# Identifying gaggia classic models and their differences



## inspector-71

I am looking to get a second hand classic but keep getting concerned about the different models and what the differences are. Much googling has not really come up with the answers I am looking for

I think the standard classic has the branding "classic gaggia" stuck on the front and looks similar to this

http://www.hugoread.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Gaggia-Classic.jpg

Then we have those with "classic gaggia" printed on the front

http://cdn.dealsdirect.net/m/products/30/4030/1/product1_4030.jpg

And then those which get advertised 2nd hand as gaggia classic but are branded "classic coffee gaggia"

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzMyWDY5NA==/z/Ia0AAMXQTghRKK~1/$(KGrHqVHJEwFEokin)D(BRKK+1J1+w~~60_35.JPG

http://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/CND2X014MENSNCO-IMS-global?wid=225&hei=225&$jpglarge$

Are these latter two a different model entriely? No OPV or 3 way?

Thanks


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## The Systemic Kid

If it's pre 2009, it's not Philips who are the owners/manufacturers now. The Philips' era changes are to do with the three way solenoid - not as robust as the Gaggia era. All Classics have a 3 way solenoid and OPV.


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## inspector-71

How can you spot a Philips from looks?


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## coffeechap

you just have to look at the date tags, basically the label on the bottom has the month and year or manufcater, you cant tell by just looking, you have to take the lid off.


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## inspector-71

So is the classic coffee gaggia a classic gaggia?


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## The Systemic Kid

It's all the same - correct title is 'Gaggia Classic'.


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## inspector-71

Thanks for the help.


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## coffeechap

No that's not quite correct the classic coffee gaggia has no solenoid. Where as the gaggia classic does


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## Willie Ekaslike

coffeechap said:


> No that's not quite correct the classic coffee gaggia has no solenoid. Where as the gaggia classic does


Sorry for resurrecting an old post but my Classic Coffee Gaggia has a solenoid, I know because I stripped it down a couple of days ago.


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## coffeechap

Sorry to correct you but the coffee gaggias do not have solenoids, but the classic do post a picture up of your machine.


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## Willie Ekaslike

I stand to be corrected as I'm new to all this...


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## Charliej

I thought there was one model that was called a Coffee Classic and that was the one that didn't have a solenoid, or am I imagining that?


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## marcuswar

I know that the "Gaggia Coffee Deluxe*" *doesn't have a solenoid as I used to have one. It also doesn't have an adjustable OPV. Just checked my old "Gold" coloured Gaggia Classic (which definitely does have a solenoid) and the text on the front says "Classic Coffee Gaggia". Like this one;

  

This machine is quite old (1997) so maybe Gaggia/Philips rationalised the names at some point with "coffee" being reserved for the cheaper non OPV versions. Either way I guess the simplest way to tell is to look for solenoid exhaust pipe i.e. the metal pipe on left over the drip tray. If it has one then it has a solenoid.


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## marcuswar

Charliej said:


> I thought there was one model that was called a Coffee Classic and that was the one that didn't have a solenoid, or am I imagining that?


Now you mention it , that does ring a bell Charlie. I think it may have been the same as the coffee deluxe but with either a different coloured case or a plastic case or something like that.


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## Willie Ekaslike

Mine has the gold coloured (metal) casing and the label on the bottom says Model: Classic Coffee. And it has a solenoid (make of it what you will). It's a1999 model.


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## sharpknife

Hi

I have 3 machines all bought in 2002 (home and different places of work). Two of them are printed on the front in black "Gaggia Classic Coffee" and one "Gaggia Coffee". The "Classic Coffee" machines have a solenoid and the "Coffee" does not. One of the Classic Coffees is currently disasembled as the heater has failed and parts are currently soaking in descaler. The solenoid is an OLAB. Can provide photos if doubt still lurks.


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## ratty

Resurrecting this as I have been searching for info and came across this post.

I have two gold coloured models a 1997 and a 1998.

Both have Classic Coffee Gaggia written on the front.

They both have solenoids of the larger variety.

The first picture is of the name on the front of the 1998 model that I have completely refurbished so am not going to start stripping it down again!

Second picture is of the 1997 Classic that I am refurbishing over the next week or so. As you can see it has the larger Parker solenoid, same written on the front.

I would have thought the wrong info would have been retracted?


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## light87

I have just bought one of this old Gaggia Classic cooffee machine, still in the waiting to receive it, anyway I'm planning to restore and mod it. I think that it would be better to replace all this brass parts, expecially the head group because it may be possible that this could be brass with lead in higher % than brass used today with very low lead value. What do you think?


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## ratty

You may have a point!

Distribution of the lead in a product is not always uniform though and can depend on various factors, such as initial mixing in the molten state, cooling thereof and subsequent machining of the part. Lead content has recently been lowered in brass though, especially in the US, from 4% max to 0.25%.

But be wary of some brand new group heads as the new 2019+ Classic machines have had some problems with peeling of the chrome covered outer layer.

I'm not sure if it was just a certain batch or a change in materials.


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## light87

> You may have a point!
> 
> Distribution of the lead in a product is not always uniform though and can depend on various factors, such as initial mixing in the molten state, cooling thereof and subsequent machining of the part. Lead content has recently been lowered in brass though, especially in the US, from 4% max to 0.25%.
> 
> But be wary of some brand new group heads as the new 2019+ Classic machines have had some problems with peeling of the chrome covered outer layer.
> 
> I'm not sure if it was just a certain batch or a change in materials.


 Chrome deposition can be tricky, it's really not uncommon to see them detaching sadly and this is for every brand. Surely use the machine with the carthridge for descaling can help. That said it could be that there ia fallen batch that is more sensitive to detaching.

Regarding this machine that I'm waiting to receive I think that I'll probably change the Group Head and also the OVP valve which is massive brass. Regarding the OPV valve I was actually thinking to buy this pump from Fluidotech https://www.devecchigiuseppesrl.com/e-commerce/welcome/ordini/dettagli.asp?codice-articolo=9V856 that seem to be better build than the ULKA and also come with a bypass in brass CW510L which is brass with low level lead. The bypass should allow you to adjust the pressure level.

Only note about this pump, it take a diode to work so I think you need to cut the wire and solde the diode on it before the wire itself get connected to the pump but not that great deal.


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## light87

My new old Gaggia has arrived, here some pictures it seem new:


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## allikat

Definitely not new, but it's in really great condition.

Item 1: assuming it works: Go mark up all the boiler and thermostat connectors with a permanent marker so you can ensure you can pop out the boiler and put all back together again.

Item 2: Backflush it, initially with water to check the 3 way and ensure that's happy too.


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## light87

allikat said:


> Definitely not new, but it's in really great condition.
> 
> Item 1: assuming it works: Go mark up all the boiler and thermostat connectors with a permanent marker so you can ensure you can pop out the boiler and put all back together again.
> 
> Item 2: Backflush it, initially with water to check the 3 way and ensure that's happy too.


 Actually I think that I'm gonna to disassemble it all to clean everything.


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## Agentb

One thing I've been meaning to ask the original v1 owners, (pre Phillips) from memory I recall reading they changed the stainless steel and the old ones are less magnetic.

Or, is that an urban myth?


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## allikat

Agentb said:


> One thing I've been meaning to ask the original v1 owners, (pre Phillips) from memory I recall reading they changed the stainless steel and the old ones are less magnetic.
> 
> Or, is that an urban myth?


 I do know my little timer will stick magnetically to my 2001 model, but my Mr. Shades magnetic timer just slides down the side, but that sticks fine to my fridge and microwave. I guess my machine isn't very magnetic. Stainless blends do vary from almost non-magnetic to just as magnetic as regular steel.


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## light87

Agentb said:


> One thing I've been meaning to ask the original v1 owners, (pre Phillips) from memory I recall reading they changed the stainless steel and the old ones are less magnetic.
> 
> Or, is that an urban myth?


 I have tried with fridge magnet and it get attracted ( not that powerful anyway).

I have just disassembled the machine, I have seen an auction where the seller states that this particular version of Classic is gold plated and it says that he has the Gaggia certification of this. Is that true? Is the Group head really gold plated?


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## light87

ratty said:


> You may have a point!
> 
> Distribution of the lead in a product is not always uniform though and can depend on various factors, such as initial mixing in the molten state, cooling thereof and subsequent machining of the part. Lead content has recently been lowered in brass though, especially in the US, from 4% max to 0.25%.
> 
> But be wary of some brand new group heads as the new 2019+ Classic machines have had some problems with peeling of the chrome covered outer layer.
> 
> I'm not sure if it was just a certain batch or a change in materials.


 By the way I have seen that the inside of the gruop head ( where the water goes in contact) seems atcually to be copper or at least some kind of copper deposition. What concern me is for the brass is the steam arm tap and the over pressure valve which seems to be classic brass so may be with lead content.

P.S. Is the boiler still in alluminum right?


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## allikat

The did gold plate some Classics, for an anniversary model I think. I doubt there's a certificate for it, but maybe there is one to show it's a genuine anniversary gold one... but the gold content in my computer FAR exceeds the gold content on a Classic gold version. It's electroplated, and really thin.


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## ratty

allikat said:


> I do know my little timer will stick magnetically to my 2001 model, but my Mr. Shades magnetic timer just slides down the side, but that sticks fine to my fridge and microwave. I guess my machine isn't very magnetic. Stainless blends do vary from almost non-magnetic to just as magnetic as regular steel.


 https://www.metalsupermarkets.co.uk/is-stainless-steel-magnetic/


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## light87

ratty said:


> Resurrecting this as I have been searching for info and came across this post.
> 
> I have two gold coloured models a 1997 and a 1998.
> 
> Both have Classic Coffee Gaggia written on the front.
> 
> They both have solenoids of the larger variety.
> 
> The first picture is of the name on the front of the 1998 model that I have completely refurbished so am not going to start stripping it down again!
> 
> Second picture is of the 1997 Classic that I am refurbishing over the next week or so. As you can see it has the larger Parker solenoid, same written on the front.
> 
> I would have thought the wrong info would have been retracted?
> 
> View attachment 47360


 Hi ratty

I have a question for you, what have you used to drill the hole ( I guess araound 40 mm ) on the front of the metal case of the Gaggia Classic?

I have this cutter in HSS but I don't know if it's enought to can the inox sheet metal. It would be better if it would be at least HSS-E with cobalt....


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## El carajillo

It looks to be a reasonable make, I think it would be suitable for what you need. Speed for 40 mm hole in stainless 110 rpm = yes slow


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## Gilly

inspector-71 said:


> I am looking to get a second hand classic but keep getting concerned about the different models and what the differences are. Much googling has not really come up with the answers I am looking for
> 
> I think the standard classic has the branding "classic gaggia" stuck on the front and looks similar to this
> 
> http://www.hugoread.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Gaggia-Classic.jpg
> 
> Then we have those with "classic gaggia" printed on the front
> 
> http://cdn.dealsdirect.net/m/products/30/4030/1/product1_4030.jpg
> 
> And then those which get advertised 2nd hand as gaggia classic but are branded "classic coffee gaggia"
> 
> http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzMyWDY5NA==/z/Ia0AAMXQTghRKK~1/$(KGrHqVHJEwFEokin)D(BRKK+1J1+w~~60_35.JPG
> 
> http://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/CND2X014MENSNCO-IMS-global?wid=225&hei=225&$jpglarge$
> 
> Are these latter two a different model entriely? No OPV or 3 way?
> 
> Thanks


 Pre 2002 Classic Gaggia's are 1425watt and the casing is made of mild grade steel hence you see rust on these below the water tank/underside; they have the stick on coffee pot on the front. All these had 3 way Solenoids.

From 2002-2004 Gaggia changed the cabinet to Stainless Steel thus eliminating the rust problem.These were still 1425watt with Solenoid and printed on logo.These machines are generally seen as the best that came out of the Gaggia factory.

From 2005-2007 the cabinet logo was now a chrome badge.The wattage was lowered to 1300. These though still retained the larger and better Parker or Olab Solenoid, and kept all brass steam valve etc.

FROM 2007 onwards the cabinet retained the chrome badge, but Gaggia fitted a much smaller Solenoid and revised pump.

Consequent Classics underwent changes to their wattages; from 1300watt down to 1200wattthen down to 1050 watt. Most of this cost cutting was a result of the Philips takeover. Some units were still made in the EU but not Italy.

Eventually all units were made in non EU countries and resulted in the dreadful 2015 model with no Solenoid.


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## allikat

@Gilly is right, but with one proviso: There's overlap between these models. As there's often old parts in the chain which get used in the newer revisions.

Please don't fixate on boiler wattage though, as they're all capable enough.


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## light87

Gilly said:


> Pre 2002 Classic Gaggia's are 1425watt and the casing is made of mild grade steel hence you see rust on these below the water tank/underside; they have the stick on coffee pot on the front. All these had 3 way Solenoids.
> 
> From 2002-2004 Gaggia changed the cabinet to Stainless Steel thus eliminating the rust problem.These were still 1425watt with Solenoid and printed on logo.These machines are generally seen as the best that came out of the Gaggia factory.
> 
> From 2005-2007 the cabinet logo was now a chrome badge.The wattage was lowered to 1300. These though still retained the larger and better Parker or Olab Solenoid, and kept all brass steam valve etc.
> 
> FROM 2007 onwards the cabinet retained the chrome badge, but Gaggia fitted a much smaller Solenoid and revised pump.
> 
> Consequent Classics underwent changes to their wattages; from 1300watt down to 1200wattthen down to 1050 watt. Most of this cost cutting was a result of the Philips takeover. Some units were still made in the EU but not Italy.
> 
> Eventually all units were made in non EU countries and resulted in the dreadful 2015 model with no Solenoid.
> 
> So my 1998 isn't stainless steel....any suggestion to prevent rust formation? Maybe a treatment ?


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## ratty

light87 said:


> Hi ratty
> 
> I have a question for you, what have you used to drill the hole ( I guess araound 40 mm ) on the front of the metal case of the Gaggia Classic?
> 
> I have this cutter in HSS but I don't know if it's enought to can the inox sheet metal. It would be better if it would be at least HSS-E with cobalt....


 I use a Q-Max hole punch.

Prices vary widely but you should pick one up for around £20

To use the punch you first need to drill a hole 10mm dia.

I first centre punch the required hole position.

I then drill a 3mm pilot hole and then the 10mm hole.

I use cobalt drills.

I wouldn't attempt to drill the hole with a HSS cutter personally.

*NB* You find that different gauges have different outside diameters. The Q-Max have both Metric and Imperial sizes cutters so you can choose the nearest required size. Sometimes you have to dremel out a small half moon shape in the hole to enable the rubber bung that's a filler point for the glycerine in the gauge to fit. Don't force the bung through the opening as it can leak glycerine.


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## El carajillo

ratty said:


> I use a Q-Max hole punch.
> 
> Prices vary widely but you should pick one up for around £20
> 
> To use the punch you first need to drill a hole 10mm dia.
> 
> I first centre punch the required hole position.
> 
> I then drill a 3mm pilot hole and then the 10mm hole.
> 
> I use cobalt drills.
> 
> I wouldn't attempt to drill the hole with a HSS cutter personally.
> 
> *NB* You find that different gauges have different outside diameters. The Q-Max have both Metric and Imperial sizes cutters so you can choose the nearest required size. Sometimes you have to dremel out a small half moon shape in the hole to enable the rubber bung that's a filler point for the glycerine in the gauge to fit. Don't force the bung through the opening as it can leak glycerine.


 I was unsure about the quality but it looked to be reasonable, I use STARRET holesaw's and have not found any problem doing so.

My only recommendation is to use the locking mandrel which holds the hole-saw rigid =at the correct speed.


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## light87

I think that I'll try with my cutter and some cut oil, doing that very very slow. ANyway I think that I'll do this next week, so I'll let you know.


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## light87

Gilly said:


> Pre 2002 Classic Gaggia's are 1425watt and the casing is made of mild grade steel hence you see rust on these below the water tank/underside; they have the stick on coffee pot on the front. All these had 3 way Solenoids.
> 
> From 2002-2004 Gaggia changed the cabinet to Stainless Steel thus eliminating the rust problem.These were still 1425watt with Solenoid and printed on logo.These machines are generally seen as the best that came out of the Gaggia factory.
> 
> From 2005-2007 the cabinet logo was now a chrome badge.The wattage was lowered to 1300. These though still retained the larger and better Parker or Olab Solenoid, and kept all brass steam valve etc.
> 
> FROM 2007 onwards the cabinet retained the chrome badge, but Gaggia fitted a much smaller Solenoid and revised pump.
> 
> Consequent Classics underwent changes to their wattages; from 1300watt down to 1200wattthen down to 1050 watt. Most of this cost cutting was a result of the Philips takeover. Some units were still made in the EU but not Italy.
> 
> Eventually all units were made in non EU countries and resulted in the dreadful 2015 model with no Solenoid.


 Mine should be in the mild grade steel then, as you have sees is the gold-like one. On the outside I cannot see any rust, there are some rust spot on the inside here and there, I think that I will eliminate the rust with a converter and then I'll spray a transparent rust protector inside, what do you think?


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## ratty

As a point of interest I have two cases at the moment a 2003 and a 2005 Classic.

Both are non magnetic stainless steel.

The 2003 case is 2.5mm thick sheet throughout. The 2005 case has been reduced to 2.2mm thick sheet.


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## light87

By the way I have my steam tap attached to the boiler and it's coming out, I have of course removed the 2 screws but it's attached ...probably for scale, any suggestion to removed it? An hammer?


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## El carajillo

light87 said:


> By the way I have my steam tap attached to the boiler and it's coming out, I have of course removed the 2 screws but it's attached ...probably for scale, any suggestion to removed it? An hammer?


 Use a broad bladed FLAT screwdriver to gently ease it off


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## Alfieboy

light87 said:


> By the way I have my steam tap attached to the boiler and it's coming out, I have of course removed the 2 screws but it's attached ...probably for scale, any suggestion to removed it? An hammer?


 Remember it looks like this it's not flat - I found hot water in the boiler helped and moving from side to side


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## ratty

Uncletits said:


> I found hot water in the boiler helped and moving from side to side


 You could also try carefully heating the top of the boiler with a blow torch., to get the same effect as hot water in the boiler.

Aluminium expands slightly more than brass when heated so it should make the valve slightly easier to remove.


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## Gilly

ratty said:


> As a point of interest I have two cases at the moment a 2003 and a 2005 Classic.
> 
> Both are non magnetic stainless steel.
> 
> The 2003 case is 2.5mm thick sheet throughout. The 2005 case has been reduced to 2.2mm thick sheet.


 Yet another cost cutting exercise then!


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## Gilly

ratty said:


> As a point of interest I have two cases at the moment a 2003 and a 2005 Classic.
> 
> Both are non magnetic stainless steel.
> 
> The 2003 case is 2.5mm thick sheet throughout. The 2005 case has been reduced to 2.2mm thick sheet.


 Yet another cost cutting exercise then.!


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## light87

Uncletits said:


> Remember it looks like this it's not flat - I found hot water in the boiler helped and moving from side to side
> 
> View attachment 52789


 Thank you I have successfully removed the steam tap with some acid to remove scale and then hot water. Now how can i remove the pin inside the tap?

like this one:









I guess that I just need to pull after unscrew counterclockwise ? Actually mine looks different on the head as it's not threaded ...


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## Alfieboy

light87 said:


> Thank you I have successfully removed the steam tap with some acid to remove scale and then hot water. Now how can i remove the pin inside the tap?
> 
> like this one:
> 
> View attachment 52847
> 
> 
> I guess that I just need to pull after unscrew counterclockwise ? Actually mine looks different on the head as it's not threaded ...
> 
> View attachment 52848


 I send mine to @FairRecycler he does a rework to enable them to be taken apart in the future


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## light87

Ah so it is not possible to disassembled it as it is ?


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## allikat

They're not made to be taken apart, and you have to attack it with skill and power tools to convert it to one that can be renovated and rebuilt.


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## Alfieboy

light87 said:


> Ah so it is not possible to disassembled it as it is ?


 No @FairRecyclerdoes a rework so adds the thread and nut and replaces the seal - through the forum does it a little cheaper than his eBay shop too


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## FairRecycler

Hi,

@Uncletits Thank you for mentioning me here.

@light87 FYI:

Finally I've written up a guide for the refurbishment process, and posted under the original thread.


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## L&R

Identify my white Gaggia Catssic please


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## FairRecycler

L&R said:


> Identify my white Gaggia Catssic please
> 
> View attachment 52868


 Looking at this photo makes me feel, I'm not a weirdo. It is normal to have such a shelf, isn't it? 🤣

What do you normally do with the MDFs?


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## L&R

If you will feel better this is only one wall of all . MDF1 s are for decor mostly but they work well for 30y old machines, how many of current grinders will live this much?


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## FairRecycler

L&R said:


> If you will feel better this is only one wall of all . MDF1 s are for decor mostly but they work well for 30y old machines, how many of current grinders will live this much?


 🤣🤣 Much better, thank you, so I was right to buy another 5, as I went below 10 and felt anxious about it 🤣🤣

What's the difference between MDF1 and MDF2. I had a couple from the he early 90's, I've done the silicone gasket stepless mod, and I was more then pleased with the he results.


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## L&R

MDF 1 has AC motor 155W w/o gear, full aluminum housing, MDF2 is dc 100W geared motor, plastic housing. For me only version 1 is interesting.


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## PACMAN

Would an MDF be a 'good' first grinder to get (second hand of course!) There's one for sale near me for £100 - not sure if that is a good price or not - plus I'll need to see if it is an MDF1 or MDF2 now that I know there is a difference.


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## light87

Today I have polished the golded-like group head with ametal polish because it was very dirt, the gold effect disappear as I fear of before doing it, kind of disappointing. I don't know if I'm going to buy a new one because the inside (where water flows) is made of brass and I think it could be 3% lead brass which is not that great for food consumption.


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## allikat

PACMAN said:


> Would an MDF be a 'good' first grinder to get (second hand of course!) There's one for sale near me for £100 - not sure if that is a good price or not - plus I'll need to see if it is an MDF1 or MDF2 now that I know there is a difference.


 They're basic little grinders, unless it's pretty well brand new for that price, skip it. There's a lot better out there.


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## PACMAN

allikat said:


> They're basic little grinders, unless it's pretty well brand new for that price, skip it. There's a lot better out there.


 Many thanks! Ultimately I'm in no rush, but once you get an itch to scratch... I'm now looking at other grinders and will continue to search and if/when my itch becones something I have to scratch, I'll just get something like a JX Pro.


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## light87

Hi @ratty

I have seen that in my golded gaggia from 98 there is an Eaton pump no longer produced, what can you tell about this pump? Better switch to the Ulka?


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## ratty

light87 said:


> Hi @ratty
> 
> I have seen that in my golded gaggia from 98 there is an Eaton pump no longer produced, what can you tell about this pump? Better switch to the Ulka?


 Not really up on pumps.

If they work and provide the correct amount of water out of the group head by following the documented testing procedures, to me, all is good.


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## light87

Hi

@ratty I have the case of my 1998 (which is not inox) with no parts mounted and I have seen that there are rust spots almost everywhere in the inside and nothing on the outside. It seems that the steel on the internal sheets metal has no surface treatment so there is rust. Do you know if the sheet metal of the external part has some treatment that prevent rust formation?

I'm gonna try to remove the rust witha prodct and then I'll use a protective anti-rust formation product.


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## ratty

light87 said:


> I'm gonna try to remove the rust with a product and then I'll use a protective anti-rust formation product.


 I did do the same on one pre 2002 machine where the cases are mild steel and not stainless steel, as they were from 2002.

The rust treatment i used turned the metal black (think I left it on too long!) , not pretty, then I used a clear sealant. I don't know if the outside of the mild steel cases are treated in any way or whether it's just the moisture cannot pool, like it can inside the machines.

I now avoid pre 2002 Classics purely for their rusting problem.


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## light87

ratty said:


> I did do the same on one pre 2002 machine where the cases are mild steel and not stainless steel, as they were from 2002.
> 
> The rust treatment i used turned the metal black (think I left it on too long!) , not pretty, then I used a clear sealant. I don't know if the outside of the mild steel cases are treated in any way or whether it's just the moisture cannot pool, like it can inside the machines.
> 
> I now avoid pre 2002 Classics purely for their rusting problem.


 I see, I have bought a rust remover gel...let's see if it removes it actually. Once that I'll remove the rust spots on the inside I have seen a rust protector spray which is basically a trasparent finish that should prevent rust formation.


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## Simmo1969

inspector-71 said:


> I am looking to get a second hand classic but keep getting concerned about the different models and what the differences are. Much googling has not really come up with the answers I am looking for
> 
> I think the standard classic has the branding "classic gaggia" stuck on the front and looks similar to this
> http://www.hugoread.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Gaggia-Classic.jpg
> 
> Then we have those with "classic gaggia" printed on the front
> http://cdn.dealsdirect.net/m/products/30/4030/1/product1_4030.jpg
> 
> And then those which get advertised 2nd hand as gaggia classic but are branded "classic coffee gaggia"
> http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzMyWDY5NA==/z/Ia0AAMXQTghRKK~1/$(KGrHqVHJEwFEokin)D(BRKK+1J1+w~~60_35.JPG
> http://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/CND2X014MENSNCO-IMS-global?wid=225&hei=225&$jpglarge$
> 
> Are these latter two a different model entriely? No OPV


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## Cameron Logan

Any idea what year this would be?


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## RichC

Give us a clue, at least show a picture of the label on the bottom (if there is one).


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## FairRecycler

Cameron Logan said:


> Any idea what year this would be?


 It's from between 2003 and 2018, according to the picture


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## ratty

FairRecycler said:


> It's from between 2003 and 2018, according to the picture


 I think most of the 2003 had the printed Classic Gaggia written in black. There may well have been a crossover in late 2003 but I was under the impression the silver badge started in 2004?


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## Zatogato

ratty said:


> I think most of the 2003 had the printed Classic Gaggia written in black. There may well have been a crossover in late 2003 but I was under the impression the silver badge started in 2004?


 I've just been reading through this thread and wondered whether the 2003 with the shiny finish and printed logo is stainless or is rust something to watch out for with it?


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## ratty

Zatogato said:


> I've just been reading through this thread and wondered whether the 2003 with the shiny finish and printed logo is stainless or is rust something to watch out for with it?


 The metal was changed from mild steel to stainless steel in 2002 to 2004 with the case being 1.5mm thick steel. In 2005 the stainless steel thickness was reduced to 1.2mm.

It is thought by some people that 2002 to 2004 is the best years for Classics with their thicker cases (less bend stresses when tightening the portafilter) and their resistance to corrosion.

The material is the same for polished or matt (brushed) finishes on the cases.


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## larkim

When I randomly bought a GC on ebay because my Krups Novo 2100 gave up the ghost, I had zero insight into whether any one GC was better than another!


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## Cameron Logan

Tracking in the machine says it will arrive tomorrow. Suppose it has a label. Not in the description.

I've been busy getting ready to upgrade. I'm into it this deep :

Gaggia Classic Facebook MKT $120

PID Auberins $206.98

OPV Spring eBay $11.19 from Israel

Tamper eBay $29.79 Luxhaus

Leveling tool

Isomac Pressure Guage eBay $32.09

Portafilter Upgrade eBay Btmless $44.95

Filter Basket IMS Amazon 22g $19.48

Rancilio Steam Wand Amazon $24.80

Dosing Cup eBay $20.94

Shower Screen Upgrade $44.90

Cafiza Amazon $15.21


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## FairRecycler

ratty said:


> I think most of the 2003 had the printed Classic Gaggia written in black. There may well have been a crossover in late 2003 but I was under the impression the silver badge started in 2004?


 Fair point.


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## Zatogato

Hey guys, just wondered which pump came with 2003 models and if this one is the original?

I thought that they came with the 65w Invensys but realised I might be mistaken, the housing on those seems to be blue rather than this weird dull orange. I haven't removed it yet but doesn't look like there's a sticker unless it's hiding under the housing. It does need a good cleanup, perhaps there's a leak judging by the brown gunk and corrosion here...


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## Cameron Logan

I am assuming this is a 2004. It is so clean. The inside looks new and the face shows some scratches, but that is Windex and papertowel smearing, not scratches... I am soaking the tank as it was moldy and will run a couple of cleaning cycles with whatever descaler I can find....

2004?


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## RichC

2014, says right there. The 04 is the week (or month?) is manufacturing.

It's also a US model designed for 120V, I assume that isn't a problem as you seem to be purchasing in dollars.


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## Cameron Logan

Some bigger pics. Got this on Facebook Marketplace USA. $100.... I am very pleased. Haven't fired it up yet, but the inside looks new. The front appears to be scratched, but that would be glass cleaner that I wiped off with paper towel. The new Dawn detergent and a toothbrush took off what looked like rust pitting. Soaking the tank and lid because it had some black mold. Just needs a new want. The old wand was missing the panerello portion. Very happy. So clean and no smells etc...Ordered all the mods. I have another one coming (chrome) from ebay .. $100


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## Cameron Logan

2014.. Ok.. my bad. Yes, I am in the US.. Is the boiler stainless or aluminum. I would really love it to say Italy rather than Romania. I am happy..


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## RichC

I think all the pre-2015 classics are aluminium boilers.


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## Cameron Logan

Threw it together and work fantastic. Just need to run a descaler and get the guts clean.. NICE!!


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## Cameron Logan

*
RichC thanks
*


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## Kevviek

Gilly said:


> Pre 2002 Classic Gaggia's are 1425watt and the casing is made of mild grade steel hence you see rust on these below the water tank/underside; they have the stick on coffee pot on the front. All these had 3 way Solenoids.
> 
> From 2002-2004 Gaggia changed the cabinet to Stainless Steel thus eliminating the rust problem.These were still 1425watt with Solenoid and printed on logo.These machines are generally seen as the best that came out of the Gaggia factory.
> 
> From 2005-2007 the cabinet logo was now a chrome badge.The wattage was lowered to 1300. These though still retained the larger and better Parker or Olab Solenoid, and kept all brass steam valve etc.
> 
> FROM 2007 onwards the cabinet retained the chrome badge, but Gaggia fitted a much smaller Solenoid and revised pump.
> 
> Consequent Classics underwent changes to their wattages; from 1300watt down to 1200wattthen down to 1050 watt. Most of this cost cutting was a result of the Philips takeover. Some units were still made in the EU but not Italy.
> 
> Eventually all units were made in non EU countries and resulted in the dreadful 2015 model with no Solenoid.


 I'm looking at one which is a 45/2017 build, made in Romania, marked SIN035 and 1300w. It leaks from the body, so wondering if it's going to be worth fixing


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## Simmo1969

Kevviek said:


> I'm looking at one which is a 45/2017 build, made in Romania, marked SIN035 and 1300w. It leaks from the body, so wondering if it's going to be worth fixing


 If it does not have the silver outlet pipe on the left and the large steam button, I'd steer clear. I have just refurbished a classic if you're in the uk and interested


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## Gilly

That pump is an INVENSEYS 68w. It is a much better pump than the Ulka but is not serviceable.


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