# Help! My Pavoni has died!



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Working fine this morning. 
But now won't switch on. 
I think the thermofuse has blown.

Am I right in thinking that this brown bar shaped thing is the thermofuse and if I touch a multimeter to the blue and red connections if it says 'O.L' the fuse has blown?

where would I get a replacement?


----------



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Right, crisis over. I just bypassed the thermofuse. 
Ok, so totally unsafe but I'll get a new one. 
Anyone know if the new style (resettable) one can fit?


----------



## Nicknak (Aug 10, 2018)

http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/La_Pavoni/Faidate/termostato_eng.htm

He says yes ... worth a look ..


----------



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Nicknak said:


> http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/La_Pavoni/Faidate/termostato_eng.htm
> 
> He says yes ... worth a look ..


 Nice one thanks Nick. 
I was almost in shock I wouldn't have my morning coffee!


----------



## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

I had this same problem, but different models may have different situations under the bar fuse.

Disconnect from mains.

Remove old bar fuse. If you have a circular cavity the new reset fuse nearly goes in. I reemed mine out with a Dremmel type tool and a sanding barrel. This had a sort of rubber barrel with a screw end that you can fit new/different grade emery tubes over---ask if you need pic! There should be a thread (started by me) with pics of the job.

I then used Araldite to glue the new fuse into the enlarged recess.

Plan B was to use the old fuse retaining screw and modify the new fuse mount.


----------



## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

Ps. Fuse should be obtainable from

https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La-Pavoni-Lever-Safety-Thermostat-127C---436040/m-2244.aspx


----------



## Batian (Oct 23, 2017)

PPS

Start here:

https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/43970-la-pavoni-pro-wiring-problem/?tab=comments&do=embed&comment=634086&embedComment=634086&embedDo=findComment#comment-634086


----------



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Nice one, thanks guys. I'll get on that ASAP


----------



## Blue_Cafe (Jun 22, 2020)

Why did it blow in the first place Tom?

Loose wire? Failing elements? Dry sump? Power surge?

Might be worthwhile finding out. Certainly, don't hot wire it until you get a replacement fuse!


----------



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Blue_Cafe said:


> Why did it blow in the first place Tom?
> 
> Loose wire? Failing elements? Dry sump? Power surge?
> 
> Might be worthwhile finding out. Certainly, don't hot wire it until you get a replacement fuse!


 I fear it might be the element on it's way out. 
Occasionally it makes 'thumping' noises as it warms up.
Apparently this can be something to do with air bubbles. Cavitation?

Although it could be the boiler went dry as it was running low and I was steaming for ages.


----------



## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

Ah, I would be waiting till the replacement as well and not jumping the element...

Mine also makes the odd clanging noise like a kettle when heating up, I had assumed it was normal. Have you measured the resistance across the element terminals to see if that has changed?

Couldn't remember if yours was a single element or an older two switched pre-millennium with a high and low temp.

https://www.home-barista.com/repairs/la-pavoni-heating-element-resistance-across-terminals-t40286.html

https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/48414-la-pavoni-element-resistance/?do=embed


----------



## TomHughes (Dec 16, 2019)

Northern_Monkey said:


> Ah, I would be waiting till the replacement as well and not jumping the element...
> 
> Mine also makes the odd clanging noise like a kettle when heating up, I had assumed it was normal. Have you measured the resistance across the element terminals to see if that has changed?
> 
> ...


 Cool,

Yeh I need to check again, but those were the kind of numbers I was getting when I tested the elements.

I spoke to my neighbour who is an army comms and electrical engineer and he couldn't see a problem with just bypassing it as a temporary measure.. Lots of early models didn't even have one according to what I'm finding.

I'm presuming if the fuse was good and not adding any additional resistance then essentially it's just a straight electrical connection.


----------



## Blue_Cafe (Jun 22, 2020)

TomHughes said:


> Cool,
> 
> Yeh I need to check again, but those were the kind of numbers I was getting when I tested the elements.
> 
> ...


 Probs burnt out because of the element resistance changing due to no load from the empty boiler.

There is no problem bypassing the thermal fuse. It just means you have no protection for the element should you run it dry again and the consequences of actually burning out the element may be more serious. You could damage the machine or cause a circuit short. (Kaboom!)


----------



## Northern_Monkey (Sep 11, 2018)

@TomHughes - You are right about the thermal fuse being effectively a straight connection unless the temperature is exceeded.

I'm probably being overly cautious, but some of the old Pavs didn't have a thermal fuse or an earth either! 😂

If the element is good then it should be OK, but I would put a surge protector between the machine and the wall socket until I had it all sorted out as a minimum.


----------



## StevenG91 (Dec 7, 2019)

Northern_Monkey said:


> @TomHughes - You are right about the thermal fuse being effectively a straight connection unless the temperature is exceeded.
> 
> I'm probably being overly cautious, but some of the old Pavs didn't have a thermal fuse or an earth either! 😂
> 
> If the element is good then it should be OK, but I would put a surge protector between the machine and the wall socket until I had it all sorted out as a minimum.


 No thermal fuse on mine 😂, old style wiring.


----------

