# Rancilio Classe 6 upgrades/modifications?



## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

Hi,

6 years ago I restored my Rancilio Classe 6E (made around 2004 judging by date stamps on panels etc, I might be off a little). Recently it started having problems with the auto fill (pump running, solenoid engaging, but no refill happening), and I had to refill it manually every 20hrs or so. When it got worse I decided to tear it down, diagnose the problem and give it a full tune-up while I had it stripped down.

I found that Rancilio has replaced/upgraded some parts in the later year models, are any of those worth replacing?

Such as the group head orifice with a stainless steel mesh, seems to now be replaced by a gigleur(Part #: 10060612).

Since I the machine is dismantled and I have a small metal workshop, are there any recommended upgrades/modifications I should consider doing before assembling it again?

Thanks


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

There's very little you can update/modify on a Classe6: Later models had a temperature sensor fitted to replace the pressure switch, but that mod would involve a new(er) expensive PCB.

Probably best to fit new items such as: Anti-vac valve, safety valve, water level probe, pressure switch (if fitted), group solenoid valves, inlet solenoid valve, maybe pumphead, starter capacitor on pump. Always use new seals, o-rings & gaskets when re-assembling....


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

I do have this temperature sensor mounted in mine, is this the one you mean?

http://www.espressounderground.co.uk/RANCILIO_CLASSE_6_8_TEMPERATURE_PROBE_ORIGINAL_p/ra8076.htm

It seems the machine is in pretty good shape, so I might not replace as many parts as I did the first time I restored it. It has been switched on with very few exceptions for 6 years and the scale buildup seems to be mostly in the areas where temperature fluctuates a lot (injector pipes, just after the cold water valve etc).

I will replace all the gaskets with new ones, but a lot of the valves/plumbing I will probably just put in my mill and/or lathe and restore to like-new condition if I can. (Obviously testing that everything handles pressure without leaking before I put it back)

I am still curious as to why they decided on going with that gigleur, if anyone has any thoughts on that, please let me know.

Starter capacitor, I replaced that one the first time around, but bought extras last time, so I am fitting a new one for good measure. Which

brings me to another approach I've been considering. Since the electronics in the machine is ridiculously expensive, I have been playing with the idea of

insulating inside the machine. Not the tank or the hydraulics, but rather electronic components. And maybe fitting a fan to help lowering the temperatures. I want to leave the water circuit as unaffected as possible, it seems to be working well as is.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Yes - that's the electronic temp sensor. Only to be replaced when it goes wonky.

I assume that, as the machine is dismantled, all the pipework boiler etc have been descaled in an acid bath.


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

Yes, all the pipework and boiler has been descaled. Well almost all, I still have the hot water parts to dismantle and check for scale.

When all is clean, I was planning on checking for wear, what to replace and what I can reuse/restore.

This time round I am also going to resurface/reshape the pipe compression fittings since I had to tighten them pretty hard to stop the leaks the last time. To make servicing a little easier on the 3-way valves I'll probably drill/tap two additional holes and replace the bolts. 4 bolts instead of 2 should make it possible to tighten with less force and spread the load more evenly. Then again, there might be a reason they only put two bolts there originally. Hmm

(whenever the o-ring needs to be replaced, it is usually because it started leaking, which seems to create a build-up of scale, making the bolts hard to remove. So another kind of bolt, like a hex, not tightened as hard might make it easier is my thinking)


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

I took a closer look at the pump, it is now obvious it needs some attention. I was hoping it might be the starter capacitor causing it to make a noise, but no. After closer inspection, the outerbearing was completely filled with a thick paste, part rust and part "other". The shaft was discolored with rust (easily removed tho, and no apparent damage, it seems to have the correct diameter, at least to within a couple of hundreds of a millimeter) The graphite lining/vanes/"bearings" seems fine, and since it did build pressure properly before i started the tear down I am going to see if I can manage to find bearings and a seal to rebuild it. From what I've been able to find using my favourite search engine, others have tried and failed in finding bearings with an ID of 11mm and OD of 30. If I can't find the bearing/seal combination I need, it leaves me with two options, either turn down the shaft to a more standard size (10mm) on the lathe. OR order a rebuild kit (http://www.edcodistributing.com/pcpumps.php)


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

Forgot to mention, there was hardly any scale or buildup inside the pump at all, the rust and the crud (my guess) was mostly cause by a failing seal.


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

Hah! Found it, made a call to my local bearing vendor, a kind of company that lives and breathes bearings/seals/transmission parts, and usually have everything and it's grandmother in stock. They managed to hunt down a bearing with the same specs as the Procon pump one, but it was a special order. And sadly they didn't think they would be able to find me a seal that would be able to handle the pressure (they have seals that size that handles up to 10bar, giving close to no headroom)

Anyway, if anyone else is looking for the bearing for a Procon pump, the model number is: "6200-11-2RS" which I was told is a special version with the inner bearing race being 11mm instead of the standard 10mm edition of the same bearing.

(and here is a complimentary link to a random vendor for a spec page: https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-6200-11-2RS.php)

From my local supplier (www.rotera.se in Swedish) I was quoted €12 (+VAT)

Now I just need to find a seal that would handle the pressure, which I am guessing will be difficult.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

The Swedish prices for espresso machine parts must be very high, as in the UK it's more cost effective to fit a new pumphead, solenoid valve, etc.

Hex head (insert) bolts in s/steel for the group valves are much better. 4 bolts per valve is standard but some machines have just 2, which seem to work OK. Best grease the rubber o-rings and not overtighten the bolts.

Any extra heatshielding around the ECU is a good idea.

PS You may be able to source parts @ decent prices direct from these European distributors: GEV GRoup (https://www.gev-online.de) in Germany and LF Spare Parts (http://www.lfspareparts724.com) in Italy. Both ship to all countries by overnight courier.


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## Mr.Bean (Feb 9, 2017)

Thank you, for useful info (especially the links, one of which I don't think I've even stumbled upon earlier).

Indeed the prices in Sweden are high for most things (well maybe not pine trees and IKEA furniture), espresso machine parts too.

I tend to buy what I need from either the UK or Germany, or just make it myself if I think I can.

I am putting together an order from https://www.espressoxxl.de they seem to have most of what I need at a reasonable price.

Some things I will have to find other vendors for, like the cafelat group head gaskets (less of a pain to replace next time, I am hoping)

I do however enjoy to tinker with stuff, for me it is like meditation. I actually value the time spent fixing something, more than I value an easy repair. I do things like this as a hobby, but I am sure it would be utterly catastrophic as a business model.










If I just wanted the thing repaired quickly it would probably be a lot faster and much easier to just order parts and bolt them on. Most likely it would not be that much of a difference in cost either, but thats not what my goal is really.


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