# Renovation GAGGIA D90



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

hi all,

Not long ago i bought that beautiful machine to put her back to life. She was in poor condition leaks from everywhere, gauges seized rust to the frame and poor paintwork. I decided to give her a full makeover.

Frame is going to be sandblasted and powder painted in grey but outside panels gloss red for stunnig look.

My biggest concern is how to deal with that layers od limescale on the inside of the boiler?? Should I unscrew the lid (scared of gasket got ripped apart) or rather leave it as it is??

I have read about salt and vinegar solution but do not think that work well.

If you have any ideas please let me know.

Here is some pictures of the disassembling process:


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)




----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Definitely remove check descale fully and clean, i am sure you will require a new gasket anyway.

If you are going to the trouble of stripping and rebuilding you may as well do it correctly:good:

You will get all the support you need from the forum.


----------



## Grahamg (Oct 24, 2013)

I'm always rather in awe of these kinds of projects. Best of luck.


----------



## Fevmeister (Oct 21, 2013)

Grahamg said:


> I'm always rather in awe of these kinds of projects. Best of luck.


Me too but with added emasculation that I can't do the same!!!!


----------



## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> Definitely remove check descale fully and clean, i am sure you will require a new gasket anyway.
> 
> If you are going to the trouble of stripping and rebuilding you may as well do it correctly:good:
> 
> You will get all the support you need from the forum.


I Agree, there will be plenty of assistance FOC if you ask.

I am bit impulsive when it comes to rebuilds like this, did you consider replacing the copper pipework and brass couplings? Wondering if the cost would be so high given the standard of machine at the end of it all. Therapeutic in the process and gratifying at the end. Sshiny new panels on the outside for the onlookers, shiny new pipework inside for your own satisfaction.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Copper pipework and brass coupling stays. I am going to clean and polish every bit of them.

So boiler has to come apart! Later in this week I will try to unscrew that doogy bolts.

Regarding to the cost I will try to stay on the minimum price check as I can by replacing what has to be replace and the rest of all will be cleaned and polished!

  

And the frame itself ready for sandblasting!


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

On a full overhaul job, all the pipework & boiler components should be dismantled & descaled (plastic dustbin + phosphoric acid). All the solenoid valves,steam taps, flowmeters etc should be overhauled/renewed.

When rebuilding, new gaskets, seals & o-rings to be used; + lots of PTFE tape.

Service kits with all the above seals, etc are readily available for Gaggias.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Is anybody know how to open that up without breaking it?

Not sure if there is just a good fit or thread hidden underneath that limescale?


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

That's the heat exchanger tube: It comes off, but you don't want to damage the flange in loosening it: Just remove the solenoid valve & drop the rest into descaling acid. The tube should then drop off....


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Main boiler opened!!

Definitely new gasket needed

  

  

  

screengrab

  

Do you have any sugestions how much water to dilute 85% phosphoric acid to get fast working solution?

I think 10% acid to 90% water is about right for that limescale.


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Glad to see you opened it up:good:


----------



## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

Doesn't look too bad at all.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Here some of disassembling pictures. The fact I am doing this for the first time is more time consuming and not really know how to open things up. Always try to take as many pictures as I can so avoid big puzzle hassle when assemble.

     

     

  

free upload image


----------



## GCGlasgow (Jul 27, 2014)

Nice project, always like to see the process then reassembled and shiny!


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Boiler really doesn't look that bad, must have been used in a relatively soft water area.

Good luck with the project!

Here is a post from espressotechno on Phos dilution



> Phosphoric acid works faster & doesn't attack copper or brass. Try a janitorial supplies/cleaning company - ask for "phos" phosphoric acid in 5 litre bottle, not the foaming stuff.
> 
> Dilute to taste - 1+4 works well.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Hi Folks,

I am in the middle of cleaning process and because I was trying to keep the costs down using 10% vinegar, salt and some tesco's descalers I think I have had f&#8230;ked the heads up.

The homemade solution seems to be too strong for the chrome. Now can see bear brass underneath. Tried to polish all up but is too late now.

I am thinking about re-chroming the whole thing would like this machine to be very conspicuous in every aspect!

PHOS is on the way to finish the job properly.


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I had a group rechromed, easy enough to have done. Think I was charged the minimum of £50 (before VAT).


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Finally PHOS arrived so can clean all as it should!

Do you have any idea how to get rid of all the redness which appeared on the brass couplings?

     

upload image online


----------



## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Brasso, if you can be bothered.


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

You must use stainless steel bolts when refitting the boiler end-plate - these old ones look v. rusty.

The solenoid valves also look knackered: the ruby inserts may be well scratched - even with descaling & detanning, they will probably leak....

Phos works well @ 1+4 or 1+5 dilution.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

All main stainless steel bolts going to be replaced and no old o-ring left. Down to solenoid valves just wait and see what state they are, as far as I have noticed there was not much lime scale and dirt on them (mean inside). Tomorrow I will do final inspection once get them off the sonic cleaner.

Peace


----------



## TomBurtonArt (Jan 18, 2015)

Good luck with the project, mine took a long time to finish but I loved the (frustrating and joyful) process.

A lot of the pictures seem to have dissapeared which makes me sad.


----------



## Brewer in training (Feb 7, 2015)

bart said:


> Do you have any idea how to get rid of all the redness which appeared on the brass couplings?


Get a MAINS powered Dremel or similar (Maplin or Toolstation) and plenty of the little wire brush fittings(eBay) .... The battery powered ones aren't up to the job!

Personally I found the extended flexible shafted allows for closer work.....

And don't forget the goggles...........

Are you going to run it n a 30amp circuit or are you going to re configure it to run on a standard plug?

Good luck with the project and keep the photos coming......


----------



## Threeracers (Nov 13, 2015)

What an amazing project, look forward to following your progress

Mark


----------



## vansman (Jan 31, 2016)

What an undertaking! I just got my hands on a 1 group D90. Having been inside yourself is it possible to run the machine from a tank? Or does it rely on mains pressure?


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

All mains water machines with rotary pumps will run OK from an external bottle / tank. Just ensure that it is positioned alongside or above the machine.


----------



## vansman (Jan 31, 2016)

Ahhh, so the issue wasn't the tank. Something else is going on - the pump runs ok for autofilling the boiler, but it doesn't seem to turn on during a brew - only getting steam out!


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

hi folks, sorry it's been a while since my last post but i made huge progress in restoring the beast. So the whole frame arrived painted in silver and side panels in red. I have decided that red colour for the machine will be more appealing to any coffee shop. All the brass and metal pieces been renovated on my rotary polisher with brush wheel fitted on.

OK enough of the theory see some pictures.









  

image hosting over 5mb

  

windows 7 print screen

  

image upload with preview

  

how to take a screenshot on a pc


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

and some side panels!

  

adult photo hosting

  

picture uploader


----------



## GCGlasgow (Jul 27, 2014)

Looking good


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

I will upload better pictures tommorow due to night time now.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

i am not really sure, should I use a silikon or any sealant with the gasket in the main boiler?


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

... and some ready to use parts.


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

Does anyone know what sort of gasket or o-ring needs to go inbetween heat exchanger and the main head? when i took this apart i have noticed some kind of glue around the contact points. Do not realy know how to put this back together the drowing shows very unclear. I mean the number 110.

  

20mb image hosting


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

You need 2 gaskets per heat exchanger/head joint: One gasket between the hx flange (behind the dlange) & the boiler; one between the hx flange and the group head.

These gaskets are either fibre/card or teflon and should have come with any service kit purchased.....


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

I trust that, Gaggia being an Italian machine, the new red is "Ferrari Red" !


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

I have not bought service kit yet. The main boiler gasket I ordered separately cose rest of the o-rings i have in my o-ring box. Only struggle with that hx thing. If there are 2 gaskets with hx inbetween where the big squre gasket should be fitted ? In addition should I use a sealant or any glue with it?


----------



## rhrwilliams (Mar 23, 2016)

bart said:


> I have not bought service kit yet. The main boiler gasket I ordered separately cose rest of the o-rings i have in my o-ring box. Only struggle with that hx thing. If there are 2 gaskets with hx inbetween where the big squre gasket should be fitted ? In addition should I use a sealant or any glue with it?


This is quite a co-incidence. I am rebuilding a single group one (see thread in machine and grinders section) and I am stuck on the same bit you are ! I cant find a seal for the bit between the group head and HX. It was leaking badly before and this was because it didn't have any gasket in it.

I have a spare teflon gasket for the element that I think I can use between the heat exchanger and boiler, but its a little bit thick.

Hopefully Espresso Techno will tell us his secrets and let us know where to buy now from !

Good luck

Richard


----------



## rhrwilliams (Mar 23, 2016)

I did buy a service kit but it didn't have the bit I needed


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

All sorted new gasket made all fit perfectly. To make it I have used 1mm High Temperature Fibre Gasket Paper Sheet from amazon cost only about 5 quit and can last for more than enough.









Scrap the repair kits (cost fortune) one sheet of these, set of o-ring off ebay and one custom made flange gasket cost me less than 14 quid for the whole machine.

Have a look how it goes!

  http://postimage.org/

  

  

  http://postimage.org/


----------



## bart (Nov 1, 2015)

I think those gaskets are more than enough for that job! I was trying to figure it out how to use 2 rings instead of square plate and I can say that plate with 4 holes will hold everything in right place for assembling. I have done some research and there is no need for any glue or sealant as long as the surface is nice and flat.


----------



## rhrwilliams (Mar 23, 2016)

Looking good, mines painted now and I uploaded a pic .


----------

