# Pimp a 1962 Pavoni aka The Blue Base Holy Grail Pavoni



## jimbojohn55

On with the next - "a bit of blue" - the 1962 Pavoni with blue rubber base are rare....really rare! I spotted this one and knew that it was going to be along long time before I came across one as rare as this and in as good condition. Having tipped off a fellow forum member of its exsistence its with me for restoration

The second year of production they introduced the sight glass - (with a bolt stopper) - still no deep removable drip tray.

It is also distinguished by still having the blue rubber base - only on the 61 and 62 models up to serial no 2500

And a soldered in shower screen

the actual condition of this one is exceptional but for damage to the rubber base and paintwork - more of that later

for now here are a few pictures and a vid in the (next post)


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## jimbojohn55




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## lake_m

Really looking forward to this....it's like a new series of Harry Bosch!


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## jimbojohn55

Ive had a look into marketing of the machine at the time - and drawn a blank &#8230;.. well sort of as I came across this ahem, its funny how you never notice these things...


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## joey24dirt

Ahh and so it begins. Thanks for doing another so soon


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## jj-x-ray

huzzah


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## Hasi

Woooohoooooiii!!

Wow, impressed by its condition - have fun mate!!


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## Hasi

btw, here's some soundtrack...:


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## jimbojohn55

England 5:0 up at half time - think its safe to turn my attention else where while Panama show their appreciation of quality footballers by hugging Harry Kane at every chance.

My apologies the next few posts are picture heavy, but I wanted to show the subtle differences of the very early machines

First a quick test of the element - both worked - this will save a 4 month delay and sending it to Gabor in Hungary (quality elements if you need to get one done)

As the elements were working I took the chance to descale it with just 3 teaspoons of citric - it was that clean!

I should mention that running a machine of this age on the original wiring should be plugged into a circuit breaker and done with caution


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## jimbojohn55

And so on with the strip down - the sight glass is different to the later design it relys on a single bolt at the top placing pressure onto a rubber washer on a very thick sight glass then onto the lower washer - the metal glass protector is also a one piece design without joins.

The top bolt had a fibrous white seal - possibly string, possibly asbestos seal - I think this was a leak fix at some point in its history, anyway the gloves went on and it was scraped off.


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## jimbojohn55

The wiring is original and has some differences to the later 60,s models -

The end of the power flex wires have just been soldered and bent to shape - they also have a pice of white PVC as a heat shield! the exception is the earth wire which has a forked spade terminal - odd that the Pos and Neg don't

My plan is to reuse the wires in the base but replace the mains flex ( the black outer cover has started to crack )

The element is dated 62 which confirms the serial number on the group head


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## ashcroc

jimbojohn55 said:


> The wiring is original and has some differences to the later 60,s models -
> 
> The end of the power flex wires have just been soldered and bent to shape - they also have a pice of white PVC as a heat shield! the exception is the earth wire which has a forked spade terminal - odd that the Pos and Neg don't
> 
> My plan is to reuse the wires in the base but replace the mains flex ( the black outer cover has started to crack )
> 
> The element is dated 62 which confirms the serial number on the group head
> 
> View attachment 35099
> View attachment 35100
> View attachment 35101


Nothing wrong with just soldering the wires when clamping them down. That's how I was taught to wire a plug back in college!


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## hotmetal

Here we go folks, another pimp my Pav spectacular - popcorn time! I'm impressed that you're all clued up on serial numbers and model years, plus obscure European experts to call upon, well above and beyond the 'I've got tools, how hard can it be?' approach. Looking forward to seeing another bit of coffee history be rescued and appreciated.

___

Eat, drink and be merry


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## jimbojohn55

hotmetal said:


> Here we go folks, another pimp my Pav spectacular - popcorn time! I'm impressed that you're all clued up on serial numbers and model years, plus obscure European experts to call upon, well above and beyond the 'I've got tools, how hard can it be?' approach. Looking forward to seeing another bit of coffee history be rescued and appreciated.


a lot of the info is on Fransesco's site - along with serial numbers etc - interestingly Pavoni bought the design in 1960 - it was intialy produced by a couple of different companys fron 1958 onward (their versions also had blue rubber along with either a red or blue metallic base - click here then click on the "DP" and "Co-Fer" links - http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/m_cofer_eng.htm

DP link - http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/m_dp_eng.htm

Co - Fer http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/m_cofer_eng.htm

or even earlier 1958 - Nea Lux - http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/m_nealux_eng.htm


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## jimbojohn55

More disassembly - removing the switch maximo minimo plate reveals the original colour - standard silver hammerite.

Taking the element off with a three legged spanner shows the boiler flange to still have its original chrome all the way around - ive not seen this on pavs that are even 10 years old - The boiler to base lock ring is also immaculate with its plating intact. Im planning to reuse the 2 boiler to base gaskets after a little flatting down on some wet and dry as they are superior to any currently available.

a nice touch of these early models is that the base has in indentation to accommodate the boiler gasket on its top face - giving a neater finish.


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## jimbojohn55

With the base off the dispersion screen is visible and accessible - removing the grouphead seal shows it to be still quite flexible - its an odd size 48mm inner by 5mm wide by 7mm depth (squarish in section) - this one could easily be reusable but I will see if I can get a new one.

This machine has never been apart as its mint under the seal , ive added some penetrating oil overnight to hopefully loosen it up.

from the pictures you can see the soldered in shower screen that comes out with the group head liner.

Edit - I should say its not soldered in but has had a thin brass flange turned in over its edge to keep in place


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## jimbojohn55

Using the Acme patent ancient pav cylinder removal tool the liner came out without too much of a struggle. Interesting to note that the piston shaft is chrome plated - not seen that before - I suppose it makes sense as it gets a lot of ware and the chrome is more resilient than the brass underneath


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## Hasi

Was that a wooden mallet in an earlier life, by any chance?


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## jimbojohn55

Hasi said:


> Was that a wooden mallet in an earlier life, by any chance?


nope - that is a quality made from scratch skanky tool


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## ashcroc

jimbojohn55 said:


> nope - that is a quality made from scratch skanky tool


Which really needs some beeswax or oil putting on it. French polishing would Imo be a step too far but would give it a loverly shine.


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## jimbojohn55

Looking at the screen closely its made the same way and quality as a modern one from SS that you will find on most machines - certainly being fixed to the cylinder makes it tricky to remove but functionally its just the same as the later ones - it needed a quick buff of course

The ruff casting behind the thread has been sealed with a clear lacquer of some sort and is in good condition so im leaving that alone, the inside of the cylinder was ridge free so again just required a quick buff


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## jimbojohn55

At last something that needed replacing the circlip that holds the piston rod in place had corroded and rusted solid breaking up into several pieces and being a pain to remove with scribers and screwdrivers etc

The vented washer that holds the seal in place under the circlip is a bit thicker than a modern one and made from plated brass - might need to reuse this dependant on the thickness of the replacement seal.


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## jimbojohn55

The piston and shaft cleaned up nicely - this is the early type with the bulge on top and the 3 tiny holes around the top and bottom edge (not sure why but guess it to let some pressure or water through?)


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## jimbojohn55

stripped the hammerite with paint strippers to reveal that the beige primer visible under the base was also under the paint on top. This rather odd colour primer I recognised from my days 1990 - 95 trying to stop a British Leyland MGB reverting to iron oxide - its called Hammerite No1 rust beater (it didn't if your wondering) but its still available in Dark brown/ Beige and Grey - this beige is not present on the later models but was determined to stick to the metal despite the paint striper so I will reapply this muddy beige, maybe its ideal for alloy castings - now on order

While La Pav was stripping in the bunker I took the opportunity to (as Mrs jimbojohn55 was out) to give the boiler a cafizza bath in the kitchen sink. - the perfect crime as it cleans the sink and bowl at the same time.


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## Hasi

'the perfect crime'









Interesting that your paint stripper didn't work through the primer... I only encountered this when stripping (80s Rover) alloy wheels and thought it must've had to do with stove enamelling or other heat related reaction... could be the case for a LaPav base as well since they apparently tend to warm up together with the boiler.


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## jimbojohn55

In stripping the base paint back a bit more I came across a lot of casting surface defects that may explain why they went for a hammered paint finish - simply it covers them up

Also found that this base had a manufacturing defect from new it hadn't been ground flat - 1-1.5mm high spot at the rear curve of the base,but a quick go on the sanding disc sorted that out


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## Hasi

Jim on his better-than-new mission









Hasi on his wowed-over-and-over mission









But hey, manufacturing in the old days must have been fairly easy-going... fattoria dolce vita.


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## jimbojohn55

Mr King a classic - I was lucky enough to see him live at the Tower ballroom in Blackpool many years ago

a particular favourite that I very much cherish is Hummingbird


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## jimbojohn55

the perfect weather for priming a pav base


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## jimbojohn55

and then on with the paint &#8230;..and the bumps on the front are still showing - so back to sanding, priming then painting.


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## jj-x-ray

Do you think you can hide a casting imperfection? Fair dos I don't think I'd have been too bothered,but then I don't have your eye for detail or commitment


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## jimbojohn55

jj-x-ray said:


> Do you think you can hide a casting imperfection? Fair dos I don't think I'd have been too bothered,but then I don't have your eye for detail or commitment


Its just a little roughness on the surface, it sanded out easily. The problem is once you've spotted it you cant not notice it particularly as it sat on a curved corner so would always catch the light at some point, the imperfections of the base reflect rushed production or a sub contractor early quality control, the rest of the machine is so well made that it deserves to match the quality of the other components.

maybe as you get older you get more OCD about these things


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## Hasi

love the approach!

According to ye olde 80/20 rule you'll get to 80% completion in about 20% of total time. For the rest you need two things: steadiness and, well, time. Especially the latter, but maybe both are virtues of maturity









Every time I rushed it, I broke something... just saying...


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## coffeechap

jimbojohn55 said:


> maybe as you get older you get more OCD about these things


Oh dear how does Ronsil get out of bed!


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## jimbojohn55

So the pavs base had a number of coats of paint and is on a long dry process but looking good, the new seals are standing by so its time to start tackling the base.

The base is in remarkable condition apart from one edge which has been in the sun of next to a heat source for a while, the thing with natural rubber is you cant actually restore it much as it continues to degrade over time - True story Nasa cant stop their rubber parts of their 60,s space suit collection degrading.

when it looks like it does below you are talking more of replacing the missing and damaged rubber with something compatible that has the same colour and texture. You can sand through the crud as I have but the surface needs building up. In the meantime after sanding back the surface a little Ive rubbed in some pure Glycerol (boots cold cure isle 95p) to restore some flexability and gluing the cracks up with super glue.


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## jimbojohn55

Just a base update - if you like watching paint dry then hammarite is the paint for you, you would think the process speeds up in this weather but nope

also I was interested to see the thread on the portafilter was as new - no rust this is the first time ive seen this on any pav - this one must have just been driven to church on a sunday so to speak.


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## jimbojohn55

The sight glass tubes on the earliest pavs are sealed by compression of washers onto the ends of the tube rather than compression of a washer around them, technically both work fine but the early tubes are more sensitive to compression from the top nut. The early tubes as a result are made from a thicker 2.5mm wall thickness rather than the thinner current design. On close inspection a crack could be seen in the old tube going down the whole of its length, you cant get these thicker borosilicate glass tubes off the shelf so I commissioned 3 from Tuffnell glass on ebay, for a very reasonable £10 inc postage - why three well in case I find the breaking point on refitting then ive got 2 more chances !


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## Hasi

borosilicate glass is some hard stuff









unless there's internal tension/faulty production, you shouldn't be easily breaking it.

But following the rule of three is always a good idea


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## ashcroc

jimbojohn55 said:


> The sight glass tubes on the earliest pavs are sealed by compression of washers onto the ends of the tube rather than compression of a washer around them, technically both work fine but the early tubes are more sensitive to compression from the top nut. The early tubes as a result are made from a thicker 2.5mm wall thickness rather than the thinner current design. On close inspection a crack could be seen in the old tube going down the whole of its length, you cant get these thicker borosilicate glass tubes off the shelf so I commissioned 3 from Tuffnell glass on ebay, for a very reasonable £10 inc postage - why three well in case I find the breaking point on refitting then ive got 2 more chances !
> 
> View attachment 35416
> View attachment 35417
> View attachment 35418
> View attachment 35419


I feel I've fallen for this ruse of yours before.

Must say I look forward to seeing the pic of the 3 finished machines.


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## jimbojohn55

Ha - I wish I had three of the early ones - I can get another one but its not in as good condition by a long way. and would need a new element , a blue base casting etc and its out my reach at the moment till I sell one of finished ones.


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## Hasi

jimbojohn55 said:


> Ha - I wish I had three of the early ones - I can get another one but its not in as good condition by a long way. and would need a new element , a blue base casting etc and its out my reach at the moment till I sell one of finished ones.


(chanting) Jim-Bo! Jim-Bo! Bring it ooooon!!


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## jimbojohn55

Getting the right badge for this pav is tricky as a bit of digging around on @Francesco 's site reveals that the first couple of years they had a very thin printed aluminium badge that was stuck on - basically you cant get them anymore as they haven't been made since 1962 - so copying the image from fransesco's site and spending along time in various on line photo editing left me with a passable image that could be saved as a png file with a transparent background as below - this is being printed on line on a transparent vinyl which once applied to a thin aluminium disk should hopefully measure up to the original if not ive found a company that will print directly onto 30mm satin aluminium discs but at quite a cost - being a bit tight I will try the vinyl first haha















- the copy - ive got this as a png if anyone wants it


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## ashcroc

jimbojohn55 said:


> Getting the right badge for this pav is tricky as a bit of digging around on @Francesco 's site reveals that the first couple of years they had a very thin printed aluminium badge that was stuck on - basically you cant get them anymore as they haven't been made since 1962 - so copying the image from fransesco's site and spending along time in various on line photo editing left me with a passable image that could be saved as a png file with a transparent background as below - this is being printed on line on a transparent vinyl which once applied to a thin aluminium disk should hopefully measure up to the original if not ive found a company that will print directly onto 30mm satin aluminium discs but at quite a cost - being a bit tight I will try the vinyl first haha
> 
> View attachment 35509
> - the original
> View attachment 35511
> 
> 
> View attachment 35510
> - the copy - ive got this as a png if anyone wants it


Looking at that badge my first thought was getting a foil trophy center made up. Unfortunately all the bespoke ones I can find are printed on a sticker with a plastic dome over the top.


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## jimbojohn55

You can get the design in a clear dome effect, like the modern ones and then I suppose remove the clear dome but the lettering is slightly different - might be a fall back position


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## jimbojohn55

so the stickers have arrived - quality looks good - still need to mount it onto a thin 30mm alu disc but should look ok

and ive got a few...&#8230;


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## coffeechap

Looks fab


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## MildredM

jimbojohn55 said:


> so the stickers have arrived - quality looks good - still need to mount it onto a thin 30mm alu disc but should look ok
> 
> and ive got a few...&#8230;
> 
> View attachment 35610
> View attachment 35611


That works!


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## jimbojohn55

so with a grand investment of £1 three thin alu 30mm disks arrived from ebay (apparently to stick on phone cases to use with magnetic car mounts) no idea, however handy and the right size and thickness add the pav transparent sticker and on it goes - its not 100% accurate but close enough


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## Hasi

haha, terrific!

And so simple - love it









Were the original logos directly printed onto those discs?

I believe my solution would habe been to obtain negative masks from laser cut self-adhesive foil, stick onto disc, spray paint a thin layer, remove mask. A bit fiddly though... yours looks way easier and nobody would spot how it's done until maybe when poking their nose directly into the logo


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## Hasi

PS: don't forget to put it on a bit off axis... Italians don't care 100% either (and did even less 50 years ago)


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## Hasi

PS: don't forget to put it on a bit off axis... Italians don't care 100% either (and did even less 50 years ago)


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## jimbojohn55

Hasi said:


> haha, terrific!
> 
> And so simple - love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were the original logos directly printed onto those discs?
> 
> I believe my solution would habe been to obtain negative masks from laser cut self-adhesive foil, stick onto disc, spray paint a thin layer, remove mask. A bit fiddly though... yours looks way easier and nobody would spot how it's done until maybe when poking their nose directly into the logo


I think your right the originals were printed directly onto a disc using I think silver gray and red - ive looked into having 100 made up in this way but its something like £70 - The issue is with these early badges it that they are easily damaged or nocked off as the glue gets old, at least I have a few spares ;-)


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## jimbojohn55

play halted on the grail by recurring issues with the blue rubber base, on one edge the rubber had the consistency of a blue rocky road, having superglued, and super dooper evostick glued multiple fractures in it I could get it to a point where it was solid with out any cracks &#8230;.. until you flexed it a little and it started snapping in new places,

attempt 2 - glue up and give multiple coats with mat rubber spray - the sort yoofs use to make bits of their pimped up Corsa mat and well... rubbery

The finished effect is ok you can buy it in a mat blue that actually comes out slightly satin --- first flex of base and the cracks reappear Damn

attempt 3 - cast a new one - my previous attempts at this consisted of using polyurathane casting rubber with a pigment, this time ive switched to casting in a clear 2 part silicon that you can add pigment to - in this case a mix of the available dark blue and white so I can get the correct shade of blue. Ive switched to silicon as it has a greater life expectancy and is highly thermal resistant so fingers crossed - will give it a go tomorrow and report back


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## jimbojohn55

and its setting - little bit overfilled the mould, not 100% the blue is right may go darker on the next one, but it takes 9hrs to set - so at about 8-9 tonight if I don't post an update it will have gone wrong - the blue plastic board is a mould insert that forms the recess under the base like the originals.

Edit Liverpool just won 4-0 - this is a good omen


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## MildredM

^^^ fingers and toes crossed. I can't wait to see if it has worked!


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## jimbojohn55

Still curing, its on the way but the addition of the pigment or the lower temp of the bunker is slowing things down, will leave it overnight, its almost as fun as watching hammarite dry.


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## coffeechap

jimbojohn55 said:


> its almost as fun as watching hammarite dry.


Let's hope it doesn't take as long


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## jimbojohn55

This may take some time - I need to make a vacuum chamber to remove the air from the silicon mix, dang


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## AndyDClements

What about painting the first part of the silicone into the mould, then pour the rest? That way the bubbles may be hidden beneath the surface


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## MildredM

Bummer. What about a good knock on the worktop to dispel the air bubbles, or do they form while curing would you think?


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## Hasi

AndyDClements said:


> What about painting the first part of the silicone into the mould, then pour the rest? That way the bubbles may be hidden beneath the surface


This comes close to how they do closed surface roto-mould foam parts (e.g. in outdoor furniture production): first pour regular material, leave for a while and then pour with added foaming agent.

Like the idea!

Although maybe applying more than one layer might reinforce surface structure so you don't end up with cracked or crannied edges once the cover is removed again...


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## Hasi

MildredM said:


> Bummer. What about a good knock on the worktop to dispel the air bubbles, or do they form while curing would you think?


You'd probably need a pulsating panel to actively remove bubbles from a thick pour. Lab equipment usually, unaffordable for the general public


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## ashcroc

Hasi said:


> You'd probably need a pulsating panel to actively remove bubbles from a thick pour. Lab equipment usually, unaffordable for the general public


A 1/3 sheet sander clamped upside down in a vice might work to shake the bubbles out.


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## MildredM

ashcroc said:


> A 1/3 sheet sander clamped upside down in a vice might work to shake the bubbles out.


Or stick it in the boot of the car and drive round a few of the roads around here, that should do the trick!


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## Hasi

ashcroc said:


> A 1/3 sheet sander clamped upside down in a vice might work to shake the bubbles out.


they do that to concrete moulds (like staircases and stuff) for the finer details... just seen on YT


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## jimbojohn55

well it finally came out the mould...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. but was still a gooey mess on the surface that touched the pink silicon mould, and even after it came out it refused to dry WTF .

Ok so im no expert at casting silicon but a bit of research put me right - the mould silicon and the casting silicon were incompatible as was the release agent I used so after an hour of wiping half set blue goo off it with an assortment of rags and a whole kitchen roll it turned out the mould was fine and still usable so its back to casting with polyurathane rubber, im just waiting for the blue polyurathane pigments to arrive and have another go. its at times like these I reach for something dark and gothic to cheer me up - I know just the thing


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## Hasi

oh noes... chemistry strikes back









btw, here's some vids:











I like the second version better where the guy's using zip ties to fix a mounting pad - less destructive.


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## jimbojohn55

and the clocks ticking demould in 1hr - you only get about 5 mins workingtime with the polyrubber but at least it will set


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## MildredM

Everything crossed this time!


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## jimbojohn55

Tonight Mathew I am..... KING OF THE FEKKIN SMURFS !


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## Hasi

wohoooo 

[video=youtube;640Jv-yDm9M]


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## MildredM

jimbojohn55 said:


> tonight mathew i am..... King of the fekkin smurfs !
> 
> View attachment 36049
> View attachment 36050


yessssssss!!


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## jimbojohn55

A quick sand on the disc sander and trim and I'm happy with the result, its an exact copy of an original - hence the lumps and bumps, if glued on it would seal perfectly around the edge,

the indent in the base of the casting turned out to be quite important as it enables enough stretch to make it a snug fit


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## joey24dirt

You are the master! You could make a fortune from that cast you have


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## Nopapercup

You're attention to detail and execution is amazing Jim, well done.


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## Hasi

Wow, this is so fresh









Congratulations, simply superb!

Do you keep final mixture and materials a secret now? (Or did I overlook...)

Still can't believe that they did those funky colours decades ago. And stopped...









Even today's LaPavs could use a little hue, I say they miss out a darn cool opportunity.


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## jj-x-ray

I can't see the pics....but sounds like a win. Congrats


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## lake_m

jimbojohn55 said:


> well it finally came out the mould...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. but was still a gooey mess on the surface that touched the pink silicon mould, and even after it came out it refused to dry WTF .
> 
> Ok so im no expert at casting silicon but a bit of research put me right - the mould silicon and the casting silicon were incompatible as was the release agent I used so after an hour of wiping half set blue goo off it with an assortment of rags and a whole kitchen roll it turned out the mould was fine and still usable so its back to casting with polyurathane rubber, im just waiting for the blue polyurathane pigments to arrive and have another go. its at times like these I reach for something dark and gothic to cheer me up - I know just the thing


Class! I still have the 12" of this and a moth-eaten T shirt with it on.


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## jimbojohn55

So all the bits lined up yesterday, I had already assembled the new sight glass as it was a tricky compression fitting using the bolt to provide the pressure from above to sandwich the glass between two washers.







my aim was to reuse some of the original solid core wire (red and Yellow) which was in good nick then replace the flex which had perished


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## jimbojohn55

The piston goes into the cylinder sleeve then fitted screwed into the group head with new seals all round


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## jimbojohn55

next on with the old wiring (yellow and red ) added a new flex with soldered ends to match the original - I took the liberty of adding heat proof sleeve for safety, Interestingly the early 61 /62 models didnt have a knotted cord to prevent it being pulled out of the machine but instead relied on a very tight fit through the grommet to keep things in place, I will add a bit of discrete glue once its up and running.


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## jimbojohn55

so first fill up and what happens - leak straightaway from the glass tube joints, I had reused the old washers as they were still in good nick but theywere too compressed, booo. still a quick trip to screwfix and it turns out that thin 13mm washers are a thing used only on garden stop taps ?- perfect size - 13mm =1/2" so they fit anyway


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## jimbojohn55

a quick before shot from the start of this project great chrome, missing badge, rubber base crumbling on one side, discoloured chipped paint, old seals, fractured sight glass.


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## jimbojohn55

and the finished item


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## Potts

Pull a shot!


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## joey24dirt

Absolutely stunning!!! This is my favourite one so far. That blue base is great....and the rest is so flipping shiny. Love it!


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## Syenitic

I still have a PM Pav in bits. You have now re-juvinated 3 in the time it took me to try a funky paint finish on the base of mine. You got me thinking of getting things moving again, and your faithful to original has made me think twice about my thoughts. Well done Jim...inspirational is the only word needed.


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## Nopapercup

Beautiful! Your restorations are a work of art.


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## coffeechap

Your nicest thus far, what's next on the horizon


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## Hasi

Incredible!

Astonishing!

Admirable!

Out of curiosity, was there a particular reason for the blue colour scheme back then?


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## lake_m

A joy to have observed. A master restorer indeed.


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## slamm

Fabulous result yet again Jimbo, there's no stopping you! Love that blue base, it looks like it was a real pain to get right but it was clearly so worth the effort, really sets off the whole machine so well.

If I ever get an earlier machine I would want one of your blue bases on it wether correct or not, it just looks so good!


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## jimbojohn55

Hasi said:


> Incredible!
> 
> Astonishing!
> 
> Admirable!
> 
> Out of curiosity, was there a particular reason for the blue colour scheme back then?


in 1958 the design was first developed by another company! called Neo Lux this small company first produced the design with either a Red or Green hammered metallic paint on the base, Im not sure but I believe that the blue rubber was designed to go with these colourful bases.

The design was manufactured a year or so later by another company called Co-fer then pavoni bought the rights in 1960-61 and being the big player that it was brought it to the mass market around the world as it recognised that the design was a perfect domestic espresso machine that they wouldn't better.

Again my theory is that Pavoni just carried on buying the parts from the subcontractors for a few years till the thing took off and they scaled up production.

@Francesco has the info of his great site - http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/m_nealux_eng.htm


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## mmmatron

What a pleasure to see this come back to life. Love the blue base.


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## jimbojohn55

coffeechap said:


> Your nicest thus far, what's next on the horizon


might look at something larger from France!


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## jj-x-ray

Anyone else having troubles viewing the pics on Tapatalk? I can see photos in other parts of the forum like 'what the postie' but not these.

Don't know whether it's a size or image type thing...

I haven't tried the desktop site yet though.


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## Hasi

jj-x-ray said:


> Anyone else having troubles viewing the pics on Tapatalk? I can see photos in other parts of the forum like 'what the postie' but not these.
> 
> Don't know whether it's a size or image type thing...
> 
> I haven't tried the desktop site yet though.


you can click a post and select [more] then hit [web view] (or similar) and it will take you to the desktop site within tapatalk. Maybe this helps?


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## jj-x-ray

just waited till i got home to read it on a non-mobile device..

amazing job again jimbo. blue base looks great against the chrome and hammerite base.....should be standard


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## ashcroc

jj-x-ray said:


> Anyone else having troubles viewing the pics on Tapatalk? I can see photos in other parts of the forum like 'what the postie' but not these.
> 
> Don't know whether it's a size or image type thing...
> 
> I haven't tried the desktop site yet though.


Been having that on a few threads since the server change I think. The photo loading seems to havg at 5%.


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## jimbojohn55

Just a couple of quick vids to better show the pav plus an extraction with a naked basket.


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## jbg

Absolutely awesome. You are an artist


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## filthynines

Just come across this thread. It was really really interesting to see all of the progress. Well done, that's some fantastic work you've done there!


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