# La Pavoni Europiccola 1977 (2.0) rebuild



## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

This is the second attempt at documenting my restoration of a Pavoni Europiccola 1977.

The previous thread got corrupted and the admin decided to take it offline.

This is it, a Europiccola 1977 bought on Ebay for about 150 EUR.

There is a bit of rust on the base, but the rest looks good: I will disassemble it and then start documenting the restoration


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Disassembling the Pavoni, fun until I got to the heating element.

I softly hammered it (after leaving a copious amount of WD40 overnight) and eventually it came off.

















All gaskets around the base and heating element are completely burnt and need to be replaced (expected)









New color for the base


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Heating element: it needs some soaking in vinegar









Vinegar doing its job (I also put it upside down and soaked it for other couple of hours)









This is the finished product: it's much better, although I'm sure there are better ways to clean it properly.









Under the base, a quick look at the month/year (4/77) and the wiring. All seems to be in order, but I will change all the wires, including the power cord









with this fancy red one.









I also ordered a NAKED portafilter, IMS shower and basket, along with a full service kit with all the gaskets.


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Now on with the fun part: putting it back together!

Heating element with the new gasket (https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La-Pavoni-Lever-Fibre-Element-Gasket---465226/m-2197.aspx)









And the base is finally back, couldn't wait to put that power cord in to see the color combination: not bad at all.









Grid plate: a black one seemed more appropriate with a white base (and also cheaper)









Had to sand the internal part of the hole to make room for the boiler, then it fitted perfectly!


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## Jcon2406 (Aug 29, 2018)

Awesome


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

I would buy the black plastic tray as well for the drip grill, it will preserve the base for you


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Yes you're right.

It just looks so nice without!


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Update: it's been a struggle to tighten the heating element back to the boiler, but now it seems to be done.

Putting back the wiring here









And the lever









Aligning the lever (a wee bit off)









and this is it, in all its glory!

















The switch compartment is something that didn't get too much love during this restoration, but didn't find any replacement part for it. I'd really like to change it to a black one and maybe polish the metal plate a bit more.

All seems to be in working order, I will get to turn it on and test it later today and post a video.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Looks lovely, nice job


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Also, today this came in, a bit of fun for the afternoon


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## martyrdon (Dec 13, 2016)

Ooooh where did you get that gauge?


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## Nopapercup (Nov 6, 2016)

Looks really nice, where did you get the coloured power cable?


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

martyrdon said:


> Ooooh where did you get that gauge?


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/la-Pavoni-Europiccola-pressure-gauge-kit/262863695721

This is the version with the 11mm nut adapter but I may have made a mistake here, because it should fit EP with the plastic sight glass cover, not with the metal cover.

In this version it does fit, but when I turned it on water started to leak from under the nut (not to mention that I tightened the nut too much and cracked the sight glass).

I ended up putting it on my EP 1998 where it fits perfectly.

If you buy it, just email them asking for the right adapter size.


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Nopapercup said:


> Looks really nice, where did you get the coloured power cable?


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coloured-Italian-braided-lighting-3-core-fabric-cable-flex-cord-industrial/131063731311

Choose your color and go! Didn't have any overheating problem, the wires are pretty much the same size as the original.


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Question for someone who has experience with the pressure gauge on this particular EP: should this adapter (https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La-Pavoni-Professional-Pressure-Gauge-Nut-Chrome---3120104/m-2238.aspx) fit? They say it won't, but the 11mm is definitely not the right size.

The guy from Orphan Espresso mentions something about it in this video (minute 3:18):


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

I have to say I had my doubts about the white base but the red badge and red flex sets it off nicely . looks great


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

The early pavs had 12mm thread, they switched it to 11 to stop people adding the Proffesional gauge to the Europiccola as it damaged the exclusivity of the pro,

Your problem is that without some kind of adapter the gauge sits too close to the shoulder of the boiler


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

UPDATE: I received the new sight glass and some threadlock (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012RCYAO) to secure the pressure gauge nut.

Put it all together yesterday and left overnight for the threadlock to cure.









I also had to remove the rubber base last week because after pulling a shot (a few minutes after) it leaked 50% of the water from under the base.

I have tightened the heating element and will keep it without the base for the next few days to make sure there is not even a drop.

Tonight is the big test, fingers crossed!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ricca509 said:


> UPDATE: I received the new sight glass and some threadlock (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012RCYAO) to secure the pressure gauge nut.
> 
> Put it all together yesterday and left overnight for the threadlock to cure.
> 
> ...


It's trick getting a waterproof seal on these elements you might want to try a liquid ptfe sealant as the pressure in the boiler will force any tiny leaks, available screwfix and tool station fora fiver


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

I was thinking the same: if I find out that it still leaks a bit I will disassemble the element and put some ptfe sealant in.

The new system is so much better, but I find the coffee that these older machines can make is usually better.


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Unfortunately no luck.

Although it did not leak from the heating element, a few other interesting things happened:

- As I was pouring water in the tank, no water was going through the sight glass, at all. I pushed the new sight glass all the way down to make more room for the nut, could this be the cause?

- When the machine was heating up, water started to come up the glass (pressure I guess), although it never got to the top where it should have

- As the pressure increased, water started to leak from the pressure gauge nut

- I manage to pull a shot, but although I used the same amount of coffee, the lever felt very spongy and had a very, very small output (about 10g)









Looks like the threadlock was not enough to seal the nut, I am now questioning my choice of getting the 11mm adapter nut: should have I opted for the 12mm?

The upper plug is about 11mm though









Lots of questions at the moment, maybe some of you guys went through this already and can advise.

Thanks


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Stunning









Love the white/red combination!

now get it to work









Here's a list of M thread specifications: https://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm Try measure the thread pitch as well. Maybe you have a mismatch there?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

you need the M12 adapter I believe - the threads were M12 up till mid 90's I think

to confirm this you can try fitting a M12 x 1.0 thread pitch bolt (not 1.5 or 1.75) pitch - some car wheel bolts are m12 x 1.0 pitch

Ebay can get you something m12 x 1.0 to try for about £3, I would also put an oring or nitrile washer between the adapter and the hole

cheers Jim


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Thanks both, I will be trying the M12 bolt.

I will also have a look at the sight glass as it may be too long and block the flow of water


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

So the addition of the adapter nut and length of the glass tube blocks the upper sight glass return: it causes a vacuum in the tube that prevents air from moving into the boiler until enough pressure is built up to push the air through with water.

As this did not happen with the old glass, it means this tube is slightly longer. I read somewhere that there's about 3-4mm difference between the old and the new oem replacement.

I'll shorten the tube and try again with the new 12mm adapter.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

ricca509 said:


> So the addition of the adapter nut and length of the glass tube blocks the upper sight glass return: it causes a vacuum in the tube that prevents air from moving into the boiler until enough pressure is built up to push the air through with water.
> 
> As this did not happen with the old glass, it means this tube is slightly longer. I read somewhere that there's about 3-4mm difference between the old and the new oem replacement.
> 
> I'll shorten the tube and try again with the new 12mm adapter.


Careful with that...

In Austria we have a saying that translates to something like "now that I've cut it off three times it's still too short"


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

No pressure


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

*Latest update: it works!*

I finally bought the 12mm adapter that is a lot shorter than the 11mm. This does not block the water flow and with a bit of threadlock there is no leak now: success!









Thanks everyone for your help!


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Although it sits close to the shoulder of the boiler, it doesn't actually touch it, as the image may suggest.


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## Benjijames28 (Mar 29, 2017)

Well done on the restoration, must have been fun for you.

These machines really are brilliant to look at.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Benjijames28 said:


> Well done on the restoration, must have been fun for you.
> 
> These machines really are brilliant to look at.


They're also brilliant to make coffee with 

I maybe wouldn't want to fiddle with mine each morning (given its age and condition, that'd be outrageous in its own right), but really enjoying the process for a relaxed afternoon or evening cup, every now and then. 

@ricca509 indeed nice work and setup!


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

Now on to making coffee with it! (although I briefly used it before installing the gauge and it was brilliant)


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## ThinkJunket (Oct 16, 2018)

just wondering, what is the warmup time of the La Pav on average, does it tell you when it is ready? (i have heard to listen for a hissing sound)


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ThinkJunket said:


> just wondering, what is the warmup time of the La Pav on average, does it tell you when it is ready? (i have heard to listen for a hissing sound)


If its a twin element then put it on II untill it just starts to hiss then switch to I - flush the group head to give it a quick clean and heat up, at which point it should be nice and hot, 5-7 mins from cold usually does it


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## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

ThinkJunket said:


> just wondering, what is the warmup time of the La Pav on average, does it tell you when it is ready? (i have heard to listen for a hissing sound)


My La Pav Pro (1.6lt/16 cup) with the water to the top of the sight glass and an ambient of 14C takes 10 to 11 minutes to reach operating temp. This of course includes the false pressure release time.


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## ThinkJunket (Oct 16, 2018)

jimbojohn55 said:


> If its a twin element then put it on II untill it just starts to hiss then switch to I - flush the group head to give it a quick clean and heat up, at which point it should be nice and hot, 5-7 mins from cold usually does it


ah how would I know if its a twin element or not? But definitely sounds like a good time to warmup for me! Have you measured what temperature it reaches at the point of the hiss?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ThinkJunket said:


> ah how would I know if its a twin element or not? But definitely sounds like a good time to warmup for me! Have you measured what temperature it reaches at the point of the hiss?


keep this bookmarked - will give you all the info you will need http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/lapavoni_ep_eng.htm

The temp of the water varies on a couple of things - if its a twin element or not, if the group is fully heated - in some ways the pav is more variable than most machines and the development of a routine, timing and understanding are required to get the best out of it.

any of the pavs can do the business but they require a certain amount of experience - its what makes them rewarding for many but frustrating for others

each one is a little different, with the pre 75 having what some to believe is the best group others disagree, all part of the fun!


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## ThinkJunket (Oct 16, 2018)

Thanks for the help! How long have you been using the La Pavoni for, and any reasons making you wanting to upgrade?


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

ThinkJunket said:


> ah how would I know if its a twin element or not? But definitely sounds like a good time to warmup for me! Have you measured what temperature it reaches at the point of the hiss?


The temperature I measured on my '74 is between 50 to 60 degC at the time of the hiss (at about 1bar of pressure). I normally then switch to 1 and leave it until it gets to 83-84 degC then pull the shot.

Time about 15' from when I turn it on to when I pull the shot.


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## ThinkJunket (Oct 16, 2018)

ricca509 said:


> The temperature I measured on my '74 is between 50 to 60 degC at the time of the hiss (at about 1bar of pressure). I normally then switch to 1 and leave it until it gets to 83-84 degC then pull the shot.
> 
> Time about 15' from when I turn it on to when I pull the shot.


What are you using to measure the temperature? Is it easy to measure?


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## ricca509 (Sep 25, 2017)

ThinkJunket said:


> What are you using to measure the temperature? Is it easy to measure?


I use one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Digital-LCD-Thermometer-Temperature-Sensor-Fridge-Freezer-Food-Turkey/351766872904 right behind the brew head, kept in place with a cable tie


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

ThinkJunket said:


> Thanks for the help! How long have you been using the La Pavoni for, and any reasons making you wanting to upgrade?


Since 2016, I've used everything from a 62 pav to a 97, the only reason to change is to try something different say with a spring like my current microcimbali, are the shots better? A little bit, but I'm going to sell it soon and try something else, having said this I keep a 97 pav as my fallback machine. The thing about pavs is they hold almost all of their value as they are all fully repairable and devoid of electronics to mess up.


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