# Mazzer Super Jolly "Paint it black" refurb



## jimbojohn55

Couldn't resist the chance to buy£120 Super dooper Jolly the other day as a 50th birthday present to myself. The item was listed on ebay and spotted by other forum members - my thanks - I put in an offer of £120 inc postage which was accepted - to my surprise they sent it 1st class parcel force and it arrived today, less than 48hrs after purchase as a cost of £23 postage to the vendors!

As with all things ebay its a case of it wont be quite as good as the pictures show - but with planning to refurb it I was ready for any issue, I spent last night reading up on bearing replacement and removal but to my delight there is zero movement in the spindle and it runs almost silently with just a slight hum. the finish of the paint work is pretty good, but it will be repainted anyway - probably in satin black (motorhead jolly) ;-)

So a quick evaluation of the jolly out of the box - issues to address

1 - Burrs of mixed origin - one worn one not ??? - need replace with new pair, I'm looking at these for £19 made by foodfriendly (italmill) http://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/Mazzer-Super-Jolly-Long-Life-Grinder-Burrs-Pair-RH-64x38x85/m-2608.aspx

here is italmills website http://www.italmill.it/en/azienda.php - I like to know who makes my cheap burrs.

2 Doser acrylic has a fracture - replace

3 There is no hopper - looking at options - lens hood, mini hopper, tube etc

4 Strip down and clean doser, remove microswitch and jump the connections.

5 Repaint - Prob satin black

6 Install a timmy adjustment gauge - (on order before he returns to Oz)

here's some pics before I start


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## pips

I'd love to see a "DIY" of restoring this to life...Good luck !


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## jimbojohn55

Hi @pips If you like grinder action !! here is my first refurb project a Rossi RR45 - http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?31854-Pimp-my-Rossi-RR45&highlight=rossi+rr45


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## pips

jimbojohn55 said:


> Hi @pips If you like grinder action !! here is my first refurb project a Rossi RR45 - http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?31854-Pimp-my-Rossi-RR45&highlight=rossi+rr45


Excellence, will have a look


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## Missy

Just don't Google grinder action....


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## pips

Missy said:


> Just don't Google grinder action....


Did a quick search for "grinder action" and found nothing...Highly disappointed!


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## Stevied62

jimbojohn55 said:


> Couldn't resist the chance to buy£120 Super dooper Jolly the other day as a 50th birthday present to myself. The item was listed on ebay and spotted by other forum members - my thanks - I put in an offer of £120 inc postage which was accepted - to my surprise they sent it 1st class parcel force and it arrived today, less than 48hrs after purchase as a cost of £23 postage to the vendors!
> 
> As with all things ebay its a case of it wont be quite as good as the pictures show - but with planning to refurb it I was ready for any issue, I spent last night reading up on bearing replacement and removal but to my delight there is zero movement in the spindle and it runs almost silently with just a slight hum. the finish of the paint work is pretty good, but it will be repainted anyway - probably in satin black (motorhead jolly) ;-)
> 
> So a quick evaluation of the jolly out of the box - issues to address
> 
> 1 - Burrs of mixed origin - one worn one not ??? - need replace with new pair, I'm looking at these for £19 made by foodfriendly (italmill) http://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/Mazzer-Super-Jolly-Long-Life-Grinder-Burrs-Pair-RH-64x38x85/m-2608.aspx
> 
> here is italmills website http://www.italmill.it/en/azienda.php - I like to know who makes my cheap burrs.
> 
> 2 Doser acrylic has a fracture - replace
> 
> 3 There is no hopper - looking at options - lens hood, mini hopper, tube etc
> 
> 4 Strip down and clean doser, remove microswitch and jump the connections.
> 
> 5 Repaint - Prob satin black
> 
> 6 Install a timmy adjustment gauge - (on order before he returns to Oz)
> 
> here's some pics before I start
> 
> View attachment 22117
> View attachment 22118
> View attachment 22119
> View attachment 22120


Just buy a new one you tight bugger







:exit:


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## Dylan

Would suggest spending the extra £10 on proper Mazzer Burrs would be worth it, not going to break the bank and you know what your getting.


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## jimbojohn55

Dylan said:


> Would suggest spending the extra £10 on proper Mazzer Burrs would be worth it, not going to break the bank and you know what your getting.


too late ! - I always like the underdog and as @steve62 says I'm a tight git, - the italmill burrs are supposed to be extra hardwearing - I will put a micrometer to check consistency and put some close up shots - your probably right about the genuine ones for an extra £10 but funds are tight at the moment.


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## jimbojohn55

Stevied62 said:


> Just buy a new one you tight bugger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :exit:


Nah - I wouldn't get that smug feeling from having paid just £120


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## timmyjj21

The SJ I am selling has unbranded burrs, and they look and feel just like the official ones. I wouldn't have concerns with them.


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## jimbojohn55

Missy said:


> Just don't Google grinder action....


I think your missing out - here is some grinder action !











you've got to love a super hero with safety glass's


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## pips

Legend...How did I miss this !!


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## jimbojohn55

Ok its Friday night the Rio opening ceremony is on - but yawn it takes 1hr to get the teams in zzzz so the only action in town its Mazzer time - I probably don't intend to use the front tamper but in case I sell it on it could do with a quick refurb , materials used cordless drill 1000 grit wet and dry paper and brasso to shine up

before then after -


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## ChilledMatt

Amazing what a bit of elbow grease and polish can do. Great job!


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## jimbojohn55

removing lower burr carrier without damaging the bearing seal plate - gadget thing. having read up on the conventional way to remove the lower burr carrier by just screwing in m4 bolts which as a result presses on the bearing seal plate causing damage, I thought there must be a better way so armed with a piece of scrap brass I used the old burr as a template and drilled out 3 holes in the disk, refitted the carrier central nut (not screwed all the way in so that the pull of the screws through the disk lift the carrier off the spindle)

pictures make it clearer









Yes the brass plate warps, but that's not a bad thing as it deforms rather than the burr carrier, to get the carrier all the way off required the plate to be removed twice and the central nut wound out to allow more upward movement of the carrier.


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## jimbojohn55

Mazzer Lower burr carrier - rough casting - I was surprised to find the burr carrier casting has its own burrs, perfect for catching coffee grounds, It may seem a little excessive but I decided to file them down hopefully to reduce coffee grounds retention.


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## jimbojohn55

update Painting and SJ Burr quality

I mentioned that I was going for the long life (cheaper) "food friendly" brand burrs at £23 from espresso solutions however they proved less than great quality - problem was that the loose plastic bag packaging lets them clank around in transit damaging the cutting edges - ES were mor than happy to take back and I coughed up the extra £10 @Dylan was right - better buy the original ones - they are much better quality









painting - stages

1 sand and fill 600grit wet n dry. 2 Etch primer sand 1200grit WnD 4 Satin black five coats WnD 1200 between each coat and wipe down with Panel Wipe - what else!


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## jimbojohn55

collar Adjustment Bean - been thinking about the adjustment collar lever - which is really just a rod and was missing from mine when I got it, yes I could use an m5 bolt but thought why not make more of a feature of it ...... so how about putting something on the end of the leaver to make it more tactile and positive to use, I toyed with a few different designs but came back to the idea of putting a large wooden coffee bean on the end of a plane black lever

starting point cutting down an Ikea allen key for the shaft, ground it down (drill and sandpaper) and softened the end on the gas stove to red heat then quenched it, Cut the thread with an M5 tap and die set then painted it black. The bean was just an off cut of oak, sanded on a sanding disc and then by hand , finished in teak oil then drilled with a 5mm drill bit.


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## Obnic

I love that idea.


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## jimbojohn55

Ta Dah


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## Jon

That paint looks AMAZING.


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## jimbojohn55

Jon said:


> That paint looks AMAZING.


Cheers -I think its just a case of prep (filing all the dings with body filler) and patience- taking a 3 days - (plenty of drying time between coats) and rubbing down gently with1200 grit wet n dry, satin or as I like to call it now SATAN black , is more forgiving to a surface as gloss will always show up any imperfections.


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## Missy

Forget the paint, I love the bean!


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## jimbojohn55

if there is a market for bean adjustment levers, I could do a batch, but wait on as I'm adding a wooden doser lid and wooden camera hood lid as well.


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## Jon

jimbojohn55 said:


> if there is a market for bean adjustment levers, I could do a batch, but wait on as I'm adding a wooden doser lid and wooden camera hood lid as well.


Can you do complete refurbs?!


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## jimbojohn55

Jon said:


> Can you do complete refurbs?!


I can, let me know if after something specific,


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## GCGlasgow

Looking good...can you do darker roasted beans?


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## jimbojohn55

GCGlasgow said:


> Looking good...can you do darker roasted beans?


Hi GC - I can, I know what you mean a darker wood or some stain may suit it better, but on this occasion, I'm going for the Oak look, American black walnut may suit it better or a deep mahogany, or I could just try roasting them ;-)


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## jimbojohn55

Pondering shrink wrap sweeper mods for a super jolly doser - I'm looking for something more permanent, I've measured the gap between the bottom star and the doser base with feeler gauges at 0.8mm (as you do on a sunday afternoon) it doesn't get more exiting than this! So my proposal is to use 15mm diameter heat shrink tube over each of the doser arms - Q has anyone tried it?


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## timmyjj21

Hey, interesting concept for clean sweep!

I use milk bottle plastic because it can be jammed in, moulds around the corners but is still resilient. The top star can be then tightened down on to the strips to hold them in place and keep pressure on them.

The big question is if the heat shrink fills the gap sufficiently and forms a nice seal against the doser bottom. I have both the heat shrink and grinder in transit to Australia...so can try it in about 3 months


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## hotmetal

Is it food safe? Is that even an issue - dunno but just a thought. That is a sweet refurb though. The bean lever is a really nice touch - I knew there had to be a use for all those Ikea allen keys! This could qualify for "most notable SJ refurb award" since Jared's Clockwork Orange one.


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## jimbojohn55

hotmetal said:


> Is it food safe? Is that even an issue - dunno but just a thought. That is a sweet refurb though. The bean lever is a really nice touch - I knew there had to be a use for all those Ikea allen keys! This could qualify for "most notable SJ refurb award" since Jared's Clockwork Orange one.


Its very kind of you to say so - maybe the sol is clouding your opinion  - I really like Jareds grinder but I can imagine the stencils coming off - (always thinking of worst scenario ) I was really thinking of a Motorhead Jolly for a while with metal badges but having as I came to see the engineering quality of the Mazzer I cant bring myself to move too far left field with it.

re food safe - well its pretty inert stuff, but you can get it in Food grade quality - hmmm


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## hotmetal

There's an idea - Leftfield. A nice sharks jaw motif hahaha! No, seriously, it looks class with that "Ducati Dark" matt/satin black vibe and the bean lever. One idea if you were going to add subtle graphics would be to use clear coat stencilled on. It's a well loved trick in the design trade - like printing black ink and doing a spot clear varnish for the logo or graphic. Not too in your face but perfectly noticeable. Last time I used that idea was for some promo leaflets for Gü puds.

Can't bring myself to drink that Sol - needs to be a baking hot day and gagging for one before it seems like a good idea. Still not sure what I was thinking. Today's beverage of choice has been a nice Sauvignon Blanc with my fish pie. And a café Asiatico.


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## jimbojohn55

clear coat is an idea - I did think about a stencil of Luigi Mazzer - but popular culture hes not - plenty of time yet to think on


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## hotmetal

That could be cool if you could get the right effect with posterising or solarising it in Photoshop. Can look really iconic. Unless everyone just says "is that your grandpa? " lol! The MMMM (rotated) logo thing could work - either in full at a similar size to the metal Mazzer badges, or maybe go really big and wrap it round the side and back, and/or side and front, so it crops off interestingly at the 'corner'. I can visualise it in my head bit not sure if my description communicates the idea adequately.


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## jimbojohn55

the MMMM has potential, great idea, might have a go at that !


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## Dylan

I would have thought heat shrink would get worn away if it's rubbing.


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## hotmetal

Yeah but isn't the clean sweep mod cardboard and leccy tape? (Never did it to mine, going from memory).


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## jimbojohn55

shrink wrapping lower mazzer star - as you do in the pursuit of a clean sweep

11mm shrink wrap tubing in black courtesy of toolstation £5 for a roll

1 cut to length for each leg of the star - 2 slide on 3 apply heat - voila etc - is it tried and tested yet? nope, does it clean sweep? I think so


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## timmyjj21

Sweet. The nice thing is (if it works) you will not longer need the middle star going on top, so can remove another coffee catching piece. Couple this with the mouse mod/ cocktail shaker it could make things super easy with a Mazzer doser....I hope it.works!


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## urbanbumpkin

Looks really good. Would the shrink wrap cause static?


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## jimbojohn55

urbanbumpkin said:


> Looks really good. Would the shrink wrap cause static?


I don't think so as the star moves relatively slowly - not tried it yet with beans as I'm still rebuilding. In my rossi rr45 the lower star is plastic and sweeps hard against the metal bottom of the dosing chamber without any static issues, fingers crossed for the Mazzer!


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## urbanbumpkin

jimbojohn55 said:


> I don't think so as the star moves relatively slowly - not tried it yet with beans as I'm still rebuilding. In my rossi rr45 the lower star is plastic and sweeps hard against the metal bottom of the dosing chamber without any static issues, fingers crossed for the Mazzer!


Let us know how you get on. Mazzer's are fantastic grinders, I've have had both SJs and Majors.


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## Jumbo Ratty

Really admire your work jimbojohn55, this looks like one of the most thorough referbs ive seen.

And the bean lever elevates it to another level, a touch of genius.


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## jimbojohn55

Super Jolly shrink wrap test 10...9....8....7...6...5 - mehh it seems to work









Before and after with one full rotation

There are a few specs of coffee visible if I was being pedantic - but it shows promise - now for a longer term test...


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## jimbojohn55

wooden rocket nose cone / SJ doser mod - I like the various cocktail and yogurt pot mods for the centre of the doser, but got thinking of what if I Put something taller in it to help prevent the grounds flying about (will be adding a flap soon) but thought something taller would be good - hence the acme Wooden Rocket nose cone mod. - My better half asked what I was making and remarked "Christ you can tell you haven't got a job at the moment"


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## jimbojohn55

Super Jolly gets a pair of wooden hats, - had to keep the doser lid quite thin to give clearance to the adjuster bean lever, went with oak which will be robust enough to not split if dropped as you do when you get up first thing in the morning


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## timmyjj21

Nice Work!


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## timmyjj21

Hmm... Just a random thought that came to me now, I could have cut and engraved your adjustment gauge using a laser grade plywood....


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## jimbojohn55

I didn't know you could laser plywood - that would of been great, oh well, you will have to let us all know once you get your hands on a laser in Oz


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## swai

I should have been following your progress from the start! I wish I was as hands on like you with the tools and ideas!

The heat shrink idea is great, i got a pretty good sweep when i just took out the spacer under the lower vane but yours looks nearly perfect.

I couldn't wait any longer and my grinder has been in use since yesterday. Quite happy with it I must say!

Keep the posts coming!


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## timmyjj21

Yeah, laser ply is very dry and tends to be quite pale - I like to use Poplar as the outer wood, but I think you can get a few other selections that are darker. It can warp a little as it gains moisture and the etching can be quite delicate with fine detail areas as the little pieces of plywood laminate can chip off the small detail pieces.

I will look into it if I get a chance...but any sort of eta would be a good 4 months at a guess!


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## jimbojohn55

timmyjj21 said:


> Yeah, laser ply is very dry and tends to be quite pale - I like to use Poplar as the outer wood, but I think you can get a few other selections that are darker. It can warp a little as it gains moisture and the etching can be quite delicate with fine detail areas as the little pieces of plywood laminate can chip off the small detail pieces.
> 
> I will look into it if I get a chance...but any sort of eta would be a good 4 months at a guess!


Thanks for the info -I will remind you in 4 months! Oz has some very unusual hardwoods - you might find one that has a very fine grain - probably like beech or maple - exotic hardwood mazzer rings, I'm sure there is a market - you might want to try the doser and hopper lids laser cut into wood same as the ones you made in acrylic. It took me a couple of hours to make mine I wish I could have laser cut them !


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## jimbojohn55

swai said:


> I should have been following your progress from the start! I wish I was as hands on like you with the tools and ideas!
> 
> The heat shrink idea is great, i got a pretty good sweep when i just took out the spacer under the lower vane but yours looks nearly perfect.
> 
> I couldn't wait any longer and my grinder has been in use since yesterday. Quite happy with it I must say!
> 
> Keep the posts coming!


Cheers Swai - did you paint it white? or is it still in process -( update - just seen your spraying pictures- looks good) I'm still uming and aring about the bullet in the doser instead of the cocktail lid or or yogurt pot.

With the shrink wrap I left the thin lower star washer in place it seems to proide the right depth for the shrink wrap - let me know if you would like some to try and I will put some in the post to you, cheers Jim


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## jimbojohn55

Super jolly aircraft nosecone doser mod - after experimenting with a wooden 60mm diameter bullet shape in the doser I'm now looking for a metal or plastic bullet to sit in the doser ontop of the middle star wheel, after several internet trawls ive come across "spinners" - used as propeller nose cones on model aircraft - usualy they have cut outs for the propeller blades but you can get them without, anyone tried this ? cost wise I can get them in aluminium or even carbon fibre (very smooth) for about £13 each


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## timmyjj21

The Dunhill cocktail shaker was a nice price last year on eBay, but they seem to be rare and no longer made now...

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dunhill-Black-Cocktail-Shaker-/282146063486?nav=SEARCH

They have a nice stainless steel cone that is easy to mount the same as the normal cocktail shaker mod.

The spinners look like a great option, but have the potential to be expensive in the UK. The only affordablecarbon fibre option I found was from hobbyking... But didn't investigate the shipping from the US when I realised the .co.uk site still wanted PayPal in USD.


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## jimbojohn55

timmyjj21 said:


> The Dunhill cocktail shaker was a nice price last year on eBay, but they seem to be rare and no longer made now...
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dunhill-Black-Cocktail-Shaker-/282146063486?nav=SEARCH
> 
> They have a nice stainless steel cone that is easy to mount the same as the normal cocktail shaker mod.
> 
> The spinners look like a great option, but have the potential to be expensive in the UK. The only affordablecarbon fibre option I found was from hobbyking... But didn't investigate the shipping from the US when I realised the .co.uk site still wanted PayPal in USD.


Hi , I couldn't resist the carbon one as its so smooth it will retain less coffee, found it in UK for £16 inc postage, so I've gone for that, and as its exactly the right diameter, I didn't spot the dunhill in my searches, but that would probably be cheaper!!

update - the carbon fibre 60mm spinner is no longer available, so I've settled for a 63mm aluminium one for £7.99 - in the mean time the grinder has made it into the kitchen


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## coffeechap

The dung ill one is spot on, have one in my custom Royal


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## jimbojohn55

coffeechap said:


> The dung ill one is spot on, have one in my custom Royal


But mine will be shinier







- having said that I fancy doing a royal next

actually - the carbon one is not available - but a shiny aluminium one is available here 2 1/2 inch - 63mm diameter http://www.ytinternational.co.uk/spinner/spinners.htm

in case anyone else is looking for one or cant get the dung hill


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## Jumbo Ratty

jimbojohn55 said:


> View attachment 22450
> View attachment 22451
> View attachment 22452
> View attachment 22454


at the risk of sounding like jamie oliver,,, in situ that looks Pukka mate


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## Obnic

Looks the business. I've really enjoyed this thread.


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## jimbojohn55

Obnic said:


> Looks the business. I've really enjoyed this thread.


Thanks, but its now back in the workshop with 3 more mods to come - airplane doser spinner mod, portafilter holder, and doser exit skirt thing - then I will stop - I promise


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## jimbojohn55

Super Jolly gets a portafilter holder - Ive been toying with this for some time, the standard holder fork makes you hold the handle of the portafilter while dosing,I didn't want to invade the kitchen worktop with an extended handle support.

My thoughts are that while single dosing with a doser you tend to spend much of the time squinting into the doser while "thwacking"! and turning the grinder on and off - so a handsfree holder would appear handy to free up a hand as it were. My solution an attachment to the holder fork with an aluminium holding lip, so that it doesn't damage the portafilter each time its used .


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## timmyjj21

That's a lovely piece of craftsmanship! How is the block of wood attached to the original rest?


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## jimbojohn55

timmyjj21 said:


> That's a lovely piece of craftsmanship! How is the block of wood attached to the original rest?


a couple of small stainless steel dome head screws - I don't like to drill through the original holder, but as its a replaceable part I thought well its the logical solution


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## timmyjj21

Nice. I assumed this was the method. Much nicer than having a cable tie around it!


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## jimbojohn55

super jolly get a high tec / low tec shnozler - using the free pdf of the shnoz print and cut out http://www.home-barista.com/downloads/shnozz-mazzer.pdf, I've been looking for something a little more permanent than paper or card one, I tried in very thin brass, but cant get the corners in the right shape, next I tried a fabric reinforced oven bottom protector sheet (sold in the Range £3.90) its a fabric coated and impregnated with silicon and super slippery but tough as old boots, once cut out and stuck together with double sided tape it simply push's into the doser delivery hole and helps prevent coffee going anywhere except the porta filter.

If any one wants one just send me a PM and I will pop one in the post for the price of a stamp - cheers Jim


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## Brewer in training

Liking the alternative shnoz....

Might have to imitate that....

(Will probably be ripping off the portafilter holder as well but might modify it in case it's under see copyright or patent!!!!)


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## jimbojohn55

Brewer in training said:


> Liking the alternative shnoz....
> 
> Might have to imitate that....
> 
> (Will probably be ripping off the portafilter holder as well but might modify it in case it's under see copyright or patent!!!!)


The shnoz material is actually PTFE coated, not silicon as I originally thought - and designed for the bottom of an oven, so pretty durable - let me know if you want any sizes for the portafilter holder, no copyright on my blue peter projects ;-) cheers Jim


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## hotmetal

jimbojohn55 said:


> no copyright on my blue peter projects ;-)


I wouldn't mind being your aunties and uncles at Christmas time!


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## jimbojohn55

hotmetal said:


> I wouldn't mind being your aunties and uncles at Christmas time!


I hope not they have all croaked !!!


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## timmyjj21

How is the clean sweep mod and nose cone going?


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## jimbojohn55

Hi @timmyjj21 - first nosecone or as we professional model pilots call them "spinners" ! arrived but had cut outs for the propeller :-( its a lovely quality piece of aluminium but wont do) - anyhow was only £8 - so back on line ive now found carbon fibre one from the USA without cutouts for $16 and its on the way. I'm also modding the portafilter holder as I wasn't happy with its look, needs more curves to fit in with the overall shape of the mazzer .







on the way from hobbyking in the USA


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## 9719

Having been thoroughly inspired by this thread, I've attempted to mod my eureka mignon, being fed up with beans catching on the posts in the hopper and having to stop the grind to prod them in the right direction. Ok I did it in a bodger type of a way, all sorts of cut down plastic bits and pieces cobled together. I really admire your workmanship, along with others on this site, only wish I could replicate it.

Having seen the carbon spinner thingy got me thinking that maybe it would look better than the plastic bodge, so after a search I found the following: - http://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Full-Carbon-Spinners.html yes I noted that it is more expensive, weird as it doesn't have far to travel, but may be useful to you or someone on here.

So it remains to ask if I bought one of these when would I be able to pop around for you to do one of your amazing fitting jobs?


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## jimbojohn55

Would be interested to see your bodge to get an idea - I take it that its a doser? - I'm waiting in the carbon spinners arrival to look at how best to fit it - hopefully its straight forward, if yours needs modding to fit, I would be quite happy for you to post it up for modification, no charge to forum members - particularly as were starting a new carbon spinner trend !


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## 9719

Firstly thank you for your very kind offer, it came as a complete surprise, such generosity is as rare as rocking horse ? doings these days !!! Secondly it's a hopper not a doser I'm after as the one on the mignon has a nasty habit of stopping the last few beans from reaching the burrs. I'm busy this evening but will take pictures (better than a thousand words) in the morning and upload them so you can see what you're letting yourself in for, before any commitment. Enjoy the rest of your evening....


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## 9719

Here I attach a couple of photos re my dodgy bodge of the Eureka Mignon,






, the first is the 'Lightbulb' !! and the second shows the parts used in it's construction, should read cobbled? ,and in the included link are more, yes more photos and a discription of them if you care to take a look. I'm open to suggestions if you think there is a better way forward with this project, including abandonment, thank you again for looking and taking an interest.

https://app.box.com/s/5d8txk25zq4zkv7z3dzi8te6ofodzzeh


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## Jumbo Ratty

mines_abeer

is this being done so you can single dose the mignon ?


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## 9719

Yes, I load 16gms into a 15gm vst working on the basis of if it's good enough for MCD then who am I to argue?!?!?


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## Jumbo Ratty

I get the same thing with beans not finding their way to the burrs as you have in your photos.

But for me I just agitate the grinder and they find their way. But only ever have to do this at the end of a kilo as I keep the hopper topped up and stick with the same beans until the kilo is used.

But I can see the advantage of what you are making if you want to swap beans a lot or simply dont want to keep them in the hopper.


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## 9719

I like to weight the beans in a single dose and weight the output before dosing the basket. Hence beans are stored in a separate jar and I only take what I need for each dose.


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## jimbojohn55

good pictures and now I get it - your after a modified carbon spinner that points down as a hopper - with a lid and turned base to fit in the mouth of a eureka - something like this?

edit -might look better with an aluminium spinner to match the eureka









-


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## 9719

You've hit the perverbial nail, know of anything in stainless? by any chance or is that one step to far


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## jimbojohn55

try this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUNHILL-BLACK-COCKTAIL-SHAKER-BNIB-Off-60-/262613690690?hash=item3d24fee942:g:Oj0AAOSwi0RX0C1k


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## 9719

On the head again, if I bought this how would you like to proceed from here on in?


----------



## jimbojohn55

hi - will send you a PM


----------



## urbanbumpkin

Thanks to Jimbojohn55 I've tried out the shrink wrap on the lower star. I've left a couple with a slightly longer tube to see if it helps the cleans weep or hinders.

I've only had a quick try but so far so good.


----------



## jimbojohn55

looks good - hope it works ok - one observation why do Mazzers have two domed head bolts/ screws at the bottom of their dosers when they could have so easily used these -


----------



## Dylan

mines_abeer said:


> I like to weight the beans in a single dose and weight the output before dosing the basket. Hence beans are stored in a separate jar and I only take what I need for each dose.


There is rather a convincing school of thought against single dosing like this, experiments on the forum have shown that a lack of any weight guiding the beans into the burrs cause a significant variance in the grind.


----------



## jimbojohn55

Dylan said:


> There is rather a convincing school of thought against single dosing like this, experiments on the forum have shown that a lack of any weight guiding the beans into the burrs cause a significant variance in the grind.


I think your right, the best solution for me is putting say 50g in at a time then topping up as you go, ive always thought there should be some kind of downwards blower preasure on the beans to push them to the burrs and push the coffee grinds through? - hmm dyson airburr grinder!


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## 9719

Ok you guys, I get it, these are on the way......http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pcs-Calibration-Weight-Set-10g-20g-50g-100g-200g-500g-Total-Weight-1000g-BY-/331960993590?hash=item4d4a6ac736%3Ag%3A%7E3IAAOSwIgNXvAzN&_trkparms=pageci%253Ab006c133-7a4a-11e6-9786-74dbd180a03a%257Cparentrq%253A278ac3bf1570a2a405c8e524fffe53e1%257Ciid%253A16

The description reads all the weights you will ever need, suggestions for what to do with the other 7? dare I ask!!!


----------



## Tewdric

jimbojohn55 said:


> I think your right, the best solution for me is putting say 50g in at a time then topping up as you go, ive always thought there should be some kind of downwards blower preasure on the beans to push them to the burrs and push the coffee grinds through? - hmm dyson airburr grinder!


A cooker hood extractor fan concealed in a kitchen cupboard perhaps, linked by flexihose to the top a modified hopper?


----------



## Dylan

jimbojohn55 said:


> I think your right, the best solution for me is putting say 50g in at a time then topping up as you go, ive always thought there should be some kind of downwards blower preasure on the beans to push them to the burrs and push the coffee grinds through? - hmm dyson airburr grinder!


I have experimented with fans in coffee grinders. They just cause the coffee to go everywhere and increase static.

The best solution was dreamt up by Dave (CC) I believe which it fairly widely used on the forum, and thats a plastic or broscillite glass tube in place of the hopper and then a steel/aluminium rod to place on top of the beans.


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## aaroncosbey

such a satisfying restore / rebuild


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## jimbojohn55

While waiting for a carbon fibre egg from the US (as you do) I spotted an SS one in Morrisons -

Cant quite believe after looking at Dung Hill bullet flasks and endless pages of RC plane bits in order to find a 63mm carbon fibre propeller nose cone to put in the doser I come across this SS egg timer in Morrisons !!! - expletive expletive expletive for only £2 as well and 62mm dia.

I'm still waiting for the snail mail from the USA to deliver the carbon one but this is on standby now - and if your thinking of doing the mod then pop down morrisons - also Moorhouses Pendle Witch is on offer at £1.25p


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## timmyjj21

Nice one! Adapting it to fit a Mazzer....? Keep us posted!


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## jimbojohn55

you in Oz yet? - and yes - will adapt for the mazzer then pass it on to a someone on the forum - once the shiny carbon one surfaces


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## timmyjj21

Yep, I'm in Oz, but the coffee gear doesn't arrive for another 3 weeks or so and I'm living vicariously through the forum!


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## jimbojohn55

timmyjj21 said:


> Yep, I'm in Oz, but the coffee gear doesn't arrive for another 3 weeks or so and I'm living vicariously through the forum!


and here I am sipping some fantastic Costa Rican coffee - you should go to starbucks for the next three weeks so you will appreciate it more when your gear turns up - just close you eyes so you don't witness their attempts at tamping - shudder.


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## hotmetal

By all accounts you should be spoilt for choice down under Timmy. Unless you're in the outback I suppose.


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## timmyjj21

I'm managing... Melbourne has been great. Im just in Canberra for a few days and one of my favourites from years ago has gone downhill


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## Missy

Hows the shrink-wrap holding up @urbanbumpkin @jimbojohn55 ? Does it work? Seems such an elegant solution!

If it's working would either of you like to sell me enough to do it with?


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## jimbojohn55

Missy said:


> Hows the shrink-wrap holding up @urbanbumpkin @jimbojohn55 ? Does it work? Seems such an elegant solution!
> 
> If it's working would either of you like to sell me enough to do it with?


I haven't got the mazzer in full time use yet, but it seems to do the business when tested - @urbanbumpkin is probably better in the know - if you would like some send me a PM and I will pop some in the post -its easy to fit, and will send some spare to try out with - (ive got a lot of it so its freeeeee!


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## Jacko112

Without hijacking the thread has anyone seen this on eBay: 302087532178

Looks like a good project for someone


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## jimbojohn55

Jacko112 said:


> Without hijacking the thread has anyone seen this on eBay: 302087532178
> 
> Looks like a good project for someone


I did - and would love to do it up, but local pick up only - even worked the train fare out - 4 changes and £120 Doh


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## Jacko112

I'm sure the forum express could help out?


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## urbanbumpkin

jimbojohn55 said:


> I haven't got the mazzer in full time use yet, but it seems to do the business when tested - @urbanbumpkin is probably better in the know - if you would like some send me a PM and I will pop some in the post -its easy to fit, and will send some spare to try out with - (ive got a lot of it so its freeeeee!


It's only been a couple of weeks but so far so good.

The lower star is tricky to access if you've not do it before.


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## Missy

urbanbumpkin said:


> The lower star is tricky to access if you've not do it before.


Been there, done that got the "oh heck where on earth does that spring go" T-shirt.


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## urbanbumpkin

Missy said:


> Been there, done that got the "oh heck where on earth does that spring go" T-shirt.


Lol. cool, more adventures with the golden cog for you then


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## jimbojohn55

Carbon spinner has arrived, just as I was beginning to think some pikey Trump supporter in the US had made off with my $15 the carbon fibre spinner fly's through the letter box.

see pics below - for the moment I've just dropped it onto the lower star ( the hole is the perfect size for the central threaded spindle), the carbon spinner does have a couple of recessed bolt holes either side to hold the base on, but we can sort that out.







Is that a rocket in your mazzer or ...


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## jimbojohn55




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## Macca

jimbojohn55 said:


> View attachment 22815
> View attachment 22816
> View attachment 22817
> View attachment 22819


Oh that little, wooden block, porta filter holder tucked away there until the least pic. You sexy minx you!

Jimbo, how you tease us.


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## jimbojohn55

"Oh that little, wooden block, porta filter holder tucked away there until the least pic. You sexy minx you"

lol - It just needed the corners rounding off a bit to match the mazzers casting curves !

at least its in use now and dialled in finally.


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## jimbojohn55

some video of the clean sweep shrink wrap mod and carbon nose cone in action, that's it I promise, ,,,,,,, well apart from a possible further mod.... is there a name for continuous modding disability - pratting about? - Wellerism? parker disease? mazzer madness?


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## grumpydaddy

Umm..... is there room under that cone to motorise the doser ??? hehehe


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## coffeechap

That cone looks a bit sticky


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## jimbojohn55

grumpydaddy said:


> Umm..... is there room under that cone to motorise the doser ??? hehehe


ive tried training the dog to operate it so it can be classed as on demand, but shes not keen


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## jimbojohn55

coffeechap said:


> That cone looks a bit sticky


it is a little - I think the carbon fibre has a coat of varnish - I was hoping that it helped disperse the static, early days - now I need a mazzer antistatic wire screen.


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## Tewdric

It might be a mould release agent. You could try and give it a surface clean with a citrus degreaser or toothpaste.


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## RichD1

Just bought a SJ and started to strip it down for a deep clean.

Would like to incorporate some of the doserless mods. Just waiting for some Milliput to arrive to mod the output chute, but can you tell me how the cone modification fit?

Just going up to Morrisons to buy the stainless egg timer, but how does it fit? Does it just sit on the bottom vane or does the existing centre screw hold the cone on by drilling through? Or is the cone modified so that it sits down over the bottom vanes?

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

RichD1 said:


> Just bought a SJ and started to strip it down for a deep clean.
> 
> Would like to incorporate some of the doserless mods. Just waiting for some Milliput to arrive to mod the output chute, but can you tell me how the cone modification fit?
> 
> Just going up to Morrisons to buy the stainless egg timer, but how does it fit? Does it just sit on the bottom vane or does the existing centre screw hold the cone on by drilling through? Or is the cone modified so that it sits down over the bottom vanes?
> 
> Richard


Hi Richard

The Morrisons ss egg just pulls apart - you will then either drill through the top and secure with a longer bolt or as it has a plastic liner with a central core you might just be able to drill up from underneath enough space to accommodate the central bolt then just let it sit on top. I suppose my point is that it can just rest in place as it wont fly off.

PS post up some pictures always good to see others refurbs

cheers Jim


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## RichD1

@jimbojohn55

So it can just sit over the central screw fixing then. Do you file some cut outs in the cone to allow it to sit down over the bottom set of vanes preventing grounds getting around the centre boss?

I've just got my SJ stripped down and it's in remarkably good condition.

Tried to undo the centre nut on the bottom of the doser and it punched the long nose pliers through the chute casting. So this method isn't foolproof either. Think I may have to leave this as it is and live with the small amount of grounds that can get under the lower vanes, unless anyone has a foolproof method to get the bolt off.

Some pics of my SJ so far.

See pics 3 & 4 showing the crack to the casting caused by the longnose pliers. Yes before you ask, I had removed the taper pin!!!!

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

Wow tough break - best probably tap the bent metal back in place with a punch or drill bit (the perfect crime)

- I must confess I broke my lower star getting it off - I eventually discovered the best way to get it off is to use an impact driver with the right size socket on the bolt, they work like a hammer drill but instead of back and forward it vibrates round and round - you can get an impact driver quite cheap at screwfix - its worth adding to your toolkit - brilliant for putting in screws or drilling holes with flat bits.

You could fit a Shnoz to cover it up - I can send you one of my non stick ones just PM me an address - free to all mazzer refurbers! http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?33103-Mazzer-Super-Jolly-quot-Paint-it-black-quot-refurb/page7

My spinner just sits on the centre nut - its got openings at the bottom but doesn't seem to hold any coffee, its not really an issue to worry about.

Cheers for the pictures - that looks pretty new! - you can tell the year of manufacture from the 2 digits on the rating label.


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## RichD1

It's a 2012 model and I think the guy I bought it from was the only previous owner.

Didn't think about trying an impact gun. I've got a large Clarkes impact gun which does automotive stuff and I've got a Dewalt impact driver which will take 1/4 and 3/8 sockets.

PM sent.

Richard


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## RichD1

Not sure I will try the nut again!!

If I don't then I assume my only options are to add the tape/plastic/card to the vanes by trapping them with the middle vane section?

Richard


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## Kyle T

Just discovered this thread. Makes me want to pick up an old super jolly and give it a go myself. I dont normally find them a very attractive grinder but yours is superb!


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## Dylan

Rich- It doesn't look like you have taken out the pin that prevents the bottom star assembly being taken apart?

Edit: doh I see you say you removed it, so ignore me. Looks like it was still in in one of your photos, did you put it back?


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## RichD1

Hi Dylan,

Yeah, I put it back in then took pics.

Has anyone used the Morrisons egg timer top yet?

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

Fitting the morrisons egg timer top - as I've suggested its use I thought I better have a go myself

step 1 - drill a pilot hole from underneath - it will keep the final hole central

step 2 - drill from above carefully or it might slip and drill your hand - alternatively drill again from underneath after breaking off the plastic vanes with a pair of pliers

step 3 - secure with a nut from the top


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## jimbojohn55

Update - having tried it twice now - it works fine - the spinner version is slightly better as it stops any coffee flying past it to the exit Shute, but that could be fixed by adding a flap.


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## RichD1

Hi @jimbojohn55

Got my Morrisons egg timer, started to drill out from the inside as you suggested. Unfortunately the hole started to wander off centre as I gradually enlarged it out to suit the shaft in the bottom vane.

Got the Dremel out and started to re-centre the hole and get it large enough to fit over the shaft only to realise that the egg timer dome is higher than the shaft. Could have drilled it out to just over M5 and then the screw that goes into the top of the shaft would have held it perfectly.

Anyway, it now fits, I've used an M5 c'sk socket head and it centralises the dome just fine.

Still trying to figure out what to do with the various vane sections! Leave just the bottom one but I wouldn't get the 'sweep clean' solution, or re-fit the top sections which would then hold the plastic or sticky tape solution that others have used.

If I could find a way to hold the brass gear to enable me to get the bolt out I would use the heatshrink.

I'll keep at it, something might come to mind.

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

Hi Rich - I don't think holding the brass gear will help as it is only held by the pin - its not threaded to the best of my memory, I'm still happy to remove it for you or "treat" yourself to an impact driver


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## RichD1

Ahhh, I can see, it's the aluminium that is threaded and not the brass gear.

I've got a large Clarkes electric impact gun that we use for the car wheel nuts.

How would you propose holding the doser?

Richard


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## RichD1

jimbojohn55 said:


> Update - having tried it twice now - it works fine - the spinner version is slightly better as it stops any coffee flying past it to the exit Shute, but that could be fixed by adding a flap.


Hi Jim,

What exactly do you mean when you say; "flying past it to the exit shute" Isn't that what we're trying to achieve or am I missing something!

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

Hi Rich the impact gun maybe a bit too powerful - they are 450 Nm - the impact driver I used was a Bosch driver with variable speed and BPM its got a max of 160 Nm but you can adjust down to about 100 Nm - so you can actually hold the lower star while it rattles away at the nut on the other side to free it up.









Re the coffee flying out - as the mazzer grinds it throws the coffee out of the grinding chamber- some of this without a flap to direct it can land at the front of the doser and come out the chute - its ok if you have your portafilter in place to catch it. Some prefer to direct it down with the use of a flap so that they don't have to have the portafilter held in place while operating the grinder - personally I put the portafilter in place as as soon as you turn on any mazzer the vibration often makes a light dusting of coffee fall out.

Because the spinner version is taller it deflects most of the coffee - ive still got the morrisons one in place and to be honest I would be quite happy with it ( could have saved myself a bit on the carbon spinner) -I only discovered the morrisons one a month after fitting the other.

heres one someone made from card - a metal one would be better that can be lifted to aid cleaning.


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## RichD1

I've got a Dewalt impact driver and that is rated at 107nm.

So how would I hold the aluminium star section without it breaking?

Richard


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## jimbojohn55

By hand I'm afraid - but you might want to use a pair of thick leather gauntlets - ive done it myself, by hand but be very careful, - alternatively - from the bottom instead of using some round nose pliers to wedge the brass cog try a few different size bolts to fit the gap, hopefully pressing on a different bit to the rupture - possibly in pressing against the second pillar . The thread on the bolts give better grip than the round nose pliers but will require a little light filing of the cog after.


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## Kyle T

@jimbojohn55 where did you get the hopper from? and did you paint it or customise it yourself?


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## jimbojohn55

Kyle T said:


> @jimbojohn55 where did you get the hopper from? and did you paint it or customise it yourself?


I did paint and customise it myself this whole thread was started by me with the process involved, start at page 1 or here for the painting bit http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?33103-Mazzer-Super-Jolly-quot-Paint-it-black-quot-refurb/page2

Hi @Kyle T - the hopper is the rubber photo lens hood - you need a 58mm one like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phot-R-58mm-Universal-Collapsible-Rubber-Multi-Lens-Hood-for-Wide-Angle-Lenses-/271395562751?hash=item3f306fa4ff:g:F2EAAOSw5cNYJf6H

The benefit of the lens hood is that with a lid on you can use it as a sort of bellows if you want to at the end of the grind to give the grinding chamber a puff and push the last of the coffee grounds through it- this works particularly well when your say short by 0.5g of your ideal grind weight, the puff gives you the extra 0.5g.

I made the lid on mine to fit on my lathe - I was thinking of buying some hoods and making lids for them to fit to sell on, others use bits of old Tupperware or anything that comes to hand, the rubber hood with a descent lid on it makes a huge difference to the noise from the grinder - I don't wake up the household anymore!

PS - when you get your hood pull the metal ring out and reverse it for a better fit- they will wedge in just in the mazzer neck, or file or sand it down a little for a really good fit.

Cheers Jim


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## Kyle T

@jimbojohn55 sorry I meant did you paint the lens hood yourself, I've gone through the whole thread and knew that you did all of the refurb yourself it just seemed like you never mentioned the lens hood (unless I missed something) I would definitely be interested in a lid if you ever start selling them!

So how much does your lens hood hold? Excuse my ignorance and maybe this is for another thread but the SJ I have just agreed to buy is setup for single dosing. But on an earlier post in this thread somebody suggested that's not a good idea. So if you put more than you required dose of beans into the hopper/hood how do you know how long the machine needs to run for to get the output you require? Do you have to manual time every grind or do you have to weigh the portfilter?

Again excuse my ignorance, before seeing this thread I had never even considered an SJ as my grinder and therefore never read up about them at all.


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## Dylan

Kyle T said:


> @jimbojohn55 sorry I meant did you paint the lens hood yourself, I've gone through the whole thread and knew that you did all of the refurb yourself it just seemed like you never mentioned the lens hood (unless I missed something) I would definitely be interested in a lid if you ever start selling them!
> 
> So how much does your lens hood hold? Excuse my ignorance and maybe this is for another thread but the SJ I have just agreed to buy is setup for single dosing. But on an earlier post in this thread somebody suggested that's not a good idea. So if you put more than you required dose of beans into the hopper/hood how do you know how long the machine needs to run for to get the output you require? Do you have to manual time every grind or do you have to weigh the portfilter?
> 
> Again excuse my ignorance, before seeing this thread I had never even considered an SJ as my grinder and therefore never read up about them at all.


Single dosing has basically been proven to be a bad idea. The grind changes drastically from the start of the grind to the end, and makes things very inconsistent, whereas adding weight on a small amount of beans gives a good consistent grind.

Without something like and external Auber timer (or internal if you want to mod) you just have to eyeball the grind time.


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## jimbojohn55

Hi @Kyle T

The lens hood is black rubber - so it goes well with a black mazzer - it has a aluminium ring in its base that fits in the neck of the mazzer.

As Dylan points out - single dosing is not a good idea as the beans jump about or popcorn in the hopper unless you put enough in and keep it topped up - you can get around 100g in it which works fine.

after thinking about it this am ive ordered 5 lens hoods and will turn some lids for them and offer them on the forum - not sure of price yet but probably around £15 posted.

when I run my mazzer I count up to 10 - then lever the grounds into the portafilter, I then check the weight of the coffee in the portafilter on the scales - this will usually provide around 13-15g - I then grind a bit more or use a teaspoon to pop a bit back in the hopper.

hope this makes sence - cheers Jim


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## RichD1

Hi @jimbojohn55

I've already got the lens hood but I would like a cover and one for the doser please? Don't know what woods you've got but I made our kitchen in European Oak so that would be a good match.

Let me know.

Richard


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## Kyle T

jimbojohn55 said:


> Hi @Kyle T
> 
> The lens hood is black rubber - so it goes well with a black mazzer - it has a aluminium ring in its base that fits in the neck of the mazzer.
> 
> As Dylan points out - single dosing is not a good idea as the beans jump about or popcorn in the hopper unless you put enough in and keep it topped up - you can get around 100g in it which works fine.
> 
> after thinking about it this am ive ordered 5 lens hoods and will turn some lids for them and offer them on the forum - not sure of price yet but probably around £15 posted.
> 
> when I run my mazzer I count up to 10 - then lever the grounds into the portafilter, I then check the weight of the coffee in the portafilter on the scales - this will usually provide around 13-15g - I then grind a bit more or use a teaspoon to pop a bit back in the hopper.
> 
> hope this makes sence - cheers Jim


Ahhhh ok, might need to get myself some shiney new scales capable of weighing a portafilter then







Give me a shout when you have the lens hoods as i would defo have one. Are you planning on only doing wood lids? or can you do a black lid to make it all black?


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## jimbojohn55

Hi @Kyle T

I can do them black as well - in satin - will let you know when done - no obligation.

re scales - I got these https://www.coffeehit.co.uk/coffee-gear-bench-scale-2kg-0-1g.html?gclid=CLDn7OK9o9ACFUI6GwodeusNaQ#fo_c=1166&fo_k=dee3c472266ae469b696f84579d58751&fo_s=gplauk

there not Lunar pearls but work fine enough and you can put the whole portafilter on them. (came with a free bag of coffee as well)


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## Dylan

Many people (including myself) also use a perspex/broscillite tube in the throat of their mazzer and a aluminium or steel rod for a weight, gives you a few more beans to play with which is useful especially if you are making more than one drink.

The lens hood can still be stretched over the tube to act as a puffer.


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## jimbojohn55

Dylan said:


> Many people (including myself) also use a perspex/broscillite tube in the throat of their mazzer and a aluminium or steel rod for a weight, gives you a few more beans to play with which is useful especially if you are making more than one drink.
> 
> The lens hood can still be stretched over the tube to act as a puffer.


any pics - I'm curious?


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## Dylan

Sure, here we go:


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## jimbojohn55

Cheers @Dylan

loving it - except the adjustment lever ;-)

ever thought about an oak weight ontop of the beans ?

Whats the tube diameter 60mm ?


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## Dylan

I'm sure oak would do the job, might be a tad light but I would't know!

58OD and 51ID if I remember rightly.

It was a bit loose however so had an elastic band with some gaffa style tape over it to provide a snug fit. Mine is borosilicate rather than plastic, but I reckon plastic is probably a better bet.


----------



## jimbojohn55

RichD1 said:


> Hi @jimbojohn55
> 
> I've already got the lens hood but I would like a cover and one for the doser please? Don't know what woods you've got but I made our kitchen in European Oak so that would be a good match.
> 
> Let me know.
> 
> Richard


Hi @Rich D1

it was oak that I used - will keep you posted as I should have some time next week, will PM re details tomorrow

cheers Jim


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## Missy

@jthepilot read this thread! There's a sale post around too.


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## jimbojohn55

Mazzer doser bolt removal - I am part of the way through another SJ refurb but wanted to detail the doser bolt removal issue with some better pics and the tecneque that's worked for me now without problem on 2 occasions.

Tools required M5 Bolt, M13 socket, preferably an impact driver as well but I imagine a standard socket driver will do.

all over the tinterweb you will find reference to 1 tap out the pin ( a hammer and a nail will do this) then wedge the brass cog with the nose of a pair of tapered pliers before using a 13mm socket to remove the bolt after a lot of swearing. - This method has several issues - only certain pliers with the right taper will wedge and hold the cog - quite often leading to fractures in the exit Shute casting.

My preferred method - now used twice without issue - (yeah yeah only twice - but keep reading)

to wedge the cog I use an M5 bolt - the thread acts to grip both the cog and the rear metal of the shute - an M5 is the optimum size to wedge where the casting is at its thickest . I then use an M13 socket on an impact driver - and within a couple of seconds Bing - thebolts undone. - here are some close up pics

Note pic 4 shows the marks where the thread grips the shute casting exactly where its at its thickest


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## TheWilkieWay

Thanks a lot for this thread, there is lots of very useful information here. Forgive me if this has already been answered, I tried doing a search. But have you replaced the clear acrylic on the doser and if so, where did you get it from?


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## jimbojohn55

Hi @TheWilkieWay I think I just shopped around for the cheapest £8 plus postage here - http://www.coffeeomega.co.uk/product/mazzer-doser-lens-original/

cheers Jim


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## TheWilkieWay

Thanks! It turns out I was using the wrong search terms. I am trying to aquire a second hand super jolly as my first grinder (I am stuck with a blade grinder which is sat unused) and going by the condition of most I see, I won't be able to stop myself giving it a bit of tlc!


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## jimbojohn55

Just a quick addendum to this thread as im refurbing another SJ for a family member - the removal of the lower burr carrier on mazzers and other grinders has always been a pain so I thought about time I nocked something up from scrap -

For info if anyone wants to make one - scribe around an old burr on some alu plate then drill and tap three M4 holes with an M10 in the centre

Remove the centre bolt an the burr carrier and the lower burr then -

Screw the disc onto the top of the burr with 3 m4 bolts (longer than the ones that hold the burr in place - them tighten down the M10 and up it comes without any drama - The m10 bolt presses on the centre shaft without damage to the thread or carrier


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## jj-x-ray

Just like a gear puller....love it


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## jimbojohn55

part of me thought mehh aluminium will be too soft and it will strip the threads but it worked like a charm &#8230;. till next time anyway


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