# Home made bottomless portafiller



## Robbo (Feb 17, 2016)

Hi, I am a frustrated former engineer turned desk jockey, (as well as being incredibly tight) so any excuse to get my drill out and save a few quid is worth a shot!

I was just wandering if anyone has tried drilling or cutting their standard portafiller for a Classic to make it bottomless?

Just something i was considering and wandered if it was possible/worth doing.

Cheers, Robbo.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

There is a company that does it for people so I guess the answer is yes. You would have exposed brass and, at least in my head, I can taste brass contact with water. Something to consider.


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## risky (May 11, 2015)

Any machine shop should be able to do this very easily. But I think @yardbent did it at home.

I wouldn't worry about the brass. Plenty of us have brass dispersion plates and I've never noticed a taste.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Just use a quality hole saw (Starrett, Bosch, ) prefferably with locking mandrel (no wobble) Start one side and then complete from the other= gives clean finish both sides.

PS I did yardbents for him.


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## yardbent (Aug 8, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> ....................PS I did yardbents for him.


and excellent it is too..!

i added a brass dispersion plate, and IMS screen and a VST basket

I dont taste brass - but i can now see when the tamping method is rubbish [ by the spray...


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Glad to see you back on the forum John. Broad band working better now ?


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## Mister_Tad (Feb 9, 2015)

I've attacked two of them with a Starrett hole saw, with very good results the first time (maybe a couple mm off centre) and perfect results the second.

I clamped the PF in wood blocks and cut from the inside out (so I didn't have to worry about being centred) with a hand drill, making sure I stayed as vertical as possible. Any rough edges remaining got tidied up with a needle file.


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## Jason1wood (Jun 1, 2012)

Pics or it didn't happen


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## Mister_Tad (Feb 9, 2015)

Tadaa...


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## yardbent (Aug 8, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> Glad to see you back on the forum John. Broad band working better now ?


yes thanks -- a decent internet connection again after 3 months, when BT finally agreed to replace the damaged overhead line to the farm

AND

PlusNet apologised for delays - sent me a 3-month full refund with an extra month for 'goodwill'......


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

Mister_Tad said:


> Tadaa...


fantastic work! what tools did the job? I have several of these to do!


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## Mister_Tad (Feb 9, 2015)

A Starrett 57mm hole saw - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002JT7EO/ref=pe_385721_51767431_TE_dp_1

A Starrett A2 Arbor - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002JT6UO/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_dp_1

A cheap set of needle files - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-24615-Needle-File-Set/dp/B001KOTNOY

A Makita DHP458 specifically, but pretty much any drill should do it. One with an extra handle help keep things on the straight and narrow though. An especially weak battery powered drill may struggle with the hole saw, and the last thing you want is it snagging as you break through the other side, which would likely ruin the tidy finish. Buy cheap, buy twice (and probably buy more PFs).

A few chunks of scrap wood to clamp the handle and PF securely, and level.

(The hole saw was the only thing bought specifically for the job)


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

If you intend to use a deep basket 20 gm + I would suggest you use a 60 mm. hole saw otherwise the basket may catch on the lip left at the bottom.

Also do not forget to remove the spring from the P F before you start to bore.


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## Mister_Tad (Feb 9, 2015)

The "right" size will undoubtedly differ from basket to basket. If I used a 60mm saw on mine it would make a mess of the inside of the basket, since there's a slight taper towards the bottom. The 57mm was perfect for leaving no lip.

I'm using the 26.5mm IMS E61 basket pictured and there are no problems with the basket fouling the filter, but suspect there could be a fit issue with deeper ones - more on account of the design of the PF here rather than the cut though.


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## Mad Wally (Feb 24, 2016)

Dallah said:


> There is a company that does it for people so I guess the answer is yes. You would have exposed brass and, at least in my head, I can taste brass contact with water. Something to consider.


Strange if you consider that boilers and group heads are usually all plain bronze and most fittings and valves are brass. Furthermore the idea of a bottemless is that the coffee flows freely and does not come in contact with the portafilter.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Dallah said:


> There is a company that does it for people so I guess the answer is yes. You would have exposed brass and, at least in my head, I can taste brass contact with water. Something to consider.[/QUOT
> 
> When you consider the majority of taps and valves in domestic water services are brass you already have the taste if there is one in your water. Depending on your water supply the minerals in the water can add a "partina" / coating to the brass.


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

didn't calumT offer this service?


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## DoubleShot (Apr 23, 2014)

Certainly did, a while back, but not sure if he still does?


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## Jason1wood (Jun 1, 2012)

Looks like @Mister_Tad will now have to offer his services as he made such a good job of his own.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

Mad Wally said:


> Strange if you consider that boilers and group heads are usually all plain bronze and most fittings and valves are brass. Furthermore the idea of a bottemless is that the coffee flows freely and does not come in contact with the portafilter.





El carajillo said:


> Dallah said:
> 
> 
> > There is a company that does it for people so I guess the answer is yes. You would have exposed brass and, at least in my head, I can taste brass contact with water. Something to consider.[/QUOT
> ...


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## DoubleShot (Apr 23, 2014)

@CallumT

Just out of interest are you still getting involved in converting regular portafilters into bottomless versions? Not after one myself but other members seem interested.


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## CallumT (Aug 23, 2013)

I can do it, but I'm really swamped at the moment; But dependant on the time constraints of the other party I'm sure something could be figured out.

If your going the DIY approach do push for a 58 plus mm coring bit, and I would also avoid ones with are toothed. Sick with bits suited to cutting ceramics as they'll cut smoother if your performing the process with a hand drill.


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