# Kitchenaid Artisan steam/water problem



## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

I might have just bought one for peanuts on Ebay. It has come to my attention that I am very protective of my fully restored and very wonderful GC and whilst it was my intention to bring it to the office, I will struggle to give up morning coffees at home and also weekend coffees at home, to say nothing of how much anxiety it gives me to think of leaving it in the building when I'm not there lol. It just won't be practical to heft it around daily or weekly either, so I'll keep it at home where it fits very nicely in my small kitchen and save the special beans for home use to benefit from the PID precision - using a good house blend at work where I'm used to drinking starbucks level stuff off mobile cafes anyway - and given the Artisan cost next to nothing, if someone touches it, it won't matter to me that much. If they all go for as little as I paid it certainly won't be hard to acquire another.

The Artisan won't be here until Friday/Monday but according to the seller it all works fine but for the hot water dispensing feature of the steam boiler - but the steam works fine. The case is in excellent condition - was aware of the bubbling enamel but this one seems perfect, no scratches, chips or bubbles. Listing indicates that it was only used for leisurely weekend breakfasts and then children came along and those were a thing of the past! I obviously wouldn't be happy using it without the water feature working simply for filling the steam boiler, not because I ever think I'll use the machine to make hot water.

Am I correct in thinking that there is a 2 way solenoid on the steam boiler to control the flow of water vs steam that is likely scaled up and stuck? I know most of the insides are GC based and I have to admit that comfort level I have obtained with the innards of the GC helped push me to this machine along with the low cost so if it's likely a blocked valve I can happily find a way to get it apart. I intend to strip it down and clean it all up anyway, but I know a few people around the forum have had them in pieces before from reading some older threads so thought I might find out where to focus my attentions before I dive in. Am I right in assuming adjusting the OVP is the same process as the GC? I guess buying that pressure gauge for the portafilter wasn't a waste after all if so. I've got a Silvia wand coming as I couldn't go back to the panerello for anything so that will need to be fit anyway and as I won't be PIDing this but just hoping the temp gage on it gives half an idea when it's at a high point of it's heat cycle I'll likely add the uprated steam stat at some point once I get it all up and running, as I know now that I've cracked when to bleed and when to start steaming the milk on my PIDed GC it's going to be hard to go back to the standard steam pressure. It has loads of grunt cranked up to 145 though.

I'm worried that I've started now, collecting machines. There will be no end.


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## Norvin (Sep 10, 2014)

It's a while since I worked on mine so i may be a bit hazy.

Yes, there is a solenoid controlling water into the steam boiler. It can be seen on the photo by the right hand (steam) boiler. If the machine is producing steam then it is likely that the valve is working, possibly the RH push button switch is not working.

The OPV is adjusted by inserting an allen key through a hole in the rear of the case, remove the water tank and you should see it.

Best to renew the seal on the steam boiler while you can, once it starts leaking the screws holding it together can seize in.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

ah thanks for the image - so it's basically two Classics in one housing  good to know!


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

I've had my GC in complete pieces, it was a saga lol.

So the one thing I can't find a definitive answer to is if you can't draw hot water out of the steam arm, how do you ensure the steam boiler is full after using steam? Does it auto fill on this model? The seller said it continued to make frothed milk without issue but I manually refill my GC after each use of steam and understand this process is good for the boiler. Hmm.


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Just read prime the boiler after steaming on the kitchen aid


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

coffeechap said:


> Just read prime the boiler after steaming on the kitchen aid


 Unfortunately according to the seller the hot water button doesn't work and pushing this button to pump hot water is the way the instructions indicate to rinse and fill the steam boiler. I'll have to strip and rebuild and see if it's button issue or mechanical issue to go from there I suppose. Or buy a second one with a different fault and make one functional one lol, they're only a few quid a go!


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## Morningfuel (May 19, 2016)

It was you that pipped me to this! Cheeky 

Looks a great machine for tinkering.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Morningfuel said:


> It was you that pipped me to this! Cheeky
> 
> Looks a great machine for tinkering.


 Ha! Sorry!

I have found wiring diagrams and now know more about switches than I ever wanted to. I know what kind of switch is required and should be able to replace it from somewhere like Farnells if that's the fault. It has some sort of a microswitch to refill the steam boiler while the espresso boiler is pulling a shot so it should at least be protected from running dry. I just hope it looks as good in person as it does on the advert.

There is a lot of info about these available on Australian coffee forums, they must have been a lot more popular over there. My one mistake is thinking that a v2 Silvia wand would be a straight swap. Apparently the kitchenaid is articulated and the olive at the end of the stock one makes it more difficult. I look forward to the project though. There are people on the Australian forums who PIDed them and added functionality to idle the steam boiler at a lower temp to protect the seals.

Basically it's Christmas time and I'm putting off studying for my next work cert by studying broken coffee machines and how to repair them ?.


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## Morningfuel (May 19, 2016)

That sounds great! I'm really looking forward to tinkering with my classic, and a kitchenaid seems a great level up - an affordable dual boiler! Once I'm confident enough with mine I'll likely pass it on to another forumite and grab one of these (or similar).

Helps that they're good looking!


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

My GC is PIDed and I'll be keeping it at home. This will be going to work. It's apparently not as good as a true dual boiler as it has to flick back and forth, it can't power both at once but once it's up to temp it just flicks between to maintain temp in both.

I was in on two Fracino heavenlys but someone pipped me. I was a bit nervous about them anyway as the pictures were in a business kitchen and the seller put an invoice up claiming both were freshly serviced but one worked and one was for parts but the service tech indicated he had checked them for functionality only and one worked and one didn't. The idea of a HX appealled but I'm pretty comfortable with GC parts already and working on a huge HX machine was a bit daunting, to say nothing of how much more of an impact it would have made on work's counter space. Was a blessing to lose in the end I think, to say nothing of how much cheaper these are to buy.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Norvin said:


> It's a while since I worked on mine so i may be a bit hazy.
> 
> Yes, there is a solenoid controlling water into the steam boiler. It can be seen on the photo by the right hand (steam) boiler. If the machine is producing steam then it is likely that the valve is working, possibly the RH push button switch is not working.
> 
> ...


 So the machine is here. Heats up and water comes out of the espresso group aOK. The button is not the problem on the steam side, or at least it doesn't seem to be on first examination. When you press it, it drives the pump but water comes straight back out into the tank so I'm guessing that's either the solenoid or the button controls two circuits on one throw, so it could be doing the pump side but not whatever the other circuit is I guess? I'll have to spend more time with the wiring diagram. There was also no steam, even though the temp gauge for the boiler got up into the business range so I'm guessing the boiler is now not filling, or I got nervous and turned it off too quick. I think I'll start with a tear down of the solenoid on the steam side.

This machine has a pipe over the OPV to make sure any overflow water goes back into the water tank and not all over the bottom of the case as that was a big cause of corrosion on early machines. I think that makes the process a bit harder but I'm sure I saw an instruction on the Aus form for this version so I'll do more reading now that the machine is actually here.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Solenoids can get stuck due to scale build-up or similar. If you hot-wire it you should be able to hear it engage (DISCLAIMER: obviously, don't mess with with electricity unless you know what you're doing), otherwise disassemble and thoroughly clean.

It'll be a good idea to check if any water has entered the boiler in the first place. Depending on accessibility, it might be enough to loosen any water connector between solenoid and boiler (dunno about that construction in detail, though). Alternatively, boiler is opened up pretty quick - prepare for a little flooding (around 85ml). You might want to repeat the above after putting it back together and firing up so you can check the status quo.

Enjoy getting to the bottom of this!
Luckily these things are built fairly straight forward


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Hasi said:


> Solenoids can get stuck due to scale build-up or similar. If you hot-wire it you should be able to hear it engage (DISCLAIMER: obviously, don't mess with with electricity unless you know what you're doing), otherwise disassemble and thoroughly clean.
> 
> It'll be a good idea to check if any water has entered the boiler. Depending on accessibility, it might be enough to loosen any water connector between solenoid and boiler (dunno about that construction in detail, though). Alternatively, boiler is opened up pretty quick - prepare for a little flooding (around 85ml).
> 
> ...


 Might get time to start stripping it down this weekend. It's in amazingly good shape for one of these, no corrosion on the painted metal body at all. I was also sent two full portafilter and basket sets so I've now got 1 bottomless portafilter and three normal ones for two machines! Just have a lot on around this but I really want to get it figured out. Weighs a ton, it's all made of metal at least. I'm going to guess the original owner had the machine replaced at some point in warranty and they gave him a whole new boxed machine and only took the faulty unit away, he's given me two cup rails, two full drip trays one brand new. Some of them say made in China on the serial number sticker, this one says made in Italy so it should be ok if I can get it all working.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Don't suppose anyone who has stripped one has any tips to getting the shell off? The lid and gauges were straight forward but I can't get the red casing off to gain access to the rest of the machine easily. Before I just end up pulling it up and breaking it, it seems stuck around the two pods at the front but it also looks like it just sits in the silver tray you can see in the picture above. I don't want to pry under because it damages the paint but if that's the way forward I'll press on.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Tempest said:


> Don't suppose anyone who has stripped one has any tips to getting the shell off? The lid and gauges were straight forward but I can't get the red casing off to gain access to the rest of the machine easily. Before I just end up pulling it up and breaking it, it seems stuck around the two pods at the front but it also looks like it just sits in the silver tray you can see in the picture above. I don't want to pry under because it damages the paint but if that's the way forward I'll press on.


You can get a plastic spudger for levering off cases without damaging them. They're commonly available in mobile phone repair kits but are available separately too from eBay/Amazon etc.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

ashcroc said:


> Tempest said:
> 
> 
> > Don't suppose anyone who has stripped one has any tips to getting the shell off? The lid and gauges were straight forward but I can't get the red casing off to gain access to the rest of the machine easily. Before I just end up pulling it up and breaking it, it seems stuck around the two pods at the front but it also looks like it just sits in the silver tray you can see in the picture above. I don't want to pry under because it damages the paint but if that's the way forward I'll press on.
> ...


 That's a good idea. I'm just not 100% sure it's only stuck and I'm not over looking something holding it together as well. I can't see anything but I was hoping someone who had one in bits previously could confirm it's just tight in the silver bezzles at the bottom of the pods.

Say one thing, it's like new inside. If it has scale it must have spent time in a really hard water area as if there wasn't a bit of grounds on the group head I'd swear it wasn't even used.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

@coffeechap might be able to fill in...


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

@coffeechap hey pardon the tag ? you might know a bit about how the decorative casing comes loose from the two pods at the front? Appreciate any info if you have it ?. I have the service manuals but it skips over this step.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)




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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

Tempest said:


> @coffeechap hey pardon the tag ? you might know a bit about how the decorative casing comes loose from the two pods at the front? Appreciate any info if you have it ?. I have the service manuals but it skips over this step.


 The machine is heltogether by the three bolts I. The case and the hex bolts underneath that hold the metal trim in place. Once released it should just come apart


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Thanks! Will have another look if I missed something under. There were three really long carriage bolts from above but the stuff from below didn't look related. Better to check than break something ?. Thanks.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

So I got it apart and removed the valve. Was a bit gunky but nothing to make me think a blockage but descaled it all anyway. With the case off it's clear the steam boiler is leaking a bit around the back where you can't see while the case is on, so I have a gasket set on the way to rebuild that anyway, but unfortunately cleaning the valve made no difference. It does run through the bottom half of the boiler in much longer channels than the standard Gaggia boiler so feasibly there could be a blockage inside the bottom of the boiler, but I won't know that until the parts are here and I strip it out of the machine.

The button for hot water drives the pump but no water comes out. The steam boiler may fill eventually if the machine was left to get up to temp but I've been too worried about heating it dry to leave it on more than a few minutes. If I run water out of the coffee boiler first, when I push the hot water button the pump sounds normal for a few seconds and then starts to strain, which to me says blockage somewhere. I took the water tubes that pass the water from the pump to the steam boiler off and none of those were blocked either. Which to me says either the button is working on one pole and not the other, causing something not to actuate, or the solenoid isn't electrically sound, and isn't allowing the water to pass into the boiler.

Anyone have a thought on which is more likely while I'm waiting for the rebuild kit/ordering bits for it? I'll go back to wiring diagram I have for the machine but I can't actually find a diagram that shows how water actually moves through it, just an exploded parts diagram.


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## Norvin (Sep 10, 2014)

Have you tried hot wiring the solenoid coil as Hasi suggested in a previous post? You should hear a click as the solenoid activates when the power is switched on. If you are not happy doing this try swapping over the coil with the one on the brew solenoid and see if that shifts the problem.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Norvin said:


> Have you tried hot wiring the solenoid coil as Hasi suggested in a previous post? You should hear a click as the solenoid activates when the power is switched on. If you are not happy doing this try swapping over the coil with the one on the brew solenoid and see if that shifts the problem.


 I don't think I'd want to hot wire it and I did wonder if I should swap the solenoids side to side so happy to try this. Sort of ran out of time and knew I'd need to rebuild the steam boiler before the leak gets worse either way. Will wait til seals are here to limit the number of times I'm taking it all to pieces. You can get the electronic part of the solenoid separately easily enough so that's an easy fix if that's what it is. Thanks for the assistance ?.


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

Tempest said:


> I don't think I'd want to hot wire it and I did wonder if I should swap the solenoids side to side so happy to try this. Sort of ran out of time and knew I'd need to rebuild the steam boiler before the leak gets worse either way. Will wait til seals are here to limit the number of times I'm taking it all to pieces. You can get the electronic part of the solenoid separately easily enough so that's an easy fix if that's what it is. Thanks for the assistance .


sure you could do that!
While it wouldn't help diagnosing any other electrical problems (wiring, terminals switches) on troublesome boiler, you could rule out a faulty solenoid  For everything else, go about each and every piece of cable/connector/switch with a multimeter, measuring for conductivity.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Quick and weird question... Seals are arriving today so I'm getting my thoughts together to strip the full machine this weekend and rebuild it all with primarily upgraded o-rings and seals.

In @Norvin's picture above, the steam solenoid writing is right side up and the unused terminal is toward the top. When I stripped mine the steam solenoid was upside down, IE writing upside down and the unused terminal toward the bottom. I sort of put it back as I found it without thinking too much about it and then as I've been studying the parts diagrams and pics on the net, it's occurred to me it was upside down and I put it back upside down as that's how I found it. My initial thought based on the wiring diagram I've found is that it wouldn't matter as it would still complete a circuit and generate a field but can anyone tell me if I'm incorrect in that? I'll put it back right side up after I swap them to test if the issue moves to the brew boiler but I've been looking for the answer just for my own curiosity if the electrical portion of the solenoid has polarities that matter or not and I cannot find the answer anywhere and figured someone here might understand how the electricity flows in this circuit better than I!


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## Hasi (Dec 27, 2017)

polarity of a solenoid does not matter 
electrical current means actuation, simples!


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Hasi said:


> polarity of a solenoid does not matter
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Thanks for confirming. I thought as much but my days working with electrical circuits in my day job have been over for years ?.


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## Darkshin (Aug 8, 2019)

If you have to replace the seal you should descale the entire boiler, top and bottom. Take apart the solenoid and descale all the parts. I just used a warm citric acid solution since you'll be able to fully rinse before putting back together.

By the way have you tried to get water with the knob all the way to the left right after you turn it on and the boilers are still cold? I replaced my thermostat with the higher temp (155C) and it's hard to get water in the boiler and at the steam arm while it's hot; seems to insta-boil for good 15 seconds or so.


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## Nerdlinger (Jan 10, 2020)

Just got one of these with the same apparent fault, checked Tempest's location and fairly confident mine is a different one from Cambridge. Hoping for a successful repair here...


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Unfortunately my last weekend was 10kg in a 5kg bag and this lost out. This weekend isn't looking any better unfortunately. I really want to swap the solenoid around and see if the problem moves at least and might try to cram that into Sunday one way or another.



Darkshin said:


> If you have to replace the seal you should descale the entire boiler, top and bottom. Take apart the solenoid and descale all the parts. I just used a warm citric acid solution since you'll be able to fully rinse before putting back together.
> 
> By the way have you tried to get water with the knob all the way to the left right after you turn it on and the boilers are still cold? I replaced my thermostat with the higher temp (155C) and it's hard to get water in the boiler and at the steam arm while it's hot; seems to insta-boil for good 15 seconds or so.


 I've been doing all the tests coldish as I'd rather not let the boiler get red hot empty. Knob all the way open, push button, pump kicks in, but in seconds starts to labour and nothing or the odd bubble of water produced while most of the water runs back into the tank. I have a GC I've fully rebuilt, pided etc so I'm sure once I get the time to set the machine out and tear it down I'll be fine. The solenoid has been off the machine and full descaled - it was pretty darn clean anyway though. This machine is like new inside bar a tiny bit of evidence on the back side of the steam boiler it's got a tiny tiny leak. I also took off all the water pipes from the pump to the steam boiler and cleaned those to no effect. The only thing I couldn't fully clean with the boiler in situ was the channels in the boiler assembly the solenoid mounts to. They seem pretty long so feasibly one of them could be jammed with scale.



Nerdlinger said:


> Just got one of these with the same apparent fault, checked Tempest's location and fairly confident mine is a different one from Cambridge. Hoping for a successful repair here...


 I will certainly come back and report on what I find with the solenoid test and the descale/reseal. I bought a full set of uprated seals for it already and they're sat mocking me on the entrance table.

I almost packed this in and bought a used Sage DB on Ebay but it went to £550 in a blink with no accessories or portafilter and with dents all over it so that was a 'you people are crazy, no way that's worth anything near that' bust lol.


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## Darkshin (Aug 8, 2019)

I had a leak on my steamer boiler too. I went back with the silicone o-ring replacement under the assumption of a longer life. The bolt might seize up as the aluminum oxidizes. I lost threads on the bottom half of the boiler. If that happens just buy a longer bolt. The OEM bolt doesn't occupy but half the threads on the bottom half of the boiler.


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## Nerdlinger (Jan 10, 2020)

Tempest, I think this might be a non-issue. I got mine yesterday and the hot water works fine. Maybe you need to give it a bit more time before switching it off, if you can't resist switching it off try letting it cool down and doing it again, you might find though that water comes out first go now that you have filled it a little bit last time. It stands to reason that if steam works fine as the seller claimed then water is getting in to the boiler. The hot water flow on mine is laughable though, just a tiny jet, which also stands to reason as it is coming from an espresso boiler which you wouldn't expect to have any decent capacity. Actually I'm struggling to see any point to the hot water other than warming up an espresso cup which is what the instructions advise doing. Also I measured the temp. of the water in the jug as just 70 C.

Mine needed a good clean under the shower screen, two of the four distributor's water channels were completely blocked. Neither of the temp. gauges work but under the bonnet it is mint. I had a very good cup of espresso this morning and I'm very pleased with the great value in this machine, I was chasing Classics on ebay but they all went too high for me.


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## Nerdlinger (Jan 10, 2020)

Today my espresso was delayed by an hour, I usually switch my machine on about 10 minutes in advance. The water pump went quieter sounding like it was pumping against a blind filter basket and I got no hot water from either boiler. After switching off and cooling down for a while normal operation was restored and the water pump worked as expected... Possible intermittent solenoid fault similar to the issue here maybe.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

Well, this has been a long time coming! Been quite content with the Gaggia Classic as we're in lock down at home anyway, so with working from home being our new norm, I haven't worried about this and it's been languishing in what is now my office ironically enough on my spare desk. Don't know what possessed me to look at this today but I finally swapped the solenoids, no change. Was going to stop there but pushed on, dead curious what the inside of the steam boiler looked like.

A mess. That's the answer. One of the water channels from one of the valves is completely scaled closed. So I assume the water from the pump was hitting the blockage and sailing back into the water tank through a pressure release on the bottom of that valve.

The rebuild kit has been sat here since I started this thread as you could see the steam boiler had leaked a little on the side of the boiler itself so I went ahead and ordered the kit, always planning to get that leak attended to. So it's sat in some descaler now, hopefully once I've polished up the inside a little that'll fix the no water in the steam boiler issue. My only concern is while I didn't leave the machine on very long at all, the coffee boiler had some heat to it when I turned it off and the steam boiler was stone cold, but I think these have a system where only one can heat at a time, so I'll live in hope that is just because I didn't leave it on long enough for the coffee boiler to finish it's 'first turn' with the electric. The thermal cut out on the top of the steam boiler looks like it's still in good nick so should fine.

I will update again, hopefully not in 5 months time, now that's it's in 50 pieces in my office haha.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

It lives. Works fine now. Nothing leaks, everything now works. Rumour has it that a Silvia V3 steam wand is a direct replacement on this machine that allows for it to keep it's articulation so that might be something to look into. It's not as nice to take apart as the Gaggia when it comes to getting the casings off so I won't be doing it in a hurry though. The GC with PID is just a better machine so I don't see switching over to the Kitchenaid but it was always meant to go to the office and when this is all over it will go to the office and made mediocre but still better than chain coffee shops coffees. If it was easy to PID I might feel differently but at least it's fixed, hurray.


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## eugenuk (Jun 8, 2020)

Hi, I just followed your steps and I was going to advice you what the problem is. I had the same problem some years ago. I am glad you fixed it. I have few Kitcheaid espresso machines. I recently bought a V3 steam valve and some fittings from eBay for one of the machines but my nephew loved it so I just gave it to him and he finished the job on his espresso. Here is a photo.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

eugenuk said:


> *Hi, I just followed your steps and I was going to advice you what the problem is. I had the same problem some years ago. I am glad you fixed it. I have few Kitcheaid espresso machines. I recently bought a V3 steam valve and some fittings from eBay for one of the machines but my nephew loved it so I just gave it to him and he finished the job on his espresso. Here is a photo.*
> 
> *
> View attachment 40898
> *


 That's a pretty nice looking latte there! Gives me hope it might be an alright basic machine 🙂.

Mines the never style where the opv can't be accessed from the bottom because it has a tube to guide the water so it doesn't ruin the casing, so stripping it again to do the opv adjustment and fit this steam arm are likely my next steps.


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

My latte art isn't good on any machine so we can't blame the Kitchenaid for this. it was also done with the stock wand sans plastic bits so it is what it is.

Works a treat now that the OPV is set for 9 bar, it's been cleaned within an inch of life and the steam side is cleaned up and water tight. Great little machine for about £60 and a bit of my own free labour!


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

@eugenuk I don't suppose you remember which fitting you bought to make this work? I bought what the measurements suggested from screwfix just now but it's way too big. If you don't remember, not to worry!


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## whosefucoffee (Jun 23, 2020)

I'd also like to know which bits I'd need to upgrade the wand on my KitchenAid

It went bang last week when the hot water button melted and shorted out. When I took it apart the casing was full of water due to the usual steam boiler leaks.

I've ordered a set of seals and sourced a replacement switch from CPC for £3, a tenth of the price for a 'genuine' one.

https://cpc.farnell.com/arcolectric/h8351abaaa/switch-push-dpst-momentary-black/dp/SW05035?CMP=TREML007-003

It took a bit of filing but fits a treat. I'll either glue the button to it or glue on the spike from the old switch.

Hope this helps someone in the future


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

whosefucoffee said:


> I'd also like to know which bits I'd need to upgrade the wand on my KitchenAid


 I got a Silvia V3 to keep the swivel and it turns out you need a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer to make the Silvia wand fit the steam valve output. Got the wand on the bay from Ferrari Espresso and the reducer on Amazon.

At first test mine leaked from the reducer and I haven't taken it apart again yet to tighten it up. I didn't have a wrench big enough for the Silvia wand so I need to get onto it with an adjustable or buy a bigger one than I currently have to tighten it up better. I also had to file the hole in the case the wand goes through to account for the bigger fastener on Silvia wand but given the tidy job you did of your bracket modification I'm sure that'll be no trouble for you! Even leaking it frothed better than the panarello wand without the plastic sleeve though. I'll get it finished one way or the other at the weekend, better job tightening or ptfe tape should do it.


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## whosefucoffee (Jun 23, 2020)

Tempest said:


> got a Silvia V3 to keep the swivel and it turns out you need a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer to make the Silvia wand fit the steam valve output. Got the wand on the bay from Ferrari Espresso and the reducer on Amazon.


 Great, thanks for that, I've got one on the way 🙂

Now that the warranty has expired and KA weren't prepared to repair it again FOC I've got the modding bug !!

PIDs and pressure adjustment next.....


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## Tempest (Sep 19, 2019)

All back together after what I hope is the last removal of the case for a while. No leaks after tightening, much nicer to steam with this wand than the standard one though I'm going to need some practice to get used to it beyond the V2 version I get decent results with on the GC. Cracking little entry level machine for the money.


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## IanMelon (Mar 2, 2021)

Can you please post a pic of the steam wand mod on the inside of the housing. I am trying to do it myself.


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