# Auber timed dosing - external box



## MrShades

My project for today was to finally assemble my timed dosing external box - after a few weeks of getting the parts together.

In order to do this, I bought (I'll list pretty much everything!)

- Auber JSL-72 (bare timer unit): £37.51

- Buttons - AliExpress - £4.79 (probably identical to the Auber ones, but cheap - for a set of 3)

- Project Box - Maplins - £12.49 (could probably find it much cheaper online, but wanted it ASAP)

- On/Off switch - Maplins - £2.79 (could probably find it slightly cheaper online, but not much)

- Rubber feet - Maplins - £1.69 for 4 (not a bad price - but if I wanted 10 or 20 then could find them cheaper [per unit] online)

- 5m 1way mains extension lead - eBay - £6.99

Other than a few incidentals (choc-blocks, cables ties, crimp connectors, etc.) that's the lot : just over £66

The end result - shown below - is probably similar to the Auber external controller

The Auber unit is $105 + $31 shipping, which with only VAT added comes to $164 - so about £105, and that'd be an absolute minimum (unless you scraped through without VAT or duty - in which case it'd be about £88 total)

So - here's my (almost finished) effort:





































I just need to put the decals on properly - printed on transfer paper, etc. - which should look better (these are simply printed on white paper and cut out!).

I debated for ages whether to do this external box as a 'mod' to the host grinder, and have the grinder plugged into the mains as per usual - and then this external box connected to the grinder via some sort of umbilical cable that took over control, etc, OR to do it (as I have) as a transportable (ie swap it easily between host grinders, that aren't touched in any way) unit - that itself plugs into the mains, and then the grinder plugs into it.

It works brilliantly - and I've fitted an 'on/off' switch to bypass the timer box if desired (so when "on" the timer controls the grinder via the buttons; when "off" the Auber timer shuts off and the grinder runs as if it were plugged directly into the mains).

Anyway - I really like it - and hopefully it means that my 'investment' (mainly in quite a few man-hours and £70 of parts) can be carried forward from grinder to grinder, should I wish.


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## emin-j

Very nice Ms ?, my son is currently assembling 2 of these timers one for him and one for me ?

He has fitted three buttons which light up white/green/red (Italian flag) ?


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## urbanbumpkin

I really like the look of this.

I was thinking of doing this for my Major.

Possibly having the grinder or something else sat on top of the box if all of the buttons could be on the leading edge.


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## urbanbumpkin

Just out of interest, what size box is that?


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## MrShades

I'm not completely sure - cus I don't have the box here right now, but it's probably this one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/hammond-eddystone-die-cast-aluminium-shallow-lid-thin-wall-188x120x57mm-n93bq

This box has "evolved" since this original post.... I'll explain a little further:

It was built like this so that I could switch the mains supply to a Compak K6 (about 240W I think) grinder. It worked well.

I then changed the Compak K6 to a Mazzer Royal (900W) and I knew I had to do something different - as the relays in the Auber unit would fry if switching 900W of motor (the reverse EMF from the motor as it spins down isn't pleasant!). I discussed this with Auber, and initially they said "Yes, it's rated at more than 900W - it's fine" but when I pushed them they changed to "Ah, well, no if it's for a 900W Royal then we could upgrade the relay for you <blah>".</blah>

Anyway, I decided that the safer option was to use a 40A Solid State Relay. I figured that would both protect the Auber unit and provide sufficiently meaty a relay to switch the mains for the Royal.

So - fitting a 40A SSR AA - with the Auber timer now simply switching 240V to flip the relay, and then the relay itself being the load bearer for the output mains socket that the grinder plugged in to - this worked...

.... for about 10 on/off cycles. Then the SSR fried, and the Royal simply stuttered - so I swapped it and tried again and it did the same thing again.

So - I've changed the way it works, so that the Auber unit switches the low-current 'contactor' circuit in the Royal via a short 2-core umbilical between the grinder and this box. The Royal is plugged in to the mains, and this box is also plugged in separately - and then the two are joined together via a short cable (with a screw connector inline so that I can disconnect them).

Works well now, and I'm happy that the SSR is in there to protect the (comparatively more expensive) Auber unit.


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## risky

How does this differ from the internal version of an auber on a royal? (aside from not being in a box outside the grinder obviously)


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## urbanbumpkin

Aside from being in an external box (and not having to cut holes in the grinder) that's about it. It does have its own power supply which I don't think the internal ones always have.


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## MrShades

Well - it has it's own power supply by virtue of the fact that it's connected to the 240V mains. There is no "PSU" as such, it's a mains lead that connects directly to the power terminals of the Auber timer. The same power feed scenario applies when they're internal - it's just wiring.

There is no real difference between what I have now done (with it switching the contactor circuit) and the internal Royal ones. The only real difference now is that I've also put an SSR in the circuit to protect the Auber unit... and whilst not necessary, if anything does go wrong I'd rather fry another £5 SSR than a £40 Auber timer.

Functionally and operationally they're identical - but I wanted to make a unit that would be transportable between grinders as/when I upgraded - and didn't involve hacking holes into the grinder, however elegant the finished solution (esp @CallumT 's) may be!


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## CallumT

The switching circuit you tap into doesn't carry any real load, so the auber timer is safe or I have never had any issues in applications within Royals and Roburs.

The idea to remove the large contactor is a cool mod though today I had a look inside a Vulcano E and saw the electronics are quite different and superior to normal mazzers to clunky contactor to handle the load of the starting capacitors (there are 2 on Conics)

Contactor being a machanical moving component is easily jammed with a loose wore which won't allow start up when you do the auber mod which is a one to make sure you keep the wiring / routing tidy.


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## MrShades

The IDEA to replace the contactor is good - but I've yet to find an SSR that will stand the reverse EMF. It's frying 40A/380V ones (which I thought would be sufficient) within a few cycles... (it's the reverse EMF that kills them, and I can't think of a good way to cushion the blow....as it's an AC motor I think I need to look at TVSs or similar).

A contactor may be clunky, but it's as effective as throwing a switch (which in effect is what it's doing) and these new fangled relays and SSRs struggle with the motor loads - which I guess is why they stuck with the contactor for so long.


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## CallumT

I'll try and pull up the wiring diagrams for the Vulcano. See what they spec'd from factory. I suspect they way the motor is wired is completely different though as there is 3 X the wiring in the shell. At least


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## jeebsy

What about the r120?


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## risky

Interesting stuff. The reason I really asked was because I saw the difficulties you had and wondered how Callum had handled them with the internal version.


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## urbanbumpkin

I'm still interested at doing this. Has the kit list / wiring diagram been revised since the last posts. If there's anyone else thinking of getting an Auber it might work out cheaper if there's more than one of us.


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## MediumRoastSteam

urbanbumpkin said:


> I'm still interested at doing this. Has the kit list / wiring diagram been revised since the last posts. If there's anyone else thinking of getting an Auber it might work out cheaper if there's more than one of us.


I would be interested in one external timer unit.


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## MrShades

This external timer box works well - IF the grinder is reasonably low powered (ie

The problem is mainly caused by the reverse EMF (the high voltage created by the motor when it spins down). The Royal fried a 40A 300V SSR that I'd put in the circuit (to protect the Auber relay) after about 4 or 5 cycles.

So - with a small-ish grinder it'll work well, with a large one it'll probably not work that well.

The fix for this would be to use a heavy duty contactor to do the switching within the box.... which I've ordered the parts for and will be testing within the next few months - as it should then allow this to be used with almost any grinder.


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## Rob1

urbanbumpkin said:


> I'm still interested at doing this. Has the kit list / wiring diagram been revised since the last posts. If there's anyone else thinking of getting an Auber it might work out cheaper if there's more than one of us.


I'd be in on that. I'm looking at a Sestos timer now. It would cost about £30-£35 for the project box, buttons etc and of course time for wiring. It would work for a double dose and pulse mode using two switches. Don't know how reliable it is or how well it would work with a 750w motor.


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## MrShades

The Auber unit probably works out at about £30 in itself but is better than anything else I could find. It's the only device capable of doing "single shot", and "double shot" and "pulse".... though I only searched for about 6 months - so if you look long and hard you MAY find something else (and if you do, then say so on here!).

A 750w motor would probably be very doubtful on the small relays in these units. I'm just "upgrading" my box to include a contactor relay, and once I have it all sorted then I'll post on here with full wiring and notes, etc. I'm aiming to get it working reliably with a 900W Royal.


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## coffeechap

the auber units really are the best option for the mazzers, they have very accurate adjustment and are not too expensive, especially if you are prepared to cut them into the side of the grinder. Like this


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## urbanbumpkin

Looks really good, I still like the idea of an external box. Especially as I may wreck the brush metal finish that took hours to sort out.

There's that and I'd quite like the option to be able to keep it if I ever did swap the grinder.


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## oursus

coffeechap said:


> the auber units really are the best option for the mazzers, they have very accurate adjustment and are not too expensive, especially if you are prepared to cut them into the side of the grinder. Like this
> 
> View attachment 17772
> 
> 
> View attachment 17774


That looks the business, what sort of dose variation do you get with that?


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## coffeechap

if you keep a constant weight on the beans or use at least 500 grams, the dose on dose accuracy is very good with the aubered mazzers


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## Rob1

I love the way that looks but I don't know how well it would go down with the Ceado. The shape of it limits the available positions. I could go all out and replace the doser with a hacked fudge funnel when I rewire the switches so it just works off the power button, then maybe have some room to mount the auber. I kind of like the doser though.


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## oursus

MrShades said:


> The IDEA to replace the contactor is good - but I've yet to find an SSR that will stand the reverse EMF. It's frying 40A/380V ones (which I thought would be sufficient) within a few cycles... (it's the reverse EMF that kills them, and I can't think of a good way to cushion the blow....as it's an AC motor I think I need to look at TVSs or similar).
> 
> A contactor may be clunky, but it's as effective as throwing a switch (which in effect is what it's doing) and these new fangled relays and SSRs struggle with the motor loads - which I guess is why they stuck with the contactor for so long.


Would a TVS be the same as a snubber circuit?


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## MrShades

Although my knowledge of both is very limited, yes, I think that's what's required - if properly specced and designed to suit the currents/voltages involved.

I'm assuming that a contactor avoids the need for anything like that, as the break is physical (and should be good enough to avoid any arcing or component damage - or at least that's my assumption!).

If a contactor works for Mazzer then it will hopefully work for me!


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## oursus

MrShades said:


> Although my knowledge of both is very limited, yes, I think that's what's required - if properly specced and designed to suit the currents/voltages involved.
> 
> I'm assuming that a contactor avoids the need for anything like that, as the break is physical (and should be good enough to avoid any arcing or component damage - or at least that's my assumption!).
> 
> If a contactor works for Mazzer then it will hopefully work for me!


Afaik snubber circuits are most commonly just a capacitor and a resistor... It's to stop inductive backlash yeah?


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## MrShades

Yes - indeed -but working out what's required (ie the rating of said components) to stop them being fried is beyond me! Any help gratefully received...


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## oursus

Suppressor would be the common term... Have them in washing machines etc... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snubber


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## oursus

MrShades said:


> Yes - indeed -but working out what's required (ie the rating of said components) to stop them being fried is beyond me! Any help gratefully received...


Sorry, cross post.... Shouldn't be insurmountable... Normally find that simple solutions are either for economics or because they work best!


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## oursus

If you know anyone who reads Greek? http://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/pdf/Papers/RC_snubber.pdf


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## teejay41

MrShades said:


> This external timer box works well - IF the grinder is reasonably low powered (ie
> 
> The problem is mainly caused by the reverse EMF (the high voltage created by the motor when it spins down). The Royal *fried a 40A 300V SSR* that I'd put in the circuit (to protect the Auber relay) after about 4 or 5 cycles.
> 
> So - with a small-ish grinder it'll work well, with a large one it'll probably not work that well.
> 
> *The fix for this would be to use a heavy duty contactor to do the switching within the box....* which I've ordered the parts for and will be testing within the next few months - as it should then allow this to be used with almost any grinder.


I have a Royal with built-in Auber timer... fitted by Callum I think, as part of a refurb shortly before I owned it. When the timer switches (i.e. the motor starts or stops) there is a heck of a 'clunk' from low down in the casing, so I guess a moderately hefty contactor has been deployed. Works very well though - no electrical probs whatsoever.

The integrated fitting of my Auber timer looks exactly like that of the Royal photo in coffechap's post (#19 in this thread). So I guess that's the preferred way of installing an Auber in a Royal.

Tony.


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## Rob1

I'm guessing a bulk buy on the auber units without box and buttons etc wouldn't be worthwhile as you'd have to pay customs fees and vat due to the increased price and postage costs would go up.


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## MrShades

@teejay41 - yes, an internal installation makes the electrical stuff simpler (the clunk is the hefty contactor that is already in all Royals as standard) - but obviously involves hacking holes in the case and it's irreversible.

The way I've wired my external timer is the same as yours - controlling the contactor - which is pretty simple, but obviously involves a simple 'umbilical' from box to grinder, rather than it being just the box plugged in the wall and the grinder plugged in the box - which would be my ideal scenario (for simplicity and portability reasons, and involves no holes in the grinder).


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## teejay41

MrShades said:


> @teejay41 - yes, an internal installation makes the electrical stuff simpler (the clunk is the hefty contactor that is already in all Royals as standard) - but obviously involves hacking holes in the case and it's irreversible.
> 
> The way I've wired my external timer is the same as yours - controlling the contactor - which is pretty simple, but obviously involves a simple 'umbilical' from box to grinder, rather than it being just the box plugged in the wall and the grinder plugged in the box - which would be my ideal scenario (for simplicity and portability reasons, and involves no holes in the grinder).


Your external Auber would presumably switch the Royal's contactor, so apart from having to snuff the modest back-emf from that, what's causing your burnout problems?

Tony.


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## MrShades

Nothing with my current solution - it works as you said - but my preference is just to be able to plug the grinder (any grinder) directly into the box.


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## 4085

With Mr Shades giving me some advice, I ordered the Auberins timer box

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=298

They switched the plug on the back panel to a UK plug for $17, which means you use a kettle/pc power lead to connect to your mains, then the grinder plugs straight into the box. The kind people declared customs label at $15.99 so including delivery it came in at $151 or just on £100. I have not used it yet but hopefully, will do soon


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## coffeechap

What just mr shades advice!


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## 4085




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## oursus

coffeechap said:


> What just mr shades advice!


Well I've certainly spent enough money, this month & sensibly speaking I think PID is first, but thinking about the month after... What are the pros & cons of the two solutions we see here ( for a Royal, bear in mind)

Looks good by the way DFK


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## MrShades

I'd be eager to see inside the Auber unit to see if they include any addition snubbing components - because if they don't then it's identical to my DIY unit (also using the Auber timer unit) and a big commercial grinder would probably kill the small relay in the Auber timer.

My contactor has now arrived and I just need to find some time to fiddle with it.


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## oursus

MrShades said:


> I'd be eager to see inside the Auber unit to see if they include any addition snubbing components - because if they don't then it's identical to my DIY unit (also using the Auber timer unit) and a big commercial grinder would probably kill the small relay in the Auber timer.
> 
> My contactor has now arrived and I just need to find some time to fiddle with it.


Good call...nice to see how the snubber is set up/rated too.


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## 4085

Not really knowing what I am doing, I have taken the screws off either end and tried to photograph the insides


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## coffeechap

MrShades said:


> I'd be eager to see inside the Auber unit to see if they include any addition snubbing components - because if they don't then it's identical to my DIY unit (also using the Auber timer unit) and a big commercial grinder would probably kill the small relay in the Auber timer.
> 
> My contactor has now arrived and I just need to find some time to fiddle with it.


this is interesting as I have never had any problems with wiring the unit straight into the grinder and have done a few (which are in commercial settings) so am a little sceptical about the "probably" statement.


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## urbanbumpkin

Valid point Dave as from what I've read the boxed Auber units are sold to be wired directly to Mazzer Grinders.

I can't see any additional components in the boxed Auber ones. I'm all for fail safes though.


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## oursus

coffeechap said:


> this is interesting as I have never had any problems with wiring the unit straight into the grinder and have done a few (which are in commercial settings) so am a little sceptical about the "probably" statement.


Have those been on the 900w machines, Chap?


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## coffeechap

oursus said:


> Have those been on the 900w machines, Chap?


yep, only ever fitted them to the royals


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## oursus

coffeechap said:


> yep, only ever fitted them to the royals


Looks as if only an issue with the SSR, then?


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## 4085

If someone sends me aRoyal, I will plug it in and report back.......I have emailed Auberins and asked them if the unit will take a Royal, so will see what they say


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## mokapoka

Im about to order this for my Major. Auber told me if I use it in commercial setting they would need to change the relay. But for home use it should be ok.


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## MrShades

There's a big difference between mounting them internally and just switching the contactor in the Royal, and providing the power entirely through the Auber timers relay.

They work perfectly when internal, and I had no issue when powering a K6, but the Royal popped two SSRs.

Yes, perhaps the relay would take it and the 40A 380v SSRs that I've tried won't... But I don't want to try it directly powering the Royal only to fubar the relay.

(Last comment for tonight as battery on 1%)


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## coffeechap

MrShades said:


> There's a big difference between mounting them internally and just switching the contactor in the Royal, and providing the power entirely through the Auber timers relay.
> 
> They work perfectly when internal, and I had no issue when powering a K6, but the Royal popped two SSRs.
> 
> Yes, perhaps the relay would take it and the 40A 380v SSRs that I've tried won't... But I don't want to try it directly powering the Royal only to fubar the relay.
> 
> (Last comment for tonight as battery on 1%)


Ok, for clarity all of mine have been cut into the side of the royal and only control the contactor, which will never cause a problem for these timers, however I have never tried a plug in device and appreciate that the load will be different, will be interesting to see the solution that you come up with for a plug in device. The auber stand alone unit (not the one DFK has bought) has to be wired in the same way as the cut into the body units that I do, and they wont fail either, however it does mean you have to hard wire them into the grinder replacing the auto function flap feed.


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## oursus

coffeechap said:


> Ok, for clarity all of mine have been cut into the side of the royal and only control the contactor, which will never cause a problem for these timers, however I have never tried a plug in device and appreciate that the load will be different, will be interesting to see the solution that you come up with for a plug in device. The auber stand alone unit (not the one DFK has bought) has to be wired in the same way as the cut into the body units that I do, and they wont fail either, however it does mean you have to hard wire them into the grinder replacing the auto function flap feed.


I can see why DFK went with the modified version, if you need to bridge out/replace the auto function, I'd be tempted to go the whole hog and hack the body. On that subject CC, how much of your button placement was Aesthetic & how much functional? (It occurs to me that all 3 buttons on the front might be easier access - actually for me just below the side vents is where my hand falls, but I can imagine space being a little tight there & replacement requiring a full re-build)


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## mokapoka

I'm tempted to buy the more expensive box that includes the Espresso Shot Timer but wonder if it is worth it? Anyone have the box with the Shot timer, does it work well?


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## emin-j

My Son made a couple of timers both used on sj's , they're working great at the moment


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## MrShades

dfk41 said:


> Not really knowing what I am doing, I have taken the screws off either end and tried to photograph the insides


Thanks for doing that David - I certainly can't see any additional components in there at all, just an Auber timer directly switching the mains supply by the looks of it.

Certainly interested to hear Aubers reply. They'd previously told me that they could increase the rating of the relay in the timer unit to hopefully accommodate - and they may do that on these units already.


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## malling

It is made in 3 versions, as far as I understand it the basic version is made for low wattage grinders, but unless you run it with a Royal or Robur it should not be an issue, the majority is rated under 650w, my k10pb is just 450w!

The big version you will need to wire and is made specifically with Mazzers high end grinders in mind. So this is the one to get for a Royal or other high powered grinders

I own the basic version and works just find


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## urbanbumpkin

What's a major just out of interest?


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## malling

650w as far as I recall


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## 4085

Reply from Aubergines

Hi David,

You original email mentioned a 300 watt grinder, So, I didn't discuss the larger relay issue. For a 900 watt grinder, there might be issue if it is for commercial use. The relay in the timer is rated for 7A at 240, resistive load. However, since the motor is a inductive load, the rating will drop to between 0.3 and 0.7 times of that for the resistive load , depending on the inductance of the motor. I think 900 W is pushing to the limit of the relay. If you use it once a day, it is going to last for a while. However, if it is for commercial use, there will be a problem. We have a customer in Ireland used it commercially for a 1800w grinder , One unit lasted one year and second unit only lasted 6 months.

To solve this problem, you can install a higher capacity relay inside of the timer box. Here is the relay you can use. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=527

This relay will last significantly longer than the internal relay of the timer. In addition, it is very easy to be replaced it it every wore out.You can send it back for use to install it, or install it by you own. Here is a picture that shows where it can be installed. http://auberins.com/images/Mbox-switch-R30A.jpg

Thanks,

Suyi


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## MrShades

Thanks David - very helpful and what they suggest is essentially what I did with an SSR.

I didn't bother then trying a simple relay - as I've gone with a full blown contactor relay that I'm going to try to squeeze in the box somewhere!

Good to see the reply and photo too, so thanks again.


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## urbanbumpkin

emin-j said:


> My Son made a couple of timers both used on sj's , they're working great at the moment


What box have you used on that?


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## MrShades

That one is using the Auber timer as well - it's the best (and only option really)


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## GlennV

MrShades said:


> That one is using the Auber timer as well - it's the best (and only option really)


I've been looking at the Sestos B3S. It won't do separate times for single and double shots (which I don't require) but seems to do everything else as far as I can see - and is half the price (I make it at least £50 for the Auber when delivery and tax is taken into account). The sestos also has the advantage of 4 dedicated buttons to change each of the 4 digits of the set time. Am I missing something?


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## Rob1

I make it £50 at the most assuming you use a credit card with no charge for foreign transactions. Yeah, the Sestos is half price assuming you pay duty and vat, but as you'll read here that isn't always the case so you might be lucky and pay around £40. For an external timer that you wire in to the contactor you might get away with a Sestos, but If you're going to cut something into an expensive grinder you'll want to use the auber for resale value. Some people like those singles.


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## malling

And if your little handy you could also use a arduino and then program it, such solution are looking allot better then auber






You are properly not going to pay VAT and customs as Aubers tend to go pass these due to how it's posted


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## 4085

bit more info from Auberins

Hi David,

Attached is are a timer box with external relay. The relay is attached to the front surface. It is made for another customer. This timer has the shot timer option. So, there is more wire inside.

Thanks,

Sui


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## oursus

malling said:


> And if your little handy you could also use a arduino and then program it, such solution are looking allot better then auber


Is it wrong that I'm a little turned on by this?


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## mokapoka

dfk41 said:


> bit more info from Auberins
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> Attached is are a timer box with external relay. The relay is attached to the front surface. It is made for another customer. This timer has the shot timer option. So, there is more wire inside.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Sui


I think this is mine







. I paid an extra 10$ for the relay.


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## Rob1

malling said:


> And if your little handy you could also use a arduino and then program it, such solution are looking allot better then auber


I thought that may be an option but wouldn't know where to begin. Maybe the guy who made the video can open source the code. Would be nice to have something smaller and more elegant than a boxed auber, a control panel could even be mounted into the lid of the doser.


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## malling

This is what is needed

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151166200963

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251233903648

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280871195459

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121195339728

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380642097967

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300808099987

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141087415791

This should be the code

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eji0uf5swyt8bty/OLED.ino


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## Rob1

Well that was unexpected. Maybe this could also be connected to a weight sensor to grind by weight if converting to OD.


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## GlennV

malling said:


> This should be the code
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/eji0uf5swyt8bty/OLED.ino


That's just the code for the screen I think, the link to the whole project is here: (post 73)

http://www.espressobar.dk/forums/showthread.php?7376-Vildt-Mazzer-Kony-doserless-og-timer-mod/page8

nice


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## Rob1

Very interesting stuff. Will have to look into this further.


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## malling

There is actually a guy doing exactly that - grinding by weight


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## emin-j

urbanbumpkin said:


> What box have you used on that?


The boxes came from China via fleabay solid aluminium lovely quality.


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## Rob1

Found another one:






I'd mount the LCD and buttons to the smallest project box I could find/print and wire it to the grinder/arduino with a coil cord.


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## MrShades

Rob1 said:


> Found another one:


That looks pretty cool - especially using the standard Auto rotary knob to start it. Nice idea and looks very cool..... Would prefer chrome buttons rather than those awful glowing things, but each to their own.

I feel an Arduino starter set coming on........


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## Rob1

Might have to send an email off to him...

Can anyone make sense of the diagram and images of the internals? Where is the contactor and terminal block in his diagram? Looks very simple compared to the auberins diagram for the SJ.


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## Rob1

So I emailed him and got a response. He re-wired the grinder completely and soldered wires onto an acdc power supply which he hooked up to the switch (not sure why he didn't chop the plug off and just wire it straight in, but there you go). He told me when the contactor was in place the electromagnetic radiation caused problems with the LCD display, so he replaced it with two SSRs. I don't really want to re-wire the entire grinder or remove the contactor, but from what I can tell wiring the arduino in the same way you would wire the auber to the terminal block in place of micro switches should be successful so long as you wire in an acdc power supply to switch the voltage from 240 to 9 for the arduino. Of course the LCD would have to be mounted far enough away from the contactor.

Can an anyone with first hand knowledge of wiring these grinders chime in on this?


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