# Gaggia Classic prob.



## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi chaps & chapesses.

Ive just replaced my pump easily enough on my Classic, which failed I think after I ran too much water thru i doing a puly general descale.

So waiting for my pump, i did a strip down & descale of the boiler took off opv/ solonoid renewed their silicone rings. Boiler fairly new/ replaced only about 7 years ago ( & was working fine). I noticed the gasket o-ring was a bit flattened, so put new one in.

Putting all carefully back together, the boiler's leaking Im fairly sure from the group head/ boiler/ o- ring gasket junction. Urgh. If it aint broke don't fix it etc etc. I noticed taking off the group head .. some white calcification & pitting of the boiler (a bit of a dip, in a circle in the alu body, where the gasket had been). Then putting together again, new o-ring in place, I didn't get too much o-ring " cushion" feel bolting them carefully together ( i got a significant cushion of a good few mm's i recall, when i put new boiler in 7 years ago).

So Im fairly sure, its this pitting/ corrosion in the aluminium boiler, at the o- ring, which is causing this insufficient join.

If I could, in theory that is, skim 2mm off the boiler bottom, I could negate this pitting.. & the o-ring produced a nice join again.

But is this feasable? Anyone heard of doing something akin to this, for a similar boiler leak problem? Or any other ideas anyone?

Thanks for reading, SC


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Clean the face by rubbing it on some wet and dry abrasive paper on a flat surface

The pitting is normal and doesn't need to be perfect to seal correctly but it feels a lot better to do it 😀

If you search for some of the Classics refurbished on this forum you'll find loads of examples and pictures

@Mulligrub did a good one I remember and @ratty and @Gilly has some great photos on eBay of refurbed products


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Some of us use a dremel brass wire brush initially to get rid of most of the scale and then finish off with wet and dry paper on a flat surface. Start off with coarser grades and working down to very fine.

As Uncletits said it doesn't have to be perfect, the gasket does the sealing job. Silicone gaskets are better than the original black rubber? material.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Do as @Uncletits said, wet and dry paper on a very flat surface, use a fef spots of dish liquid in water as lubricant.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Uncletits said:


> Clean the face by rubbing it on some wet and dry abrasive paper on a flat surface
> 
> The pitting is normal and doesn't need to be perfect to seal correctly but it feels a lot better to do it 😀
> 
> ...


 Hi there ulceritis,

what grade of wet n dry is 'medium/ to a bit coarse' ? Its damn expensive stuff, so I just want to buy one sheet, but needs to have some chutzpa.

Thanks for the info/ help. sC


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

> 1 hour ago, ~ Sea Chief ~ said:


 £3 for 5 sheets so not too expensive

I bought 400, 180 and 80 grit


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

It doesn't have to be wet & dry sheets, a dry-only abrasive is fine but may clog more than a wet sand. The smoothness of the boiler face doesn't really mater.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

AndyDClements said:


> It doesn't have to be wet & dry sheets, a dry-only abrasive is fine but may clog more than a wet sand. The smoothness of the boiler face doesn't really mater.





Uncletits said:


> £3 for 5 sheets so not too expensive
> 
> I bought 400, 180 and 80 grit


 Thats true.. but, Ive bought a fairly abrasive 400 grit & a stiff eire brush, done the boiler surface as best I can- but no change. The water is almost pouring out, definitely from the junction of group head & boiler. Its collecting in the back lower area especially.

I can only think its as I mentioned 1 st up, the slight pitting around the boiler o ring position, & the o ring itself doesn't seem 'fat' enough.

i just cant understand it. The boiler is in decent condition, the group head area joining it, is very good.

thanks. sC


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

Check that the bolts secure the group head to the boiler aren't bottoming-out and reaching the end of the hole before they clamp the two surfaces together. If you look really closely at the end of the bolts you may see evidence if they're bottoming-out, or failing that put them into just the group head and screw them in as far as they will go with only light force, then check the remaining gap between bolt head and face of GH is less than the thickness of that part of boiler.

400 paper should be fine enough to get a good seal against, are all of the pits gone from the area where the seal mates to?

Is the seal undamaged? It should be slightly proud of the surface when placed in the groove of the GH.

Final thought, are you really sure it's not leaking somewhere else? A little mark here & there with a water-based marker pen can help locate a leak.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

AndyDClements said:


> Final thought, are you really sure it's not leaking somewhere else? A little mark here & there with a water-based marker pen can help locate a leak.


 Check OPV and solenoid valve O rings are not leaking. I've forgotten to even put them back in, in the past!


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

ratty said:


> Check OPV and solenoid valve O rings are not leaking. I've forgotten to even put them back in, in the past!


 No They're back/ new ones. I can see where its coming from, very specifically the front of the boiler, plus other areas around the join. Steam is even coming up from the join too, when the steam is chosen.. nothing obviously from the wand.

Im told by the chap who sold the 7x ring kits, ebay, that it sounds like pitting on the boiler face.. which is what I do see ( & suspected in my OP too ) this oitting is a good 2mm in spots, so one good go with wet & dry hasn't got a chance of making headway on these, even 400 grit.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

AndyDClements said:


> Check that the bolts secure the group head to the boiler aren't bottoming-out and reaching the end of the hole before they clamp the two surfaces together. If you look really closely at the end of the bolts you may see evidence if they're bottoming-out, or failing that put them into just the group head and screw them in as far as they will go with only light force, then check the remaining gap between bolt head and face of GH is less than the thickness of that part of boiler.
> 
> 400 paper should be fine enough to get a good seal against, are all of the pits gone from the area where the seal mates to?
> 
> ...


 I see what you mean, thanks for this. But as the boiler was fine before, with these bolts, surely I can conclude they aren't bottoming out/ fine. I will do what you say put them in the group head/ measure them etc.

The seal, if you mean the o ring, its a new one. It is slightly proud.. but i know before when i put this new replacement boiler in 7 yrs ago, that the o ring ive just removed, seemed to be bigger/ or the group head groove less depth ( cant be ), &/ or.. the boiler surface was totally flat giving a bit more of the ring to squash down, compared to my slightly grooved & pitted boiler surface ( where the ring has been sat for 7 years ).


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

The surface of the boiler should be flat, so use a good known flat surface (kitchen cutting surfaces can be good, and hold the abrasive still, move the boiler across it in a circle whilst the boiler remains vertical. Keep doing that until the boiler face is flat and there's no groove.

Regards bottoming-out, should only be if you've rubbed away so much metal of the boiler that they now are too long. By the sound of it, that's not the case and you need to remove more aluminium in order to get a flat surface.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

AndyDClements said:


> The surface of the boiler should be flat, so use a good known flat surface (kitchen cutting surfaces can be good, and hold the abrasive still, move the boiler across it in a circle whilst the boiler remains vertical. Keep doing that until the boiler face is flat and there's no groove.
> 
> Regards bottoming-out, should only be if you've rubbed away so much metal of the boiler that they now are too long. By the sound of it, that's not the case and you need to remove more aluminium in order to get a flat surface.


 Ive got it all apart again. Ive got 1 mm of bolt 'spare' before it bottoms out.. all seems exactly as it should be here, nothing in the group holes gunking up the bolts passage into them. Bolts vg.

Now if I can, somehow, skim off 1mm + of the boiler face ( my mornings work).. then these bolts are on the cusp of now bottoming out. Urgh.

Anyway. Do you think i can use a coarser belt sanding paper ( not using the sander, ie removed & maybe stapled to a flat surface, to get my lateral sanding as flat as poss ).. then finish of with my wet & dry? I just cant see me getting 1mm+ of alu removed, with the wet & dry; i'll be there for 2 days until my hands are shredded.

thanks fir your help. SC


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

Stapled securely to a flat piece of wood should be fine. I have to admit I have lots of sticky pads for sanding so just place them on a flat surface so don't face that problem. I did winder whether you have a slight dishing to the boiler surface (a known straight edge held against it, and check it by looking to the light for any gap. What you're doing now should resolve that anyway.

Coarser to start with is better, moving to finer. It you start with fine it tends to be less flat (fine to start with tends to end up with smooth lumps rather than flat.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Placing the W&D on a small piece of glass will ensure a good flat finish to the surface using water with a few spots of dish /liquid in it.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

AndyDClements said:


> Stapled securely to a flat piece of wood should be fine. I have to admit I have lots of sticky pads for sanding so just place them on a flat surface so don't face that problem. I did winder whether you have a slight dishing to the boiler surface (a known straight edge held against it, and check it by looking to the light for any gap. What you're doing now should resolve that anyway.
> 
> Coarser to start with is better, moving to finer. It you start with fine it tends to be less flat (fine to start with tends to end up with smooth lumps rather than flat.


 Hi Andy, Ive followedyour advice & after alot of hard graft... have shaved off enough/ still two small pits.. but seems fixed!

That is, this main problem is. But, I have two more probs ( 1st of which, the more concerning I had hoped the sanding would solve). The 1st being no steam. And, no water firing out the wand if you open the steam knob & press the RH switch 'on'; if I flip the middle switch between water from group head ( ok ) then alternating to it diverting to the wand.. the pump ceases up/ no go. So I turn off. Tried to ' force' it bu flipping switch to & fro.. but no joy.

My other, last prob is simply clear water is coming onto my espresso cup saucer, from the periphery of the group head, whilst a normal shot is achieved. I would surmise, & hope, this might be simply the portafilter thick gasket? I did reverse it, & it was fairly hard with a ridge around the middle id hoped the p'filter would squidge flat in time.

Thanks for reading, SC


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

late to the party. Have you stripped and cleaned the solenoid valve (correction)

Have you thoroughly cleaned the recess where the group gasket fits (old bits of stuck / baked on gasket)

The gaskets only go on one way, bevelled edge upwards.

The gasket should be supple not hard, you need a new one preferably silicone / cafelat.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> late to the party. Have you stripped and cleaned the OPV ?
> 
> Have you thoroughly cleaned the recess where the group gasket fits (old bits of stuck / baked on gasket)
> 
> ...


 Hi El c..

no I didnt strip down the opv.. would this be the primary cause of my steam not happening? Rather than the solonoid? I can look how to strip the opv, if it has direct influence on the steam not happening: if not, then Id be inclined to leave it if it was working before.

Would the leaking group head, have only the thick gasket as bad, being the only likely cause?

thanks SC


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

~ Sea Chief ~ said:


> Hi El c..
> 
> no I didnt strip down the opv.. would this be the primary cause of my steam not happening? Rather than the solonoid? I can look how to strip the opv, if it has direct influence on the steam not happening: if not, then Id be inclined to leave it if it was working before.
> 
> ...


 The fingers went dyslexic I meant to put solenoid.

The OPV would not affect the steaming unless it was open and not maintaining pressure in the boiler.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> late to the party. Have you stripped and cleaned the OPV ?
> 
> Have you thoroughly cleaned the recess where the group gasket fits (old bits of stuck / baked on gasket)
> 
> ...


 El C.. or anyone:

Ive stripped down the - solonoid- ( not the opv.. i cant find any youtube clips to show me how to do this ). I know the solonoid wasn't firing the excess puck water to the tray, &, I think it has some bearing on the steam function )I dont know precisely if it does or not.. but its worth me cleaning the solonoid anyway, in case it does/ & the only thing left i can feasably clean).

So, 1st time the solonoid has ever been apart. Its fairly dark & a bit gunky, looks like oil, but cant be. I have my 3 sections, all have rubber bits in. I have puly 30g descaler sachets ( chuck one in tank, per litre if water ), but need to be careful if Im soaking all 3 bits, to do the correct strength solution. And soak for how long. If anyone can help.

The middle solonoid section, looks the most complicated. I can see an external spring (easy to see how this section sits into the main brass outer section 'base', the spring moving it etc).. but inside this middle section 'stem', i see an internal spring, & the very centre of it seems therefore to push up & down is it? This internal stem bit, is quite sticky / not moving freely.

So do I just whack all 3 sections in descaler solution? With their rubber bits immersed? Do i push the centre stem bit in/ out to make sure its moving freely?

thanks SC


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> The fingers went dyslexic I meant to put solenoid.
> 
> The OPV would not affect the steaming unless it was open and not maintaining pressure in the boiler.


 Great, then my reply above makes more sense then.

Thanks El c..


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Describes cleaning of the solenoid valve too!


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

> 47 minutes ago, ratty said:
> 
> Describes cleaning of the solenoid valve too!


 Hi rattyratface,

thanks.. I did find this very clip over the last hour/ great mindsthink alike tc.

Ok Ive cleaned solonoid. Put the lot back together... but still nothing from the steam arm. Same pump strains/ stops when the middle switch is pressed down ( & steam knob open, the RH switch on to alternate between group water - good - & it straining/ no water from the steam arm).

As far as it looked, the solonoid sections seemed in good order. Just the stem of the middle spring clad section I'm not 100% sure about.

Any ideas? Thanks SC


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Sounds like you have some limescale particle blockage in the system somewhere! Only answer initially is to strip it all down again and check all orifices for blockages. OPV, Solenoid valve, Group head and the steam valve. All needs to be soaked in citric acid and ports need to be cleared, probing with something like a needle or paper clip and preferably afterwards,sprayed with compressed air.

Sorry I cannot be more help but that's the bottom line and there's no short cuts I'm afraid unless you have another working Classic, and you can the test one thing at a time.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

ratty said:


> Sounds like you have some limescale particle blockage in the system somewhere! Only answer initially is to strip it all down again and check all orifices for blockages. OPV, Solenoid valve, Group head and the steam valve. All needs to be soaked in citric acid and ports need to be cleared, probing with something like a needle or paper clip and preferably afterwards,sprayed with compressed air.
> 
> Sorry I cannot be more help but that's the bottom line and there's no short cuts I'm afraid unless you have another working Classic, and you can the test one thing at a time.


 Hi ratty, will do exactly this & strip whole shebang down again. Strewth taken me most of a day! Cant let it beat me.. the b'stard. Will report back in a few hours.

Much appreciate your help. sC


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

@ratty success! Stripped the steam valve off & soaked in stuff, & steam wand too. All working gOod as gold. Actualy it is a gold classic.

One thing left to do, i think, is do the backflush business, with the blank rubber johnny in the portafilter. I dont mean put a used rubber johnny in my p'filter. I mean i had a rubber disc thing which stopped the water.. then it fired it backwards de gunking the solonoid. something or other. I cant find mine anywhere; can someone remind me why they're called? Cheapy thing worked ok for me.

thanks Sc


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Full gasket set for a tenner with the best materials.

Don't cut corners to save a couple of quid else it will rear up eventually and bite you!

Here you have all replacements including the Group Head Gasket you were looking for the name of. Buying separately is a false economy as with this set you will have a few spares at hand if/when required. Using new gaskets and better material will last you years and they will be easily removed rather than having to gouge inferior material gaskets out with a screwdriver when they start leaking.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224619167872?epid=19027921458&hash=item344c588080:g:qvwAAOSw2K5cF7zY


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

ratty said:


> Full gasket set for a tenner with the best materials.
> 
> Don't cut corners to save a couple of quid else it will rear up eventually and bite you!
> 
> ...


 Ive already gone for my cheapies.. bought yesterday ratty, the shame I know I know. But will keep your recommendation to hand for the next service.

Could you recall what the rubber cup thing is called: I placed in my portafilter, a blocking thing, which is used to clean the backflush mechanism-? This was another cheapie.. but effective. I just can't find it.

Thanks, SC


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Rubber backflushing disc.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

ratty said:


> Rubber backflushing disc.


 Thanks, bought one.. but doesnt fit my single shot portafilter.. but anyway.

Chaps Ive got a new problem. Driving me insane. I had leaking, a bit, from around my group head.. but not from the group/ boiler gasket junction ( this successfully fixed ). So I bought a new portafilter rubber ring, you push it onto, fitted. But the same damn problem. When the shot is suitably high pressured, slow enough, enough to do 25 seconds shot more or less.. clear water is being added to the cup, from the portafilter. From around the edge. Definitely not from around the group exterior above it, thankfully.

 I just cant understand it. If it can only be getting into the cup, from the portafilter, & its a new ring, & the p'filter is locked in super well... how the hell is clear water getting into the cup?? Its ruining each shot, now taking 10 seconds all totally weakened with water.

Thanks. SC


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Check the rounded lip on the basket for dents or dings


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> Check the rounded lip on the basket for dents or dings


 It's absolutely fine, perfect. I just cannot get my head around, how, it is physically possible, for clear water to get to the cup from the portafilter, with a new gasket ring this in, the recess perfectly cleaned out, the p'filter used to push it in place, it locks in at the exact correct good position.. about 4" more towards the right than with the old hard gasket ring thing in.

It just doesn't make any feasable sense. The only way any liquid, coffee or water, can get out... if there is a super solid seal all checked thoughrally... is through the basket. So how is water bypassing the basket!??


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> Check the rounded lip on the basket for dents or dings


 Weird. Put the old hard ring back... & the leak stops.

So it has to be a faulty, original gaggia ( so the ebay listing suggests.. ) group seal gasket. It came with a shower screen, which looks orig gaggia.

Im wondering if its simply the height fractionally not enough: if its ott high, the portafilter handle doesnt quite get to 12 o'clock (what i mean is not quite dead straight out towards you, relative to the front of machine), & if its not high enough, innevitably the portafilter handle will go far past straight out, a good way round twds RHS. Now my theory is if this is the case, the basket will be slightly off the black group seal, at the LHS. And this is where my leak happened.

But the p*ss in the punchbowl, is when i reseated the new group seal ( flipped it over ) the leak was at the front. Urgh. Anyway I dont suppose anyone in www land is even reading this, or if so, so bored they might have gnashed their own teeth down to stubs already.

thx SC


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

@~ Sea Chief ~ - so the Gaggia Classic traditionally takes an 8.5mm E61 gasket. They are very cheap. There's only one side, and the flat side touches the portafilter basket. The bevelled side is up and touches the group.

Are you sure you've got the right gasket? Do you have details of the listing on eBay?

e.g.: https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/e61-group-head-gasket-8-5mm.html

buy 5 and they are £0.99 each&#8230;


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> @~ Sea Chief ~ - so the Gaggia Classic traditionally takes an 8.5mm E61 gasket. They are very cheap. There's only one side, and the flat side touches the portafilter basket. The bevelled side is up and touches the group.
> 
> Are you sure you've got the right gasket? Do you have details of the listing on eBay?
> 
> ...


 99p?! Crikey Ive been rogered then.. mine did have a shower screen too, both £5.50 here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114724348482

thanks SC


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

@~ Sea Chief ~ - looks like the right one. Not a bad deal if you needed a new shower screen to be honest.

just make sure you install it correctly. It should point towards you, but, if goes past a bit, don't worry about it.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Th chap is sending another one.. but if the batch are all either slightly low, or defective in one bit of it then same thing will happen. Anyway glad my old one works just about.

With the bad new one here, I can only think to make an earlobe hole & gradually enlargen it to get this rubber ring in. Cant think what else to do with it.

thx SC


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

Good stuff. Let us know how it goes. Otherwise, just buy 5 from BB at £0.99. You'll need to replace them every year or so, so money well spent.

or you can buy a silicone one, which will last you a lot longer:

https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/8-5mm-e61-silicon-gasket.html


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

The original Gaggia seal does not have a groove up the outside of the seal.

As I said before make sure there are no tiny bits of seal left in the recess and no damage to the flat surface.

You would be better off with a Cafelat seal as they are softer with more give and they last longer


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## shaun**** (Oct 24, 2015)

~ Sea Chief ~ said:


> if its not high enough, innevitably the portafilter handle will go far past straight out, a good way round twds RHS. Now my theory is if this is the case, the basket will be slightly off the black group seal, at the LHS. And this is where my leak happened.


 I don't think this is the problem, my classic since I bought it (a 2004 one used) always had the pf sitting slightly to the right and never had any water leak. it's not the original gaggia pf, and i think it might do this because it's profile is slightly lower. but if what you are thinking is the problem was right, i'm thinking mine would still leak? i replaced the gasket recently and it still sits a little bit to the right, albeit less so than it did.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> Good stuff. Let us know how it goes. Otherwise, just buy 5 from BB at £0.99. You'll need to replace them every year or so, so money well spent.
> 
> or you can buy a silicone one, which will last you a lot longer:
> 
> https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/8-5mm-e61-silicon-gasket.html


 Is the one i bought - not- a silicone one then? If not, is a silicone one just badically softer so a better likely seal-?


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

Whilst Im here, can i ask: is it expected that the coffeepuck is dried ( i think the solonoid backflush thing, going out the front side pipe, is specifically for this drying thing.. isn't it?) fairly immediately after a shot is made?

What i find, is a gloopy coffee liquid remaining on the top of the puck. But give it a while.. & the heat seems to dry it out if its left on. If its turned off after a shot.. the liquid just remains for hours.

Ive done a backflush clean.. .& get the pump straining, then it shooting out down the pipe ok. But whether this is working after a shot & upon brew button turned off, I cant really establish as clearly.

thanks SC


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

~ Sea Chief ~ said:


> Is the one i bought - not- a silicone one then? If not, is a silicone one just badically softer so a better likely seal-?


 Correct. It also doesn't bake (and consequently hardens) with the group heat like the rubber ones, thus lasting a lot longer.

the other silicone gasket, more traditional and more popular is the Cafelat one. The 8.5mm is blue.

e.g.: https://www.cafelat.co.uk/products/e61-blue


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

The solenoid valve depressurises the group and consequently removes any water left in the puck. Sometimes it dries up pretty well, sometimes it doesn't, depending on dose and coffee used.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

shaun**** said:


> I don't think this is the problem, my classic since I bought it (a 2004 one used) always had the pf sitting slightly to the right and never had any water leak. it's not the original gaggia pf, and i think it might do this because it's profile is slightly lower. but if what you are thinking is the problem was right, i'm thinking mine would still leak? i replaced the gasket recently and it still sits a little bit to the right, albeit less so than it did.


 No, I think slightly to the right..is optimal. But push it another notch round.. & if you look underneath you can see the basket is on the cusp of the edge of the group seal. Another notch round again ( not that i can get it this far ) & it will definitely leave a gap. So i think, perhaps, my idea has validity.. but whether this was the cause of my leak, itsnot easy to conclude. It seems plausible, to me. And i just can't see any other plausible reason you see.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> Correct. It also doesn't bake (and consequently hardens) with the group heat like the rubber ones, thus lasting a lot longer.
> 
> the other silicone gasket, more traditional and more popular is the Cafelat one. The 8.5mm is blue.
> 
> e.g.: https://www.cafelat.co.uk/products/e61-blue


 Aha understood. Ok then this seller has kindly said he's gonna post me a silicone one on monday. That's decent of him. I thought he was just sending a direct replacement you see.


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## shaun**** (Oct 24, 2015)

~ Sea Chief ~ said:


> No, I think slightly to the right..is optimal. But push it another notch round.. & if you look underneath you can see the basket is on the cusp of the edge of the group seal. Another notch round again ( not that i can get it this far ) & it will definitely leave a gap. So i think, perhaps, my idea has validity.. but whether this was the cause of my leak, itsnot easy to conclude. It seems plausible, to me. And i just can't see any other plausible reason you see.


 I've never had cause to look because i've not had any problems with leaking. but i'm thinking surely the pf and group must sit centred and flush with each other?


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

shaun**** said:


> I've never had cause to look because i've not had any problems with leaking. but i'm thinking surely the pf and group must sit centred and flush with each other?


 No, when you insert it, it drifts off RHS by your pulling it this rightwards way by a good 5mm +.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

@~ Sea Chief ~ I'm lost on this. 😂😂😂😂

When you rotate the portafilter on the group, the basket remains in the same position, it should just rotate. It should not go off centre.

is your dispersion screen flush and correctly installed?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Can we have a photo of underside of brew head (as is)

and a photo of the PF with and without basket . Also one without the seal in place.

This may help to clarify the problem.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> @~ Sea Chief ~ I'm lost on this. 😂😂😂😂
> 
> When you rotate the portafilter on the group, the basket remains in the same position, it should just rotate. It should not go off centre.
> 
> is your dispersion screen flush and correctly installed?


 Ah no, it doesn't in fact remain central. I thought it did too. It suggests it does using it. But lying it on its back & putting in & removing the group seal so many times as ive just done, i put the p'filter in so it stuck up in the air. Only then could i see it actually sits slightly twds the RHS, the same way it rotates to lock it in.

It is simply made this way. Its not obvious, you are not meant to notice it.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> Can we have a photo of underside of brew head (as is)
> 
> and a photo of the PF with and without basket . Also one without the seal in place.
> 
> This may help to clarify the problem.


 Its all fine now. I have the old group seal in all hard as nails, but makes a solid seal thankfully still. And a silicone one foc on its way, from my very personable ebay seller ( plaudits to Simon, Ive given his link above to his listing; & revoke my impetuousness at suggesting I had been rogered: in fact on the contrary as it turns out).

thanks. SC


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## shaun**** (Oct 24, 2015)

~ Sea Chief ~ said:


> Ah no, it doesn't in fact remain central. I thought it did too. It suggests it does using it. But lying it on its back & putting in & removing the group seal so many times as ive just done, i put the p'filter in so it stuck up in the air. Only then could i see it actually sits slightly twds the RHS, the same way it rotates to lock it in.
> 
> It is simply made this way. Its not obvious, you are not meant to notice it.


 i'm going to have a look the next time i strip mine down to clean it, as i don't really understand. even if it sits off centre, the basket/pf is circular, so rotating it shouldn't make a difference to how it sits against the gasket. it turns inside the groove on the group, which is also circular. so i don't get how it could move laterally when it's turned. maybe it will all become clearer when i have a closer look.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

shaun**** said:


> i'm going to have a look the next time i strip mine down to clean it, as i don't really understand. even if it sits off centre, the basket/pf is circular, so rotating it shouldn't make a difference to how it sits against the gasket. it turns inside the groove on the group, which is also circular. so i don't get how it could move laterally when it's turned. maybe it will all become clearer when i have a closer look.


 Actually although it is definitely slightly offcentre, & Im sure the way they're made to be.. its perhaps not an issue: the seller kindly posted me a blue 'repa' ( what it had written in it one side, or repu, or reca) silicone one. Fitted & handle goes alarmingly over the the RHS.. but just about seems ok/ the seal made without a leak.. tho the odd drip from the LHS 'weakest spot ' threatens, & does tell me the bssket is on the very very edge of the silicone ring this side. Another shove RHS a bit more... & there'd likely be a tiny gap.

Anyway service all done. Thanks for all the help. SC


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

@~ Sea Chief ~ - would be interesting to see a video of all this off-centre stuff. Seems very weird to me.


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

I normally get a shim from Simon for this


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> @~ Sea Chief ~ - would be interesting to see a video of all this off-centre stuff. Seems very weird to me.


 I did ask for some photos but nothing forthcoming ? Would make diagnosing simpler.


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## ~ Sea Chief ~ (Sep 20, 2011)

El carajillo said:


> I did ask for some photos but nothing forthcoming ? Would make diagnosing simpler.


 Hi chaps, sorry I didn't see your request El C. To be honest its not really needed now. You see basically its this, & the way they are just made ( not a fault per se).. you need the portafilter width to be less than the group head width, by a bit, ie a birpt of wiggle room is needed (& built into the design principle )or each time it'd be a gnat's chuff tight. So 5mm it is. Now, innevitably if the portafilter is twisted, rightwRds, to lock it in... it will naturally shift a wee bit towards the right too. So a gap will form on the LHS. Yours will be so. Its just mine, seemed to be shifting a bit too far/ correspinding with an unusually far- rightwards portafilter handle. Why.. ive no idea. But if the seal is say 7 mm high... the 1.5mm less could mean the handle locks in further rightwards, leaving a gap LHS, there would be pi$$ in one's punchbowl.


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## bluebeardmcf (Nov 28, 2016)

Even later to the party...

@~ Sea Chief ~A little while ago you mentioned that this is a single portafilter - did you mean a single basket or that the whole shebang is for a single shot?

I too would like to see a photo, I've been wondering if this is a Gaggia part or something similar but not quite the right fit.


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