# Wega Mini Nova Restoration



## TomBurtonArt

My Wega Mini Nova which was purchased through a well known auction site showed up this evening, it was purchased with the understanding that boiler, steam HX and hot water all worked but the Group head wouldnt dispense. The solenoid coil was missing and could resolve the group head issue. Replacement purchased, will see!










The box was opened...










Inside I discovered some incredibly dirty PFs and baskets and a broken plastic lid... Not a great start.










Straight into Cafiza and they are starting to shine now (although with a brassier hue than a chromed one). Driptray and loose solenoid cover also go off for cosmetic cleaning.










Broken lid off (replacement needed!) and things start to look interesting.










First, appears to show a scaled up E61. Dang.










Boiler doesnt looks like it's about to explode but I'm starting to feel out of my depth.










Things that I dont yet understand. This looks like a pump to me, Not sure if its vibratory or rotary.










A black rectangle which I don't understand... I'm guessing this is the main control box.










The gaping void where I hoped to find a pour over tank, need to source one, any suggestions? Pennine only have the New Nova version on their site.

So feeling rather out of my depth, would love some help, suggestions, advice, or links to help me on my journey.

Got some Citric on it's way but also trying to source Phos as a more serious option. This isn't going to be a powdercoated frame and new fixings job butwant to get this thing purring.

Thanks for reading.


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## funinacup

Definitely a rotary pump. Giemme box is the main PCB / control board.

Definitely a fair bit of scale around that machine so will likely need a full strip down & descale. Plenty of new seals / gaskets / orings required and patience.

Can't see any hoses for an internal reservoir - is it meant to have one? You'd have to convert it somehow which may be more effort than it's worth. Just run it off a bucket of water or plumb it into the mains.


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## TomBurtonArt

It has a switch to convert from mains to tank (not pictured). But the only hose it has is a woven metallic one for mains, Missus isn't happy about the idea of plumbing in right now so would prefer to keep options open for a neater solution.

If i'm running from an external water tank, would I need any additional pumps?










What is the best way to start to strip down? I understand I have to drain the boiler then will have to take lots of pics/diagrams for reassembly. Got a huge bucket for descale and will place an order for gaskets/o-rings.


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## urbanbumpkin

Any forum members know the Wega?


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## TomBurtonArt

Apparently its the same as a CMA/Astoria machine.

I have these diagrams which may help
























Im fairly convinced it's been overhauled before, looking inside It occurred to me that the permenant marker scribblings in english and the numbers written on connectors probably weren't put there when it was made in Italy. However the scale needs tackling as an urgent matter.

Is there a rep from espressounderground or pennine tea and coffee on the forum?


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## TomBurtonArt

This is the switch I alluded to in a previous post, seems a bit odd to include the circuitry for this without the resevoir.









Also this shows the state of the lid which has a hole for a pour over.


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## 4085

They regularly appear on Ebay from a seller who is a buisness, I think supplying coffee equipment. They always say seller refurbished and their adverts seem to be quite good. I have just had a look and cannot see one there currently


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## TomBurtonArt

Making some headway on dismantling. Trying to label everything.

I'm approaching this cautiously.










Theres clearly some scale going on in there, cant release the element yet, need a bigger wrench.


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## Dylan

A large pair of self locking pliers did the job on the element for me, the only other thing big enough was some kind of pipe wrench.


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## TomBurtonArt

Yeah, sure my father has a big pipe wrench, could do with pipe grips too for the reassembly.


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## TomBurtonArt

Ok! Got the element out.

Pleasantly suprised, clearly not been used much and seems to be fairly clear










Some chunky bits around the base of the element but mostly very thin










Time for some OCD citric acid baths


















How long does one typically leave stuff in acid for? 4hours?

It seems the previous owner didnt use o-rings and instead just chucked a lot of teflon tape and loc-tite at it, so will need to buy all new seals.


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## TomBurtonArt

Oops forgot 'the money shot'


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## El carajillo

Glad to see you are approaching the project methodically, I am sure you will have infuriating moments along the way but a tremendous amount of satisfaction when complete.

Keep the photo's and commentary coming, I am sure there will be many members following your progress AND envying what you are doing.


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## GCGlasgow

El carajillo said:


> Glad to see you are approaching the project methodically, I am sure you will have infuriating moments along the way but a tremendous amount of satisfaction when complete.
> 
> Keep the photo's and commentary coming, I am sure there will be many members following your progress AND envying what you are doing.


Yeh as above, I'd love to do something like this so following your progress, keep us up to date and pics are great to follow.


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## Dylan

Good to see the progress, and maybe as mentioned earlier someone else has 'restored' this one before. I would expect to see a LOT more scale in an old machine like that.

My boiler was a bit more scaled than that, but it had 3 soaks in double strength Dezcal, two soaks of 24 hours and one of 72 before it was 100% scale free.

Enough PTFE tape and you wont need seals at all. It surprised me to see that the seals on all but the element on a VBM I am working on were 100% PTFE tape that was just compressed by screwing in the respective bit.


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## TomBurtonArt

3 hours in acid bath (1.5tbsp citric/1ltr water) and the result is pretty darn good. I decided not to soak overnight, seems unnecessary given the results of the boiler.










The only part which I'm struggling with is the element, the loops aren't at all scaled but the base and near the contacts are scaled. Might just have to brush some citric on and leave overnight before scrubbing off. Can be seen in the image below.










Another aspect is the clear plastic tubing from the OPV/pump is dirty and I'd like to replace but not sure where to find.


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## Dylan

I puzzled over the same thing with the element. I eventually used a plastic bag and some tape that you use to plug holes in tarpaulins to cover the contacts and dunked it the other way up for a few hours. I haven't put things back together yet so fingers crossed I didn't bugger the element









Edit:

The scale there is inconsequential, but it would be nice to have it fully clean!


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## grumpydaddy

Great thread but it is time you bought some proper spanners !! Mole grips and brass do not mix. They will mark the fittings


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## espressotechno

The plastic tubing is high pressure nylon tubing with compression fittings. Just undo both end nuts & pop the whole lot into the acid bath. This nylon tubing can be difficult to source, as the i/d & o/d diameters are important: Try a hydraulic / pneumatic engineering supply shop.


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## Flibster

Could also be the same as tubing used for watercooling computers. Places like overclockers.co.uk or Scan.co.uk may have supplies of the correct sizes.


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## TomBurtonArt

I know about the spanners GrumpyDaddy (impatient and I started to mark the fittings :-/)! Went and stole a set from my Pa this evening so as long as I haven't screwed things up too much already, I should be fine now.

I've found that Bella Barista and Espresso Underground stock nylon tubing for espresso machines, will whip a set of calipers out and check the diameters before placing an order. I have been in touch with Peter at Espresso Underground regarding ordering Seals/gaskets and o-rings and he has been very helpful.

Thank you all for your advice.

I've left the pump alone at this point, and I think possibly I'll leave it as it is and just run some low concentration citric through it when I reassemble. Taking this apart terrifies me.

I'll be loosely putting everything back together this week so that I can work out exactly where it all needs to go then I'll take apart the grouphead next weekend I think.


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## TomBurtonArt

Element loops came out really well.










Base of the Element clearly hadnt got any citric touching it so I turned the element upside down and supported it in a jar, then filled the 'wet' side of the element base with fresh and concentrated citric.


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## kadeshuk

That's what I call a hobby. You might not have known enough when you started this one Tom, but you certainly will when you've finished! We're not worthy......


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## TomBurtonArt

Thanks Neil,

I fear this is the easiest bit, making it watertight and tackling the group head is going to be tough.

I wouldn't put anyone off doing this though, think it's a social responsibility to rescue neglected products and it's really not that tough, as long as you do a bit of research and do things methodically.

Thanks for the advice all again!


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## El carajillo

When you re install the heating element, if you use the "teflon" seal. Make sure you centralise the seal on the element shoulder and check as you tighten it up.As the thread is reduced against the shoulder it can move off centre and cause a leak.!!!!


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## TomBurtonArt

Thanks,

The teflon gasket looks in decent condition but will probably replace.

Just waiting to get the seals/gaskets/o-rings before I start trying to put everything back into place.

Would it be a good idea to take apart the pump head or should I just run descale through it once it's all up and running?


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## El carajillo

TomBurtonArt said:


> Thanks,
> 
> The teflon gasket looks in decent condition but will probably replace.
> 
> Just waiting to get the seals/gaskets/o-rings before I start trying to put everything back into place.
> 
> Would it be a good idea to take apart the pump head or should I just run descale through it once it's all up and running?


Preferably take it apart, check and clean.


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## CallumT

Be careful when descaling elements, its quite often easier to just replace when you factor time and amount of effort. You'll know when its fired up weather its ok or not though

Edit;

Strip the group head all of the internals of this are the last thing the brew water touches, I'd rather have a filthy boiler but clean HX and grouphead as this is what will effect the taste. Be careful with the chroming and the descaler


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## TomBurtonArt

I'll be stripping the group head at the weekend most likely.

Just waiting on all the relevant seals/gaskets before I do this.

Urgh, didn't want to touch the pump.


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## froggystyle

Any plans to swap the switches on the front, they look a bit naff, plus maybe give it a nice colour spray?


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## El carajillo

When you strip the group head pay particular attention to the small springs and where they go, similar size but can be different tensions.

Also watch out for lower spring seat,It looks like a washer with a raised centre, it may stick in lower component,

Examine the cam and followers for wear, check valve seats and seals.If replacing the valves check the lengths as new ones vary in length !!!

Obtain some "Molycote 111" for lubricating the cam and valve stems +seals.


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## TomBurtonArt

froggystyle said:


> Any plans to swap the switches on the front, they look a bit naff, plus maybe give it a nice colour spray?


Not very keen on coloured machines, much prefer a brushed/mirror finish. I'd get the frame powder coated to preserve it.

Im quite keen on the original switches but the white ones are aftermarket replacements, may potentially swap for some replacement orginal ones depending on the cost to get it functioning.

The only real modification I'd like to make is to replace the plastic lid/drip tray eventually, but will need to source a sheet metal worker who would be able to fabricate one cheaply.


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## Instant no more !

You Sir are braver than I , I am a chicken with things like this


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## TomBurtonArt

Instant no more ! said:


> You Sir are braver than I , I am a chicken with things like this


Dived straight into the deep end with this, but it's a simple enough machine that has easy to source and easy to replace parts, just need to ensure I dont mess it up with rushing into things.


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## iroko

Good work, and thanks for pics. Great to see the refurb threads.


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## TomBurtonArt

While I'm waiting for replacement seals etc. I decided to tackle the E61.

Removed it very easily via 2 bolts in the back, after removing a very sticky and dirty showerhead and gasket I discovered that it was missing a diffuser plate.










Then, with my newly acquired 45mm adjustable wrench, i took to the 'mushroom' and the gubbins inside the group head... Queue my concerns over springs etc...

Well... That is until I got it open and found no springs... "Great" i thought...



















Then I looked at the manual...










NO SPRINGS?!?!?

Anywhoo.

With all the parts out, the main body went into cafiza to degunk.

'Mushroom' and other scaley parts go into citric (to be closely monitored for chrome problems)










Anyone shed any light on the E61 design?


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## El carajillo

TomBurtonArt said:


> While I'm waiting for replacement seals etc. I decided to tackle the E61.
> 
> Removed it very easily via 2 bolts in the back, after removing a very sticky and dirty showerhead and gasket I discovered that it was missing a diffuser plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with my newly acquired 45mm adjustable wrench, i took to the 'mushroom' and the gubbins inside the group head... Queue my concerns over springs etc...
> 
> Well... That is until I got it open and found no springs... "Great" i thought...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I looked at the manual...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NO SPRINGS?!?!?
> 
> Anywhoo.
> 
> With all the parts out, the main body went into cafiza to degunk.
> 
> 'Mushroom' and other scaley parts go into citric (to be closely monitored for chrome problems)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone shed any light on the E61 design?


NOPE:confused:


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> NOPE


Seems very odd to me, have posed this question to Pete at espresso underground but I suspect he wont be familiar with this machine either! Anyone here with a CMA/Astoria want to chime in???


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## El carajillo

After a little research it works by a 3 way solenoid valve in the small square box at the lower end (believe they are "Lucifer valves / Parker ) Operated by electro magnet.

Can be removed stripped and cleaned (with care)


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## TomBurtonArt

Ah yes, this is the case. There are 3 solenoids in the machine by the looks of things, when it came there was a missing solenoid which i purchased.


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## TomBurtonArt

Out of the Cafiza and into citric for the main body of the group head, the result is fantastic, there was scale on the outside of the grouphead aswell as internally!


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## 7493

Nice!


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## El carajillo

Looking good, making good progress:good:


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## Dylan

Very nice, that group head looks good as new!

I think it is just the lever e61 groups that contain springs.


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## GCGlasgow

Looking nice, can't wait to see it making a coffee


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## TomBurtonArt

Me too GCGlasglow! These seals are causing an issue, struggling to get them ordered anywhere!


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## El carajillo

Have you tried G E V Faema Parts. ?


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> Have you tried G E V Faema Parts. ?


I haven't but I'll take a look, thanks, I contacted Espresso underground a while back but have been waiting two weeks for them to source the specific seals etc, currently they are speaking to their Italian contacts regarding boiler components, however the cost seems to be quite high (from what I can tell from the website).

I have also been looking at eevad.com, a french company, seem to be very cheap and have a good range of espresso machine parts, they are also looking into parts for me.


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## Dylan

I think I may print off your photos to take to the chroming place when I get my group done to show them the coverage. You could see very thin chrome in places like where the shower screen sits when I took it in, but this makes it really clear what it should look like.

So thanks


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## TomBurtonArt

There is some thinning chrome underneath the main grouphead, it can be seen on the second picture where the L-01 is printed, it's clearly just warn away over time, getting knocked and wiped constantly.


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## TomBurtonArt

UPDATE:

Finally.

Got the parts needed for the grouphead, all besides the gauge teflon which I cannot identify from my bag of bits.










Bag of bits =










The whole thing came together, will probably need a new "mushroom" sooner or later as the plating has completely gone.

Look forward to getting the rest of it together at the weekend.










Oh, brass splinters are fun.


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## GCGlasgow

Was wondering where this was at...good to see the progress.


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## TomBurtonArt

Just a slow process getting hold of the correct seals. Could have just wrapped loads of tape around the joints (like the former owner did) but I wanted to do things properly!


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## Obnic

Love this thread. Fascinating.


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## Dylan

I wondered how much difference having a chromed mushroom makes... maybe it stops scale collecting on it quite so quickly.

In any case, you may find it cheaper to properly clean it and have it chromed. Minimum charges are usually around £30 but you might get someone do it for you for less as its so small. The mushrooms are £30 themselves from BB.


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## TomBurtonArt

Dylan said:


> I wondered how much difference having a chromed mushroom makes... maybe it stops scale collecting on it quite so quickly.
> 
> In any case, you may find it cheaper to properly clean it and have it chromed. Minimum charges are usually around £30 but you might get someone do it for you for less as its so small. The mushrooms are £30 themselves from BB.


I'm not sure of the benefit, the whole thing is made from brass and scale is just as likely to build up on pipework etc so I don't really understand it. I'm also led to believe that it's not actually chromed but just nickel plated which makes the whole thing less durable.

Possibly cheaper to get it replated/chromed, although I found them for around £12 from france.

Got gaskets and o-rings from these guys, postage cost is reasonable and quick, however I struggled with locating the specific parts for my machine.

http://www.eevad.com/product_info.php?products_id=106175


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## TomBurtonArt

Their customer service is very good too, and they have live chat and staff who speak a variety of languages. Impressed.


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## Rhys

Love owt like this, excellent thread and I expect will be well worth the effort put into it when it's all finished.


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## DannyMontez

Great job on this man! I loved refurbing my La Pavoni, perhaps I'll do something a bit more adventurous next time!


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## iroko

Thanks for update, coming along nicely.


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## TomBurtonArt

Started re-assembly and started using the seals and gaskets I purchached. Upon trying to reconnect some parts I noticed a load of thread sealant on threads, began gently scraping it out using a tiny screwdriver.

Only on doing this did I notice two parts with completely screwed (lol) threads.










One of the connectors which attaches to the side of the boiler










Safety valve which fits to the top of the boiler.

I also discovered a connection on the water inlet that appears to have some issues with the threads
























The connection wont thread into the female side beyond the point in the first photo, without some serious torque. Checked back over original photos and there was tonnes of PTFE tape around the joint which was in roughly the same position as the first photo. Doesn't seem right.










Any advice on this connection issue? Do I get a tap and die set and just retap the threads to ensure a proper seal?

Looks like I need to get a few parts before I progress. Again.


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## El carajillo

For cleaning the thread sealant the best thing is a stainless bristle scratch brush (AKA wire brush).

Presuming they are BSP. pipe threads you can obtain BSP DIE NUT. This looks like an ordinary nut but it is actually a die for cleaning up threads, I have one for cleaning up standard 1/2" / 15 mm pipe fittings when they are attached and cannot be moved. Just apply squarely to the thread and work forwards and back to clean the threads.

PS Are they BSP P = parallel threads OR are they BSP T = taper threads ? Measure accurately to find out. If you use a DIE nut or normal die you will recut to parallel thread.


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> For cleaning the thread sealant the best thing is a stainless bristle scratch brush (AKA wire brush).
> 
> Presuming they are BSP. pipe threads you can obtain BSP DIE NUT. This looks like an ordinary nut but it is actually a die for cleaning up threads, I have one for cleaning up standard 1/2" / 15 mm pipe fittings when they are attached and cannot be moved. Just apply squarely to the thread and work forwards and back to clean the threads.
> 
> PS Are they BSP P = parallel threads OR are they BSP T = taper threads ? Measure accurately to find out. If you use a DIE nut or normal die you will recut to parallel thread.


Thanks, got them all cleaned up now, took longer than it would have with a DIE nut or wire brush but all of the gunk is gone.

I am more concerned by the fitting at the end of my post, i assume the threads on the female part havent been cut normally judging by the look of the threads.

Not sure on the threads, will have to measure.


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## El carajillo

If you are referring to the thread further into where it appears to have a distinct flat on the apex. This is due to the thread being formed by a "lead" tap ( the first tap) which has a taper and ground off thread to enable the "tap" to start in the drilled hole. OR it could be for a tapered fitting.


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> If you are referring to the thread further into where it appears to have a distinct flat on the apex. This is due to the thread being formed by a "lead" tap ( the first tap) which has a taper and ground off thread to enable the "tap" to start in the drilled hole. OR it could be for a tapered fitting.


Hmm, the corrosponding male part doesn't appear to taper, so I wonder if it was just not cut properly in the factory.


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## TomBurtonArt

Starting to put it all back together. 3-5 wraps of PTFE on the fittings. Had to go a little overboard on the HX fitting at the bottom with the dodgy thread (replacement part would be £30). Looking foward to getting the replacement fittings I need and getting the hydraulics back together to test the water tightness/pressure.


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## TomBurtonArt

Starting to put the old girl back together. It's all extremely tight at the back. Have seen the pump oriented differently to free up more space but The piping might not fit if I went for this so decided to leave is it is. Everything needs a little tighten up then testing later in the week!!!


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## glevum

looking good, almost like new.


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## iroko

Thanks for update and pics, coming along nicely.


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## aaroncornish

Looks really good! What a labour of love. Will be worth it when it is done for sure


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## TomBurtonArt

First test...

LEAKS!!!!

A couple of joins I forgot to tighten up, had to add PTFE to a few non-compression joints too which seemed to sort these out for the time being.

E61 was leaking at the solenoid, I have a feeling this is due to the new teflon I added, may try it without it as it still has rubber o-rings which may be enough.

Element didn't appear to be heating up, no heat from the boiler at all after 5 mins. Must double check the wiring, probably order another to be sure.

Water flows through the grouphead and through the water tap, no pressure registering on the valve, I imagine this is because of the temp.

Every HX joint on the boiler leaks, I hoped the copper compression gaskets would be enough but it looks like I'll have to replace these and double up with PTFE.


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## El carajillo

When I questioned you about totally immersing the boiler to descale, this was what I was concerned about, that moisture would creep into element insulation and short it out. If you remove it and slowly "roast" it you may be able to drive the moisture out.


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## Dylan

El carajillo said:


> When I questioned you about totally immersing the boiler to descale, this was what I was concerned about, that moisture would creep into element insulation and short it out. If you remove it and slowly "roast" it you may be able to drive the moisture out.


If the element was shorting out I would imagine there to be some more obvious signs something was awry... tripping/blowing circuits and or smoke kind of thing?


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> When I questioned you about totally immersing the boiler to descale, this was what I was concerned about, that moisture would creep into element insulation and short it out. If you remove it and slowly "roast" it you may be able to drive the moisture out.


I didn't immerse the boiler with the element in place, the element was removed and descaled seperately with the top part above water level.

It still might be that moisture has gotten into the element though.


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## TomBurtonArt

New element arrived, fitted it and sealed up the obvious leaks with PTFE, still getting no obvious heat so I am suspecting there is some faulty wiring.

No pressure reading on the guage but I imagine this is because there is no heat...


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## aaroncornish

Oh no! What a nightmare. Better get yourself a multimeter. Are there any obvious looking loose connections or anything/

Aaron


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## Dylan

Surprised you replaced the element without testing it with a multimeter first, you can waste a lot of money guessing at what is wrong.

Get a multimeter and follow the power, this will allow you to pinpoint what needs replacing.

Also does the pump kick in when when you turn on the water tap? I thought most machines sent water from the boiler to the tap and used the pressure of the boiler to expel it.


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## El carajillo

Buy or borrow a test meter, remove terminals from the element, switch meter to high volts, connect meter to cable terminals (ensure no metal touching earth) switch on M/ch. Do you have voltage ? what is it ? NO voltage







switch off and unplug M/ch, use meter in ohms /continuity mode to trace cables for faults.

Take care using resistance around ELECTRONICS you can fry them. Test both elements in resistance mode and compare results.


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## kadeshuk

Maplins here he comes !!


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## TomBurtonArt

kadeshuk said:


> Maplins here he comes !!


Haha, I bought one from there before, it was broken before it left the box.

My Pa has one i'll steal.


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## TomBurtonArt

Dylan said:


> Surprised you replaced the element without testing it with a multimeter first, you can waste a lot of money guessing at what is wrong.
> 
> Get a multimeter and follow the power, this will allow you to pinpoint what needs replacing.
> 
> Also does the pump kick in when when you turn on the water tap? I thought most machines sent water from the boiler to the tap and used the pressure of the boiler to expel it.


Pump kicks in and water flows through the tap without a problem and flows through the grouphead when switched on too.

Will get on to it with a multimeter at the weekend.


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## GCGlasgow

Waiting with anticipation to see the first coffee made with the machine...great project to undertake and even enjoying watching the progress.


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## aaroncornish

How are you getting on Tom! Any updates?

Aaron


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## El carajillo

Come on Tom ,you cannot keep us in suspense


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## Rhys

Interesting anticipation time...


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## TomBurtonArt

aaroncornish said:


> How are you getting on Tom! Any updates?
> 
> Aaron





El carajillo said:


> Come on Tom ,you cannot keep us in suspense





Rhys said:


> Interesting anticipation time...


Drumroll please....


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## TomBurtonArt

I would like to present to you all a piece by Tom Burton










Title...

"A job for tomorrow"


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## aaroncornish

Fantastic stuff! No self respecting meddler should be without a multimeter


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## TomBurtonArt

aaroncornish said:


> Fantastic stuff! No self respecting meddler should be without a multimeter


I have no self respect. It's you pesky meddling lot that are forcing me to do things right!


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## TomBurtonArt

I HAVE HEAT!!!!

My own stupid fault, my photographs of the wiring werent up to scratch and I misplaced a connection on the pressure reg.

Getting a bit of spluttering from the safety valve and have a loose steam valve connection at the moment.

Also a small leak from the plastic tubing which feeds the OPV adjuster. Still some work to be done.


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## Dylan

Great stuff.

Plus you have a spare element should it ever blow


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## TomBurtonArt

Fixed the steam leak, I simply hadnt fully tightened the connection. Got another little leak spring up at 1Bar boiler pressure, will tighten that up and see if that helps.

Biggest issue is this... I don't know if I missed it or ignored it....










Big ol' crack in a fitting collar. i'll probably be able to just replace the bottom part locally and keep the top to fix back together. The bloody thing is in the most awkward flipping spot to loosen and tighten without removing everything else from around it.

Steam is good. Heated a pitcher of water in 25 secs and the machine wasnt even fully up to temp.


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## TomBurtonArt

SHE'S ALIVE!!! ALIVE!!!!!!!

Managed to source a replacement part for the cracked valve fitting and replaced today. Still have spluttering from the Anti-Eddy valve dont know how to solve this...

Also a small weep from the plastic tubing will try and source replacement fittings or repair.


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## hotmetal

Hahaha brilliant! That's a serious beast you have there. Well done for fixing it yourself. I'm hoping I never have to undertake such a task.


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## aaroncornish

Awesome work Tom! Great progress


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## TomBurtonArt

Tantalisingly close to coffee now!


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## El carajillo

The cracked fitting looks like a reducer to accommodate the valve into the boiler, for the plastic tube leak you may be able to cut off the end and fit a new olive. Measure the pipe and try hydraulic /pneumatic supplies .


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> The cracked fitting looks like a reducer to accommodate the valve into the boiler, for the plastic tube leak you may be able to cut off the end and fit a new olive. Measure the pipe and try hydraulic /pneumatic supplies .


I managed to source a new reducer today and replaced it without issue. Having some spluttering on the top of the valve when the machine is getting up to temp.

Gonna have a go at putting new olives on the fittings, I have replacement tubing but couldnt figure out how to remove the old tubing and olives from the threaded fittings.

Cheers.


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## El carajillo

Overtightening distorts the olive/ pipe, easiest way is disconnect from M/ch, cut off pipe behind the nut and then carefully push /drive out with a drift /punch.


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## degsey

Great work going on there. This has got me thinking I'd love to try doing the same but got too many unfinished projects going on at present.

Well done that man.


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## TomBurtonArt

Got a little sizzler coming up from the threads of the safety valve, creating a little steam and an annoying noise.

More little tweaks. :-(


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## espressotechno

White teflon tape is your friend.....

It's normal for the anti-vac valve to hiss & spit a little, until the steam pressure builds up enough to close it. If it then still leaks steam, a new a/v valve is quite cheap.


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## TomBurtonArt

espressotechno said:


> White teflon tape is your friend.....
> 
> It's normal for the anti-vac valve to hiss & spit a little, until the steam pressure builds up enough to close it. If it then still leaks steam, a new a/v valve is quite cheap.


Yeah been using teflon, you can see the ends of the tape in the pics, the safety valve is my issue, leaking at the threads will need taking out


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## TomBurtonArt

Really gutted. Just took the brand new safety valve off to try and seal the leak, discovered that I've somehow managed to strip the threads. Really frustrating.

Not sure if the part is simply a 1/4" male to 1/8" male or If i'm going to need an entirely new safety valve.



























Also concerned that brass shards might have gotten into the boiler and I'll somehow have to get them out.


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## DannyMontez

So close now! It does look like you have quite badly cross threaded that so a new one would best I think!


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## TomBurtonArt

Definately need a new bit. Just going to have a proper inspection of the boiler thread to see if that is the issue


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## DannyMontez

If you're having trouble with PTFE tape have you considered this? It's very good and you need very little to get a water tight seal. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Pipe-Sealing-Thread-Water/dp/B00FB81F4Q/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1428858587&sr=8-8&keywords=loctite+thread+tape


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## El carajillo

Tom that component is a male hexagon nipple, rather than parallel thread it could be BSP union thread=parallel to BSP taper male thread 60 deg cone.

Check the boiler thread for parallel or taper.

They are available as 1/4" X 1/8". Yorkshire pipe fitting No 70 GHD


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> Tom that component is a male hexagon nipple, rather than parallel thread it could be BSP union thread=parallel to BSP taper male thread 60 deg cone.
> 
> Check the boiler thread for parallel or taper.
> 
> They are available as 1/4" X 1/8". Yorkshire pipe fitting No 70 GHD


Cheers, i'll investigate the boiler. Frustratingly there are only 3 threads on the boiler so it is difficult to see a lot of difference to work out if its parralel or taper.

This is the replacement safety valve which I purchased through Pennine, bit gutted if it is the wrong thread that they are selling.


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## El carajillo

Just checked, the thread is 1/8" BSP==parallel. Boiler thread is 1/8"BSP /parallel.

Is that piece an adaptor OR is it part of the valve ?


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> Just checked, the thread is 1/8" BSP==parallel. Boiler thread is 1/8"BSP /parallel.
> 
> Is that piece an adaptor OR is it part of the valve ?


It's the bottom part of the valve :-/


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## El carajillo

Is there sufficient "metal" left around the boiler tapping to allow you to tap it out to 1/4 BSP and use a 1/4" BSP male X 1/8" BSP female adaptor to accept the valve thread. ?


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> Is there sufficient "metal" left around the boiler tapping to allow you to tap it out to 1/4 BSP and use a 1/4" BSP male X 1/8" BSP female adaptor to accept the valve thread. ?










it's all a bit tight around there


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## El carajillo

Your other alternative is to buy a "HELICOIL" thread repair kit, this inserts a S/S spring insert into the thread to replace the damage.

A single 1/8" BSP kit is AP £27.00 delivered. This includes a special tap, tool for inserting the H/coil and the H/coils (ap 10 No.


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## aaroncornish

Worried by the radio silence Tom! Hope you got it sorted ok.


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## TomBurtonArt

aaroncornish said:


> Worried by the radio silence Tom! Hope you got it sorted ok.


Apologies, just no updates. Hit a sticking point, really frustrated that i'll have to take the whole thing apart to sort the threads out.

Frustrated and skint.

I think i've hit a patch of bad luck. Some people have all the luck... Don't they E8rroncornish.


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## aaroncornish

TomBurtonArt said:


> Apologies, just no updates. Hit a sticking point, really frustrated that i'll have to take the whole thing apart to sort the threads out.
> 
> Frustrated and skint.
> 
> I think i've hit a patch of bad luck. Some people have all the luck... Don't they E8rroncornish.


Don't be disheartened, it will be worth it, and you will appreciate it all the more for it.

I know, I think I will buy a Euro millions ticket too! (ps. sorry)


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## TomBurtonArt

Haha, no need to apologise.

Congratulations, looks like a real nice piece of (working) kit!


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## El carajillo

Take heart Tom , look at all that you have achieved already:good:


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## Rhys

At least you'll know the machine inside out when you've finished.. Will be worth it in the end.


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## TomBurtonArt

Cheers Frank, I had a look at the helicoil option which might be best although I'm concerned about the watertightness when introducing a coil because there is another connection, or is the process of tapping and fitting the coil enough to create a seal?

Is this the kit you mentioned?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331303886716


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## El carajillo

They are also used to replace damaged threads in cylinder heads when spark plug threads have stripped and many other applications.

Being subjected to heat /expansion and pressure I would think they would be OK for your purpose.

Contact the company and seek their advice.


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## TomBurtonArt

^^^^^^^



El carajillo said:


> Take heart Tom , look at all that you have achieved already:good:


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## TomBurtonArt

El carajillo said:


> They are also used to replace damaged threads in cylinder heads when spark plug threads have stripped and many other applications.
> 
> Being subjected to heat /expansion and pressure I would think they would be OK for your purpose.
> 
> Contact the company and seek their advice.


Cheers, i'll get in touch.

Thank you.


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## TomBurtonArt

I bought a set of 1/8" BSP taps in order to check the threads as a last resort before I moved to the helicoil.

The taps run through the threads without a problem whatsoever. I have a feeling that the safety valve I used had tapered threads and locked up, when I forced it to tighten the threads must have stripped. Looks like I might just need the right safety valve... Pillock.


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## kadeshuk

Phew !! I keep looking in on your thread and having nothing but admiration for you, Tom. Sending you all the positive thought I can !!


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## TomBurtonArt

Thanks Neil, your positivity is appreciated.

Does anyone know of an effective way I can flush any debris from the boiler without dismantling entirely?


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## Rhys

TomBurtonArt said:


> Thanks Neil, your positivity is appreciated.
> 
> Does anyone know of an effective way I can flush any debris from the boiler without dismantling entirely?


That's the problem, don't know if a fish tank syphon cleaner will fit - or actually do the job? (one of those you fit an air pump to so the bubbles drive the muck up the spout) or an air compressor gun? Sounds like it's a strip down


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## El carajillo

I think the strip down is your best/ most effective method. I do not think the "air pump" job would work, I think these work on the same principle as air lifts used in diving, air injected into the lift hose expands as it rises through the water column drawing the debris upwards.I do not think the depth of water in the boiler would give sufficient lift.

If you filled the boiler and fitted two pipes (securely) , one going to the bottom of the boiler at one end and open to the air.

The other pipe /fitting to allow you to introduce air in to the boiler via a car type tyre compressor/ inflator, this would force the water up the open tube ( tilting the boiler to move debris to lowest point)


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## aaroncornish

How is it going Tom


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## TomBurtonArt

Stagnant. Going to get this safety valve ordered soon.


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## TomBurtonArt

Safety valve is on it's way out to me. Might be able to get this show back on the road.


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## El carajillo

Looking forward to next stage


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## Spooks

TomBurtonArt said:


> Safety valve is on it's way out to me. Might be able to get this show back on the road.


Glad to hear it, was worried you had abandoned this project.


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## TomBurtonArt

Fitted the new safety valve, i tightened finger tight and a 1/4 turn to avoid damaging the threads and it seems to be sealed up. Although not entirely threaded in.









Still have to sort the leaks on the tubing for which i'll need new olives but decided it was time to test it out. Still had spluttering and steam leaking from the Anti-eddy, when it got up to temp (after 30mins) it stopped though.










Not great espresso, over extracted, but I have produced my first drink with the machine. Not used to the steam wand yet! Got bubble bath bubbles.


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## TomBurtonArt

My chin/beard isn't as long as it appears in the reflection of the E61


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## aaroncornish

Woohoo! Glad to see this back on track


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## jeebsy

Amazing! Must feel great to get coffee out it


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## iroko

Good work,


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## Daren

TomBurtonArt said:


> My chin/beard isn't as long as it appears in the reflection of the E61


I'm gutted - you were a contender for my best Jimmy Hill look-a-like competition.

Good work on the machine though


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## GCGlasgow

Well done great to see coffee coming from it, certainly plenty of effort put in. Great to watch.


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## TomBurtonArt

Managed to remove the olives from the silicone tube fittings using El Car's technique, need to locate some replacements tomorrow to fit to the new tubing I have.

Got a replacement anti-vac valve on it's way to resolve the spluttering.

This machine might be Trigger's broom soon but at least it'll be working.

Anyone got any ruined grinders for me to turn my attention to next?


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## froggystyle

TomBurtonArt said:


> Anyone got any ruined grinders for me to turn my attention to next?


http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?24444-Your-opinion-on-these-burrs


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## TomBurtonArt

Back together now and getting a test run.










Final fitting was this silicone tubing, had an issue with water seeping from the connection, fitted new olives and seems to have stemmed the flow. But need to keep an eye on it.










Testing was ok, temp from the HX hot water tap is ranging between 120f and 140f which seems a little cool for me. The rotary motor seems loud too, causing lots of vibration, any suggestions?











Yes you can laugh at me fumbling with the steam knob.






And yes that is a vase as an external water tank. This machine is very thirsty! I have to fill up the tank sooooo often!


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## GCGlasgow

Great work Tom, must be satisfying restoring a machine back to working order.


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## glevum

Looking good.Well done.


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## glevum

From the vid's it does sound like a Vibratory pump


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## TomBurtonArt

glevum said:


> From the vid's it does sound like a Vibratory pump


It's just a very vibratory rotary pump.

Might need to create something to muffle the sound


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## matharon

Hi Tom,

Followed thread with great interest - well done.

I note you replaced the anti vac valve.

I have similar machine that has just started leaking from this when heating up, have stripped and descaled a couple of times but still leaking - if I hold finger over hole to allow pressure to build and then release it pops up and seals.

Initially i thought it was an auto air bleed valve but it does not seem to "float" on the water hence leak.

In the absence of any advice elsewhere I think a replacement is easiest way forward.

Could you please let me know best source for this part.

Thanks


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## TomBurtonArt

matharon said:


> Hi Tom,
> 
> Followed thread with great interest - well done.
> 
> I note you replaced the anti vac valve.
> 
> I have similar machine that has just started leaking from this when heating up, have stripped and descaled a couple of times but still leaking - if I hold finger over hole to allow pressure to build and then release it pops up and seals.
> 
> Initially i thought it was an auto air bleed valve but it does not seem to "float" on the water hence leak.
> 
> In the absence of any advice elsewhere I think a replacement is easiest way forward.
> 
> Could you please let me know best source for this part.
> 
> Thanks


For a direct replacement I found eevad which is a french site to be the cheapest and stock all of the parts that you may need for Wegas but can take a while to arrive if parts aren't in stock.

Alternatively Pennine Tea and Coffee also stock the part but postage is pricey.

Thanks for following.


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## matharon

Many thanks - have ordered from Pennine plus a naked portafilter


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## TomBurtonArt

Final update. The olives I bought for the silicone tubing seemed to seal it up initially but after a couple of weeks began to seep. I purchased a complete replacement pipe with the correct fittings (seems to have some brass tubing which pushes inside the silicone tube then compression on the end.

Fitted this today and have no issues, the vibration in my earlier video I discovered is coming from the hot water tap touching the side of the casing, I may end up buying a longer tap to resolve this but a gentle manipulation on the pipework seems to have resolved most of the noise.

Everything is sealed and so it's finally time to close her up!










Ive been using it along the way and still not used to the pressure and 5-hole steam tip, may end up modding down to a single tip if I can't get nice texture in small jugs.

The espresso is better than my classic, but need to get a better grinder to get the most out of the machine now!

Thanks for following!


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## bronc

Looking great! Good job


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## jeebsy

Got a nice retro look to it, handsome machine


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## TomBurtonArt

jeebsy said:


> Got a nice retro look to it, handsome machine


Cheers. Unfortunately the ABS top is cracked so i'm likely to look into getting a stainless one fabricated in the future. Perhaps a replacement drip tray too.

Might end up looking a little more like this model


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## TomBurtonArt

Just done my first boiler and HX descale since having the machine up and running. Struggled with the concept of having a solenoid based hot water tap & grouphead and being able to empty the boiler with the machine turned off.

Ended up having to disconnect the water level probe and open up the steam valve and use the pump to run lots of citric into the system to try and replace the existing boiler water, pulled citric into the HX, hot water system and E61, turned off and left at temp for 20 mins.

Then flushed the whole system repeating the process with about 10 litres of water.

Had a few squirts of water from the anti-pressure valve on the over fill then had a sizzle coming from somewhere, which I identified to be from the element, a tighten up with a wrench and I was sizzle free. I imagine the descale probably loosened the seal on the element.

Stressful trial and error descale but will be more confident with my maintainance now.


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