# Gaggia Classic electrical problem



## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Hello,

My first first post on this forum.

I have an old (10+ years) Gaggia Classic with the Mr Shades PID mod and upgraded steam wand. It's generally been in good working order and over the years I've replaced parts such as the pump and the boiler gaskets. The other day there was a strong electrical burning smell which I tracked down to the Gaggia, so I switched it off. I tried turning it back on some time later and it tripped the mains circuit breaker.

One likely cause is a short circuit which may have been caused by the upper plate bracket being loose. This is the rectangular metal piece which sits around the main switch inside the machine - it had come loose and had slipped down onto the top row of switch connectors. The mains circuit break still happens with the bracket out of the way.

Does anyone have any idea which parts I've most likely fried? If it's a major repair I might consider getting a new machine.

Many thanks.

Andrew


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## Agentb (Feb 11, 2017)

Could be anything.

If there's a strong smell you should be able to sniff out or visually see a suspect.

I'd try removing one / then two of the boiler elements and see if the that isolates it...

??


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

It's always possible that one of the elements has gone and shorted to the case. The other option is that the rattling around of the loose part has scratched the insulation of a wire in an annoying spot. Another possible is that one of the switches has decided to be faulty in an annoying way, since they're their own little 240v parts, they could be at fault.

The usual principle of fault diagnosis applies here as it does everywhere. Unplug one thing at a time and test, noting when the problem stops. Then try plugging in the other parts one at a time to just make sure there's not 2 broken parts in there.

The main failure mode of the solid state relay is to close permanently, switching on the power to the connected device and leaving it on. Which would result in a burned out element and a possible short there. Given the easy availability of spares for the Classic, then definitely fix it (or post on here a while more and then sell it as a fixer-upper).


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Could be many things. Have a sniff around the internals (literally!) and get some pics up.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Remove the switch retaining clip and pull the switch bank forward. Carefully examine the area where the clip touched the switch for any signs of burning / scorching.

With the M/ch UNPLUGGED.


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Many thanks for the comments and suggestions, I'll investigate further and let you know what I find.


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Hi,

I've disconnected the switch and there are no obvious signs of scorching there, though a lot of the plastic connector covers have fallen to bits, having gone brittle with age. The brew temp light had stopped working years ago.

What has caught my eye is the component below which looks like it may have been charred, it's relatively new as it came with the PID kit. Does it look suspicious?

If I were to do some testing, by reconnecting things one by one, are we talking about reconnecting to the switch, and if so what might be a sensible order to reconnect (whilst ensuring the lose ends are all insulated)?

Cheers for any help ?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The charred connection is the brew temperature to the PID, in addition to the charring there is white powder on the cable. Have you spilt any liquid / coffee on the top plate ?

Carefully peel off the red sleeve and examine condition. What is the loose floating connector (top R of photo)

Had the M/ch been left on for a long time when you smelt the burning? Had you refilled the boiler (via the steam valve after last shot ?)


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Hi,

I'm not at home now so can't examine the machine until later, however, nothing was spilt as far as I'm aware. The machine had perhaps been on for an hour or two - it's usually on for several hours a day, and has been used like that for many years. It's on a timer, so comes on before we get up, goes off mid morning, comes on again for the evening, etc. We have never done anything specific to refill the boiler regardless of the last operation of the machine. I do tend to run the machine for a couple of seconds to wash out the shower plate after a shot.

I'll report back after examining and trying to peel back the red sleeve.

I've disconnected all the wires from the main switch, so the connector at the top right is one of those.


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Hi,

The red sleeve isn't going to budge without cutting it away. There's no white powder, just white wire insulation and reflections.


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Hi all,

It was easy to solve this mystery once I stopped looking inside the machine! ?


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Well, either that plug was making poor contact, or it indicates a bigger problem inside the machine. I'd hope for the former. New kettle lead and hope the issue goes away I guess.


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## lake_m (Feb 4, 2017)

Check the machine (Male) side power pins are not corroded and are making a good contact. Use emery cloth or fine sand paper to remove corrosion if you find any. Also check the male socket for damage.


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## Winny (Feb 4, 2020)

Thanks all.

The machine is working as normal now. The male part of the power connection seems to have got away with it and just needed a clean-out of charred debris. As I'd recently tipped the machine backwards to refit the shower screen, the cable must have come half loose at the time. Lesson learned!


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