# Replacement element on La Pavoni Pub 2v



## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Hi all.

So, managed to get a La Pavoni Pub 2v for a steal yesterday, and the claim is that the element needs renewing. I stripped the machine down yesterday afternoon, and was faced with this horror show of a bottom mount (yes, I'll be retapping that properly...). I took the element out and it actually looked in reasonable nick.

Before I order the renovation parts (new seals, screens, a few screws if I can get them) I have two questions - the Pavoni element is a six pole - is it wired right in the photo? Second - what's the best way to test the element to ensure it has gone before I splash £70 on a replacement?









Cheers!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

You will need test meter to check continuity and resistance. across the connections and down to earth.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

6 pole means 3 loops in the element.

Looks like only 2 loops are connected.

When the element is removed you'll be able to work out the connections to each loop, for testing & earth leakage.

When rewiring, the "brown" side of each loop is connected together & then to the brown cable. Ditto for the "blue" side of each loop.

NB If the element rating is greater then 3000w (13 amp) then the m/c will need to be hard-wired into a 20amp socket. (That's probably why only 2 loops have been connected...)


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

It's a 3000w element, but I'm reasonably convinced now it's only got two of the loops hooked up so it's running at 2000w.

I'll get the multimeter out and youtube the checks to see if anything comes back.

Thanks guys - much appreciated!


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

You were absolutely right - there were only two elements hooked up, and so I could even put it all back together and test it with a single 1000w element. Coffee Donkey are sorting me out with the spares (hopefully) but another issue has come to light - the plastic casing which is in two parts which the solenoid mounts to (i.e. the valve I assume!) is weeping steam and drips when it gets up to temperature. It's a bit cold for too much investigation (it's in the workshop currently) but I'm hoping I can replace the seal/gasket between the two halves! The solenoid itself has a flashing orange light on it too. Any ideas?

I've also removed all the flexible pipes and cleaned them - there was a myriad of horrors in there. It's pumping water through nicely now though. Citric acid arrived yesterday for cleaning too - all shaping up nicely. The only other issue I can see if the tiny led light on the right hand group which illuminates when on isn't working. Worse things happen at sea...


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Flashing orange light on solenoid ? A pic of this part would help....


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Sorry!


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

That's the flowmeter: Remove the black plastic connector; undo the 3 screws & remove the metal lid. Underneath is a rubber o-ring which has probaly been "pinched" on assembly, causing the water leak. Clean the o-ring, check that the plastic star wheel spins freely, refit the o-ring into its groove, carefully refit the lid & fit the 3 screws etc.

If the rubber o-ring is badly damaged, a new o-ring can be sourced easily (EBay: "gicar flowmeter o-ring").


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Thank you so much - job done and now awaiting the shed to defrost before firing it up for testing! Major kudos to you sir.


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Fired up last night and no weeping form the flowmeters - thanks to espressotechno!

Two final issues - one is the second group seal which refuses to come out and is holding on to the brass inner for dear life too - I think this may require group removal and a hammer.

Finally - the pressure release valve on top of the boiler is weeping quite badly when it gets to pressure/tempaerature, to the point where I got nervous and turned it all off. I have a video of it weeping drips spectacularly, but can't attach, so here's a photo. Is it just a matter of whipping the valve off and giving it a good clean? It's a though the internal pressure isn't quite closing it - if I press on it, it releases the pressure as expected...









In the meantime, the machine is full of citric acid mix giving everything a good clean over the next couple of days


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

So I've read some more on this, and this may be the vacuum breaker valve, right? I might just whip it off tonight and soak it in citric acid to see if that clears the issue, if there's gunk not allowing it to close fully when the pressure is up. My theory on this is that to release the pressure, I press down on the valve, so the valve should shut when the pressure is up and the valve is raised?


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

The rubber seal inside the anti-vac valve will be hard/split & needs replacing. Might be better to buy a new valve (industry standard).

To remove the old group seal:

* Acquire a narrow, fine bladed chisel (slightly narrower than the rubber seal)...or a v.sharp screwdriver.

*Isolate machine (water, electrics), tip machine on its back & squirt some WD40 onto the seal.

* Use the chisel/screwdriver & hammer to carefully remove 1 inch chunks of the seal at a time.


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Once again a huge thankyou! Tipping this monster on it's back wasn't an option, so off came the group head (eventually). The seal was like black rock...









Eventually, I started to get some grip by drilling some pilot holes into it with a wood drill (carefully!) and then pushing a screw in for some leverage. Inch by nervous inch it came out. Thirty minutes later...









And still the brass centre wouldn't come out. Some prying led to nothing, so I poured some strong citric acid round the edge and it's sitting in the laundry room hopefully freeing itself off. I'll keep you updated.

On to the valve which came off really easily and looking into it, it was absolutely chock full of horror. A shot glass full of citric acid came into play.









Thirty minutes later (just long enough to remove a stubborn group seal, by coincidence) and it came out bright and shinier. A good wash, some light rubbiing with some high grit wet and dry, and a lot of blue roll for the insides, I popped it all back together with some fresh ptfe and it came out looking like new!









Once I've got the group head sorted and all back together, I'll give it a test!


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

I thought I'd give everyone an update on this. Element now replaced, and all set up for dosing and testing last night. Produced some beautiful shots before the seal came popping out of the right hand group flowmeter :/

I'm now in a race to get hold of a replacement flowmeter (I've tried putting it all back together, but there's obviously an issue as it pops every time there's pressure build up) - part number 438020. I've dropped some emails around and have my fingers crossed - my wife wanted to use it for an event next Tuesday...

Despite the swearing and frustrations, when it was working it was brilliant to see and lovely shots


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Yes, it's been frustrating. However, after lots of swearing, adjustment and new seals, shower plates, electrical clean up and a new flowmeter on the right hand group. This. Using the superb Intrepid beans from St Martins. Yes, my tamping is rotten as I haven't got used to the tamp on the RR45 grinder I reconditioned... #coffeeporn

View attachment 35056


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Now all I have to do is work out why the bloody left hand group is tripping the consumer unit RCD when it gets hot :/ Any ideas? Cabling all looks perfect and I've routed everything away from any hot surfaces...


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## Majik (Jun 3, 2015)

Pretty sure I've sussed it. Short in the solenoid valve. I await payday to order a replacement...


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## David1010 (May 26, 2020)

Ho Majik.

Really enjoyed the article, with the progression through your rebuild of sorts. I've just bought the identical machine, working perfectly bar a continuously leaking group head( without the basket in place and not brewing). Just wondering if you encounter this problem ?

Thanks

David


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## Shedload (Jun 28, 2020)

Hi All,

I have an identical machine. I have a problem with the electronic dosing. I can't set the left hand group. No matter what I do, it just keeps flowing on all buttons. Is there a factory reset procedure for these machines?

Thanks

Eamonn


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