# Gaggia / Silvia - Pt100 RTD sensor for PID



## MrShades

I've developed these sensors to augment PIDs that are using K thermocouples. Using the Pt100 gives you greater accuracy and access to 0.1c resolution on most PIDs (certainly on the Rex C100).

They are 3 wire devices for improved accuracy and are set inside brass M4 bolts with thermal paste and thermal adhesive.

The Auber ones have very delicate wires and delicate / fragile connections - using more robust high temp wire and shrink wrap will hopefully make these easier to work with and less fragile.

They're not easy for me to make - and just wanted to do it to see if I could, but am willing to make a few to help fellow owners out.

Sold with a small brass M4 washer, bagged and* including UK postage for £17 * (with payment via PayPal Friends and Family or bank transfer, or any other method that means I don't get hit with charges).

(If you're a member on here, and would like International Shipping, then I'm willing to do so at cost - and at your risk - so if it goes missing somewhere in Eastern Europe or Japan or the US, and you've not elected for an insured delivery option then it's your loss, not mine. Contact me via PM if you'd like International Shipping quotes - and let me know whether you want cheap/cheerful or fully insured / tracked / traced, etc.).

[uPDATE 17th Dec 2014]

I've now gone into "production" on a V2 of these sensors, and not that the build quality on the earlier ones was bad at all - but these are better. I've got 'a few' of them - so stock currently isn't a problem, and I don't see it being a problem in the foreseeable future... so if you want one then please just PM me and I'll send you payment details, etc.

These new units are now 750mm leads (which I may well change to 500mm for the next batch - as I think 750mm is still a bit too long... but the Auber ones are only about 450mm which fits/reaches but is slightly too short for my liking.

For the record, these sensors are:

- Pt100

- Class A

- Mounted in an M4 screw thread, ready for simple fitting into the existing thermowell of the Gaggia boiler

- Three wire (two red, one white)

- 750mm lead wires, bare ends

- 7/0.2mm dia silver plated copper wires

- Thin PTFE sheathed in orange

- OD : 2.13mm +/- 0.15mm

- Pretty damn robust... and you certainly don't feel petrified when handling them or screwing them into the boiler.... like you do with some others!

Anyway, here's some updated pics of the new ones.... Anyone that has ordered one in the last 5 days will be getting these in the post ASAP




























I've got a few bagged up and ready to go... with more waiting in the wings:










Fitted:










*** Update 6th April 2015 ****

Just so that everyone knows the situation - I keep these in stock and aim to always have stock of them available, so don't worry about checking with me - I'll continue making them until the demand dries up or I get bored of it (and in either case I'll post on here and update).

So - available and will be available until I say otherwise on here, just PM me for payment details.

Thanks

*** Update 4th July 2015 ****

Still plenty of these in stock, but if you're considering PIDing your machine then check out my latest project: custom aluminium enclosures for the PID - with 45mmx45mm cutout, a wire hole in the back (with grommet) and even some great mounting tape to stick it to your machine. Just £20 delivered for forum members - AND NOW **** SPECIAL OFFER *** if you order a Pt100 sensor AND a case, then the case is just £18 - so sensor and case for £35 delivered*

See here for more: http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?25140-Aluminium-PID-enclosure-all-cutouts-ready-for-a-PID-to-slot-straight-in&p=322748#post322748

Quick photo of the case:










### Update January 2018 ###

I've managed to maintain the original price of these for the last few years but with my costs increasing I've got no choice but to increase the selling price of these from £15 to £17, still inc UK postage so still providing excellent value (IMO)!


----------



## majnu

These look great and good value. What length is the cable? I would have tested this if it wasn't for the fact the Auber ones are very delicate to take out and install, (I don't want to break it).


----------



## MrShades

Cable is 1m long - but could be cut to length if you want... the Auber one is a bit short if you ask me!

I don't want to break mine either, so have only bench tested the functionality and fit. Still, if I break one - I just put one of these in (seems like a waste of £25 and the cost of the parts for these though!).

They're pretty simple devices to test - as the 100 refers to 100Ohms (and the Pt being Platinum obviously) - which is what the resistance is designed to be at 0c. Thereafter the resistance increases with temp.

This is interesting and useful if you have a Pt100 and a multimeter: http://www.tnp-instruments.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/pt100_385c_table.pdf


----------



## Jim bean

Hi Mrshades looks well made I'd be more than happy to test this if that's ok

cheers James


----------



## majnu

MrShades said:


> Cable is 1m long - but could be cut to length if you want... the Auber one is a bit short if you ask me!
> 
> I don't want to break mine either, so have only bench tested the functionality and fit. Still, if I break one - I just put one of these in (seems like a waste of £25 and the cost of the parts for these though!).
> 
> They're pretty simple devices to test - as the 100 refers to 100Ohms (and the Pt being Platinum obviously) - which is what the resistance is designed to be at 0c. Thereafter the resistance increases with temp.
> 
> This is interesting and useful if you have a Pt100 and a multimeter: http://www.tnp-instruments.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/pt100_385c_table.pdf


I found the Auber ones very short too, mine just barely reached the PID terminals. It wasn't ideal as I like leaving slack for cable management.

All the DIY PID folk should be snapping this up. Best mentioning this in the Silvia section also. Additionally it's probably best mentioning that this won't fit on specific Silvias as they don't have a threaded thermowell. I remember reading a caveat on Auber's page.

Edit - Here:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=21


----------



## Krax

I would like to give one of yours PT100s a trial please. I hope to convert my classic to PID in the next couple of weeks so am happy to be a pilot, or will pay the £15 if I have missed the opportunity.


----------



## MrShades

That's great Krax - will drop you a PM


----------



## Jim bean

Hi Mrshades works a treat thanks very much for your help it's a lot more accurate/faster than the k type

cheers james


----------



## MrShades

Well done James... It's so easy to remove the boiler and makes for MUCH easier fitting of the tc or RTD (I still have the scars on my knuckles from fitting the tc with the boiler in situ!)

Having that extra detail in the temp reading makes it all worth while 

Good stuff...


----------



## Jim bean

No idea why but steam power has improved again and so has recovery time after steaming I'm running 2c lower going of taste

I've not checked the off set yet just waiting for some JB weld to fully set on my thermofilter but really happy with it so far

cheers james


----------



## joe

Could I put an order in for one of these please?..super looking quality.


----------



## MooMaa

Hi MrShades,

could I please order one of your very attractive sensors

Moo


----------



## colm1989

I would certainly be interested in one of these if you are making more, am hoping to PID my gaggia classic in the coming weeks!


----------



## gingerneil

These look fantastic - but I know very little about how to fit it and what PID to pair it with. I have an electronic engineering background (but years ago!), so confident enough given instructions. Are there any recommended guides ? I'd be happy to pay the £15 for one... (and will obviously need to go shopping for the PIC etc).


----------



## majnu

gingerneil said:


> These look fantastic - but I know very little about how to fit it and what PID to pair it with. I have an electronic engineering background (but years ago!), so confident enough given instructions. Are there any recommended guides ? I'd be happy to pay the £15 for one... (and will obviously need to go shopping for the PIC etc).


This should help

http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?19674-DIY-PID-Steam-and-Brew

You have a choice of PIDs. These seem to be the most common ones:

- Auber

- N2006P or TET612 that are Auber Clones

- Sestos D1S-VR-220

- REX C100

- MyPIN TA4


----------



## MrShades

Will try to find time over the coming few days to make some more and will contact those that have expressed interest via PM


----------



## gingerneil

Excellent, thanks.


----------



## MrShades

** Update **

See first post for an update - I've now got plenty of stock of these, so if you want one then please PM for payment details etc.

The 'new and improved' V2 version is much more professionally built than my previous 'beta' versions... and I have a good supply of them now, so just ask and I can get them in the post ASAP.


----------



## gingerneil

+1

Working perfectly with my Rex.


----------



## noelweston

Dumb question here - I'm planning to go the diy pid route very soon, but haven't fully read (or understood) the instructions.

The classic has 2 thermostats - one for water and one for steam. Does one of these with the pid setup replace both?

Thanks

Noel


----------



## truecksuk

noelweston said:


> Dumb question here - I'm planning to go the diy pid route very soon, but haven't fully read (or understood) the instructions.
> 
> The classic has 2 thermostats - one for water and one for steam. Does one of these with the pid setup replace both?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Noel


Noel, if you ever get around to modding your rr45, please start a thread


----------



## gingerneil

Yes. The PID works by setting a target temp that is fed back to its controller using the RTD. I have mine set to 102C, giving about 94C on the group due to the temp drop as the water pumps (not tested this drop tho). The PID 'blips' the heater to ensure the temp holds steady at the 102, and comes on for longer periods mid-shot to bring it back up when the water is flowing.

The PID also has an 'alarm' input, and when this is tripped the alarm algorithm takes over and the action of the PID is to bring the temp to whatever the alarm setting is set to, ignoring the 'steady state' of the 102C setting above. The alarm input of the PID is wired up to the steam switch - so this state kicks in when the steam switch is pressed. I have this set to 45C (so the target temp in this state is 102+45=147C).

If you follow the wiring on the google doc, it removed the brew thermostat, and disconnects the steam thermostat.

Let me know if you go ahead - I've got a few spares hanging about that I didn't use and could send you....

I have an SSR-40AA on the slow boat that should arrive this week - I wont need this as I got bored waiting and ordered a UK one from Amazon! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111378737547

Some piggy back connectors I have left (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201022141267)

plenty of 24AWG I wont need (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360880299699 - white)

some tubing for the wires going from the back of the PID into the Classic (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121505712339)

I could spare a few fuses from the 10pk I bought (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291209642586)

That's about it - but if I don't pass them on they'll just sit on a shelf in the garage for the next few years until I chuck them out!


----------



## JVDAS

gingerneil said:


> Yes. The PID works by setting a target temp that is fed back to its controller using the RTD. I have mine set to 102C, giving about 94C on the group due to the temp drop as the water pumps (not tested this drop tho). The PID 'blips' the heater to ensure the temp holds steady at the 102, and comes on for longer periods mid-shot to bring it back up when the water is flowing.
> 
> The PID also has an 'alarm' input, and when this is tripped the alarm algorithm takes over and the action of the PID is to bring the temp to whatever the alarm setting is set to, ignoring the 'steady state' of the 102C setting above. The alarm input of the PID is wired up to the steam switch - so this state kicks in when the steam switch is pressed. I have this set to 45C (so the target temp in this state is 102+45=147C).
> 
> If you follow the wiring on the google doc, it removed the brew thermostat, and disconnects the steam thermostat.
> 
> Let me know if you go ahead - I've got a few spares hanging about that I didn't use and could send you....
> 
> I have an SSR-40AA on the slow boat that should arrive this week - I wont need this as I got bored waiting and ordered a UK one from Amazon! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111378737547
> 
> Some piggy back connectors I have left (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201022141267)
> 
> plenty of 24AWG I wont need (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360880299699 - white)
> 
> some tubing for the wires going from the back of the PID into the Classic (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121505712339)
> 
> I could spare a few fuses from the 10pk I bought (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291209642586)
> 
> That's about it - but if I don't pass them on they'll just sit on a shelf in the garage for the next few years until I chuck them out!


Hi there from London- been lurking for a while with the intention of PIDing my classic. Just been reading up and

i would be be happy to buy these bits off you and go with the pre made pt100 on offer by the OP. That means id be able to buy just the pid off amazon(sestos) and get stuck in. Figure I'll need an inline fuse holder and some other mains / silicon awg and assorted crimp terminals. Have recently joined so may not have pm rights. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I have only just gotten interested in decent espresso and milk based drinks as a precursor to giving up smoking- need another vice









I am am a total newb but have carried out the opv and v2 wand mods. Have dialled in my grinder as well (recent eBay purchase) with some 15 day beans.


----------



## gingerneil

Yep -no problem. I'll have a look tonight and make sure I've still go everything listed above. You'll need another SSR too


----------



## JVDAS

Wow thanks Neil! Speedy response indeed. I will get the kit with ssr then..(itchy trigger finger waiting to buy so that I have weekend to play about) I do have steam / brew in mind but just not sure about steam implementation ( 12v dc ssr or another ac) given that the sestos I understand does not have enough juice to drive second ssr from alarm. Apologies in advance if I have misunderstood or have muddied up thread. Still intend to use op's pt100 tc. Cheers once again GN!

ps link to google doc to which you were referring in your earlier post would be much appreciated. I intend to do a step by step for dummies like myself (as a pay it forward for the forum) with no electrical engineering background with the usual disclaimers. I have read the auber guide etc and it looks pretty ok until numerous posts about the lack of documentation for setting up the sestos.. Am I making a schoolboy error in my choice of pid? Just figured I preferred it to the Rex ones which purport to be from japan when they clearly are not ( the ones I've seen anyway) -although many have successfully employed the clones without any adverse effects (fires and the dreaded call to insurers while being given the state of disapproval and emasculation by the mrs).


----------



## gingerneil

No problem.

I went with a rex from ebay and its working perfectly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271615893521

Here's the main thread - quite a read!

http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?19674-DIY-PID-Steam-and-Brew


----------



## JVDAS

Amazing find. Item bought. Seller ha 0 feedback but I guess you got yours fine so it should be ok. Thanks again ! I have been digesting the long thread by Manju and am even more determined to take the plunge !


----------



## gingerneil

Here's what I've got left and can send you. Just pm your address.

The little bag has crimp ring connectors that I used when I ran out of spades. I think they're better anyway as they can't pull out.


----------



## JVDAS

Pm sent - let me know what to PayPal you and many many thanks once again! I have offered to pay the seller an up charge to expedite dispatch but am not holding out much hope. It will get here when it gets here... You are an absolute star btw!


----------



## gingerneil

Just got your address and will post asap.


----------



## MrShades

JVDAS said:


> Pm sent - let me know what to PayPal you and many many thanks once again! I have offered to pay the seller an up charge to expedite dispatch but am not holding out much hope. It will get here when it gets here... You are an absolute star btw!


...and I've also replied to the PM that you sent me about the Pt100 sensor - but heard nothing back from you.

Let me know via PM if I can help further.

Adrian


----------



## teejay41

Hello Mr Shades... I'm a new member and still feeling my way around the forum, so apologies if I've not quite followed the correct procedure.

I would like to convert a Gaggia New Baby to PID. I've just bought a REX-C100 PID module + SSR on eBay for that purpose. It comes with a K-type thermocouple, which I can see won't fit a Gaggia boiler. Providing your device is REX-C100 compatible, I'd very much like to go for one. PayPal would be my easiest way of transferring funds, if you would be good enough to provide the relevant details. Although I am not yet familiar with PIDs, I am well at home with electrics/electronics, so fitting a PID would present no problems.

One quick question... am I right in thinking that by altering a target temperature on the PID's display, one can quickly and easily swap between brew and steam temperatures?

Note: I tried to send this reply as a PM, but the forum wouldn't let me as I have not yest posted the requisite five threads - just two, so far.

Thanks and regards,

Tony.


----------



## optman88

Dear MaShades, I am located in HK, i am planning to upgrade my Silvia with PID, i got everything buy wanna try with your tailor make RTD sensor. My Brother @ london, UK, Okay that i ask him transfer money to you and you send the cable to him ? Thanks a lot


----------



## MrShades

teejay41 said:


> Hello Mr Shades... I'm a new member and still feeling my way around the forum, so apologies if I've not quite followed the correct procedure.
> 
> I would like to convert a Gaggia New Baby to PID. I've just bought a REX-C100 PID module + SSR on eBay for that purpose. It comes with a K-type thermocouple, which I can see won't fit a Gaggia boiler. Providing your device is REX-C100 compatible, I'd very much like to go for one. PayPal would be my easiest way of transferring funds, if you would be good enough to provide the relevant details. Although I am not yet familiar with PIDs, I am well at home with electrics/electronics, so fitting a PID would present no problems.
> 
> One quick question... am I right in thinking that by altering a target temperature on the PID's display, one can quickly and easily swap between brew and steam temperatures?
> 
> Note: I tried to send this reply as a PM, but the forum wouldn't let me as I have not yest posted the requisite five threads - just two, so far.
> 
> Thanks and regards,
> 
> Tony.


I'll PM you payment details.

Your quick question: The easiest way to operate with the REX C100 is to use a single SSR and use the PID simply for brew temperature. Leave the steam thermostat in situ and continue to use the regular steam function - it should work as it does now.

If you want to, then you can install a 2nd SSR (or diodes or 12V PSU and more complex wiring for a single SSR) and have the PID operate the steam temp as well by using the PID's "Alarm" function. You can then set the Alarm value to (for example) +30C and it'll then control (vaguely - but not as vaguely as the steam thermostat does!) the steam temp and allow you to adjust it using the PID alarm offset.

If you're happy wth the standard steam, then just go with a single SSR and continue to use the standard steam function - and the PID just controlling brew temp.

HTH

Shades


----------



## MrShades

optman88 said:


> Dear MaShades, I am located in HK, i am planning to upgrade my Silvia with PID, i got everything buy wanna try with your tailor make RTD sensor. My Brother @ london, UK, Okay that i ask him transfer money to you and you send the cable to him ? Thanks a lot


Yes, that's fine - will PM you payment details. Happy to ship to your brother, etc.

Shades


----------



## gingerneil

Personally, I'd urge you to go for the steam option too. It's trivial wiring, costs very little for the second ssr, and the pid supports it. Setup is easy, but the result is awesome. I love the Brew temp control I get, but the extra steam power is by far the best thing about having the pid.


----------



## MrShades

Just a quick FYI - and in line with the update on the first post of this thread... I have plenty of these sensors now, and plan to continue making them ahead of demand (at least until demand dries up or I get bored - in which case I'll post on here to say so). So if you want one, yes I will have some - just PM me for payment details and I can normally post them out pretty quickly.

If you want, and are a member on here, then I will also post internationally with an additional postage fee - normally just Royal Mail cost price for the international postage (and you decide which international service you want).

Thanks!


----------



## williejohn

Hi MrShades, if you have any more left of the P100 RTD sensors, I would like to buy one please, i`m at present waiting for PID parts to arrive.

if you have, PM me your payment details, thank


----------



## MrShades

williejohn said:


> Hi MrShades, if you have any more left of the P100 RTD sensors, I would like to buy one please, i`m at present waiting for PID parts to arrive.
> 
> if you have, PM me your payment details, thank


PMd you.

I don't exactly keep one eye on this thread - so if anyone does want one of these then it's usually best to PM me, as I can miss posts like the one above sometimes.


----------



## timmyjj21

Nice! I just joined them forum and a PM shall be sent as soon as I get my post count up to 5!


----------



## johnsiap

Hi MrShades .

I would like to ask if is possible to send to Greece.

thanks.


----------



## MrShades

Have replied to your PM


----------



## deved

Hi, just joined the forum, I am interested in you RTD - can you give me a quote for shipping to the Czech republic? PM sent...

Thank you!


----------



## MrShades

deved said:


> Hi, just joined the forum, I am interested in you RTD - can you give me a quote for shipping to the Czech republic? PM sent...
> 
> Thank you!


Glad to - PM sent


----------



## MrShades

I've sent you a PM about your payment @deved - Could you reply ASAP so that I can post your sensor please?


----------



## deved

Just to let know - I have sensor already in my Viva Gaggia, my chineese clon of rex-C100 after the setup works with it flawlessly! Thank you MrShades!


----------



## The resurrection

Hi shades

do you still have any of the sensors left I'll be needing one for the pid I've just picked up in the for sale section I'm presuming it's just a case of using this instead of the auber one which broke upon removal from the sellers machine. Let me know and I'll PayPal money over

thanks


----------



## lacigas

Hi MrShades

I'm interested in the sensor as well. Could you please give me a quote on the postage to Germany or Switzerland?

Thanks,


----------



## MrShades

Will PM you later


----------



## Joseph54

Hi, I'm also interested in the sensor. I'm from Taiwan, can you please send me a quote ? Thank you


----------



## MrShades

Joseph54 said:


> Hi, I'm also interested in the sensor. I'm from Taiwan, can you please send me a quote ? Thank you


Will pm you with shipping costs

Thanks!


----------



## nardus

Hi, I realy could use this sensor with metric m4 thread !

Send you a PM.

Thanx in advance.


----------



## MrShades

Replied to your PM - thanks.


----------



## analogmonster

Hi, first posting so I cannot PM yet. I would like to buy one please, I am UK based


----------



## MrShades

analogmonster said:


> Hi, first posting so I cannot PM yet. I would like to buy one please, I am UK based


Happy to help - but I need to send you payment instructions etc by PM, hence you really need to be PM-able! I'm not posting email addresses in publically accessible areas for obvious reasons.

Perhaps, as you're new, you could introduce yourself in the Introductions section and engage with members briefly thereafter to get your post count up and then drop me a PM and we can sort this out?


----------



## mumbleman

I have sent you an email regarding this. Thanks


----------



## MrShades

mumbleman said:


> I have sent you an email regarding this. Thanks


Have replied... Thanks (I assume it's Tom?), and I'm glad you found us!


----------



## mumbleman

MrShades said:


> Have replied... Thanks (I assume it's Tom?), and I'm glad you found us!


Thanks again arrived safe and sound.


----------



## O_P

I'm new to the forum so can't PM you but can you PM with my shipping costs to the US for the box and sensor combo? These look better than the Auber ones for sure.

Cheers


----------



## MrShades

O_P said:


> I'm new to the forum so can't PM you but can you PM with my shipping costs to the US for the box and sensor combo? These look better than the Auber ones for sure.
> 
> Cheers


Hi O_P - Which box (1/32DIN or 1/16DIN)? If you answer this question and then perhaps post an intro to yourself/your coffee journey then before you know it you'll have enough posts to PM me.


----------



## O_P

The 1/32DIN is the one I'm after, thanks. Do you use the Auber controller in them? Thanks.


----------



## O_P

Also what sensor do you use for the thermocouple?


----------



## MrShades

O_P said:


> The 1/32DIN is the one I'm after, thanks. Do you use the Auber controller in them? Thanks.


If you mean, "Does the Auber controller fit?" then the answer is Yes.

If you mean "Do I use the Auber controller in the 1/32 kit that I sell?" then it's No.

Whilst its not the Auber controller in my kit but it is probably around 95% the same both technically and aesthetically.

It doesn't say"Auber" on the front and doesn't have their custom firmware that provides the basic preinfusion function that they offer.

The sensor is my own custom made Pt100 RTD sensor, that is (in my and probably many others opinions) more robust and better made than the similar sensor from Auber. Mine is 3 wire, they only use a 2 wire device.

If you'd like to know more then please just ask.


----------



## ssg

Hi, I am posting for first time so I can't PM yet.

I am trying to build as cheap as possible PID controller with arduino/rasberry pi/similar boards and I am missing thermocouple sensor for reasonable price. Your seems to be reasonable considering that it will fit my Silvia April 2006 perfectly without modding.

Anyway, can you quote me shipping cost to Finland.

Also, your sensor uses 3 wires. Most K-type thermocouplers use 2 wires. I need thermocoupler amplifier if I use this with arduino/rasberry pi. They come in 2 wire models. Any idea how your sensor would work with something like that?


----------



## pavo

Hello Mr. Shades! I joined this forum just for this thread!

Also interested in getting your Pt100 sensor for my Gaggia.


----------



## MrShades

ssg said:


> Hi, I am posting for first time so I can't PM yet.
> 
> I am trying to build as cheap as possible PID controller with arduino/rasberry pi/similar boards and I am missing thermocouple sensor for reasonable price. Your seems to be reasonable considering that it will fit my Silvia April 2006 perfectly without modding.
> 
> Anyway, can you quote me shipping cost to Finland.
> 
> Also, your sensor uses 3 wires. Most K-type thermocouplers use 2 wires. I need thermocoupler amplifier if I use this with arduino/rasberry pi. They come in 2 wire models. Any idea how your sensor would work with something like that?


Once you can PM me then please do so and I'll gladly help.


----------



## MrShades

pavo said:


> Hello Mr. Shades! I joined this forum just for this thread!
> 
> Also interested in getting your Pt100 sensor for my Gaggia.


As above, please contribute to the forum a little more, be an active member and gain access to the PM function - and then PM me and I'll gladly help.


----------



## pavo

noelweston said:


> ...The classic has 2 thermostats - one for water and one for steam. Does one of these with the pid setup replace both?


Okay, I understand that with a PID I only need one of the sensors... but I found a PID that has input for two and can average between them. Would it make sense to get two of these, replace both thermostats, and take the average reading from the side and top of the boiler?


----------



## MrShades

pavo said:


> Okay, I understand that with a PID I only need one of the sensors... but I found a PID that has input for two and can average between them. Would it make sense to get two of these, replace both thermostats, and take the average reading from the side and top of the boiler?


I'd personally say "no".

The stats are in different locations - one "in the water" (or below the normal water level inside the boiler) that being the brew-stat; and the other "in the steam" (ie at the top of the boiler, where steam would normally be found) and that's obviously the steam-stat. In normal use, due to the locations of the heating elements, I'd suggest that the reading from the brew-stat location would be higher than the reading from the steam-stat location (although heat rises, etc. so it's possible that that this could be wrong - I've never checked!).

Anyway, they'll be different.... and the average of them won't accurately reflect the temperature of the water.

So - as the brew temperature is the crucial one, where you want the temp reading of the (soon to be) brew water to be as accurate as possible, I'd say that using the sensor on the brew-stat location (closest to the water leaving the boiler) is the best solution. Using this location to also sense/control steam temp is fine, as the steam temp control doesn't need to be anything like as accurate.

If you'd prefer to buy two sensors then I'll happily sell you two - but I think you could spend your money more wisely (as a dual-input PID controller probably isn't cheap!)


----------



## haz_pro

Are you still selling these? A kind forum member is sending me his old PID kit for free, but he thinks the temp sensor might be knackered.

Cheers.


----------



## MrShades

haz_pro said:


> Are you still selling these? A kind forum member is sending me his old PID kit for free, but he thinks the temp sensor might be knackered.
> 
> Cheers.


Yup - still do them, and I think I've just replied to your message about buying one.

Thanks!


----------



## Choronzon

Hi all, I seem to be having problems with everything these days! I got one of these in mail today, very quick from @MrShades thank-you. I took out boiler again and screwed it in carefully. Put it all back together. I am using a Sestos D1S VR PID

http://www.sestos-hk.com/english/download/d1s-en.pdf

and initially put the 2 red wires in 4 and 5, with the white in 3. However it shows 640C at room temp, I have tried other combinations to get it to work, left one red free and red in 4 white in 3, it said 23C but the temp went down v slowly as boiler came on. Then I swapped white to 4 red to 3. It said 23 and went up v slowly to 30, but then I checked and it was producing lots of steam from the steam wand. Does anyone have any ideas? Previously it was set up with a wire attached to the outside of boiler with Sugru. I am not sure what that was, or if I need to change some settings on the Sestos to get it to recognise the RTD correctly?

Thanks in advance sorry for being a pain.


----------



## MrShades

Choronzon said:


> Hi all, I seem to be having problems with everything these days! I got one of these in mail today, vry quick from @MrShades thankyou. I took out boiler again and crewed it in carefully. Put it all back together. I am using a Sestos D1S VR PID
> 
> http://www.sestos-hk.com/english/download/d1s-en.pdf
> 
> and initially put the 2 red wires in 4 and 5, with the white in 3. However it shows 640C at room temp, I have tried other combinations to get it to work, left one red free and red in 4 white in 3, it said 23C but the temp wernt down v slowly as boiler came on. Then I swapped white to 4 red to 3. It said 23 and went up v slowly to 30, but then I checked and it was producing lots of steam from the steam wand. Does anyone have any ideas? Previously it was set up with a wire attatched to the outside of boiler with Sugru. I am not sure what that was, or if I need to change some settings on the Sestos to get it to recognise the RTD correctly?
> 
> Thanks in advance sorry for being a pain.


You'll need to reconfigure your PID for a pt100, yes. They're normally configured for a K type thermocouple as standard.

Refer to your PID manual and it should tell you how to do this. Sorry I can't help, as I don't use those PIDs and they all tend to be quite different when it comes to config.

Adrian


----------



## Choronzon

Beautiful, thankyou @MrShades so much! Once I knew where to look. Something finally went well today. The actual manual for the sestos is pretty abysmal, I found a very helpful "Secret" manual for the Sestos D1S here https://sestosd1s.blogspot.com as you said it was set for a K type thermocouple. So I changed the Sn from 0 (K) to 21 (pt100)

Now it is working fine, although I need to tune the settings as it is overshooting too much but that is to be expected. Great! Can start trying/learining to make espressos again!


----------



## JanB

Hi, being a new member I can not PM. I would very much like to buy your sensor.

Do you still ship?


----------



## MrShades

JanB said:


> Hi, being a new member I can not PM. I would very much like to buy your sensor.
> 
> Do you still ship?


Yes. Once you have posted on here sufficiently and can PM, please contact me and I'll be glad to help.


----------



## KiwiCoffs

Hi! Do you @MrShades make a PID kit for the GC 2015?

cheers


----------



## MrShades

KiwiCoffs said:


> Hi! Do you @MrShades make a PID kit for the GC 2015?
> 
> cheers


No I don't, sorry - and currently have no intention of doing so.


----------



## KiwiCoffs

MrShades said:


> No I don't, sorry - and currently have no intention of doing so.


No worries, thanks anyhow


----------



## Zampano

Hi. If still available I'm interested in one of your sensors.

I'm in the USA.

cheers!

James


----------



## MrShades

Zampano said:


> Hi. If still available I'm interested in one of your sensors.
> 
> I'm in the USA.
> 
> cheers!
> 
> James


Send me a PM when you can and I'd be pleased to help.


----------



## grumpyjag

Lol, I bought one of these from you on ebay, didn't notice this thread just the full PID ones. Oh well. You live and learn.

Thanks for the speedy service @MrShades the sensor arrived an hour ago - 4 days earlier than expected


----------



## keewhip

Hello,

I think my current Pt100 Rtd sensor died (kit from auber ins).

The auber ins syl unit started to have strangre measurements on startup, going up and down like crazy.
In this process the settings on the auber ins are altered (some to values you can't normally select).
For instance the heating cooling option (0 or 1) gets set to 255.

After a few minutes the fluctuation ends and you can reset the values to the correct ones again.
Now the PID doesn't show any temperature anymore (just EEE.E).

I expect this to be a faulty sensor.
Do you still stock these sensors and do you maybe have a picture?

Thanks,
Kasper


----------



## Cynary

@MrShades I'm a new member, but am very interested in adding PID control to my gaggia classic pro. Your probe seems like the best available option out there for precision+quality.

Do you still make these? I'm located in California, but am happy to pay for shipping. I'll PM you later today, once I've explored the forums a little more, and posted some more


----------



## L&R

mistake pls del


----------



## Jbrunt1990

MRShades, are you still selling the box and thermocouples? I'm about to PID my Kitchenaid Artisan so would be interested if you still produced them/had any in stock.


----------

