# e37s stalling



## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Hi all,

I'm a new owner of a used e37s.

I've not had much luck with the beast for now, it seems to keep stalling. I've spent the past few evenings trawling through the interwebs, taken the grinder mostly apart, put back together, and no joy









I'm currently about 4 numbers coarser than when the burrs touch. I don't think that's particularly too fine. Beans are a medium roast bean roasted a few weeks ago (rip beans). Also please excuse the mess around the grinder.









grind setting here, proof that my grinder is mostly clean here, here and here.

The jam will also happen if i grind at '10' with the grind adjustment lever screw holes remaining the same.

Here's the problem in action

Any one got any idea what could be causing this? burrs are fairly aligned, not the best but i highly doubt that is the issue. Video here for completeness

Thanks in advance. Any help would be much appreciated!

Egglet


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## PPapa (Oct 24, 2015)

The fact that no grinds are coming out immediately when you start grinding suggests clogging up.

Try opening or even removing the anti static flap to see if that is the issue?


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Sorry forgot to mention that in the video when i started to grind I did just clean out the entire chamber/vaccumed it before i started to film, maybe it is taking longer than it should to come out? I've not had the grinder long enough to know what is normal yet. In order - I took it apart, cleaned it, vaccuumed everything out, then started taking pictures during my reassembly and finally the grinding. The beans are still stuck in the chamber not moving but its also nearly sleepy time.

Egglet


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

I think you need to get the burrs further apart, so recalibrate the adjustment mechanism, it is likely the grind is way too fine


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

@coffeechap how much coarser would you recommend?


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

I would check the capacitor in the grinder.


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

L&R said:


> I would check the capacitor in the grinder.


Thanks. Is that the big white cylindrical thing sat on the circuit board at the bottom of the machine?

If it is the capcitator, how may that affect the grinder?

Egglet


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## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

Look at the clues........I'm currently about 4 numbers coarser than when the burrs touch.

With the Cedar, you take the hopper off, then the large rubber ring. That reveals the mechanism. The slider is held in place I think from memory by2 screws. Take them out and move the slider (you will have to work this bit out but it is the reverse of what you expect as it is back to front). This will then give you a whole new range of grind settings.

Your grind is too tight. Forget the numbers. Go off weight and time the shot takes


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

It's ground properly! Kind of.

Only at quite coarse grinds, I presume almost like normal ground coffee. Choked it up at about a '3' but ground like this fine at a '5'.

Grind size at '5'.

Almost about to run out of beans at home as well, have a long drive

Egglet


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

You should only adjust with the burr chamber empty, otherwise it locks the burrs

If there are grounds. left. in the chamber, remove the hopper and rock the burr nut back and forth (with finger and thumb) as you adjust, this way you wil know. if the burrs are jamming or locking


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

El carajillo said:


> You should only adjust with the burr chamber empty, otherwise it locks the burrs


Hi yes I only adjust finer when burrs running. Thanks for the advice though.

Egglet


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## Rob1 (Apr 9, 2015)

Have you opened the anti static flap?


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## christos_geo (Feb 9, 2016)

By the way, are you using a hopper or cylindrical tube and weight setup? I found that with the latter, if the weight was too heavy (~700g) it would result in stalling. Using half the weight had worked perfectly.


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

christos_geo said:


> By the way, are you using a hopper or cylindrical tube and weight setup? I found that with the latter, if the weight was too heavy (~700g) it would result in stalling. Using half the weight had worked perfectly.


Hopper with admittedly not a lot of beans at the time the picture of the grounds were taken.

Thanks.


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Rob1 said:


> Have you opened the anti static flap?


Yes I have, all the way, it's a rubber flat as well.

Thanks


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Hello folks, back from the weekend away armed with more beans hopefully (1kg of beans enough?!).

Been playing around with it this morning. Still the coffee is way too coarse 18g in, 36g out in literally <5 seconds. Currently stuck at the '5', if I go down to '4' it'll again start stalling. Scc flap open, exit chute etc all cleaned out.

From this, would you suggest that it it may be the fault of the capacitor? I'm at a bit of a loss.

Egglet


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

Very high chance it's the capacitor, sometimes when the capacitor is failing they can also run a bit rough.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Be careful when handling the capacitor. If it's got any charge in it, it can give a bit of a jolt.


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Will do. Thanks everyone for the helpful replies, will be ordering one this evening and will update the thread when I receive it.

Egglet


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Wel would you believe it, got a new capacitor, and everyone is happy again! Grinder purring away no problem.
Thanks for all your help guys







Much appreciated!
Egglet

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


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## L&R (Mar 8, 2018)

Not surprised. Enjoy it!


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

L&R said:


> Not surprised. Enjoy it!


 You did call it first!


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Strange enough, the same 'symptoms' are showing again after being problem free for the last 10 months. Do capacitors age and 'die ' this quickly? I bought a replacement 14uF capacitor from espresso solutions.


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

Egglet said:


> Strange enough, the same 'symptoms' are showing again after being problem free for the last 10 months. Do capacitors age and 'die ' this quickly? I bought a replacement 14uF capacitor from espresso solutions.


 Other things can cause a start/run cap to die faster. Drag e.g. bearings, something rubbing and holding it back. It can also be caused by a failure in stator windings sometimes it can be partial shorts across a few turns. It might be the start, or main field windings.

I think all you can do is replace the cap, and if it goes again quickly it's probably the motor windings or some drag on the motor.

It's used so you probably don't know it's history and running with a bad cap can actually cause damage to the windings because they can overheat.


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

DavecUK said:


> Other things can cause a start/run cap to die faster. Drag e.g. bearings, something rubbing and holding it back. It can also be caused by a failure in stator windings sometimes it can be partial shorts across a few turns. It might be the start, or main field windings.
> 
> I think all you can do is replace the cap, and if it goes again quickly it's probably the motor windings or some drag on the motor.
> 
> It's used so you probably don't know it's history and running with a bad cap can actually cause damage to the windings because they can overheat.


 Thanks for the informative post.

Apart from looking at the basic wiring bits and making sure everything's attached properly and no obv faults, is there any way of inspecting the windings?

Thanks.


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

Egglet said:


> Thanks for the informative post.
> 
> Apart from looking at the basic wiring bits and making sure everything's attached properly and no obv faults, is there any way of inspecting the windings?
> 
> Thanks.


 Not easily and if you have to ask, probably not... If you can get the resistances for the field windings both start and run, you could check them with a Multimeter (an accurate one), trouble is it can be shorted across a number of windings so the resistance could be close and you would have to know what the tolerances are...I suspect they won't tell you that. To visually inspect you would have to take the rotor out of the stator, even then you might see nothing.

It could also be a faulty switch, although if it's weak or starts when spun with fingers then it's cap. You might have had a bad cap, change it and if it goes again...sell the grinder on ebay as "may have a simple fault..I know nothing about grinders"


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Will take your advice on board. Not really in a financial position to be changing grinders for now though  
So maybe I'll just keep buying capacitors until I've saved enough. Or is that a bad idea from a fire/shorting point of view?

Thanks.



DavecUK said:


> Not easily and if you have to ask, probably not... If you can get the resistances for the field windings both start and run, you could check them with a Multimeter (an accurate one), trouble is it can be shorted across a number of windings so the resistance could be close and you would have to know what the tolerances are...I suspect they won't tell you that. To visually inspect you would have to take the rotor out of the stator, even then you might see nothing.
> 
> It could also be a faulty switch, although if it's weak or starts when spun with fingers then it's cap. You might have had a bad cap, change it and if it goes again...sell the grinder on ebay as may have a simple fault..


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

Egglet said:


> Will take your advice on board. Not really in a financial position to be changing grinders for now though
> So maybe I'll just keep buying capacitors until I've saved enough. Or is that a bad idea from a fire/shorting point of view?


 I don't spose it will catch fire or anything, might continue to work for 5 or 6 months at a time, if it is the windings partially shorted it will probably get worse and worse..Of course it may not be that at all, I don't know the true history of the grinder?


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## Egglet (Apr 16, 2014)

Aye if it gets shorter and shorter i'll probably sell it on or something.
Not sure about the history of the grinder either, was a commercial machine for the majority of its life, then was taken on by a light domestic user, then me, up to 5-7 cups/day. I mentioned it to the person I got I off and they've never experienced what I've experienced.


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

Caps can slowly age and die over time. It happens. Even the ones without a liquid electrolyte will eventually go out of spec enough to not do their job.

As Dave said, replace it and see if it dies again inside a year or so. If it does die again there's another fault, and that's going to be a reason to replace the thing, or buy another one for spares?


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

Late to the party on this one, but have you checked the burrs are aligned on the lower and upper carriers

The adjustment mechanism on the E37 can have some movement side to side particularly on a second hand one, I came across this recently the solution was to add some appropriate food safe grease of the right consistency or try Lipsil, this should reduce to almost nothing any movement side to side in the top carrier. For the bottom carrier check on the gap between each of the three sweeper arms and the outer edge of the bottom burr, if its out place temporary shims of paper to centralise it then once the screws are finger tight turn each one a quarter turn in sequence till they are fully tight.

then see if it has improved the situation, best of luck


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Again, late to the party. From the video and what @coffee chap noticed and what JBJ 55 said above there is something not true with the burr setting.

In the vid, the burr's are touching as you start the grinder and continue till you reach the R/H stop, this is not correct.

Have you had the top burr carrier off and THOROUGHLY cleaned out the chamber, particularly the sweeper arms ? Have you made ANY adjustments to the grinder with beans in ?

Any adjustment with beans in can cause a backlog / build up in front of the vertical part of the wiper arms which cannot be ejected acting as a brake on the spinning burr.

Remove both burr's and clean the back of them and where they sit on the carriers, clean out the chamber then re-assemble. Rotate the burrs with your fingers while moving the adjuster to the right until the burrs begin to touch, as there is play in the top burr carrier, use your fingers to press the carrier towards the back of the grinder, ( this usually settles the carrier down) Turn the burrs again to see if they still touch, if not move the adjuster until they do.

The adjuster arm should now be against the R/H stop. (burr,s just touching) Bring the adjuster arm back to the centre. This should set the burr's for an average bean, tightening or loosening depending on beans. For the different beans I use the setting varies between 4 and 6.1/2


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