# Adding an inline filter



## SimonB

I'm about to have my kitchen redone and as I plan to eventually have a plumbed in machine it seems like a good time to prepare the plumbing for it.

I currently only have a tank machine so I'll need to be able to fill from a tap right now but while it slightly complicates things it won't hurt to have softened water for the kettle or food preparation.









Items needed:

Compression hoses

15mm to 3/8 (x2, inlet to shut off valve, tee to tap)

3/8 to 3/8 (x3, shut off valve to filter, filter to tee, tee to coffee machine)

Equal tee 3/8

Shut off valve 3/8

Any advice or thoughts?


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## El carajillo

All main pipe work can be run in standard 15 mm pipe clipped to units/wall. You can use standard 15 mm shut off valves with reducers and flexi pipes to connect to drinking tat and coffee machine. You should also have shut off /isolation valves between "T" and tap also between "T" and coffee machine required by water Regs.You should be able to service any appliance/ tap without turning off water to other Items.


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## GS11

you will need a prv after the shut off valve i.e.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-pressure-reducing-valve-with-gauge-15mm/69396


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## Daren

I'm about to undertake the same exercise - I'm considering one of these to let me know when to change the filter.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=350812096225

Could be worth planning in?


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## El carajillo

GS11 said:


> you will need a prv after the shut off valve i.e.
> 
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-pressure-reducing-valve-with-gauge-15mm/69396


Is the PRV for the filter or the coffee machine. Depending on which filter you buy/use what is the working pressure?

Having previously had a plumbed in filter i did not require a PRV.

You also need to check your incoming water pressure running not static.


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## SimonB

Daren said:


> I'm about to undertake the same exercise - I'm considering one of these to let me know when to change the filter.
> 
> http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=350812096225
> 
> Could be worth planning in?


Not a bad bit of kit but I have a cheap handheld TDS meter and as the tap will be part of the system I was planning on just checking the tap every few months. I suppose it's possible the tap could have enough build up to start throwing off the meter?

I went with the Brita C300 so even though I have quite hard water it should have enough capacity to make it through the year.


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## SimonB

Thanks for all the replies.

So taking all that on board:

prv http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-pressure-reducing-valve-with-gauge-15mm/69396

shut off http://www.screwfix.com/p/polyplumb-shut-off-valve-15mm/80519

compression hose http://www.screwfix.com/p/wras-hose-15mm-x-3-8in-x-300mm-x-10mm/71208

flexible pipe http://www.screwfix.com/p/wras-hose-15mm-x-15mm-x-300mm-x-10mm/37231

equal tee http://www.screwfix.com/p/equal-tee-15mm-pack-of-2/95632

Shut off valve 15mm x3 (inline before filter, tee to tap, tee to coffee machine)

Compression hose 15mm to 3/8 x3 (inlet shut off valve to filter, filter to tee, tee to espresso machine)

Flexible pipe 15mm x2 (shut off to prv, tee to tap)

Equal tee 15mm

So pretty much as the diagram shows just with a PRV after the first shut off valve

Do you think there will be any problems caused by mixing the stainless steel and brass fittings?

Should I just make everything after the shut off vale 3/8 fittings and just have a compression hose for the tap or does it not matter?


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## El carajillo

Should not be any problem with brass and stainless. What do you mean by "a compression hose"..Depending on the volume of water the filter will pass you could most likely use 3/8 pipe.

I presume you are going to use plastic piping and fittings. When working with copper pipe it is now usual to make the final connection to the tap etc with a flexible tail (flexible pipe connector) .This saves having to put bends and sets in the pipe to line up with the tap etc, it is also quicker.


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## SimonB

El carajillo said:


> Should not be any problem with brass and stainless. What do you mean by "a compression hose"..Depending on the volume of water the filter will pass you could most likely use 3/8 pipe.


They're listed under the compression hose section on Screwfix but I can't see a difference between it and the flexible hose (besides the fitting being a different size).



El carajillo said:


> I presume you are going to use plastic piping and fittings. When working with copper pipe it is now usual to make the final connection to the tap etc with a flexible tail (flexible pipe connector) .This saves having to put bends and sets in the pipe to line up with the tap etc, it is also quicker.


Only plastic part would have been the shut off valves (simply because I couldn't find any metal ones on screwfix and I need to place the order soon) but I have no intention to cut any metal pipes to fit this stuff, I'm 'fairly' confident it'll end up being plastic tubes or those stainless steel flexible hoses connecting everything from the inlet onward.


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## espressotechno

You may find 3/8" connectors / reducers difficult to source - most plumbers merchants don't stock 3/8 stuff. EBay may be your best bet....


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## El carajillo

Had a look at catalogue their description is misleading.It is a standard flexible pipe with "compression" fittings on the end, these are for 15 mm pipe and have an olive in the end which is compressed by the nut. As espressotechno said you will have difficulty finding the 15 mm to 3/8 adaptors. What is the fitting on the Cof/Mc pipe? male/female, also what are the connections on your filter? size ? male/female?

Try John Guest pipe fittings, also Softner supplies


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## SimonB

The main inlet is 15mm, the filter is 2x 3/8" male fittings, coffee machine is 3/8" female and the new tap will (presumably) be 15mm.

I'll see if my local plumbers has the bits I need, can double check it all connects correctly that way (I bloody hate plumbing) but I'm stuck indoors for the moment.


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## El carajillo

Just had a look at the Brita 300 tech info.Looks like the fittings to filter are 3/8" flat type/ similar to washing M/ch connections .Brit offer various hoses with varying end fittings.

How are you coming off your water supply? Do you have a spare washing machine offtake or are you going to cut and "T" off your main ?


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## Daren

El carajillo said:


> Is the PRV for the filter or the coffee machine. Depending on which filter you buy/use what is the working pressure?
> 
> Having previously had a plumbed in filter i did not require a PRV.
> 
> You also need to check your incoming water pressure running not static.


El carajillo - I assumed the PRV was fitted somewhere between the filter and the machine. It's main purpose being to reduce the pressure for when you pre-infuse using the e-61 head? Have I got this wrong???


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## El carajillo

The PRV would be to reduce the pressure in the line feeding the filter and M/ch should it be required. The pre infusion is part of the M/ch process not the line pressure.From what I recall the Brita filter has a working pressure of 6 bar (check on Brita tech spec). This is higher than you will receive from mains

Check in coffee M/CH SPEC to see what incoming pressure they recommend (if any)


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## SimonB

Max operating pressure for the Brita is 8.6 bar, I can't find a minimum quoted anywhere but the closest alternatives seem to want 2 bar.

I did eventually find the fittings I want, shut off valves seem to only give you speedfit connections and they're apparently called stop valves, or isolation valves. Did I mention I hate plumbing?


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## El carajillo

UPDATE PLUMBING IN ROCKET R 58 P R V REQUIREMENT YES/ NO

I have just checked the Rocket Spec It states the MAX inlet pressure for water supply is 5 BAR. You are highly unlikely to have a supply pressure close to this figure.


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## Daren

So your saying I don't need to bother with the PRV?

I like things in really simple terms.... I've just pulled the trigger on a Brita c300 filter and 0-70% head. I think I'm going to get an inline digital TDS metre that has an alarm to remind me when to change the cartridge. I just need the plumbing stuff now?


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## GS11

El carajillo said:


> UPDATE PLUMBING IN ROCKET R 58 P R V REQUIREMENT YES/ NO
> 
> I have just checked the Rocket Spec It states the MAX inlet pressure for water supply is 5 BAR. You are highly unlikely to have a supply pressure close to this figure.


El carajillio there are properties within a 10min drive from me on 7 - 8 bar mains pressure. It all depends where your property is in relation to the water tower/ reservoir that feeds you and wether your water company has fitted their own prv on the network (mainly installed to reduce network leakage)



Daren said:


> So your saying I don't need to bother with the PRV?


Have a read here may be prudent to fit one regards effect of mains pressure on espresso machine pumps.

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/water-pressure-regulator


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## Daren

Cheers Graham. I don't fancy having a shiny expensive brick in the kitchen instead of an espresso machine. I'll get one to be safe.


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## El carajillo

As I said earlier in the post "check water supply pressure", ask your local water company to come and check your static and running pressure ( F O C)

If your pressure is close to 5 bar I would fit a PRV, If it is only 2/3 bar I would not.

As it points out in the article if your pressure is low it is detrimental to fit a PRV as lnsufficient pressure causes cavitation/aeration which is not good.

It would have been useful if Graham had mentioned the article at the start of the thread.


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## SimonB

So one visit to the nearest plumber's merchant has given me this:









Isolation valve

Pressure Reduction Valve

Water Filter with 2x 3/8" male

2x 15mm to 1/2" + 2x 1/2" to 3/8 bush

Equal Tee

Isolation valve to tap

Isolation valve to coffee machine

15mm to 1/2" flexible hose

1/2" to 3/8 bush

3/8" hexagon nipple

I'm uncertain if I need the PRV but I'll check the water pressure using it and decide based on that.

This seems to all connect successfully, might have been able to get some more direct connections but I needed this quickly as the new plumbing/cupboards are going in this week. I have the sinking feeling the 50 CM hose won't be long enough but then I'll just need to add a 50/90 CM 1/2" to 1/2" hose and a 1/2" to 1/2" nipple.

Did I mention I hate plumbing?


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## El carajillo

Best of luck with your plumbing, if you get stuck PM me if you need advice.

Do not over tighten compression nuts,run them up by hand plus about 1 turn with spanner

On the "flexies" tighten the male first then hold the comp end while you tighten the nut (do NOT allow the hose to twist)

Do not bend the flexies too sharply and do not kink.

Slight "weeps" on comp fittings can be cured with a couple of turns of PTFE around the olive.


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## SimonB

Thanks for the advice, I'll update the thread as I proceed, if nothing else others can learn from my mistakes!


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## Daren

Simon - how did it go?


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## SimonB

Daren said:


> Simon - how did it go?


Ooops just found your question.

It went quite poorly, my kitchen was torn down but the replacement has been months coming because the left hand doesn't know what the right is doing. I've finally got the filter hooked up (I'll add pictures later for those curious) but I'm unsure if the filter takes enough out of the water to make it viable. On the bright side there's plenty of pressure so no concerns about bypassing the pump in the L1.

Under the new setup the water is around 300 PPM and at 0% bypass the Brita purity filter takes it down to around 150. I think I'm probably safe to hook it up (can't as yet because the kitchen work surfaces haven't been fitted yet (or even cut to size)) but I'd hoped the filter would be powerful enough to achieve 80 to 150 rather than the top end being the best case scenario.

I'd feel more comfortable if I knew what minerals were being passed through to give the 150 result but again I'm inclined to think it's safe to proceed (based on... my gut).


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## El carajillo

That sounds quite high to me, I would want to know what was in it before I used it in my coffee machine (whatever my gut said)


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## Daren

Simon - I'm using the c300 with similar high results









There is a taste improvement though


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## SimonB

El carajillo said:


> That sounds quite high to me, I would want to know what was in it before I used it in my coffee machine (whatever my gut said)


But but... wishful thinking makes it so. Is there any way to tell the exact contents of water? I'm guessing sending it off to a lab wouldn't be cheap.

If I can't use the filter then all that leaves is going back to bottled or looking at investing in a RO setup and remineralisation system, both options... suck.


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## SimonB

Daren said:


> Simon - I'm using the c300 with similar high results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a taste improvement though


I assumed there would be! If I could easily descale the L1 I'd just happily crack on but alas...


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## El carajillo

Contact local water authority they"might" run a test for you , worth asking !!


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## SimonB

Finally some good news, I decided to purchase a water test kit that's measuring for specific elements and the results were encouraging.

The kit is just a vial for the sample water and a small bottle of some reagent, you add a set amount of water to the vial then add a drop of the reagent to the sample water waiting for the correct colour change to occur, each drop represents (in this case) 20 ppm.

Unfiltered: 14 drops = 280 PPM

Filtered: 2 drops = 40 PPM

I would normally ignore the results from the filter as they seemed to good to be true but the unfiltered results roughly match what I get using the electronic TDS meter (which measures everything) so that shows the filter is doing a good job of removing certain elements. I'd feel a little more comfortable if I knew exactly what this reagent was reacting to, anyone know?

Need to do a repair on the wall and the kitchen work top is getting replaced so I can't plumb it in just yet but I don't think I need to worry about the hardness of the water now.


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## Daren

@SimonB - that is encouraging. Can you give me a link to the testing kit you used please as I'd like to run the same test (assuming it tests for the bad bits - scale producing stuff)


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## MrShades

But you're still seeing around 150 on an electronic TDS meter for the C300 filtered? (I'm in Wiltshire, Thames Water = about 250 unfiltered).

I've got a Purity 0-70 head, and am just looking for a C300 filter at the moment (and then all of the pipes and fittings, as per your purchase) - but if it doesn't drop it lower than 150 then I think I'll stick with Ashbeck (current bottle is 53 I think) and not chop holes in my worksurfaces / cupboards.

Shades


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## SimonB

Daren said:


> @SimonB - that is encouraging. Can you give me a link to the testing kit you used please as I'd like to run the same test (assuming it tests for the bad bits - scale producing stuff)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181161542219

I haven't found anywhere saying specifically what these kits react to, I'm guessing it's calcium as that's the main cause of limescale (as I understand it, feel free to jump in if I'm talking out of my rear).


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## SimonB

MrShades said:


> But you're still seeing around 150 on an electronic TDS meter for the C300 filtered? (I'm in Wiltshire, Thames Water = about 250 unfiltered).
> 
> I've got a Purity 0-70 head, and am just looking for a C300 filter at the moment (and then all of the pipes and fittings, as per your purchase) - but if it doesn't drop it lower than 150 then I think I'll stick with Ashbeck (current bottle is 53 I think) and not chop holes in my worksurfaces / cupboards.


Yes just so, yours appears slightly lower so I'd guess you'd similar but slightly lower numbers. This is with the 0-70 head set to no bypass.

Does it truly matter what the TDS value is as long as we've removed the elements that are harmful? I can't see it being a problem and wouldn't it improve the taste up to a point?


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## Daren

SimonB said:


> Does it truly matter what the TDS value is as long as we've removed the elements


I've been searching for an answer to that exact question. I'm also running a c300 filter with 0-70% bypass valve set to 0. Still worrying high TDS results after filtration.

If I could have some reassurance the filter is removing the scale it would set my mind to rest - so if anyone has a tried and tested way of measuring for damaging scale producing particles then I'd love to know.


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## El carajillo

Unfortunately non of the filter manufacturers are keen to tell you what their filter /system does remove ,or to what degree.

If the TDS is still high it could still be calcium that is left in the water, without water analysis you will not know what is or is not in the water.


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## MrShades

Weigh a saucepan accurately - put a litre of water in it - boil it dry.

Then weigh saucepan accurately again...


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## Daren

MrShades said:


> Weigh a saucepan accurately - put a litre of water in it - boil it dry.
> 
> Then weigh saucepan accurately again...


Yep - I follow that once the water is boiled away the saucepan will be left with the solids, but what measurement will that show? How do I tell what's good or bad?


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## MrShades

TDS - total dissolved solids. Anything that is left as a solid in the pan is essentially 'scale' no matter what it's made from.

"Dry Residue" or "Total dry solids" is what's often quoted for mineral water - measured (like hardness) as mg of solid residue per litre of water.


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## Daren

Ah - got it now. Cheers MrShades. Now the hunt for super accurate scales....


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## MrShades

It won't be easy at all - bear in mind the fact that you'll be looking at around 50-200mg/l of dry residue - which is 0.05g-0.2g


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## Daren

Bugger. Any other suggestions? Surely there must be a simple off the shelf testing kit?


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## MrShades

Ummmmm... Cheap electronic TDS meter from eBay? Works well for me!

And hence we go round in circles again..., ;-)


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## SimonB

MrShades said:


> TDS - total dissolved solids. Anything that is left as a solid in the pan is essentially 'scale' no matter what it's made from.
> 
> "Dry Residue" or "Total dry solids" is what's often quoted for mineral water - measured (like hardness) as mg of solid residue per litre of water.


That doesn't sound correct, if it were what would be the point of using an ion exchange resin?

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/total-dissolved-solids-tds


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## MrShades

It is correct, except in the case you mention - where water is softened through ion exchange (calcium for sodium). The sodium would still form part of the dry residue if it were boiled dry, but doesn't come out of solution more easily - like calcium will, to form scale


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## Daren

I've got one (TDs meter)- but as Simon says - I'm not convinced this only shows the bad scale producing stuff. I agree a high reading could be indicative of high scale content - but not necessarily.


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## SimonB

MrShades said:


> It is correct, except in the case you mention - where water is softened through ion exchange (calcium for sodium). The sodium would still form part of the dry residue if it were boiled dry, but doesn't come out of solution more easily - like calcium will, to form scale


I'm not following, if sodium is OK that would mean not every dissolved solid can cause limescale which is my main concern. I have several ways of measuring TDS but beyond the basic more is worse I'm uncertain how safe the water is.

If some elements are safe (like sodium) then shouldn't we be able to establish which elements are harmful beyond calcium and magnesium? If we can do that I'm guessing we can find reagents to test in the same way as the kit I've already written about?


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## MrShades

Scale producing solids are typically solids that are quite difficult to dissolve in water - and hence come out of the solution more easily (especially when the water is heated). Sodium, on the other hand, dissolves MUCH more easily and hence stays in solution much better/longer.

As I said, you can get ALL dissolved solids out of solution by boiling dry - and a TDS meter will make a good estimation of the total dissolved solids.

If the Brita filters use ion exchange and 'swap' sodium in and calcium/magnesium out then there's still solids there - just not scale forming ones.

It could well be that the water hardness tests are specifically reacting with only calcium/magnesium and not sodium - which would explain it.


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## SimonB

MrShades said:


> It could well be that the water hardness tests are specifically reacting with only calcium/magnesium and not sodium - which would explain it.


I think that's the case, the Brita filter documentation states:

"Depending on the by-pass setting, the ﬂow process is used for the selective removal of calcium and magnesium ions as well as heavy metals ions, such as lead and copper.

In addition to cloudiness and organic pollutants, the ﬁlter material also reduces the level of substances impairing smell and taste, such as chlorine residues in the ﬁltrate and in the by-pass water."

Which would explain why the water test kit returns such good results from water which still contains relatively high TDS.

I also tested some Ashbeck and it ended up turning blue at 2 drops just like the filtered water.


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## kolorado

I've been following this thread closely. Since I'm redecorating my kitchen I've decided to plumb in my Rocket R58. Thanks to jeebsy who shared the ThamesWater postcode lookup in the 'which water' thread: http://www.thameswater.co.uk/your-account/7481.htm#

My report from Thames Water says:


mgl CaCO3 (ppm)Degrees ClarkeDegrees German(DH)Degrees FrenchDetergent ratingFluoride(ppm)SOUTH LAMBETH269.518.86515.09226.95HARD0.146



...which I take to mean it will fur up a boiler faster than a clown selling candy floss at a funfair. I decided I'd better have a filter. I have struggled with choosing the best inline filter, and have decided to go for the the Brita c300 filter with 0-70 bypass. I'd looked at Everpure Claris and Bestmax but from what I've read in this and other forums it seems that all of them still give users high TDS readings...I guess I'll just hope for the best and assume I'll still need to descale about once a year. Based on what everyone has said, here's my plan:









I've also opted for a PRV after the filter based on the comments of others on here. I don't think I'll put an inline TDS metre in, as I've bought a cheap 'pen' style one that I'll use to monitor the water from time to time. I'll put a post up of the system once I have it in place.


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## SimonB

Unfortunately you'll be in the same boat as me (i.e. high TDS despite the filter) but hopefully my assumptions are correct and it won't scale badly in either case.

If you're only having one shut off valve you should probably put it before the filter, that way you can change anything about your coffee loop easily.

Regarding checking the TDS, I had planned to have the kitchen tap after the filter but the installation didn't go that way and if you test the water after it's come through the espresso machine your results may not be accurate so I'd suggest you make use of the drain pipe on the Brita filter head. I assume (all these assumptions, tsk tsk...) it should represent the filtered water well enough but I can't see any other option that's as easy besides adding an outlet or a meter directly to the loop which is a waste most of the time.


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## Daren

@kolorado - my set up looks pretty much the same as your diagram except I've come off the sink cold water tap supply as it was easier to get to (and the fittings were cheaper). I've gone over overboard with my isolation valves having 3 in total - one before the filter, one after the filter and one after the prv (that way I can disconnect my machine easily should I need to... I'm thinking of the yearly descale) It all went together simply with JG speed fit. When you mount your prv you need to make sure it's horizontal.

Nice pic of the Rocket btw


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## charris

What about an RO filter like the one from 3M? It seems they were designed for the coffee and beverage industries but they are hugely expensive. Water hardness is something I have to tackle also and I am not sure from everything I have read that an inline filter would bring the TDS, PH, and all the other chemical values to the the optimum levels required for coffee.

This is a line to the 3M RO from a supplier:

http://www.coffeehit.co.uk/cleaning-filtration/water-filtration

Official site of the 3M RO filter:

http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/3M_Purification/FiltrationSolutions/Product/FeaturedProducts/?PC_Z7_RJH9U5230OECC0I1DPVOSS0OD4000000_assetId=1319212614668

This company seems to know a lot about filters and they have a section and brochures on coffee:

http://www.watercare.co.uk/pages/water_filters/

Promotion for the filter in an industry site:

http://www.caffeculture.com/2012/12/07/3ms-secret-great-tasting-coffee-time/

I think I have much more information and links on this subject but my study is very far from conclusive. If anybody is interested I can post links to more info. I also hoe that through my research I do not come to the conclusion that i need a 1.5k filter like the 3M above in order to get good water for coffee...

P.S. Worst of all we do not have Volvic here so I really have to research the inline filters world and understand exactly their differences and purposes. I think also analyzing the tab water is very important because it not only about water TDS that we have to worry about.


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## Daren

SimonB said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181161542219
> 
> I haven't found anywhere saying specifically what these kits react to, I'm guessing it's calcium as that's the main cause of limescale (as I understand it, feel free to jump in if I'm talking out of my rear).


I bought the same kit - It arrived today. First test complete using water from the hot tap on the Giotto (then left to cool). 9 drops indicating 180 ppm.

I'll try another test later using a sample from the bypass valve as I'm not sure if the water from the Giotto's tap is effecting the result.


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## Daren

Test 2 complete. Water from the bypass tube - 7 drops = 140ppm

Test 3 complete. Water direct from tap - 16 drops = 320ppm

For reference - I also tested the same water sample from test 3 using a cheapo tds meter which gave a reading of 420ppm


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## kolorado

Cheers Daren, I'm not surprised if it looks like a familiar setup...I'd heavily cribbed from yours and SimonB's previous posts on this thread. I have a cupboard underneath the machine that will hopefully fit the c300 and the PRV. Will make sure the PRV is horizontal...hadn't taken that into consideration but shouldn't be a problem. The filter will be oriented vertically. I have a shut off before the filter and one after the PRV, which should hopefully be enough for removing the line when descaling. I'll probably be looking for advice in about 12 months time for tips on how to descale!


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## kolorado

I haven't looked very closely at the filter head yet, but I was hoping the same thing, that I might detach or feed off somewhere after the filter and take a sample every 90 days or so. Though it might turn out to be a high reading anyway...in which case I might just consider the filter a piece of mind investment that I've done the best I could to clear as much crap as possible out of the dubious London water before I feed it to my precious machine.


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## Flibster

Taking a lot of notes now. We've put an offer in on a house that has a lovely utility room that I will be taking over.









Going to add a sink with hot and cold taps and a filtered water tap and then have the option to plumb in an espresso machine in the future.

It also appears that the water in the area is pretty much identical to kolorados water report. So it's pretty crappy.

Other half also wants a filtered water tap in the kitchen, but I think that'll have it's own cartridge as it's really a touch too far to run off the same cartridge - so a dinky one for her and probably a stupidly large one in the playroom.


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## kolorado

Hello, I (well, my R58) has been happily plumbed in for about 2 months now. I can't believe how much I appreciate not having to refill the water chamber or the drip tray.

Apparently, the whole procedure was considerably more work than the builders had anticipated, and I'm glad I never even considered taking the job on as a DIY, with my limited skills. I wasn't expecting the size of the Brita to take up quite so much room, it meant the builders had to cut away the back part of one of the runners for the Ikea kitchen full-height drawer. There was some early leaking between filter and the PRV, which required a bit of tightening by the builders, but seems alright now.

My only early problem was with the waste tubing provided by Rocket. It was far too soft and flexible not to crimp up when making a 90 degree turn from the back of the machine through the hole in the work surface, especially as soon as it was warmed up by the water coming through. My fix for this was a small length of that 'cable tidy' stuff that zips around all the wires coming from your computer. That fit very nicely around the part of the tubing passing through the work surface and keeps it open and the waste flowing through without problems. I also occasionally have water drip through the overflow on the drip tray if a lot of water comes through at once. I've put a small saucer underneath to catch any drops, I'm hoping that it's not so much of a problem now that the waste tubing is flowing better. I tried to get a picture showing what I'd done with the tubing, along with a few pics of my setup!


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## Mouse

I did mine a while ago - It's a must if your kitchen layout, machine and budget allows as far as I'm concerned.

It looks like a nice tidy install


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## Daren

How do you change the filter Kolorado? From the picture it looks impossible without disconnecting everything? (might just be the camera angle?)


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## kolorado

I haven't tried to remove it yet, but it will be tight! There's a little bit of space and it's hinged at the top so I think I can just angle it out.


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## SimonB

Been meaning to update this for a while, I'm the king of procrastination...


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## JaymeeH

Sorry to drag up an old thread but just to say this has been very useful as I'm about to face this myself.

Is everyone still happy with their setup? Any sign of scale yet?


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## JaymeeH

Considering the additional expense I never accounted for I am looking to scrimp a little, at least for now. Would anyone advise me not to use of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/high-performance-water-filter-cartridge/59851 and a supply my own push-fit fittings to plumb it in? I'm thinking about having this solution for the next 9 months or so and then upgrade later.

Or should I be willing to spend the money to get an Everpure for about £65?

Head: http://www.omniwash.co.uk/warewashing/product/Everpure-QL3B-Filter-Head/899/32/

Cartridge (2CB5-S): https://www.cattermoleelectrical.co.uk/products/type/everpure-commercial-water-filter-cartridges-spare-parts

To be honest I am starting to lose my mind on this! None of these products actually want to tell you the technology they use or what fittings you need. It seems unnecessarily opaque, like they don't want people to DIY it.

I am in a pretty damn hard water in north east london so I really need to keep the scale at bay.


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## Xpenno

JaymeeH said:


> Considering the additional expense I never accounted for I am looking to scrimp a little, at least for now. Would anyone advise me not to use of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/high-performance-water-filter-cartridge/59851 and a supply my own push-fit fittings to plumb it in? I'm thinking about having this solution for the next 9 months or so and then upgrade later.
> 
> Or should I be willing to spend the money to get an Everpure for about £65?
> 
> Head: http://www.omniwash.co.uk/warewashing/product/Everpure-QL3B-Filter-Head/899/32/
> 
> Cartridge (2CB5-S): https://www.cattermoleelectrical.co.uk/products/type/everpure-commercial-water-filter-cartridges-spare-parts
> 
> To be honest I am starting to lose my mind on this! None of these products actually want to tell you the technology they use or what fittings you need. It seems unnecessarily opaque, like they don't want people to DIY it.
> 
> I am in a pretty damn hard water in north east london so I really need to keep the scale at bay.


Hi Jamie,

do you have your water specs from the local water board?

My guess is that in London you are going to need to remove a load of Calcium and Bicarbonates to avoid scaling. If you go with a cheap solution then you run the following risks

1. It doesn't remove enough mineral content to prevent scale

2. You may need to replace it more regularly (hence it will cost the same as a more expensive filter in the long run)

3. You may not have any flexibility to alter the amount of mineral removed

Many shops in London use RO and re-mineralisation as the water is very hard to get back down to spec but you are looking at £150 for a basic setup and a load of space under the sink!

Something like the BWT Bestmax is a great cartridge but they are not cheap! I spoke to BWT directly and they sent me a free filter head which saved me a fair few £. The filters are still £150 though!

It's a tough one as descaling is such a pain that I would spend the extra and make sure the water is good going into the machine and try to avoid it all together.

If you get your water specs then we can see what they tell us.

Cheers

Spence


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## JaymeeH

Thanks for you reply.

Ouch. Those prices are not what I was hoping (surprise surprise.) This bloody Espresso game is bloody expensive! It was all so simple a cheap with my aeropress. I have the report for my postcode from the Thames Water website. Seems pretty detailed. LINK The water is basically hard as nails. Costs a fortune in shampoo







and we have to use filtered water in the kettle and still de-scale.

Has anyone else had success with Everpure? They specifically list a coffee filter: EV9272-00 I can find the head (not adjustable) and cartridge for about £80.

Perhaps I'd do better with a Brita C500 or C300 with an adjustable head?


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## crafty

We use an XL Everpure setup in a commercial environment and have been pleased with it so far, lasts a long time before the hardness starts to creep up / resin exhausted. I would imagine it could last 18 months in domestic use but the water should be tested periodically with a Hach 5B Titration kit.

I use a DIY set-up at home to save cost - Atlas Filtri Sanic dual 10" housing with refillable resin cartridge in one side filled with Purolite PFC100E resin and a 5u Activated carbon block filter in the other, works very well and lasts about a year before the resin needs to be regenerated.


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## JaymeeH

Thank you so much for your reply. I'm looking at your home solution now. Can't see a UK stockist for Atlas Filtri yet as their website isn't great. Will get some proper research time later.

J


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## crafty

JaymeeH said:


> Thank you so much for your reply. I'm looking at your home solution now. Can't see a UK stockist for Atlas Filtri yet as their website isn't great. Will get some proper research time later.
> 
> J


Any 10" housings will do; I chose the Atlas ones because they make twin and triple cartridge set-up which are neater than joining singles. Also the clear ones are available in a Sanic version so they suppress bacterial growth which can be a problem with normal clear housings exposed to daylight (UV).

I ended up having to buy a 25kg bag of Purolite to fill the cartridge but the resin can be regenerated for 10+ years, the resin can be used in any water softener so you can use in a whole house setup or dishwasher etc.

Also some low cost manual regen water softener housings available from DVA, DVA 08 etc, you could use one of these with a 5micron carbon block after it, I believe they come with resin. Domestic espresso machine flow rates with this unit would probably require one salt regen per year plus a new carbon filter so £10 P/A plus some time.

The Claris does have an integral bypass valve in the head which allows you to set the amount of bypass which is handy of your water is not that hard. The Claris is the neater and easier solution but £££

Hope that helps


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## JaymeeH

Thanks again for your advice. In the end I went for a Brita Purity Quell C300 with the 0-70% bypass head. Did a couple of low ball offers that got accepted so paid £72 delivered for both.

I needed to keep up front costs down so the 25Kg was just not for me. I'm sure others will find your advice useful though.

Now I've just got to fit it all. Feeling pretty confident though. Let's see if that lasts!


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## truegrace

Probably going to go for the same, pr the bet bestmax, just need to get off my bum and order bits!


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## truegrace

So I now have a Brita C300 (and currently a 30% bypass head, gonna test it before I buy a 0-70%) but just wondering about set up.

As I have a spare 'washing machine' connector under the sink I am going to use that as supply.

Now my question is do I need to put a prv in after the filter, as that seems to be what most people are doing?

I purely ask as I think that filter to machine is 3/8 fittings both ends, therefore a straight pipe with no need for for additional connectors would work best (thinking less chance of a leak)

Coming from the washing machine connector I would just need to go 3/4 BSP to 15mm converter ----- 15mm prv ----- shutoff valve ------- 15mm to 3/8 converter --------- filter -----------Rocket?


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## truegrace

As I'm nearing starting the plumb in I though I had better ask.

Do I have to use copper pipe for some of the connections?I was hoping I could do it all with hoses and reducers but looking at the few pics on here some copper has been used as well for some bits.any ideas?


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## El carajillo

You do not have to use copper pipe, depending on the length you need you can use just hose or with plastic pipe for longer runs. Any hoses you use need to be suitable for your mains water supply pressure. Do not bend hoses/ pipework too tightly, allow smooth curves. Clip long pipes out of the way to prevent damage when "pushing" items into cupboards.


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## truegrace

The R58 is only about 1m from the sink, so the hose provided with it reaches, just the connectors don't match so would need a reducer (and don't know what size thread is on the r58) and a few connector's to add a prv as using a spare 3/4 washing machine tap.


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## El carajillo

I think the machine / hose is 3/8 BSP. Look up John Guest pipe fittings, I think you will find everything you need there .


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## truegrace

I thought it was 3/8, and also thought the brita filter head was 3/8. As you can see from the pic there was also a adaptor with the hose which does match the size of the filter, but need a male to female, just don't know the size I need, will head to a local plumbing place with the bits I think and get them to match bits up


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## El carajillo

That looks like a 3/8" to 1/4" nipple, I think you will struggle to find a 3/8 female to 1/4 male at most plumbers merchants, the small sizes are more often used on gas to small appliances.

Try the "BRITA" site as they have various adapters , also try water filter supplies. You could also try local air / hydraulic suppliers.

As a last resort go to local plumbing merchant with components and ask if they can make it up with assorted fittings (usually quite helpful, BUT go when it is quiet not at busy times )


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## truegrace

Thanks dude, knew it wouldn't be as straight forward as it could of been!


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