# Isomac Millenium - Problem during renovation



## TheSentinel (Aug 20, 2013)

*Please help a thirsty Swede.*

I recently bought a neglected Isomac Millennium as a renovation project. Im having some problems and is really in need of help (No service available here in Sweden).

*The story so far:*

Former owner had it stored a couple of years since it had started to leak underneath. Just before I got it (yesterday) he tock it out and started it up, it leaked and directly blew the fuse in the wall socket.

When I got there I quickly located a lose silicone hose that leaked right out on the electrics. Since it was still wet I didn't start up. We negotiated a price and I headed home. I pulled it apart and reattached the lose hose to the OPV. Dried everything up, including the inside of the Giemme Control Box and then filled up the tank, wile adding some citric acid thats been laying around.

*1st start up:* Both red indicators turns on. Takes in water, starts to heat and building up pressure. Pump keeps going, and at 0.5 bar it starts to push out hot water back to the tank. Nothing but drops comes out of the water outlet and no steam. Never got a green light or tried the coffee lever. At this point I called it a night and let it cool down.

*2nd start up:* Both red indicators turns on. Takes in water, starts to heat and again at 0.5 bar starts to push out hot water back to the water tank. Seems like the pump stays on all the time. A little water can be extracted from the water outlet, no steam. Didn't pull the coffee lever, no green light. Turned it of pretty quick, trying to avoid overheating. Letting it cool down for an hour.

*3rd start up:* Both red indicators turns on. Doesn't take in water and now doesn't heat ether.

Nothing from the water outlet, no steam. Pulled the coffee lever and the pump starts, slowly pouring out some water thru the groups head. Nu real flushing, but slow like pulling a hard pressed shot. Still no green light.

If I remove the cable from the water level sensor, it starts to fill up. Measuring the thermofuse, got a 0 reading, guess thats ok. Measuring the heating element, got a OL reading (Oh no, Did I kill it?).

What to do now?








*Edit - **Fault found: New OPV rubber valve (first fault) and a new heating element (second fault, that could have been avoided). *


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

I do not know this machine but it sounds as if it has been neglected.Probably scaled up inside,possibly scale particles in valves ,partially blocked pump /OPV, water sensor stuck in empty position.

Re check readings across heater connections but it does sound as if you have "cooked" the heating element. Try heating element directly across terminals.

PS Also check between element contacts and "ground" =earth=boiler


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## TheSentinel (Aug 20, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> I do not know this machine but it sounds as if it has been neglected.Probably scaled up inside,possibly scale particles in valves ,partially blocked pump /OPV, water sensor stuck in empty position. Re check readings across heater connections but it does sound as if you have "cooked" the heating element. Try heating element directly across terminals.
> 
> PS Also check between element contacts and "ground" =earth=boiler


Thanks. Iv'e done a descale at first startup, and when the water level sensor is disconnected, the machine starts to fill up, so the pump and sensor seams ok.

I've ordered a heater element today, hopefully it's a step in the right direction. The solenoid valve looks ok after the cleaning. According to the parts dealer, a stuck solenoid staying open, can give the same symptoms - water pressured back to the tank and finally dry-heating and damaging the element (can anyone confirm this?). Im also changing the original 184 degree heat fuse to a 167 degree, hopefully this will save the heater element if this happens again. Does anyone know how to or have a guide for measuring or renovate the components of the 230V Giemme box? Please keep posting tips, I need more ideas if this doesn't work.


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

If there are any particles of scale in the OPV the valve does not seat and pressure cannot build up as the water is allowed to return to the tank.Have you stripped the valve and cleaned the inside components?

Changing to a lower capacity fuse may affect brewing temperature/and steaming, values are calculated to suit the machine!!. Reducing the rating will not save the heating element in a boil/run dry situation (is this a fuse or fusible link ?)


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## TheSentinel (Aug 20, 2013)

The OPV is pretty much what I have left to check. The thermal fuse is a very simple application, a regular thermal fuse http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/wysrt.cnwfk/v/vspfiles/photos/G4A01167C-2.jpg?1353416686 in a red safety sleeve attached to the tank http://www.home-barista.com/forums/userpix/269_8720_img_0136_small.jpg

The change doesn't affect the normal functions, since the fuse main function is to break when the heating element is risking a overheat. In my case, the fuse didn't break as it should have, making it worthless. The fuse was 184 degree from the Isomac factory, and I've seen a lot of recommendations from resellers, to replace it with a lower 167 degree. The 184 is set to high so the element goes first instead, should be the other way around making it a $5 repair instead of a $100 repair.


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## TheSentinel (Aug 20, 2013)

Guess what, I think I found the main problem! As I disassembled the OPV, the rubber pad had totally deteriorated and split in three pieces.

The easiest part to check - I found it last of all, well thats life I guess







Now hoping I can get a hold of the OPV at the same time I pick up my heater element in a couple of hours.


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## TheSentinel (Aug 20, 2013)

Yes! Now it's up n' running. Conclusion: New OPV rubber valve (first fault) and new heating element (second fault, that could have been avoided).


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