# Gaggia Classic- Electrics Issue



## sjdavies47 (Jun 29, 2014)

Hi,

First time poster. I have a gold Classic that has developed some sort of electric short. In fact if I try to switch it on it trips the house fuse. Any idea? Is it likely to be beyond repair?

Thanks in advance

Steffan


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## The Systemic Kid (Nov 23, 2012)

If you are reasonably competent, you might want to look inside and see if there is anything obvious amiss. Might be a good idea to get in touch with gaggiamanualservice.com member but, to do so, you need to up your number of posts to be able to access the private message forum facility.


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## Glenn (Jun 14, 2008)

This is a common issue with some of the older Gaggia's - not normally the classic though but certainly the Baby and other variants

Usually a strip down and check for leaks will fix.

Search 'tripping electrics' or similar phrases here to see the root cause and fix suggestions


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

As TSK said are you confident to look inside?, just two screws at rear on top and lift up top and release one cable clipped to top inside (EARTH) ALL THIS WHILE UNPLUGGED FROM SOCKET

If you do this look inside for any burn marks or discoloured cable connections, any of this information can then be relayed to Mark (gaggiamanualserve)

My own thought is that it "could" be the boiler element. Parts are readily available so in answer to your question it is not beyond repair.


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## sjdavies47 (Jun 29, 2014)

Thanks all. I found this forum via tapatalk and it turns out the Mark is the guy who did the last service!!! I've taken the top off and there doesn't seem to be anything obvious or burnt.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

I'm new to this forum and have really enjoyed some of the threads about diagnoses . I bought a Classic ("for parts", ) that trips the breaker as soon as the power switch is activated. it's date is 2011, . i replaced the thermal fuse although the old one appears OK (thought it would work and plunged ahead without care). with the thermal fuse removed the switch does nothing and does not trip the breakers . I'm getting a multimeter tomorrow in the US (120V) . even with both elements, solenoid pump, thermostats detached it exhibits same fault . bottom terminal on main steam (big) switch has some scorching . i labeled the main switch terminals and don't believe they were mis-wired by my hand.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Billio said:


> I'm new to this forum and have really enjoyed some of the threads about diagnoses . I bought a Classic ("for parts", ) that trips the breaker as soon as the power switch is activated. it's date is 2011, . i replaced the thermal fuse although the old one appears OK (thought it would work and plunged ahead without care). with the thermal fuse removed the switch does nothing and does not trip the breakers . I'm getting a multimeter tomorrow in the US (120V) . even with both elements, solenoid pump, thermostats detached it exhibits same fault . bottom terminal on main steam (big) switch has some scorching . i labeled the main switch terminals and don't believe they were mis-wired by my hand.


Sounds like you may have a short in the switch.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

ashcroc said:


> Sounds like you may have a short in the switch.


The switches are areally basic and mechanical - so I'd doubt the switch is at fault, but it is possible that it's mis-wired. If you're in the US then is the Classic on an earthed power-lead (3 pin) or is it just a 2 pin with no earth? (Hopefully it's earthed!).

So - with the thermal fuse in situ and everything that you've stated (elements, solenoid, pump, stats) disconnected - and all of the connections properly taped/covered - it STILL trips the electrics when turned on?

If so - I'd try and work out whether it's tripping due to a leak to earth, or a short between L and N. Quick way to do this (if the machine is earthed) is to remove the earth wire from the power socket at the back of the machine (obviously with it all turned off and unplugged). With the wire removed, try turning the machine back on again - BUT AT NO TIME TOUCH THE METAL CASE! Personally, if I were doing this test I'd use a wooden stick / spoon to flick the power switch - just to make sure I was nowhere near it.... because if the fault is a leak to earth (and you've removed the earth) then the metal case will be live. If you can turn the machine on, and it doesn't trip, then I'd assume that it's an earth leak somewhere. If it turns on and trips again, then I'd assume that it's a L-N short somewhere.

(Only do the above if you are confident and know roughly what you're doing!).


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

Thank You for your reply . It's the two pin lead with no earth , and i believe the factory for a lot of these US models didn't put the extra wire that would have connected from the lid to boiler with a spade connector. my research found this wire's absence is not a problem , still it's a guess . i will get my Multimeter today and I have not properly taped off with my quickie test but will test again after reading the above more carefully.


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

It can't be an earth leak then... as it's not earthed. Therefore it must be a breaker tripping due to excess current - and hence probably a short from L to N somewhere. (You should be reasonably safe just disconnecting the connectors, as most if not all are plastic insulated anyway and if it's not earthed then there's little chance of it being a connector leaking to earth causing the problem).

I'd start by referencing this diagram - and looking at the connections to the switchbank. Check you have all the connections in the right place.

http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=42

If they are all in the correct place then start disconnecting the wires from the switchbank and see if it makes any difference. If it were me, I'd probably go in this order initally:

- Remove top (probably single blue) connection behind 0/1 switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove middle (probably double blue) connection behind 0/1 switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove top (probably double blue) connection behind steam switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove middle (probably single blue) connection behind brew switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and, well - also post on here!

Let us know what happens...


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

Thank you for your reply. I agree about the switch my prime suspect . I ordered a new switch , it should get here Friday . I don't know if i should just plug in the new switch right away , I hope to festina lente . is it easy to test the old switch with a Multimeter ?


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

I am staring at the diagram , my main switch has 10 metal terminals , I can't figure out the switch diagram in order to verify, and the notation on the Gaggia Diagram, about the image of the Main Switch being reversed and the numbers reversed . my switch doesn't seem to correspond to the diagram,


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

THanks, I'm going to have to study this until I can verify the wiring to the main switch, i haven't figured it out . i have red brown blue and gray wires and i will keep studying this until i can verify correct wiring Thank You !


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

The diagram shows the switch as if it is transparent - and you're "looking through it" from the front. It's not easy to work out what goes where unless you grasp how it's drawn.

If you can post a photo of the rear of the switch with the wires connected then I may be able to spot something.

(Something like this one, which shows what the wires should be as standard) http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=707.0;attach=1142;image


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Billio said:


> Thank you for your reply. I agree about the switch my prime suspect . I ordered a new switch , it should get here Friday . I don't know if i should just plug in the new switch right away , I hope to festina lente . is it easy to test the old switch with a Multimeter ?


Whoa! The switches are really basic - and are simple rocker switches - but (certainly in the UK) definitely not cheap! I would have done a little more checking and diagnostics before plunging for a new switch. They typically switch the top connection to the middle one via sprung chunks of metal inside the switch. A multimeter should help buzz it out and see what the switch does. Steam is slightly more complicated than 0/1 and brew - but you should be able to see a difference when you flick the switches within the connections behind them.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

i know i should not have moved on the purchase of the switch , have some impulsivity . the top wire , when removed , does not trip the breaker when the main power switch is activated . I think the wiring agrees with the Diagram inasmuch as I could read it, relating to the main switch .


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Billio said:


> i know i should not have moved on the purchase of the switch , have some impulsivity . the top wire , when removed , does not trip the breaker when the main power switch is activated .


We're getting closer! That proves it's either the switch or is something connected to it.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

Thanks for all your help . I have found a combination that does not seem to trip breakers . If I detach the second terminal down on the Power switch , (brown wires Positive) then the main switch doesn't trip the breaker. . Thank You !~


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

ashcroc said:


> We're getting closer! That proves it's either the switch or is something connected to it.


I replaced the switch but still have the same result of tripping the breaker . I now have a multimeter but do not know what to test as it appears the fault is somewhere on the L side, because removing the second main power switch terminal results in no breaker tripping .


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Billio said:


> I replaced the switch but still have the same result of tripping the breaker . I now have a multimeter but do not know what to test as it appears the fault is somewhere on the L side, because removing the second main power switch terminal results in no breaker tripping .


Have you checked the wiring to make sure none of the insulation is missing causing a short?


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

I will inspect the insulation again , and my thermal fuse job , inspect for breaks . i'm sorry for buying switch on Ebay , because i have the same result as with the other switch . no lights and no joy .

For anyone who's read this, Thank YOU . I want to add that I have 3 Carezzas and one black "The Espresso" and I'm willing to cannibalize parts like thermostats since this is intractable to me . I now have a WeePro (ha!) multimeter i just got from ebay and don't know what tests / nor how to test this . Thanks !

If there is any way to test if Power Switch terminal #2 could be connected without breaker tripping , is all I can think of . but I tried combinations of unplugging the brown wire to Solenoid , and / or Pump , and combinations of removing heating element terminals and it always trips breaker if that brown double wire is connected to main switch terminal #2 .


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

That 2nd down brown wire that you remove - where does the wire go to?

What colour wire is connected to the bottom terminal behind the 0/1 switch and where does it go?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

It sounds like your brown wires are what are shown as blue wires on the Gaggia diagram - if that 2nd one is a double brown and one of the wires goes to the top one behind the steam switch.

If so - can you continue down that list of tests that I posted in post #10 - you've found that removing the middle wire stops it tripping, so replace it and move on to the next one (top behind steam switch) etc. Report back on here.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

MrShades said:


> That 2nd down brown wire that you remove - where does the wire go to?
> 
> What colour wire is connected to the bottom terminal behind the 0/1 switch and where does it go?


THanks. The bottom terminal behind the 0/1 switch is double white . one wire goes to top of steam switch and the other goes to the brew thermostat. The second terminal on the 0/1 switch has a brown double wire that goes to the solenoid, and to the front pin of heating element on steam knob side.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

I just tested the rest of the switch terminals . Every single one of them, when removed one at a time and then replaced, caused the breaker to trip . Thanks for your help .


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Yup - that bottom connection should be in the middle and the middle should be bottom... swap them round!


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

As it stands, you've got the L switching directly to N when you power up - shorting - so its overloadibg and tripping.


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## Billio (Feb 28, 2018)

MrShades said:


> Yup - that bottom connection should be in the middle and the middle should be bottom... swap them round!


Ok, I'm going to test this and report, thanks a lot !

It Lit UP!! Thank You ! I was at my wit's end .

now should i try to prime it ?


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## MrShades (Jul 29, 2009)

Great - yes, carry on and use it!


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## Melvo (May 17, 2018)

I am also experiencing a problem with my Gaggia Classic tripping the fuse.

I have a 6 month old American version of the Classic with two prong (I believe non earthed plug). Everything seemed to run fine for the past 6 months until I recently got around to decalicifying my machine (I don't use it that often). It get the impression that it found the whole process quite strenuous but it was only the day after that I noticed it shorting. Does anyone have any clue what could be causing the problem?

Turning the machine on is fine, and sometimes the wand seems to work fine but it always causes the fuse to go when the main button is pressed. I don't see any obvious signs of water damage but I do admit I got a funny smell after decalicifying my machine as if the liquid burnt a bit when doing its job (but it could have been a part too). Below is a photo of the inside. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## Melvo (May 17, 2018)

I looked at the process with the lid off and was astonished to see water dripping at the point at what I assume is the boiler.

I tightened the gold connector but afterwards saw that the leak is actually from where the plastic and metal is fused together. (photo below where you can even see water).









This might have been a fault from when I have the machine - is it a known fault? Does anyone know if it can easily be fixed?


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## AndyDClements (Aug 29, 2016)

That's the the pump, and the brass connector in question is compression fit one, so you can undo it, check that the pipe isn't split and is fully inserted and re-tighten it. That should cure the problem.


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## Melvo (May 17, 2018)

Thanks for that. It appears the leak is fixed but it still shorts the moment the coffee extractor button is engaged. I guess some cables have been damaged. Am I right in saying I need to use a multi meter to determine where the problem or does such a problem sound clear to anyone? Again any advice is greatly appreciated.


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## ChiangMaiKevin (Dec 18, 2017)

...


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

There is no way in hell I would ever run a coffee machine without an earth connection.

Water and electricity do not mix.


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## timmyjj21 (May 10, 2015)

So, confirm:

1) machine turns on and heats up (left most switch 0-1)

2) machine can also reach steam temperature (centre switch with steam picture)

3) machine shorts when you press the brew switch (right switch with coffee picture)

Pressing the brew switch activates the pump and the solenoid, both of which use electricity, and near the leak source!

Check them both, the solenoid is usually pretty bomb proof and rarely fails. Your pump appears to be an ancient Invensys with a thermal protection module on the side, this is a possible source of failure if it got wet (see warnings about electricity and water)

Again, I would never use this machine without an earth connection!


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## Melvo (May 17, 2018)

I don't know why Gaggia shipped their product out without one if that's the case. Seems like a random oversight if true. Is it a typical modification to change it?

But indeed your synopsis is accurate, though on top sometimes when hitting the steam button the machine shorts but not every time. Am still waiting to get my hands on a multimeter to see if that sheds some light on anything. Thanks for you assistance.


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## ashcroc (Oct 28, 2016)

Melvo said:


> I don't know why Gaggia shipped their product out without one if that's the case. Seems like a random oversight if true. Is it a typical modification to change it?
> 
> But indeed your synopsis is accurate, though on top sometimes when hitting the steam button the machine shorts but not every time. Am still waiting to get my hands on a multimeter to see if that sheds some light on anything. Thanks for you assistance.


Think a few peeps may have missed yours is a US spec machine with no earth as standard.

The UK/EU 240/220 spec machines all have earth fitted as standard & being a UK board it's a little strange seeing one without.


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