# Replacing a Mazzer Major Capacitor



## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

I'm thinking of replacing my Majors Capacitor.

I was just making sure I was picking the correct one from Espresso-solutions.co.uk.

Do I need the 702311 MJR 220v 16F

OR 702312 MJR 110v 60F?









The 220v 16mf is £70 cheaper


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

urbanbumpkin said:


> I'm thinking of replacing my Majors Capacitor.
> 
> I was just making sure I was picking the correct one from Espresso-solutions.co.uk.
> 
> ...


I'm no expert but I'd have thought the 16f as that's what is on the capacitor pictured. Also you don't have 110v household supplies in the UK (pressuming that's where you are) so I'd go for the 220v one


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

joey24dirt said:


> I'm no expert but I'd have thought the 16f as that's what is on the capacitor pictured. Also you don't have 110v household supplies in the UK (pressuming that's where you are) so I'd go for the 220v one


That was my thinking, just wanted to double check.


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

urbanbumpkin said:


> That was my thinking, just wanted to double check.


I'd be the same lol. It's not so much how costly a thing is but more the chew of sending back wrong stuff haha


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Yeah I don't know the correct value for the Major (unless that pic is in fact from your grinder) but 110V is no good to you. 16 microfarads (uF) - there isn't a 'mu' on an iPad keyboard - is enough to give you a fair old jolt though, so make sure you allow plenty of time for it to discharge before getting hold of it. That's the thing with capacitors, they store and hold onto their charge for a while even when disconnected (that's what their job is). A big one can bite you, and make sure you don't connect an electrolytic cap the wrong way round either, (although it will soon be 5th November if you must try!)


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

702311 looks good

μF ... just showing off


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)

Do be careful though. Stun guns use far lower capacitance than that. Anything above 48V DC can shock you. The voltage rating is just a rating that says how many volts you can put across it without it breaking. The capacitance in Farads (or fractions thereof- 1 Farad is immense) is a measure of how much energy it can hold - in other words, if the voltage is high enough to push a current through your skin, the number of microfarads will decide how long that current will flow for. There's no hard and fast rule about what size cap is dangerous, and it's difficult to know exactly how much charge could be stored in there. You'd have to assume it might be 16uF worth of 240V. You'd have to take into account your skin's resistance and whether you're sweating (electrolyte makes you more shock able). Really you should discharge it slowly with a large drain resistor, don't short it out with a wire or screwdriver, but don't assume it's empty either. They can, under the wrong circumstances, either explode and spray you with chemicals (if it's an electrolytic) and also give you a jolt like a defibrillator (with the obvious negative consequences). Sounds over dramatic but better safe than sorry!


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Start-and-Run-Motor-Capacitor-450vac-50-60-Hz-4-7-8-12-5-16-20-25-UF-/231855527729?var=&hash=item35fbaa9731:m:mfwrpLrRIRh9xkdPtza_S5Q

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-16UF-Microfarad-Appliance-Motor-Start-Run-Capacitor-/291817709076?epid=1477194653&hash=item43f1b0de14:g:8FgAAOSw7XZXhjhV

Both the same rating if yours has terminals that accept spade connections. If you have a clamp then use it rather than the end mounting bolt.

High voltage rating lasts longer 16µF same as yours CE marked as they should be BSEN number the same


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

grumpydaddy said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Start-and-Run-Motor-Capacitor-450vac-50-60-Hz-4-7-8-12-5-16-20-25-UF-/231855527729?var=&hash=item35fbaa9731:m:mfwrpLrRIRh9xkdPtza_S5Q
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-16UF-Microfarad-Appliance-Motor-Start-Run-Capacitor-/291817709076?epid=1477194653&hash=item43f1b0de14:g:8FgAAOSw7XZXhjhV
> 
> ...


Cheers, so I don't have to use the Specific Mazzer one?


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

No any generic one is fine

why are you changing this .?

what do you mean £70 cheaper ? ( these should be about £7-8 tops )


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thecatlinux said:


> No any generic one is fine
> 
> why are you changing this .?
> 
> what do you mean £70 cheaper ? ( these should be about £7-8 tops )


The 702312 MJR 110v 60F one is £79 on the website I quoted earlier.

The grinder occasionally sticks, although it hasn't done this for a while. Fingers crossed.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

Must be a massive ripoff . Espresso solutions charge £81.26 for the 702312, £7.26 for a 702262 but both are wrong for your grinder. Personally I cannot figure that price at all because both of these mentioned do the same job

Almost as bad as buying car parts from a main dealer


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Mine sticks, infact I had to take my burr carrier off the other day as it stuck with a a bit of coffee. Can't use a hopper on mine.

I'll watch this thread, and wait for a bang!!


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Ditto Catlinux: 220v 16uF generic is fine. Should be less than £10 all in.

(Mazzer will buy them in, in bulk, probably from China...)


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

urbanbumpkin said:


> The 702312 MJR 110v 60F one is £79 on the website I quoted earlier.
> 
> The grinder occasionally sticks, although it hasn't done this for a while. Fingers crossed.


i very much doubt the capacitor is your problem


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thecatlinux said:


> i very much doubt the capacitor is your problem


What do you think it is? The contactor clicks but the burs don't move straight away.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

Try a new capacitor first.

If the problem still exists, a new contactor may be needed: If you have one, use a multimeter to check the output voltage.


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## Thecatlinux (Mar 10, 2014)

Check the obvious first and make sure all your connections are good , I am not sure if that is a run capacitor or a start capacitor , normally if a start capacitor fails the machine wouldn't start at all .

A run capacitor would normally be in place for Power factor correction (don't worry )

check the obvious


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thecatlinux said:


> Check the obvious first and make sure all your connections are good , I am not sure if that is a run capacitor or a start capacitor , normally if a start capacitor fails the machine wouldn't start at all .
> 
> A run capacitor would normally be in place for Power factor correction (don't worry )
> 
> check the obvious


I've checked the connection a couple of times and they seem to be sound, so looking at other options.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Contactor contacts burnt ? resistance ?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> Contactor contacts burnt ? resistance ?


Sorry Frank you've pushed me past me knowledge of electrics. No sign of fire







....please explain in laymans terms


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

> Contactor contacts burnt ? resistance ?


A contactor is like a relay or switch.... it has electricity coming in, then some thing happens either physically or electrically and then electricity comes out.

Once the electrical contacts become worn or 'burnt', then they can have a high resistance and fail to give the voltage out... some times its a go / no go situation, other times it can be intermittent.

Measuring and comparing the input to the output voltage when the 'switch device' (a rose by any other name) is actuated will reveal all.

Voltage measurement* is very important in fault finding as it could be quite a few things that are causing the 'intermittent' problem

* with simple non electronic equipment, even using a test lamp instead of a dedicated volt meter will reveal a lot (but as volt / multi meters are so cheap now a days then there is no excuse for not being the proud owner of one)


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

DaveP said:


> A contactor is like a relay or switch.... it has electricity coming in, then some thing happens either physically or electrically and then electricity comes out.
> 
> Once the electrical contacts become worn or 'burnt', then they can have a high resistance and fail to give the voltage out... some times its a go / no go situation, other times it can be intermittent.
> 
> ...


I've got a volt meter, what do I need to do?


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

Well... I've read the thread, and can't find an exact description of the issue your having.

So please let us know the hows/ whens and wots appening

There are circuit schematics on line so once the issue is defined then pointing you in the right'ish direction will be easier.


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## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

If you find that a new contactor is needed, ensure that it is a "resistive load" type. The Mazzer Royal contactor spec. is 230v, 18amp, resistive. PM me for details, prices, etc.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

DaveP said:


> Well... I've read the thread, and can't find an exact description of the issue your having.
> 
> So please let us know the hows/ whens and wots appening
> 
> There are circuit schematics on line so once the issue is defined then pointing you in the right'ish direction will be easier.


I have the Mazzer Major set up with an Auber timer and a short glass tube with a weight on top to give consistent weight as the bean stack goes down.

Occasionally what happen is you press either the manual button or one of the timed buttons and nothing happens.

Instead of the burrs turning you hear Contactor click, and a humming sound but the burrs don't turn.

Sometimes the burrs might turn a tiny bit or eventually turn slowly.

If I remove the some of the beans then they eventually start turning.

It doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes it happens when the tube is halfway down with less weight on it (and it's been working fine when it's full).


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

From those symptoms IMHO...and as you said in the very beginning, the capacitor would be the first suspect

From this page... https://www.achrnews.com/articles/84931-the-motor-doctor-diagnoses-motor-capacitors (have a read for testing procedures)



> A motor with a short-circuited capacitor often will start and run, but with less starting torque and lower full-load rpm than normal.


Here is the circuit, ok its for 110v but apart from component ratings it should be the same.









If the capacitor checks out ok, then the contactor would appear not to be providing voltage to the other motor winding.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

This was the diagram I used in the end.

I put a bigger block in which then reduced the amount of cables going into a Contactor terminals.


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

> I put a bigger block in which then reduced the amount of cables going into a Contactor terminals.


And errrrrrrr when did the issues with the motor start happening ?

cos theres a bit of a problem with the wiring circuit you have posted with a missing connection to number 2 on the contactor


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

DaveP said:


> And errrrrrrr when did the issues with the motor start happening ?
> 
> cos theres a bit of a problem with the wiring circuit you have posted with a missing connection to number 2 on the contactor


It's always done this.


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## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

I put that diagram together from an original posted on here. the "black wiring" to the motor has not been altered by me. The missing wire I think you are talking about is in the first diagram and is just part of the loop through when the various interlocks/auto fill are in use. These are different positions/connections to the switch too


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

@DaveP do you still think the wiring diagram is incorrect?

This was the original thread, I think #79 is the latest revision of the diagram.

Mazzer Major Auber Antics

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_type=t&share_fid=6813&share_tid=36735&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcoffeeforums%2Eco%2Euk%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D36735


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## DaveP (Jul 14, 2017)

I've just read the other 10 page thread about this.... I had no idea of what you were up to, lol

My advice with this problem would be to undo everything, return the machine to 'stock' and wire it as it was intended and then see if it works as designed.

Once its proved to be working correctly we can then discuss what you want to achieve


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for all of the advice.

Thanks for the suggestion but after having previously wiring and re-wiring the Major several times (which turned out to be a dodgy Auber timer) I think I may go down the capacitor replacement for £3.50. I think there's only so many times I can try and successfully fit multiple connection in a Contactor termination point without losing my mind. 

Can totally understand the logic of stripping it back to standard wiring, but running beans from a hopper without the Auber timer is going to waste a ton of bean whilst waiting for an intermittent fault to re occur.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

If you do replace it please let us know if it resolves the issue. My Mythos does the same thing occasionally.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

marcuswar said:


> If you do replace it please let us know if it resolves the issue. My Mythos does the same thing occasionally.


Will do Marcuswar.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Have you changed the capacitor yet Clive ? If so any improvement ?


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> Have you changed the capacitor yet Clive ? If so any improvement ?


I haven't Frank work and home life hectic at the moment. I've not even ordered it. But will keep you posted.


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

Old thread followup...

Did this work? Keep meaning to sort mine out.


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

Hi Rhys

I never got round to it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## urbanbumpkin (Jan 30, 2013)

What's making you think of doing yours?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Rhys (Dec 21, 2014)

urbanbumpkin said:


> What's making you think of doing yours?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


 It works if there's no load on the burrs but with a hopper on it won't work.

It's just stood in my utility room doing nowt and I thought i might as well put it all back together and have it running with some espresso blend in it.


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## Max9 (Apr 1, 2020)

I am being a bit cheeky here I know but, on the same topic should I start with a capacitor change to try and cure my Eureka Olympus of a noisy start up? Or is there anything else I could try ( I have limited electric ability but have a cheap multimeter. ) any help/advice greatly appreciated


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