# How to polish a turd?



## Nopapercup

It's not really a turd but you have to question who in Pavoni decided on brown.

I wanted to pull one of these apart that wasn't the one I use daily and I found this one. It's in pretty good knick. The plan is to fix the electrics, change all the seals, give it a good clean and de-scale and get it powder coated. My original idea was to change the colour to a light blue or orange but it's an old machine and now that I've seen it I'm thinking of keeping the original colour.

Anyone have an opinion on colour?

Any suggestions of what I should do to it? This is especially aimed at the forums restoration king @jimbojohn55


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## jimbojohn55

How did I miss this - Im breaking out in a sweat just looking at that rust









My opinion is yes its a safe bet to keep in brown - get it sand blasted then powder coated

Or

Go any colour you fancy there are a lot more of these machines about so I would feel less bad about going off piste , ive got a black base 97 that will go red quite soon &#8230;


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## jimbojohn55

Just looking at the pics in a bit more detail that chrome looks quite good, the steam arm bracket is easy to straighten, use a small diameter piece of pvc pipe

the orphan espresso video of rebuilds shows the process


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## AndyDClements

If you see the images of the refurb I did on a similar one, you'll be able to see what Rover Russet brown looks like. It's a fractionally lighter shade than the original but very close. Decent primer, acrylic colour and then clear will give a great finish, and be as durable as the original. It will also give you the option to fill any imperfections due to pitting in the steel.


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## Nopapercup

The chrome is really good Jim and the rust probably looks worse than it is. I took it to a powder coaters in Swansea a few days ago to see if they could do it and they seemed to think it would be a fairly easy job.

Now how to remove the boiler and heating element? I was told to get someone to hold it while I gently hammered a screwdriver on one of the bits sticking up to loosen it. Is this the best way of doing it and how do you get the element off? Should I descale now or after or does it matter?


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## jimbojohn55

Nopapercup said:


> View attachment 35333
> View attachment 35334
> View attachment 35335
> View attachment 35336
> View attachment 35337
> 
> 
> The chrome is really good Jim and the rust probably looks worse than it is. I took it to a powder coaters in Swansea a few days ago to see if they could do it and they seemed to think it would be a fairly easy job.
> 
> Now how to remove the boiler and heating element? I was told to get someone to hold it while I gently hammered a screwdriver on one of the bits sticking up to loosen it. Is this the best way of doing it and how do you get the element off? Should I descale now or after or does it matter?


Descale first while it's all together, that way is kinder to the new seals, it also helps loosen the boiler element.

To remove the element don't use a hammer etc it has to be done with a three leg oil filter wrench fiver off eBay, the three legs sit in the three grooves in the base. Using a hammer will distort the casting around the element and stop it sealing properly, most importantly you should be pimping to music of your choice ;-)


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## jimbojohn55

one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Leg-Two-Way-Oil-Filter-Wrench-75-130MM-Drive-Car-Filter-Removal-Tool/173212565160?hash=item285445fea8:g:7bAAAOSwSB1appCQ


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## Nopapercup

Descale done. I've been trying to find one of those 3 leg oil filter wrenches locally as I need to get it painted this week before I leave Swansea. Sign of the times but so few places now sell tools and those that do have a limited selection. I'll order one online but I'll see if my mechanic has one Monday I can borrow.


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## jimbojohn55

Halfords in Swansea say they have one but £16 - so that's a 150% mark up haha https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/halfords-advanced-adjustable-oil-filter-remover?_br_psugg_q=oil+filter+wrench

you need a ceramic insulator for one of the element terminals as well like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-Insulating-Beads-Insulator-Porcelain-size-3-x-50pcs-IPB3-or-Offers/292617600865?epid=1630955560&hash=item44215e3f61:g:uXAAAOSw-jhUFu72


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Halfords in Swansea say they have one but £16 - so that's a 150% mark up haha https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/halfords-advanced-adjustable-oil-filter-remover?_br_psugg_q=oil+filter+wrench
> 
> you need a ceramic insulator for one of the element terminals as well like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-Insulating-Beads-Insulator-Porcelain-size-3-x-50pcs-IPB3-or-Offers/292617600865?epid=1630955560&hash=item44215e3f61:g:uXAAAOSw-jhUFu72


Brilliant thanks Jim I've ordered both off of eBay and hopefully the garage will help get it off Monday.


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## jimbojohn55

I should have said the beads come in different sizes you might need a larger size - bit of trial and error I'm afraid - still at £3 a pop its not a big issue


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## Nopapercup

Getting the element and the boiler off was a mission! I would have never managed the element on my own. Fortunately the garage where I've been taking my car for years helped out. It took two of us, penetrating oil, a lot of force and eventually we had no option but to tap it in order to get it to move. Fair to say it hasn't been off since it was put on in factory nearly 40 years ago.

It's now being powder coated. My colour choice will either be great or shocking.


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## MildredM

You were ahead of the game with this thread title









'Absolute stinker' of Brexit deal 'like polishing a turd,' claims Boris Johnson.


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## Nopapercup

MildredM said:


> You were ahead of the game with this thread title
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Absolute stinker' of Brexit deal 'like polishing a turd,' claims Boris Johnson.


I hope that doesn't mean Borris and I are on the same wavelength


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## Nopapercup

This is after two attempts at descalling with the stuff Ferrari's gave me. I think it will need a few more!


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## Dylan

What descaler is it?

If its just intended as a routine descaler for using once every 'X' months then it will likely be quite weak.

Some cheap vinegar will probably do the job, seeing as you can thoroughly clean it off afterwards. Otherwise you can pick up a big tub of Urnex Dezcal powder and make it a bit stronger - its mostly citric acid based.


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## Nopapercup

Dylan said:


> What descaler is it?
> 
> If its just intended as a routine descaler for using once every 'X' months then it will likely be quite weak.
> 
> Some cheap vinegar will probably do the job, seeing as you can thoroughly clean it off afterwards. Otherwise you can pick up a big tub of Urnex Dezcal powder and make it a bit stronger - its mostly citric acid based.


It's the one they use in the shop, came in a sachet so not sure but I was going to soak it in citric acid next.


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## Nopapercup

Any ideas where I can get one of these metal plates one the side for the base from? I'm guessing they just have a bit of info on the machine and mine no longer has one.

The base is back from the powder coaters. I must have banged my head before choosing the colour. It certainly won't be one for the purists!

Picture below isn't my machine.


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## Missy

Nopapercup said:


> The base is back from the powder coaters. I must have banged my head before choosing the colour. It certainly won't be one for the purists!
> 
> ]


So where are the pics then?


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## MSM

What colour did you go for?


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## Nopapercup

I've been really busy the past few days so I haven't had a chance to upload them. I still need to take the group off, clean it all and change the seals before I put it all back together.

This could look great or not! Soon find out.

I wasn't expecting the underside to be painted.

The colour is Kawasaki Green


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## Dylan

Hulk smash!

(I did not know this forum won't let you use all caps. I was going for the shouty effect but it keeps editing it into lower case







)


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## Glenn

dylan said:


> hulk smash!
> 
> (i did not know this forum won't let you use all caps. I was going for the shouty effect but it keeps editing it into lower case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


You're learning a lot today









Can't wait to see it assembled


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## jimbojohn55

wow im glad you went off piste with the colour - I think it will be fine with the black driptray and badge

of course you will need new cups to match


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## Nopapercup

I'm in the process of pulling this machine apart and it's in a bit of a state. The limescale is unbelievable, but I've just about got it off. I'm no expert but the element looks like it could have had it. There's a crack in one side of it and what looks like a chunk of the outer coating missing on another section. Anyone have any thoughts @jimbojohn55?









One of the boiler gaskets is also broken. According to Ferraris they don't make these elements or gaskets or they're not readily available so anyone know where to get them? I need to contact http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu to see if they can help.


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## spoxehub

@Nopapercup that element is, in my professional engineering opinion, shagged.

Replace.


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## Dylan

this is where is fortunate we have someone like @jimbojohn55 on the forum.

I believe when your element is that fooked you send it to some dude in Hungary to repair (you need to cut off the old element, which is completely replaced) (This is if he does those elements, I just remember seeing Jimbo get one done for his refurb)

I would also guess Jimbo will be able to advise you how to make some new seals.


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## Nopapercup

Thanks guys, I've emailed Francesco and I may have to get the details of the guy in Hungary.


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## jimbojohn55

The element will need to go to gabor in Hungary it will take 2-3 months your alternative is to get the later bolt on element and a replacement boltonable (bigly new word, im the greatest) boiler nut like this

https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La-Pavoni-Lever-Brass-Boiler-to-Base-Ring---31104702/m-2159.aspx

and an element like this - https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La-Pavoni-Lever-Element-1000200w-230v---331336/m-2193.aspx

your into £100 if you add on the three bolts and oring gasket plus postage

or go the Gabor route and sit tight -I will send a PM with gabors email


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## jimbojohn55

the gaskets can be reused or buy a sheet or gasket material and cut a couple out - having said that fransesco can supply them. - you can reuse the one that's not broken, ive got another used one if you want it.


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> the gaskets can be reused or buy a sheet or gasket material and cut a couple out - having said that fransesco can supply them. - you can reuse the one that's not broken, ive got another used one if you want it.


That would be great Jim thanks. I think I'll go down the Gabor route, I've sent him an email.


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## Nopapercup

The Brown/Green machine has been completely stripped. I've held off ordering the parts required as I now have this one as well I'm trying to strip down and I want to order all the parts or have both elements rebuilt together. My farther who's machine it is believes the element doesn't work but he hasn't tried it and it's been sitting in his garage for over 20 years.

I can't get the element out for love or money so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I think I'll need to find someone to help get it out. It may have to be heated up.









I'm sure there's a way of stopping the photos rotating when uploading them but I haven't figured it out yet.


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## Dylan

Use Imgur for your images.


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## jimbojohn55

edit - ha I see you have one ! - try some penetrating oil firsts

edit 2 - try heating up the back of the element with a hairdryer or a hot air paint stripper,

you need a three leg oil filter wrench £6.50p from uk made in china - I don't know of any tool better suited, the three legs grip three cutouts in the edge of the element

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-THREE-LEG-65-TO-130MM-DIAMETER-REMOVAL-TOOL-REMOVER/232870797900?epid=10018854011&hash=item36382e624c:g:ZXcAAOSwOAda6gLq


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## jimbojohn55

Dylan said:


> Use Imgur for your images.


or save them to your desktop, edit by cropping and save again - that will stop them rotating as well, I believe the problem is that some mobile phone pics add a tag that says view this way but if you edit the pic it removes the tags. or some shizzle like that


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> edit - ha I see you have one ! - try some penetrating oil firsts
> 
> edit 2 - try heating up the back of the element with a hairdryer or a hot air paint stripper,
> 
> you need a three leg oil filter wrench £6.50p from uk made in china - I don't know of any tool better suited, the three legs grip three cutouts in the edge of the element
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-THREE-LEG-65-TO-130MM-DIAMETER-REMOVAL-TOOL-REMOVER/232870797900?epid=10018854011&hash=item36382e624c:g:ZXcAAOSwOAda6gLq
> 
> View attachment 35817


I 'll try the wife's hairdryer. I put so much pressure trying to open it I managed to bend one of the arms on the filter wrench and the element didn't budge.


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## jimbojohn55

I suppose ive only removed about 5 of these elements, penetrating oil and the wrench has worked each time, hmm you might have just got unlucky, having said that did you descale first - if the element was leaking there could be a build up limescale/ corrosion on the threads


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## Nopapercup

With a little help from my garage in Swansea we got the element out. Francesco suggested I get a multimeter to test if it's working which I have. Having never used a multimeter before I think I'm getting the same reading on both elements of 600 which I'm not sure is correct. Anyone have any ideas?


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## jimbojohn55

Switch to ohms 2k scale, black lead in com hole and red in the V / Ohms hole then measure across the small and then the big elements you should get a different reading one of them .2 and one 0.02 approx.

then measure from a terminal and the base - you should NOT get a reading , if you do the element is Trumped

edited !


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Switch to ohms 2k scale, black lead in com hole and red in the V / Ohms hole then measure across the small and then the big elements you should get a different reading one of them .2 and one 0.02 approx.
> 
> then measure from a terminal and the base - you should NOT get a reading , if you do the element is Trumped
> 
> edited !


Thanks Jim. On the element I'm getting the same reading on the big and the small 002 with ohms 2k. If I touch a terminal and the base I'm not getting a reading or it's 1 which I think is the same thing.


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## jimbojohn55

Hi on the 2K scale and this is for a 600w and 200w early element - yours may be an 800w and 200w

anyway I get big element .08 and the small is .23

have another check, also check the battery in the meter isnt on the way out


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## jimbojohn55

also have you removed the flat bridge plate between the small and large elements


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Hi on the 2K scale and this is for a 600w and 200w early element - yours may be an 800w and 200w
> 
> anyway I get big element .08 and the small is .23
> 
> have another check, also check the battery in the meter isnt on the way out


Thanks Jim

This is the first time I've used a multimeter so excuse the stupid questions. It's new but a cheapie one so should hopefully work. I took the nuts and plate off of the underside but I can't get a regular reading from this side, it just jumps all over. On the other side if I put the probes on the big element I get 002 and the same then on the small element 002. The element is 800w 200w and stamped 11/78


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## jimbojohn55

Nopapercup said:


> Thanks Jim
> 
> This is the first time I've used a multimeter so excuse the stupid questions. It's new but a cheapie one so should hopefully work. I took the nuts and plate off of the underside but I can't get a regular reading from this side, it just jumps all over. On the other side if I put the probes on the big element I get 002 and the same then on the small element 002. The element is 800w 200w and stamped 11/78


Its tricky but to get a steady reading you need hold the probes on to the elements without wobble etc - if the element wire looks a bit mucky try cleaning it up first with a bit of fine sandpaper or wet and dry.

The odd thing is that the readings are the same - try the different Ohm scales on your meter and see what you get, the main thing is that you get a reading from both so they should work ok:good:

edit - are you sure the decimal point is in the same place on the two readings?


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Its tricky but to get a steady reading you need hold the probes on to the elements without wobble etc - if the element wire looks a bit mucky try cleaning it up first with a bit of fine sandpaper or wet and dry.
> 
> The odd thing is that the readings are the same - try the different Ohm scales on your meter and see what you get, the main thing is that you get a reading from both so they should work ok:good:
> 
> edit - are you sure the decimal point is in the same place on the two readings?


I may be getting somewhere. With the dial at 20k the big element is reading 0.07 small element 0.27


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## jimbojohn55

bang on - I guess one of our multimeters is out, at least the element is fine ,


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> bang on - I guess one of our multimeters is out, at least the element is fine ,


As mine cost a £5 I'll say it's mine but great result if it works!


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## jimbojohn55

Nopapercup said:


> As mine cost a £5 I'll say it's mine but great result if it works!


as mine cost all of £14 it could be either!


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## Nopapercup

Any suggestions on where to get the ceramic insulating washers for the element? I can't seem to find the right size.


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## AndyDClements

M5?M6?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/plain-washers/?applied-dimensions=4294880934


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## jimbojohn55

Ceramic bead washers on fleabay, there not common and often disappear, how many do you need I've got a few

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ceramic+insulating+beads&_sacat=0

you end up buying a few to get the right size



Nopapercup said:


> Any suggestions on where to get the ceramic insulating washers for the element? I can't seem to find the right size.
> View attachment 37030


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Ceramic bead washers on fleabay, there not common and often disappear, how many do you need I've got a few
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ceramic+insulating+beads&_sacat=0
> 
> you end up buying a few to get the right size


Ive ordered some already from eBay but they where the wrong size. I can't seem to find the right size. I need them for 2 elements so 8?


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## Nopapercup

AndyDClements said:


> M5?M6?
> 
> https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/plain-washers/?applied-dimensions=4294880934


Thanks Andy but these all appear to be the wrong size.


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## jimbojohn55

ive got eight that are 8mm wide by 10mm long, I think I had to sand one down on a disc sander , it was a real PITA and took ages as they are so hard.

your welcome to them but if they are not the right size your best to keep fishing


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## jimbojohn55

or you can try avencia - scroll right down to the bottom of this article and he used to do a kit http://www.spanglefish.com/avicennassolution/index.asp?pageid=243553


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> ive got eight that are 8mm wide by 10mm long, I think I had to sand one down on a disc sander , it was a real PITA and took ages as they are so hard.
> 
> your welcome to them but if they are not the right size your best to keep fishing


Thanks Jim, I think those might be too big. I'll have a look at the avencia link and I've emailed Francesco. I was hoping he would have put some in with the parts I bought but he either forgot or didn't have any.


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## Nopapercup

I finally found the time to start building these machines and unsurprisingly I've come across a few hurdles. The main one being the brass boiler ring. One of my original ones is broken, Francesco sent me a brass replacement but I can't get it on either of my boilers. I've put one of the machines together with the original ring that's not broken.

I've attached photos of the rings, any suggestions on how to tighten the brass one? I can't even hand screw it on. The original I managed to hand screw and than tap tighten.


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## AndyDClements

I'd suggest some bolts with cup heads, shortened so that they secure all the way down to the ring without poking out the other side. Then use those for push levers against.


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## Nopapercup

Thought I would add some photos. This machine has a bit of a history for me at least. It was a birthday present to my farther from my mother in 1978. My farther used it for years and it went with him from London to Gabon and then to Brittany in France and now onto me. My farther repainted it in the 80's and in the early 90's it stopped working. He was going to fix it but ended up with another Pavoni so this machine sat in his garage for 25 years.

I still have the wiring to do but i'm just waiting on a new power lead.

Unfortunately I'm not in Jim's league when it comes to restoration but I don't think it's too bad for my first attempt


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## Nopapercup




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## coffeechap

That looks great, I love seeing more of these beautiful little machines pro ugh this back to life


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## Nicknak

@Nopapercup re the rings didn't the early boilers have a finer thread than the later ones .


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> @Nopapercup re the rings didn't the early boilers have a finer thread than the later ones .


Yes apparantly the brass one Francesco sent me fits all pre 1995 boilers. I can send it back to him and he'll swap it but it's probably me and not the boiler ring so I thought I'd try and find a solution first.


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## Nicknak

I bought a 5/78 off here knowing it was in parts and the ring broken .. I was just going to nick some bits off it but the boiler etc is so good it need saving ..For another day .. I have been looking around for one and I believe they changed the thread in 1982 and even possibly the diameter .. One of the experts are likely to know ..


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## jimbojohn55

This is what ive used, a piece of hardwood with a couple of the right size drill bits in it,

but ive also in the past threaded the two holes and screwed shortened torqs bolts in them and then levered the heads against each other anti clockwise.


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> This is what ive used, a piece of hardwood with a couple of the right size drill bits in it,
> 
> but ive also in the past threaded the two holes and screwed shortened torqs bolts in them and then levered the heads against each other anti clockwise.
> 
> View attachment 37885


Thanks Jim I'll see if I can cobble something together tomorrow.


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## Nicknak

@Nopapercup I don't know whether you sorted the boiler ring out ? .

I had a look in the box of bits that came with the 1978 one I got in bits , there is what looks like an aluminium type ring that is very slightly bigger than my boiler thread .. I don't know what year etc the one you haven't got a ring is or whether this bit is any good for you ..??


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> @Nopapercup I don't know whether you sorted the boiler ring out ? .
> 
> I had a look in the box of bits that came with the 1978 one I got in bits , there is what looks like an aluminium type ring that is very slightly bigger than my boiler thread .. I don't know what year etc the one you haven't got a ring is or whether this bit is any good for you ..??


 @Nicknak that could be really useful. Any chance you can take a photo of it to see if it's the right one, or does it look like the one on the right in the photo?








Many thanks


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## Nicknak

It looks like the one on the right.... I don't know even if it's for a La Pavoni .. I am happy to send it to you to give it a go .. I've been trying to research when the rings changed and I'm sure I read somewhere they changed the boiler diameter ..but I may have been asleep then ..







..


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> It looks like the one on the right.... I don't know even if it's for a La Pavoni .. I am happy to send it to you to give it a go .. I've been trying to research when the rings changed and I'm sure I read somewhere they changed the boiler diameter ..but I may have been asleep then ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..


That would be great but no rush as I won't be back in the uk until January. I heard it changed in 1995


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## Nicknak

Then I am guessing yours must have the same diameter as mine , and my pitch is 1.25 ... This bit is definitely too big for mine. The threads peaks on each piece just touch ..


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> Then I am guessing yours must have the same diameter as mine , and my pitch is 1.25 ... This bit is definitely too big for mine. The threads peaks on each piece just touch ..


I think this is why they replaced the rings with brass ones as the original type warped and cracked but where easier to get on and off without specialist tools


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## Nopapercup

Badge repainting. Might need a bit of touching up when it dries.


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## Nopapercup

All these posts on Lever's and especially Pavoni's has finally got me off my backside in order to put two boxes of bits together. Happy with the results although I need to fire them up.

The brown one I'm still struggling to attach the earth as since powder coating I can't screw it into the base.


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## Nopapercup

The green is ready to go as I could screw the earth into the boiler ring.


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## Nopapercup

I no longer need to worry about multiple shots. The silver my daily Pav is in desperate need of new group seals and a polish.


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## Nicknak

Nopapercup said:


> I no longer need to worry about multiple shots. The silver my daily Pav is in desperate need of new group seals and a polish.
> 
> View attachment 29814


 They have come up really well .. Which one was your dads one ?


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> They have come up really well .. Which one was your dads one ?


 Thanks, my Dads is the brown one. I've tried to keep that one as original as possible.


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## Nicknak

Well done , it seems ages ago .. I take it you got the boiler rings to fit in the end ?

They look great lined up like that ,hope you are keeping them all ..


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## Nopapercup

Nicknak said:


> Well done , it seems ages ago .. I take it you got the boiler rings to fit in the end ?
> 
> They look great lined up like that ,hope you are keeping them all ..


 It has been ages, I don't have the skill or determination of @jimbojohn55 but I'm glad I finally got off my backside to do it. These are my first attempt at restoring something, I'm really happy with how they look.

Francesco sent me a replacement boiler ring which went on really well. With the brass rings there are screw holes so he told me to attach the earth to it. The brown one I have the original ring so the earth needs to be attached to the base unless someone has another solution?

Ive just fired the green one up. On the plus side it turned on with no leaks but with both switches II on it fires up, when I dropped it to I it stopped heating. Hopefully one of the wires isn't working and it's not the element.

The wife thinks I'm selling the green one but we'll see ?. I also have another pre mil in the garage belonging to my farther but it's in a right state.


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## jimbojohn55

Looks good, and the green one has a 70's disco vibe to it, three pavs in one restoration, that takes commitment, whats next?


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## Nopapercup

jimbojohn55 said:


> Looks good, and the green one has a 70's disco vibe to it, three pavs in one restoration, that takes commitment, whats next?


 Thanks Jim, no it was only 2. The silver one is the one I've used daily for years.

I have another premil Pav in the garage from the 90's that I'll tackle at some point.


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## bigsav

What a great thread! Thanks for all the detail!

I can't decide if reading through this is scaring the life out of me or exciting me enough to start my own project! There are a couple of machines on ebay at the moment that look similar to original turd in this thread and I'm really tempted to have a go at fixing one up.

I'm slightly put off by my complete lack of experience in restoration though and I wonder if I'd be better off just buying one that someone else had already restored?

I assume the coffee is automatically better if you've resurrected the machine yourself?!

Also, just out of interest what is a typical price for powder coating the base?

Sav


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## Nopapercup

bigsav said:


> What a great thread! Thanks for all the detail!
> 
> I can't decide if reading through this is scaring the life out of me or exciting me enough to start my own project! There are a couple of machines on ebay at the moment that look similar to original turd in this thread and I'm really tempted to have a go at fixing one up.
> 
> I'm slightly put off by my complete lack of experience in restoration though and I wonder if I'd be better off just buying one that someone else had already restored?
> 
> I assume the coffee is automatically better if you've resurrected the machine yourself?!
> 
> Also, just out of interest what is a typical price for powder coating the base?
> 
> Sav


 I think they're a pretty good introduction to coffee machine restoration. There are plenty of parts around and lots of info online. For the older machines Francesco's site is a great place for info and parts http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu

If you're thinking about it then go for it. Even if things like the electrics make you nervous you can get someone else to do those. Try and find one with the element that works and ideally a portafilter unless it's really cheap. Replacement portafilter £40+ and to get the element restored or replaced between £60-£100. Even if you decide to give up along the way you'll be able to resell it and probably not lose much.

Powder coating is pretty cheap. I spent £20 on each machine.


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