# Grinder paint job



## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Picked up a fully functional but slightly battered major. Now summer's rolled around the refurb is in full effect. Curious what people would suggest colour wise and if there's any painting tips i should take into account other than sand, prime, paint, gloss.

Current potential colours:


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

As a method I would suggest powder coating or polishing and transparent powder coating.

And one suggestion for the colour, although not a powder one.

BR


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Food for thought


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

L&R said:


> As a method I would suggest powder coating or polishing and transparent powder coating.
> 
> And one suggestion for the colour, although not a powder one.
> 
> ...


Have you been speaking to Jeebsy?


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

I did my super jolly bright orange. Looks the bees knees imo


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## Nopapercup (Nov 6, 2016)

I'm about to refurb an old Pavoni which will include painting the base Having never done this before does anyone have any suggestions on the type or brand of paint I should buy? Presumably I'll also need a primer?


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Nopapercup said:


> I'm about to refurb an old Pavoni which will include painting the base Having never done this before does anyone have any suggestions on the type or brand of paint I should buy? Presumably I'll also need a primer?


Listen to @jimbojohn55 - from what I recall he's using Hammerite (hammered finish) paint for LaPav bases.

https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?42247-Pimp-my-70-s-Disco-Pavoni-time-machine

Usually you have to prime only if painting bare metal. If old paint is chipped, cracked etc you might want to strip it first.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

how olds the pav? if its pre 75 then spray hammarite 4 coats - you can use hammarite undercoat (its water based - no idea why coz hammerite isn't!) but its designed for it . If its post 75 then google a local powder coater take it to them and for £40 or less they will strip of the old powder coat and put on the colour of your choice - if keeping it original Brown, Black metallic or Red - or go off piste ;-)

If its powder coated and you try stripping it yourself, you will be swearing a lot - let the powdercoaters do it for you

If you use do strip it and spray it yourself it will look great but will sustain a lot of damage and quickly.

Ive got a base I did on my first pav that ive got to take to get done with powder coat in the next week or so

Edit - if you go the Hammerite route allow it a month to harden - seriously


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## Nopapercup (Nov 6, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> how olds the pav? if its pre 75 then spray hammarite 4 coats - you can use hammarite undercoat (its water based - no idea why coz hammerite isn't!) but its designed for it . If its post 75 then google a local powder coater take it to them and for £40 or less they will strip of the old powder coat and put on the colour of your choice - if keeping it original Brown, Black metallic or Red - or go off piste ;-)
> 
> If its powder coated and you try stripping it yourself, you will be swearing a lot - let the powdercoaters do it for you
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim.

I think it's a 78-83 going by Francesco's site. Below is a photo of it, I haven't yet see it. It's waiting for me in Swansea and I'll pick it up in 2 weeks.

I'll do a post for it when I start and see what colour others think I should paint it. Don't think I could live with that brown.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Shame as it's original


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## Nopapercup (Nov 6, 2016)

coffeechap said:


> Shame as it's original


It does seem a shame not to keep it original. I'm hoping it looks better in the flesh.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Im switching mine from black metallic to a plain red - but will keep it to the pav red - If you go with a light colour, it will show up every drip and coffee ground - probably why they did a range in brown


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

jimbojohn55 said:


> If you go with a light colour, it will show up every drip and coffee ground


Oh yes, I can tell you a thing or two about that on my silver/grey base









But it's a matter of preference. I like to see when it's getting dirty (pun intended), because without knowing there'll be no cleansing...


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## Nopapercup (Nov 6, 2016)

They should have done a boiler in brown as well especially with a naked portafilter.

Did they make these in any other colours?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Nopapercup said:


> They should have done a boiler in brown as well especially with a naked portafilter.
> 
> Did they make these in any other colours?


I think the chrome and brown at the time the red and black came in later, will depend on exact year.


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

After many many hours of sanding (thank god we have an electric hand sander) this:









Is primed


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Still trying to decide between these though


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

if you'd ask me, go for the one on the right


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

Nopapercup said:


> Thanks Jim.
> 
> I think it's a 78-83 going by Francesco's site. Below is a photo of it, I haven't yet see it. It's waiting for me in Swansea and I'll pick it up in 2 weeks.
> 
> ...


I went with the original brown but would have preferred the orange/red of the professional version. It just seemed wrong to make it incorrect.

https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?42909-Another-bit-of-70s-style-being-revitalised


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Ok guys id be unbelievably grateful of advice from someone who knows better than me because i've found about a million bits of conflicting advice on various painting forums.

My plan coats wise was 2x primer 2x base coat 2x lacquer. Ive found now that my 2 layers of base coat are down and dry that ive had little bits of overspray particulate land and make the surface a bit rough/bumpy as if dust had been trapped in the paint. Bearing in mind that my acrylic base paint is now totally dry and so unlikely to provide a suitable bonding surface with the lacquer as it is, do i:

A) dry/wet(?) sand with 800 ish (or more?) grit then clear coat

B) sand then re-coat with base then clear coat (means buying another can - not preferable)

C) clear coat despite bumpiness then sand+polish after

Or D) could the roughness that needs to be dealt with be solved with a good wipe with a tack cloth


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Overall im super happy with the colour and coverage, just don't want to ruin it in the finish

Its hard to see the roughness on the surface when its properly illuminated but this second pic kind of shows what i mean


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

If its metallic base coat you will need to recoat - if its a solid colour then smooth the surface very gently with 1200grit wet and dry - be aware that if you rub to hard on any edges you are likely to rub through to the primer.

You could just lightly rub down then put on he clearcoat - but again rub down between coats of the clear

The paint will bond even if the base coat is fully dry as long as you key the surface with 1200 g then wipe of the dust.


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> If its metallic base coat you will need to recoat - if its a solid colour then smooth the surface very gently with 1200grit wet and dry - be aware that if you rub to hard on any edges you are lily to rub through to the primer.
> 
> You could just lightly rub down then put on he clearcoat - but again rub down between coats of the clear
> 
> The paint will bond even if the base coat is fully dry as long as you key the surface with 1200 g then wipe of the dust.


Amazing thank you, just what i needed. A lot of the posts that scared me were professionals saying that sanding the base would show through the clear but i assume 1200 is fine enough that i'll be safe and actually I was going to have to key the surface before clear coat anyway


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

The first few things I painted with spray cans came out looking very similar. I decided I wanted a smooth finish so rubbed down with sand paper to smooth off and then recoated to cover up the thinned paint. Put it down to learning what I was doing - spray cans can be a real pain to use. But ultimately if the finish is not going to bother you then just put the lacquer on (after keying ofc) and be happy with your handy work!


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Dylan said:


> The first few things I painted with spray cans came out looking very similar. I decided I wanted a smooth finish so rubbed down with sand paper to smooth off and then recoated to cover up the thinned paint. Put it down to learning what I was doing - spray cans can be a real pain to use. But ultimately if the finish is not going to bother you then just put the lacquer on (after keying ofc) and be happy with your handy work!


Yeah i think youve nailed it, i could kind of tell as i went that i was shooting myself in the foot. I think the main problem was lots of nervy sprays from a bit too far away and then dry particles settling on flatter surfaces. Hopefully a little rub with 1200 grit will deal with the worst of it as i have a feeling most of the bad bits are loose, and will make a judgement call then


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I think your probably spot on, I'm no expert but I think the 'right' technique is fully depressed strokes in side to side motions starting and stopping at the end of each stroke. Definitely takes some practice to get good at but most of the time you will come way with a result that does the job just fine.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Few things on spray cans









- You need to cope with what they provide. Very different from air brush or paint guns, where thickness of paint, amount of air, width of nozzle and such bits may be adjusted. Especially air output is aggressive so need to speed up

- buy professional stuff (artistic, graffiti...) for highly pigmented and thick paint

- there is an number of different caps from thin to wide (fat) to calligraphy and also a difference in nozzle quality: cheap/standard ones tend to spit

- as with every paint system, there's a thin line between applying too little or too much

- always do overlapping single strokes that go well outside your object - so you avoid paint build-up at turning point

- always keep a steady distance (depending on paint type, speed, cap and accuracy)

- always keep nozzle at a slight forward angle (facing area not yet covered) to avoid dusting wet paint. Failing here means matte or bumpy finish

Good luck colouring!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Interested to see the Kobra paint range - its huge - all mat high solids - and only £3.25 a can plus postage direct from them

https://kobrapaint.co.uk/hp-spray-paint

Seems to be designed at the Bankseys of this world - but will give it a go in the future


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

A.

It's like making a mirror, for a great finish you want the clear bit to be smooth on both sides of the layer.


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

jimbojohn55 said:


> Interested to see the Kobra paint range - its huge - all mat high solids - and only £3.25 a can plus postage direct from them
> 
> https://kobrapaint.co.uk/hp-spray-paint
> 
> Seems to be designed at the Bankseys of this world - but will give it a go in the future


I have to say im a big fan, the two colours I got are both amazing in person. No clogging like some amazon reviews suggested which makes me think people were misusing the cans and not clearing the nozzles after use. As for my overspray as discussed i think it would be unfair to blame the paint...


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

The 1200 grit worked an absolute treat and we're smooth as anything... unfortunately it flagged up a couple of imperfections that obviously now have to be perfected so more paint is on the way after all


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

The 1200 grit worked an absolute treat and we're smooth as anything... unfortunately it flagged up a couple of imperfections that obviously now have to be perfected so more paint is on the way after all


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

tobyjrn6 said:


> The 1200 grit worked an absolute treat and we're smooth as anything... unfortunately it flagged up a couple of imperfections that obviously now have to be perfected so more paint is on the way after all


Bet you're glad you found the imperfections now instead of after the clear went on.


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

ashcroc said:


> Bet you're glad you found the imperfections now instead of after the clear went on.


100% - turned out there was a little run from priming that my base coat had masked


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

ashcroc said:


> Bet you're glad you found the imperfections now instead of after the clear went on.


100% - turned out there was a little run from priming that my base coat had masked


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

tobyjrn6 said:


> 100% - turned out there was a little run from priming that my base coat had masked


I saw a sprayer do his own car once. He sanded between every coat to get the finish he wanted. Needless to say, that never happened with a customer's car!


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

ashcroc said:


> I saw a sprayer do his own car once. He sanded between every coat to get the finish he wanted. Needless to say, that never happened with a customer's car!


Sort of funny and reassuring at the same time if you can get a 'professional' finish without being perfect at every step. Granted a bad job by his standards is probably still quite a high bar for a first time painter with spray cans haha


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Ok final call for info from you wise people

Acrylic based lacquer is now on - a v light first coat and 2 heavier at 10ish min intervals

Some painting forums seem to suggest leaving it 2 weeks before i touch it to finish up the finish, any thoughts on that as a timeframe?


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

If the weather stays very hot, then perhaps just a few days of it being in a very hot well ventilated place. A couple of weeks would be necessary if it were cold weather.

It may well be dry enough to sand and hand polish in a day or so, but you want the top surface of the paint to sink down into an imperfection in the metal.


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

the trick is if you can sniff it and it smells of the paint then its still drying - agree with Mr Clements 4-5 days will see you right if it still smells of the paint leave it longer, sometimes the lacquer drys and slows the drying of the paint underneath it - just proceed with caution and take your time with reassembly , and we want a picture when its done as well


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Ok amazing cheers guys! And itll be the first thing i do, promise


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

The finished setup complete with the mum's unfinished tiling (definitely much more turquoise in person)


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)




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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

tobyjrn6 said:


> The finished setup complete with the mum's unfinished tiling (definitely much more turquoise in person)


Nice colour.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

oh so good!

you'll need a new towel now... them colours won't match







@MildredM here's some work to do...


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## tobyjrn6 (Dec 22, 2016)

Hasi said:


> oh so good!
> 
> you'll need a new towel now... them colours won't match
> 
> ...


Haha very true, ive got a nice little collection of colours but all in the wash after all the damn polishing and cleaning


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