# Pressure gauge



## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Hi,

I have bought a pressure gauge for my classic, have fitted it into the pipework to carry out the OPV mod, straightforwards, set mine about 9.8 static.

The issue I have is cutting the hole in the front. I have read a couple of links from people who have fitted gauges but only 1 said that they had to get the case milled. Now I know stainless is as hard as a woman of the nights heart and I don't want to try and use a hole cutter if it is unlikely to work and damage the case.

For those who have fitted a gauge what did you use please and how effective was it

Thanks

Andy


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## Liam_Smart (Jan 6, 2015)

Hi Andy,

Sorry I can't answer your question because it sounds like you're doing the same research as me. I am down to 2 options:

1. Buying one of these:






2. Buying a simple stainless steel drill bit and drilling chain holes and then filing it smooth.

First option would do a neater job I would presume.

Could you post a photo of where you connected your pressure gauge and also what gauge you are using. I'm undecided whether to attach it between pump and OPV or directly onto the steam valve.

Sorry I couldn't give you a definative answer!

Liam


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Will do Liam


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400839643448?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Used that gauge

Like another user I just went to a local hydraulic hose maker for the fittings and tapped into the pump outlet.

The only thing I have noticed is that I have to open the steam valve to vent the pressure from the gauge when I stop pumping, even after the solenoid valve has dumped it's pressure so not sure if this is normal, no hassle to do but found it weird.








I just have this like this so I could check and adjust the OPV and see how the gauge works. The needle is steady when brewing and is a nice neat style


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## Liam_Smart (Jan 6, 2015)

mremanxx said:


> The only thing I have noticed is that I have to open the steam valve to vent the pressure from the gauge when I stop pumping, even after the solenoid valve has dumped it's pressure so not sure if this is normal, no hassle to do but found it weird.


Nice! You're ahead of me. I'm still at the learning to make tasty espresso stage! I will get rounf to it though.

- How much did the wee t-connector cost you? It looks solid!

- So the pressure gause remains at 9-bar even when you have switched off your machine? This guys sits at 0 when switched off, but as the machine heats up, the pressure rises. He connects hsi to the steam valve though. I wonder if the pressure in this part of the machine will read slightly higher than between the OPV and pump? I'm still undecided where to fit the gauge. The steam valve route is more expensive as I will have to buy a different valve.

Thanks for posting the pics though!

Liam


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

To be honest I got the connectors for free as I deal with the hydraulics firm, shouldn't be more than a couple of quid I would think. Reading other posts about this mod it appears that it doesn't matter too much where you tap into the system, the only reason why I think is still shows some pressure after I have stopped brewing is I don't think the solenoid valve dumps all the pressure one you stop the brew switch.

What you could do and is what I was considering before I found a link on here for this is get a tee piece like mine but that is threaded then you could connect it into the steam wand part of the valve, a good hydraulic shop should have something like this. I chose this option as it much easier.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I think it depends on which steam valve you have. Some valves have a separate tapping off. There is no provision for take off on standard valve.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

You will always potentially have the gauge reading something other than zero when not pouring a shot. The solenoid valve stops the water flow from boiler to group head - but the boiler can still be at pressure (due to the pump pumping previously). The solenoid valve dumps the pressure from the puck to the vent pipe - it doesn't vent pressure from the boiler or pump.

As the boiler heats up it can increase the pressure in the system - and hence the gauge will show an increase in pressure, whether it is connected to the steam valve or the pump pipe or wherever.

I've found that after pulling a shot, if the gauge still shows pressure in the system then a quick flick of the brew switch on/off removes it.


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## Krax (Oct 26, 2014)

Hi, I fitted my gauge in the same box as MrShades shot timer.

See link http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?21171-Automatic-shot-timer-project.

Much easier than cutting stainless, I just threaded the capillary under the rear of the top cover.

Hope this helps


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

MrShades said:


> You will always potentially have the gauge reading something other than zero when not pouring a shot. The solenoid valve stops the water flow from boiler to group head - but the boiler can still be at pressure (due to the pump pumping previously). The solenoid valve dumps the pressure from the puck to the vent pipe - it doesn't vent pressure from the boiler or pump.
> 
> As the boiler heats up it can increase the pressure in the system - and hence the gauge will show an increase in pressure, whether it is connected to the steam valve or the pump pipe or wherever.
> 
> I've found that after pulling a shot, if the gauge still shows pressure in the system then a quick flick of the brew switch on/off removes it.


That's what I thought, I work with hydraulic systems so had some idea that the solenoid valve must be retaining pressure in the system, I just open the steam valve, it dumps the pressure in the system


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## whiteyj (Dec 28, 2014)

I've done the pressure gauge mount - wasn't too hard at all.

I used one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251689894242?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=550596200441&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Just take your time drilling it. You should really use cutting compound (I didn't, and it was fine, but will have blunted the cutting bit I expect.)


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Cheers, ordered a Starrett cutter so will find out in a few days how easy or not it is


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

There's a hole in my Classic, oh no there's not.

Absolute doddle for those thinking about doing this. Used a cobalt 5mm drill as pilot, like hot knife through butter, then Starrett 40mm hole cutter, took 5 mins going easy.

A tip from me would be go closer to the centre as I just avoided the left hand edge, was bloody lucky.


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## GCGlasgow (Jul 27, 2014)

mremanxx said:


> There's a hole in my Classic, oh no there's not.
> 
> Absolute doddle for those thinking about doing this. Used a cobalt 5mm drill as pilot, like hot knife through butter, then Starrett 40mm hole cutter, took 5 mins going easy.
> 
> ...


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Anything for a challenge, might do the PID mod next


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Will be doing the same to my Classic soon - gauge is in the post!

Quick question, is there enough clearance to mount the gauge in the centre of the front panel or will the boiler be in the way? All of the gauges i've seen have been mounted in the bottom left corner.


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Cannot be too far right, if your gauge is like mine and has the capillary tube soldered onto it it will hit the boiler. If you have one that you can screw and elbow onto then yes you could as you would just turn the elbow towards the left hand side of the case.


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Thanks for the advice - gauge is this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400820861888?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Same as the one I got, just a different style gauge so you can't go too far right.


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Awaiting delivery of a Cubika to pillage for it's steam valve. It has a self priming valve which I will be removing and hopefully attaching the gauge to the outlet so I can monitor actual steam/boiler pressure:


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## JoshMitton (Jan 25, 2015)

Liam_Smart said:


> Hi Andy,
> 
> Sorry I can't answer your question because it sounds like you're doing the same research as me. I am down to 2 options:
> 
> 1. Buying one of these:


i'd go with the first drill! Had experoence using them as an apprentice and it'll be a better job and less work. Just make sure you put something on the other side of the hole for the drill to go into whenthe hole goes through. Also remember to use a slow drill speed and do not apply a lot of pressure.


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## Liam_Smart (Jan 6, 2015)

Thanks Josh,

So option 1? That cone looking drill bit thing?

My old man has been round, took one look at it, and said it would be a "piece of piss". Think that translates to "I dont have a clue what he's trying to do but it's not my machine so I don't give a ..."









Liam


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

I connected my gauge up to the pipe between the pump & the boiler with a push-fit T piece.

One thing - the gauge seems pretty erratic whilst making a shot - are there any tips to make these fluctuations a bit smoother? I haven't mounted my gauge yet so the water pipe coming off the T piece is about a metre long - although i'd have thought this would make the gauge a bit smoother anyway.

Thoughts?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

"water pipe"... is that a capillary tube or is it really a 1m length of 6mm teflon pipe?

My gauge, mounted in the same way, with a nice long capillary tube (all coiled up) that mounts directly to the T-piece is absolutely rock solid.


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

I have the Vibiemme gauge with a capillary tube & 1/8" BSP conenction attached as one piece. This is then fitted to a the T piece via the metre of teflon tubing with the push-fit 1/8 BSP adaptor - the same way as in page 1 of this thread.


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

I have an old cubika lying around that I could probably swipe the valve from if anyone wants it?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

I've received a Cubika via eBay and it's the wrong valve to use as it's at an angle whereas the Coffee/Coffee Deluxe is straight!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

MartinB said:


> I have the Vibiemme gauge with a capillary tube & 1/8" BSP conenction attached as one piece. This is then fitted to a the T piece via the metre of teflon tubing with the push-fit 1/8 BSP adaptor - the same way as in page 1 of this thread.


Hmmm.... the only apparent material difference between what you have and what I have is the 1m long piece of teflon pipe (and probably a different gauge and different pump). Can you fit the 1/8" BSP directly to the T piece (or as close as possible, if you have to use a 1" length piece of pipe) and see what difference (if any) it makes?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

MrShades said:


> Hmmm.... the only apparent material difference between what you have and what I have is the 1m long piece of teflon pipe (and probably a different gauge and different pump). Can you fit the 1/8" BSP directly to the T piece (or as close as possible, if you have to use a 1" length piece of pipe) and see what difference (if any) it makes?


The T piece doesn't have a BSP connector on annoyingly. Will shorten the tubing and have a try later!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

I think that's how majnu fitted his - with a v short piece of pipe. I bought the correct T-piece with a 1/8 BSP on the T and it's rock solid like that.

Interested to hear how you get on.


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Fitted mine today with the help of my brother... Slowly running out of beans so I'll test it out tomorrow morning!


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Where is the DIY PID Martin? Can't see it in the picture above, thinking about doing this, what kit did you use?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Need to refit it as I burnt the controller out in a water-related accident! I'll just buy a new kit for about £13!


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

MartinB said:


> Need to refit it as I burnt the controller out in a water-related accident! I'll just buy a new kit for about £13!


Did it make much difference? Can you post what parts you used? Cheers


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

mremanxx said:


> Did it make much difference? Can you post what parts you used? Cheers


I purchased a PID controller & SSR via eBay - the controller was made by Sestos.

Used the guide from here:

http://up.picr.de/3043530.pdf

Also purchased crimps & used a 13A power cable for my wiring (cut up into lengths). Piece of cake if you have a read of the instructions


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

mremanxx said:


> Did it make much difference? Can you post what parts you used? Cheers


I purchased a PID controller & SSR via eBay - the controller was made by Sestos.

Used the guide from here:

http://up.picr.de/3043530.pdf

Also purchased crimps & used a 13A power cable for my wiring (cut up into lengths). Piece of cake if you have a read of the instructions


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

TA


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