# Sick Gaggia - Is it Just a Steam Valve Replacement Required or Worse?



## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

My Gaggia Classic seems to be in a bit of bother. Tonight when I put on the steam switch and it reached temperature initially water spurted from the wand even though the knob was turned off and after I bled that out so that there was only steam coming out and steamed my first jug of milk, whilst waiting for it to get back up to temp for the next cup steam came from the group head and streamed out of the wand. I guess the steam valve is buggered but is that also the cause of the steam coming out of the group head or is more major surgery required?

There has been a little steam escaping from the wand before but never spitting water and no steam from the group head either.

I have descaled it but to no avail.

Luck I bought an Aeropress today, although I could have used the money to buy a new valve If I'd known.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The steam wand valve is "kaput" , they are non serviceable. They rely on a tapered needle valve (soft brass) engaging in an equally soft seat. Over tightening and particles of scale settling in the seat cause the wear. A straightforward replacement, cost about £ 35.

When you said "waiting for it to get back to temp for next cup, did you mean coffee OR for steaming ? Either way you would need to refill the boiler and this should displace /replace the steam.

It would be worth stripping the solenoid valve completely to make sure there are no particles of scale in the seats or have damaged the seals.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks EC, yes I meant waiting for the temp to increase for the next steaming of milk.

Looks like a new steam valve then and as you say I'll check the solenoid valve too.

Thanks for your help.


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## simon333 (Oct 30, 2014)

If you have DIY skills and would like to save some money there is this option !

Follow this link.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

You can remove the"SWAGED" area on the end of the steam valve with a junior hacksaw quite easily. Having done this I found the spindle valve and the seat "appeared" OK but still leaked.

I also tried reworking the taper on the end of the spindle and the tapered seat, all without success.

In addition to the soft brass needle and seat, particles of scale from descaling settle on the seat and gouge grooves when the valve is closed.

In my opinion it is not worth the effort.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Only £33 for a new valve and I know one end of a spanner from another so I'll give it a go.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Pompeyexile said:


> Only £33 for a new valve and I know one end of a spanner from another so I'll give it a go.


It requires a 5 or 6 mm allen key and a 17 mm O/E spanner or adjustable You may well need a heavy bladed flat screwdriver to "lever" the steam valve out of the boiler, they tend to corrode themselves in. Just gentle leverage and move S/valve about. Clean around S/valve first and blow any bits away just before you lift it out, don't let bits drop into boiler.


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