# RR55-OD grinding no static and nice fluffy grinds



## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

As the title says


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## Soll (Nov 10, 2013)

Very nice Charlie and to think I could have had one of Coffeechaps, I opted for the MazzerSJ which I have no complaints regarding the grind quality but the thwacking is getting on my nerves a bit and my good lady to, so I can see me upgrading in the near future. Do you have any issue's with the RR55 ?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

What bean was that ? As with all OD grinders , how fluffy and clumpy they are depend on the fineness you have them set at and the type of bean being ground .


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Martin,

That one was a relatively light roast Brazilian from Roberts and was dialled in as a pretty fine grind, but again never had any clumping issued with darker roasts/ finer grinds either. The anti-static and declumping device is pretty simple. it's that thin metal flap I have extended a little with a grind path that has a straight through exit from the burrs to the flap.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Charlie that looks about just perfect.

Better than what I'm getting......far more clinging to the funnel than what's dispensed in the portafilter.

View attachment 5473


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Is that flap over the exit from the burrs metal or plastic? It's metal on mine extended with the aluminium tape.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Plastic, I'm going to get a can of beer drink it then cut out a new flap wire wool it to within an inch of its life and screw it on.

That should do it........shouldn't it?


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## drude (Apr 22, 2013)

Mine is also modded like Charlie's (courtesy of Bubbajvegas, who's gone awfully quiet these days) and produces similarly clean results. Definitely worth doing.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Where has BUBBA gone ??? Very quiet:confused:


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

Enjoying his Bosco


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Pompeyexile said:


> Plastic, I'm going to get a can of beer drink it then cut out a new flap wire wool it to within an inch of its life and screw it on.
> 
> That should do it........shouldn't it?


Exactly what I did.... but didn't make a great deal of difference for me


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

I saw your mod Marcus so what is so different between yours and Charlie's, do you think it's the famous magic tape?

Whatever it is it's damn impressive, slipping straight down as though the funnel is Teflon coated and not a stray grind to be seen.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Marcus' RR55 had the plastic flap like yours, the one Pete (Drude) has came with a metal plate fixed as standard as did mine I just extended mine with the tape to the right. I can't see any other differences having had Marcus' grinder in front of me and stripped down to a degree maybe we need to light the Chapsignal to summon him for some advice lol.


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## drude (Apr 22, 2013)

Mine also has the tape to the right


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks guys, in that case aluminium tin and tape it is (I guess the metal plate is aluminium). I'll let you know how I get on.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

I couldn't honestly tell you what the plate on mine is made from I'll hunt around for a magnet and see if it's a ferrous metal or not once I find one.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Charliej said:


> Marcus' RR55 had the plastic flap like yours, the one Pete (Drude) has came with a metal plate fixed as standard as did mine I just extended mine with the tape to the right. I can't see any other differences having had Marcus' grinder in front of me and stripped down to a degree maybe we need to light the Chapsignal to summon him for some advice lol.


Charlie,

Yes mine did originally have a green plastic plastic flap that you then wrapped in the aluminium tape, but even wrapped in tape it exhibited the static problem. I replaced the tape wrapped flap with a flap made from a beer can but it made no real difference for me.

The flap made from an aluminium beer can looks and "feels" just like the one you have on yours so I suspect its the same think aluminium sheet.

At the moment I'm waiting going to wait for the replacement burrs and see if they help.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Its a real shame that we never managed to run some coffee beans through my grinder while I was at Charlie's. Would have been very interesting to see if the static is beans/humidity related or is specifically something with the grinder itself.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

You're more than welcome to bring it over again sometime just to see.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks for the offer Charlie... you're such a generous soul









I think for the sake of everyone else (as much as me) we really should try and find the answer to this puzzling issue









We may as well wait for my new burrs arrive and be fitted just to see if they do make any difference, but if no better I think we should organise ourselves a mini grind off at yours









If you're up for it then it would be really good to try them side by side with the same beans. We could try swapping various parts to see what difference (if any) it makes i.e. swap the flap, swap the funnel, swap the burrs maybe just to try an isolate the culprit (if any) causing the static (I wonder if its the motor or some slight electritrickey leakage ?). I fully understand if you don't want to go this far as it would involve you messing around with your grinder that's working perfectly for you.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Well I'm going to be putting my new burrs in shortly anyway and they are identical to the ones I ordered for you, I know the ones you had in it and the ones I gave you are the ones with 12 bean breaking surfaces which are originally intended for the dosered versions of the RR45 ,55 and 65 none of which have the flexible flap over the exit chute, just that plastic gubbins inside like the one I showed you.

Some input from Coffeechap would be useful as he sold Pompeyexile his grinder to see if it was behaving that way at his place.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

A quick video showing how my RR55OD , unlike Charlie's , sticks the coffee to the inside of the dispenser funnel.


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## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Looking at the 2 videos, 2 observations.

Charlie - youre not single dosing?

Marcus - You are?

Marcus you seem to be grinding mega fine, whereas charlie isnt


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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

Marcus, I used to get similar results in my HG One and for me, the way around it was to weigh the beans into a cup or similar, then add 3 drops of water from a pipette before I chucked it in to be ground. Try it and see what happens!


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

The speed at which the grinds in Marcus' video are coming out would suggest that things are much, much finer than in Charlie's. In the second video it almost sounds like the Burrs are touching with that high pitched sound going on. Could just be different video/audio capture methods though.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Well dfk being a beginner and still trying to get my grind right I've had course and fine and usually double shots and every one has stuck like poo to a blanket. Haven't tried the water trick though so I'll give that a go too. But I will change the plastic flap to aluminium first as everything I've read indicates plastic and static go together like fish and chips.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

garydyke1 said:


> Looking at the 2 videos, 2 observations.
> 
> Charlie - youre not single dosing?
> 
> ...


Nope I'm not single dosing the lens hood hopper and throat between them hold around 125g give or take, there is no point in trying to single dose a grinder like this I tried it, it pissed me off I gave up, I just top the "hopper" up in the morning and as I go throughout the day a quick pulse with the 1 cup button clears the chute before making the 1st of the day. I'm grinding fairly fine but not as fine as I could, I have been nutating with this particular bean before I tamp. Marcus's video look infinitely better than 'Pompeyexile's picture though.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

garydyke1 said:


> Looking at the 2 videos, 2 observations.
> 
> Charlie - youre not single dosing?
> 
> ...


As far as I know, both myself and Charlie as not single dosing, but loading a small quantity of beans into the grinder throat via a camera lens hood.

I think you're correct that I'm grinding finer, but this is how fine I had to set it in order to get a reasonable extraction in 25seconds.



dfk41 said:


> Marcus, I used to get similar results in my HG One and for me, the way around it was to weigh the beans into a cup or similar, then add 3 drops of water from a pipette before I chucked it in to be ground. Try it and see what happens!


Thanks dfk41, I've read about this technique but as I'm not single dosing it's difficult to judge the number of drops. I'll try clearing out the beans and single dosing later.



Xpenno said:


> The speed at which the grinds in Marcus' video are coming out would suggest that things are much, much finer than in Charlie's. In the second video it almost sounds like the Burrs are touching with that high pitched sound going on. Could just be different video/audio capture methods though.


Thanks for the suggestion Xpenno, I'll double check the burr settings later.


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## Xpenno (Nov 12, 2012)

marcuswar said:


> As far as I know, both myself and Charlie as not single dosing, but loading a small quantity of beans into the grinder throat via a camera lens hood.
> 
> I think you're correct that I'm grinding finer, but this is how fine I had to set it in order to get a reasonable extraction in 25seconds.
> 
> ...


Just out of interest does it get better if you do open up the grind?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Xpenno said:


> Just out of interest does it get better if you do open up the grind?


Tried opening up the grind (by 5 and then 10 clicks!) and it still sticks... if anything it's worse as it doesn't slide out as easily when I tap the funnel.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

So like Marcus I too have tried experimenting with a different flap over the exit shute.

I was thinking metal and wondering round B&Q thought I spotted the answer......Copper! Or to be precise copper tags that gardeners use for labelling plants. Thin enough to bend and pierce and mould into a shape that would act as a spout and hopefully anti-static.

View attachment 5508


So there it is even with the tail that would normally stick into the potting compost curved to help direct the grinds.

Well it worked about as well as sticking a cork in the side of the Titanic to stop the water getting in. Yes the grinds didn't stick to the whole of the funnel this time because the copper guard stopped the wide angled throw of the burrs but they still stuck down the centre and piled up like a snow drift on top of each other dropping very little into the portafilter.

Back to the drawing board but I must admit I'm keen to know what exactly Charlie's cover is made of that makes his static free. That's of course if it is the cover doing it and not something else.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Nice try pompeyexile, shame it didn't offer a complete cure, I guess your now in the same boat as me









My experiments are on hold until I get my new burrs from Charliej.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Pompeyexile said:


> ... I'm keen to know what exactly Charlie's cover is made of that makes his static free. That's of course if it is the cover doing it and not something else.


I'm 99% sure its aluminium as it "feels" and sounds (when flicked) the same as the one I made from a beer can. Personally, I'm not convinced that the flap has anything to do with it other than to restrict the angle of the spray of coffee.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Something that cropped up in another thread was something Coffeechap had mentioned which is some of it can depend on how well your house/flats electrics are earthed. My landlord is an electrical so I know that everything is well done and up to current code. It's certainly got me puzzled as mine came with the metal flap and was straight out of a failed cafe venture hence the cheap price I got mine for. I've never had any static problems with any grinder I've owned other than a Cuisinart one I was bought one Xmas by a well intentioned relative which I used for FP and Moka pot for a while until it pissed me off too much and got given away that used to have grounds stuck all over the plastic container it ground into but a sharp tap on the worktop loosened a lot of it, and having looked at the internals of that I think it generated masses of static simply due to it's design.

I guess the only way we can move on with this is for Marcus to bring his grinder over sometime and set it up next to mine and plugged into the same power supply then we'll know if earthing is the answer.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Come on Marcus in the name of science.......or rather my sanity give Charlie a visit and lets put this to bed.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

I guess I better whack my new burrs in as well so that can be ruled out as any part of the problem too, I should have the group buy stuff by Tuesday and will need some time to sort through and package it all, as the package is 26.4 kilos in weight. Getting it up the stairs into the flat is going to be fun lol.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

No problem with lugging it over to Charlie's again. I'd like to get to the bottom of this mystery as much as anyone. As I said previously I think I may as well wait for the new burrs first but if that fails I'm definitely up for teaming up with Charlie to try and sort this out.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

I'll fit my new burrs at the same time as you fit yours so mine will have had a little more coffee through them but not by much, so that way they both have the same burr set installed in order to make things as close as possible I guess we need to get some beans so both grinders have the same in as well.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Charliej said:


> I'll fit my new burrs at the same time as you fit yours so mine will have had a little more coffee through them but not by much, so that way they both have the same burr set installed in order to make things as close as possible I guess we need to get some beans so both grinders have the same in as well.


I'll bring the beans I'm using as that way we know that those beans did cause me issues. It was "Italian Job" I was using but I've used that up now but I'm sure "fudge" was the same and I've still got 0.5kg of that left.

I might bring the MDF along as well as a control grinder


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

So Charlie was using a dark Italian roast , Marcus and Pompey what were you using again?


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

I was using Fudge from Rave although even when I tried Rave signature that stuck too.

I guess to some this may seem trivial and will just say give the funnel a whack or brush the grinds down but when you see the Nirvana of static-less grinds is actually not a myth as Charliej has proven; you can't help wanting it too.


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

That was actually a medium/light roasted Brazilian from Roberts in the video


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Come on Charlie tell us your secret


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

He's grinding coarser for a darker bean? He is anti static ? Pompey is full of electric ?


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

Guys in my view the issue is a combo of factors. Yes modding the exit really helps but it won't cure all the probs if your electrics (like mine) are a bit old/crap and impart a lot of static.

I've been having a play with mine today and I have realised that the fact that it throws grinds hard right (as you look at the exit) means you will always get a build up left behind in the exit which needs brushing out if you are a single doser like me

So I taped the flap so it was no longer covering the exit and this really helped prevent a build up but I still had a lot of grinds clinging to the inside of the Shute and I also noted again as I often do a lot of particles flying about left right and upwards clearly charged and clinging to whatever it can

I wonder if adding another ground/earth to the external body might help

I think I might remove the flap altogether as it only seems to serve to cause the exit to back up with grinds. By the way this is made of a plastic type material on mine not alu as on others


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Mrboots2u said:


> He's grinding coarser for a darker bean? He is anti static ? Pompey is full of electric ?


Martin see above it was actually a fairly light roast.

Cam you aren't making the best use of the grinder by single dosing it, it works far better and more consistently with a little load on the burrs the mini hopper/lens hood I'll be sending you holds 90-100g of coffee and I top up as I go, it works far better that way, the weight on the burrs also means it doesn't back up as can be seen in my video and the timed dose is always pretty consistent. The solution to the grounds flying to right as you look at it is to extend the flap to the right, if you remove it all together you could end up with a face full of grounds.

Could everyone check their grinders label for the year of manufacture I'm interested in why some have the different flaps, I know 100% mine was never modified before I bought it as it had come out of a failed cafe and the owner had purchased it new from Caffe Society who were the Brasilia distributors for the UK until the untimely demise of Brasilia/Rossi.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Here is the label on mine I think it was made 2011

View attachment 5516


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## drude (Apr 22, 2013)

Mine was made in 2009.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Mine was made in 2010


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

Charlie I know what you mean but I like to swap between different coffees and decaf also

Mine is a 2011 by the way

Lastly for those who have removed the big black plastic insert that bolts in on either side of the funnel and has its own articulated flap, mine is broken and can't be fixed. If anyone doesn't want theirs anymore can I have your or buy your off you if surplus to requirements please?


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

CamV6 said:


> Charlie I know what you mean but I like to swap between different coffees and decaf also
> 
> Mine is a 2011 by the way
> 
> Lastly for those who have removed the big black plastic insert that bolts in on either side of the funnel and has its own articulated flap, mine is broken and can't be fixed. If anyone doesn't want theirs anymore can I have your or buy your off you if surplus to requirements please?


It's a total waste of time anyway that piece and far better off without it, in a dosered version it's what houses the micro switch so in the OD model totally surplus to requirements. I took the one from mine off along with the tamper and stuck them in a ziploc bag somewhere.


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

I know but I was wanting to try removing the small plastic flap and just relying on the big rigid one (oo er missus) to stop and grinds flying up

If you don't want to keep yours might I relieve you of it by any chance?


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

When I 1st got mine I had a good play around and one of the things I did was remove the flap over the exit chute and leave the plastic thing in place, the result was grounds everywhere as it's too far away from the chute to be of much use, as by the time the coffee gets that far it's already a pretty wide spray pattern due to the shape of the exit from the burrs.

Just checked and mine is a 2009 model, so it would seem something changed between 2009 and 2010 and looks like the metal flap was swapped for a plastic one.


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

I just don't like the concept of taping down the Shute to the right I the direction of flow as it just seems to me it will cause the dreaded build up of grind in the exit hole and associated clumping. I guess I'll just have to give it a try but I'd also like to have ago at fabricating a sort of upside down L shaped flap to be held in place by one or both of the screws that currently hold the 'crap flap'


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

CamV6 said:


> I just don't like the concept of taping down the Shute to the right I the direction of flow as it just seems to me it will cause the dreaded build up of grind in the exit hole and associated clumping. I guess I'll just have to give it a try but I'd also like to have ago at fabricating a sort of upside down L shaped flap to be held in place by one or both of the screws that currently hold the 'crap flap'


You don't actually tape the flap down you just extend it to the right. Take the flap off and wrap some tape round the right hand side trying to keep the bit where the tape end and sticks to itself on the side of the flap facing you. I've used aluminium tape off ebay as my MK2 version I used electrical tape the 1st time but shiny tape appealed my sense of aesthetics more.


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

Hmm I see.

I had my first go at 'engineering' a metal flap cunningly engineered out of a bit of the tin of orangina I drank earlier tonight. I might say I did all of this before I read your reply about the tape.

its a couple of mm bigger on either side than the original flap. I tried it as per the original shape of the flap, bent away a bit and taped to the right.

none of them were really satisfactory but mainly because the shute was so filled with static that everything just stuck to it like it was being painted on. AAARRRGGGH

Of all of them the second test gave the best results save for the grinds adhering to the shute (did I say AAARRRGGGH already?)

I will try again tomorrow with a flap cut extended to the right. for the meantine here is a pic of my fabrication skills of the final taped down version. The wife is very happy she got an unexpected decaf latte so late at night so that's one bonus at least!


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

Ok I couldn't leave it alone.

Here is a pic of my V1 mod un taped and then a pic of the V2 I have just expertly fabricated out of the finest materials using all my skill and expertise. I shall try V2 tomorrow and report back.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

This morning I tried running an earth wire from my grinder's funnel (put it through the funnel lid screw hole and twisted it back on itself) to a copper pipe on a nearby radiator (I know my central heating is earthed) just to see if that would get rid of the static, effectively grounding it.....I think.

Result.......Nada! Zilch! Diddly squat! Bugger all! Still stuck to the funnel like you know what to a blanket. Cross that one off the list.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I'm sure the "secret" is to not build up the static in the first place, rather than trying to ground (pun) it. away

I wonder if Charlie's point about electricity supply has some merit? I also wonder if it might be down to how many volts your supply is that may effect how fast the motor runs.. maybe slightly slower is less static ?

I know my electricity voltage is on the high side, ranging from 240v to 250v. Maybe Charlie's voltage is lower e.g. 220-230v and this is enough that motor runs marginally slower and generates less static ?


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Having also received my new multimeter today I shall measure the voltage to see.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Who could believe voltage would make such a difference


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

It's either that or one of you had been struck by lightening.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Charliej said:


> Having also received my new multimeter today I shall measure the voltage to see.


You'll probably need to take a few readings throughout the day as the voltages will vary quite a bit as demand changes.

I'm fortunate in that I can see mine as I have logged it as part of my solar panel monitoring system. It logs the voltage directly from the solar panel inverter (that needs to know it in order to sync the national grid for exporting electricity), so the graph only shows the voltage throughout the day when the panels are generating electricity. You can see my currently live voltage graph here ; http://www.pvoutput.org/intraday.jsp?id=3777&sid=2970


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Yeah I'd planned on taking readings through the day and then averaging them out, it's something I'm used to doing through work as it was necessary to check power frequently and make sure you had all 3 phases balanced and no earth loops anywhere that could go across phases as 415V would hurt from 125A supply, or most probably leave a pair of smoking boots a la Wile Coyote cartoons behind as your last earthly remains


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## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

Charliej said:


> Yeah I'd planned on taking readings through the day and then averaging them out, it's something I'm used to doing through work as it was necessary to check power frequently and make sure you had all 3 phases balanced and no earth loops anywhere that could go across phases as 415V would hurt from 125A supply, or most probably leave a pair of smoking boots a la Wile Coyote cartoons behind as your last earthly remains


Would be cool to see the smoking boots.


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Never seen Boots smokin', but I live in hope.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Burn him burn him


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

The Systemic Kid said:


> Never seen Boots smokin', but I live in hope.


I thought he gave the **** up ages ago or was he using the word in the American sense?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Charliej said:


> I thought he gave the **** up ages ago or was he using the word in the American sense?


What could Charlie mean ?


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Well are you the only one in your village?


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Mrboots2u said:


> What could Charlie mean ?


Take your pick

*informal*

1. a tiring or unwelcome task.

"it's too much of a ***** to drive all the way there and back again"

synonyms:	chore, slog, grind, drudgery, exertion, trouble, bother, pain, hardship, bore; More

2. a junior pupil at a public school who does minor chores for a senior pupil.

"a ***** at school who has suffered a well-earned beating"

*verb informal*

verb: *****; 3rd person present: ******; past tense: ********; past participle: ********; gerund or present participle: *********

work hard, especially at a tedious task.

"he didn't have to ***** away in a lab to get the right answer"

Think that covers it!


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> Burn him burn him


This is turning into a witch hunt.....literally!


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

1. When did this turn into the whicker man ?

2. Im too cool to burn , too cool for school , too sexy for my shirt.









3. I'm no ones ***, whatever definition you use- so Charlie your a big man, but your in bad shape , now behave yourself.

4. Bonus Points for anyone getting the film reference above .


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## drude (Apr 22, 2013)

I Get Carter it. What do I win?


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

drude said:


> I Get Carter it. What do I win?


I should have excluded you , as you seem to get everyfilm and music reference going .......

I will think of a suitable prize


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

Mrboots2u said:


> 1. When did this turn into the whicker man ?
> 
> 2. Im too cool to burn , too cool for school , too sexy for my shirt.
> 
> ...


I know - it's Whicker's Travels starring Edward Woodward and Britt Ekland. Did you know Kenney Everet, bless, described Edward Woodward's name sounding like an eructation in the bath?? No, thought not??


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Well take your pick Bootsy but I did attend a public school, this was not by choice the decision was made for me. I think maybe Patrick should have checked a slang dictionary as well as the definitions made no mention of the Northern meatball like delicacy this is also a shortened version of.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Your right it's the grinds that are static not the funnel so what the hell is it about Charlie's grinds (ooh er missus) that are immune to static? I think/guess it must be something to do with the burrs creating it. Surely if it was the electrickery from the wall socket wouldn't the whole machine suffer from it and when you went near it, it would cause a spark and you'd jump like a scalded cat? Besides when my extension was built a proper qualified kosher leccy did the work, it was earthed and given a certificate and everything. Hmm. perhaps I should try using it in another part of the house and see if the electric there is any better.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

The Systemic Kid said:


> I know - it's Whicker's Travels starring Edward Woodward and Britt Ekland. Did you know Kenney Everet, bless, described Edward Woodward's name sounding like an eructation in the bath?? No, thought not??


Was eructation a typo,







I checked out the meaning, which one was Kenny referring to?

Noun1.eructation - (of volcanos) pouring out fumes or lava (or a deposit so formed)

extravasation, eruption

volcano, vent - a fissure in the earth's crust (or in the surface of some other planet) through which molten lava and gases erupt

activeness, activity, action - the state of being active; "his sphere of activity"; "he is out of action"

2.eructation - a reflex that expels gas noisily from the stomach through the mouth

belch, burp, burping, belching

ejection, forcing out, expulsion, projection - the act of expelling or projecting or ejecting

inborn reflex, innate reflex, instinctive reflex, physiological reaction, reflex, reflex action, reflex response, unconditioned reflex - an automatic instinctive unlearned reaction to a stimulus


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Pompeyexile said:


> Your right it's the grinds that are static not the funnel so what the hell is it about Charlie's grinds (ooh er missus) that are immune to static? I think/guess it must be something to do with the burrs creating it. Surely if it was the electrickery from the wall socket wouldn't the whole machine suffer from it and when you went near it, it would cause a spark and you'd jump like a scalded cat? Besides when my extension was built a proper qualified kosher leccy did the work, it was earthed and given a certificate and everything. Hmm. perhaps I should try using it in another part of the house and see if the electric there is any better.


Maybe Charlie's just really grounded....either that or it's those copper trousers he likes to wear round the kitchen


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## drude (Apr 22, 2013)

Mrboots2u said:


> I should have excluded you , as you seem to get everyfilm and music reference going .......
> 
> I will think of a suitable prize


A video of you eating a piece of bread with butter?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

It's carb karma! Embrace the bread and the butter.....could be messy.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Just out of interest Charlie, with your grinds falling out of the chute at a speed akin to a bloated cow with dysentry evacuating it's bowels, are there any actually left in the chute at all? I.E. are you getting out exactly what you put in?

As well as my grinds clinging on to the funnell like a limpet on heat, i'm also having to wiggle a pastry brush inside the chute to get quite a bit out too.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

all the flat exit grinders retain coffee in the grind path, is the camera hood working? plus if there is any ground issue in the household supply the coffee will stick to the chute


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## Charliej (Feb 25, 2012)

Pompeyexile said:


> Just out of interest Charlie, with your grinds falling out of the chute at a speed akin to a bloated cow with dysentry evacuating it's bowels, are there any actually left in the chute at all? I.E. are you getting out exactly what you put in?
> 
> As well as my grinds clinging on to the funnell like a limpet on heat, i'm also having to wiggle a pastry brush inside the chute to get quite a bit out too.


 I don't single dose I load the "hopper" up with beans at the start of the day and top up as needed and when I get to the end of a lot of beans a short sharp smack on the hopper lid ejects any grounds from the throat and leaves it nice and clear, I try and manage the amount of beans so that the hopper is empty at the end of the day. I check and weigh a couple of doses through the day to make sure they are reasonably consistent and then I just grind, tamp and lock place a cup on the scales and tare them then put the cup and scales under the spouts and pull the shot keeping an eye on the weight of output and the built in shot timer.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

A few years ago I had a small extension added to the kitchen and a new electricity box was added with new wiring to the kitchen and I'm sure it was earthed or grounded properly. Having said that I don't know where to look to see if or where it would be grounded.

Yes the camera hood you gave me with the grinder works a treat thanks Dave but unlike Charlie I don't tend to fill it up but maybe I should put more beans in.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Finished my 1kg of Rave Fudge so thought I'd run some Grindz through my grinder before I start on my Suarez. Now I know there are no oils in Grindz as there are in coffee beans but not a gram stuck to the funnel it obviously came through the burrs without a bit of static.

I then ran some Suarez through and sure enough more static than a charged up Frankenstein's monster.

Just out of interest I also noticed upon opening the Suarez the beans were moist or should I say had droplets of moisture on them. Is that normal? They were roasted on 20th January have I left it too long to use them? Thought I should use up the Fudge first as it was open.


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## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

I don't know anything about those beans Pompy - but if they are a dark roast then a certain amount of shine is to be expected. Your not mistaking shine (oil) for moisture by chance?..... if they have moisture I would be a little concerned. How were they stored?


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

They are stored in the black bag with one way valve they came in and that was sealed before I cut it open. Looking at them now as I type They do seem now to be more moist so I guess it's just oils. I don't think the picture really shows it. Maybe because my Fudge was dry I was just surprised to see a glistening bean.

View attachment 5774


View attachment 5775


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## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

They look fine to me. The important thing is how do they taste to you?


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Now there's the 64 million dollar question Daren. After 250g of Rave signature and 1kg of Rave Fudge I'm beginning to think I haven't the taste buds for straight espresso as all I ever get is bitter or sour and no caramel, or chocolate or citrus and I've weighed in weighed out, timed the extraction, tamped lighter, tamped harder and adjusted and re-adjusted the grinder. Of course the new beans Columbian Suarez from Rave which are I guess a darker bean will be totally different and all the adjustments made again to try and reach something that won't have me screwing my face up like a baby with wind.

I'm not despondent though because practice does make perfect and if I just make lattes out of the results and then it seems to taste OK.

I think when my birthday comes around I'm going to ask for a Brista training session.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Personally I'd try different beans for straight espresso , I don't like sig or fudge as shots on their own ...

fudge especially , it used to say on the rave site " don't got there as neat espresso only "

i think they are both tons better as milk based blends, and for me this is where they shine.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

Well let's hope I have better luck with the Columbian Suarez.....Onwards and upwards!


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

So reading through this and other threads do I understand this is the full list of solutions?:

- Mess about with the flap / design

- Clean the inside of the funnel with wax/polish (or whatever you think might work)

- Alter the beans

- Lightly dampen the beans

- Try a household power supply with better earthing!?

Is there anything else?


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## CamV6 (Feb 7, 2012)

And stand on one leg wearing a rubber shoe


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

CamV6 said:


> And stand on one leg wearing a rubber shoe


Tried that. Left and right. Didn't work... ;-)

It seems to be OK sometimes, and not others...

What about this for the inside of the 'funnel'?: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/6783133/


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

jonc said:


> Tried that. Left and right. Didn't work... ;-)
> 
> It seems to be OK sometimes, and not others...
> 
> What about this for the inside of the 'funnel'?: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/6783133/


Possibly worth trying, but reduced friction will not necessarily reduce static.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

I think if you could decrease friction the grinds would carry themselves into the portafilter without the static pinning them (but I may be wrong!)


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## bieniek (Dec 7, 2014)

Gnntlemen, hope you get the whole picture here.

My rr55 was perfectly functional, with just 5600 shots ground when my silly brain insisted on replacing burrs, and do a detailing connected with paint polishing...

And so I stripped the machine, washed all of the parts apart from engine on the longest, most aggressive program I found available in my dishwasher, which took like 20 days to finish...

...when removing the funnel, noticed there was a little metal flap there... oh well so I washed that too

And then...putting it back together...oh ****... grounds all over the place. Majestic failure. Im no engineer but hey this grinder aint exactly no space shuttle right?

So I have the flap, that tiny bit of rough-cut metal. I tried to bend it to a millions of different shapes[it actually came out similar to origami], without too much luck, the grounds would still be sticking to the funnel like the said you-know-what to a blanket. I tried to file the rough edges out - wasted effort

And then Ive found this:

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-doserless-static-problems-t23013.html

And so I've blocked the chute for few seconds, re installed the little flap with just a small gap - like max 4mm.

Needless to say before I did that Ive used all the coffee I had at home.

BUT... Its working now. The HB thread makes a decent job explaining why, funny this little flap makes the magix happen.

Me is happy camper again, well almost since the burrs Ive got from Espresso underground are just plain b____cks...

  

Sure yours clean?http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/bieniekoriginal/media/DSCN1827_zpsba38470e.jpg.html


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## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

Will be interesting to hear if the static is back with the Suarez. I'd never experienced real static before with the Pharos' until I opened a bag of those.


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## glevum (Apr 4, 2013)

I think monsooned malabar is worse for static. Always need a couple of drips of water when single dosing


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## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

Funny you should say that! Exactly what I moved onto after the Suarez and although it's slightly better it's still very staticky!


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## Eyedee (Sep 13, 2010)

Rob666 said:


> Funny you should say that! Exactly what I moved onto after the Suarez and although it's slightly better it's still very staticky!


As a regular MM user I found the Suarez way too overpowering on the caramel flavour. Personal taste I guess.

Ian


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## 7493 (May 29, 2014)

We like them both but agree that the Suarez is more caramel.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Today was a good day, the grinder God smiled down on me and blessed my RR55OD.

After much frustrations and false starts over the last 8 months, everything seems to have suddenly fell into place this weekend with wonderful rivers of coffee cascading down the funnel for 2 days in succession. Previously I've had it work for a few seconds, so a single shot works then a double shot sticks, or work for one shot but then not for the next. I've even had it working for a day (2 or 3 shots) but then cleaning out the chute cause the flap to move and back to square one. I think one of the issues is that I made my flap out of a Pepsi can and the metal is too springy and because of the curvature profile it tends to want to spring into one of two positions, neither of which produce static free grinds. I think I probably need to use a brass tag like pompyexile which I assume will have a more static position if you'll pardon the pun.

Anyway, in an attempt to help "set" the flap position in future I used some Fimo clay to try and take a mould of the flaps distance from the funnel wall. The clay requires baking in the oven to harden it but either something is up with our oven or I got something wrong because 30mins later instead of a hard green tool I had a black charcoal bricket and very smokey kitchen!

Fortunately it does seem to have harden OK and still seems work though so hopefully I will be able to reset the flap position when I get brass flap made or if the current one moves out of alignment.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Here is a video of my static free grinder and the little tool I made to set the flap to the perfect position.

I guess this finally lays to rest the rumour that it's just the Chrome bodied versions of the RR55OD that have static issues!


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## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

Incredible difference Marcus! Looks like it was useless before...


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I wouldn't say it was unusable, as I was actually using it, but certainly a bit of a faff and certainly not on demand as it was supposed to be. It was actually more akin to using a doser model with all the thwacking involved.

It is pretty amazing though that angle of the flap can such make a massive difference! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.

Does anyone else have an RR55OD that suffers from static? If so it would be interesting to see if my little tool worked for your grinder as well, I would assume it would but would be interesting to know for certain.


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## Mrboots2u (May 10, 2013)

Good work Marcus!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Thank MrBoots, I'm really chuffed with it now. Brings a smile to my face every time I use it.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I think I discovered why my Fimo flap setting tool overcooked. The instructions say 230F but the oven is in Centigrade , so 230C is actually 446F !


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## Daren (Jan 16, 2012)

marcuswar said:


> I think I discovered why my Fimo flap setting tool overcooked. The instructions say 230F but the oven is in Centigrade , so 230C is actually 446F !


D'oh! I assume the misses does the cooking in your house


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hey, its not my fault... it doesn't say anywhere on the cooker that its Centigrade. I blame the Americans, fancy using Fahrenheit


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## rmcgandara (Feb 12, 2013)

marcuswar said:


> I wouldn't say it was unusable, as I was actually using it, but certainly a bit of a faff and certainly not on demand as it was supposed to be. It was actually more akin to using a doser model with all the thwacking involved.
> 
> It is pretty amazing though that angle of the flap can such make a massive difference! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
> 
> Does anyone else have an RR55OD that suffers from static? If so it would be interesting to see if my little tool worked for your grinder as well, I would assume it would but would be interesting to know for certain.


yes my RR55OD developed some static after I got the brush stuck in the burrs when cleaning. I guess I damaged the flap. I need to probably make a new one. So I could potentially benefit from your invention.

R


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi rmcgandara,

Is your flap the original one (plastic ?) or is one you made yourself ?

pm me your postal address and I'll cut out a new flap for you and pop it in the post with the "magic bricket" for you to try.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

marcuswar said:


> Hi rmcgandara,
> 
> Is your flap the original one (plastic ?) or is one you made yourself ?
> 
> pm me your postal address and I'll cut out a new flap for you and pop it in the post with the "magic bricket" for you to try.


can you send me one as well?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Sure can Dave, but only if I can put "by royal appointment to CoffeeChap" on my signature









I actually only have the burnt bricket at the moment, so I'll try have to make another one or two out of Fimo and try not to burn them this time.

pm me your address.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

thankyou and permission granted.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

No worries, give me a few days to get things sorted and then I'll post it out to you.

No promises but hopefully it will work for you and we can finally have a solution to this static issue. It would be interesting to know if it works on all grinders or if each grinder requires a different setting and I imagine it could possibly be affected by the speed of the burrs or rather the speed of the coffee expulsion.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

No worries, give me a few days to get things sorted and then I'll post it out to you.

No promises but hopefully it will work for you and we can finally have a solution to this static issue. It would be interesting to know if it works on all grinders or if each grinder requires a different setting and I imagine it could possibly be affected by the speed of the burrs or rather the speed of the coffee expulsion.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Hey,

I am also suffering with the same static issue so would massively appreciate any solution, and more than happy to try any magic tool (burned or otherwise) if it helps!

Currently I am using a very large spoon to partly cover the chute, and then tapping the metal funnel a few times causes all the coffee to drop. Not ideal really!

Is anyone else having a retention issue? I think I am getting between 2-3g, just wondering whether it is related to the static issue causing a blockage.



marcuswar said:


> No worries, give me a few days to get things sorted and then I'll post it out to you.
> 
> No promises but hopefully it will work for you and we can finally have a solution to this static issue. It would be interesting to know if it works on all grinders or if each grinder requires a different setting and I imagine it could possibly be affected by the speed of the burrs or rather the speed of the coffee expulsion.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi badger28,

Since your covering the exit with a spoon do I take it that you don't have a metal flap at all ? If not then first thing to do is make a flap from a beer can or coke can. These are really easy to work with as you can cut them with normal scissors. Scrub the flap with a wire wool or a pan scourer to remove any printing and any plastic coating. Position the flap over the exit hole and the lift the flap until there is about a 4mmm gap at the bottom, and see how it works. All my little tool does is allow you to set the gap easier, you could use anything that's about 4mm thick. It the flap is to far away (more than 4mm) then you get static like my first video, if it's too close (less than 4mm) then it impedes the exit and the grinds back up and either clog the exit completely or gives clumps.

If coffeechap can confirm the tool works for him then I will look into a way of producing them small quantities to help others, but at the moment it remains to be seen if it even works for others. Keep an eye on this thread and cross your fingers, and if it works your first on the list Badger.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Badger,

Regarding the retention, best advice is get a collapsible rubber camera lens hood like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-3-Stage-Rubber-Lens-Hood-for-Nikon-Canon-Pentax-OM/250599940143?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D5e2ade9d1b604fecbf947ffb0b6fb517%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D110559630863&rt=nc










Get the lid off an instant coffee tin and put it on the camera hood and give it a whack. I use the lid of a tin of Nescafe Azera like this ;










The air pressure forces all the retained coffee grinds out of the grinding chamber. I recon I get about a 1-1.5grams of coffee out of the chute when I thwack it.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Thanks for the link and advice Marcus.

I may well have a lens hood actually, so just the lid to procure.

I also need to get a drinks can out of the recycling. Or maybe pop next door and rescue a tin of cider from the neighbours recycling. I shall experiment and get back to you all!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

No worries Badger, if your don't have a coffee lid to hand you can just put your palm over the lens hood and thwack it, it just seems to work better with the lid. Probably just down to a better air seal.

rmcgandara hasn't pm'd me with a postal address so I guess he doesn't want to try the "magic bricket", so if you want to pm your address I'll send one to you to try instead and include a homemade flap if you want.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

You are a lovely man! PM on it's way.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

You're too kind Badger, I've been on the receiving end of many a forum members generosity so its nice to be able to give something back









I've received your pm and I'll get it sent out in the next day or so. I hope it proves to be as successful for you as it did for me.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Badger, CoffeeChap I've just been to the post office and sent you both a little tool each. I made two new ones in a slightly different set so I hope they work for you.

These new ones have a stick so you can see better what you are doing. Here a picture of how they should be used. You can adjust the angle you hold the stick to slightly adjust the flap angle.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Received this morning (thanks again) but not used it as of yet due to a bit of a heavy night yesterday. I will have a play over the forthcoming week. If this solves the static problem I will be more than happy!!

Thanks!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

You're more than welcome Badger, finger crossed it helps. You may have to tinker a little bit but it should get you in the ballpark. If nothing else take heart from my before and after videos, the static issue CAN definitely be overcome


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

How did you get on with it Badger?

Mine is still performing static free thanks to the flap being set just right.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Hit and miss thus far! I am finding that the flap has it's own memory and so decides to sit in a particular position sometimes. When it works it is amazing, I reckon it only works perfectly on about 20% of occasions. When it doesn't work there is a lot of retention as all the grinds seem to get backed up into the throat, which then means I have to completely move the flap to purge it with a bent tea spoon!

So this weekend I plan to make a new flap (as this one is work out from me trying to manipulate it). I also plan on having a look to see if I can attach a flap to the stick you provided. I reckon I could then hold it in place but easily move it when I need to sort out the retention.

I also find that I get about 2g worth of retention out by loosening the grind (from 37 to about 55 on the dial) and then turning it on for a few seconds. It just flies out! So must get lodged somewhere but opening it up a bit frees the already ground beans. Bit odd!!

The experiment will continue...


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi Badger,

Sorry it's not helped you in the same way it helped me. If it works some of the time then you must be pretty close to the perfect spot so I guess it's just a case of tweaking it. If the grinds are backing up then the flap is too close and needs to be moved away slightly, if the grinds come out but stick to the funnel then it's too far away and need to be moved closer. I know what you mean about the metal flaps ability to spring into a desired position. I think it's probably down to slight curvature of the funnel and maybe the aluminium of the flap, possible brass would be better material. I've managed to negate the "spring" in mine by making an "outward" crease on the righthand side to absorb the distortion on the curvature. If you look at the flap I sent you, you should see what I mean.

Do you have a collapsible camera hood on your grinder? If you are then giving it a couple of good thwack should provide enough puff to clear the grinds without having to resort to taking the flap off. After I thwack mine after grinding I get about 1g out it.

I wonder if the retention you see by making the grind coarser is down to the retention mentioned in this post ; http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/modifications-to-reduce-coffee-retention-in-grind-chamber-t12644.html

Don't give up badger, keep trying and you'll get there in the end.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

The home barista link is interesting. I would have to dismantle it a little bit to confirm but I think that may well be what is happening, hence why changing the grind causes it all to drop down.

Over the weekend I got closer to perfect, about 50 / 50. Which is a lot better than before.

I shall continue playing with it. Other than the static and retention I am really pleased with the grinder and happy to keep trying / working out different mods.

It might have to take a back seat for a little while though as my raspberry pi 2 has arrived...


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Lol.. We had a box full of Raspberry Pi delivered to work the other week. I think everyone in the building must have ordered one !


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

badger28 said:


> Other than the static and retention I am really pleased with the grinder and happy to keep trying / working out different mods


Well the static issue is definitely solvable, I have video evidence of that









As for the retention , I don't find it a big issue as that plug of coffee around the top burr seems to build up on the initial couple of grinds after cleaning and then it's pretty much solid and fixed (unless you make a big change in grind setting?) . From then on the grind output seems pretty consistent. I'd say that in general day to day to use mine seems to retain about 1g of coffee after grinding but that can easily be puffed out by slamming down on the camera lens hood hopper.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Dear all,

I just got a RR45 from Dylan, and as my first grinder with doser I must say I am freaking out with the static!! The burrs are new, so probably this does not help. Dylan installed a metal flap (see picture), but it's not helping so far.

Any advice/improvement on the flap approach to reduce my static problem?

Thanks!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

The flap in that image is way too far away from the exit hole. In my experience the exact distance is critical and needs to be much closer. Probably in the order or 2-3mm gap at the bottom of the flap.

As far as I'm aware the flap was only fitted on the DOSERLESS models. The DOSER model as a sort of rubber drum built into the doser lid that fits in front of the exit hole. I would guess you need to remove that flap that Dylan put and see how it behaves then.

Are you trying to single dose ? i.e. are you trying to grind just enough for one cup of coffee at a time?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Yes, I am single dosing at the moment


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

The flap in this pic was installed to stop grinds making their way out of the doser exit chute as the metal cover that sits between the veins was removed to reduce retention. I could not achieve any kind of distance with the flap that would reduce static without backing up the grinds in the exit chute of the burrs. The lens hood mod provides a puff of air, but not enough to clear really backed up grinds. The flap is only attached to one screw to allow access to the exit chute with a brush.

The rubber drum, which contained a switch was removed with the mech that stops the grinder working without doser, so he wont see that. I can't remember for the life of me if I left in the plastic tongue that drops down from the lid.

The static without that flap causes grinds to stick to every wall of the doser, it needs a lot of thwacks to get them out.

Fede - Have you tried the water droplet technique?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

The droplet technique really makes a difference, but I feel jealous when I watch these static-free videos so I wanted to find out whether or not I can achieve something similar in my doser following their approach.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

fede_luppi said:


> The droplet technique really makes a difference, but I feel jealous when I watch these static-free videos so I wanted to find out whether or not I can achieve something similar in my doser following their approach.


Good, I know what you mean, and the static free, fluffy grinds of the RR55 are indeed a thing of envy. Hopefully the same thing is achievable on the RR45 doser so good luck!

You should know as it gets mentioned with regards to rr45 retention, that the exit path of the grinds from the burrs usually has a couple of annoying lips that increase retention, but these have been filed away so the exit path is clear.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Good to know, thanks!


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Marcus, any recommendation/suggestion after Dylan's comments?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Draw hope from my before and after videos further back in the thread. Static free grinds are definitely achievable.

Move the flap closer. If it starts to block up then move it wider by a fraction (like .5mm). On my RR55 the difference between grinds backing up , static free grinds and getting static is probably only about 1 or 2mm in total.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Would you hence suggest to remove the screw and attach the flap with tape instead to the desired position?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I happen to have a "spare" RR55 (not45) grinder in storage. I believe that has the same doser as yours (certainly looks the same) so I'll try and find some time to experiment with it to see if I can get it to grind static free into the doser using a flap like Dylan (rather than the microswitch drum)

If I can get a working flap fabricated I'll send it to you in the post for you to try.

I'm guessing the flap angle is pretty much determined by the speed of the grinds exiting the burr chamber so the angle may have to be different for different burrs (RR45 vs RR55) and motor speeds?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

That would be amazing!







Such a nice man!

Thanks Marcus


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

fede_luppi said:


> Would you hence suggest to remove the screw and attach the flap with tape instead to the desired position?


I think you need to use screws as I wouldn't think tape wouldn't hold it secure enough.

I'm, not sure what Dylans flap is made off (it almost looks like torn paper in the picture) so I'm not sure how flexible it is. You need to crease it and then adjust the crease angle. I used some metal cut from a beer can to make mine but it does take a lot of fiddling because the aluminium is so springy. Ideally I would think a small sheet of brass or copper would work best.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

fede_luppi said:


> That would be amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your welcome... after spending a year with a barely usable RR55OD because of static I feel your pain.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Tin can, all our beer was in bottles ^_^


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## Lefteye (Dec 30, 2014)

Could you use a Teflon spray on the funnel or does this taint it or not stop the static??


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Dylan said:


> Tin can, all our beer was in bottles ^_^


Considering I'm almost tea total (err.. coffee total) we always seem to end up with absolutely loads of alcohol after Christmas. My flap came from a can strongbow which I emptied down the sink in order use the can..


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Lefteye said:


> Could you use a Teflon spray on the funnel or does this taint it or not stop the static??


Unfortunately it doesn't work.. been there, tried it


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## Lefteye (Dec 30, 2014)

Thought the idea was too simple to work.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Well sometimes the simplest ideas ARE the best.... just not in this case









Actually to be fair, the solution IS simple... you just need to get the angle of that flap just right.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

marcuswar said:


> Considering I'm almost tea total (err.. coffee total) we always seem to end up with absolutely loads of alcohol after Christmas. My flap came from a can strongbow which I emptied down the sink in order use the can..


I can vouch for that, you sent me a small square of the same can. Quality strong bow!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

LoL.. in my younger days I was a cider drinker but never out of a can!


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## jeebsy (May 5, 2013)

marcuswar said:


> LoL.. in my younger days I was a cider drinker but never out of a can!


A 3 litre bottle of White Lightening or Frosty Jacks was more my style back in the day


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Good lord chaps, if you're going to drink cider, at least make it a nice one! Minimum entry level being Aspall. Strongbow is supposed to go down the sink. It'll probably unblock it for you!


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Hi Marcus,

Have you had any chance to investigate this paranormal activity?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi fede_luppi,

Apologies, I've not forgotten about you but this weekend was a bit hectic as I'm still nursing a convalescing wife and was also "volunteered" to do some DIY jobs (hanging doors) for my sister. I'll endeavour to at least get an initial test done sometime this week.

Feel free to "chase me" if I've not posted something by the end of the week.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

I appreciate you have my prayers in mind. Take your time! Thanks


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

OK fede_luppi , I had some time this weekend to have a quick play around with my RR55 grinder;

Here is a video of the grinder grinding with the lid off. I didn't notice too much static but there again the grind is quite coarse. Is this similar to what I get ? I'm guessing not.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Can a similar method be applied to the RR45? Though the only drawback I can see is you can't pull the grinds out that stay behind the flap?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi Rhys, this is how this all started, with the R45, its just that I happed to have a RR55 readily to hand. The RR55 and RR45 are very similar (identical?) so it should work the same. The flap was just cut from a drinks tin, screwed into place and then bent outwards by pulling it outwards from the bottom and getting my finger behind and creasing the shape. I also had to mark the edge of the doser "window" and fold the flap up to allow the window wiper wire to pass unimpeded.

Regarding the grinds behind the flap, a whack on a rubber lens hood used as a mini hopper will give a puff of air through the grind path to clear it.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Rhys - I recently saw a photo of someones solution which involved knitting together a few paper clips and having them dangle over the exit chute, this would work in a similar way to the Mazzer anti-static screen/grid. It would also allow you access to the chute for cleaning.

In my short time with an RR45 I noticed that the puff of air from the lens hood was much less effective than it is on the Mazzer SJ, I tried the flap method but was not happy with the retention it caused which I could not remove easily, I ended up putting a flap over it only attached to one screw so it could be 'hinged' out of the way. Saying that I never managed to find the 'sweet spot' between backing up the grinder and static, so if you manage this you may find the solution adequate.

One other thing is that the exit chute on the RR45 commonly has a lip where the metal from the hopper meets the exit chute, this causes a lot of retention, on the one I restored I filed away this lip to create a clearer path.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Dylan said:


> One other thing is that the exit chute on the RR45 commonly has a lip where the metal from the hopper meets the exit chute, this causes a lot of retention, on the one I restored I filed away this lip to create a clearer path.


I was going to mention that, though I didn't know if the RR55 had it as well.

One thing I've noticed is the grounds bounce off the cut-off switch so a flap thing might help there as well.










I don't know if this is the same for the RR55?


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

I think that whilst some of the grinds do hit the flap, most of the ones stuck to the chute with static would have made their way straight there I think. I imagine this also creates distribution problems as I doubt the static affects all the particles of various sizes and shapes the same.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Hi Marcus,

Your video with the flap looks like an upgrade to me. I think I will give it a go on the weekend, despite Dylan's attempt with the same grinder wasn't fruitful. How is retention in yours with the flap? I cannot notice in the video whether the grinds are static-free or just directed to the carrusel but still electrically charged. In the second case, it would work, but I assume a lot of grinds would stay behind the flap?

Regarding the before video, indeed static is worst on mine. In my case, the grinds stick on the wall of the doser, on the right side.

As Dylan said, the puff is usually not enough so I end up using the brush in the exit chute to clear it and get about 1gr extra. Haven't had the chance to try the experiment with the paper clips though, but it is not clear to me I can attach the clips on the doser as in the example (http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?14475-RR55-OD-grinding-no-static-and-nice-fluffy-grinds/page17&highlight=tamper). I will buy some clips and try.

Cheers


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

My experience with the RR55OD is that the static is an issue if you allow the grinds to spread out and disperse, if you keep them together in stream and divert them downward then there is no static issue. It may be to do with the speed that the particles are moving through the air?

My main grinder is the RR55OD so I can't say what the retention is like on the RR55 but on the OD it's not a problem for me as a puff of air seems to clears out any that remains (~1g-1.5g).

The RR55 and RR45 seem to me to be the same grinder, they certainly seem to share many of the same parts and the spec of the motor seems the same. Maybe the burrs are different?

I see what Dylan means about the step on the exit chute! It certainly isn't like that on the RR55OD , it almost looks like they messed up their original designs and put the hole in the wall of the doser at the wrong height to me !


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Any advice in regards of the flap angle or distance from the exit?

Thanks, you are becoming an excellent static researcher!


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

marcuswar said:


> I see what Dylan means about the step on the exit chute! It certainly isn't like that on the RR55OD , it almost looks like they messed up their original designs and put the hole in the wall of the doser at the wrong height to me !


Looks like it. I think when I've got a bit of time spare I'll remove my doser and file it down a bit. Will probably try the flap thingy as well. What's best to make it out of? Drinks can? Will an ally one be better than steel?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

fede_luppi said:


> Any advice in regards of the flap angle or distance from the exit?
> 
> Thanks, you are becoming an excellent static researcher!


For my RR44OD the magic distance seems to be around a 4mm gap. Too much static move it closer, too much backpressure open it up a bit.

The distance may be different dependant on the burrs as my feeling is it's all to do with the speed of the grinds exiting the chute.

On the RR55 I just cut the a strip of tin wide enough to reach across from doser fixing screw to screw. Once fitted the curvature of the doser pretty much sealed the exit chute so I then had to crease and deform the tin just enough to open it up.

I would think it should be possible to make the flap such that it hooks onto the screws rather has screw holes meaning it should be possible easily remove the flap for cleaning if required.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Rhys said:


> Looks like it. I think when I've got a bit of time spare I'll remove my doser and file it down a bit. Will probably try the flap thingy as well. What's best to make it out of? Drinks can? Will an ally one be better than steel?


No idea what's "the best" but I just cut up a tin of beer (so assume it was Ali rather than steel). The beer tin is easy to cut with scissor's and I doubt the material really matters as my feeling is that its the deflection that matters not any "grounding" or electrical connectivity.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

So today I made my first try.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8Mq13O2HCY&spfreload=10

As you can see on the video, the grinds are still electrically charged flying and sticking on the doser wall, but at least now mostly all of it is directed into the carrusel chamber. Any clue on why my flap is not stoping static as in yours?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Well it looks like you are progressing in the right direction at least









Looking at your video it looks like you cut two vertical slits in the metal to form the flap? I would advise against doing this and just shaping the metal to form the gap i.e. don't have open sides to the flap where the grids can escape. In my experience if you get any static then you need to move the flap fractionally closer. Give it a push with your finger and try again.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Also the grinds that do stick to the doser wall shouldn't be a big issue should they ? The sweeper should wipe them off when the doser handle is pulled a few times or does the RR45 not have that feature ?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

The sweeper is only useful when you have the doser fully loaded, as there is a gap between the sweeper and the wall. Actually I have removed the sweeper because it was bending the flap (because the flap stands out)


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

I will try without cutting the flap over the edge of the window later and post the result


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

fede_luppi said:


> The sweeper is only useful when you have the doser fully loaded, as there is a gap between the sweeper and the wall. Actually I have removed the sweeper because it was bending the flap (because the flap stands out)


I found the sweeper on my to be effective without the doser being full. The sweeper wire is sprung to keep it tight against the doser wall (see my video earlier). Regarding the issue with it fouling the flap. If you look at my earlier video you'll notice that I've made sure the flap height (I actually just bent the tin up at that point to form a seam) finishes exactly at the point the window starts so the sweeper wire doesn't foul it and also the vertical bar of the sweeper mechanism passes over the flap as it stands off the wall by a few millimetres. Having it brush and deform the flap slightly as it passes may even help knock off any grinds stuck behind it? This is also another reason for not cutting the slits to form the flap and just shaping it so the sides gently slope up to form the sides of the flap.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

New attempt. No cuts. Bar of the weeper attached again. Static and grinds behind the flap still there.

So now, should I just play with the curvature of the flap or what else can I try?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

New video:


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

That gap is way too big ! You need to squash it down MUCH flatter than that. you are looking to get a maximum of 3-4mm between the wall of the doser and the flap, its should be almost just straight across i.e. just the distance of the curvature of the doser wall making the gap.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Ok. I thought on your RR55 you were not too careful in regards of the distance between the flap and the wall (only on your RR44OD), but rather just roughly creasing the tin to open it up. Doesn't look easy to stabilise the flat at a desired distance though! It's quite unmanageable.

PD: it's not a beer tin, I am not drinking during office hours.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

a few observations, the thwacker is designed for exactly that, thwacking! being gentle means it is not doing what it is supposed to do, use wit some vigour, so allowing the handle to snap back under spring pressure will knock the grinds down to the base a lot easier. Your grinder is a rr45 it is not an OD version as it has a doser. get the flap a little flatter and you should be good to go.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Yes I didn't mess around too much on the RR55 *BUT* I wasn't seeing much static to begin with, partly because the grind was set very coarse and possibly because they where some very old stale beans I was using. On my RR55OD it took me *hours *of messing around to get the magic distance. As you say with the aluminium tin can is difficult to get a stable position as it has too much springiness. By creasing it in different places you can get it to hold shape but it IS difficult to tweak. Ideally I suspect a think sheet of copper would be better.



> PD: it's not a beer tin, I am not drinking during office hours.


No... just "playing" around with coffee grinders


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> No... just "playing" around with coffee grinders


I am scientist, and this is just for science's sake


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

> I am scientist...


In which case, stop posting on the forum and just get this static problem solved properly


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> In which case, stop posting on the forum and just get this static problem solved properly


I would love to get a grant to sort this out. Would probably deserve my payslip more than now!


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

coffeechap said:


> a few observations, the thwacker is designed for exactly that, thwacking! being gentle means it is not doing what it is supposed to do, use wit some vigour


Yeah, I wasn't in the mood for such a bang this morning...


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

There you go! I am not sure whether or not I have grinds behind the flap because these are stale beans just for playing and I haven't weighted input and output. Definitively much better.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

fede_luppi said:


> There you go! I am not sure whether or not I have grinds behind the flap because these are stale beans just for playing and I haven't weighted input and output. Definitively much better.


Great stuff, it does look like there are ground staying behind the flap, but you could always purge those. Depends if you find a bit of waste or a lot of static more of an issue


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Well done fedi_luppi, that looks much better. Looks slightly clumpy so I suspect you could tweak the flap just slightly further away to get more of a stream of coffee butI'm not sure it's worth messing and potentially making it worse rather than better.

A puff of air via the lens hopper mod so clear any retained grinds (or at least the majority of it).

Did you file down the lip of the doser/exit chute ?


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> Did you file down the lip of the doser/exit chute ?


I did that before i sent it to him


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks Dylan, I do remember you mentioning that now...Doh!


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Dylan said:


> I did that before i sent it to him


Yep, not a problem in mine, Dylan made a great job


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

I am still curious about the paper clips mod. I will try when I get a few soon, just out of curiosity. If any of you take the initiative first, please let me know what you find out


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Anyone have a link to a page that describes the paperclip mod ?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> Anyone have a link to a page that describes the paperclip mod ?


It's just a picture, but looks rather simple (http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/static-electricity-and-manual-all-metal-grinders-t32523.html)


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

edit: nevermind, I couldn't find it but looks like fede remembered


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks fede & Dylan, that look simple enough, I'll give it a go tonight!

If it works I would prefer that to a flap as there would appear to be nothing to go "out of alignment" and also you can see if there is any coffee stuck in the chute. I guess it works in a similar way to the flap in that it creates a drag on the flow of grinds?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> Thanks fede & Dylan, that look simple enough, I'll give it a go tonight!
> 
> If it works I would prefer that to a flap as there would appear to be nothing to go "out of alignment" and also you can see if there is any coffee stuck in the chute. I guess it works in a similar way to the flap in that it creates a drag on the flow of grinds?


I think it reproduces the same working principle as the Mazzer anti static screen AFAIK


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> Thanks fede & Dylan, that look simple enough, I'll give it a go tonight!
> 
> If it works I would prefer that to a flap as there would appear to be nothing to go "out of alignment" and also you can see if there is any coffee stuck in the chute. I guess it works in a similar way to the flap in that it creates a drag on the flow of grinds?


That would be my guess.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

A quick and dirty test of using paperclips to make an antistatic curtain... looks like it may be worth investigating further. Certainly shows how much coffee is retained in the chute!


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

I like that, how did you fix the paperlips to the hopper and does the lid fit back on?


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Hmmm, interesting.

Be interesting to see how the RR45's respond to it, as they seem to suffer even worse static issues.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

As I said it's "Quick & Dirty"...

the paper clips are simply hung from a unbent paperclip that has been bent into a hook/hanger arrangement and is hanging over the edge of the doser. I had to loosen the doser screws to allow it to be hooked over and tightened the screws back up.

the lid does sort of fit back on but not fully as the paperclip keeps it a millimetre higher. If this was the final design then I'd just use a file to create a couple of notches in the lip of the doser so the paperclip hooks below the lip surface.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Dylan said:


> Hmmm, interesting.
> 
> Be interesting to see how the RR45's respond to it, as they seem to suffer even worse static issues.


It'll be interesting to try it on my RR55OD as that really did suffer from static before I got the flap just right.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> It'll be interesting to try it on my RR55OD as that really did suffer from static before I got the flap juts right.


Indeed, is the one on the video a 55 doser?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Yes the video in post #205 is my "spare" RR55 i.e. doser version. My main grinder is an RR55OD which is the on demand version (i.e. the one shown in the videos in post #106)


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

i think the funniest thing is the woman in background saying "apparently you are very clever, you have made your own chain out of paperclips" what groundbreaking anti static solution did she come up with today?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

It is interesting indeed, static eliminated!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

fede_luppi said:


> It is interesting indeed, static eliminated!


Do you mean to say you have tried it on yours, or do you just mean in reference to the vid?



> i think the funniest thing is the woman in background saying "apparently you are very clever, you have made your own chain out of paperclips" what groundbreaking anti static solution did she come up with today?


I couldn't work out what was being said, so thanks for the captions







... must be a hard life for marc, genius inventions shot down at every turn ^_^


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

coffeechap said:


> i think the funniest thing is the woman in background saying "apparently you are very clever, you have made your own chain out of paperclips" what groundbreaking anti static solution did she come up with today?


Lol... I have the sound muted on my laptop so I didn't even realise that had been recorded!

"She" is my wife, and is actually commenting on what my eldest son had just told her after he had seen what I was doing a few minutes earlier.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

marcuswar said:


> "She" is my wife


oops no offence meant


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

No offense taken









Sorry if I implied I had, I certainly didn't mean to!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

...I'm also entirely bemused as to why a 26year old would think that his father is very clever for being able to make a chain out of paperclips?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

Dylan said:


> Do you mean to say you have tried it on yours, or do you just mean in reference to the vid?


I meant in reference to the vid. Even though is the cheapest thing in the world I don't have paper clips at home and I haven't managed to buy some (just lazy). I will give it a go myself and if finally solve my static problem I may go doserless.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

This seems to be a good combination of metal to reduce static but also not block the chute too much so as to cause retention. I shall be trying this on Monday evening (need a day at work to 'liberate' some paperclips...)


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2015)

www? Mine is still performing static free thanks to the flap being set just right.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

badger28 said:


> This seems to be a good combination of metal to reduce static but also not block the chute too much so as to cause retention. I shall be trying this on Monday evening (need a day at work to 'liberate' some paperclips...)


Have you got it sorted yet badger or are you still struggling with static?


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

ecommercewp said:


> www? Mine is still performing static free thanks to the flap being set just right.


I managed to eliminate static with the flap in mine, but a lot of grinds were blocked behind the flap, which is not ideal for single-dosing because I cannot access the window of the doser to brush the remaining grinds. The paper clips may be the final solution, however I tried the other day but I couldn't manage to reduce static. One possible reason is that the paper clips I used had a plastic cover and I was on a rush. I'll try again when I get the time


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Can you not get the retained grinds out by blowing them out by whacking a lens hood in the throat? If you're single dosing then you can do this while pulsing the grinder which I would have thought would get most of it out ? I tend to keep beans in the throat , plus a tamper for weight so can't pulse the grinder but a few whacks on the lens hood certainly gets another gram or so out so it definitely clears some of it.

I don't think the plastic will make much difference (I could be wrong though), my feeling is that it's down to the "resistance" it applies to the grinds shooting out of the exit hole. Slow down the grinds and they stay together and form a coherent stream rather than all flying around individually and sticking to stuff.

I haven't had a chance to try the paperclip screen on my RR55OD yet, the only real advantage for me would be the ability to see how much coffee was stuck in the exit hole, which may not be an advantage after all, ignorance is bliss


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

I've looked in the supermarkets for paper-clips but they're all the plastic coated variety, I reckon the metal ones earth against the chassis so didn't bother buying any. My other half said they had tons of paper-clips at work so she's bringing some home for me.


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## fede_luppi (Jan 8, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> Can you not get the retained grinds out by blowing them out by whacking a lens hood in the throat? .
> 
> I don't think the plastic will make much difference (I could be wrong though)


The puff of air is not enough and I still need to use a pastry brush to recover all the grinds. If I am not single-dosing I don't care too much about the grinds behind the flap, I just grind until I get what I need. However, when my preferred coffee is scarce in my kitchen or I am fine tuning for a new package of beans I prefer single-dosing and I like getting out almost all I put in.

Yep, I also though the same about the plastic paper clips stopping the stream of coffee, but my quick attempt wasn't fruitful.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Just taken my doser partly off (put doser plate back in the right way) and decided to try a little mod with tin-foil..











Partly successful, although a little static remains (used some old Tesco beans, tasted crap btw..)


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Rhys, that video is flagged as private, change it to be public unlisted on youtube so we can see


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

marcuswar said:


> Rhys, that video is flagged as private, change it to be public unlisted on youtube so we can see


Youtube app, ho hum! try it now..


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

I have just tried with paperclips. A combination of static / retention remains however I can tap the sides and the coffee drops out. I can then move the paperclips aside and get to the throat to clear that (I use the handle end of a tea spoon which I have bent to achieve this. Works better for me than a brush).

Anyway, paperclip method I reckon will be the way to go for me. It won't solve it but makes it easier to get retention out, I have measured between 2g and 3g each time I single dose.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Tin foil failed, too flimsy I reckon - plus I can't get to the coffee stuck in the opening.. Waiting for paper-clips to arrive


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

yeah tin foil is definitely too flimsy Aluminium can is OK but is difficult to obtain correct angle is the aluminium is too springy making to hard to be precise.

I've just removed the flap from my RR55OD ; here is a picture of how much coffee was behind the flap even after puffing with the lens hood... more than I thought there would be !


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I just rigged up a paper clip wire across the funnels two retaining screws and added a few paper clips hanging down as a curtain on the RR55OD. Seems to work pretty well with less retention than the flap and also means it's now very easy to clean the exit chute! I'm sure with a little more experimenting I could get it even better.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

A quick test with a plastic paperclip on the RR55OD. I couldn't find a "normal" style only those flat triangular type.

Although its showing more static than with the metal paperclips I think this is mainly down to the shape of the paperclip rather than the material. Even like this it's exhibiting far less static than when I had an incorrectly adjusted flap. I think if anyone only has access to plastic coated paperclips they should definitely give it a go, I think they will find good results (like my first video using metal paperclips).


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## Mouse (Feb 28, 2014)

Marcus - A lot off topic... But.. Cracking Avatar!!!

Still Game for anyone that hasn't seen/heard of it, is possibly one of the funniest most charming (yet massively unknown outside of Scotland) TV series that I've ever had the pleasure of watching.

Definitely worth a watch for any of you that may not have heard of this little gem!

Good luck with the paper clips chaps!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks Mouse, yes "Sill Game" is brilliant. Full of humour and pathos. I hope I have as much fun when I'm a pensioner









Just watched all 6 seasons again last week, absolutely fantastic!

Jack and Victor also appeared as various sketches in "Chewin the Fat" which I've also watched but "Still Game" is much better.

Get it up yer !


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

Still having problems with static which I have been just getting around by leaving the lid off and brushing the grounds off the funnel and into the portafilter.

I've tried shaping the flap to get the grinds down in a stream. I have tried a number of spacings between the flap and the funnel but so far that has just been a rabbit hole. I have a thin sheet of foam rubber, sort of a very thin neoprene. Has anyone tried suing something like this between the flap and the funnel where they meet? Or perhaps between the funnel and the body of the grinder? Or both?

Does anyone know if there is a gap between stainless and mild steel on the triboelectric scale?

Did anyone experiment with anti static paint?

Its not a deal breaker but this is starting to ruin my experience with a grinder that os very good otherwise.


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## Pompeyexile (Dec 2, 2013)

for months now I have been static free with my RR55OD since fitting my copper flap and ensuring it is the recommended 4mm or so away from the mouth of the chute. No sticking whatsoever. Yes I do get a small bit of retention in the throat but a wiggle with a cocktail stick at the end and out it comes and that doesn't seem to cause problems with losing the 4mm sweet spot gap. I've also tried the sharp downward push of the camera lens hood and that helps too but I certainly don't seem to get the massive build up behind the flap some pictures are showing. Another way of helping to stop the build up of grinds behind the flap if you can be bothered, is to take off the lid. When you turn it on, as the grinds start coming out use either the back of your fingers in a flicking action or a teaspoon to tap against the flap.

I don't use a weight on the beans as I missed the glass tube group buy but I guess that could help too but then I only ever put enough in the grinder for a double shot at any time.

I noticed with the paperclip curtain that because they are so loose, grinds are still dispersing far into the funnel and sticking to the front RH side rim. Because my flap directs the grinds down I get no sticking at all.

So for me the brass flap set at 4mm distance works just fine, regardless of the beans I use. What amazes me is that these are grinders built not for home use but as commercial grinders to be used in a commercial environment with electronic timers for reasonably accurate dosing into the portafilter. How did they ever work properly?


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## truecksuk (Sep 22, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> A quick test with a plastic paperclip on the RR55OD. I couldn't find a "normal" style only those flat triangular type.
> 
> Although its showing more static than with the metal paperclips I think this is mainly down to the shape of the paperclip rather than the material. Even like this it's exhibiting far less static than when I had an incorrectly adjusted flap. I think if anyone only has access to plastic coated paperclips they should definitely give it a go, I think they will find good results (like my first video using metal paperclips).


Hi Marcus, where did you get with this in the end? Any luck getting it to work correctly?


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I went back to using a tin flap cut from a coke can. The paperclips did work and was simpler to get working to a degree but were less effective overall. The main advantage of the paperclips is that you can push them out of the way to clean the chute.


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## robti (Mar 27, 2013)

Just found my plastic flap lying in the bottom of my funnel On my 55 after years of no static, I have been trying various plastic flaps but not as good.

so has anyone a pic of the original flap in position( can't even remember if there was an Oem flap there in the first place or I moded it) lol


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

This is the original flap (mine is metal) in position although you will see that I have slightly bent it to direct the grinds towards the outlet of the funnel. It didn't make much difference actually. What did make the difference of reducing static as to be almost completely gone was to polish the funnel with Peak polish. That was not my discovery but a suggestion from a member who I can't recall the name of right now.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I've also polished mine with peek, i think it was charliej who mentioned it to me. For me the biggest improvement came from setting the flap to just the right distance from the exit hole. Too wide and there was still static, too close and it would clump or block up completley. For me the flap seems to have to be around 4mm from the hole, although it does depends on the beans as some are inherently more static than others. If the beans have a lot of static i have found that running my finger under the tap and then stirring the beans in the throat of the grinder (I use a camera lens hood hopper) with my wet finger helps a lot.


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