# Electronics peeps



## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Looking at nice switches for the EK. One that's nicer than the R120 too ideally so the EK can be the bestest.

This is what's in there now:

  IMAG1934 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Are these the key numbers I need to make sure the new switch is up to?

AC240V

DC50V

I want one of these but not sure it would cut the mustard: http://www.eccmec.it/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/New-ITW-Series-H.pdf

Going to end up a with a big drawer full of buttons no doubt.

What's the big thing sticking out the middle for? That looks like a potential problem. Thermal overload perhaps?


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## Neill (Jun 26, 2013)

Have you hacked pergers face off the bottom yet?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Neill said:


> Have you hacked pergers face off the bottom yet?


Speaking to the chap in the machine shop about that tomorrow afternoon. He's looking at the pictures tonight and having a think about it


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Neill said:


> Have you hacked pergers face off the bottom yet?


the rumour says that its a voodoo doll on the sticker. He will actually bleed!


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

garydyke1 said:


> the rumour says that its a voodoo doll on the sticker. He will actually bleed!


And i'll lose 2% EY


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

jeebsy said:


> And i'll lose 2% EY


You'll hear a spooky voice ''you great galah!''

The downwards spiral of death is an appropriate name for the wrath cast upon your doomed soul


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

garydyke1 said:


> You'll hear a spooky voice ''you great galah!''
> 
> The downwards spiral of death is an appropriate name for the wrath cast upon your doomed soul


Mines still got some dodgy bald bloke on it


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Mrboots2u said:


> Mines still got some dodgy bald bloke on it


Its protecting your grinder from evil


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Those numbers on the switch ....think of those as minimums so at least 20amp, 240v etc

the switch you linked to is not man enough to last at 10amp


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Do they make pretty switches rated that high? 20A seems loads when it's only a 13A plug?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Have you got a wiring diagram for an EK ?

Does the EK have a contractor inside it ?

i Doubt the motor load is passing through that switch. (But in my defence hard to tell from this far away)

AC motors have an inrush of between 5-7 times their current rating ,


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Untitled by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Can't find any nice 20A rated switches :-(


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

That bit sticking out the side may be a slow 16A fuse , there is one somewhere .

Cant read the details of the switch ,

Starting current of your motor (capacitor start ) will be at least five times its rating and as the load passes directly through the switch your replacement switch should be rated to allow for this.

Typically switches for ac motor control will Have a Horse power rating .

i can't seem to find on the internet what HP the motor in the EK is , it would possibly be on a rating plate attached to the grinder .


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

What kind of switch were you thinking of Rotary or toggle ?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

1.75hp


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

You need to ascertain what the lump is , if that's the fuse you going to have to think things through .

If there is room for a contactor in the body you can have virtually any button you like.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

I'll take the switch out later and have a butchers. Is a contactor big? There's plenty of room in the base, it's hollow but it might be getting chopped.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

if it's something like this then definitely


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

If you take a look at the auber timer mod there is a solid state relay which would be smaller. If getting one of those instead of a contactor be careful to match it with your needs


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

This is getting a bit complicated. Fear creeping in slightly.

Would an SSR be better than a contactor, what's the difference?


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

http://solidstaterelaystore.com/ssradvantages.aspx

example:

http://solidstaterelaystore.com/pfseries2.aspx

and

http://solidstaterelaystore.com/pf6090a.aspx


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Cheers, need to do some reason. Same principle with this then - use a relay and I can get away with a shiney, light up 10A switch?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Hager make din rail mounted contractors nice tidy unit , now getting a price for you


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

That wiring diagram suggests that there is already a contactor fitted. You would therefore only be switching a lower current in the contactor coil and might get away with those pretty switches if they are rated at 10a 240v


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

IMAG1963 by wjheenan, on Flickr

Two capacitors?

  IMAG1964 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1965 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1966 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1967 by wjheenan, on Flickr

  IMAG1968 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

http://www.e-t-a.com/

That's the company name on the mystery lump


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Capacitor start capacitor run ;-)


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Is the switch illuminated by any chance ??


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

No but it's got an overload protector thing:

  IMAG1969 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

i think you will find that's F1

really mate this easy if you can mount a contractor Somewhere.

is the switch a two button affair push one to start and push the other to stop. ?

is there a wire going to the lump ? If so where does it go ?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

From the lump:

  IMAG1971 by wjheenan, on Flickr

To here no 3:

  IMAG1970 by wjheenan, on Flickr


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Then it must be L1 on the drawing


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Right I need to know how the switch works

does it hold it self in (on) mechanically ? Is it just push in and it stays in ?

really hard to understand things from pictures .

sorry for the daft questions but I think I have Sussed What the lump is


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Push and it clicks and stays. If there's no power it doesn't click when you push the green button, it just goes back to off position. Is that when you mean by holding itself mechanically?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

What you have there is not just a switch its a circuit breaker ,

forget what I said about it being easy , but it is still do able


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

L1 is a voltage release coil ( the lump)


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

This project is gently edging towards the scrapheap


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Going to take a major rethink , anything is achievable but for now put your grinder together and I will have have think about it tomorrow .


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

The thing the capacitors and the thing all the wires go into would need reconfigured too


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Its easy you can use a contractor with a set of overloads for overcurrent protection and just wire e1 in to the associated control circuit ,

The only problem you have is being able to fit it all the body of the grinder .

Shame you don't live closer


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

I'd probably rather have an EK with a nice switch than a short EK at the moment. How big would the contactor and overloads be? The same sort of size we were looking at previously?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Half a Jaffa cake box


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Haha, that universal unit of measurement. I'll check it out tomorrow, ta. And we would need to keep everything else that's already in there? Can it just float about or does it need bolted onto something?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Nah you can't have it floating about , I would aim to get it fitted on the base plate , the only thing I can't do this end is work out how you are going to mount it, normally you would fit a piece of metal called din rail to say the base and the contractor clips directly to that,

I can do lots of the wiring on the contractor and even wire up a start and stop button and ship it ready to go , the wiring is relatively easy TBH .

I would tend to use better quality components as they will be less noisy and potentially have a smaller footprint, if you want me to price it send me a PM with the motor details and I will get a quote for the parts.

if you wanna ship the EK I can do this for you but obvisouly shipping will blow your budget.

apart from working out mounting the switchgear I reckon it's only about half hour work.

perhaps move the capacitors ? (Wires can be extended or replaced )

needs to to be solid mounting dude especially as this is being moved about every other weekend .

I have a couple of contactors in the van brand new but I think they might have 415v coils in them and or frame size might be too big.

overloads will be pricey but best to wait until they quote me rather than guess.


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Could the caps go on a DIN rail with the contractor and the thing all the wires go into (what's this called?) on another din rail? I think you might get two across the bottom but it would be hard otherwise

I'll look into shipping, could be an option if i get scared


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

The machine shop I went to said they would do the work, but he was at pains to emphasise that once they start cutting it, that's it. No going back.


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## froggystyle (Oct 30, 2013)

Whats the driving force behind cutting it again?


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

Stupidity


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## froggystyle (Oct 30, 2013)

I think you should extend it!


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Get a mazzer body and modify that to sit the motor on . Call it a mazzek


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