# Is this classic boiler salvageable?



## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi lovely people of the forum and happy Easter,

This morning I picked up a 2004 Classic for spare or repair, it was very cheap and I thought I could fix myself with a nice project.

Open the boiler and it looks a bit nasty, it is pitted on a side..Do you think this is salvageable? descaler and toothbrush? Bin?

Thank you all


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

I think that is okay

I use mechanical means rather than citric - I have a Dremel with wire brush attachments which work a treat

I also use it to initially clean the face then use wet and dry on a flat surface

The good sign is the boiler and group came apart

Neil


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## DavecUK (Aug 6, 2013)

As long as nothing has pinholed through to the outside @Uncletits is quite correct. Certainly no more chemicals are best as it will eat into those pits.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Thanks guys, I ll try some mechanical then.

I just finishing cleaning the lower boiler/group head, the shower holder was badly stock and there s a nice residue of rubber from the gasket, I guess this was left powered on without water..

While I was trying to get off the shower holder I made too much force on the copper pipe and now it is wobbling a bit, I d say 1 mm.

This is press fit, not screwed in right? Any issues if I leave it like this?

Still need to disassemble the solenoid valve and clean a few bits, but I think I ll call it a day for today


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Do you mean the pipe from the steam valve? perhaps show us?

For me doing a strip down next is a completely stripped down OPV, steam valve and brass body of solenoid in the citric

New stainless bolts with anti seize paste then new seals

Megger test and water test then add ons providing the boiler looks okay of course

Good Luck

Neil


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Hey Neil,

It is this pipe here, I was soaking it in Cafiza...

the grouphead doesn t look great but not terrible either in my opinion, perhaps i will give it another go with cafiza tomorrow.

I ll soak the OPV and brass solenoid in citric for sure, but maybe not the steam valve...

I wouldn t know how to do a Megger test, but the wires seem ok to me, they are all very clean.

Ah, need to fix the switch too, this morning I broke the plastic frame while I was pulling it out, hopefully a bit of super glue will hold it together again


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

I'd be more afraid of the 1,000 springs in the switch! than the pipe

Some of the other guys may be better placed to advise on the pipe like @ratty or @FairRecycler

The steam valve only has an o ring as it's not like a tap


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Uncletits said:


> I'd be more afraid of the 1,000 springs in the switch! than the pipe
> 
> Some of the other guys may be better placed to advise on the pipe like @ratty or @FairRecycler
> 
> The steam valve only has an o ring as it's not like a tap


 ahaha true! but I watched a video and I think I should be able to put it back together, it seems that the trick is to tape it in the middle 

I ll let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help!


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

I would be surprised if super glue will work to fix the broken plastic as the unit is under a lot of tension when it's back together.

At the least i would use epoxy resin and rough up both surfaces before applying. Then clamp in position using either elastic bands (I use hair bands as they're stronger) or better still a light weight clamp.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Thanks @ratty,

What about the copper pipe? Mine is wobbling a bit now, I had some problems with the shower holder and I d say I knocked it a bit.

Is it press fit? Shall I hammer it in a bit or I live it as it is?

Thank you


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

Dorian said:


> What about the copper pipe? Mine is wobbling a bit now, I had some problems with the shower holder and I d say I knocked it a bit.
> 
> Is it press fit? Shall I hammer it in a bit or I live it as it is?


 It is a press fit.

You could try twisting it in a bit with pliers or mole grips


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Thank you @Uncletitsfor mentioning me here.

@Dorian I failed many times even with epoxy, however a friend of mine glued many of the switches with the glue attached below (I haven't tried it yet). The key point should be to roughen up the surfaces as @ratty recommended and leave the glue to dry for at least 24hrs. I normally leave the switch in a bag for a few days for testing, and for me these likely to explode in that period of time 😐









The copper tube is a press fit, if it wobbles I like to flip it. A tight fit is necessary, if there is a leak at the bottom, then cold water could enter the group head.


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

FairRecycler said:


> I normally leave the switch in a bag for a few days for testing, and for me these likely to explode in that period of time 😐


 I concur!

I once thought I had fixed one and left it on the window sill as I didn't need it at that moment.

Around 3 weeks later I came down in the morning and it had exploded!


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Thanks to both @FairRecycler and @ratty for your input.

Yesterday I was even thinking about a mod, in fairness we only need a support for the post, what if we make a metal one?

I could find another metal flat piece and adapt it to fit the switch, replacing the pre existent one, something like the one in the picture.

I could drill a hole of the size of the post and fit the metal piece snug on the side...I would probably lose the snug fit to the case on that side but the set up would be more reliable in the long run I guess...

I ll try to work on this, over the week end as I ll be busy with work now, but I ll report back


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## BBBean (Jul 31, 2020)

Concur with @FairRecycler and @ratty on copper pipe, should be press fit. Usually been crimped in with a flat on one side. If loose on replacement reverse the pipe and tap in with rubber mallet.


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## BBBean (Jul 31, 2020)

Switch repair I fear is more of a problem as the piece of plastic broken off retains the metal bar about which the rocker switches rotate and is under a lot of tension. Again concur needs good abrasion and epoxy but still not sure that simple butt joint will hold it. Ideally need to reinforce side of joint with an additional piece of material. I know @rattywas looking at doing similar but not sure if he succeeded?


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## ratty (Sep 22, 2019)

BBBean said:


> I know @rattywas looking at doing similar but not sure if he succeeded?


 The latest attempt saw me dremeling off the top'frame' of another broken switch bank. After a bit of filing etc I turned the new cut frame on top of the one I was repairing so that the missing part was glued onto the opposite side. I cut out a piece of the same plastic and glued that in position so the top looked complete. I also glued another piece underneath the place where the gap was to get the same height for the metal bar either side.

It's all a bit messy and the new frame will stick out 2.5mm from the front of the machine when (if!) eventually fitted. There's a bit of cleaning up to do yet and then the reassembly.

Doing other work at the moment but will get around to it some time.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Hi everyone,

Just to report back on the switch and ask for for more help 

So I believe I fixed the switch, I sawed a longer piece of plastic from an old digital thermometer frame and adapted to the side slot of the switch, having removed the metal slide. I glued everything with the Gorilla glue, as suggested by @FairRecycler (thanks for that), This stuff works wonders, it expands to a a very strong foam.

At first I wanted the post to sit in the new hole I created but it was slightly under the original position and that didn t work as I wanted, but the post sat on something else, perhaps the original slot, not sure.

What I know is that it works and seems very solid to me, I expect to last at least for a few months hopefully!

So I tested the machine, at first no water from wand or GH, so I checked the pump, and there was no water coming out.

Disassembled and cleaned the pump, now I have water but only from the wand, no GH.

I descaled and cleaned the solenoid and OPV beforehand, but I checked again the solenoid, all seems good to me, it was also a bit wet, but no water from the GH.

Actually when I was cleaning the GH, I noticed that no matter what I did I never had water coming out the small hole where the shower holder sits... please see the picture attached. Could it be that that is clogged with residues or scale? Any other idea?

Thanks!


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Actually I d like to point out that I didn t soak the GH in citric because I was afraid that the chrome could get ruined... perhaps I should try instead..🤔


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## phario (May 7, 2017)

You guys are wonderfully resourceful. Great stuff. That switchbank is my least favourite part of the Classic. For a machine that's so repairable, the switchbank is the least repairable component.


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Dorian said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just to report back on the switch and ask for for more help
> 
> ...


 Well done on the switch, I hope it'll last long.

Yes, you should get a nice flow through that hole from the GH inlet line (right hand side from the back).


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

FairRecycler said:


> Well done on the switch, I hope it'll last long.
> 
> Yes, you should get a nice flow through that hole from the GH inlet line (right hand side from the back).


 Thanks @FairRecycler you mean that if I push water through the hole I should have flow from the small hole behind the shower holder? The right hole of the solenoid? I think that was clogged.....need to take it all apart again 🤦

any risk of damaging the GH chrome by soaking in descaler?


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Dorian said:


> Thanks @FairRecycler you mean that if I push water through the hole I should have flow from the small hole behind the shower holder? The right hole of the solenoid? I think that was clogged.....need to take it all apart again 🤦
> 
> any risk of damaging the GH chrome by soaking in descaler?


 Yes, the nearside hole of the solenoid.

Citric acid won't help a lot, I would rather poke it with something (the hole is 4mm) or soak in cafizza or puly caff. It should be coffee residue.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

FairRecycler said:


> Yes, the nearside hole of the solenoid.
> 
> Citric acid won't help a lot, I would rather poke it with something (the hole is 4mm) or soak in cafizza or puly caff. It should be coffee residue.


 Yup, no just checked and it is all free, poked it with a steel wire and could see it. I pushed water through and had flow from the GH.

No, must be the solenoid but I checked it 3 times, all good.

Unless it s the OPV, i can see flow returning to the tank but didn t strip it naked.

Or I messed with the wiring/switch?

I have a nice and steady flow from the wand by the way....

Thanks again


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Dorian said:


> Yup, no just checked and it is all free, poked it with a steel wire and could see it. I pushed water through and had flow from the GH.
> 
> No, must be the solenoid but I checked it 3 times, all good.
> 
> ...


 It can't be the OPV as you have flow from the steam wand.

The wiring looks fine to me as long as the marked blue wire goes to the solenoid









I would check continuity between these two terminals when the switch is in brew mode. It's easy to knock out the contactor from position upon assembling the switch.









If you don't have a multimeter you can either check visually through the corresponding tiny hole from the bottom of the switch (opposite to the one I marked) if the contactor engages or not.


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Also make sure to fit the locking spring to the solenoid waste hose.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Yup, spot on @FairRecycler,

Thank you so much for the clear guidance! You re a star.

I failed to replaced the switch connectors correctly at first!

Now I have a working Classic (again), I regretted a lot selling my '98 Coffee Classic a couple of years ago when I got an Europiccola...

All the best!


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

I'm glad to hear you sorted it.

I would have a look at the shower screen, it's probably a bit loose or something jammed underneath. There is a stream between the dispersion plate and the shower screen on the left.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

FairRecycler said:


> I'm glad to hear you sorted it.
> 
> I would have a look at the shower screen, it's probably a bit loose or something jammed underneath. There is a stream between the dispersion plate and the shower screen on the left.
> 
> View attachment 56390


 Yes, noticed that myself, it must be because I battered up the holder pretty well when I was trying to remove it 

I think a new holder is due here, maybe a stainless one


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

If you have really steady hands and a small stone bit for the Dremel, you should be able to put it right though.


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

FairRecycler said:


> If you have really steady hands and a small stone bit for the Dremel, you should be able to put it right though.


 No Dremel unfortunately, but I ll see if I am able to get a cheap brass or steel holder somewhere in a few weeks. The original one is very hard to look at anyway and probably it is best to replace it .

In the end this Classic costed me only 25€, I wonder if I should sell it and save for a Mara X! But I will probably keep it a bit, it s nice machine and a true icon!


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## Alfieboy (Dec 26, 2018)

Dorian said:


> No Dremel unfortunately, but I ll see if I am able to get a cheap brass or steel holder somewhere in a few weeks. The original one is very hard to look at anyway and probably it is best to replace it .
> 
> In the end this Classic costed me only 25€, I wonder if I should sell it and save for a Mara X! But I will probably keep it a bit, it s nice machine and a true icon!


 I'll offer you £30 😎


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

Uncletits said:


> I'll offer you £30 😎


 I politely decline.... 😂


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## DarkShadow (Jan 14, 2021)

Glad you sorted the panel switch, you can find my musings here: https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/58077-gaggia-classic-switch-panel-just-shattered-arghhhhh/?tab=comments#comment-820277


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## FairRecycler (Sep 26, 2019)

Uncletits said:


> I'll offer you £30 😎


 £35 😂


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## Dorian (Sep 5, 2016)

FairRecycler said:


> £35 😂


 If you keep bidding guys you ll get there eventually 😂..

Only joking, I ll keep it for some time, it ll be nice to switch from a lever for a bit.


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