# Sage DB, water inside machine, split yellow wire, overheating boiler



## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Hello all!

Quick backstory - bought a used Sage DB about 15 months ago, it had just had a service from Coffee Classics (new pump, new solenoid, new probe, orange & blue o'rings replacement). All was working great.

Recently, I'd felt the top of machine was hotter than usual, but nothing major. 

Then this morning turned it on, the boiler temp got to 93, stayed there, but flashing. The top of the machine was incredibly hot (could put my hand there for 2 seconds, but then had to remove or would get burnt). Turned the machine off immediately. Turned it back on to check, temp showed 97, then 99, then straight to 120. pressed "manual button", nothing happened, turned off machine. 

It made a hissing noise for a few mins, then when stopped, turned it on again. Temp started at 91, then continued to rise. Turned off when it hit 98 (manual button not working). Waited 30 mins, turned it on. Temp at 81, climbed to 93, then stayed there. Steam wand working fine, manual button working fine. Turned off.

2 hours later and I've taken the top off and it's a mess. Condensation everywhere (including the digital "screen"), water as well, pretty much all on the left side of it. And a yellow wire has split completely. Pics attached.

I know impossible to say without seeing it, but does anyone have a sense of how severe this is? Essentially trying to figure out whether it would even be cost effective to repair, assuming it's not damaged beyond repair. If it were simple things I would be happy to give it a bash, but suspect this isn't and I have both ability and time constraints!

Any advice would be massively appreciated!


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## Jonathon White (Dec 7, 2021)

Well for a start the yellow wire is an earth wire and looks as if something or someone has cut that. Also is it’s so wet I’m there then I’m thinking a seal on something had gone. This work should have been sorted or looked at with the service. So my first thing would be to have a chat with the people that did the service and see where you stand. The earth being like that is dangerous so I wouldn’t turn it on again myself. Others may give more advice but this is what I would do.


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

First and foremost re-join that wire...as it's welded on at both ends it won't be an easy job to replace so use a choc-bloc to re-join...it's an EARTH wire and you need it for safety and so that you (or someone else) doesn't get an electric shock.

Secondly what is the thing i've circled...it looks like i crack/split to me, but it could also just be rusty crap...i can't tell, hence my curiosity.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Thanks Jonathon, and thanks Rincewind! Much appreciated. So:

Yellow earth wire - will re-join. Just strip both sides of the cable a touch and plug into a choc-box. Do I need a particular IP-rated choc box, or anything goes?

Rusty bit - is, I think, just rust. As it happens, before I saw these replies I started it up with the top off. And one of the connectors in the steam boiler (red circled) was spouting water (which probably explains the rust just where you spotted it). So I guess this is likely a gasket/o-ring I need to replace? At this point, 15 months after service, is it worthwhile to just replace all of them while I'm at it?

Last photo - not sure how well you can see it, but spotted this right at the bottom left of the inside (where the top tube from the solenoid valve connects into. Any idea what it is and where it might come from?!

Thanks again for the assistance.


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

As long as you don't have to struggle to push it into the cho-bloc then you should be ok...don't use a pokey little one, bigger is better, but not massive, you want it to go around the cable comfortably, not waggle around.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Thanks Rincewind. Will something like the attached work ok do you think? It was previously used as an inline junction box for a table lamp. It's about 5cm long if that's relevant.

I've also ordered a bunch of o-rings so will replace them when they arrive later this week.


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

Yeah providing the wire fits in easily (not forced) and doesn't waggle too much then it will be fine.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Brilliant, thanks! Will update (for anyone else that might be interested) once I've replaced the O-rings to see whether the issue has been resolved.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

So apart from looking ridiculous, how would this be from a functional & safety perspective?!


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

As they say in Yorkshire "that'll do" (other ISP providers are available)


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Haha, thanks.  Appreciate all the help and ridiculously fast responses. Very kind of you.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Hello again all. So I ordered a bunch of o-rings - BS007 size for the small, and BS010 for the larger. I ordered two types from different sellers (1 set in 'Viton', 1 set in silicone). The sizes look fine but I'm finding it IMPOSSIBLE to push/compress the probe down enough to allow the little metal clip to slide back in. These o-rings do indeed look a fraction thicker than the one i took off, but that one was also pretty worn/cracked, so not a huge surprise I guess.

Has anyone else experienced this / have a suggestion how I might resolve? If relevant, link below to one of the sets of o-rings that I purchased, recommended in other posts on this and another forum. 

Thanks!






RS PRO Silicone O-Ring, 6.07mm Bore, 3/8in Outer Diameter | RS







uk.rs-online.com


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## Sidnancy (8 mo ago)

MasterMark said:


> Hello again all. So I ordered a bunch of o-rings - BS007 size for the small, and BS010 for the larger. I ordered two types from different sellers (1 set in 'Viton', 1 set in silicone). The sizes look fine but I'm finding it IMPOSSIBLE to push/compress the probe down enough to allow the little metal clip to slide back in. These o-rings do indeed look a fraction thicker than the one i took off, but that one was also pretty worn/cracked, so not a huge surprise I guess.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this / have a suggestion how I might resolve? If relevant, link below to one of the sets of o-rings that I purchased, recommended in other posts on this and another forum.
> 
> ...


It wasnt a DB but my old Sage Express died a horrible death and I set about taking it apart (Spoiler - I wasnt successful)

Without doubt, however, the worst part was trying to get the tubes 'in' far enough to get the little retaining clips in place. It was a seriously large source of frustration for me. Honestly, it took me a good few evenings to get them all back together.
Reading elsewhere, apparently some food grade silicon grease is helpful in these situations. As the old addage goes 'Dont go in dry'!  

Without the silicon grease, I still found it to be a chore. Its a case of continually fiddling and applying pressure from above to try and get the clips on. I used 2 sets of needle nose pliars to get it to work in the end. Even that wasnt the ideal strategy as im a little ham fisted. One tip I saw somewhere was to put the o ring on the 'male' part as opposed to having it sit in the female part. I dont recall if that made it easier but I did get there eventually.

Keep fiddling. Keep at it - you'll get there eventually!


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Sidnancy said:


> It wasnt a DB but my old Sage Express died a horrible death and I set about taking it apart (Spoiler - I wasnt successful)
> 
> Without doubt, however, the worst part was trying to get the tubes 'in' far enough to get the little retaining clips in place. It was a seriously large source of frustration for me. Honestly, it took me a good few evenings to get them all back together.
> Reading elsewhere, apparently some food grade silicon grease is helpful in these situations. As the old addage goes 'Dont go in dry'!
> ...



Thanks Sidnancy! Sorry to hear your BE ultimately died a death. Sad times. I too was using two sets of pliers to no avail, and had cut my fingers from repeated attempts at pushing it down! Then straight after reading your message and had another attempt. I started with the o ring lower down the probe and it slotted right in. Which makes me deeply suspicious about what I screwed up this time....

The good news is that the probe is now no longer spewing out hot water. The top of the machine still runs hotter than it did when I first got it, but no longer burns my hands after 2 seconds. The bad news is that I guess I should replace all the other o-rings while I'm at it....


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## Rincewind (Aug 25, 2020)

MasterMark said:


> ...The good news is that the probe is now no longer spewing out hot water...


That sounds good, well done...so is your machine now working ?


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## Jonathon White (Dec 7, 2021)

Just an idea when I have fitted new seals. I put them in hot water for a few minutes beforehand. Just made them that little softer to compress.


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Jonathon White said:


> Just an idea when I have fitted new seals. I put them in hot water for a few minutes beforehand. Just made them that little softer to compress.


Good tip, will give it a go. Thanks!


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Rincewind said:


> That sounds good, well done...so is your machine now working ?


I've note made a coffee, but it "sounds" normal, the water out of the brewhead is ok, the steam is running fine.

BUT, having left it on for the last 30 mins or so, the top of the machine is still running very hot. Any idea what might be causing that?


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## MasterMark (Mar 11, 2021)

Just adding here to see if anyone has ideas about why the lid/cover might be getting so hot. I've changed all the o-rings across the steam and brew boilers and I can't see or hear any problems in terms of leaks. I unscrewed the solenoid valve just to have a look there. There were a few drops of water there, but certainly not enough to constitute a leak, so that is probably condensation that was there from the original leak before I changed the o-rings.

For what it's worth, the heat is coming from the right hand side. It feels a little hotter above the steam valve, but also above the steam boiler, so hard to tell where the majority of the heat is coming from. 

I've always tended to switch the machine off after making my coffee(s), but there's clearly something wrong and I'd love to get it sorted.

Any suggestions/ideas would be very well received!


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