# RR55OD grind adjustment dial



## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

Hi

Calling all rr55od owners.

I have manage to break the push button bit on the adjustment dial. I knew it would go as its a little flimsy. Is this common? Can you get spares? Is there a better/ more sturdy mod that anyone's done?

Cheers


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

No spares available when I needed one - contact @whiteyj about making one I reckon! The rr45 / rr55 DOSER one is different and ignore any company that tells you otherwise!


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Spare parts may be difficult to source as Brasilia went under a while ago if I recall correctly.

Marcuswar or coffeechap are your best ports of call. Marcus seems to be constantly improving his rr55.

I do have one but not modded it as much as I would have liked. I recently got new burrs from espresso underground...


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I does seem to be a weak link in their design as mine also broke a while ago. It sheared off as the button part of it was pressed. I managed to superglue a piece of plastic card (1-2mm thick) underneath which I then glued the edge of to the locking rack portion of it. This worked for a while but eventually broke again. If you did this mod BEFORE it broke them I'm sure it would help strengthen things to prevent it breaking. Eventually I managed to pickup a spare one from eBay but even when broke it was still useable by using my thumbnail to push the remainder of the button down.

I think the RR45/R55 buttons are different because of the fact that the RR55 has more settings (80) compared to the standard 45 notches on the RR45, hence the pitch of the notches is different under the collar. You can easily replace the RR45 collar with an 80 settings one, but would also hence need to replace the button as well.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

If you do find a source would you let us know as I would like to have a spare, just in case.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

I would contact whiteyj about a 3d printed one!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

I've been toying with the idea of removing the button completely and replacing it with a stepless worm gear from the macap grinder as per this article ;

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/macap-grinder-true-stepless-mod-t26231.html

The problem comes in sourcing the parts. Chris Coffee stocks them but the postal costs from the States pushes up the cost considerably;

https://www.chriscoffee.com/MACAP-Stepless-Collars-p/macapcollarg.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/MACAP-Stepless-Worm-Gear-Assembly-p/7m11700.htm


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

If it is the same one as the MACAP you can have mine when I get my finger out. I bought the stepless mod parts but have not had the time to fit them as yet


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

mremanxx said:


> If it is the same one as the MACAP you can have mine when I get my finger out. I bought the stepless mod parts but have not had the time to fit them as yet


Ohhh, where did you get the parts from mremanxx?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

I should be able to get hold of these from a source of mine, will find out over the weekend


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Which parts Dave, the original button that Bean Junkie needs or the Macap worm gear and adjustment collar to do a stepless conversion ?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

sorry the brassilia parts


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Good news for Bean Junkie , bad news for me









Actually I may be interested in a spare button as well for my spare RR55 (not OD).

Cheers Dave


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

Well, this is all sounding potentially very good. Dave, this is one of yours  I'll drop you a line.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

@coffeechap were you able to source any of those adjustment buttons? If so I would like to put my name down for 2 as I have managed to find an 80 step ring from an RR55OD but can't find the button and it isn't compatible with the button I have for the 40 step ring.

Thanks


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## mremanxx (Dec 30, 2014)

Sorry for the tardy response guys. I got my kit from espressotechno. He Is on here, very helpful guy.

Unfortunately my grinder needs slightly more modification than a Macap grinder so my locking pin won't be ready soon as I'm moving house soon but I will post it when done.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

I have a source in Australia which still has a great many of the parts for Brasilia/Rossi grinders. As you can imagine the shipping is quite expensive. If we assembled a larger order we could divide the shipping cost amongst us and make it more reasonable. The button to secure the 80 step grind adjustment ring is £6 at current exchange rate. If everyone here who is looking for any parts and would like to go in with me on dividing the shipping just let me know.

Unless Dave is able to find some from his more local source. @coffeechap ?


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## coffeechap (Apr 5, 2012)

ridland said:


> I have a source in Australia which still has a great many of the parts for Brasilia/Rossi grinders. As you can imagine the shipping is quite expensive. If we assembled a larger order we could divide the shipping cost amongst us and make it more reasonable. The button to secure the 80 step grind adjustment ring is £6 at current exchange rate. If everyone here who is looking for any parts and would like to go in with me on dividing the shipping just let me know.
> 
> Unless Dave is able to find some from his more local source. @coffeechap ?


might be a better option, my contact is here but has to order the parts in and is currently checking if the parts are still available.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

If anyone is still looking for the adjustment button for the RR55OD 80 step grind adjustment ring, they are in stock at Bullonerosso.de in Germany. They have 6 units in stock and the are just shy of 12 euros a piece. Shipping unfortunately is almost 17 euros, which is why I was trying to organise a group buy. Their website can be partially displayed in English and for email queries their English is serviceable. Its better than either my Italian or German so I can't complain. Very friendly and helpful if not a bit slow to respond and ship.

Burrs are widely available but Bullonerosso does have the original as opposed to the aftermarket if that makes a difference. I may swap over at next bean change and see if it makes a difference on speed. I am currently getting about 1 gram per second which seems slow to me, but maybe my expectations are unreasonable.

As the group buy is a dead duck (no interest was expressed) I'll leave it to yourselves. I think @espressotechno can also source the parts but I don't know if that it is from stock, special order or prices. Would be nice if we could swing business to a forum member. Unfortunately at the time I was unaware that he could source Brasilia/Rossi parts.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> I've been toying with the idea of removing the button completely and replacing it with a stepless worm gear from the macap grinder as per this article ;
> 
> http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/macap-grinder-true-stepless-mod-t26231.html
> 
> ...


After all that effort, a worm drive would be the last thing I would want to end up with.... I do not remember my MC2 days fondly!


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Intrigued as to why you say that Dylan. Wormdrives seem to be the ideal and preferred option for infinite stepless adjustment. I especially like the idea of a worm drive that can be swung out of the way to allow large changes quickly and then swung back in to fine tune.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> Intrigued as to why you say that Dylan. Wormdrives seem to be the ideal and preferred option for infinite stepless adjustment. I especially like the idea of a worm drive that can be swung out of the way to allow large changes quickly and then swung back in to fine tune.


I think you answered your own question. And on my MC2 I had the top permanently off and one of the bolts of the worm-drive removed so I could swing it out of the way.

In short: It takes forever and ever and ever and ever to change the grind.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Ahh makes sense and you are right of course, I wouldn't really want it totally driven by the worm drive mechanism. In a truly ideal world is like the worm drive to only work in between the steps. So could still click it around to set step points and then turn the worm screw to adjust between this step and the next.


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

In response to Ridland. A gram a second seems a little tardy. Perhaps your burrs are fecked. I get about 15g in 4secs.

On the button, may order but that's a fair bit of dosh on postage. The teaspoon is fairing ok at the moment


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

@ridland , my RR55OD is currently set at 5.8 secs to do 18.5g so that's approx 3g a second. I seem to remember that there are different buur sets for the Doser and on-demand versions with the OD versions being more aggressive ?


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

Well I shall swap over the burrs at the next bean change. As I am using a microhopper (but with almost a kilo of weight between the copper rod and RB handle glued to it) I should be swapping by noon. Assuming paying work doesn't interfere


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

BTW I highly recommend the acrylic tube microhoppers that @coffeechap can set you up with. Just enough beans for about 3 shots. Add on a 50mm length of 40mm diameter rod with a RB tamper handle glued to the rod and it simulates a full on hopper with about 750g in the hopper. Consistency is brilliant.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

If you use a tube then I assume you don't have a lense hood as well so how to you puff out the retained grinds ? I find that a slap on the lense hood dumps about another 1-1.5g out of the grinder.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> If you use a tube then I assume you don't have a lense hood as well so how to you puff out the retained grinds ? I find that a slap on the lense hood dumps about another 1-1.5g out of the grinder.


I have the borosilicate glass tube on a SJ, and I still use the lens hood stretched over the top, acts in exactly the same way.


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## Bean junkie (Mar 2, 2013)

I've just been pouring beans in to the throat which I imagine is where my consistency issues lie. Will have to invest in one of these tubes.

On the retained grinds I just use cocktail stick to remove grinds but perhaps this lens hood mod may be better.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Essentially I also just dump the beans in the throat of the grinder with the lens hood acting more as a funnel than a hopper. I then stick a cheap 48mm tamper in the throat on top of the beans to add weight. The throat seems to hold 2 or 3 grinds worth but I always add beans to top it up to just below the top of the throat every time.

Dylan, I had thought of possibly doing this but thought it sounded a bit dangerous slapping down on the top of a glass tube.


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

marcuswar said:


> Dylan, I had thought of possibly doing this but thought it sounded a bit dangerous slapping down on the top of a glass tube.


borosilicate is naturally tough, and the glass from the group buy is thick. I have also covered the top with a layer of material based tape and attached the lens hood with this too. It is perfectly possible to depress the hood and get a good puff of air without ever contacting the glass however!


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

I flick the flap in the nozzle as well a use a very flexible grinder brush with long soft bristles to get into the throat and get the last 1 or 2 grams. Seems to work fine for me. If you go for a tube hopper make sure you get a weight to simulate a full hopper otherwise I find the consistency is absolutely crap.

Will be changing burrs this afternoon so looking for to faster grind times.


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## badger28 (Jan 5, 2013)

Am interested in getting a glass tube, and a weight for better consistency.

I currently use a bent tea spoon to get the retention out of the chute. I think retention is very little with this method.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

Thanks all, especially @marcuswar and @Bean junkie for the advice about grinding speed. I replaced the burrs today and I am now getting 19 grams in just under 6 seconds. Much much better. I've run about a kilo of stale beans through it and now having espresso from it. I think I'm now getting more clarity of flavours but at the very least, its quieter and faster.

So I've learned even when a vendor seems to know what they are doing, never take them at their word. There is no way in the world he had just changed the burrs, unless he was grinding gravel instead of coffee. Good lesson though. I now know what knackered burrs feel and look like.

Back to having a bit of a static issue. I'm wondering if somehow I was able to better earth the funnel, if this would discharge the static charge and the grinds would just slip out.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

ridland said:


> Thanks all, especially @marcuswar and @Bean junkie .....Back to having a bit of a static issue. I'm wondering if somehow I was able to better earth the funnel, if this would discharge the static charge and the grinds would just slip out.


You're welcome ridland , glad I could be of some help... makes me feel wanted









Regarding the "earthing" of the funnel... don't bother. I've been down that route and it doesn't work. If you're now finding the grind sticking you need to adjust the flap closer to funnel i.e. apply more back pressure to the grinds flying out of the grind chamber. If you think about it this makes sense as the new burrs are grinding more coffee and flinging it out faster so the grinds need to be slowed down more.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

marcuswar said:


> You're welcome ridland , glad I could be of some help... makes me feel wanted
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good advice re the flap. I tried without the flap at all; the results were "interesting." I have been thinking about making a flap with small cuts to make tines of a sort, thinking it might be an efficient way to slow down the grinds without pushing them back into the exit chute. Its at least a chance to fiddle, I like futzing about with stuff.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Sounds like a similar idea to using a curtain of paperclips that I tried. http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?14475-RR55-OD-grinding-no-static-and-nice-fluffy-grinds&p=271242#post271242

It was moderately successful and it had the nice advantage that I could slide the paperclips to one side and have full access to the exit chute for cleaning. I found it worked moderately well for some beans but others just generated too much static for it to handle, so in the end I've gone back to a metal flap and a puff of air.

I think the ideal solution would be a flap that could be adjusted by turning a threaded bolt/knob to set the distance. The flap would need to provide some positive tension (spring?) against the adjusting mechanism and the whole things would be hinged or fitted in such a way that it could be easily removed without affecting the adjustment when it was refitted.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

That is a brilliant idea of a screw to adjust the flap. I'll be in hardware stores on the weekend looking for a nice small screw to try out that idea. Will need an awl to punch through the metal and start the screw through I think. Any suggestions on making the hole?

I have a 80 step adjustment ring on the way and the control pad from the RR55OD. So in a few weeks I should have a RR55OD in the body of a RR45OD.

Not bad for a purchase price of £85 and another £70 in parts. Well actually closer to £110 but I will have three backup adjustment buttons (these seem to be a weak link in the design) a backup set of genuine Rossi burrs and a backup control panel. Barring the motor dying, I should be good for years.

Or until upgraditis strikes.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Depends on the thickness of the metal, if it's thin "coke can" material I've just used a small Philips screwdriver. Other than that I'd probably use a small drill.

I was actually thinking of the threaded shaft being held in a nut that was attached to some kind of frame (that then attached to the funnel flap mounting screws) and the end of the shaft would then simply press against the flap (with a spring behind) so no need to put a hole in it.


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

I'm so excited I should be getting my 80 step adjustment ring this week, depending upon DHL. I will also have 3 of the grind adjustment buttons; which seem to be the weak point, so confident that I'm going to be fine with it for a while. My only regret so far is that while I found and bought the OD adjustment panel/button I don't think it is coming with the plastic membrane/cover so not sure how I'm going to sort that.

Anyone know of a RR55OD going for spares/repairs or someone to approach about that? I'm going to try the former UK distributor of Brasilia but any other ideas would be very appreciated.


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## marcuswar (Aug 19, 2013)

Are you sure you can't just cut a hole in the existing panel membrane for the display? I'd be surprised if the buttons weren't the same size and spacing.

A quick rough and ready measurement on mine shows the buttons are about 19mm diameter and separated by 15mm (where display is) and from the top of the top button to the bottom of the bottom button is about 53mm


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

will see this week


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## c10cko (Jul 16, 2015)

ridland said:


> BTW I highly recommend the acrylic tube microhoppers that @coffeechap can set you up with. Just enough beans for about 3 shots. Add on a 50mm length of 40mm diameter rod with a RB tamper handle glued to the rod and it simulates a full on hopper with about 750g in the hopper. Consistency is brilliant.


May I ask where you purchased the rod from? I want to make sure I get the weight correct. Nice setup.


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## c10cko (Jul 16, 2015)

Sorted! Thanks to @ridland


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## Dallah (Jan 31, 2015)

Glad I could help. Totally envious of the OD controls on your grinder. Trying to modify mine to have same controls but can't get a couple of key parts.


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