# My first Gene Cafe Roast



## ajohn

Might try drinking them but a little darker than intended. Working in the dark as there was no way I could hear first crack so pure guess work.

Then did another one following the gentle rise slow finish recipe. Not worth taking a photo came out black.

John

-


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

ajohn said:


> View attachment 36212
> 
> 
> Might try drinking them but a little darker than intended. Working in the dark as there was no way I could hear first crack so pure guess work.
> 
> Then did another one following the gentle rise slow finish recipe. Not worth taking a photo came out black.
> 
> John
> 
> -


Cremated you mean? 

Follow the gentle rise, gentle finish profile, and start the cooling cycle when you see the desired colour. Alternatively, as an experiment, just set the temp to 238 and stop the roast when you see the desired colour. Roast should take around 15 minutes.

Also see the Today's roast thread. Plenty of info there.


----------



## 4085

A lot of resources here if you explore

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/roasting-in-the-gene-cafe

The Cafe is very susceptible to low voltage so especially when it starts to get colder, check your voltage


----------



## ajohn

MediumRoastSteam said:


> Cremated you mean?
> 
> Follow the gentle rise, gentle finish profile, and start the cooling cycle when you see the desired colour. Alternatively, as an experiment, just set the temp to 238 and stop the roast when you see the desired colour. Roast should take around 15 minutes.
> 
> Also see the Today's roast thread. Plenty of info there.


Actually rather than follow the bumf that came with the machine I guestimated a higher number based on Illy roasting on that one and set 235. Turned out to be more than enough to burn oil off and I suspect I should have stopped before the colour I wanted.







Just drank a shot with things as they are for my MM. Got 1 to 4 from 15g and the DB decided to suck so probably need more. It has the sort of taste it should have but can't say I like it. Banoffee / buttery but that fades as it's drunk. Finca Sofia.

The incineration came from following the first gentle rise slow finish from Bella Barista's hints and tips.

I seem to have bought a duff dimmer so maybe I should sort that out first. Must admit I'm inclined to see if I can fit it in the machine rather than a separate box. The chinese ones are tiny and I can't see any good reason to mount in a separate box so enlighten me.

I suppose it may be possible to judge cracks via appearance and bean expansion but me thinks I will see if I can find some way of hearing them. People mention cardboard tubes, stethoscopes and amplifieres. A mechanics stethoscope might work out but I don't fancy sitting there with one of those in my ears.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

dfk41 said:


> A lot of resources here if you explore
> 
> http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/roasting-in-the-gene-cafe
> 
> The Cafe is very susceptible to low voltage so especially when it starts to get colder, check your voltage


That's not too different to my guestimate. To be honest when I looked at the numbers for the recipe in relationship to what happened during my guess I thought " really ? ".

John

-


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

ajohn said:


> That's not too different to my guestimate. To be honest when I looked at the numbers for the recipe in relationship to what happened during my guess I thought " really ? ".
> 
> John
> 
> -


What voltage are you getting John?


----------



## 4085

The Gene takes a couple of minutes to cool down so in other words it carries on with the process after you kill the switch.

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/genecafedimmermod2017

I take it you have explored this wiki. If not, search for Gene Cafe and there is a host of things that have been done, over the years, along with diagrams etc


----------



## ajohn

Every time I have checked voltage here it's been 240. It is a 240v machine as well.

I've picked up various ideas on here and elsewhere including the wiki. Some hit the cooling cycle, stop and remove the container pretty quickly.







I do have some welding gloves some where that should be ok unless some one has used them as gardening gloves.

First thing I have decided to do is give the machine a thorough clean. Dismantle and remove or leave the dimmer connection alone depending if I can fit one directly in the machine. I might also find the fan needs cleaning for instance.

John

-


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

ajohn said:


> Every time I have checked voltage here it's been 240. It is a 240v machine as well.
> 
> I've picked up various ideas on here and elsewhere including the wiki. Some hit the cooling cycle, stop and remove the container pretty quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have some welding gloves some where that should be ok unless some one has used them as gardening gloves.
> 
> First thing I have decided to do is give the machine a thorough clean. Dismantle and remove or leave the dimmer connection alone depending if I can fit one directly in the machine. I might also find the fan needs cleaning for instance.
> 
> John
> 
> -


If you read on on this forum, pre heating or not doing the cooling cycle completely will shorten the life of the heating element and damage other parts of the machine.


----------



## ajohn

I'd have thought that DavecUK's double button push for cooling to higher temperature would be ok mostly in respect to plastic etc parts and maybe the element for if another batch is going to be roasted immediately but it's heating up that usually causes grief with elements, lack of flow through the heater box would too with power on the element.

I've seen comments that the machine should be preheated on the first one and cooled if another batch is to be roasted afterwards but that doesn't make much sense unless there are beans in.

Anyway the fan had a fair accumulation of dust. The vents between the blades were over 1/3 blocked, probably over 1/2 actually.

I have looked at the thread that was mentioned but starting at the end the temperatures mentioned are around where I would expect. Davec's are too for a faster roast. Also saw mention of mechanic's stethoscope. It seems it is possible to hear the cracks without a length of pipe fitted to get fumes out of the house and also if the chaff collector is removed.

Someone asked where to place a mechanics stethoscope. I'd try the chaff collector and the venting pipe but my pipe is a pretty rigid one. It wont collapse back down once expanded. Noise travel was why I bought it but want to try something else first.

It looks like I can mount a Chinese regulator inside. Next to the sloped Gene Cafe logo on the lid, not too keen. Or next to the transformer in the base but there is a pesky connector held down there which makes it a little more difficult to get the knob showing neatly. Also I think room for a moderately compact switch next to it to switch it in and out. I removed the separate box wiring and decided to sleep on the idea and make my mind up later.

John

-


----------



## MildredM

Some beans make a louder 1st crack than others


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

Any of the cooling cycles are good. Single or double tap (I.e: normal or fast). What you should not do is do an emergency stop and cool externally.

I always use the fast cooling cycle. I never had the need to use oven gloves to get hold of the roasting chamber.


----------



## DavecUK

I am reminded of this little article I did in the name of fun....many years ago now.

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/the-problem-with-forums-part2


----------



## DavecUK

ajohn said:


> Every time I have checked voltage here it's been 240. It is a 240v machine as well.


The key thing is John...did you buy it used, is it a modified Gene?, how much power was it drawing when roasting, was it element switching, details about the set-up for venting....then you will know more where you are....hell just a photo would help.

P.S. If it was modified, it might have a dimmer and a 230V element in it, to replace a 240V that it might have had originally?


----------



## MildredM

DavecUK said:


> I am reminded of this little article I did in the name of fun....many years ago now.
> 
> http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/the-problem-with-forums-part2


I remember reading that many moons ago (about the time I invested in my Ploptop, I expect)! It seems even funnier this time round having read quite a few forum comments over the last couple of years from would-be home roasters!!!


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

MildredM said:


> (about the time I invested in my Ploptop, I expect)!


----------



## Robbo

Hi @ajohn as it was my roaster and I carried out the mod I can tell you it's a 240v element. I did a roast around a week ago with the Peruvian beans I gave you and they turned out fine. I also would recommend resting the beans for 10 days to 2 weeks before using them as you won't pull a good shot so soon after roasting.

If you look at some of my previous posts on the today's roast section it will really help as I included power adjustments and timings.

My go to procedure was to only switch dimmer in after 5 mins, after switching the dimmer the power drops leave it until 1st crack then reduce power to slow rate of rise.

The time approaching and after 1st crack is the most important to control.

You also mentioned about getting a longer vent tube. This will also affect airflow. Try doing a roast with no vent outdoors.

If you need any help please let me know


----------



## ajohn

Hi @Robbo. The airflow will be different. The tube I'm using will probably make it higher. It's full 100mm dia all of the way through. I also thought it was worth having a look at the fan. Rather a lot of dust so cleaning that off will increase it as well. The blades had a pretty hefty coating. No problem cleaning them, no complaints and I fancied a look inside anyway.

The power draw was as it should be for a 240v element. I saw no reason to check that precisely with other gear I have. I had a bit of a problem with the dimmer, nothing getting through to the element. Not sure why. All I've done at the moment is disconnect it so that I can look at it separately. On the other hand I have one of the Chinese regulators kicking about so may just fit that. I fancy mounting it internally which will mean drilling a hole in the case for it. I'd best lash it up externally first and see what temperature the heatsink gets up to and then get some idea how hot certain parts of the machine get. No point fitting it and then having it blow up.

Actually my first roast went pretty well really all things considered. Just a bit darker than intended. I just tasted a shot out of curiosity but suspect I wont be fond of the taste of the Peruvian bean even after it's been rested. One of the slow start gentle finish recipes in the paperwork you gave me didn't work out well at all. Visually I would say that first crack happened in the first stage of that so hanging about in it for 2mins is NVG. Actually that didn't surprise me but thought try it anyway. There is all sorts of info about on beans and roasting and going on that the first stage was too high so lo they looked like they had cracked rather early on.

I have tried roasting beans before using 2 types of popcorn roaster. Decided that they didn't have enough control and quantities they can do make it a bit pointless trying to sort that out.That's why there is a Chinese regulator kicking about. However i have heard both 1st and 2nd crack. No signs of either on the Gene. That I will fix one way or another.

Thanks for all of those bean







I'll probably need a kg or so to get a feel for what the machine does.

John

-


----------



## Robbo

@ajohn have you tried pushing the dimmer switch in? it is actually an on/off switch too.


----------



## ajohn

Robbo said:


> @ajohn have you tried pushing the dimmer switch in? it is actually an on/off switch too.


LOL - Doh, didn't try that. Just max and min setting. That would explain it.

The ducting I am using by the way is semi rigid stuff from Wicks and in my case more like a chimney as it needs to go through a transom window. It's 100mm but the same stuff is around in 80mm from more specialised sellers often with stupid postal charges but some one on ebay is more realistic. It wont collapse down like the other types but I should be able to store it on top of the kitchen wall units







when they are fitted.

I forgot about them having an on off facility. We seem to be on the same circuit as Triplex and the Layland factory used to be and some whoopsy there used to make our dimmers literally explode so stopped using them a long time ago. Both factories have gone now.

John

-


----------



## DavecUK

MildredM said:


> I remember reading that many moons ago (about the time I invested in my Ploptop, I expect)! It seems even funnier this time round having read quite a few forum comments over the last couple of years from would-be home roasters!!!


I think it takes a bit of time on the forums to become sufficiently "exposed" so that the humour makes sense....for someone new to it all, it probably wouldn't resonate. You also reminded me that I was using letter substitution even back then with the Keene Gaffe and Ploptop....Aggrovoni etc..


----------



## 4085

@ajohn

Not only is there a host of info on the Wiki, and several very experienced users on here, you have @DavecUK who wrote the manuals, came up with the original various mods....it may save you a lot of pain tapping into those before you wonder down the customised route and cause yourself potential problems. If you do the dimmer mod, it makes sense to swop the element for a 230 volt from a 240......I used to find enormous voltage swings, and not only at the obvious times of peak requirement. I used to always check the voltage and quite often would not bother and try again later in the day. The element switch plus dimmer mod was a step up from the idea of using a VAriac to combat voltage drops


----------



## ajohn

dfk41 said:


> @ajohn
> 
> Not only is there a host of info on the Wiki, and several very experienced users on here, you have @DavecUK who wrote the manuals, came up with the original various mods....it may save you a lot of pain tapping into those before you wonder down the customised route and cause yourself potential problems. If you do the dimmer mod, it makes sense to swop the element for a 230 volt from a 240......I used to find enormous voltage swings, and not only at the obvious times of peak requirement. I used to always check the voltage and quite often would not bother and try again later in the day. The element switch plus dimmer mod was a step up from the idea of using a VAriac to combat voltage drops


People seem to use the regulator to reduce power not maintain it and have the ability to switch it out for if they want full power. As to the rest



> Just as it was in 1960, the supply voltage to domestic properties in the UK is still nominally *240 V* AC at 50 Hz, although the declared voltage in the UK is now *230V AC* +10% to -6%. Historically the domestic voltage was *240 V* +/-6%


Maybe you had better measure it and account for that with your current interest in cooking.

John

-


----------



## 4085

ajohn said:


> People seem to use the regulator to reduce power not maintain it and have the ability to switch it out for if they want full power. As to the rest
> 
> Maybe you had better measure it and account for that with your current interest in cooking.
> 
> John
> 
> -


There again I might just not bother......carry on as you usually do.....I for one will not visit this thread again


----------



## DavecUK

ajohn said:


> People seem to use the regulator to reduce power not maintain it and have the ability to switch it out for if they want full power. As to the rest-


That's not quite true, I modded mine fully with a 230V element. This was because at times, especially winter, Christmas and other holidays voltages can sag quite a lot. So you might see 227V, or if it's 3C outside, you might want to overboost the gene (which you wouldn't normally do, but it's OK if it's really cold). We also had terrible voltages for years, because as they build new houses and connect them up to local substations, they often don't update the substations until they have to. Usually when the breakers keep tripping out or the voltages are so low people start complaining....as happened in our area.

However, roasting is a personal thing and you will eventually find your own way to get the best you can from your Gene.....


----------



## NickR

I always kill the roast a bit early and let the machine do almost the full cool down cycle. It does a brilliant job at removing the chaff that way, and gives me plenty of time for guitar practise.


----------



## ajohn

> That's not quite true, I modded mine fully with a 230V element. This was because at times, especially winter, Christmas and other holidays voltages can sag quite a lot. So you might see 227V, or if it's 3C outside, you might want to overboost the gene (which you wouldn't normally do, but it's OK if it's really cold). We also had terrible voltages for years, because as they build new houses and connect them up to local substations, they often don't update the substations until they have to. Usually when the breakers keep tripping out or the voltages are so low people start complaining....as happened in our area.


This place has been here since 1911 and there has been a lot of industry around here as well. As I mentioned when I have measured it's always been rather close to 240v. Go back rather a lot of years and another part of B'ham and a new estate I measured it rather often and again 240v but the substation would have been added when the estate was built.

To be honest though I wouldn't fit a lower voltage element and a regulator without always measuring what the supply was when it was used. The dam things overheat far to easily as some people find out if they buy some 220v heating equipment and run it on our supply. A coffee roaster may be ok as I doubt if the elements get that hot but lot would depend on how they are arranged and size etc.

I did wonder if 230v was mentioned due to losses in the regulator. If that's the case I would be rather surprised if it needed that large a change. Cold air coming in is a different matter.







I'd probably try preheating it with a hair dryer.



> However, roasting is a personal thing and you will eventually find your own way to get the best you can from your Gene.....]


That's my general attitude about anything I use with a slight twist - I don't like being defeated so will try anything I can think of to get things to work as I want.







Just like the previous owner I'll probably try several roasts without use of a regulator even if that is a waste of time. Just like brewing if people don't try different approaches a lot can be missed.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

I've just ordered some green monsooned malabar so that I can compare with what I usually buy fresh roasted.







Probably the worst possible choice to start off with but I'd be comparing apples with pears if I don't give it a try and do know what they should look like when they are finished. My current suppliers seem to be rather expert in that area. The roast I use is sometimes referred to as well into 2nd crack but there is a need to avoid burning oil off.

LOL To add a bit of professionalism I have also ordered one of these cards as it's hard to get cameras to take a good photo of browns easily and quickly.

http://www.roastrite.com/roast-color-card.html

The numbers look to be the same as Astron but hard to sure from a photo.

The correct ducting arrived rather quickly. Nice easy but loose fit. The 100mm is destined for a cooker hood but way too much of it - new toy so wanted to get it running ASAP.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5m-Aluminium-Flexi-Pipe-Alloy-Air-Duct-Tube-Heat-Resistant-Hose-%C3%98-7-5-25cm/162836827340?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=461873780566&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It arrived covered in cling film - easy to get off from one end but not from the other end. Very slight dent but squeezed out easily.

John

-


----------



## DavecUK

Just get an adaptor to increase the vent size of the large chaff collector to 100mm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Galvanised-Metal-Reducer-Ducting-Pipe-Steel-Connector-Adaptor-Chimney-Flue-Liner/332043991901?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53529%26meid%3Df2ff0b7ba0d84d31ac6aca1e8a6d5f9a%26pid%3D100281%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26%26itm%3D332043991901&_trksid=p2045573.c100281.m3567

I can't remember what I purchased, but it went on the round vent of the large chaff collector and allowed a leak free fit of the larger tubing.


----------



## ajohn

I ordered the 80mm stuff yesterday morning much to my amazement it arrived about an hour ago. If some one want a totally leak free joint with it a larger size of pipe clip should crunch it up pretty easily.







The 80mm will be less noticeable on top of the kitchen wall units. That's the only problem with the stuff. It can be straightened and the length compressed again but not by much. Robbo use the other more flimsy stuff with a sort of spring inside but the length wouldn't reach in my case. That type can be removed and just recompresses all on it's own to a much shorter length than the semi rigid type. Way shorter. So short that it can be left on the machine and stretched out when needed.

John

-


----------



## DavecUK

If you use a long run of 80mm, you will get problems due to the resistance created, especially vs 100mm


----------



## Rob1

Are you aiming for "well into second crack" or not?


----------



## ajohn

Rob1 said:


> Are you aiming for "well into second crack" or not?


I will be on MM when I get to that. In the meantime I have nearly 3kg of beans to play with 1kg of which I am unlikely to drink. Anything goes on those but first task as I see it is to find some convenient way of hearing cracks.

80 - 100 flow rates. As I was using the 100 I don't think there will be much difference due to the 100 being near open ended so drawing air in. The 80 with something more like a seal to the unit will get hotter so will need to keep and eye on that - upvc windows. Flow rates with both sealed making a difference, pass. I would have thought not much as compared with say extraction the air flow rates are pretty low. Length - looking at it less than 2m. Maybe 1 1/2.







Having seen it I might get some more 80mm for my bandsaw the rubber stuff on the extractor is a bit of a pain to connect up and the extractor is needed on other things.

John

-


----------



## Rob1

Ok. Well if you stop by colour the MM won't be as dark as other beans well into second crack.


----------



## Robbo

A few other things i would suggest about roasting MM

Start with max 225g rather that 250g in the drum as they are bigger beans and trap more heat.

Ease off the power coming into 1c and then drop it right back to 1000w or even 950 after first crack. (if you hear it)









They have a tendancy to run away with themselves and burn very quickly. If you dont drop the heat enough the difference between 1c and 2c can be just a few seconds and by the time the cooling cycle finishes theyre charcoal

Start the cooling cycle earlier than you think. The residual heat in the drum continues to darken the beans for around 30 seconds.

Im sure you will learn all this for yourself. Its all part of the fun!


----------



## iroko

Try hitting cool down just before the colour of bean your aiming for, or you'll end up darker than you want. If you can do a roast outside in a sheltered place without the vent

tube, just the chaff collector you should hear 1st crack.


----------



## NickR

MM is just about the most difficult bean to get right. Be gentle with it.


----------



## ajohn

I tried the amp plus microphone out. Works.









Just to first crack so far

Results probably just a little dark for a medium roast. I'll edit after posting and compare with actual colour. Later on though.









Hoots of derision now maybe. I decided to try some numbers from science on coffee beans so set 225C. 14min and left at 225 until 2nd crack had more less stopped. Some more while cooling.

Heat up time seemed quicker than before I cleaned the fan but some may say down to 80mm restricting pipe. I'm pretty sure it will create less of that than the type Robbo used. Beware though this pipe gets pretty hot.

John

-


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

ajohn said:


> I tried the amp plus microphone out. Works.
> 
> View attachment 36297
> 
> 
> Just to first crack so far
> 
> Results probably just a little dark for a medium roast. I'll edit after posting and compare with actual colour. Later on though.
> 
> View attachment 36298
> 
> 
> Hoots of derision now maybe. I decided to try some numbers from science on coffee beans so set 225C. 14min and left at 225 until 2nd crack had more less stopped. Some more while cooling.
> 
> Heat up time seemed quicker than before I cleaned the fan but some may say down to 80mm restricting pipe. I'm pretty sure it will create less of that than the type Robbo used. Beware though this pipe gets pretty hot.
> 
> John
> 
> -


Hi John,

If you don't mind me asking, can I ask you where did you get the mic and the amp from? Thanks.


----------



## ajohn

It's this one in pretty pink as that could arrive quicker, not so sure about their claims for use by tourist guides. I haven't tried it like that.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071H2PDHN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hopefully heat will distort the neck clip. I just pulled it round and then cable clipped across the ends of the loop. Similar can probably be obtained for less elsewhere - a problem with being a prime member, family in my case.

It didn't spend long at 225C, don't ask me how long but they started shortly after it reached it. Maybe 1min.







I was too excited by the cracks. Not as loud as I hoped but adequate.

There may be a mk2 version when I have time to do it.

Colour is darker than the actual beans here. Looking again I''d say a decent medium roast. I must set my PC colour management up and calibrate the monitor properly. I do a lot of accurate photo work now and again.

John

-


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

ajohn said:


> It's this one in pretty pink as that could arrive quicker, not so sure about their claims for use by tourist guides. I haven't tried it like that.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071H2PDHN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Hopefully heat will distort the neck clip. I just pulled it round and then cable clipped across the ends of the loop. Similar can probably be obtained for less elsewhere - a problem with being a prime member, family in my case.
> 
> It didn't spend long at 225C, don't ask me how long but they started shortly after it reached it. Maybe 1min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was too excited by the cracks. Not as loud as I hoped but adequate.
> 
> There may be a mk2 version when I have time to do it.
> 
> Colour is darker than the actual beans here. Looking again I''d say a decent medium roast. I must set my PC colour management up and calibrate the monitor properly. I do a lot of accurate photo work now and again.
> 
> John
> 
> -


Thanks John. For checking bean colour, it is recommended a good bright halogen flood light, or equivalent. I want to setup my Gene on my shed, so the light and your mic will be my next mods...


----------



## ajohn

Colour is usually worked on with D5000 triphosphore fluorescent tubes. Certain models are reckoned to be better than others. I could give you a Phillips tube number but it's on and a bit hot at the moment. Some makers mention tubes for colour critical work in their catalogues. They should be close to 5000k.







Can't remember the actual colour temperature but halogen's isn't one of them.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

Take that back







My spares aren't hot

http://www.lighting.philips.co.uk/prof/conventional-lamps-and-tubes/fluorescent-lamps-and-starters/tl-d/master-tl-d-90-de-luxe/928045095081_EU/product

Most makers produce something very similar and some at extra cost may have a slightly higher cri.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

By the way the Philips tube may be hard to find but all of the main makers produce a top end D5000 tube.

For roast colour this is a lot easier to use than the roastrite card

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-svmcj-sD20k/UwO3q_4uvdI/AAAAAAAADKY/S15QO-z89r8/s1600/21-coffee-lab-agtron-scale.jpg

There is no copyright on it and it actually has a colour profile embedded. It puts my roast at about 50.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

Ducting. When I used the 100mm it was just plonked on to the outlet to the unit so as hot air was going up it cold air would have too. The 80mm fits with a bit of clearance. Robbo was using the type of ducting that has a spring running along it's length. OD about 110, bore a bit under 80mm by the look of it. I'd have thought flow rate would be similar however ?? not easily possible to be sure. I went for the semi rigid as thought it would be better for propagating sound.

I went for 225C for a couple of reasons. One is this page

https://legacy.sweetmarias.com/library/using-sight-to-determine-degree-of-roast/

I mentioned some figures based on that some time ago and some one commented wont reach 1st crack. So being perverse just had to try it as it should. I'd also seen a video of llly roasting at 210C so added 15C as no direct way of getting at the actual bean temperature. Illy were using way more hot air than the Gene could produce.

The bean tastes a lot better than the first batch I did. Buttery bananas sort of thing but acidity is higher than I like. It's all aftertaste so will try longer at 225C based on the links comment about CO2 and have kept this batch to see if it improves. I'd like to know what the hot air temperature is so want to see if I can fit a thermocouple to measure it. There is a UK video that suggests that the Gene plays with this according to the temperature that is set based on roasting times but it would be easy to be mislead.







I'm more inclined to take notice of UK videos. Sorry about that etc.

The first batch were around Agtron 40 and went oily pretty quickly. I'd burnt a fair amount off.







It's easy to see the smoke coming off at that level. Might be useful.

Looks like I am going to fit the regulator in the lid - directly over the fan on the lids vertical face in that area. It's cool there.

John

-


----------



## johnealey

Hi @ajohn

I would take what you read on the internet with a pinch of salt given most of the advice is based on commercial roasters which behave very differently to the little gene so temps etc are not directly transferable.

If you have the guide that came with the gene if bought originally from Bella Barista there is some good guidance on there as there is on the todays roast thread as possibly mentioned earlier.

I found first crack to be a pain to hear on most beans but MM was by far the easiest to hear but smell is also a good indicator as is smoke.

Keep at it, you'll get there eventually

John


----------



## Rob1

ajohn said:


> There is a UK video that suggests that the Gene plays with this according to the temperature that is set based on roasting times but it would be easy to be mislead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm more inclined to take notice of UK videos. Sorry about that etc.
> 
> -


The gene turns the heater on and then off when it reaches a set temp, then on when it drops and off again and so on. I'm not really sure what else you mean.


----------



## MediumRoastSteam

@ajohn, also confused by quoted post. The whole idea behind the dimmer mod is that one can set the element to a lower wattage instead of the default behaviour of turning on/off.

Out of curiosity, do you have a link to this UK video?

Thanks.


----------



## ajohn

Yes, managed to dig it out of my browser history. Pass on if the comment he makes is correct but it implies something is going on with the heater as he reckons that setting at 250 and then dropping back to the temperature he wants when it gets there gives him a faster roast. It could just be that it avoids the on off heating if he sets it higher initially rather than straight to it. Trouble is that only seems to be a couple of degrees.






If I can get a thermocouple directly in the airflow I'll find out one way or the other anyway.

I like his choice of temperatures seems to be rather similar to the ones I intend to use. The first crack one has worked fairly well.

John

-


----------



## ajohn

johnealey said:


> Hi @ajohn
> 
> I would take what you read on the internet with a pinch of salt given most of the advice is based on commercial roasters which behave very differently to the little gene so temps etc are not directly transferable.
> 
> If you have the guide that came with the gene if bought originally from Bella Barista there is some good guidance on there as there is on the todays roast thread as possibly mentioned earlier.
> 
> I found first crack to be a pain to hear on most beans but MM was by far the easiest to hear but smell is also a good indicator as is smoke.
> 
> Keep at it, you'll get there eventually
> 
> John


That link is on bean temperatures not what they are roasted in. :yuk:And I am afraid I am going to try and make use of them.

John

-


----------



## johnealey

As is your choice to do so, experiment away. they are your beans and your roaster after all







I genuinely wish you all the best in your journey to beans you enjoy

I will however refrain from offering any further pointers, if that ok, as having roasted in excess of 150 kg's in the little gene before roasting over 220 kgs in the Amazon it does rankle a little when helpful pointers are offered, not just by me, to try and smooth the way a little yet seem to be ignored or dismissed for the sake of self learning.

Sorry if this offends is not meant to, just explaining why shan't offer input in the future. You will get there in the end and may well learn something we have all missed along the way

John


----------



## Rob1

ajohn said:


> Yes, managed to dig it out of my browser history. Pass on if the comment he makes is correct but it implies something is going on with the heater as he reckons that setting at 250 and then dropping back to the temperature he wants when it gets there gives him a faster roast.


He's incorrect. There are a number of reasons heat up time would vary, especially when you preheat the roaster. Voltage fluctuation, the weather outside, beans mass and bean size and moisture content will all play a role, as will the cleanliness of the mesh screen/fan and chaff collector. Not really sure why he can't 'sanitise' the drum while the beans are in there roasting at 230c+...


----------



## ajohn

Rob1 said:


> He's incorrect. There are a number of reasons heat up time would vary, especially when you preheat the roaster. Voltage fluctuation, the weather outside, beans mass and bean size and moisture content will all play a role, as will the cleanliness of the mesh screen/fan and chaff collector. Not really sure why he can't 'sanitise' the drum while the beans are in there roasting at 230c+...


Yes I know. I have other reason to want to get a thermocouple into the hot air flow - you've mentioned a couple. It's a may be can do.







My supplier sent connectors but no thermocouple and when I get it I may not be able to fit it. Worse still I had to buy expensive as cheap K types sheathed in fibre glass all seem to have shrink wrap on the end now.

The limited preheat idea he has may be of interest for the reason he mentions but not sanitising. Cleaning everything was the first thing I did after just one brief trial. Also improved the fit of the hood on the chaff collector. The plastic forming the main body of it had warped a little over time so the hood was rather loose.







I may have overdone that a little. Time will tell.

@johnealey







Thanks for that attitude. I'd agree with you 100% generally about any info on the web on any subject. However amongst the chaff there are sometimes little gems. What swung it for me on the sweetmaria link was a video of roasting at Illy. Hot air not drum as there page on the subject suggests and at a temperature of 210C which ties in fairly well with the link. Then in pops a science type to explain why 210C. The results of my first successful roast ties in too. The iffy aspect on that is the actual bean temperature that I reached. Also acidity of the bean I am using - it should have some maybe i have too much so on to the comment about CO2 in the link to see if there is any mileage in that. Then at some point 2nd crack. The microphone I've added does picks up 1st pretty easily and I hope 2nd too. It sounds like it should. If not then try a Mk2. Must admit I have started on the basis that I must be able to hear the cracks. Beans and other things vary so in some respects as there is no sampler there is little else to go on. Just using sight and colour could waste a lot of beans.

John

-


----------

