# Wega Atlas EPU2 rebuild



## Jakester (Aug 24, 2012)

Hi all

Only joined the forum today so no clue as to what I am doing!!

I got hold of a well used Wega. Decided to pull the boiler out to descale. That wore me out. Anyway its siting in a bin with some descaler. What do you do to the group heads I have the mushrooms out and descaling how much more would you strip them down?

I have not had it running yet as the pipe work to plumb in is stuck behind a fridge that is going to be moved, same with the electrics.

I noticed the small pipes under the drip trays are pretty green not sure if they have leaked in the past or just mucky.

On reassembly what is the best thing to seal the pipes with? Gaskets on the screw fittings but some are just copper glands. Is there a good sealent that can be reccomended?

Anyone know a company to de the famous preassure test? Will check all the valves myself before hand as that looks easy enough, but will need the certificate.

Sorry for so many questions Just excited to get it all back together and some decent coffee....

Vince


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Hi Vince

the copper glands shouldn't need any sealant as they are a formed joint and if clean should seal well, if you realy want to use a sealing compound you need to make sure its potable (drinking water safe) there are plenty but dont use tape as you will expand the threads and could damage them.

sounds like your doing the rest just fine. there are quite a few good threads on descaling have a search.


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

To avoid having to "do it all again", you want to have all the piping as clean as possible before the rebuild:

* Bung all the pipework into the descaler.

* Dismantle each group head & bung all the parts into the descaler (keep each head & its components separate)

* When re-assembling, clean up all the joints with a "green scratchy cloth".

IMO, it's ok to use a little PTFE tape to ensure leakproof joints (we use it all the time on repairs & rebuilds)

* Remember you're working with copper & brass connectors,so don't overtighten the nuts !

* The solenoid valves can be descaled & overhauled, but may still leak: Consider fitting new ones anyway.

* Don't re-use fibre /teflon gaskets - they always leak,even when sanded down. Use new ones.

* Test the electrics with a multimeter, etc before switching on. Use a power-breaker as well, just in case.....

Re. pressure testing: Ask around at some local coffeeshops who they use. (you'll be surprised how many owners don't have a certificate !)


----------



## MelonCoffee (Jun 21, 2012)

You may be surprised at how many do not have a 'pressure test certificate' - one thing to note is though...It is a point of law as it is a statute instrument. Just because other coffee shop owners don't get it done does not exempt you from that law! (it is only law if used in a commercial environment)

Points to note on pressure testing:

It is unlikely that your regular repair company qualifies to do this

Insurance is unlikely to pay out in the event of a problem (as you were operating outside the law)

The Pressure System Safety Regulations does not contain any provision for issue of a 'stop' notice from environmental health, however, non-compliance proves failure to observe other regulations, notably Health & Safety at Work Act 1974 (the '74 act) & Provision for Use of Work Equipment Regulations (PUWER) under both of which you can be stopped from operating.

You probably do not have enough 'posts' to PM me but if you want any more information I am happy for you to give me a call 07729 598982


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

PS

* It pays to fit a new anti-vac valve & new, certified safety valve when rebuilding. They're both industry standard parts & should be quite cheap....


----------

