# Help please: painting grinders?



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

I've got a mazzer with dodgy paint. Do I need to strip it all off and start again or can I rough it up and prime / paint over it. Total novice to paint!

All advice very much appreciated.

J


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

You can just get it smooth by sanding down and then repaint.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> You can just get it smooth by sanding down and then repaint.


Cool. Thanks. Do I need to prime if there's already paint there or can I jump straight to paint?

Also - do you know - IF I do any filing of anything will I need to prime over that filler?

Many thanks!


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## Dylan (Dec 5, 2011)

Not sure on that front, I'm sure someone will know.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Dylan said:


> Not sure on that front, I'm sure someone will know.


Cool no worries. Thanks anyway.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Google: P38 can be over-painted with most types of paint including 2K. Ideally a primer is recommended prior to painting.

Sorted!


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## jimbojohn55 (Jan 15, 2016)

My personal pref for an "as new" look would be

1 strip back to bare metal - will require full strip down - use flap wheel in a drill or chemical stripper

2 sand out any dings 800 grit wet and dry, or fill with P38 or similar filler

3 wipe down with meths to remove any grease or finger prints

4 Spray with Etch Primer (Halfords) will actually bond to the surface - its essential for painting anything alloy or aluminium or paint will fall off and flake in time

5 Spray 3 top coats of silver or any colour you like to match kitchen or espresso machine ;-)

6 optional - apply clear top coat - this will make it a gloss or semi gloss finish

7 Take photos of process and post on here inc before and after

8 Feel smug

9 Work way through rest of kitchen then spraying domestic appliances

10 Notice concerned looks and comments from family members (keep eye out for men in white coats)

11 Come to terms with being an eccentric - a great British tradition - Huzzzah - start to feel some sympathy for train spotters and steam engine enthusiasts, watch documentaries on history chanel , choose trousers for comfort over style.

Or alternatively just spray it with a can of silver


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## Grahamg (Oct 24, 2013)

I thought most were just stripping them down . And getting them powder coated. Fair play if you can be bothered to diy!


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

Grahamg said:


> I thought most were just stripping them down . And getting them powder coated. Fair play if you can be bothered to diy!


Can't easily remove/reinstall the motor on a Major it seems. Otherwise I would!


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## MSM (Mar 12, 2015)

I will also look at doing this (in the summer) as my super jolly has a few chips in the paintwork but nothing 'major'.

Would be good to see your progress JonC


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

jimbojohn55 said:


> My personal pref for an "as new" look would be
> 
> 1 strip back to bare metal - will require full strip down - use flap wheel in a drill or chemical stripper
> 
> ...


Great guide. Thanks.

Point 11 I have covered - 1-10 may take a little time.

P.s. M+S do trousers with an active waistband - very useful.


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## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

MSM said:


> I will also look at doing this (in the summer) as my super jolly has a few chips in the paintwork but nothing 'major'.
> 
> Would be good to see your progress JonC


I suspect it'll be slow and never ending. Or fast and disappointing.


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## Andy__C (Nov 4, 2015)

I did a restore project, first time with a grider, on an SJ back in the autumn.

Mine was pretty beat externally but in decent condition internally. If its not already obvious its worth a full strip of the doser and burrs etc anyway and a clean/soak in pully caff as something to do in between coats.

I sanded all the paint and a lot of the primer off, but not fully to bare metal, just so I was happy with the finish. I thenetch primered, filler primered (3 coats), 3 coats of paint and two coats of laquer... with some sanding in between coats but very little. I'm very happy with how its come out.

Its not a quick process and its worth leaving 24hrs between all coats if you are sanding in between... there's nowt worse than sanding something that isn't dried properly and ruining the finish by scuffing/peeling semi-dried primer.

For me its worth having some sort of clear coat over the top to help with any knocks and dings in use afterwards, I've got one or two already! There are some great threads on all this in the mazzer grinder section.


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