# Used Pre-millenium Europiccola advice



## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Just bought a Pre-millenium Europiccola on eBay. It looks in good condition from the photos, and I suspect it will be one that's languished unused as the owners found operation a faff. Until I get it delivered, I won't be able to date it properly and thus start working out how to use it properly.

Any advice on what I should be checking for before I get it up and running? What would you consider to be essential maintenance to carry out before using the machine? I would rate my mechanical ability as adequate, but would prefer not to do a full strip down and rebuild if it's not normally required.

Am planning on some sort of temperature monitoring at the group, as from what I've read here and elsewhere this is likely to be key. What is everyone else using? Are the strip thermometers any good? A pipe thermometer would look nicer but not sure of accuracy.

This is my first lever machine so expecting a big learning curve


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

Hi Richard

What I do is make sure they are safe electrically,remove the safety valve,check the ball and spring and then reassemble. Then half fill them with water and bring them up to temperature. Assuming this one has the twin

elements, I start on full power and later check the lower power element maintains the temperature. For me the elements are the most important and I would always strip it down completely and replace all the seals.The

hardest part is removing the element if screw on and also removing the boiler from the base. However having said that once the unit is up to temperature leaks will be detected from the top of the piston and elsewhere.

As for the group temperature I use the stick on colour change strips. They may not be very accurate, however I think they are relatively precise. As long as they show the same temperature each time and that results in

a good draw, that's what matters. This may read 105 degrees on the strip, in reality that may be 95 degrees, it doesn't matter, as long as the strip is capable of reproducing the result.

Hopefully its not like this


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. It has a single switch and a rubber cover over this, so am thinking it's 93-97? Also came with the auto cappucinno

Thankfully, it doesn't look like your pic above, though there is a decent amount of scale on the element so I will sort that out before using in anger. The shower screen looks to have detached itself in transit, so I'll need to fix that first.


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

Switch like this?








If so it's 90 - 95. far to modern for me, I only restore units from before 1977.

The one above turned out like this


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Yes, the switch is like your picture. It must be really satisfying to take a totally neglected machine and restore it to full glory.


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Descaled now and started looking it over. Odd. Boiler is incorrectly aligned by about 10 degrees. Describing my mechanical ability as adequate now appears optimistic







How did I fail to notice that?

Heats up ok, but leaks from the steam tube T to Boiler junction. This does rock slightly, so hopefully can be tightened up to fix the issue. I read that this doesn't have a seal, correct? Does not appear to leak from the group though.


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

The alignment issue is a common problem is due to the boiler to base flange loosening. Tightening this properly requires a special tool, however if you remove the rubber base you will see the flange ( brass in you case)

tucked in below the element base cover. It is possible to tighten this with a mallet and preferable a suitable bit of wooden dowel.If you empty the boiler then turn it upside down and hold it between you knees while sitting,it should be possible

to adjust the boiler position to get it square to the base, then using the mallet and dowel tighten the flange.If this doesn't work the two gaskets may need replacing, a bigger job.

Assuming you do get it tight, it will help a great deal if in future when you are fitting the portafilter counter act that turning action by putting similar force on the leaver, this will greatly reduce the tendency of the boiler to move.

The steam wand just need tightening a little

Good Luck


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks for the advice. I've aligned it again as it's just loose enough to move. As you say it would be best to tighten fully. Seller has offered to pay for a repair if not too expensive, hopefully I can fix myself.

What do you use to tighten the steam valve nut inside the boiler? Have tried a 16mm wrench but it won't get enough purchase. Chap in our workshop ground me down some adjustable pliers but still no dice. Will have to buy a set of adjustable offset pliers and see if that works.

I've also been given some pipe jointing compound to see if that will seal it. To be fair, I haven't taken the nut off to see if the washer is missing completely. That will be next. It does seem odd that the steam tube is reasonably tight yet still leaking. Machine is heating up for approx. 4 mins before water leaks from this position.


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Disassembled further. The boiler nut is cracked through,plus there was a decent amount of scale between the nut and the washer. With a new nut and some sealing compound I might finally make progress. Thank god I still have a working coffee machine!


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

Richard Penny said:


> Thanks for the advice. I've aligned it again as it's just loose enough to move. As you say it would be best to tighten fully. Seller has offered to pay for a repair if not too expensive, hopefully I can fix myself.What do you use to tighten the steam valve nut inside the boiler? Have tried a 16mm wrench but it won't get enough purchase. Chap in our workshop ground me down some adjustable pliers but still no dice. Will have to buy a set of adjustable offset pliers and see if that works.I've also been given some pipe jointing compound to see if that will seal it. To be fair, I haven't taken the nut off to see if the washer is missing completely. That will be next. It does seem odd that the steam tube is reasonably tight yet still leaking. Machine is heating up for approx. 4 mins before water leaks from this position.


For securing that nut you have to create a spanner like this,






16mm or 5/8 imperialRegards


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## Orangertange (Jul 4, 2013)

tr6greig said:


> Switch like this?
> View attachment 10265
> 
> 
> ...


 Nice job on the pf


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Got the replacement nut in place and it's sealed better, though not perfect. Enjoying the steep learning curve









Spotted a brown base Europiccola on eBay that might interest tr6greig....


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

Stop it, I can't resist, must be strong.


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## mathof (Mar 24, 2012)

tr6greig said:


> For securing that nut you have to create a spanner like this,
> View attachment 10361
> 16mm or 5/8 imperialRegards


Did you make that spanner by bending a straight one, or can you buy them like that?


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## tr6greig (Oct 23, 2014)

This is a photo taken from a website, I did make one from a straight spanner, just by trial and error.


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## "coffee 4/1" (Sep 1, 2014)

richard,if you haven't, have a look at youtube orphanespresso, europiccola rebuild part 1 & 2, to remove or tighten the flange nut i used a modified immersion heater box spanner, if this helps good luck.


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