# Stuck bolts on Gaggia Classic



## marille (Oct 9, 2017)

I have a second hand Gaggia Classic which arrived in rather a poor condition. Despite descaling many times, the water flow will suddenly go down. I would like to take the boiler apart to clean it properly, but the bolts will absolutely not budge. Any tips?


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## Jumbo Ratty (Jan 12, 2015)

Yes,

Try using the search facility


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## crmdgnly (Apr 12, 2017)

What Jumbo said

With the addition you may just need to grind them off (other more obvious solutions exhausted) and tap a stanley knife blade between the two halfs. There is no thread in the boiler part, just in the group head


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Remove boiler from chassis, remove all components i.e. OPV, 3-way solenoid etc and get a long spline socket and hammer hard into the stuck boiler bolts. You should be able to remove them that way!


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

marille what have you tried so far in order to remove the bolts, are /have you tried good quality "allen keys ", penetrating oil on the bolts applying heat with a gas torch/ soldering iron.

Photo's and more information would be helpful.


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## marille (Oct 9, 2017)

Thanks for the replies! Have tried WD40, three sets of allen keys (both short or with T-bar) without success. Will try hammer and heat. Thanks again!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

try drilling out as a last resort or use mole grips- https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-grip-pliers-set-3-piece/17518

or stud extractor https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-stud-extractor-set-8-pcs/20084#_=p

most times you will find a leak from the boiler has let limescale cement in the bolts - so heat will help


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## Syenitic (Dec 1, 2013)

El carajillo said:


> marille what have you tried so far in order to remove the bolts, are /have you tried good quality "allen keys ", penetrating oil on the bolts applying heat with a gas torch/ soldering iron.
> 
> Photo's and more information would be helpful.


I am certain, that Franks engineering expertise is way beyond mine. But I became a little alarmed when I saw penetrating oil and gas torch in the same sentence.

And that comes from someone who had a Morris Minor/1000 engine in bits and on re-assembly got it going trickling petrol into the inlet manifold from a jug whilst the carb was still on the bench.


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## hotmetal (Oct 31, 2013)




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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Syenitic said:


> I am certain, that Franks engineering expertise is way beyond mine. But I became a little alarmed when I saw penetrating oil and gas torch in the same sentence.
> 
> And that comes from someone who had a Morris Minor/1000 engine in bits and on re-assembly got it going trickling petrol into the inlet manifold from a jug whilst the carb was still on the bench.


H& S have taken the fun out of most things these day's







:angel:.

The heat expands the metal and helps suck the pen /oil into the threads / joint:good:


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## joey24dirt (Jan 28, 2017)

Try tighten the bolts slightly first before backing them off. It had worked for me before in the past  not in a coffee machine but on a digger. Same principle though. Good luck


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## ajohn (Sep 23, 2017)

There are some 1/4 drive socket sets about that come with hex drivers. Well worth having about if some one takes things apart from time to time. Sets of the drivers can also be bought for use with 3/8 drives. It's a lot easier to apply leverage with both. While it's counter intuitive trying to tighten more first with some care can also help get things out. Depends on what it is as that might shear a head off or strip a thread.

Using heat might mean that things have to glow a bit, dull red at least.

John

-


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Ajohn's suggestion about 1/4" drive sockets is a good one, you can also buy screwdriver bit's and security bits which will cover most "white good's" and items used on coffee machines. Adapter's are available singly to enable you to use 3/8.

As good as 1/4" drive's are I would caution against using them on seized up bolts, they are not intended for that sort of use.


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## Mmiah (Feb 13, 2015)

WD40 is rubbish IMO, when working on cars I use PlusGas, works a lot better

WD40 is more for driving out moisture not a real penetrating oil

also if you are going to use a longer level hit the end with a hammer, short bursts of higher torque work better then constant sustained torque on a bolt, less likely to round the head off too


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## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Plus one for PlusGas:good:


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