# Gaggia Classic 2011 refurb.



## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Having completed the rebuild on my 2002 Gaggia Classic over the weekend, I had it on for a few hours to check for leaks and the see if the thermostats were working, all okay.

I now need to learn how to use it properly!

I've now started to do a similar thing with a 2011 model. This I managed to buy locally from a charity shop. More than likely a one owner machine, not used a great deal. I first changed the steam wand for a V1 / V2 Rancilio one, then primed it and tested it for leaks and to see if it was heating up okay.

The main difference between this model an d the 2002 one is the quality of the components, smaller solenoid, OPV and steam valve made of something other than brass? not sure.

When I opened the boiler, there appeared to be more leakage on one side than the other.

The boiler face that meets the group was not quite flat on one side, (maybe that was why it was slightly leaking?)

I used a file to try and take some of the roundness off, being careful to keep it flat as best I could.

Then I used some 400 grade wet and dry on a flat surface to polish the face up.

I wonder if someone could tell me if the "crazing" to the inside of the group is anything to be concerned about?


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)




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## Blue_Cafe (Jun 22, 2020)

These old Gaggia boilers 🤢


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## Blue_Cafe (Jun 22, 2020)

The crazing is the chrome plating fracturing away from the brass body.

No need to worry about some distortion in the body. Its a ring seal so the flanges are not important.


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Blue_Cafe said:


> The crazing is the chrome plating fracturing away from the brass body.
> 
> No need to worry about some distortion in the body. Its a ring seal so the flanges are not important.


 Thank you for the information, much appreciated.


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

@Mulligrub Are the bolts for the solenoid and the OPV the same as the boiler ones? On the 2002 one I mean


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> @Mulligrub Are the bolts for the solenoid and the OPV the same as the boiler ones? On the 2002 one I mean


 The bolts for the boiler are 6mm Allen. OPV and Solenoid are 4mm. First photo shows boiler bolts second OPV and Solenoid.


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Thanks @Mulligrub do you know if they are M6 x 16 and M4 x 12?
I've broken one boiler bolt already so am soaking and heating when I'm next having a go


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

All the bolts and their OEM specs are listed here:

http://www.mrbean2cup.co.uk/download-document/er0182gaggiaclassic-rev05

It's worth your while to buy stainless if you can, but do replace as many as you feel need it.

Now I must go back to trying and failing to get the boiler bolts out of a used Classic myself...


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

allikat said:


> All the bolts and their OEM specs are listed here:
> 
> http://www.mrbean2cup.co.uk/download-document/er0182gaggiaclassic-rev05
> 
> ...


 Thanks @allikat so none of those are M4 but solenoid and OPV are M5x12

Thanks for the info 😎


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Started to reassemble the boiler today, a new gasket fitted. Looks a bit cleaner!

I used the same bolts, and tightened them alternatively opposite corners. 
New gaskets to solenoid and OPV. Fitted new thermostats to boiler, 107 degrees for brew, 155 degrees for steam,(up from 145) Iused a bit of thermal paste on the thermostat base. I put the steam valve on next leaving the bolts finger tight. someone told me to leave them like this until the boiler assembly is mounted back in position. You can then push on the steam knob, centre it in the hole, then tighten the steam valve to the boiler. Remember to put the steam protection washer on before you do this, not like me, the first one I did I forgot and had to take the steam valve off again to put the protection washer on!
Put all the numbered connections back in place, connect water pipes.

Will prime the machine tomorrow, and check for any leaks!


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)




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## MrSmartepants (Aug 3, 2020)

Lookin' good!


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Mulligrub said:


> Started to reassemble the boiler today, a new gasket fitted. Looks a bit cleaner!
> 
> I used the same bolts, and tightened them alternatively opposite corners.
> New gaskets to solenoid and OPV. Fitted new thermostats to boiler, 107 degrees for brew, 155 degrees for steam,(up from 145) Iused a bit of thermal paste on the thermostat base. I put the steam valve on next leaving the bolts finger tight. someone told me to leave them like this until the boiler assembly is mounted back in position. You can then push on the steam knob, centre it in the hole, then tighten the steam valve to the boiler. Remember to put the steam protection washer on before you do this, not like me, the first one I did I forgot and had to take the steam valve off again to put the protection washer on!
> ...


 Just an update on my 2011 Classic. Now reassembled, primed, with no leaks as yet.

I adjusted the OPV (I did it before I started to strip it down?) lesson learned! The reading this time was a bit over 10 bar, up from 9.5? I adjusted it back to 9.5 bar on the pressure gauge.

I hope to fit a front panel mounted pressure gauge next.

I know others have done this, I need to look at previous posts on the subject. But would be grateful for any tips, what to do and what not to do! position, use the tee joint method near the pump?

Will update, and no doubt ask about how to get a good extraction from my machine!

Thanks to all for your help in getting me to this point!


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Fitted and tested a @FairRecycler pressure gauge to my 2011 Classic over the weekend. 
Very pleased with the end result.


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)




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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Nice one Rob - What's next? Wings?


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## Nightrider_1uk (Apr 26, 2020)

Those Q-max cutters are great for cutting holes. What size did you use?


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Uncletits said:


> Nice one Rob - What's next? Wings?


 😄 maybe fit the PID to this or the 2002 one? 
Are you liking the Eureka?


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## Mulligrub (Jun 24, 2020)

Nightrider_1uk said:


> Those Q-max cutters are great for cutting holes. What size did you use?


 41.3mm. I borrowed it off @FairRecycler to do the job, a great bit of kit. You need a good extension bar to provide a bit of help turning the Allen key, or you could use a "T" bar?


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Mulligrub said:


> 😄 maybe fit the PID to this or the 2002 one?
> Are you liking the Eureka?


 Going really well - Trying Indonesia Beans from Limini to start


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