# EK43 S internal difference from EK 43



## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

This might be useful to some as I don't think it's documented anywhere.

I opened my EK43 S for the first time yesterday trying to investigate a moving 0 point issue when grinding very fine, and when you remove the dial, there's a small plastic flat screw underneath the big metal screw which controls the grind setting. The screw was very lose and when grinding very fine I think can cause the setting to move around. Tightening it (but not too tight) resolved the issue.

The second thing is that after removing the dial plate, to remove the burr carrier and to clean the burrs, you can't just use pliers to pull it out as in several Youtube videos. I learned it hard way after scratching the paint on the front plate several times trying to pull it out. You need to put in two screws to the two holes and then pull using the screws.

I think these points might apply to new model EK43 as well.


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Also adding a juxatoposed image of the old and new dials










Here's a link to the new dial pic in case someone is better at Photoshop than I am (very likely: https://i.imgur.com/ryT8ETu.jpg


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## Lav (Aug 1, 2015)

Like this


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Yes, this is what I did to mine unfortunately..


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Another thing to note, how evenly you tighten the front screws effects the alignment, so always use a torque wrench to tighten the two front screws.

I'm not sure about which torque at the moment, so maybe someone else can advise.


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## Lav (Aug 1, 2015)

the_partisan said:


> Another thing to note, how evenly you tighten the front screws effects the alignment, so always use a torque wrench to tighten the two front screws.
> 
> I'm not sure about which torque at the moment, so maybe someone else can advise.


I am on 8Nm with this tool


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Another thing I learned the hard way: if you stall the grinder (i.e. try to run with burrs locked) there's a switch underneath the base which you need to press to get it going again.


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Lav said:


> I am on 8Nm with this tool


That's 1/4" I think right?


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

the_partisan said:


> That's 1/4" I think right?


8Nm is a measurement of torque = twisting force, Not sure what you mean by 1/4 " ?


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## Lav (Aug 1, 2015)

the_partisan said:


> That's 1/4" I think right?


It is 1/4" yes


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## Lav (Aug 1, 2015)

El carajillo said:


> 8Nm is a measurement of torque = twisting force, Not sure what you mean by 1/4 " ?


This is 1/4":


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

El carajillo said:


> 8Nm is a measurement of torque = twisting force, Not sure what you mean by 1/4 " ?


It refers to the size of the driver bit, I believe. When I was looking for different wrenches they were either 1/2" or 1/4"..


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I thought the post was trying to convert the torque. I was aware that the "drive" was 1/4". You can buy converters for the various sizes of drive but the lower rated torque wrenches will be 1/4" drive.

I have a set of tables for torque relevant to screw diameter/ quality/ thread. if you need the information.


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## the_partisan (Feb 29, 2016)

Titus recommended to tighten the screwes by 2NM, and then by 3NM. so 8NM seems on the high side. I have no idea what's optimal for that size of screws though! You should also coarsen the dial screw way back so that no part is sticking out from the plate.


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