# Removing boiler nut from La Pavoni



## BigBadWolf (Sep 28, 2014)

Hi guys!

I'm currently restoring an ancient La Pavoni Professional, worse condition than I have ever seen on here, without contest.

I already took everything apart to see what needs replacing, de-corroding , descaling and cleaning, but now I hit a dead end with the boiler nut. The bloody thing doesn't want to come off.

I've started using a lever with the factory tool, didn't work. Then I saw that OE used a hammer in their rebuild, so I got a hammer. Didn't budge.

The brass is already a little chipped from the hammering, even though I put wood between the hammer and brass, so I'm afraid to keep hammering.

Does anyone here have experience with this kind of problem, or any recommendations of what tools to use, or how to loosen the nut?

Thanks so much.

Ps.: In case "boiler nut" is the wrong word for it, I didn't know what to call it so I googled it, and this is what I mean:

http://www.coffeemaker-spareparts.com/La-Pavoni-Spareparts/La-Pavoni-Boiler-Bodyparts/La-Pavoni-boiler-nut-brass::4042.html


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## "coffee 4/1" (Sep 1, 2014)

stop the hammer now! long time ago i believe it was a immersion heater box spanner it's tough metal but you need to cut slots in it to fit the nut, once you replace with new washer

your get a good leverage to tighten the seal. good luck.


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## Jumbo Ratty (Jan 12, 2015)

Id try lavishing it in WD40 and leaving it to penetrate overnight, if you haven't already


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

WD40 as above would be the first thing to try, if that doesn't work then get a heat gun on it.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

BB recommended taking it to a garage with pneumatic tools to undo it.

When I took mine off with the help of El Carajillo it made the noise of the giant iron statue from Jason and the Argonauts.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

We used a strap to turn the opposite way wrapped round the thickest part of the boiler (top or bottom).


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Yes ..definitely no hammering


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## Richard Penny (Nov 14, 2014)

Strap wrench worked for me on a grinder adjustment collar that wouldn't budge.


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## AMurrayNash (Mar 2, 2015)

Just wondering do they come that shape or is from compression off the pf over time,

Was checking to see if it's ok

as getting quite a bit of water down the sides when using a vst and my new flat torr


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

AMurrayNash said:


> Just wondering do they come that shape or is from compression off the pf over time,
> 
> Was checking to see if it's ok
> 
> as getting quite a bit of water down the sides when using a vst and my new flat torr


Not quite sure what you are asking but have you checked the group seal for hardness or damage ??


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## No big name! (Oct 25, 2012)

Jumbo Ratty said:


> Id try lavishing it in WD40 and leaving it to penetrate overnight, if you haven't already





Dylan said:


> WD40 as above would be the first thing to try, if that doesn't work then get a heat gun on it.


I don't agree... WD40 isn't the right stuff for freeing stuck nuts etc.... Try a penetrating oil


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I totally agree with No b n. WD40 is not the best stuff for releasing nuts and bolts, it is more of a general purpose lubricant and moisture dispersant.

For freeing rusted /corroded fixings "Plus Gas" is far more effective and is use specific.


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## No big name! (Oct 25, 2012)

El carajillo said:


> I totally agree with No b n. WD40 is not the best stuff for releasing nuts and bolts, it is more of a general purpose lubricant and moisture dispersant.
> 
> For freeing rusted /corroded fixings "Plus Gas" is far more effective and is use specific.


For anyone wondering; the 'WD' stands for Water Displacement.

And the '40'?

Well..... The first 39 tries didn't work!

True


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

To the layman (that would be me) who has WD40 in his shed (kitchen cupboard) and no penetrating oil. I would inevitably end up using it first


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