# Shock horror, Photos of another Naked Royal!!



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Following on from my first post about striping a royal and the possible law suits, i decide to get cracking.

first remove the Doser this was on a simple connector, then i had to remove the bottom plate, this is pretty simple, unscrew the 4 feet and one security torx bolt (on mine anyway) this gave access to the wiring, you have to unwire the front power light = 2 purple wires making a note of where they came from, and the two red wires from the safety microswitch, once this is done remove the timer unit by taking the knob off and undoing the two screws. now apart from the mains connection and the motor wires the bottom plate is free,. move this to one side so you can see the 5 x 4mm allen bolts holding the inner mounting plate to the outer casing.

i used a bolt through the spare one in the inner plate and followed what i would imagine is the factory assembly procedure as by lifting by the central bolt it kept the weight nice and balanced



















*this is what you get left with*










*you now have a ver empy shell*

Here you can see where its just an O-ring that keeps it in at the neck of the body so its really easy to pull apart


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Now the noisy bit if you want to fit new bearings? you have 3 x 6mm allen blots that hold the top bearing/burr housing once these have been removed and the top bering knocked out of the shaft the rest comes apart very easy, but it is important to put a bolt back in the drive shaft before you start knocking the shaft out as i used a good quality 8,8 grade machine bolt to keep the threads protected, dont used a cheep one. the rest is pretty self explanatory as the bottom bearing just knocks out of the casing on the shaft, i am glad i have pulled it apart this far as while its all Ok there is some surface water damage where its been left outside or in a damp shed fro a while.










i have added all these picks to an album with short descriptions but if anyone want to know more on how get a royal naked let me know


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

It doesn't look too difficult to strip down - I'm really tempted to paint mine now! Thinking either a matt black or a gloss white. Hmmmm...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

it only took me about 2 hours from start to finish, and my casing is all ready at the powder coaters, its being done in a very dark metallic plumb, £40 all in including the cleaning & coating.

I can post more pics of the strip down if needed if I delete some of my earlier stuff as im at my pic


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

That's a really good price - I might call around a few places. I was going to spray it myself but if a powder coat is that cheap then there's no reason not to. Did you fill the dents and dings first?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

While it looked like it had been dragged down the road a few times there were no dents or dings in the casing only paintwork scuffed to hell, and by the time its shot blasted and powder coated all the minor imperfections will have gone.

It should be back from the coaters end of this week beginning of next so I will post pics once its done.

Oh if you do fancy stripping yours and want to do the bearings they are 6204RS2 = 20x47x14 double rubber seal type. I have gone for Koyo, but INA or NSK are fine to, I got a pair for £10 delivered.

So by the time I have put new burrs in as well it will have cost me about £130 including the grinder, but I still fancy making a funnel to replace the hopper then put a momentary switch on the side to replace the doser level switch.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

I had my Royal apart to modify the electronics, was scared to touch anything else. I quite fancy new barings and a paint job. Possibly some new burrs, mines been getting a hammering recently!

30-40 quid seems par for the course for a shot blast/ acid bath and powder coat.

The full interior strip looks a little industrial for my skills tho


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Gary if you have had yours apart for the electronics then your half way there, once you have the bottom cast iron plate of then you only need to remove the microswitch & power light wires and your good to go, the best way I found was to suspend it upside down (bit of rope or ratchet strap) then slowly lower the case off it, the case only weighs about 2kg if that, the motor is where all the mass is, about 17kg I just did it over a work bench in case it slipped off. But once the O-ring was free of the neck is was very easy to just slide the case over, you could do it the other way by removing the 5 x 4mm Allen bolts and lifting the casing up, but you would need to make some sort of support for the inner plate slightly higher than the space in the case so it sat flat, but a bit less scary. I may put mine back together this way.

PS as anyone got a wiring diagram for one of these by the way? I want to use a momentary push button or use a self built timer. As I think the doser is getting replaced with a stainless funnel.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

ok cheers, i might give it a go...if i can bare to be without espresso!


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

I'm going to have a look and see if there are any dents that would need to be filled then I might try and get this sorted this weekend. I'm not brewing espresso at the moment (no machine) so it's the perfect time to get it done. I also need to choose a colour. If I'm getting it powdercoated I might choose something a bit more exotic!

If I did fill any dents how would that work with the powdercoating process? I know it happens at a high temp but I'm not sure if there are any fillers etc that are recommended for this kind of thing.


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Hi Luke

From what i can remember from years ago, the temps required for powder coating exclude most normal fillers, around 200 deg C your best bet is to ask the company that is going to do the coating do they have anything that may work as they may want to shot blast all the old paint of first, they can apply a pretty thick coat of powder and when it goes through its liquid phase will cover small blemishes anyway and once you have the case of you should be able to knock any small dings out from the inside. i will post pics of mine when i get i back.


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Just a quick update, had a spare bit of time this afternoon and the main mechanics of the grinder are now back together, new bearings and a bloody good clean, and it turns very smoothly now.

Few quick notes on reassembly, first the bearings were a good fit on both the shaft and the housing so it very important to used the right size drift, the lower bearing was fitted to the main shaft first then the whole shaft assembly was drifted back into the housing, the top bearing was put in after assembling the top bearing carrier/burr but only drifted the inner race of the bearing, when refitting, secondly most of the screws are Philips No2 not Pozi drive, if you use a pozi drive on them they will round of. the last thing was putting a line wit ha felt marker on the shaft, inline with the roll-pin in the top of the drive shaft and doing the same with the lower burr carrier made assembly a lot easier as you cant see them as they go together and if they dont line up as you re asseble it may damage the carrier.

just waiting for its new clothes and a shinny new hopper/chute with a bit of rewiring for a momentary switch.


----------



## Earlepap (Jan 8, 2012)

Have to say I'm very impressed. I struggled to change burrs on my grinder, if I attempted anything like this I'd most likely electrocute myself. I reckon you should leave it with the case off, it looks cool - like an early R2D2.

Dibs on your MC2.


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

would love to keep it naked/open but owing to the amount of rotating fan blades & live wires plus i can be a bit dozy until i have had my first coffee, not a good combination!!

Just returned from a friends fabrication company, one to get some blind filter baskets punched out and secondly to se him about making a funnel /chute replacement for the doser, this will include a plate to cover the lower part of the opening in the grinder case and a little L bracket to fix it to the body, similar to the way the doserless units are made. it would have a small square button housing on the top right of the funnel to house push button switch.

i can ask him to make me a few rather than just mine so if anyone else is interested let me know, it wont be for a week or more before i know the price as he's fitting out a new restaurant in london this week.


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

If you can give me an idea of price I might be interested. As you might have realised I'm going to be a bit cash-strapped for a while!

I had a good look over my Royal and I don't think there's any issues with the case other than heavy paint scratching so powder coating would be fine.

I didn't understand half the words in your reassembly post so I think the bearing change might be beyond me for the moment ?


----------



## beebah (Apr 1, 2012)

would that also fit a super jolly? If it would then I'd also be interested, depending on price, obviously. Thankyou for posting pics of your naked grinder - its fascinating to see what goes on underneath!


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

How is it looking after powder coating? We want pics! Also - what material is the casing? I want to get a quote from a nearby powder coater.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Hi Luke

The outer body is pressure die-cast aluminum. ask him if he's going to dip it or shot blast it to clean it, if he's going to shot blast it, buy some cheep & cheerful bolts to put in all the threads to protect them.

Im still waiting for the body to have its final coat, should be able to pick it up this week, will post when done.


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Ronnie's new clothes

















Luke & Gary the Powder coater did say that while they were cleaning it they found a few small bits of filler in the body, and one of them was a casting fault, but in a pressure die cast of this size/material a few small occlusions are to be expected. the big one on the bottom is on the casing wall inside & out, most of the surface imperfections have been covered by the coating but not all, but it still looks really good, the colour is Deep Metallic Violet. its a bit more Plumb/red than in the pic and is going to look quite good when all back together.

you could get the casing painted, you would get a perfect finish but it would be more expensive and not as durable

just the new doserless hopper and push button mods to do.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

I think my Roy needs new clothes ! Nice.

Thinking matt white, or matt slate-grey. The crazy part of me wants gloss lime-green!


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Lime Green


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Is the beast back together yet?


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

No







i was going to put it back together the last few evenings but i have someone viewing my house so that's taken priority. Io also need to make up a new loom to replace the Doser loom and top & bottom micro switch, but have to work out the best way to toggle the on and of switching to the contactor via a push button switch.


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

Meant to reply yesterday - looks lovely! Not a colour I would go for but the finish is really nice. Gary - a matt white would look really nice but a matt finish might pick up coffee grounds/stains/marks easily. I suppose a powder coat is pretty durable and wipe clean, but a gloss finish might be less maintenance!


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

lookseehear said:


> Meant to reply yesterday - looks lovely! Not a colour I would go for but the finish is really nice. Gary - a matt white would look really nice but a matt finish might pick up coffee grounds/stains/marks easily. I suppose a powder coat is pretty durable and wipe clean, but a gloss finish might be less maintenance!


Im thinking a matt top coat / varnish. But im scared to take it apart right now. Its a big project and we have loads to do on the house and garden yet which are higher priority


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Thinking about this Rob , this could be a money spinner for you and possibly a help to forum members on here with Royals, Roburs etc who arent prepared to get their hands dirty.

Coffeehit charge over 200 quid (I think transport is extra). Knowing how to strip and rebuild , which barings to get and a reliable powdercoater..you could offer a service here ; )


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

I stripped down my Royal a bit more yesterday for cleaning purposes - took the top burr out but the bottom one wouldn't budge so I removed the bottom burr carrier using three long bolts tightening them a turn each until it lifted off - quite a long process! There was so much crap underneath I'm really glad I did it. Also revealing the bearing underneath I think that mine doesn't need replacing yet, it's still running smooth and looks in good condition.

Getting the burr carrier back on wasn't much fun either - I ended up using a wooden rolling pin and a hammer to push it down until I could use the centre bolt to do the rest.

Today's job is to try and get the plastic lens out of the doser - some numpty glued it in. I'm going to try and dissolve the glue with some nail varnish remover (not mine!) and if that doesn't work I'll have to try more 'persuasive' methods like a hammer. I wouldn't mind so much but there's a load of coffee gunk trapped behind it which I'd like to get out.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

lookseehear said:


> Today's job is to try and get the plastic lens out of the doser - some numpty glued it in. I'm going to try and dissolve the glue with some nail varnish remover (not mine!) and if that doesn't work I'll have to try more 'persuasive' methods like a hammer. I wouldn't mind so much but there's a load of coffee gunk trapped behind it which I'd like to get out.


I had a similar issue. This was the hardest job. Took me a couple of hours of forearm-strength-testing, olive oil and a screwdriver!

Such a relief when it finally came out, I danced around the room doing simpsons ''haaa hah'' at the inanimate perpex


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Luke you know that the nail varnish removers yours really but don't worry we wont tell anyone







i would be careful as some plastics don't react kindly to acetone, i have go hold of some 60mm acrylic tubing to make a mini hopper up for Purple ronny, but thanks to Mazzer using oddball sizing it will require a small amount of felt to stop it rattling as the hopper hole is 61mm!! going to make a hopper about 150mm long so i can load it with a reasonable amount of beens in for brew grinding. i have a bit 500mm long so if anyone else would like some let me know.

The Burr carriers are not the best design i have ever seen as there are little gaps for coffee to get into between the burrs and the carrier, i am very tempted to use some felt wadding as a gasket/seal ring to keep the grinds out.

Have now worked out the wiring and to make a push button work its quite simple, you need to put a switch from the main positive feed strait on to the A1 terminal on the contractor, as we sat and worked out the wiring over a cup of tea!! and most of it is overkill unless its the three phase version but you can leave all the old wiring in.

i am hoping to get my hopper made up this week so it may be back together some time very soon









Gary i have thought about offering the striping and rebuilding of these as a side line but until i have sold my house all bets are off.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

RobD said:


> Gary i have thought about offering the striping and rebuilding of these as a side line but until i have sold my house all bets are off.


Top of the queue please if it ever happens !!! ; )


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Quick update on rebuild and coating VR's painting.

i have just finished assembling ronny back together and while doing so noticed that the coating is not quite as robust as i had hoped as the heavy iron base chipped it just resting against it, its only on the inside but still not a good omen for longevity. it could just be that as its a very high gloss finish its not as strong as a normal coating. also i did ask the powder coater if he wanted some sacrificial bolts for all the thread holes while it was being blasted & coated, he said it would be fine!! well after an hour of re tapping all the threads i think he may have been a bit misguided







so my conclusion is that if you could get the body painted in a good quality 2 pack modern car type paint it would be just as strong and give you far more colour choices also would allow the body to have all the minor casting imperfections filled unlike coating giving a better final result.









just waiting for its new hopper and push button wiring


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

BUMP How is the refurb going?


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Hi Gary

As you probably can tell from my other post about getting a batch of doserless funnels made thats my main sticking point, my friend was going to make me one over the last few weeks but a very important restaurant refit has over run. everything else including all the wring is Ok and i have given it a quick blast, the one thing i have noticed is how smoothly it runs with the new bearings, you can barely hear it running, it just hums from the motor induction but no mechanical noise at all







very happy with it just want a new hopper and don't want to fit the old one back on.


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Id love to see (well hear) a video of yours running. Im not sure mine is as quiet as it was when I first got it


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

Today I have been trying (in vain) to take the paint off my Royal. I took bits off like the hopper, on switch, forks and power light and I've now realised after re-reading your first post that I may as well have removed the casing - would have been a lot easier.

I'm going to buy/borrow and electric sander then give it another go next weekend I think. Still not decided on a colour but thinking maybe a light blue. I'm still tempted by a matt white or black so I'll have to try and make my mind up.

That said I'm quite happy doing this in stages and stripping the casing then using it 'naked' for a while until I have time to do a proper job of the painting.


----------



## RobD (May 2, 2012)

Well if its any consolation I still haven't got mine up and running as I couldn't justify the £300 tooling to get some aluminum funnels made and my friends Fabrication company is still busy doing café refurbs so its still without a funnel as I have refused to pay Mazzer £175 for something I know only costs £50 max to make.

May end having to buy a mazzer one as it can sit idle for much longer.

If you aren't enjoying sanding it, just take the case off and get it bead blasted as it's a lot more gentle on the aluminum than shot blasting.


----------



## lookseehear (Jul 16, 2010)

A bit of an update - my royal is almost paint free! I would definitely advise going for the bead blasting if you're thinking about doing this, as you can't get to all of it with an electric sander and the primer is pretty thick in places!

I've still not decided what colour to paint it so I can't do much more without making my mind up!



















The most awkward bit:


----------



## garydyke1 (Mar 9, 2011)

Ipod Matt white or gloss lime green


----------

