent

£40 complete chemical strip & hi build primer & powder coating

$0.75 upper bearing cover

£14 two new sealed bearings

£25+ for grinder tray

£5 approx for Mazzer badge (Very cosmetic) The original was probably ok

prices are with delivery (roughly)

me is happy


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Syenitic said:


> Hey @Rhys, yeah the orange came out a bit lighter than I imagined (the one I originally picked was lighter than the one I have now! and I was aiming for 'Burnt Orange')...that is one for the chapter 2 doc. Basically see a colour you like in a swatch, go at least two shades on to achieve what you're imagining.
> 
> That said, it is still pretty in your face with its metallic flecks ( iknow you cant see them there ) . The only issue I have with it all is that the rubber feet seem to impart a stain into the wood worktops...not an issue; I have a solution, to be later mentioned.
> 
> ...


If you think those rubber feet mark worktops (even though they are brand new), the old ones were sticky and pretty acrid. I have stuck some felt pads to the bottom of mine (got a set of different sizes, good for chairs on laminate floors) so I can slide my grinder out from under the cabinets.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

@Rhys I wasn't meaning that the SJ feet were alone in marking my worktops, it seems that ALL rubber feet do this, notably those on the Classic. So I place them on wooden chopping boards, but your felt feet solution sounds good and in the case of the grinder better.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Syenitic said:


> @Rhys I wasn't meaning that the SJ feet were alone in marking my worktops, it seems that ALL rubber feet do this, notably those on the Classic. So I place them on wooden chopping boards, but your felt feet solution sounds good and in the case of the grinder better.


I Know Ian, I noticed with mine - hence the quick fix (and frantic rubbing with kitchen surface cleaner..) when I found out..


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Ok, So I have finally found time to push keys and get the reconstruction documented.

Click here to download - warning - large file - 4mb 

This includes the contribution from @Rhys regarding the doser, and so is a complete description of the strip down and re-build of the grinder.

As a confirmed hausgrind user, I certainly feel the lack of discomfort in my (tennis) elbow. But what a mess beneath the doser. Time for some improvements I feel.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Looking forward to seeing it finished


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Yeah the SJ is finished, and it delivers. But I am still not sure that the lower burr is not 'chaffing against' something as it spins. I shouldn't worry - I am getting a great delivery, though finding the post grind clean down a bit of a pain.

@Rhys, there should be a picture in the final PDF to show how it looks now, bit more in yer face orange than I expected, but really is like a newly purchased grinder, it might just be the sealed bearings I chose to fit...not sure but 100% functional...thanks agan


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## MSM (Mar 12, 2015)

Syenitic - A quick thanks to say that this thread has help me a lot.

The Super Jolly I picked up needed a real good clean...









Still struggling a little with removing the upper bearing cover plate and still not managed to remove the central bolt from the doser (after removing the pin).

The rest of it has cleaned up well so thanks again.


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

NP, I am glad you found it useful. The upper bearing cover on mine was completely covered in cruddy coffee and so the three screes were not visible. Perhaps yours has the same coating, you should be able to carefully scrape it clean with a screwdriver or chisel I would think.

As for the doser bolt, I did not do that, but @Rhys the previous owner did, and might be able to offer you some advice.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

There's a write up for removing the bolt, but don't use the pliers in the throat, grip the brass ratchet wheel with some mole grips or similar.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Syenitic said:


> Yeah the SJ is finished, and it delivers. But I am still not sure that the lower burr is not 'chaffing against' something as it spins. I shouldn't worry - I am getting a great delivery, though finding the post grind clean down a bit of a pain.
> 
> @Rhys, there should be a picture in the final PDF to show how it looks now, bit more in yer face orange than I expected, but really is like a newly purchased grinder, it might just be the sealed bearings I chose to fit...not sure but 100% functional...thanks agan


Try using an angled pipe cleaner to clear out under the lower burrs and vac it out. It might be an easier option than removing the lower carrier.


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## MSM (Mar 12, 2015)

Rhys said:


> There's a write up for removing the bolt, but don't use the pliers in the throat, grip the brass ratchet wheel with some mole grips or similar.


Thanks - will try this way tomorrow - the pliers did not work (tried doing it that way a few days ago), they twisted and left some markings on the throat the pliers pinched on.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

MSM said:


> Thanks - will try this way tomorrow - the pliers did not work (tried doing it that way a few days ago), they twisted and left some markings on the throat the pliers pinched on.


That's what happened with my Major, enough to sightly bend it. With @Syenitic's I did with the grips so I didn't damage the throat, also I didn't completely remove the pin, just knocked it through enough to turn the bolt with a socket set. I held the bottom vanes with my hand while undoing the bolt with my socket set. if there is any resistance, don't force it - as you will shear the pin. Back off, and clean the threads


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)




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## sjm85 (Sep 9, 2016)

Hi, can anyone re-upload these pdfs? The link seems to be broken now. Thank you.


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## JPChess (Feb 15, 2019)

Just Bought a Mazzer Super Jolly and going to overhaul it.

Does anyone have a copy of the PDFs they can send me, it seems the links are broken.

Thank you in advance.

JP


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## Carrotious (Apr 19, 2020)

+1 to relink download


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## Kannan (Mar 28, 2020)

+2 if we can find that pdf please!


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

+3 @Syenitic do you still have the pdf's?


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

Actually I found Syenitics pdf. on my old PC. Hope no one mins me posting it...

Russ

View attachment sj_restore.pdf


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## Russ (Nov 15, 2011)

and here's a link to a useful set of exploded diagrams for all (?) the Mazzer grinders.

https://www.atp-czesci.pl/czesci_wg_producentow/producenci/mlynki_producenci/MAZZER.pdf

Russ


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## Kannan (Mar 28, 2020)

@RussThank you!!


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

Sorry, only an infrequent visitor these days so missed the requests - wasn't notified by the tags above. Gratifying that people are still interested in reading the PDF. Thanks @Russ for digging it out.


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## Covfe (Jan 11, 2021)

Thank you @Russ for posting the pdf, but sadly the link is now unavailable, could you try to reupload the link possibly? It might work better if @Syenitic reposts it! Looking forward to finishing my mazzer projects!


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## Covfe (Jan 11, 2021)

@Russ @Syenitic nevermind, I guess I'm just a dunce and didn't realize making an account would allow me to download the PDF, thanks again for the upload, cheers!


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