# GAGGIA BoostBox



## FairRecycler

Hi everyone,

I thought I'm going to "outsource" the final touches to my kit, and let you guys to add your ideas, criticism, thoughts, in order to get an even better and more useful kit.

I greatly appreciate every single comment, as it helps to match the taste of the wide range of end-users, no mention of the valuable expert comments, which I usually learn a lot from here.

Please excuse me for the quality of photos, these are only for rough guidance. I'll upload some proper photos soon.

What is the GAGGIA BoostBox?
It is a purpose designed and built, 3D printed enclosure, accomodating a PID temperature control kit, and a liquid / glycerine filled 41mm pressure gauge tapped in to read dynamic brew pressure, pre-assembled ready for installation.
As everything is wired up it's only the matter of connecting the 8 wires (individually colour coded), replacing the thermostat to the PT100 sensor (screw out - screw in), and fitting the piggyback with the pressure gauge tapping to the boiler (task like replacing the o ring on the solenoid valve).

It is located beneath the water funnel extending the height of the machine by 50mm (2")
It is also accomodating the SSR (there is only one SSR covering both the brew and the steam function) with a dedicated heatsink.
The PID controller is identical to the well known Mrshades kit, and other common versions, with the exact same menu and parameters (XMT7100).
The pressure gauge is tapped from the boiler via a machined brass piggyback block.

Sidenote: The heatsink is sticking out from the rear plane but it aligns with the main cables IEC connector, so you not loosing any space behind the machine, it can still be located at the same position as it was prior to the installation.

When will it be available?
I work around the clock to get it finished, tested and stocked up properly for late August - September. (Not a lot left to do but the pressure gauge, and instructions)

Please care to share your thoughts.

There is also a dedicated topic for the pressure gauge itself, below:
https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/53171-pressure-gauge-discussion-experiment-improvement/#comments

The kit will be available
-Pre-assembled
and also as a
- Full DIY kit (empty enclosure with all parts to populate with)
to fit everyones needs.
(Partial, kit will be available upon request too.)

I'm willing to share the CAD design and the STL file too, for those whom want to modify/improve/personalize it, as well as the BOM (note that the PID controller is manufactured to order, however guidance is available for customisation of the generic model).

If someone would decide to fund the injection moulding tool costs, and CE certification, it could probably turn into a business - I believe what I've done so far, is a more than sufficient base for that.
I do have further ideas (probably some of them isn't my idea, but I took them further to a manufacturable level) to implement, for a version 2,3 and 4.

I believe an "S Class" modded Gaggia Classic model (used but rebuilt including new boiler, so I would rather call it remanufactured) shouldn't cost more than £5-600 ( the fully loaded DIY kit is estimated to £3-400), but would definitely beat anything on the market below £1k (probably even used ones) with a significantly smaller footprint than anything what matches the capabilities.

Kind regards
Peter


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## MrShades

Looks good Peter! I've had various ideas over the last few months for PID mounting also - including a 'Batman's Utility Belt' like that (it's a shame gauges aren't smaller as my non-gauge design is only 40mm, it's the gauge that increase the required height annoyingly).

Ive already had feedback on my version that an additional 40mm wouldn't allow a Classic to fit under some kitchen cupboards, so 50mmmay be an issue for some.

I'm not sure if this will make it into production and be available on the website but it may be a mounting option.


































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## L&R

I like the box extension idea less heat and moisture there and looks integrated, about the PID and gauge this could be an Arduino based with only one display.


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## MrShades

L&R said:


> I like the box extension idea less heat and moisture there and looks integrated, about the PID and gauge this could be an Arduino based with only one display.


Yeeees.... that's another sub-project that I started some years ago! Finding the time to turn it from a box of wires and breadboards and small OLED screens into anything that might be useful in an espresso machine is taking some time.... maybe when I retire I'll have the time!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phario

This looks really excellent Peter / @FairRecycler and I have enjoyed our many conversations about your designs over the last few months. I've been really impressed at your desire to perfect the components.

The integrated gauge design will be particularly important for those people who want the same on a 2019 model, where the gauges can't be installed into the front.

As I noted elsewhere, UK kitchens are often limited for space, and you should consider that in many kitchens, the cabinets will provide a limiting height. I have measured my own countertop-to-cabinet distance and it is about 47cm. Before my kitchen renovation, this was even lower.



FairRecycler said:


> I believe an "S Class" modded Gaggia Classic model (used but rebuilt including new boiler, so I would rather call it remanufactured) shouldn't cost more than £5-600 ( the fully loaded DIY kit is estimated to £3-400), but would definitely beat anything on the market below £1k (probably even used ones) with a significantly smaller footprint than anything what matches the capabilities.


 Note by footprint I guess you mean horizontal footprint rather than volume.

The marketisation is an interesting aspect, and unfortunately I'm a scientist and not a businessman. Some points to consider:



Have you done any research on the target audience for this? Is it men or women? People at what age? People who want what kind of device? How much are they willing to pay?


My understanding here is that the main audience for the 'modding' community is small. I recently talked to a friend who bought a Breville Express and he noted that his wife complained about having such a 'large' obtrusive device. These considerations are in play when you think about who the target audience is. I'm not sure about the claim that it "would definitely beat anything on the market below £1k" would fly. I suspect that if you surveyed random people who are willing to put out £1k, they would much prefer to buy a Mara-X or similar device. Most coffee enthusiasts on these forums who have modded their Classic seem to move away to double boiler machines later on. They have fond memories of their efforts on the Classic but seem to have little regrets with moving on. Cue @timmyjj21 who I talked to about this.


I think that the coffee modding community shares a lot with the PC modding community that I grew up with in the early 00s. Early in the PC modding communities, people were making water-cooling setups with aquarium pumps, milled water cooling blocks, car radiators. Nowadays, you can buy all these things as kits jammed to the brim with LED lights. I remember how hard it was to obtain an aluminium water-cooling block 20 years ago, and now you can buy them for £5-10 from China. However, there may be intrinsic differences in these two scenarios because with the Gaggia Classic, you are looking to provide an all-in-one kit for a single machine (that is limited by a single boiler), while with the PC modding communities, these are add-ins that are universal.

Another consideration is the resell value. As we know, the Gaggia Classic is an incredibly strong re-seller. Most of the time, if you're buying a used <£200 machine, you can easily get back what you paid for the machine. However, this is not true for mods. PID mods add only a fraction onto the price (so little in fact that most people are better off selling the PID separately). People will sell a refurbished Classic for £175 but struggle to sell a PID version for £225. Someone who pays £3-400 for your Boost Box is going to lose a ton of money when they want to resell. That said, I know of people who bought a brand new 2019 machine for £400. In that light, paying £5-600 for a decked out modded version (pre-2019) is not absurd.

I have a good understanding of the margins for the PID/gauge/dimmer but not for the 3d-printed box. Ultimately in commercialising the idea, the question is whether the margins are worth it, given the niche interest.

Just to be clear, I think this is fantastic idea and I'm super excited. I'm not qualified to talk about sales and margins and I should leave this for the experts. I hope this post doesn't come out as being a Negative Nancy---I'm just critical as always with any idea.

Knowing how thorough you are though, Peter, I'm sure you would have already thought of the above.


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## Valkyrie88

Hmm ...would there be enough room for a shot timer LED screen to go on the right hand side of the gauge? THAT WOULD BE FRIKING AWESOME !!!!


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## Valkyrie88

Come to think about it, symmetry / looks aside, I think it would be very useful for newbies (and others) to have more control over such a key variable!


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## FairRecycler

MrShades said:


> Looks good Peter! I've had various ideas over the last few months for PID mounting also - including a 'Batman's Utility Belt' like that (it's a shame gauges aren't smaller as my non-gauge design is only 40mm, it's the gauge that increase the required height annoyingly).


 Thank you.

I would love to see sketches of the Batman's utility belt version 

Very truth, gauges come with a price, however it's only 10mm. I'll definitely make a slim version integrating the funnel to the print and shave off that 9mm from top. BTW I could go 5mm lower due to the gauge, but the SSR not letting me, that limits the height in the way it's mounted, but I really like it as it.

Are you including the SSRs in the enclosure?



L&R said:


> I like the box extension idea less heat and moisture there and looks integrated, about the PID and gauge this could be an Arduino based with only one display.


 Yes I know it's shouting for that, however as @MrShades said there is hell of a lot to work on such a project. Unfortunately I have zero knowledge in that topic, so I have to skip that.

However a good friend on mine working on a microcontroller for me 😂 but that's far far away in the future...

@phario

Thank you.

Yes the height could be an issue this lead me to develop it for more than 2 months (I've started from 70mm and gone down to 50mm). As I mentioned above there will be a slim version. At this moment it raises to 16" (40.6cm) and I think with the slim version going just below 400mm it's not too bad. According to your kitchen, it is possible to fit both (MrShades and mine) on top of your machine 😂 this is impressive.

I do apologize for everyone for my uncontrolled enthusiasm according to the marketisation, especially for statements on thin air about the capabilities, and comparisons. Obviously I have not even started to work on further versions, I am also aware of limitations of this tiny boiler. I'll try to edit that section. @pharioThank you for pointing at this section for me.



Valkyrie88 said:


> Hmm ...would there be enough room for a shot timer LED screen to go on the right hand side of the gauge? THAT WOULD BE FRIKING AWESOME !!!!


 Behind that blank area there is a massive water funnel I'm afraid. 😂

However I'm the fan of symmetry too. 

Maybe one day.

There is a lot to do with this version still, but thank you for highlighting possibilities.


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## FairRecycler

The 2nd alternative of filament arrived yesterday. After doing some research and realising the very limited availability, due to high demand for Matt black colour, I decided to try 2 different types.

The first print of this filament came out quite well this morning. The surface isn't as smooth as the other one, neither as Matt, but I think it's a better match to the original top. Also it is a much more forgiving material, the other one was a real pain to work with I still couldn't figure out how to get rid of those marks on the right side of the pressure gauge hole.

On the photos the top and the standalone unit is the new material.

Which one do you prefer guys?

Also I wanted to ask, would you advice to close the bottom of the box or leave it open to allow airflow between the machine and the box? Why / why not?

Personally I prefer to close it, to be on the safe side in case of any leaks in the machine.


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## phario

FairRecycler said:


> The 2nd alternative of filament arrived yesterday. After doing some research and realising the very limited availability, due to high demand for Matt black colour, I decided to try 2 different types.
> 
> The first print of this filament came out quite well this morning. The surface isn't as smooth as the other one, neither as Matt, but I think it's a better match to the original top. Also it is a much more forgiving material, the other one was a real pain to work with I still couldn't figure out how to get rid of those marks on the right side of the pressure gauge hole.
> 
> On the photos the top and the standalone unit is the new material.
> 
> Which one do you prefer guys?
> 
> Also I wanted to ask, would you advice to close the bottom of the box or leave it open to allow airflow between the machine and the box? Why / why not?
> 
> Personally I prefer to close it, to be on the safe side in case of any leaks in the machine.
> 
> View attachment 42734


 I think the first is obviously better (smoother, it seems).

How easy is it to drill into these ourselves?

In terms of open vs. close, I assume that it doesn't matter much from a heat perspective. The is little convection in the machine (no fans as a PC would have). Whether it's open or close, the interior will basically tend to the ambient temperature of the interior. I assume on that basis that closed may be better since it is then 'boxed' and protected from splashes.

However, aligned with my first question, I don't really see the point of making it closed as it just causes more trouble for later modders. If a modder wants to add their own modifications, attachments, or repair, then they will end up taking out the bottom surface. I'm not sure how it works on a cost basis as well. Plus I don't know how you intend to close it (as in a hatch that can be opened or fully sealed?) and how this jives with the pressure gauge or overall wiring (will you make a hole to pass the different tubes?).

By the way, for that gauge, why is a lower notch required?


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## FairRecycler

phario said:


> By the way, for that gauge, why is a lower notch required?


 There is a rubber cap on the side of the gauge, sealing the glycerine chamber's fill/drain/top-up hole.



phario said:


> How easy is it to drill into these ourselves?


 You can drill the top and the bottom of this actual design, but not the sides as it would cause the layers to split. I think the best way of forming is a soldering iron. PLA starts to melt around 170°C but it's better to double check as it tends to deform from excessive heat.

Good point to add a removable bottom plate, thanks for that. Cost wise it won't make a real change, and I could either use other materials to make a bottom plate.


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## phario

FairRecycler said:


> There is a rubber cap on the side of the gauge, sealing the glycerine chamber's fill/drain/top-up hole.
> 
> You can drill the top and the bottom of this actual design, but not the sides as it would cause the layers to split. I think the best way of forming is a soldering iron. PLA starts to melt around 170°C but it's better to double check as it tends to deform from excessive heat.
> 
> Good point to add a removable bottom plate, thanks for that. Cost wise it won't make a real change, and I could either use other materials to make a bottom plate.


 Not being able to easily drill the sides might be a big factor so you might want to confirm how difficult it is to create new openings.

If it's too hard to drill I guess you need to think about what might go into the sides (did you intend to put something in the right of the gauge). Like dimmer or something.

I doubt this idea is desirable but I guess you could put tabs into the 3d design which might make it easier for people to 'punch out' slots. But that's just a silly idea.

I really like the rear ssr slot design by the way.


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## FairRecycler

FairRecycler said:


> You can drill the top and the bottom of this actual design, but not the sides as it would cause the layers to split.


 I should have check it prior to assuming. You can drill it.



phario said:


> did you intend to put something in the right of the gauge). Like dimmer or something.


 I'm not aiming to add anything else to this version, I'm better to finish it off first 

I'm hoping to take it further later on but the clearance is very limited on that side due to the water funnel. At the very top it's only 12mm and it increases to 20mm at the bottom 

You can't fit a lot there I'm afraid.


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## FairRecycler

Some photos of the gut, back, and temporary mounting for installation.


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## phario

Dang that's a nice design. I assume the heatsink is flush with the ssr?


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## FairRecycler

@phario Thank you.

Yes it is. The SSR is oversized to keep the heat emission low, but as it's mounted on PLA it's better to keep it near to room temperature.


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## phario

The main thing that bothers me about the design (now that I remember there is the funnel) is the intrinsic asymmetry due to the PID and gauge.

I guess you could put a Boost Box logo (that's mostly a joke) on the right. But design-wise it looks uneven.

I'm just being picky I guess. I should point out that with a black pid front, it doesn't look as asymmetric and might just be a lighting aspect in your pictures.

Maybe a dumb question, but why not recess the funnel deeper (level with the original top)? I'm not sure how/whether you're using the oem funnel but the question is whether a design can be done so that the right side is clear.


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## L&R

On the right you could put pump dimming knob + pcb  but the funnel should be smaller. Nice looking box became.


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## Valkyrie88

Boom! looks great and now that I can see the internals i get how the funnel can limit options for a timer (guess I'm not an abstract thinker haha).

However if you have gone through all the effort already, could you not review the funnel design? I mean how big does it really need to be? could it not just have a smaller funnel face and a tube-y thing attached to the bottom that feeds into the reservoir?

I haven't considered all the +/- 's but from a user perspective it would just mean we would need to perform the re-fill pour action a little slower with a smaller funnel face - a trade off I guess most could live with.

If that sounds workable, maybe you could offer the timer OR dimmer as a custom option to suit user needs 

For me that would be another added value / USP for BoostBox and far as I know, there is no current offering for these options that allow us newbies to simply plug & play!


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## Agentb

FairRecycler said:


> is located beneath the water funnel extending the height of the machine by 50mm (2")


 Peter this is a good idea, and i can see some good suggestions like a floor up there.

Is the original funnel is being raised, and then as Valkyrie88 suggests



Valkyrie88 said:


> and a tube-y thing attached to the bottom that feeds into the reservoir?


 The only minor thing is i often leave a cup or two to warm on the tray, and you will lose a small amount of tray space as cups overhang the water cover now. I cant see them fouling the PID unless you're clumsy.

I have a simple kitchen timer attached by magnet next to the front switches, i don't think i'd like it moved unless it was fully automatic.

It's certainly a mod i'd think about. 👍


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## phario

@FairRecycler

So I think at some point above, I discussed the whole open vs. closed bottom and the temperatures.

There is an interesting article you might read here: https://callanbryant.co.uk/blog/well-integrated-pid-temperature-control-of-a-gaggia-classic-espresso-machine

about someone who puts the PID into the body itself via a custom 3D printed top that removes the funnel. Basically the author comments on the 55C operating max temperature of his PID.

Anyways, it's worth tossing a temperature probe inside the case and putting it into steam mode to see how high your temps rise. It's probably less than his given your vented design and external heat sink.


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## FairRecycler

@phario @L&R @Valkyrie88

Thank you for the brainstorming on this. I admit I'm not considering to add more features at this point, however your ideas helps me a lot on further versions. On the other hand in the case of individual needs I'm more than happy to provide the CAD design for customisation and I can still print it. I'm also happy to make minor customisation for individual orders like an extra cutout.

I'm still not sure on integrating the funnel in the design, because of the cleanability of 3d printed objects (due to the grooves between the layers and the poor temperature resistance). I'm not entirely sure I would love to pour water through such a surface into my machine.

However I have an idea to utilize that blank surface:

I would stand my phone there with a wireless camera connected ( pointing at the bottom of the filter basket ) to inspect the flow, as I'm fed up with bending to the worktop, but yet can't resist it.


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## FairRecycler

phario said:


> @FairRecycler
> 
> So I think at some point above, I discussed the whole open vs. closed bottom and the temperatures.
> 
> There is an interesting article you might read here: https://callanbryant.co.uk/blog/well-integrated-pid-temperature-control-of-a-gaggia-classic-espresso-machine
> 
> about someone who puts the PID into the body itself via a custom 3D printed top that removes the funnel. Basically the author comments on the 55C operating max temperature of his PID.
> 
> Anyways, it's worth tossing a temperature probe inside the case and putting it into steam mode to see how high your temps rise. It's probably less than his given your vented design and external heat sink.


 Thank you for this, thanks for your post I'm in the progress of tracking temperature inside there, with the owen and hob on all the time to simulate Miami (at least it really feels like summer


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## FairRecycler

I'm just about to review the heatsink mount, as it's design proven to fail while upside down for installation.

It is a simple 2mm stainless rod bent 90°at the top end, homed in two holes (top and bottom).

It has to be something easily removable yet stable in normal and upside down position too.

Thank you in advance.


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## phario

FairRecycler said:


> I'm just about to review the heatsink mount, as it's design proven to fail while upside down for installation.
> 
> It is a simple 2mm stainless rod bent 90°at the top end, homed in two holes (top and bottom).
> 
> It has to be something easily removable yet stable in normal and upside down position too.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> View attachment 42958


 In what way is it failing?

I had wondered previously about your mount but no photos were close enough to examine.

Have you examined cpu mounts for inspiration? I believe most of them will use either a tensioned clip or a spring. Presumably you do need some sort of tensioning. Perhaps putting a spring through the bolts?


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## FairRecycler

@phario

There is a 2mm stainless steel rod inserted from the top, through holes on the enclosure at the top and the bottom of the heatsink. The rod is bent bent 90° at the top end to avoid sliding through. The mounting holes positioned to give just a bit of a tension (not to stress the enclosure too much )

Now when the enclosure turned upside down (for installation) the rod can slide out (bear in mind it did only slide out with heatpaste not applied, but it made me wonder if there is a feasible but better solution)

The overall height is 50mm, the heatsink cutout is 41m , the height of mounting holes is 2.5mm each, and the radius of the bend is 2mm while the rod is 2mm itself, so there is no more room to play with


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## phario

I'm a theoretician...I think this calls for a handyman.

I understand the restriction now...and probably why you don't use a tensioned solution. Are you just asking how to keep the rod in? I suppose having a nut that threads to a finite length of thread (so people don't accidentally crack the plastic)?

I do wonder how good is this design though...it seems strange because the tension is not along the axial direction of the bolt, but you're using the plastic itself to keep the heatsink in. So the stress is applied in a shearing direction to the clip that keeps the bolt in. If the tension is not sufficient to keep the rod in when flipped, I wonder what that means for contact with the heatsink. If I understand your design, there is no way to 'tighten' it---so what happens when the plastic expands or contracts with temperature changes? Is it possible that after time, the heatsink begins to slip?

I know your heatsink is not designed this way, but if the fins were going the other way, you could have the SSR bolts go through, put a spring, then have an aluminium clip/bar across (horizontal) that is held down with a nut. That would be a good solution that has the pressure applied in the correct way and in a fashion that doesn't stress the plastic.

I suppose in theory you could do that simply by machining a groove into the leftmost and rightmost fins. Then simply use some sort of clip that goes perpendicular to all the fins right down the middle. Not very elegant though.

...stupid question: is that heatsink rectangular or square?


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## FairRecycler

Thanks @phario I'll have to read it through this morning.

It's a 40*40 square.


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## FairRecycler

Not posted updates for a long time 

During temperature testing, I've noticed deformation of the box (front bottom edge turned wavy), so I decided to pull away from PLA and now printing ABS. The view angle of the instruments wasn't satisfactory to me, so I made some angled designs. Also moved the instruments a bit to eliminate the large blank spot on the right.

Now I have 3 alternative designs and I thought I'm going to ask for some input on them.

Please follow the link below for photos.

PHOTOS

photos (the ones from further away) taken from 5'5"(165cm) and 2' away the machine to represent an average view angle.

Probably I`ll keep the straight version anyway, and offer one of the tilted ones aside - however the view angle of the straight one is quite bad, I understand that`s the most streamlined one and there should be demand for that.

Any impressions / ideas / opinions would be appreciated.

Thank you


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## Blue_Cafe

I like (love) this.

The tilted approach is my fav.

Great work. Makes the PID look half decent instead of a shed-esque fudge 👌


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## FairRecycler

Thank you @Blue_Cafe

Would you please specify which tilted version do you prefer V2 or V3?


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## Blue_Cafe

V3 for me. Looks clean.


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## Jollybean

V3 for me also


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## sokoma

On my gaggia, I have a switch that allows me to control the pressure. Perhaps that would be interesting to have that somewhere?

I already have my pid but when the box is available I will be interested in buying it!


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## FairRecycler

Thank you @sokoma

Yes as others mentioned above, it is a good idea indeed.

However this will be released as it is, as I believe it is a great thing on its own, saving people drilling out their case and sticking PID's to the sidewall.

Probably there will be an additional pressure controller designed to fit this kit, at a later point as an upgrade (there is a working PWM control board in one of the draws, requiring some testing/tuning frequency wise).

What principles your controller based on?


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## sokoma

I bought it already modded but I have a dimmer switch plugged to my pump.


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## allikat

I don't mind 2, it has some style to it, but 3 does look easier to clean. Also, with just picking up an old worn out Classic, I'm very interested when money allows.


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## FairRecycler

sokoma said:


> I bought it already modded but I have a dimmer switch plugged to my pump.


 Thanks.

Would mind sharing your preferred design please?

Thank you


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## sokoma

V3 or v1 as a 2nd choice!


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## MrSmartepants

sokoma said:


> V3 or v1 as a 2nd choice!


 Same for me.


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## timb

sokoma said:


> V3 or v1 as a 2nd choice!


 Yup, me too!


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## Nightrider_1uk

timb said:


> Yup, me too!


 Same here V3 then V1


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## FairRecycler

Hi everyone,

I'm far behind with updates on here, I'll try to sum up everything in short.

Lately I found out the PID can possibly overheat in the case the machine is being left on steam mode for more than an hour. This caused misreading of the RTD signal and so 2-3°C fluctuation in temp made the algorithm struggling to settle down at a stable temp when switched back to brew function.

overheated PID 

By now I settled with a closed cell silicone sponge sheet insulation at the bottom of the boost box, this also effects as a bottom shield so water can't get into the top neither. It was challenging to find a secure, but quick release and also easy to install fitting method for this, but finally I managed.

There is also a 40mm 12V DC silent fan at the rear of the BoostBox encouraging air circulation within the box, with a 12V DC PSU. Again mounting and positioning was a bit of a pain, but I'm happy with the current status. On the flip side the 12V DC PSU opened some other options like LED lighting, or to power a pump controller for pressure profiling - in the future.

I've also revisited the pressure gauge, due to several reasons, but more about that on the relevant thread soon.

I decided not to sell it individually this year, but building up machines with the BB to gather sufficient amount of experience and feedbacks, for a user friendly installation process, supported with a clear step by step guide.

I really enjoy the on the fly temp surf.

I include some photos of the recent machine up for sale on eBay. It was a pleasure to build this one, I've never seen such a clean and spotless machine before.


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## FairRecycler

Advanced way of bricking a boiler:

Upon assembly I've tightened up the steam valve bolts (replaced them to stainless, as the original ones were slightly corroded), after that I've noticed the steam valve wobbles still??? Tried to loosen the bolts with 50% of luck.

I suppose the thread wasn't cut deep enough (it was strange when I removed the original bolts, it was very stiff so I had to use the ratchet all the way out)

So now I'm in the lucky position to drill out that bloody stainless bolt from the boiler... What a lovely Monday evening 🌅


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## FairRecycler

I've never managed to find the centre of a bolt this perfectly before. The thread is immaculate (and yes I've re tapped it, and there was another 3mm to cut at the bottom), so we are back on track now 😃


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## bargi

it's worth it just for the light in the water tank 

who thought it was a good idea to make it smoked!


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## Steve H

Hi Peter,

We spoke on eBay yesterday. I'm loving the V3 design. Personally I think the asymmetry works really well.

Very keen to be a beta tester of the finished kit. I think it looks awesome!


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## FairRecycler

Hi Everyone,

I decided to offer the next BoostBox-ed Classic on here only, for a limited time, on a discounted price.

It is a 2010 machine with some scratches on the left side and wear on the top plate and the drip tray plate, the switch is also worn.

It comes with a BoostBox and a Rancilio wand on top of the usual refurbishment (new o rings, Cafelat seal, cleanliness ...(

This will come with a WHITE PID and a bright white pressure gauge.

£400 posted (to UK mainland via UPS 2-3working days) with all the above included if paid via BACS or PayPal friends and family.

It is customisable as always please get in touch for details

Kind regards

Peter


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## FairRecycler

I think the white PID looks great. It would probably be even better with the cold / bright white LED, above the he water tank.


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## FairRecycler

1/ The hero of my day is the freshly 3D printed jig for cutting the heat insulation to shape. 

Until now it was the most painful step of the assembly.

See before and after photos below 

2/ I'm welcoming suggestions to pressure profiling options into the BoostBox. After inaccurate results with the PWM controller hooked up to the ULKA, I've done a brief research and I think I'll upgrade the pump to the ARS/Invensys. I can't use a simple dimmer nor a generic DC motor controller, due to size limitations inside the box, so it will be a custom made PCB.

Any experience and/or thoughts about the difference between voltage control and PWM would be greatly appreciated. Preferably I would go with a very fine and accurate control from 1 to 12 bars.

Thank you in advance


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## No Heroes

Do you plan to sell these without a PID for those who already have one from MrShades, or will it be a complete set?

I can't wait to be able to get one of these for my Gaggia Classic Pro! There just isn't room to put a gauge up front and I don't want it hidden on the side.


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## FairRecycler

Hi everyone,

I'm wondering if anyone from the UK is interested in testing the beta of the no PID version for pre 2015 models (for those who already have a PID fitted (preferably a MrShades kit)?

I'll be able to send one out by the weekend on a very friendly price, I prefer it to get fitted within 2 weeks.

The test piece also comes with a dimmer suitable for any pumps and LED lights.

Drop me a lead if interested.

Thank you


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## byjoshuawilliams

Got myself one of @FairRecycler's beta test boostboxes and fitted it over the weekend. Still working out how to best use it, but so far loving it! Useful bit of kit, definitely takes things to the final level with the GC. Any general advice to get the most from using a dimmer? Currently experimenting with pulling shots at 6.5 bar instead of 9.


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## Zatogato

byjoshuawilliams said:


> Got myself one of @FairRecycler's beta test boostboxes and fitted it over the weekend. Still working out how to best use it, but so far loving it! Useful bit of kit, definitely takes things to the final level with the GC. Any general advice to get the most from using a dimmer? Currently experimenting with pulling shots at 6.5 bar instead of 9.
> 
> View attachment 55495


 Looks great! Mine arrives tomorrow and I opted for a similar setup in terms of the walnut steam knob to match tamp/pf heheh.


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## byjoshuawilliams

Zatogato said:


> Looks great! Mine arrives tomorrow and I opted for a similar setup in terms of the walnut steam knob to match tamp/pf heheh.


 I'm also replacing the top tray and water tray with walnut.


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## 27852

This looks awesome, shows how far you can take the GCP to be an amazing machine for individual use.


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## byjoshuawilliams

Kjk said:


> This looks awesome, shows how far you can take the GCP to be an amazing machine for individual use.


 Yeah it does, it's been expensive adding all the upgrades and I didn't get the machine for cheap in the first place but I wanted to see how much I could improve the coffee by adding all the upgrades. There's not much else to do in terms of the running of the machine. I have a mad idea to try and find someone to remake the chassis in copper to go with the walnut but that is way down the line.


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## 27852

byjoshuawilliams said:


> Yeah it does, it's been expensive adding all the upgrades and I didn't get the machine for cheap in the first place but I wanted to see how much I could improve the coffee by adding all the upgrades. There's not much else to do in terms of the running of the machine. I have a mad idea to try and find someone to remake the chassis in copper to go with the walnut but that is way down the line.


 How are you liking the 6.5bar shots? I reduced the OPV on my Elizabeth but didn't go far enough - at 8bar but at the same time changed beans so I have no basis for comparison.


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## byjoshuawilliams

Kjk said:


> How are you liking the 6.5bar shots? I reduced the OPV on my Elizabeth but didn't go far enough - at 8bar but at the same time changed beans so I have no basis for comparison.


 I haven't pulled enough yet to fully compare. It seems to less intense, and bring out some more nutty flavours, especially in milk. I'm going to try upping the dose of beans (18.5 to around 21) in my normal cortado to see if I can get a stronger coffee whilst keeping the extra flavour profile.


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## furu

I'm waiting for a Gaggia boostbox kit from @FairRecycler and I have in the meantime spent some time enjoying the instructions he sent me. They are very nice!

But not only are the instructions very good, I'm also very impressed by the build he has done.

This is a very thorough pice of work!

All connectors, the pressure gauge block by the 3/2 valve, the heat insulation, the small plastic washers, the service 'hangers', etc.

It will be some hours of real joy to mount this into my machine.

Although I'm a mechatronic engineer (but 'trapped' as a manager... ) I have not the hours available to design and build this by my self. Would love to do it, but with guys like @FairRecyclerout there I rather pay for excellent work.

Can't wait to receive the kit and get my GC upgraded!


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## Zatogato

furu said:


> I'm waiting for a Gaggia boostbox kit from @FairRecycler and I have in the meantime spent some time enjoying the instructions he sent me. They are very nice!
> 
> But not only are the instructions very good, I'm also very impressed by the build he has done.
> 
> This is a very thorough pice of work!
> 
> All connectors, the pressure gauge block by the 3/2 valve, the heat insulation, the small plastic washers, the service 'hangers', etc.
> 
> It will be some hours of real joy to mount this into my machine.
> 
> Although I'm a mechatronic engineer (but 'trapped' as a manager... ) I have not the hours available to design and build this by my self. Would love to do it, but with guys like @FairRecyclerout there I rather pay for excellent work.
> 
> Can't wait to receive the kit and get my GC upgraded!


 It's been very well worth it in my experience!


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## furu

What will be the additional heigh (or total height...) for the GC with the Boostbox on top?


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## furu

furu said:


> What will be the additional heigh (or total height...) for the GC with the Boostbox on top?


 OK, info in the first post...sorry.

"It is located beneath the water funnel extending the height of the machine by 50mm (2")"


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## furu

Did the installation a week ago, and I went from a few good shots from time to time to a good shot every time - and sometimes a really great shot.

The dimmer is an excellent tool 

I am still at a learning curve....

Thanks to @FairRecycler !


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## SCD

furu said:


> Did the installation a week ago, and I went from a few good shots from time to time to a good shot every time - and sometimes a really great shot.
> 
> The dimmer is an excellent tool
> 
> I am still at a learning curve....
> 
> Thanks to @FairRecycler !


 Looks great! Is it available to buy now? Where did you get it?


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## FairRecycler

@SCD

Hi,

It's not advertised yet, however I can fulfill individual orders (240V only), but only with the initial version of the installation guide. I'm currently working on the final version of this and also on the webshop.

Kind regards

Peter


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## Vsutarov

http://imgur.com/5dhfMx2


https://imgur.com/YUGToqo



http://imgur.com/kJcbah0


This is my diy simple boost box.Box made from piece of black acrilic that I had,banded with heat and glued.Inside the box I put diy PID(controlled with arduino,sensor is very nice DS18b20 put down on the group witch is much better), 3 position switch for temperature set, on/off pump switch,dimmer electronics,potentiomete for the pimp switch,mobile charger for controller 5V supply,pressure gauge(not connected,fittings not received yet).I put some sponge insulation on the bottm and made few holls on the back.Safety valve set on 9bar.

Sorry I can not upload images directly to coffeeforum.


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## Parklife

FairRecycler said:


> @SCD
> 
> Hi,
> 
> It's not advertised yet, however I can fulfill individual orders (240V only), but only with the initial version of the installation guide. I'm currently working on the final version of this and also on the webshop.
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Peter


 Hi Peter,

I'm interested in purchasing for a pre-2018 Gaggia classic, currently no PID mod. You mentioned you can fulfil individual orders. Can you tell me the cost please? Thanks


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## jfc

Hello! Just new to the forum. I discovered it via this boostbox thread.

Just wanted to say this is an amazing work! I am following closely.

PD: I have a Classic 2015 model and I would be keen to install this.


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## rontheotherhand

Watching this thread closely! I recently had my heavily modded GC powder coated and i'm loathe to drill into the lovely white chassis for fear of messing it up. Like the idea of a box on top to house PID, gauge and a dimmer switch...

Any idea on price @FairRecycler


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## FairRecycler

Hi,

A complete BoostBox will be around £200+shipping, this includes the PID, pressure profiler dimmer, pressure gauge and LED lights above the water reservoir).

There will also be a version without PID for those who already have one and willing to relocate it into the BoostBox. That will be around £150+shipping.

These should be available for 240V markets by late September.

Regards

Peter


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## rontheotherhand

Amazing! Count me in. Setting a reminder for late September now...


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## sheerbvrdvm

Amazing work! Will there be a version for 120V markets coming in the foreseeable future?


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## Huwu57

Hi @FairRecycler

When would you be open to receiving orders, and how would we go about requesting one? Do you ship to the US?


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## FairRecycler

sheerbvrdvm said:


> Amazing work! Will there be a version for 120V markets coming in the foreseeable future?


 Hi,

Thank you

Yes, hopefully the 120V version will follow by the end of October


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## FairFrozen

Hey there! Just saw your mod posted on reddit and love it! Wondering when I can get in on an order for a 110v one?

I unfortunately JUST bought the Shades PID so it's possible to get the mod without the PID in it so I can transfer mine? How annoying will that be?

Let me know on any updates!


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## JavaRay

@FairRecycler I also came across a post on reddit with the boost-box and am interested in the 110V option.

Do they work across all models and what is the cost? Feel free to send me a PM.

Thanks!


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## mrpinkdonttip

Hello! Please forgive me spamming you in a few different place tonight, wanna make sure I reach you. Please let me know asap when I can buy a 120v boostbox for my 2012 Gaggia Classic in USA. Thanks!


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## guiniol

@FairRecycler Is your offer of sharing the CAD/STL/BOM still open? I really like your idea and would like to add my own tweaks, especially since I am not constrained by height: add a live pressure adjustment and make it out of wood. Those two things are already a big project for me, so starting from what you have already made would help a ton. And of course, I'd be more than happy to share back what I come up with (I'll probably need help to even get there if I'm being honest ).


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## FairRecycler

Hi,

I will definitely do that at one point, but it won't be a lot of help without detailed instructions how to populate it, it is quite difficult to manufacture these. As now I have done quite a few installation guides, I see how big of a task it is to creat one for a DIY version, so that probably not going to happen any soon. Sorry.

FYI a flow control dimmer is included in the final version:


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## bbstrikesagain

@FairRecyclerI'm doing my own mod, planned before I'd come across the boost box. But it's similar, PID brew (alarm steam), pressure gauge, dimmer, shot timer, LED tank light. I've settled on an off-the-shelf black anodised aluminium housing at the right hand side.

As mine is a Classic Pro the gauge has to be external to be visible, but the capillary can easily be tee'ed into the brew feed. I've even ordered a compact brass block instead of the typical bulky tee.

Your connection block looks SO MUCH NEATER than cutting into the braid wrapped hose, and easy to return to OEM too. Have you considered listing that part separately on ebay?


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## FairRecycler

@bbstrikesagain

Great work!

Thank you.

I will definitely do so, but due to the number of orders I get, that won't happen this year, I'm afraid.

If you're happy to wait, please drop me a PM, so I can set a reminder to let you know when it's available.

Kind regards

Peter


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## guiniol

FairRecycler said:


> I will definitely do that at one point, but it won't be a lot of help without detailed instructions how to populate it, it is quite difficult to manufacture these. As now I have done quite a few installation guides, I see how big of a task it is to creat one for a DIY version, so that probably not going to happen any soon. Sorry.


 I'd be happy with what you currently have and I would do the adapting to my needs myself.



FairRecycler said:


> FYI a flow control dimmer is included in the final version


 I saw, it's awesome!
What I want to add is a way to adjust the OPV without opening the machine (it also means replacing the valve as I have a Classic Pro).


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## rolex13

Peter, could you kindly send the link to manual, I didn't succeed reaching you via email. It's Pavel.


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## bitcoin

Hi, any updates on the 120 volt version for US markets? Where can I go to purchase a boost-box kit?


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## FairRecycler

bitcoin said:


> Hi, any updates on the 120 volt version for US markets? Where can I go to purchase a boost-box kit?


 Thank you for your interest.

DM sent.


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## Guest

Hello I'm in the U.S and I will like to purchase one of your boost box, can you let me know the process.thanks


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## sokoma

Hi,

I have been struggling to fit it... Would someone be interested in doing it for me in exchange for a bit of money?

Thanks


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## sokoma

Worth noting that Peter has been super responsive and helpful... Hopefully Ill get it fixed very soon!


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## Dinodinero

Hello Im interested in purchasing a boost box. Please can you let me know the process thanks


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## Bij

I am also interested in 120V US version.


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## NotUrAvgJoe

Very interested in this enclosure. I have a PID (auber) already installed, would like the pressure gauge and ability to add a rotary dimmer for sure.


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## FairRecycler

@NotUrAvgJoe

Hi,

There will be a noPID version of the BoostBox, however due to the number of orders I keep receiving directly I have decided to delay that for a while.

On the other hand I highly recommend to go with the complete BoostBox instead, due to the following reasons:

- It includes the intrashot temp surfing feature.

- Easier to install

- The price difference is only 40-50 GBP.

Kind regards

Peter


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## NotUrAvgJoe

@FairRecycler

Bummer, but understand you are only one man. Fair point re full BoostBox, but I'd rather not purchase another PID. Seems wasteful, even if the price difference isn't great. Any way to fit the other components around my existing model with the NoPID version once that becomes available?


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## FairRecycler

NotUrAvgJoe said:


> Any way to fit the other components around my existing model with the NoPID version once that becomes available?


 I am not sure I understood correctly.

The noPID version will include everything (dimmer, gauge, LED light, active cooling) and the cutout to relocate the PID to.


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## NotUrAvgJoe

@FairRecycler

Great. I thought you were advocating for purchasing a kit including a PID, though I have one already. Looking forward to placing an order once you re-open.


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## choicedkarp

Sent a PM inquiring about a boostbox


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## dennisvdberg

@FairRecycler

I've been reading up on your progress on the boostbox, and it seems really nice! Especially the design to reduce flutter on the pressure gauge.

I would very much like to install one on my (stock) gaggia classic.

Is it also possible to receive all parts except the plastic housing (as I would like to install a full enclosing like this one)?


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## sokoma

Got my boostbox all fixed and installed. It works really well and is awesome!

One quick question, I saw on your videos that you have the PID at 93 degres temp. Would you be able to explain why 93 degre and not 102 / 103 like I read in few places? Is it because of your temp surfing?

Thanks


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## FairRecycler

sokoma said:


> Got my boostbox all fixed and installed. It works really well and is awesome!
> 
> One quick question, I saw on your videos that you have the PID at 93 degres temp. Would you be able to explain why 93 degre and not 102 / 103 like I read in few places? Is it because of your temp surfing?
> 
> Thanks


Hi,
Sorry I somehow missed this.
It is because I applied a -8.0°C offset in menu 0089/PSB setting, so the temperature I see on the PID is the assumed output water temperature.


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## FairRecycler

Sorry I haven't been here for awhile, so I missed updating the thread.
Here is the latest add-on for the BoostBox:
_A bit of information about my automatic shot timer for stock, PIDd, TopBoxed or BoostBoxed GAGGIA Classics & Classic Pros (and for many other espresso machines)




_


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