# HELP - how to plumb in espresso machine?



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

So we have a new kitchen planned for 3 weeks time. I currently have a modded Gaggia classic but have intentions on a Rocket when finances recover.

It just occurred that, with stone worktops planned, I have this one opportunity to future-proof this and plan for an upgrade to a plumbed in machine.

Please could anyone explain what prep / pipes I need to run for a plumbed system?

Any photos behind machines would be greatly appreciated so I can understand how others have managed this.

We live in a hard-water area. Does an in-line filter go under the counter or behind the machine?

Thanks!


----------



## Jon (Dec 3, 2010)

rob177palmer said:


> So we have a new kitchen planned for 3 weeks time. I currently have a modded Gaggia classic but have intentions on a Rocket when finances recover.
> 
> It just occurred that, with stone worktops planned, I have this one opportunity to future-proof this and plan for an upgrade to a plumbed in machine.
> 
> ...


Not an expert but I expect you need a washing machine style outlet to connect a pipe to which would go to an accessible undercounter filter from which a hose would come through a beautifully round hole at the back of a worktop into the machine.

Wouldn't expect to put the filter behind the machine as that'll likely lose valuable worktop space whereas there's bound to be some accessible dead space in a cupboard below.


----------



## Rom (Jan 20, 2017)

You machine will come with the stainless flexi hose that gives you the option to 'Plumb In' All the pipe work/ Filter/ pressure reg etc will be hidden under the worktop (apart from the flexi that connects to your machine) so no worries as long as you have some room. It will obviously be easier if your machine is close to a cold water feed. If you are 100% sure where you machine will be just get them to put a hole through the worktop that will allow the flexi hose to pass through. The hose with my ECM machine needs a 15mm hole but perhaps someone with a Rocket can confirm what size is required by that particular machine. You can also plum the drip tray as well, will you be doing this?


----------



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

I can run cold to wherever I need, but more concern is clear and open undercounter space as we have largely gone for drawers. There is a small cupboard near to my preferred coffee machine location, so maybe a filter could sit in there.

Could someone also take a photo of the hidden gubbins please?

Thanks


----------



## Rom (Jan 20, 2017)




----------



## Rom (Jan 20, 2017)

I'm not saying your install (or mine) will be exactly like this but it gives you an idea


----------



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

Thanks @Rom - that is really helpful.

I need to consider waste out, but could just stick with emptying drip tray. Cheers mate.


----------



## Rom (Jan 20, 2017)

Im not bothering with plumbing out but if I was having stone worktop fitted I might get an extra hole put in just in case


----------



## kennyboy993 (Jan 23, 2017)

Nice installation Rom - how come you've got 2 filters?


----------



## espressotechno (Apr 11, 2011)

If you use microbore plastic tubing, with JG push-fit connectors, only a small 10mm hole would be needed in the worktop. Microbore tubing can be run "for miles" & round corners easily.

The Rocket will have a 3/8" BSP male connector at the back & may come with a length of braided steel hose (3/8 x 3/8 or 3/8 x 3/4 ends).

But microbore tubing + a 3/8"bsp female connector works well. JG push-fit connectors are available to fit any filter cartridge system you decide on:Your cartridge supplier may be able to include them...

PS Fit several in-line shutoff taps - saves hassles later !


----------



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

I am nervous drilling a hole at the outset in case location changes a bit!

There will be a service void behind the units, so I am wondering about drilling the worktop and the back of the cupboard when location is sorted. Hoping it would then be possible to use a semi-rigid but flexible "mouse" to guide plastic tubing between the two.


----------



## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

rob177palmer said:


> I am nervous drilling a hole at the outset in case location changes a bit!
> 
> There will be a service void behind the units, so I am wondering about drilling the worktop and the back of the cupboard when location is sorted. Hoping it would then be possible to use a semi-rigid but flexible "mouse" to guide plastic tubing between the two.


My first thought, when I read this, was 'don't do it'! Trying to get the hole in exactly the right place before the worktop has been fitted and the bits and bobs are in position in the kitchen can be difficult. Then I thought a bit more . . . We had 3 holes cut in our Silestone tops before they were fitted for electric items (toaster, kettle, coffee machine). They are finished off with a brushed aluminium plate and look pretty neat. Two ended up not quite in the right place, the coffee machine being one of them, only by a few cm's but it's annoying as I dictates exactly where the machine has to be (if I want to move it a couple of cm's to the left, for example, I have to go more so the little feet are level and not on top of the plate.

Having said all that that I am glad we have them. The sockets are under the worktop and accessible from the cupboard with long arms (and my small-ish hand fits through the hole anyway). These are appliances that once we've plugged them in that's it until we get upgrade-itus!

Maybe it would be better to have a hole/holes big enough for plugs to go through for hidden sockets as well as using them for the pipe to your machine, rather than a small hole that may not be exactly in the right place.

A different matter if you can drill it afterwards, of course


----------



## funinacup (Aug 30, 2010)

MildredM said:


> My first thought, when I read this, was 'don't do it'! Trying to get the hole in exactly the right place before the worktop has been fitted and the bits and bobs are in position in the kitchen can be difficult. Then I thought a bit more . . . We had 3 holes cut in our Silestone tops before they were fitted for electric items (toaster, kettle, coffee machine). They are finished off with a brushed aluminium plate and look pretty neat. Two ended up not quite in the right place, the coffee machine being one of them, only by a few cm's but it's annoying as I dictates exactly where the machine has to be (if I want to move it a couple of cm's to the left, for example, I have to go more so the little feet are level and not on top of the plate.
> 
> Having said all that that I am glad we have them. The sockets are under the worktop and accessible from the cupboard with long arms (and my small-ish hand fits through the hole anyway). These are appliances that once we've plugged them in that's it until we get upgrade-itus!
> 
> ...


Any pics of the plates you speak of? Sounds like a neat solution.


----------



## grumpydaddy (Oct 20, 2014)

There is an alternate way of setting up but it requires the worktop to be machined from the outset. I you cut a rebate of say 30-40mm and maybe about 300 wide with nice round internal corners in the rear edge of the worktop then any wiring/pipework can use it to get below the worktop level so that goes for your grinder(s) too. The wide slot makes it less obvious if you want to move any machine a bit.

I have a Corain worktop done this way at work which is currently being remodeled to fit its new home.


----------



## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

I will take some photos tomorrow


----------



## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Here you go! The bit where the cable passes through has 'bristles' that sort of fill in round the cable. The socket is fixed to the back of the cupboard. The photo is of the socket at the rear of a pull-out 'drawer', it's the whole size of a cupboard.


----------



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

Thanks everyone for the comments and photos. At least I now understand the basics of how the install could be laid out.

Some neat solutions. I like the idea of sockets in cupboards for machines that will be permanently sat there - saves installing the usual bank of sockets above the worktops.

I'll speak to the supplier about options to have holes / rebates pre-drilled or added afterwards.


----------



## rob177palmer (Feb 14, 2017)

...:and obviously i need to show the wife which I eventually have my eye on for us


----------



## Pedro083 (Nov 16, 2011)

I would do a pop up socket arrangement. They can be dropped back down with the appliances plugged in but means you don't need to clamber under a cupboard every time you want too turn it off. Also if you move the machine you don't have a pointless hole.


----------



## CardinalBiggles (Apr 24, 2017)

MildredM said:


> Here you go! The bit where the cable passes through has 'bristles' that sort of fill in round the cable. The socket is fixed to the back of the cupboard. The photo is of the socket at the rear of a pull-out 'drawer', it's the whole size of a cupboard.


It's like the cable management fittings for a desk top...... but nicer!


----------



## 4085 (Nov 23, 2012)

rob177palmer said:


> ...:and obviously i need to show the wife which I eventually have my eye on for us


Just tell her thats the way the kitchen comes, with holes drilled in just in case


----------



## Rom (Jan 20, 2017)

kennyboy993 said:


> Nice installation Rom - how come you've got 2 filters?


sorry, I only just seen this post. It isn't my installation it was sent to me when I was asking questions about an install


----------



## El carajillo (Mar 16, 2013)

Although there is a void at the back of the units it is not continuous along the back, the sides of each unit usually run right back to the wall.

Holes in stone / granite worktops must not be close to the edge or each other.

Corrian worktops are more machinable than stone / granite.

If you run a waste pipe use 20mm overflow pipe running to a fall rather than the convoluted pipe.

I think you will find any electrical appliances connected to water require an isolator fitted above the worktop, check Elec/ Regs to be sure.

When units are fitted it is possible to gain access by removing the plinths ( clip on) and feeding along the floor.


----------



## Deansie26 (Jan 16, 2017)

Thanks Mildred! We're getting the kitchen done this week and that will look far nicer than a hole in the work top.


----------



## MildredM (Feb 13, 2017)

Deansie26 said:


> Thanks Mildred! We're getting the kitchen done this week and that will look far nicer than a hole in the work top.


Oooh! Good luck with your kitchen work


----------

