# V2 Elizabeth OPV adjustment



## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

Hello,

I researched Dave's SWAY doc and searched this forum unsuccessfully but I'n sure this has been addressed before. I know on the new V3 it's stupid simple, but while I believe I've identified the V2 OPV, I don't see ANY adjustment nuts on it.

My unit goes to 12 bar using a blind basket and with my Sette 270 grinder I have never been able to pull shot under 10.5 bar that doesn't go too fast so I'm leaving flavor on the table. I want to set it to a Max of 9.5 to 10 bar for testing. Can someone point me to pics/steps or a vid link that shows that process for the V2 Elizabeth?

PS; I have changed the LCC to Dave's awesome settings and imo, should be MANDATORY before they leave the factory, I understand the firmware can be updated from 5.02 to 5.05, how is that accomplished without sending the whole LCC unit in to the dealer? Now to get my max pressure under control.

Cheers from across the pond!


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

@SproFTW - greetings!

check this video. Not the same machine, but it might be the same OPV. Check it out.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

With regards to the LCC&#8230; you may be able to buy a new one. I'm not sure if retailers have the means or facility to flash new firmware into them.


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

Thanks for the link, it's sort of the same but not exactly. I'm not sure where to separate the OPV from the connections (it's near the output of the pump).

That also raises the question, I have the machine all tore apart to even see what I believe is the OPV, how the heck do I make adjustments without putting it all back together since it appears it's a trial and error situation that would be an extreme pain in the arse. Since I don't want to damage anything that's why I'd like to see exactly how it's done on my model.

As to the LCC, I've read Dave referencing it can be updated, perhaps he'll see this post.


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

I watched the vid again and notice the adjustment portion was on end with the silicone tube so I removed it and saw what appeared to be the adjustment end with a screwdriver slot, the bad news it would NOT move and the slot began to deform.

Unfortunately I'll probably have to order a new one to get that adjustment screw broke loose and still figure out how to remove the two 90deg elbows to remove the existing one and of course, the USA distributor shows the part I need out of stock. I'll add that if you have a V3 consider yourself VERY lucky because a 4 yo could adjust that one not to mention the other improvements that Dave requested.

If anyone has done it on a V2 I'll welcome your tips!


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

SproFTW said:


> I watched the vid again and notice the adjustment portion was on end with the silicone tube so I removed it and saw what appeared to be the adjustment end with a screwdriver slot, the bad news it would NOT move and the slot began to deform.
> 
> Unfortunately I'll probably have to order a new one to get that adjustment screw broke loose and still figure out how to remove the two 90deg elbows to remove the existing one and of course, the USA distributor shows the part I need out of stock. I'll add that if you have a V3 consider yourself VERY lucky because a 4 yo could adjust that one not to mention the other improvements that Dave requested.
> 
> If anyone has done it on a V2 I'll welcome your tips!


 I think the adjustment screws are threadlocked in. Don't get the same part, order a more standard expansion valve that has easier adjustment.

As for the new software, it will work fine on a V2 Elizabeth, but I am pretty sure Lelit don't allow the retailers to flash the LCCs. I can actually flash them, but it's a little involved. Easiest thing is to simply order a replacement LCC, this way you get the proper working of steam preinfusion the way I asked for it to be done to avoid overly hot water entering the brew boiler and some other nice features.

Plus if your pump ever fails, perhaps in 8-10 years, or you want a spare, get a QuietX pump and keep yours as a spare....the machine becomes super quiet....although it's pretty quiet as it it, it become really quiet. Pumps very easy to change too....can do at same time as expansion valve.


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

DavecUK said:


> I think the adjustment screws are threadlocked in. Don't get the same part, order a more standard expansion valve that has easier adjustment.
> 
> As for the new software, it will work fine on a V2 Elizabeth, but I am pretty sure Lelit don't allow the retailers to flash the LCCs. I can actually flash them, but it's a little involved. Easiest thing is to simply order a replacement LCC, this way you get the proper working of steam preinfusion the way I asked for it to be done to avoid overly hot water entering the brew boiler and some other nice features.
> 
> Plus if your pump ever fails, perhaps in 8-10 years, or you want a spare, get a QuietX pump and keep yours as a spare....the machine becomes super quiet....although it's pretty quiet as it it, it become really quiet. Pumps very easy to change too....can do at same time as expansion valve.


 Dave,

Thanks for the reply, I'd love to order a different OPV however the V3 design won't work as it since mine looks just like the one in the vid that MRS linked to (T design vs a straight through design of V3), It would seem I'd have to add fittings and tubing to be routed the same way as V3 since it has a 4 way connection from the boiler and mine is a three way, I'm sure with the proper parts and directions I could do it but I'm not sure exactly what part numbers I'd need.

Understood on the LCC, I don't believe the US distributor sells the LCC's separately but I'll look again.

The Mara-X pump would indeed be nice but it's $125 USD and I'm saving for an end game grinder right now so that has priority.

Again, thanks for your settings because out of the box folks have NO IDEA how far off their water temps are when they pull the shot, I was shocked.


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

@SproFTW order an expansion valve like they used in expobars, but with the brass not plastic adjuster and put it in the same place as your existing one. I have one on the shelf and will try and take a photo of it tomorrow.


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

SproFTW said:


> V3 since it has a 4 way connection from the boiler


 My pet hate of the machine. I've re-routed mine! 😂 - I don't like that design. Makes me angry. 😂


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

DavecUK said:


> @SproFTW order an expansion valve like they used in expobars, but with the brass not plastic adjuster and put it in the same place as your existing one. I have one on the shelf and will try and take a photo of it tomorrow.


 Got it, I'll research. Thank you Sir!


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> My pet hate of the machine. I've re-routed mine! 😂 - I don't like that design. Makes me angry. 😂


 Interesting, back to the V3 or something different?


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## MediumRoastSteam (Jul 7, 2015)

SproFTW said:


> Interesting, back to the V3 or something different?


 There's a thread here. But that X connector should really be an Y connector, as one of the ports leads to the back of the steam tap for no reason. The other to the safety valve. But, because the X connector is higher than the safety valve, the water from the OPV "floods" the safety valve port. Safety valve gets hot, as it's attached to the boiler, and you hear hisses and gurgles.

there's nothing wrong with that, it's just poor design.

I have effectively routed the OPV to the tank on its own, and the safety valve to a gap on the joining on the side - not ideal, but the safety valve should never trigger. If it does, turn your machine off as something is wrong. As it's stands, I can put everything back together as it originally was.

On the Elizabeth V3, I don't understand why it doesn't join the vacuum breaker outlet to the drip tray. I'll do that one day when the machine is out of warranty. IMO, a better solution, far more elegant. But I'm sure Lelit had their reasons.


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## SproFTW (Jul 24, 2021)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> There's a thread here. But that X connector should really be an Y connector, as one of the ports leads to the back of the steam tap for no reason. The other to the safety valve. But, because the X connector is higher than the safety valve, the water from the OPV "floods" the safety valve port. Safety valve gets hot, as it's attached to the boiler, and you hear hisses and gurgles.
> 
> there's nothing wrong with that, it's just poor design.
> 
> ...


 Very interesting, thanks for explaining. I think Lelit should name their next model in honor of you and Dave😉.

Cheers from across the pond!


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## MCProtis (Feb 5, 2021)

MediumRoastSteam said:


> I have effectively routed the OPV to the tank on its own, and the safety valve to a gap on the joining on the side - not ideal, but the safety valve should never trigger. If it does, turn your machine off as something is wrong. As it's stands, I can put everything back together as it originally was.


 Let's see some pics!!


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