# Gaggia e90 for home use



## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

[IMG alt="" data-src=""]https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png[/IMG]Hi everyone. This is my first post. I've already got two penalty points for trying to sell something before having posted 15 posts. Oops. 
I will probably rack up a few more by the time I get the hang of things (yes I did read the rules, obviously not retaining info as well as I would like ?).

Anyway. I have just got hold of an early Gaggia e90. This is the realisation of a long held ambition for me. 
Here it is (along with my daily driver ?):









[IMG alt="" data-src=""]https://www.coffeeforums.co.uk/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png[/IMG]

The machine is 5000w 3 phase, totally unsuitable for my home use.

BUT........

I also have, surplus to requirements 2 x Kitchenaid Artisan Espresso Machines (the ones I got the penalty points for, trying to sell before 15 postings). ?









SO.........., and here is the reason I am telling you all this, my plan is to carefully remove the group heads, some electrics and piping, from the e90, leaving the 16 litre boiler to use as a water tank.








Remove the boiler/group head units from the Kitchenaid espresso machines and install them where the e90 group heads were located. Install the 2 Ulka pumps between the old boiler tank (now water tank) and the new group heads.

Theres 7.5 inches clearance from the bottom of the e90 group head to the warming/drip tray and 6.5 inches depth from the e90 backsplash/front cover to the front of the group heads.

I will attach some photos to illustrate further.

















Allow me to preempt the obvious question of WHY????????

1) I just want to & I can. (Too long in lockdown?)

2) Economy of running costs. 5kw 3 phase as opposed to 1.1kw using 1 group, 2.2 for 2 etc.

3) Convenience. No need for bulky external pump, softener additional 3 phase wiring & switch etc.

4) Speed. The Gaggia boilers in the Kitchenaid heat up very quickly indeed. They're the best thing about the machines.

I could make up some more reasons, but if you don't get it already then I will just be wasting my time trying to explain ?

FINALLY....... the point of all this?

I would very much appreciate some feedback please.

*Feedback of a positive, constructive nature please.* There's already enough negativity going around to last a lifetime wouldn't you agree?

My plan is to ditch the complicated wiring setup of the Kitchenaid and wire the group/boiler to a simple high amp on/off switch going through the 100c thermostat and 140c main resettable thermostat. The Ulka pump would also be a simple on off lower current 240v switch. This will be duplicated for the other group.

Thr Kitchenaids have working water temperature meters for each boiler so these will go on the front panel. The existing on/off brew switches on the front of the e90 will operate the Ulka pumps for brewing. The main switch on the right side of the front panel has a Bakelite switching unit as big as a Coca Cola can behind it. The existing 5kw main switch has 3 settings, judging by the icons the first energises half of the 5kw boiler. The second energises the full element. I could be wrong, but it's not a big deal. I will see about wiring the first Kitchenaid group/boiler into the first setting on the switch and the second group onto the 2nd setting on the switch. Then from the switch to each group/boiler via the 2 thermostats.

**It goes without saying that my qualified electrician friend will check everything before first use.**

Any _constructive comments_ on any aspect of the project will be appreciated.

BTW, the plan is to make a new front panel to house the gauges as the Kitchenaid ones are smaller. If/when I get the Kitchenaid steam boiler(s) in, I will have 4 gauges on the front panel and I don't want to ruin the e90. Any mods will be completely reversible so that I can easily set it up as it originally was.

Well anything that takes this long to explain must be either illegal or ............ inspirational? ?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Awesome project! Keep us posted 

I too have a lock down project although nothing of your scale... (will make a seperate thread for this one)


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

I look forward to reading about yours Martin.

All the best with it ?


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

So before starting the strip down of the Kitchenaid in earnest, I noticed a difference in the Kitchenaid boiler and the Classic boiler.

It's the location or rather the absence of a 2nd thermostat on the Kitchenaid boiler.







The Kitchenaid boiler only has 1 thermostat on the side of the boiler.

Where as the Classic boiler pictured below has an additional thermostat on the top of the boiler as pictured below.









So I have a question if anyone is willing to help me out with a bit of information please:

1) Is the additional thermostat on the top of the Classic a steam thermostat or the brew thermostat please?


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

My apologies. I just Googled a parts diagram for the Classic and I can see that the missing thermostat from the top of the Kitchenaid boiler is the steam thermostat.


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## Norvin (Sep 10, 2014)

Interesting project. here are some thoughts-

The complicated electronics are there to ensure that the steam boiler and brew boiler don't heat at the same time, which will draw about 2,800 watts when you first turn it on. You can probably do away with these electronics on a 240v system but not if you plan to run two steam boilers and two brew boilers at the same time.

You will need some system of keeping the steam boiler topped up, I think the kitchenaid system uses switch connections and microswitches on the steam button/knobs to operate the pump and steam boiler solenoid, there is no level sensor in the steam boiler.

The kitchenaid gauges are very inaccurate.

Good luck with the project.


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## johnealey (May 19, 2014)

I get the whole "because I can" argument especially having time on hands at the moment and why not, its your time after all.

However...could you not just order a 1 phase heating element for the E90 and make use of all the advantages the current set up has i.e. temp stability / steam power etc? You can even run most elements, where they are made up of multi elements, on just the 1 out of 2 thus reducing your power usage (balanced against longer heat up times

Just a thought and if not essentially your easiest option is just to take shell off of Artisan and put whole innards into Gaggia shell so just changing shells in effect.

Best of luck with the frankengaggia 

John


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

Norvin said:


> Interesting project. here are some thoughts-
> 
> The complicated electronics are there to ensure that the steam boiler and brew boiler don't heat at the same time, which will draw about 2,800 watts when you first turn it on. You can probably do away with these electronics on a 240v system but not if you plan to run two steam boilers and two brew boilers at the same time.
> 
> ...


 Thank you Norvin. Your comments are very helpful and confirm where I am currently heading with my plans. I am now considering emulating the Gaggia Classic set up by adding a steam thermostat to the top of the Kitchenaid boiler wired to a separate switch. That way I only have to mount 2 boilers instead of 4. Also, the 2 Kitchenaid machines that I have both had issues with weak steaming, so I am thinking of just using the one bigger brew boiler. I'm still on the fence a bit. I'd rather spend time on deciding now, than on having to change the actual build.

Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it ?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

What we're you trying to sell, out of interest? ?


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

johnealey said:


> I get the whole "because I can" argument especially having time on hands at the moment and why not, its your time after all.
> 
> However...could you not just order a 1 phase heating element for the E90 and make use of all the advantages the current set up has i.e. temp stability / steam power etc? You can even run most elements, where they are made up of multi elements, on just the 1 out of 2 thus reducing your power usage (balanced against longer heat up times
> 
> ...


 Thank you John I appreciate your feedback.

Actually that was the first idea I considered. I dismissed it because I reckoned that a 16 litre boiler would still need a large kw/h element to heat it up effectively.

I also considered filling half of the boiler with some large volume heat proof material to effectively reduce it's internal volume so that I could get away with using a smaller heating element. I couldn't think of any suitable material and I would still have to spend on a new element.

I settled on using the Kitchenaid boilers because they are free, and I heard that they are actually Gaggia made boilers so I'm keeping the modifications 'in the family' so to speak.

Thank you for taking the time to share your ideas. I really appreciate it ?


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

MartinB said:


> What we're you trying to sell, out of interest? ?


 Sorry Martin, I better not say until I officially qualify to sell. I already have 2 penalty points that will never expire. ? I don't want to be seen to be trying to get around the rules. I'm enjoying the forum. It's great getting feedback from knowledgeable posters ?


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## MartinB (May 8, 2011)

Ah. surely you can view and post in the classifieds now?!


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

Hi. Still not sure if I can post in the classified section yet, but I will do after a few more posts.


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

ggbinks said:


> Thank you John I appreciate your feedback.
> 
> Actually that was the first idea I considered. I dismissed it because I reckoned that a 16 litre boiler would still need a large kw/h element to heat it up effectively.
> 
> ...


 Ok so time to update.

I opened up the Kitchenaid machines and got 2 surprises.

The first machine has obviously had a leaking boiler at some point because the inside of the machine had some oxidising and rust:









The second surprise was how clean the second one was:

















The 2nd one is like brand new inside with no oxidising or rust whatsoever.

So cutting a long story short, I replaced the defective steam gauge and hot water switch using parts from the oxidising machine and I now have a fully functioning Kitchenaid machine. It was just too good to use for parts.

So where does it leave me?

Both boilers on the oxidising Kitchenaid are working fine. The leak seems to have cured itself over time on the steamer boiler.

So I could still use the brewing boiler as it has an integral group head, but the steamer boiler obviously doesn't. So..........

I am now going back to revisit Johns suggestion, that I considered earlier, about converting the Gaggia to single phase power, and maybe reducing the internal volume of boiler somehow.

Any suggestions on what material could be inserted into the boiler that would reduce the internal volume, allowing me to get away with a lower kw/hr heating element and withstand approximately 160 degrees Celsius?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated ?


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## allikat (Jan 27, 2020)

If this were my project, I'd be asking how the boiler knows when to refill itself. If it's a float on an arm, like in most toilets, then simply modifying the arm to allow a bit less water in there would put less water in there, which would need less power to heat.


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## ggbinks (Mar 25, 2020)

allikat said:


> If this were my project, I'd be asking how the boiler knows when to refill itself. If it's a float on an arm, like in most toilets, then simply modifying the arm to allow a bit less water in there would put less water in there, which would need less power to heat.


 Thank you Allikat. The boiler has a sight glass on the front left of the machine, when it gets low, there's a knob on the front right of the machine the let's more water into the boiler using water mains pressure. I'm still trying to figure it out. I'm now scouring auction sites for another broken Kitchenaid as I think that's going to be 'easy' er ?

Confused dot com ?


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